LIVE from the Camino Some Random Observations from My Camino Francés

[WalkinRon]

First, I want to thank you all for posting your helpful tips for those of us planning our first Camino! I've been dreaming of this ever since former president Bartlet had to interrupt his retirement to travel to St. Jean Pied de Port. I'll post here while I'm on the Camino if anything comes up that I think would help other newbies...

GETTING FROM PARIS CDG TO SJPP
My non-stop flight from California arrived Paris Charles de Gaulle on a Monday morning. The line at passport control was long! I'm talking Walt Disney World long! Took me about 90 minutes. My checked bag was already going round 'n round by the time I got to the carousel.

I consulted Rome2rio 1 month before to plan my TGV tickets. However, I was never able to figure out how to reserve the seat that I wanted. So after figuring out which trains I wanted, I used sncf-connect to actually purchase the tickets. As far as I could figure, I was always getting an error message when I tried to use it outside business hours in France but it worked great during business hours French time. I am 65 years old. I got something called "Carte Advantage Sénior 60 ans et+" for 25 euros. It paid for itself when I bought my first two tickets. I had my seats reserved and tickets printed out 4 weeks before departure.

There's a train station right in the airport called "Aéroport Charles de Gaulle 2 TGV". I followed the signs to "Grandes Lignes". My train took less than 4 hours to get to Bordeaux. I liked the Best Western Plus right across the street from the train station for a good night's sleep and an excellent start to recovering from jet lag. The next morning my train took less than 2 hours to get to Bayonne. My ticket from Bayonne to SJPP cost less than 6 euros with my senior discount card. The track/platform number never appeared on the TV "departures" screen. Eventually I noticed that an employee was directing folk--the train was already there 20 minutes before departure time. By the time I boarded, the one car train was packed. I joined over a dozen passengers standing in the aisles and at the doors. Not having a seat for the less than 1 hour--beautiful scenery--train ride was no problem because OMG! I'M HERE!!

 

[C clearly]

former president Bartlet

I had no idea at all, who/what you were talking about. So, of course, I googled and found this explanation - for anyone else who is equally uninformed of such matters.

Are you currently on the Camino, or en route to it? If so, I'm looking forward to more posts on your progress. Buen Camino!

 

[irishrock]

congrats...you're already having a Camino experience which I'd loosely define as "go with the flow". I heard something early that I've always acribed to: "hike your own hike" which I mean that one should hike/stop when they want to.

I was fortunate and unfortunate on my Camino. I didn't have a long time frame. So, I'd normally hike 1 1/2 to 2 stages per day...but every once in awhile I'd hike a one day or 1 1/4 day. E.G. I hiked Estella to Viana (40kms) and then Viana to Najera (40kms)...and I was whipped. the next day I hiked from Najera to Granon and got in around 11:15 and enjoyed beers (while resting my legs/feet) and rallied HARD out of that. The rest of the trip I was good to go. My favorite day memory is still the first day from SJPP to Roncevalles...my 2nd favorite day was Astorga to el Acebo...Foncebadon is a magical place.

Forgive the rant...you've already established yourself as a peregrino...one that is flexible and one capable of handling anything. Please keep that attitude going for the next month or so and then report back.

wow, get ready to:
meet great people from all around the world
taste great wine/sangria/beer
eat amazing foods
experience the kindness of others (I experienced kindness EVERY single day I walked the Camino)
pray/contemplate your blessings (I prayed the rosary 4x per day)
suffer...but in a good way


Buen camino mi amigo

 

[WalkinRon]

@C clearly Yes, I'm now taking a couple of rest days at Pamplona, Thanks!

@irishrock Thanks! Wow! Your list after "get ready to" is spot on--as if you're right here watching. One of my new French vocabulary words was learned when a lady walked up to the food truck on the mountain in the pouring rain and told the man that he is "une bénédiction" a blessing.

 

[WalkinRon]

Again, I have to thank everyone from the bottom of my heart! The community here is an invaluable resource for preparing for one's first Camino!!

ADVERSE WEATHER CONDITIONS ON THE ROUTE NAPOLEON SEPTEMBER 2022
Upon arrival at SJPP I made my way to the Pilgrims' Office. At this point I'd like to give a shout out to Annie Santiago because, thanks to her, I was well equipped for the rainy weather! I had my Altus Atmospheric poncho and the exact shoes recommended by her (as well as the insole inserts). Since the shoes were not waterproof, I also had Rain Shoe Covers. In addition, I had my Pacerpoles. All of the above, except the Rain Shoe Covers, I used over the past few months in training walks.

The volunteer at the office gave me a sheet showing 16 stages on one side and 17 stages on the back. He drew my attention to the first stage. He circled "200" and "1400" telling me we are here at 200 meters and the top is at 1400 meters. He then drew a line just above Orrison and made hash marks above the line crossing out everything over 1000 meters, pointed, and said "No!". He then highlighted the route to Roncesvalles via Valcarlos and said: "Go this way!" I never hiked or walked long distances until I began to prepare for the Camino. So I am not qualified to give any advice on this. I just wanted to include this information because I had assumed that the Napoleon route is advised against only due to winter weather. (Including early winter weather before the actual start of winter.) Now I know that I was making a false assumption! The temperatures were mild and not freezing but they were advising based on rain, wind, and visibility. Just wanted to describe my experience at the Pilgrim's Office to give everyone a heads up.

 

[Robo]

Again, I have to thank everyone from the bottom of my heart! The community here is an invaluable resource for preparing for one's first Camino!!

ADVERSE WEATHER CONDITIONS ON THE ROUTE NAPOLEON SEPTEMBER 2022
Upon arrival at SJPP I made my way to the Pilgrims' Office. At this point I'd like to give a shout out to Annie Santiago because, thanks to her, I was well equipped for the rainy weather! I had my Altus Atmospheric poncho and the exact shoes recommended by her (as well as the insole inserts). Since the shoes were not waterproof, I also had Rain Shoe Covers. In addition, I had my Pacerpoles. All of the above, except the Rain Shoe Covers, I used over the past few months in training walks.

The volunteer at the office gave me a sheet showing 16 stages on one side and 17 stages on the back. He drew my attention to the first stage. He circled "200" and "1400" telling me we are here at 200 meters and the top is at 1400 meters. He then drew a line just above Orrison and made hash marks above the line crossing out everything over 1000 meters, pointed, and said "No!". He then highlighted the route to Roncesvalles via Valcarlos and said: "Go this way!" I never hiked or walked long distances until I began to prepare for the Camino. So I am not qualified to give any advice on this. I just wanted to include this information because I had assumed that the Napoleon route is advised against only due to winter weather. (Including early winter weather before the actual start of winter.) Now I know that I was making a false assumption! The temperatures were mild and not freezing but they were advising based on rain, wind, and visibility. Just wanted to describe my experience at the Pilgrim's Office to give everyone a heads up.

Sounds like good advice!
Our last time 'over the top' was below freezing, rain, wind and about 100 metres visibility at best. (Spring)
That hit us up towards Croix Thiebault.
It was 'doable'. But let's just say we didn't stop till we hit the downhill and got some shelter from the prevailing weather.
Without the right gear, or an injury stopping us somewhere without shelter, it could have easily been a hypothermia risk.

Sounds like you're having fun!

 

[Kathor1]

One of my new French vocabulary words was learned when a lady walked up to the food truck on the mountain in the pouring rain and told the man that he is "une bénédiction" a blessing.

Just curious: Did you encounter this food truck on the Valcarlos route?

 

[WalkinRon]

Sounds like good advice!
Our last time 'over the top' was below freezing, rain, wind and about 100 metres visibility at best. (Spring)
That hit us up towards Croix Thiebault.
It was 'doable'. But let's just say we didn't stop till we hit the downhill and got some shelter from the prevailing weather.
Without the right gear, or an injury stopping us somewhere without shelter, it could have easily been a hypothermia risk.

Sounds like you're having fun!

@Robo Oh my! I'm having the time of my life!

 

[WalkinRon]

Just curious: Did you encounter this food truck on the Valcarlos route?

@Kathar1na You're quite right! I posted only what I was told at the pilgrims' office. I tried to avoid any advice or: "I did this..." Because I'd booked Borda last April, I walked there as planned. Borda was fully booked that night and we all had an extensive discussion at dinner on this topic. I agree with what @Robo said in that it was 'doable' and I had the right equipment. But I don't want anyone to think I'm advocating one way or the other. Suffice it to say my first stop in Roncesvalles was the church--to give thanks.

 

[WalkinRon]

WARNING: BEWARE THE DESCENT INTO ZUBIRI !
I am walking quite slowly and taking my time. I walked from Roncesvalles to Linzoain in occasional light rain showers. After a good night's sleep in Linzoain, I was happy to set out under clear skies and in warm weather. Still, I found the descent into Zubiri quite difficult. My Pacerpoles saved me from falling several times. I became quite experienced in recognizing slippery spots in stone, rock, grass, and mud. I found my descent into Roncesvalles in light rain much, much easier than my descent into Zubiri. I doubt I could have done it in the rain. I avoided actually falling but I still somehow injured my right leg and, at first, thought I had injured my ankle. I was limping into Zubiri. I had a cut, bruise, and area of swelling. My thanks to @Pafayac who mentioned comfrey cream in a post before I left home. Never heard of it but got some from Amazon and threw it in my bag. Really helped speed my recovery! Here's a photo of what you can expect:

 

[Peregrinopaul]

"If I had a hammer ..."

 

[WalkinRon]

THE BEAUTIFUL RIVER ROUTE INTO BURGOS
Some months ago I got the book: "The Camino Francés A Wise Pilgrim Guide to the Camino de Santiago". I also put the Wise Pilgrim app on my phone. There I found a very useful tip entitled: "Finding the river route can be tricky". I spent a night in Castañares then followed the directions to the river route. I walked into Burgos on a beautiful Saturday morning. Families, kids, seniors, cyclists, and pilgrims were all in the park enjoying the nice weather. This route is one long park consisting of a walkway, a bike path, and the river. By the time I got to the end of the park and crossed a bridge over the river, I was near the city center and very close to my hotel.