Some random notes from the Camino del Norte

[markgrubb]

This is my second Camino and I did very little research before this one. I'm sure what I have to say is not particularly earth shattering or new but I thought I'd share my thoughts.

1. The first six days to Bilbao are quite tough. Constant ups and downs. I didn't anticipate the amount of mud, really hard going in places and the descent from the high point on the last stage was scary it was so wet and slippery. I gather it was very wet around the start of September. On the first day from Irun there were rivulets running down the paths.
   
   
2. I hadn't anticipated so many people. The hostels at Deba, Markina and Castro Urdiales all filled up to capacity and were turning people away. I spoke to the hospitalero at Deba and he said normally they are full through July and August but this year it has continued through September
   
   
3. It is very different from the Frances, more like a long distance hike and little spiritual content. People are friendly but not as on the Frances
   
   
4. Weather has been much as expected, 3 rainy days, 3 sunny and 2 overcast. It needs more effort to get clothes clean and dry and some hostels have next to no facilities for this.
   
   
5. As expected there is far less infrastructure but it has surprised me that so many bars/cafes stay shut in the morning and you can pass through village after village with nothing. Those that are open do a brisk trade
   
   
6. I speak decent Spanish and it is a big help
   
   
7. Prices can be high. In San Sebastian it was 28 euros to stay in the Room In the City hostel
8. Above all it has been great fun and some of the coast and countryside is spectacular

 

[kdespot]

Thank you, Markgrubb! While your comments may not be earth shattering to some of the more experienced pilgrims, they gave me some key info right at the time that I was looking for it. I've only done one Camino, from SJPdP to Santiago, and am trying to decide which route my second one will take. Thanks for answering some key questions!

 

[poogeyejr]

I had two very dry northern camino's. May 2011 and Sept/Oct 2013.
I am sorry you had to deal with so much mud.

I don't use hiking poles, but I think they would be invaluable in a wet season.

Kathy

 

[markgrubb]

A few thoughts and comments from week 2. I've been walking now for 14 days and had one rest day in Bilbao and am in San Esteban de Leces just beyond Ribadesella.

1. I was surprised by just how much of the Camino from Bilbao to Asturias was on asphalt. About 95% I would estimate. Good to be off road a fair bit now I'm in Asturias
   
   
2. I came across one outstanding albergue in La Franca called Renacer. It is run by a lady called Pilar and the albergue is really her home. I was given a twin room to myself. She gave me tea and cleaned my days clothing. Very welcoming and spotlessly clean. She is a peregrina and has done caminos for 10 years so she is totally tuned in to your needs. 14 euros for the night and well worth it. Highly recommended.
   
   
3. Also very good was Llana playa de Poo hostel. It's not specifically for peregrinos. Nice building and dorms no more than 6 in a room. Lots of spaces to relax, a lovely terrace and garden. A very welcoming family and an outstanding communal meal made with their own produce for 9 euros.
   
   
4. Very few people from English speaking countries that I have met and none so far from my own-UK. More than half are Germans.
   
   
5. Some hostels are still full, e.g. Gorillas Santillana. Some are dead quiet. I'm in the 40+ bed St Esteban hostel and at 7pm there are just 3 of us.
   
   
6. The Camino doesn't go hard by the coast much. Determined efforts to do so are rewarding though tend to add kilometres
   
   
7. I've used the app Buen Camino and it is generally excellent. Whilst signposting is good the app is particularly useful for the variants and in towns where the arrows can be patchy

 

[Northern Laurie]

I can echo much of what was said:

1) choose footwear based on mostly hard compact surfaces and few loose rubble surfaces.

2) if you start in Irun, all the ups and downs after Bilbao will be super easy. If you start in Bilbao, there will be lots of ascents and descents. You'll get used to them.

3). Small hostels with less than 10beds are almost all houses and they were consistently awesome. Especially in AsturiAs.

4). Think twice about skipping Gijon to Aviles-it will help you appreciate natural beauty that much more. And it's only about 12km of industry/city.

5). many of the Norte walkers were people looking for a quiet spiritual experience away from too many people - lots of introverts who don't talk as much. And another larger contingent doing it to regain balance by exposing themselves to natural beauty, which sometimes came across as tourism. This makes the Camino feel potentially less spiritual, especially if you like a very social experience.

6) it is fantastic.