So far, so good - Camino Ingles with 16 yo son

[Purky]

Since I always plan with Murphy's Law on my mind, I was pleasantly surprised yesterday. Everything went smooth, and we ended up from Holland arriving in Ferrol more than an hour before my most optimistic schedule (no bus-strike on a monday yet...)

A good enough reason to splurge on hotel El Suizo and have a nice meal at the very hip and stylish Bla Bla Café. My son, being the strong and mostly silent type, did not object.

Today we walked from Ferrol to Pontedeume. We arrived at Neda around noon and had too much steam left to stick around. Drawback was that the albergue in Pontedeume was full at arrival (15:30).

But again Johnny's guide came through: within 10 minutes we were in a very decent room at Bar Luis. A bit of a splurge as well, budget-wise, but my son still doesn't mind. Johnny's Ingles guide also saved us from two false yellow arrow situations today, so an invaluable asset.

Sonny boy is walking like a trooper. I was sort of expecting he would (total sport-nut), but it is still nice to see he does so well. And he likes being here, which is even better.

I hope we can end up in albergues at Betanzos and onwards, or it will be bread and water for the rest of the week. We'll see, it will probably work out.

 

[SabsP]

Since I always plan with Murphy's Law on my mind, I was pleasantly surprised yesterday. Everything went smooth, and we ended up from Holland arriving in Ferrol more than an hour before my most optimistic schedule (no bus-strike on a monday yet...)
A good enough reason to splurge on hotel El Suizo and have a nice meal at the very hip and stylish Bla Bla Café. My son, being the strong and mostly silent type, did not object.
Today we walked from Ferrol to Pontedeume. We arrived at Neda around noon and had too much steam left to stick around. Drawback was that the albergue in Pontedeume was full at arrival (15:30).
But again Johnny's guide came through: within 10 minutes we were in a very decent room at Bar Luis. A bit of a splurge as well, budget-wise, but my son still doesn't mind.
Johnny's Ingles guide also saved us from two false yellow arrow situations today, so an invaluable asset.
Sonny boy is walking like a trooper. I was sort of expecting he would (total sport-nut), but it is still nice to see he does so well. And he likes being here, which is even better.
I hope we can end up in albergues at Betanzos and onwards, or it will be bread and water for the rest of the week. We'll see, it will probably work out.

Yeah Purky! You are on your way. Say hi to your son.
Bar Luis is fab and the food is very good.
Enjoy!!

 

[SYates]

Buen Camino and say hello when you are in Santiago ;-) SY

 

[Mike Savage]

What a wonderful start. Say hi to Galicia for me!

Safe travels and Buen Camino!

 

[OTH86]

Please post more Live From the Inglés - I may follow in Sept...
Buen Camino !

 

[Purky]

Pontedeume to Betanzos today. I'm afraid I created a monster. My son is shredding the Ingles, especially the nasty bits uphill. I'm keeping up, but it takes effort.

We were late getting out of Pontedeume because of a little mistake I made yesterday (just getting my bearings, don't worry). I didn't pay up front at Bar Luis, for which we paid this morning by waiting for the boss to arrive. 8:30 when we left.

The route was nicer than yesterday. A lot less urban sprawl, a lot more forrest and nice vistas. And, thanks largely to the speed of my son, we were at the Betanzos albergue at 13:30, where we secured the last two bunks.

Showered, fresh clothes and out for a bite to eat. My son is 16, so eats like a dock worker. Gotta keep him fed to keep him moving. After that I dropped him off at the albergue at his own request, so he could chill and do his own thing while I went out to discover Betanzos.

Got a map and wandered around. I like that, just breathing in a city, absorbing it. During which I caught a glimpse of myself in a shop window. I looked like a complete dork, with my shorts and crocs and slighty reddish face, and that silly grin.

Not at all the fashion conscious type I can be at home. But it didn't bother me one bit. I'm walking a camino again. I'm back! Big as life and twice as ugly.

 

[SabsP]

@Purky : you both seem to have a blast!
Your son is quite a trooper...
Betanzos is a wonderful city isn't it? The Ingles seems to be really busy lately...with you two having the last beds so early in the day. So tomorrow Presedo or Bruma?

 

[Purky]

@Purky : So tomorrow Presedo or Bruma?

We're a day ahead of schedule, so I'm thinking Presedo. That will also give us an extra edge for the albergue in Bruma the day after tomorrow...

 

[KinkyOne]

We're a day ahead of schedule, so I'm thinking Presedo. That will also give us an extra edge for the albergue in Bruma the day after tomorrow...

Presedo albergue is small but nice. Also a small kitchen. Large bathrooms and lawn at the back. You can't buy anything there but you can eat in a Meson some 100+mts down the main street. Enjoy!

 

[Purky]

Presedo albergue it is for today. An easy and very pleasant walk, about 12 km. Before Betanzos my son had never stayed in an albergue before, so that came as a bit of a shock. Apparently he didn't sleep a wink.

His comments this morning covered the complete range of topics that usually come up in albergue threads on this forum. Bag-rustlers, snorers, people shining lights all over the place including your face and the loud 5 o'clock risers.

He was merciless in his judgement, as a teen can be, and it was highly entertaining. That, and he made a lot of good points. I'm very proud of him. I hope he'll be able to sleep tonight and tomorrow.

So, a very short stage today. Just finished washing a lot of clothes (I'm sparing him a bit, so did his as well) and planning lunch. Not difficult, because I like the Meson-Museo where we had coffee earlier.

Tomorrow onwards to Bruma, curious about the stretch between Bar Julia and Vizoño I hear so much about. I very much doubt I can beat my son to the top. He's a machine...

 

[KinkyOne]

Presedo albergue it is for today. An easy and very pleasant walk, about 12 km. Before Betanzos my son had never stayed in an albergue before, so that came as a bit of a shock. Apparently he didn't sleep a wink.

His comments this morning covered the complete range of topics that usually come up in albergue threads on this forum. Bag-rustlers, snorers, people shining lights all over the place including your face and the loud 5 o'clock risers.

He was merciless in his judgement, as a teen can be, and it was highly entertaining. That, and he made a lot of good points. I'm very proud of him. I hope he'll be able to sleep tonight and tomorrow.

So, a very short stage today. Just finished washing a lot of clothes (I'm sparing him a bit, so did his as well) and planning lunch. Not difficult, because I like the Meson-Museo where we had coffee earlier.

Tomorrow onwards to Bruma, curious about the stretch between Bar Julia and Vizoño I hear so much about. I very much doubt I can beat my son to the top. He's a machine...

It's obvious that you have a great time and also your son is entertaining you

I walked the same stretch from Presedo to Bruma last year and didn't find the uphill after Bar Julia really difficult. The incline is quite steep on two parts but nothing really scary. And most of it is in the shade. You also don't need to carry a lot of water because after the uphill and 3 km before Bruma there is this water pump with fuente in form of big white rock.


Buen Camino!

 

[Purky]

You also don't need to carry a lot of water because after the uphill and 3 km before Bruma there is this water pump with fuente in form of big white rock.

I put the larger water bottle in my son's pack...

 

[Deleted member 3000]

His comments this morning covered the complete range of topics that usually come up in albergue threads

I hope that ear plugs came up. They are a good lesson on how one can control his own behavior when it is not possible to control the behavior of others!

 

[Purky]

I hope that ear plugs came up. They are a good lesson on how one can control his own behavior when it is not possible to control the behavior of others!

Earplugs not only came up: they went in! But when you're on the top bunk and someone who snores is on the bottom, sound is not the only challenge. Vibrations can be disturbing too.
But he takes it all in his stride. A bit of early morning complaining is the least of my worries.

 

[Purky]

The weather is changing for the better, not that it was bad before. But instead of a cloudy and somewhat clammy start of the day, the sun showed itself more often. Afternoons have been bright since the start.

An easy few hours from Presedo to Bruma today. We were halfway up the hill to Vizoño before it hit me we were on the hard bit. I hadn't noticed we passed Bar Julia because it was closed; in hindsight I just had a "Bummer, no coffee"-moment. I wasn't very observant today.

On the way we passed two Italian pilgrims, the same ones we shared a dinner table with yesterday at Meson-Museo. One of them was a first-timer, the other older one already had 7 (different) Camino's under his belt.

It was great fun eating with them. By speaking French we could communicate enough to make sense, and the twinkling eyes of the older gentlemen spoke volumes. With those humorous eyes he even avoided a scolding by our waitress, because he was feeding the housecat behind her back.

In As Travesas I screwed up navigating. Too wrapped up in conversation, I guess, but we ended up in Bar Casa Avelina. Took directions from the lady behind the bar, had to do a bit of road walking and got back on track. It might have been a shortcut too, because soon after we arrived in Bruma.

Incidently: an Australian couple we met in Betanzos and ran into again today, told us that they saw concrete way markers in this area being removed and replaced with wooden markers with a yellow arrow painted on. Replacement or maintenance, they couldn't tell me, unfortunately.

 

[Purky]

As it turns out, signage on today's stage is presently being changed (see this thread). For a minute I was tempted to taxi back to Bar Julia and check it out better. But it is late, and beer-o-clock, so Miguel_gp will have to do that next tuesday...

 

[Purky]

The most straightforward day today, Bruma to Sigüeiro. The signage matched the guide perfectly (I payed very close attention this time) and coffee and lunch were a no-brainer. Coffee at Bar Novo and a bocadillo to go at Café-bar O Cruceiro. Sellos at both, perfect logistics.

I really had a blast so far: the weather was perfect, we met some great people and didn’t have a care in the world. The directional challenges we had yesterday only added to the fun. My son however, is less impressed.

He likes the walking alright, and is adapting quickly to albergue life, but is not as enthusiastic as I am. A good thing I wasn't aiming for that. I just wanted him to have a good whiff of this thing called Camino, and I think that is a mission very well accomplished.

Also worth mentioning, I think, is that in a situation like this, it is important to leave the role of dad/mom at the airport. Sure, you carry the money and do most of the planning and decision-making, but you walk as equals. It adds to the experience if you plunge in together. But enough of this, we're not even done yet.

In Sigüeiro Albergue de Delia is temporarely closed due to personal issues. Delia herself was gracious enough to direct us to Albergue Camiño Real. You can't miss it if you walk up Rúa Camiño Real. A private albergue, and we're both happy.

Tomorrow the last leg to Santiago. A meet-up with SYates is already arranged, so I can probably also look forward to some good restaurant tips in SdC. It will be strange to walk onto Praza do Obradoiro with my boy, a year after my solo camino. Time flies.

 

[Mike Savage]

Yes time does fly and it will be over much too soon. Fortunately this is a time you will both remember and treasure the rest of your lives.

Don't you just love that feeling of not having a care in the world!

Buen Camino!

 

[natefaith]

Congrats, @Purky ! I just made it into town today. Sounds like you met an Australian couple - were they Jol and Maggie? I walked with them a few times and knew they were a day behind me after I left Betanzos and they stayed on an extra day.

Have a wonderful last day tomorrow!
Faith

 

[Purky]

Sounds like you met an Australian couple - were they Jol and Maggie?

That's them. Funny that we were just a day behind you...

 

[miguel_gp]

Wonderful account so far @Purky. It sounds like you are having a great time with @SonOfPurky.
I'm hoping to do the same with my two boys next year. Route not decided but the Ingles does keep dragging me back
Enjoy your last day, both.

 

[Purky]

Just arrived in Santiago! At this very moment we are standing in a long line at the Pilgrim Office. Already inside though, so should be done in about an hour. All part of the voyage.

EDIT: Dang, they work fast! From just outside in the courtyard by the door "before the corner" to the head of the queue in under 40 minutes...

 

[Mike Savage]

Congratulations to both of you. Well done!

 

[miguel_gp]

en hora beuna

 

[OTH86]

Congratulations @Purky !! Your positivity has convinced me I'll be on the Ingles the end of Oct to early Nov - prepared for rain!
Safe travels home!
Terry

 

[Purky]

Congratulations @Purky !! Your positivity has convinced me I'll be on the Ingles the end of Oct to early Nov - prepared for rain!
Safe travels home!
Terry

I hope you'll have as good a journey as we had!

 

[Purky]

Epilogue

Back home. I just wanted to add one more thing to this account of hiking the Ingles with my son. It took a while to register, but last week I met a side of my son that I hadn't really seen before.

In everyday life things have a tendency to almost move by themself. Autopilot. Relationships can have this flow as well. Assumptions, routine, a bit of inattention, all these things can hide a lot.

Untill you walk with each other, and (in my case) find out that your 16 year old son is way more adult, autonomous and responsible than you thought he was. What a pleasant surprise!

Also unexpected, because until I figured this out, I was thinking I was doing him a favor. I thought I was educating him. Silly me... So there you have it: the Camino struck again.

 

[donalomahony]

Brilliant !

 

[NualaOC]

Congratulations @Purky and son on your Camino, and on continuing this journey of discovery back home. Thank you so much for your wonderfully insightful and uplifting posts. This thread is such a joy!

 

[nycwalking]

Congrats.

 

[SabsP]

Big cheer to your son and to yourself! And who knows , maybe it will be him walking the Camino from Breda to Santiago in the future...

 

[natefaith]

Congrats @Purky and son! Glad you made it safely home! May your relationship only keep growing from here.
Faith

 

[OTH86]

@Purky, do you have a blog or such? I'd enjoy reading more of your writings and sensibilities! Thanks so much for sharing - especially the most recent lesson...

 

[Purky]

@Purky, do you have a blog or such?

Thank you for the compliment, but no blog. And if I would have one, it would probably be in Dutch, as I am a Low Country dweller...

 

[Taswegian Traveller]

Epilogue

Back home. I just wanted to add one more thing to this account of hiking the Ingles with my son. It took a while to register, but last week I met a side of my son that I hadn't really seen before.

In everyday life things have a tendency to almost move by themself. Autopilot. Relationships can have this flow as well. Assumptions, routine, a bit of inattention, all these things can hide a lot.

Untill you walk with each other, and (in my case) find out that your 16 year old son is way more adult, autonomous and responsible than you thought he was. What a pleasant surprise!

Also unexpected, because until I figured this out, I was thinking I was doing him a favor. I thought I was educating him. Silly me... So there you have it: the Camino struck again.

I loved reading this account of the Camino Inglés walking with your son, thank you so much for sharing it with us!

I am (excitedly) planning to undertake a Camino in Aug/Sept 2020 with my boy, who will have just turned 19. Think he may be the same age as “ Son of Purky” Still can’t quite believe he’s keen to come and be part of this big adventure with his Mum!

And as you so wisely said, your expectations and assumptions made re the direction of the learnings was completely 180 degs Love it!
Definitely one of life’s biggest lessons.

 

[Purky]

I loved reading this account of the Camino Inglés walking with your son, thank you so much for sharing it with us!

I am (excitedly) planning to undertake a Camino in Aug/Sept 2020 with my boy, who will have just turned 19. Think he may be the same age as “ Son of Purky” Still can’t quite believe he’s keen to come and be part of this big adventure with his Mum!

And as you so wisely said, your expectations and assumptions made re the direction of the learnings was completely 180 degs Love it!
Definitely one of life’s biggest lessons. ❤

As it happens, my son turned nineteen today! He is still the strong and silent type, and quite mysterious too, as far as I'm concerned. It is hard to figure out what makes him tick. That is why I was very surprised by his reaction when I was musing out loud about maybe one day walking in Japan. "If you are going to walk a pilgrim path in Japan, I'm coming with you", he said with his distinctive finality. He never speaks about our days on the Ingles together, but it must have been engaging enough to say something like that. Go figure...

May you have an amazing adventure together with your son in 2020!

 

[Taswegian Traveller]

As it happens, my son turned nineteen today! He is still the strong and silent type, and quite mysterious too, as far as I'm concerned. It is hard to figure out what makes him tick. That is why I was very surprised by his reaction when I was musing out loud about maybe one day walking in Japan. "If you are going to walk a pilgrim path in Japan, I'm coming with you", he said with his distinctive finality. He never speaks about our days on the Ingles together, but it must have been engaging enough to say something like that. Go figure...

May you have an amazing adventure together with your son in 2020!

Thank you Purky, I’m sure it will be a memorable experience whatever it brings along the way. Just booking our tickets today so it’s starting to feel very real! And as far as the Japanese Caminos, we considered doing one of these first since they’re much closer to home and look so beautiful. But because we are heading for Europe in Autumn 2020, the Camino del Norte is beckoning more loudly

Am really not surprised your boy wants to be part of your Japanese Camino journey. It will be such a special time together in those stunning mountains and forests. Buen Camino!

 

[VNwalking]

Purky, I somehow missed this thread when you wrote it. So, sorry to be late - but belated congratulations and well done anyway!

May you have a good walk in Japan, when you get there.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Ditto to what @VNwalking said - I’m so glad this got bumped. I smiled, I laughed, I nodded in understanding, I even got a lump in my throat.
What a beautiful account.
Can’t wait to see you tackle Japan together. He’s big enough to do his own washing now;-)

 

[Purky]

May you have a good walk in Japan, when you get there.

It might be more a question of 'if' instead of 'when'... We'll see what happens.

 

[Kiwi-family]

It might be more a question of 'if' instead of 'when'... We'll see what happens.

Well you can start saving now!! It’s a splurge-every-day walk from what I’ve seen.