Side trips off the Camino Frances

[marbuck]

In 2014 we walked the Camino Frances and took side trips to Eunate and Samos and really enjoyed the detours.
Walking the CF again in 2017 and would like to know of any other interesting side trips that any of you could recommend?

 

[mspath]

Another further detour might be made to the Sobrado dos Monxes monastery. In March 2007 I walked north to there from Arzua; it was quite a day! Stayed at the pilgrim albergue within the Cistercian monastery. This complex is a Baroque masterpiece, but my pilgrim dorm was a actually a renovated stable; no other pilgrims were there and it was freezing! The albergue has recently been upgraded and there is also a comfortable hospederia on site.

Earlier I wandered in awe through the other structures. Attended Vespers with one other 'outsider'. The service was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. Walls were painted white or natural wood. All was lit by thick candles. The monks wearing their white robes responded in unison. It was a privilege to share such a timeless ambiance.

For more info check their Spanish web >> http://www3.planalfa.es/sobrado/sobrado.htm and the Wikipedia info page >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sobrado_Abbey

Buen Camino!

 

[Catahoula19]

We also went to Eunate and Samos. We enjoyed them both. My desire to walk "extra" kilometers got more limited as I walked.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Near Palas de Rei and approx 6kms off the Camino is Vila de donas. Well worth a visit and they would love to have more pilgrims come. Directions and more info here too.

Edit:- They have a sello so make sure to take your credencial

 

[Castilian]

If you don't bother a several days detour, you could walk from Burgos to Covarrubias following the Camino de San Olav (www.caminodesanolav.es) or the Camino del Cid (in which case you could go further South till Santo Domingo de Silos. For info about the Camino del Cid: www.caminodelcid.org ) returning to Burgos following the Ruta de la Lana (look for info about this camino de Santiago route on the forum).

If you like mountains and solitude, the Dragonte variant out of Villafranca del Bierzo may be an option to consider. A recent report of the variant was made at: www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-dragonte-villafranca-del-bierzo-to-o-cebreiro.40766

 

[VNwalking]

If you don't bother a several days detour, you could walk from Burgos to Covarrubias following the Camino de San Olav (www.caminodesanolav.es) or the Camino del Cid (in which case you could go further South till Santo Domingo de Silos. For info about the Camino del Cid: www.caminodelcid.org ) returning to Burgos following the Ruta de la Lana (look for info about this camino de Santiago route on the forum).

Santo Domingo de Silos is definitely worth a visit!
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...thic-jewel-south-of-burgos.36974/#post-359147

There and back from Burgos would be a 4-6 day journey on foot.But you can take the bus from Burgos in the late afternoon and be back the next morning to either continue your walk or to stay in Burgos for a rest day.
I took the bus from Burgos and walked back (in 3 days):
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/lost-and-found-on-the-lana-and-st-olav.39244/
@Peregrino2000 recently walked through SDdS coming up the Ebro and describes the journey:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/posts/419092/

Post # 3 on this thread lists several options:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...domingo-de-silos-to-burgos.38896/#post-385902

 

[Kanga]

There is a fabulous Roman Villa north of Carrion de los Condes - La Olmeda. It is close to Saldaña which is one of the prettiest towns in Spain (imo). We took a taxi from Carrion but it could be walked if you have the time.

 

[C clearly]

There are many tiny side routes you can take, as well. For example Castro de Castromaior is a Roman ruin, about 10 km after Portomarin. It's only a couple hundred metres off the camino, with an information sign pointing to it. However, only on my third time walking the route did I bother to go look at it. The day's destination is usually more compelling! There are many short rutas alternativas in Galicia now, that have no explanation. It is a bit of an adventure to take them as you never know if the option is 500 m long or 5 km long, or will it will rejoin.

 

[peregrina2000]

In 2014 we walked the Camino Frances and took side trips to Eunate and Samos and really enjoyed the detours.
Walking the CF again in 2017 and would like to know of any other interesting side trips that any of you could recommend?

Are you talking about walking or detouring by bus? I had planned two nice little detours to my camino this year, one to Santa Eulalia de Bóveda outside Lugo and the other to Sobrado dos Monxes. The problem with planning detours it that if you find yourself getting tight with a group of people, the detours will mess that part up. So I chose staying with my group, and leaving Sobrado till another year.

Viranani's suggestion about taking the bus to Santo Domingo de Silos with a walk back on the San Olav is a great one, which Rebekah and I just walked a few weeks ago. Can be done in three days, some would probably prefer four. Not only do you get to see the monastery and hear the monks at Silos, you also can see dinosaur footprints, a visigothic church, and a lot of beautiful countryside.

The other five star detour off the Francés that immediately comes to mind, at least if you like old churches, would be the 20 or so km from Mansilla de la Mulas to San Miguel de la Escalada.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[marbuck]

The problem with planning detours it that if you find yourself getting tight with a group of people, the detours will mess that part up

Yes that is a problem unless you can talk your group into coming with you. We will have to make that decision when and if it happens. We hope to walk our detours if possible but do have no objections of using public transport if needed.

 

[Castilian]

The other five star detour off the Francés that immediately comes to mind, at least if you like old churches, would be the 20 or so km from Mansilla de la Mulas to San Miguel de la Escalada.

The monastery of San Pedro de las Dueñas (roughly 5 kms away from Sahagún) could be another interesting detour.

 

[mspath]

Another pleasant excursion would be to walk from Najera via route LR 205 (17 km) to the Unesco World Heritage site of San Millán Yuso and Suso Monasteries, (10th and 6th c), stay overnight in a casa rurale since there is no albergue, visit the two sites the next day and return to the CF at Santo Domingo de la Calzada via route LR 204 (19 km) on the third day.

 

[VNwalking]

The other five star detour off the Francés that immediately comes to mind, at least if you like old churches, would be the 20 or so km from Mansilla de la Mulas to San Miguel de la Escalada.

Beautiful but poignant--full of ghosts, like so many emptied monasteries in Spain.

Another pleasant excursion would be to walk from Najera via route LR 205 (17 km) to the Unesco World Heritage site of San Millán Yuso and Suso Monasteries, (10th and 6th c), stay overnight in a casa rurale since there is no albergue, visit the two sites the next day and return to the CF at Santo Domingo de la Calzada via route LR 204 (19 km) on the third day.

Margaret, thank you. After reading your post, remembering a pair of Irish peregrinos who did this and were so happy to have gone that way--they said it was fantastic. (The added benefit for them was that they came through Ciruena from the southeast and totally missed the creepy half empty subdivision/golf course. They had no idea what the rest of us were talking about! )

 

[SYates]

Another pleasant excursion would be to walk from Najera via route LR 205 (17 km) to the Unesco World Heritage site of San Millán Yuso and Suso Monasteries, (10th and 6th c), stay overnight in a casa rurale since there is no albergue, visit the two sites the next day and return to the CF at Santo Domingo de la Calzada via route LR 204 (19 km) on the third day.

And you could easily combine this with a visit to Cañas, see http://www.monasteriodecañas.es and, for map, http://www.monasteriodecañas.es/contact.html
Buen Camino, SY

 

[domigee]

I'd resisted reading this thread until today. I knew I shouldn't have!!! So many places still to discover, I need more days!
My only 'detour' so far was to Eunate... Awesome.

 

[Castilian]

Another (several days) walking detour to enjoy a mix of nature and art would be to Peñalba de Santiago and the Valle del Silencio... @peregrina2000 made a report, in English, on this other thread: www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/mountain-splendor-from-ponferrada-or-el-acebo.27697

 

[William Marques]

We took a trip to Clavijo, site of the famous, possibly fictional, battle but there was little to see but the castle which looks much restored since we were there.

 

[peregrina2000]

Another (several days) walking detour to enjoy a mix of nature and art would be to Peñalba de Santiago and the Valle del Silencio... @peregrina2000 made a report, in English, on this other thread: www.caminodesantiagome/community/threads/mountain-splendor-from-ponferrada-or-el-acebo.27697

Oh, yes, how could I have forgotten that?! It is a wonderful three day loop. Absolutely the best. I have to figure out how to get back there soon. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Icacos]

Am loving this thread; thanks to all contributors. I don't believe it's been mentioned above but I've always been curious about the 'restored' old town which, if memory serves me well, is off some distance to the right soon after leaving San Juan de Ortega. (Sorry, but since my recent move, I've been unable to find my Camino reference book - Brierley's guide.) I believe Brierley said this town is a popular tourist destination and can be full of tour buses. For that reason we gave it a miss. Has anyone been there, and what is it like?

 

[mspath]

Am loving this thread; thanks to all contributors. I don't believe it's been mentioned above but I've always been curious about the 'restored' old town which, if memory serves me well, is off some distance to the right soon after leaving San Juan de Ortega. (Sorry, but since my recent move, I've been unable to find my Camino reference book - Brierley's guide.) I believe Brierley said this town is a popular tourist destination and can be full of tour buses. For that reason we gave it a miss. Has anyone been there, and what is it like?

Ages and Altapuerta are close to San Juan Ortega but neither village has been restored.
Perhaps you mean
Castrillo de los Polvazares which is further west "to the right of " Astorga going towards Rabanal del Camino.

When I visited Castrillo de los Polvazares in November 2010 it seemed be a "Potemkin" village and quite dead! Sadly the small rural sandstone buildings roofed in tile ALL had the exact same green painted trim ! The effect resembled a stage set; No evolving village EVER looked like that. Much of my professional life I worked for building preservation in Canada and NYC where we always opted to leave buildings 'in their own juice' and not gussy them up.

If you wish to visit Castrillo de los Polvares you can easily walk there from Astorga via Murias de Rechivaldo on the CF and then continue on the local highway LE-142 to CdlP.

This Wikipedia article in English gives a good overview of CdlP.
Do read what others have thought re CdlP on this earlier Forum thread.When and if you do visit be sure to also post your comments.

 

[Icacos]

.......
Perhaps you mean
Castrillo de los Polvazares which is further west "to the right of " Astorga going towards Rabanal del Camino.

When I visited Castrillo de los Polvazares in November 2010 it seemed be a "Potemkin" village and quite dead! Sadly the small rural sandstone buildings roofed in tile ALL had the exact same green painted trim ! The effect resembled a stage set; No evolving village EVER looked like that. Much of my professional life I worked for building preservation in Canada and NYC where we always opted to leave buildings 'in their own juice' and not gussy them up.

If you wish to visit Castrillo de los Polvares you can easily walk there from Astorga via Murias de Rechivaldo on the CF and then continue on the local highway LE-142 to CdlP.

This Wikipedia article in English gives a good overview of CdlP.
Do read what others have thought re CdlP on this earlier Forum thread.When and if you do visit be sure to also post your comments.

Thank you @mspath, your description of that town (and link provided) certainly rings a few bells. As to its location - past Astorga going towards Rabanal del Camino - I guess I have to call my memory into question.

 

[SYates]

Oh, and don't forget the Camino Aragones, another route that 'feeds' into the CF and so much quieter. Buen Camino, SY