Should I spend a night in Poladura?

peregrina2000 · Nov 11, 2015

I have just read Herman's blog about his recent Salvador and enjoyed it a lot. I have walked the same "four day plan" twice on the Salvador -- Leon to Pola de Gordón to Pajares to Pola de Lena to Oviedo. I'm thinking that I might go back on the Salvador/Primitivo next summer before it gets hopelessly overcrowded (though some comments on Herman's blog made me think I'm too late for that).

For those of you who have spent a night in Poladura, tell me why it's a good idea to stay there. I know there is a very nice casa rural, where you can get a good meal, and that it spreads the mountain splendor over two days instead of cramming it into one. But the last time I walked through Poladura it was about 11:00 or 11:30 in the morning, so I'm not quite sure how I would spend the day there. Are there nice little walks to take to soak up mountain beauty? Some other treat that I'm not aware of? Thanks Salvador veterans, Laurie

HermanTheGerman · Nov 12, 2015

peregrina2000 said:
I have just read Herman's blog about his recent Salvador and enjoyed it a lot. I have walked the same "four day plan" twice on the Salvador -- Leon to Pola de Gordón to Pajares to Pola de Lena to Oviedo. I'm thinking that I might go back on the Salvador/Primitivo next summer before it gets hopelessly overcrowded (though some comments on Herman's blog made me think I'm too late for that).

For those of you who have spent a night in Poladura, tell me why it's a good idea to stay there. I know there is a very nice casa rural, where you can get a good meal, and that it spreads the mountain splendor over two days instead of cramming it into one. But the last time I walked through Poladura it was about 11:00 or 11:30 in the morning, so I'm not quite sure how I would spend the day there. Are there nice little walks to take to soak up mountain beauty? Some other treat that I'm not aware of? Thanks Salvador veterans, Laurie

Hi Laurie, the albergue in Poladura de la Tercia was reported to be open, although I don't have any specific information about it. The young pilgrim from Switzerland who we met in the albergue at Pola de Lena said that he stayed there. We stopped for a lunch break outside on the street and made use of the many benches. It appeared to be small but neat.

The only person we saw in this village was a man who appeared to be working in the garden at the casa rural. We thought it might be a great idea to stop for a long sought after café con letche, but alas, it was closed. Whether it was closed for lunch, closed for the season or closed for good I cannot say.

One other thing, the approach is not a mass of barbed wire as described in the guide I downloaded i.e. It's not necessary to first reach the previous town and approach by road.

Buen Camino,

The German

LTfit · Nov 12, 2015

hmmm Laurie are you now contemplating the Salvador/Primitivo combo? You know it has been on my short list for a while...and given the increase in numbers I have also been thinking that it is time to do it!

KinkyOne · Nov 12, 2015

LTfit said:
hmmm Laurie are you now contemplating the Salvador/Primitivo combo? You know it has been on my short list for a while...and given the increase in numbers I have also been thinking that it is time to do it!

Another usual suspect over here thinking about it
Although in combination with Via de Bayona and CF between Burgos and Leon (oh, my Meseta...). Maybe Manchego, Teresiano & Torres could wait for another year. No crowds there for years I dare to say.

I guess Salvador/Primitivo, Portugues Central and VdlP should be walked as soon as possible due to crowds.

Ultreia!

jpflavin1 · Nov 12, 2015

Laurie:

As you know I walked this route the first week in April 2013. I did stay in this Albergue. This albergue has a small Kitchen and bathroom. It also only has about a 10 gallon hot water tank. I set up in one of the bedrooms and turned on both space heaters as it was very cold. when I went to the kitchen and turned on a light the circuit breakers popped. I was fortunate to find the fuse box downstairs to reset the circuit breaker. It was also not very clean. That said, I was happy to have a dry place to stay for the night. If you stay here I would recommend you make a reservation at the Casa rural. I arrived late in the day, walking from Cabanillas in a cold rain. By the way, the albergue in Cabanillas is pristine. That said, there is no food available there but I was invited to a local home for dinner. Very lucky me.

Back to your question, I do not believe there is much to see or do in Poladura de la Tercia. Next time, I would keep on walking or stay at the Casa Rural.

First picture is the Albergue in Cabanillas. The next two from the Albergue in Poladura.

As a note, I believe the season you walk can make this Camino a very different experience.

Ultreya,
Joe

Marc S. · Nov 12, 2015

Stayed in the albergue in Poladura this April. Like Joe's experience in 2013, there was no hot water and there were problems with the electricity, but I was glad to find a bed after a long day's walk anyway. Had a lovely dinner in the casa rural though. Apart from that (and sitting in the garden of the casa rural) I don't think there is anything particular to do in Poladura.

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

LTfit said:
hmmm Laurie are you now contemplating the Salvador/Primitivo combo? You know it has been on my short list for a while...and given the increase in numbers I have also been thinking that it is time to do it!

Hi, LT, Kinky and anyone else thinking about doing this walk.

Current thinking is to walk from the mouth of the Ebro to Burgos. That would be Ebro, CAstellano-ARagones and some of Lana into Burgos. From there I have a choice, which I'm still wrestling with, but could be Salvador/Primitivo. Of course if I walk with you, LT, that will dash any ideas I had about taking a short stage to Poladura, but having the great company would be so much better -- even though I am usually looking at the back of your backpack, at least till you get so far ahead I can't see you at all.

KinkyOne said:
Another usual suspect over here thinking about it
Although in combination with Via de Bayona and CF between Burgos and Leon (oh, my Meseta...). Maybe Manchego, Teresiano & Torres could wait for another year. No crowds there for years I dare to say.

I guess Salvador/Primitivo, Portugues Central and VdlP should be walked as soon as possible due to crowds.

Ultreia!

Kinky, when are you thinking about? I think the Vdlp is never going to see the masses of pilgrims that the Primitivo has, it seems to have remained pretty steady, at least that's my impression. The Portugues Interior is one I would suggest if the central gets too busy -- looks absolutely beautiful. As we now enter camino planning for 2016, all ideas are welcome! Buen camino, Laurie

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

jpflavin1 said:
Laurie:

As you know I walked this route the first week in April 2013. I did stay in this Albergue. This albergue has a small Kitchen and bathroom. It also only has about a 10 gallon hot water tank. I set up in one of the bedrooms and turned on both space heaters as it was very cold. when I went to the kitchen and turned on a light the circuit breakers popped. I was fortunate to find the fuse box downstairs to reset the circuit breaker. It was also not very clean. That said, I was happy to have a dry place to stay for the night. If you stay here I would recommend you make a reservation at the Casa rural. I arrived late in the day, walking from Cabanillas in a cold rain. By the way, the albergue in Cabanillas is pristine. That said, there is no food available there but I was invited to a local home for dinner. Very lucky me.

Back to your question, I do not believe there is much to see or do in Poladura de la Tercia. Next time, I would keep on walking or stay at the Casa Rural.

First picture is the Albergue in Cabanillas. The next two from the Albergue in Poladura.

As a note, I believe the season you walk can make this Camino a very different experience.

Ultreya,
Joe

Thanks, Joe, yes, I remembered about your albergue stay in between struggling with snow drifts. I have thought about the CAbanillas option, as maybe a late afternoon start the way you did, but that would be a very long day 2 to Poladura, wouldn't it? Thanks, buen camino, Laurie

jpflavin1 · Nov 12, 2015

peregrina2000 said:
Thanks, Joe, yes, I remembered about your albergue stay in between struggling with snow drifts. I have thought about the CAbanillas option, as maybe a late afternoon start the way you did, but that would be a very long day 2 to Poladura, wouldn't it? Thanks, buen camino, Laurie

Laurie:

Cabanillas to Poladura is approximately 30 km's. Dependent on the weather that is not a bad walk. You could always stop at Buiza (23 km's from Cabanillas) if it is a difficult day. Another very clean Albergue but no food options, to my knowledge. I stopped there to put on my rain gear. I believe the weather dictates progress on this Camino. I stopped at Cabanillas, Poladura de la Tercia, Pajares, Pola de Lena and Mieres. From Mieres, I walked through Oviedo to Escamplero.

Cabanillas - Good albergue, no food
Buiza - Good Albergue, no food
Poladura - poor Albergue, no food, - there is a Casa rural
Pajares - Nice Albergue and food
Pola de Lena - Hostel and food options
Mieres - ok Albergue and lots of food options, also additional sleeping options.

Hope this helps.
Joe

KinkyOne · Nov 12, 2015

Nothing is certain yet, Laurie. So many options and even more issues to be solved until next summer. But most possible I won't be able to depart until beginning of June in best case, whichever combo I'll take. For Salvador I was thinking of this itinerary (all distances by Gronze):
- Cabanillas (18,3)
- Buiza (23,9)
- Pajares (23)
- Benduenos (only 15,4, but very charming albergue slightly off the route: http://www.gronze.com/asturias/benduenos/albergue-peregrinos-santuario-benduenos)
- Mieres del Camino (24,4)
- Oviedo (17,9 + rest day).
That's quite lazy 6(7) days

LauraK · Nov 12, 2015

Laurie: I just returned last week from walking the Salvador-Primitivo. I was fortunate to have clear sunny cool weather on the days I climbed the mountains on the Salvador and hospitals route on the Primitivo - 360 degree views that were stunningly beautiful. I am a slower walker than you so took five days and stopped in Poladura (also left a little later in the morning because sunrise wasn't until around 8:30 - it was just before the daylight savings time change). I arrived in the afternoon and shared the albergue with an Italian couple and a Spanish man. There are three small bedrooms so we all had a private room. The albergue is not the best but it was clean (a few dust bunnies floating around under my bunk). The heater in the little living room worked well and we moved it to the entrance to the bedrooms at night. There were plenty of extra blankets too. The bathroom was clean and there was just enough hot water for the four of us. It was in a much better state than Borres on the Primitivo. Oh...forgot there is a working tv in the living room. The Spanish man is a fast walker and when I arrived he was relaxing and watching tv).

The Spanish man ordered dinner for us the day before (0n advice from the previous albergue's hospitalero). It turns out that you can eat at the casa rural for 15€ or she would make the same dinner for us to pick up and take to the albergue for 8€. The group decided to "take out". It was a delicious cream of zucchini soup and chicken breast rolled around jamon with a sauce over fries and postre, bread and wine. It was very good. However, Poladura is a very small village and there is really nothing to do. While the food was delicious, I wouldn't recommend stopping there just for the food. That said, if I walked the Salvador again, I personally would stop there again (and maybe stay at the casa rural). Having two full days to walk through the mountains with time to rest and snack, take photos and just take in the beautiful scenery was fantastic. The weather was so perfect I stopped several times to sit in the sun, drink some water and just listen to the silence.

This was the most beautiful scenery of all my caminos. I would really consider walking it again. Ender has done an amazing job marking the Salvador route. I didn't need a guide...it was so much fun to just follow the flechas!

jpflavin1 · Nov 12, 2015

KinkyOne said:
Nothing is certain yet, Laurie. So many options and even more issues to be solved until next summer. But most possible I won't be able to depart until beginning of June in best case, whichever combo I'll take. For Salvador I was thinking of this itinerary (all distances by Gronze):
- Cabanillas (18,3)
- Buiza (23,9)
- Pajares (23)
- Benduenos (only 15,4, but very charming albergue slightly off the route: http://www.gronze.com/asturias/benduenos/albergue-peregrinos-santuario-benduenos)
- Mieres del Camino (24,4)
- Oviedo (17,9 + rest day).
That's quite lazy 6(7) days

KinkyOne:

This Camino is not to difficult with the exception of the Buiza to Campomanes section, imo. That said, weather is the wild card here. June should be a great time to walk.

Ultreya,
Joe

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

LauraK said:
Laurie: I just returned last week from walking the Salvador-Primitivo. I was fortunate to have clear sunny cool weather on the days I climbed the mountains on the Salvador and hospitals route on the Primitivo - 360 degree views that were stunningly beautiful. I am a slower walker than you so took five days and stopped in Poladura (also left a little later in the morning because sunrise wasn't until around 8:30 - it was just before the daylight savings time change). I arrived in the afternoon and shared the albergue with an Italian couple and a Spanish man. There are three small bedrooms so we all had a private room. The albergue is not the best but it was clean (a few dust bunnies floating around under my bunk). The heater in the little living room worked well and we moved it to the entrance to the bedrooms at night. There were plenty of extra blankets too. The bathroom was clean and there was just enough hot water for the four of us. It was in a much better state than Borres on the Primitivo. Oh...forgot there is a working tv in the living room. The Spanish man is a fast walker and when I arrived he was relaxing and watching tv).

The Spanish man ordered dinner for us the day before (0n advice from the previous albergue's hospitalero). It turns out that you can eat at the casa rural for 15€ or she would make the same dinner for us to pick up and take to the albergue for 8€. The group decided to "take out". It was a delicious cream of zucchini soup and chicken breast rolled around jamon with a sauce over fries and postre, bread and wine. It was very good. However, Poladura is a very small village and there is really nothing to do. While the food was delicious, I wouldn't recommend stopping there just for the food. That said, if I walked the Salvador again, I personally would stop there again (and maybe stay at the casa rural). Having two full days to walk through the mountains with time to rest and snack, take photos and just take in the beautiful scenery was fantastic. The weather was so perfect I stopped several times to sit in the sun, drink some water and just listen to the silence.

This was the most beautiful scenery of all my caminos. I would really consider walking it again. Ender has done an amazing job marking the Salvador route. I didn't need a guide...it was so much fun to just follow the flechas!

Laura, you've identified perfectly the thoughts that pull me towards a stay in Poladura -- Poladura sits right smack dab in the middle of one of the most beautiful stretches on any Camino I've walked. From Buiza to Pajares it is just jaw dropping, almost the entire way. So I had thought it would be nice to spread it over two days. Of course, the weather would be the ultimate decisionmaker.

Would you mind posting your exact stages on the Salvador, Laura, because I am definitely considering a 5 day plan with a stop in Poladura, unless LTfit appears that is! Buen camino, and many thanks, Laurie

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

KinkyOne said:
Nothing is certain yet, Laurie. So many options and even more issues to be solved until next summer. But most possible I won't be able to depart until beginning of June in best case, whichever combo I'll take. For Salvador I was thinking of this itinerary (all distances by Gronze):
- Cabanillas (18,3)
- Buiza (23,9)
- Pajares (23)
- Benduenos (only 15,4, but very charming albergue slightly off the route: http://www.gronze.com/asturias/benduenos/albergue-peregrinos-santuario-benduenos)
- Mieres del Camino (24,4)
- Oviedo (17,9 + rest day).
That's quite lazy 6(7) days

Yes, that albergue in Bendueños is tempting. Ender´s facebook page (Camino del Salvador) had some very nice pictures. I'll play around with combining a Poladura stay with Bendueños. Looks like Poladura to Bendueños would be around 30, unless my addition is way off. Hmmm.

KinkyOne · Nov 12, 2015

jpflavin1 said:
KinkyOne:

This Camino is not to difficult with the exception of the Buiza to Campomanes section, imo. That said, weather is the wild card here. June should be a great time to walk.

Ultreya,
Joe

Hola, Joe!
I'm aware that it's not so difficult but also that it's one of the most beautiful Caminos. Therefore I decided not to make very long stages and just enjoy in slow walking and long stops.
Thanks!

KinkyOne · Nov 12, 2015

peregrina2000 said:
Yes, that albergue in Bendueños is tempting. Ender´s facebook page (Camino del Salvador) had some very nice pictures. I'll play around with combining a Poladura stay with Bendueños. Looks like Poladura to Bendueños would be around 30, unless my addition is way off. Hmmm.

There are photos in Gronze link I attached in previous post. It really looks amazingly charming. And isolated also. Short stages, a bit heavier rucksack with some food and wine, nice weather and I'm good to enjoy it fully.
According to Gronze it's 29,8kms from Poladura to Bendueños, so no big deal for you even without Lee

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

KinkyOne said:
Nothing is certain yet, Laurie. So many options and even more issues to be solved until next summer. But most possible I won't be able to depart until beginning of June in best case, whichever combo I'll take. For Salvador I was thinking of this itinerary (all distances by Gronze):
- Cabanillas (18,3)
- Buiza (23,9)
- Pajares (23)
- Benduenos (only 15,4, but very charming albergue slightly off the route: http://www.gronze.com/asturias/benduenos/albergue-peregrinos-santuario-benduenos)
- Mieres del Camino (24,4)
- Oviedo (17,9 + rest day).
That's quite lazy 6(7) days

Ender's guide has a 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 day option, so there's room for more "laziness" on your part.

http://www.slideshare.net/caminodelsalvador/guia-del-camino-del-salvador (on pages 4 and 5)

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

KinkyOne said:
- Benduenos (only 15,4, but very charming albergue slightly off the route: http://www.gronze.com/asturias/benduenos/albergue-peregrinos-santuario-benduenos)

According to Gronze, this albergue in Bendueños is 1.5 km off camino, and there appears to be a (certainly almost traffic free) road between Herías and Bendueños.

The Gronze page also says the hospitalera will come to pick you up in Herías, Campomanes or even La Frecha.

If you use facebook, the Aug. 31 posting of Ender's Camino del Salvador page has a lot of pictures, Kinky is right, it looks very charming.
https://www.facebook.com/caminodelsalvador/?fref=ts

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

And looking at Ender's facebook page, I saw a link to a recent Salvador video:
It includes a stop at Bendueños, and has some very nice pics. But I have to say that in my experience, June is MUCH prettier! Laurie

LTfit · Nov 12, 2015

Hola fellow potential 'Salvadorians'.
I seem to be getting a bad reputation. You would have been surprised Laurie, I behaved myself and followed fairly short etapas during the first week on the Norte.

Back to the Salvador/Primitivo combo - with my class schedule I don't think that I can leave before mid June. But given the mountains, heat should not be an issue.

This is all tentative and in the contemplation stage I know, but Laurie what would be your timing leaving from the Ebro and ETA in León if you did the Salvador?

Would like to see potential stages for both. Definitely high up there on my list for 2016.
BC

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

LTfit said:
Hola fellow potential 'Salvadorians'.
I seem to be getting a bad reputation. You would have been surprised Laurie, I behaved myself and followed fairly short etapas during the first week on the Norte.

Back to the Salvador/Primitivo combo - with my class schedule I don't think that I can leave before mid June. But given the mountains, heat should not be an issue.

This is all tentative and in the contemplation stage I know, but Laurie what would be your timing leaving from the Ebro and ETA in León if you did the Salvador?

Would like to see potential stages for both. Definitely high up there on my list for 2016.
BC

sent you a PM, I think.

My ETA in León would be Sunday June 12 -- not too far from mid June, so maybe this will work!

LTfit · Nov 12, 2015

Sorry Laurie, just saw you sent a PM! Will get back to you!

norelle · Nov 12, 2015

Hi Laurie
I walked the Salvador in June this year - I left Leon June 13 and walked to La Robla the first day. Then to Poladura the next day. I stayed at the Casa Rural in Poladura.

The Casa Rural was a treat - and the food wonderful! My friend and I were the only pilgrims in the village that night. In fact, except for the night in La Robla, we never saw another pilgrim the whole way!

The next day we only walked to Pajares and it was lovely to take time over that section, to stop often and enjoy the views.

buen camino

OzAnnie · Nov 12, 2015

Marc S. said:
Stayed in the albergue in Poladura this April. Like Joe's experience in 2013, there was no hot water and there were problems with the electricity, but I was glad to find a bed after a long day's walk anyway. Had a lovely dinner in the casa rural though. Apart from that (and sitting in the garden of the casa rural) I don't think there is anything particular to do in Poladura.

Well well , hi there Marc
The Forum is so great. I wondered what happened to you. Will pm you later
.......I shared La Robla and Poladura alburgues with you and possibly ? The one after
Annie

OzAnnie · Nov 12, 2015

Hi Laurie
My experience in late April (same night! As Marc above stayed in the alburgue )was the same as Joe's.
Constant power out, no hot water, freezing but couldn't use heater - beds were very comfortable . Marc was the only one brave enough to take a freezing shower.
However I'm sure it must have been fixed since!
I'm reading that all seems OK by a number since then
Also my friend Kristine stopped there around 3 weeks ago (oct) and reported a ok/ she was about 4 days ahead of Laura.
Kristine had intended stopping at Casa Rurale but it was full (she hadn't booked)
She did the take away food option. They appear to have increased price ? I dined at the casa but don't remember the price

My stops were la robla(good alburgue)
Poladura de la Tercia, pajares. Pola de Lena
And Oviedo - the 5 day option

Enjoy your re-walk
Buen Camino
Annie

peregrina2000 · Nov 12, 2015

norelle said:
The next day we only walked to Pajares and it was lovely to take time over that section, to stop often and enjoy the views.

Did the views look anything like this? There may be equally beautiful sections on other caminos, but none more beautiful.

norelle · Nov 13, 2015

It did look like that, Laurie - we had blue ski and then clouds........and by the time we got to Pajares we had our ponchos on!

I agree, it is a beautiful section of the camino!

LauraK · Nov 13, 2015

peregrina2000 said:
Laura, you've identified perfectly the thoughts that pull me towards a stay in Poladura -- Poladura sits right smack dab in the middle of one of the most beautiful stretches on any Camino I've walked. From Buiza to Pajares it is just jaw dropping, almost the entire way. So I had thought it would be nice to spread it over two days. Of course, the weather would be the ultimate decisionmaker.

Would you mind posting your exact stages on the Salvador, Laura, because I am definitely considering a 5 day plan with a stop in Poladura, unless LTfit appears that is! Buen camino, and many thanks, Laurie

Laurie: My stages were the five day plan recommended in Ender's guide:
La Robla, Poladura de la Tercia, Pajares, Pola de Lena, Oviedo. I did get in early to Pajares the next day from Poladura but had a nice late lunch at the bar, did laundry and watched some local kids play soccer in the street. Many of the local women and kids use the computers and tables in the albergue as a community center in the late afternoon and early evening so lots of activity and conversation (although I mostly listened to the other Peregrino converse since my speaking skills are not strong). Very clean albergue with good showers, heat and wonderful views. I really enjoyed the next day's early morning walk down into the valley and back up the other side through the trees.

peregrina2000 · Dec 8, 2015

LauraK said:
Laurie: My stages were the five day plan recommended in Ender's guide:
La Robla, Poladura de la Tercia, Pajares, Pola de Lena, Oviedo. I did get in early to Pajares the next day from Poladura but had a nice late lunch at the bar, did laundry and watched some local kids play soccer in the street. Many of the local women and kids use the computers and tables in the albergue as a community center in the late afternoon and early evening so lots of activity and conversation (although I mostly listened to the other Peregrino converse since my speaking skills are not strong). Very clean albergue with good showers, heat and wonderful views. I really enjoyed the next day's early morning walk down into the valley and back up the other side through the trees.

A belated thanks for this info, Laura. I suppose I'll just wait and see how it goes when I (hopefully) start to walk in mid June. I have walked the four day version twice (Pola de Gordón - Pajares - Pola de Lena - Oviedo) and do really like the albergue and village of Pajares. But I am currently thinking I might slow down a bit and walk La Robla-Poladura-Bendueños-Mieres-Oviedo. The new albergue in Bendueños looks so nice, and I´ve heard that the village and its surroundings are also beautiful. That would leave me with a night in Mieres, since Bendueños to Oviedo would be way too far for me, but I've never stayed there either and I guess it's time to mix things up!

LauraK · Dec 8, 2015

I will be interested to hear about your stay at Benduenos and Mieres. I plan to walk the Salvador again some day - it was so beautiful. It is a perfect walk for a time when I don't have a month for a Camino. I walked from Pola de Lena to Oviedo and it was a little far especially in the rain.

peregrina2000 · Dec 9, 2015

LauraK said:
I will be interested to hear about your stay at Benduenos and Mieres. I plan to walk the Salvador again some day - it was so beautiful. It is a perfect walk for a time when I don't have a month for a Camino. I walked from Pola de Lena to Oviedo and it was a little far especially in the rain.

I agree about the Pola de Lena to Oviedo stretch. For me, the problem is that there are so many flat not so exciting kms before you get to Mieres, and then the fun starts -- three ups and downs, with Oviedo looking tantalizingly close but so far. If I walk from Bendueños to Mieres , I¡ll also have a long day, but I much prefer to have the the long flat part at the end rather than the beginning when I have more energy anyway. And then for the short day from Mieres to Oviedo, I'll be starting those three ascents at the beginning of the day and will undoubtedly prance right through them. Can't wait to get back on the Salvador, but I have to say I am hearing about a LOT of traffic on the Primitivo, and that would not be a great thing. Buen camino, Laurie

Kiwi-family · Dec 9, 2015

My turn to (hopefully) help you Laurie, after all you have done for me!
Of course it's a wee while since I walked the Salvador now (June 2014), but here's a note from my blog about Poladura:
Destination: Poladura (and an albergue that has everyone commenting about hopes that there will be no bedbugs and complaining good-naturedly about cold showers!!)
It was the dustiest place I ever came across! We had walked with a young French guy and had planned to meet an older French lady there too. Imagine our surprise to turn up at this albergue after a wonderful day (especially the afternoon - can I suggest you sit up the top just before the descent and eat a bar of chocolate and just enjoy the view if you're wondering how to fill in the time!!!! We did and it is a fabulous memory still)...anyway, as I was saying, we turned up at the albergue expecting to take all the beds as were a total of eight....and there were three Spanish guys already ensconced in their bunks. Hmmm! Noone wanted to sleep on the couch - noone even sat on it for fear of what might climb out of it and bite us;-) But we found a broom and swept the floors upstairs and then attacked downstairs as well, as the French lady wanted to sleep on her own down there. I slept on the floor with some of the kids who top-n-tailed and we all fit in. But it really was a mess - much worse than the famed Borres (which we thought was fine although we slept on the floor there too!). And it goes without saying that noone had a hot shower! The Spanish guys knew more than us and had rung ahead to have dinner delivered to them by someone in the village - it was very substantial and delicious-looking and they had leftovers to carry with them the next day.

We did Leon - La Robla (30km) - Poladura (24km) - Pajares (only 15km but the kids had a lot of fun playing in the rocks along the way) - Pola de Lena (26km) - Oveido (37km - this included wandering to the cathedral and then finding the albergue before turning the GPS off)
I like the look of your proposal as I'd love to walk this route again with my hubby some time and it would be lovely to stop at different places to what I did last time as I don't like replicating walks.

https://charitywalking.wordpress.com/category/camino/camino-del-salvador/ will take you to LOTS of pictures

peregrina2000 · Dec 9, 2015

Kiwi-family said:
My turn to (hopefully) help you Laurie, after all you have done for me!
Of course it's a wee while since I walked the Salvador now (June 2014), but here's a note from my blog about Poladura:
Destination: Poladura (and an albergue that has everyone commenting about hopes that there will be no bedbugs and complaining good-naturedly about cold showers!!)
It was the dustiest place I ever came across! We had walked with a young French guy and had planned to meet an older French lady there too. Imagine our surprise to turn up at this albergue after a wonderful day (especially the afternoon - can I suggest you sit up the top just before the descent and eat a bar of chocolate and just enjoy the view if you're wondering how to fill in the time!!!! We did and it is a fabulous memory still)...anyway, as I was saying, we turned up at the albergue expecting to take all the beds as were a total of eight....and there were three Spanish guys already ensconced in their bunks. Hmmm! Noone wanted to sleep on the couch - noone even sat on it for fear of what might climb out of it and bite us;-) But we found a broom and swept the floors upstairs and then attacked downstairs as well, as the French lady wanted to sleep on her own down there. I slept on the floor with some of the kids who top-n-tailed and we all fit in. But it really was a mess - much worse than the famed Borres (which we thought was fine although we slept on the floor there too!). And it goes without saying that noone had a hot shower! The Spanish guys knew more than us and had rung ahead to have dinner delivered to them by someone in the village - it was very substantial and delicious-looking and they had leftovers to carry with them the next day.

We did Leon - La Robla (30km) - Poladura (24km) - Pajares (only 15km but the kids had a lot of fun playing in the rocks along the way) - Pola de Lena (26km) - Oveido (37km - this included wandering to the cathedral and then finding the albergue before turning the GPS off)
I like the look of your proposal as I'd love to walk this route again with my hubby some time and it would be lovely to stop at different places to what I did last time as I don't like replicating walks.

https://charitywalking.wordpress.com/category/camino/camino-del-salvador/ will take you to LOTS of pictures

Thanks, Rachel, Well, if I stay in Poladura, your description of the albergue just confirms that I am definitely going to reserve a place in the Casa Rural (which must be where the Spanish guys' food camme from). Rebekah first told me about that place more than a decade ago, and I have had it on my list since then. But for whatever reason, both times I decided to keep on walking to Pajares. And like you, I enjoy staying in different places, because that makes it less of a "repeat" and more of a new camino. I will enjoy going back through your blog as I dream about this camino again. Thanks much. How is your Vdlp planning going? Buen camino, Laurie

Kiwi-family · Dec 9, 2015

Laurie, the albergue was not uninhabitable! It had a kitchen with a pot and we only had to fix the electricity supply half a dozen times while trying to heat the food we had carried with us;-) There was water in the shower and the mold stayed on the walls! I have honestly stayed in worse places in my travels. I would be willing to stay there again, but at the same time, a night in a nice Casa Rural would certainly be an attraction, and I am aware that most people prefer a higher standard of comfort than I am happy with!
VdlP plans are coming along nicely. The kids have each chosen a main centre to research and are putting together little walking torus for us to do! We could leave tomorrow and just follow the arrows, but it is also fun to find out a thing or two about where we are going beforehand. Mind you, we have precious little time right now - what with preparing for Christmas (we'll be hosting 50 people and helping run a community dinner put on by our church), sending a son off to China on a prime minister's scholarship for a month (that's all up in the air as they don't have dates set but he could be going as early as next Tuesday, and if not then, probably before Christmas, so we are doing an extra family Christmas before he leaves), wedding plans for eldest daughter for just after he comes home, younger kids are training for a triathlon the week after the wedding....before we know it May 1st will be here and we'll be on our way!

Rebekah Scott · Dec 9, 2015

"More than a decade ago?" Holy cow, Laurie! We're pioneers!

LauraK · Dec 10, 2015

Just wanted to comment on Poladura in case other peregrinos are researching and reading this. I stayed in Poladura in October 2015 and it was in much better condition than Kiwi-family encountered in 2014. Still a little dusty but bathroom and rooms were clean. Small portable heater worked well and sufficient hot water for showers for the four of us staying there (although probably would have been cold after that). Three small sleeping rooms and central living room with dining table, sofa and tv. Vending machine downstairs with snacks and coffee. We ordered a delicious dinner from the casa rural next door (must call the day before - 8€ take out/15€ eat in). On the other hand, Borres was dirty, no kitchen/utensils (microwave only) and dirty bathroom. Opposite of Kiwi-family's experience. So I would say both fit in the very basic category and may/may not be clean when you arrive. I had no problem staying in both albergues and was grateful to have a warm bed, but would put them at the bottom of my list for a return visit.

Kiwi-family · Dec 10, 2015

We gave that place such a good going-over I'm not surprised it's still clean;-) By the time we'd done that we were too tired to attack the bathroom though and so left it as it was!

koilife · Dec 10, 2015

A number of people above reference "Ender's Guide." I haven't seen that, and am wondering if that is the reference to his Facebook page, or something else.

Starting to prepare for pilgrimage with my middle son for next summer (Meseta -- Salvador -- Primitivo), and I haven't walked either of the later two. Other guides that people recommend for the Salvador??? (and yes, I have the 2nd edition CSJ (thanks Rebekah and Laurie)).

peregrina2000 · Dec 10, 2015

koilife said:
A number of people above reference "Ender's Guide." I haven't seen that, and am wondering if that is the reference to his Facebook page, or something else.

Starting to prepare for pilgrimage with my middle son for next summer (Meseta -- Salvador -- Primitivo), and I haven't walked either of the later two. Other guides that people recommend for the Salvador??? (and yes, I have the 2nd edition CSJ (thanks Rebekah and Laurie)).

Koilife, so good to hear from you! I remember our knife discussions from several years ago, I think it was.

Here is a link to Ender's Guide in English. http://www.slideshare.net/caminodelsalvador/guia-ingles-del-camino-del-salvador
In Spanish: http://www.slideshare.net/caminodelsalvador/guia-del-camino-del-salvador

There will be a new version of Ender's guide in Spring 2016, I believe. I will be involved in translating it into English, and will let you know when it's ready. When do you think you'll start the Salvador? My tentative idea is around June 11- 14. Laurie

koilife · Dec 10, 2015

Laurie --- Yes, we talked knives in relation to a portable kitchen at less than 16 ounces to compensate for the usual challenges of an albergue kitchen. I topped out at exactly 16 oz with enough excess luxuries to cause hard-core apoplexy, such as 2 oz. of hot pepper sauce (salsa picante just doesn't mean the same thing in Spain as I think it should mean)!

Thanks for the links to Ender's guide, and thanks for helping translate the 2016 version for us illiterati.

If all goes as planned, we'll start from Burgos on May 30, start the Salvador on June 6, and start the Primitivo on June 13. That gives us a full rest day each Sunday so we can attend Mass in Burgos, Leon, Oviedo, and (finally) Santiago.

peregrina2000 · Dec 11, 2015

koilife said:
Laurie --- Yes, we talked knives in relation to a portable kitchen at less than 16 ounces to compensate for the usual challenges of an albergue kitchen. I topped out at exactly 16 oz with enough excess luxuries to cause hard-core apoplexy, such as 2 oz. of hot pepper sauce (salsa picante just doesn't mean the same thing in Spain as I think it should mean)!

Thanks for the links to Ender's guide, and thanks for helping translate the 2016 version for us illiterati.

If all goes as planned, we'll start from Burgos on May 30, start the Salvador on June 6, and start the Primitivo on June 13. That gives us a full rest day each Sunday so we can attend Mass in Burgos, Leon, Oviedo, and (finally) Santiago.

Drats! If all goes well, it looks like you will be a few days ahead of me. I'm hoping to start the Salvador around the 13th. I would love to be a beneficiary of your obviously superior culinary skills. And I would have been a very dedicated chopper and dishwasher.

koilife · Dec 11, 2015

peregrina2000 said:
I would love to be a beneficiary of your obviously superior culinary skills. And I would have been a very dedicated chopper and dishwasher.

So, what you're really saying is that you're just using me for my cooking skills?!

On the other hand, it's possible we'll delay by one week, pending my son's end-of-year test schedule, which would be perfect timing for you . . . you creature of the appetites!

koilife · Jan 30, 2016

peregrina2000 said:
Drats! If all goes well, it looks like you will be a few days ahead of me. I'm hoping to start the Salvador around the 13th. I would love to be a beneficiary of your obviously superior culinary skills. And I would have been a very dedicated chopper and dishwasher.

Laurie, a funny thing happened last weekend. I was helping on a youth retreat at my parish, and they served churros for dessert. I reminisced about drinking chocolate and churros in Logrono, and all the kids immediately went and made triple thick hot cocoa for dipping their churros.

BUT, it awoke an irrational, spontaneous, visceral desire to start in Logrono rather than Burgos, putting us in Leon and starting the Salavdor at the same time you are, assuming you haven't changed plans.

Yes, I know I can get chocolate con churros across most of the camino route, but somehow there was nowhere better than in the plaza outside the Cathedral of Logrono in my memory.

peregrina2000 · Jan 30, 2016

koilife said:
Laurie, a funny thing happened last weekend. I was helping on a youth retreat at my parish, and they served churros for dessert. I reminisced about drinking chocolate and churros in Logrono, and all the kids immediately went and made triple thick hot cocoa for dipping their churros.

BUT, it awoke an irrational, spontaneous, visceral desire to start in Logrono rather than Burgos, putting us in Leon and starting the Salavdor at the same time you are, assuming you haven't changed plans.

Yes, I know I can get chocolate con churros across most of the camino route, but somehow there was nowhere better than in the plaza outside the Cathedral of Logrono in my memory.

Fantastic! My date is not set in stone, but I hope to be there to begin around that time, and it sounds like we may just coincide! And if you are still planning to spend a week from León to Oviedo, even if I start later, we may nevertheless wind up at the same place one night. That would be great. Laurie

koilife · Jan 31, 2016

That will be wonderful indeed!

We're not sure whether we'll be five or six days walking from Leon to Oviedo. My plan this time around is much more fluid than the last. Much will depend on how we feel, if we're fighting any injuries, and if we've lost much time from the prior two weeks. Seven days planned for each leg from Logrono to Burgos to Lyon to Oviedo includes at least one rest day per leg, as well as some flexibility to take a short day or two to explore spots in greater detail. Sunday Mass at each city's cathedral would be nice; hence the seven day legs. But we take what comes with gratitude, such as dinner with extraordinary pilgrims like you!

Should I spend a night in Poladura?

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