Setting Off From Ponferrada Next Weekend

[Charrito]

I'll keep you all up to date with anything new I come across.

 

[KinkyOne]

It looks like you'll have at least 2 days of sun into Invierno which is good for starting. I'll be one week after you but on Levante. Once there I plan to minimize my presence in virtual world so I'm glad I will be able to follow you through the first week.

What else to say than Ultreia!

 

[Charrito]

It looks like you'll have at least 2 days of sun into Invierno which is good for starting. I'll be one week after you but on Levante. Once there I plan to minimize my presence in virtual world so I'm glad I will be able to follow you through the first week.

What else to say than Ultreia!

Cheers, Kinky!

I'm really looking forward to this Camino. At times I look at some of the long stages and get a bit apprehensive, but then I read through your epic story from last year and it gets rid of all my nerves!

Anyway, what I plan to do is nothing compared with your trip. Levante and then on to Fisterra? WOW!

Buen Camino, amigo!

 

[KinkyOne]

Cheers, Kinky!

I'm really looking forward to this Camino. At times I look at some of the long stages and get a bit apprehensive, but then I read through your epic story from last year and it gets rid of all my nerves!

Anyway, what I plan to do is nothing compared with your trip. Levante and then on to Fisterra? WOW!

Buen Camino, amigo!

Nothing to be nervous about
You'll enjoy the route and your mum will be walking with you.

Keep us posted. Ultreia!

 

[Charrito]

Ready for tomorrow!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Charrito, somehow I missed your first post, so glad to see it now. I remember that mojon perfectly, right beyond the albergue on the left. Off you go, can't wait to hear all about it. I too will be there, hopefully, in about five weeks with LT and Rebekah! Love this pre-camino expectation/jitters/exhiliration. But there is nothing like actually starting to walk. Wishing you a wonderful Invierno, Laurie

 

[Charrito]

Thanks, Laurie

Having a few wines in Ponfe, ready to set off early tomorrow. I'm hoping to get all the way to Puente de Domingo Flórez, but I'll keep you all up to date.

 

[KinkyOne]

Thanks, Laurie

Having a few wines in Ponfe, ready to set off early tomorrow. I'm hoping to get all the way to Puente de Domingo Flórez, but I'll keep you all up to date.

Enjoy it, Charrito!!!

 

[Charrito]

That was a long long stage! I've made it all the way from Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Flórez, but it really was too much.

Setting off at 5 past 8 on a Sunday morning means that you will not find a single bar open until you get up to Las Médulas. Not even in Borrenes.

Just as well I had decided to skip the walk up to the Castillo de Cornatel!

I really loved most of the stage, but there are some pretty long stretches uphill on tarmac. No good for a thirsty pilgrim in 30 degree heat!

I had a couple of beers and a fantatic caldo berciano in the first bar on the right in Las Médulas (next to the parking area). No sello, but I had a long chat to the owner, who is seriously considering setting up an albergue.

The walk from Las Médulas to Puente was long, hot and dusty. The downhill stretch is interminable, and it's definitely much longer than the 5.7 kms they tell you at the top.

I'm staying in the Hostal La Torre. Nice people, as Kinky said. The shower is probably the most powerful I've ever been under!

Anyway, time to terrorise the locals.

I'll post some photos here.

 

[Charrito]

 

[KinkyOne]

That was a long long stage! I've made it all the way from Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Flórez, but it really was too much.

Setting off at 5 past 8 on a Sunday morning means that you will not find a single bar open until you get up to Las Médulas. Not even in Borrenes.

Just as well I had decided to skip the walk up to the Castillo de Cornatel!

I really loved most of the stage, but there are some pretty long stretches uphill on tarmac. No good for a thirsty pilgrim in 30 degree heat!

I had a couple of beers and a fantatic caldo berciano in the first bar on the right in Las Médulas (next to the parking area). No sello, but I had a long chat to the owner, who is seriously considering setting up an albergue.

The walk from Las Médulas to Puente was long, hot and dusty. The downhill stretch is interminable, and it's definitely much longer than the 5.7 kms they tell you at the top.

I'm staying in the Hostal La Torre. Nice people, as Kinky said. The shower is probably the most powerful I've ever been under!

Anyway, time to terrorise the locals.

I'll post some photos here.

Huh, Charrito, that was one looong stretch I can hardly imagine walking it with that steep ascent to Cornatel included so I guess you were saved by this decision.
Opening an albergue in Las Medulas is excelent idea!

Enjoy your evening

 

[Charrito]

Huh, Charrito, that was one looong stretch I can hardly imagine walking it with that steep ascent to Cornatel included so I guess you were saved by this decision.
Opening an albergue in Las Medulas is excelent idea!

Enjoy your evening

Having a beer outside Las Torres, then inside to cenar.

 

[Charrito]

Day 2: Safe and sound in O Barco, sitting by the river and watching the ducks.

Lovely stage today. A few ups and downs, especially after Éntoma, and some tarmac, but most of the time you have the river down on your left.

I stopped in both bars in Sobradelo; a nice gift (pen/torch) from Bar Mar, where I had a long chat with the super-friendly owner (he recalled Kinky!).

I walked down to take photos of the splendid bridge.

Bad news: the bar in Éntoma is now closed, as the owner retired!

I've got a great room in La Gran Tortuga. En suite, brand new shower, balcony. All for 20 euros.

I asked the owner for a good place to eat and he sent me to Casa Paradelo, in a back street behind the hostal. Off the tourist track, but what a find! 9 euro menu, garden round the back. Great food (quality and quantity) and great service. Photos attached.

Easy stage tomorrow, to A Rúa. And the temperatures are going up! Wednesday is going to be a killer up to Quiroga.

 

[KinkyOne]

View attachment 18909 Day 2: Safe and sound in O Barco, sitting by the river and watching the ducks.

Lovely stage today. A few ups and downs, especially after Éntoma, and some tarmac, but most of the time you have the river down on your left.

I stopped in both bars in Sobradelo; a nice gift (pen/torch) from Bar Mar, where I had a long chat with the super-friendly owner (he recalled Kinky!).

I walked down to take photos of the splendid bridge.

Bad news: the bar in Éntoma is now closed, as the owner retired!

I've got a great room in La Gran Tortuga. En suite, brand new shower, balcony. All for 20 euros.

I asked the owner for a good place to eat and he sent me to Casa Paradelo, in a back street behind the hostal. Off the tourist track, but what a find! 9 euro menu, garden round the back. Great food (quality and quantity) and great service. Photos attached.

Easy stage tomorrow, to A Rúa. And the temperatures are going up! Wednesday is going to be a killer up to Quiroga.

Ahahahahaha, so I guess I'm already famous now?

Great info about acommodation and dinner option, thanks. Although I can hardly read the menu Laurie & @LTfit will check it out I guess, at least for dinner? But albergue in Xagoaza (with possible visit to the monastery) might be nice for them also.

Yes, very easy stretch to A Rua tomorrow. According to temperatures my advice is to stop at Vilamartin polideportivo by the river and enjoy an hour or two in the swimming pool although A Rua has it too. Did you decide about your place for sleep in A Rua?

Enjoy!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Charrito, Maybe the Invierno traffic is generating enough income for the Tortuga renovations, because the bathroom was pretty old when I was there 3 years ago. One thing I missed when I was in A Rúa was the chance to do some wine tasting -- Rebekah has told me the wine from there is very good. But Asún took me up to see a romanesque church in a tiny hamlet way up in the hills, so I have no complaints! Will you be staying with Asún and her mom?

I´ve been checking weather for my walking, too (starting Thursday) and looks like Girona and northern Catalunya will be equally hot. But I am NOT complaining! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Charrito]

Bathroom photos!

 

[Charrito]

Day 3: Probably the shortest, flattest, easiest stage I've ever done! Quite a bit of road walking, but hardly any traffic until you reach the outskirts of A Rúa.

I'm staying in Hostal Niza (25 euros en suite), excellent value. I will go up to the Albergue to see Asún later, though.

This afternoon I plan to walk to Montefurado, and then get the train back here to A Rúa. Tomorrow morning I will get the 10.03 train to Montefurado and continue on by foot to Quiroga. I think it's a sensible option to cut down on tomorrow's long stage.

Kinky: the swimming pool at Villamartín was not open, so I sat by the river for 15 minutes.

 

[Charrito]

Laurie, I've started my wine tasting! Godello.

Buen camino over there on the other side of the country!

 

[Charrito]

Spelling mistake?

 

[LTfit]

@Charrito great reading your updates (I also somehow missed this thread). As Laurie said, we will be there in about a month. She is off today to Spain and we'll first meet up on the 13th in Monserrat.

Buen Camino and keep the postings coming!

 

[Charrito]

Thanks, LT. You're going to love the Invierno!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Charrito, what better way to while away the hours before departure for the camino than reading your posts! Glad you are having such a good experience. I take it you haven't met any other pilgrims yet? Hope the temperatures are moderating for you. On to Quiroga! If you stay in the hostal, the owners will leave you a thermos of hot coffee and some desayuno when they go to bed. This was the Camino that prompted me to buy my electric coil!

 

[Charrito]

Hi, Charrito, what better way to while away the hours before departure for the camino than reading your posts! Glad you are having such a good experience. I take it you haven't met any other pilgrims yet? Hope the temperatures are moderating for you. On to Quiroga! If you stay in the hostal, the owners will leave you a thermos of hot coffee and some desayuno when they go to bed. This was the Camino that prompted me to buy my electric coil!

I met two more pilgrims, from Valencia, yesterday in Sobradelo, but they were only doing 5 or 6 stages before getting a bus to Santiago and flying home.

Everyone I speak to (I'm fluent in Spanish after living here for 30 years and 4 days!) tells me that this Camino could/should really take off. For the moment, though, it's ideal. 21 pilgrims in May, compared to 25,000 on the Francés!

I know where I'd rather be!

 

[Charrito]

I didn't go to Montefurado today. I called in at the association offices and he drove me to the albergue to meet Asún.

What an incredible lady! She looked at my two blisters and has given me some special ointment. And she remembered you, Kinky! I had two hugs from her: one for me and a big one for you!

The lad from the office- I don't know his name - then drove me over to Petín to see the fantastic bridge, and he's left me by the lakeside in a lovely wooden chiringuito.

3 pilgrims from Córdoba in the albergue. We'll meet tomorrow.

 

[KinkyOne]

View attachment 18944 View attachment 18944 View attachment 18945 I didn't go to Montefurado today. I called in at the association offices and he drove me to the albergue to meet Asún.

What an incredible lady! She looked at my two blisters and has given me some special ointment. And she remembered you, Kinky! I had two hugs from her: one for me and a big one for you!

The lad from the office- I don't know his name - then drove me over to Petín to see the fantastic bridge, and he's left me by the lakeside in a lovely wooden chiringuito.

3 pilgrims from Córdoba in the albergue. We'll meet tomorrow.

So you didn't walk at all today, Charrito? After short etape this could become a habit
Ah, yes, my one and only medic Asun!!! Thank you.

 

[Charrito]

So you didn't walk at all today, Charrito? After short etape this could become a habit
Ah, yes, my one and only medic Asun!!! Thank you.

 

[Charrito]

Long stage tomorrow. I've stocked up on provisions as I doubt whether your 'sexy girl' and her chiringuito in Soldón will be open. It's going to be really hot tomorrow - 36 degrees- so if she's open I'm going to drink all her beer!

Asún is marvellous!

 

[Charrito]

So you didn't walk at all today, Charrito? After short etape this could become a habit
Ah, yes, my one and only medic Asun!!! Thank you.

Of course I walked yesterday! But just O Barco to A Rúa.

Today is spectacular, but long and pretty hard going so far. Another hour to Quiroga.

 

[KinkyOne]

Of course I walked yesterday! But just O Barco to A Rúa.

Today is spectacular, but long and pretty hard going so far. Another hour to Quiroga.

Oh, I see. I thought you was going to walk today only to Montefurado
After you enter Quiroga you'll see swimming pool down to the left near the river. It was opened last year and I was really sorry I didn't bring my speedos. It would be so nice to cool down after that stretch in about the same hot weather as you had today. Not a mistake I'll do this year

How was Soldon?

 

[Charrito]

Your bar? Not open!!! Mind you, it was very early, as I wanted to avoid the midday heat.

Coming into quiroga shortly. I DO have my swimming trunks with me, so I may well do what you say.

 

[Charrito]

That was HARD WORK!

 

[Charrito]

I'm staying in the Hostal Quiper. Excellent value, just 17 euros, pilgrim price.

 

[Charrito]

Great meal in Restauante Aroza, 80 metres up the road opposite the hostal. All this for 9.50 euros, and much more choice.

Menestra de verduras, ternera asada con champiñones, ensalada, pan, vino, natillas caseras, café and chupito de licor café.

Just amazing value!

 

[Ribeirasacra]

I like you last photo.
I think you writing about the high day time temperatures has made it rain tomorrow. Or so they forecast at the moment.
http://www.eltiempo.es/quiroga.html

 

[KinkyOne]

Your bar? Not open!!! Mind you, it was very early, as I wanted to avoid the midday heat.

Coming into quiroga shortly. I DO have my swimming trunks with me, so I may well do what you say.

Ah, I don't mind the heat as long I can find open bars here and there

And those photos of your dinner....... C'mon, I could never eat that even after two days of walking and I'm 95kg/180cm

It looks to me that you're having a ball on this Camino, really enjoying it!

Ultreia!

 

[Charrito]

I like you last photo.
I think you writing about the high day time temperatures has made it rain tomorrow. Or so they forecast at the moment.
http://www.eltiempo.es/quiroga.html

Rain? PLEASE!!

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Must admit we do need some rain. It has not done so for a number of weeks now and everything is looking dry.

 

[Charrito]

Ah, I don't mind the heat as long I can find open bars here and there

And those photos of your dinner....... C'mon, I could never eat that even after two days of walking and I'm 95kg/180cm

It looks to me that you're having a ball on this Camino, really enjoying it!

Ultreia!

I could have eaten more today!

 

[KinkyOne]

I could have eaten more today!

I can invite you to my house any day you want. But only on half board, OK?

 

[Charrito]

I can invite you to my house any day you want. But only on half board, OK?

You can come to Salamanca whenever you want. I guarantee that you'll be closer to 100 kilos when you leave!!!

 

[KinkyOne]

Hahaha

You can come to Salamanca whenever you want. I guarantee that you'll be closer to 100 kilos when you leave!!!

Hahahaha, not going to happen. I mean 100 kilos. In 2011 I've lost 18 on CF, last year 8, this year maybe 20 if these temperatures continues, who knows.
As for staying at my house ask @lovingkindness how she liked hot beef bone marrow on black (full) bread with a pinch of salt and black pepper... And that was just for starters
If you want we can proceed with hot chicharrones con cebolla y huevos duros con rabano picante en vinagre de sidra de manzana - still an appetizer (I don't know if the translations are really correct...). Want some more?

But food on those photos sure look delicious!!!

 

[Charrito]

Hahaha

Hahahaha, not going to happen. I mean 100 kilos. In 2011 I've lost 18 on CF, last year 8, this year maybe 20 if these temperatures continues, who knows.
As for staying at my house ask @lovingkindness how she liked hot beef bone marrow on black (full) bread with a pinch of salt and black pepper... And that was just for starters
If you want we can proceed with hot chicharrones con cebolla y huevos duros con rabano picante en vinagre de sidra de manzana - still an appetizer (I don't know if the translations are really correct...). Want some more?

But food on those photos sure look delicious!!!

Sounds great! Here are more photos of the 'little' tapitas that I've just had!!

3 wines (do país) and those 2 enormous tapas cost 3.50 euros.

 

[madrid12]

Really enjoying reading your posts. We did a non camino holiday in the area last year travelling by train with our tajeta doradas and the trip from Monforte to Ponferrada was lovely. Might have to be my next camino.

 

[Charrito]

Really enjoying reading your posts. We did a non camino holiday in the area last year travelling by train with our tajeta doradas and the trip from Monforte to Ponferrada was lovely. Might have to be my next camino.

It's lovely by train or car, but hard work when you're walkkng in this heat!

 

[Charrito]

A long day today, compounded by the fact that I took the wrong path from Carballo de Lar and probably walked an extra 4 kms!

When I finally got down to the bridge in Barxa do Lor, I found the bar a few hundred yards to the left, had a beer, thought about things and decided to call for a taxi up to A Pobra do Brollón.

It was well over 30 degrees and my feet were burning, so I don't think it would have been wise to carry on.

The taxi driver is the owner of Hostal As Viñas, and we had a long chat about when Kinky was here last year.

A lot of ascending today, until you get to the tiny Ermita at the top.

They send you over the first bridge out of Quiroga, into San Clodio, and then back over the river by another bridge! Strange!

There's been a welcome thunderstorm a few minutes ago, and it's certainly freshened the air.

Tomorrow I plan to stop for a time in Monforte, before carrying on and deviating up to Escairón. On Saturday morning I pick up the Camino again by the church in Diomondi.

 

[Charrito]

 

[KinkyOne]

A long day today, compounded by the fact that I took the wrong path from Carballo do Lar and probably walked an extra 4 kms!

When I finally got down to the bridge in Barxa do Lor, I found the bar a few hundred yards to the left, had a beer, thought about things and decided to call for a taxi up to A Pobra do Brollón.

It was well over 30 degrees and my feet were burning, so I don't think it would have been wise to carry on.

The taxi driver is the owner of Hostal As Viñas, and we had a long chat about when Kinky was here last year.

A lot of ascending today, until you get to the tiny Ermita at the top.

They send you over the first bridge out of Quiroga, into San Clodio, and then back over the tiver by another bridge! Strange!

There's been a welcome thunderstorm a few minutes ago, and it's certainly freshened the air.

Tomorrow I plan to stop for a time in Monforte, before carrying on and deviating up to Escairón. On Saturday morning I pick up the Camino again by the church in Diomondi.

Hola, Charrito

Do you remember where you took the wrong turn? I can't really remember there were any "second" options but then again I missed 7 (!!!) brand new yellow arrows at a single spot once on CF...

And please, Charrito, give my "honesto saudação trabalhador" to the owner of As Vinas (he's Portugues that's why my regards in his language). Thanks!

 

[Charrito]

Hola, Charrito

Do you remember where you took the wrong turn? I can't really remember there were any "second" options but then again I missed 7 (!!!) brand new yellow arrows at a single spot once on CF...

And please, Charrito, give my "honesto saudação trabalhador" to the owner of As Vinas (he's Portugues that's why my regards in his language). Thanks!

Wrong turn up in Carballo de Lar. Where I took the photo I just went right, stopped by the village lavadoiro for a shower(!) and then carried on for over 20 minutes before realising I'd got lost.

I've already given your regards to José. What a nice interesting guy! I think he speaks more languages than you!

 

[KinkyOne]

Wrong turn up in Carballo do Lar. Where I took the photo I just went right, stopped by the village lavadoiro for a shower(!) and then carried on for over 20 minutes before realising I'd got lost.

I've already given your regards to José. What a nice interesting guy! I think he speaks more languages than you!

Ahahahaha, yes I remember when I was there we first talked about the room and I've asked him could we do this just a little bit later. I just wanted to have a cold beer. And when I was walking out of the bar with a beer in my hand he shouted at me "lepa devojka" which means "nice girl" in Serbian I wondered what might happen later in the evening, hahaha. He just wanted to show me that he still remembers some of the languages of the workers he used to work with in France (in ironworks as I remember).
Could you show him the words I've sent or say them? I know he'll be "honrado".
He's really a character!!!!!!!!!

I'll look at my gps track about your wrong turn. I just have to clear that out (for myself)

 

[Charrito]

Ahahahaha, yes I remember when I was there we first talked about the room and I've asked him could we do this just a little bit later. I just wanted to have a cold beer. And when I was walking out of the bar with a beer in my hand he shouted at me "lepa devojka" which means "nice girl" in Serbian I wondered what might happen later in the evening, hahaha. He just wanted to show me that he still remembers some of the languages of the workers he used to work with in France (in ironworks as I remember).
Could you show him the words I've sent or say them? I know he'll be "honrado".
He's really a character!!!!!!!!!

I'll look at my gps track about your wrong turn. I just have to clear that out (for myself)

I'll show him your words later!

 

[Charrito]

Izgubio sam se!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Charrito, loving your posts. I walked to sant Pere de Rodes today, an amazing 11 C monastery, which explains my infrequent messages to you. It's hot over here in Catslunya too, and I would love to see the temps drop.

I think I ate in the same restaurant in Quiroga, and like you I was able to finish the whole thing! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Charrito]

Hi Charrito, loving your posts. I walked to sant Pere de Rodes today, an amazing 11 C monastery, which explains my infrequent messages to you. It's hot over here in Catslunya too, and I would love to see the temps drop.

I think I ate in the same restaurant in Quiroga, and like you I was able to finish the whole thing! Buen camino, Laurie

Enjoy yourself over there, Laurie!

Apart from the ridiculous heat and getting lost today, I'm finding this Camino to be spectacular.

You hardly see a single person during the whole stage, but the lack of places to stop (bars, etc.) makes it tough going.

This is why I'm planning on a slight detour tomorrow, in order to make the stage to Chantada more manageable.

Buen Camino!

 

[KinkyOne]

Indeed it's spectacular, and I've also found enough water sources on the way and people oh so friendly and nice. Beautiful memories from both Madrid & Invierno. I can only hope that this year will be the same. Or at least close to it

Charrito, your posts are somehow scarce but so full of joy in a way. I can feel enjoyment you're experiencing. Really nice to read this kind of posts LIVE from the Camino! Thanks.

Ultreia!

 

[LTfit]

We will definately have to revisit this thread before we begin the Invierno. My mind is now on gettting myself from Barcelona to Monserrat . It looks like Laurie might need to perform CPR when I finally make it up the mountain!

Enjoying the posts Charrito even if I'm not a foodie; I have been known to live on ensalada mixta and tortilla francesa.

And as a physiotherapist-acupuncturist I look forward to meeting this Asún!

 

[Charrito]

Indeed it's spectacular, and I've also found enough water sources on the way and people oh so friendly and nice. Beautiful memories from both Madrid & Invierno. I can only hope that this year will be the same. Or at least close to it

Charrito, your posts are somehow scarce but so full of joy in a way. I can feel enjoyment you're experiencing. Really nice to read this kind of posts LIVE from the Camino! Thanks.

Ultreia!

It was not my intention to write in any detail about each stage. The CSJ guide and your account are perfect.

I prefer to just mention some things and places that capture my attention and which may be interesting to other members on here.

 

[Charrito]

Well on my way past Monforte towards Escairón. I'll need to turn right at Kinky's magic crossroads, with all those signs.

Cooler today, only 26 degrees.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well on my way past Monforte towards Escairón. I'll need to turn right at Kinky's magic crossroads, with all those signs.

Cooler today, only 26 degrees.

So are you going to the foodie place after all?

Glad the temps are coming down.

 

[Charrito]

I went for the Hotel O Ruso in escairón. 3 kms north of the Camino, tomorrow just 7 kms from here to Diomondi, then down to Belesar and up to Chantada.

Escairón seems a peaceful little town, and the hotel is very good.

It's definitely possible to walk from A Pobra to here, though it takes ages to get through Monforte!

 

[KinkyOne]

So are you going to the foodie place after all?

Glad the temps are coming down.

As I remember Charrito is going to Hotel O Ruso in Escairon and that is on the right from A Barxa crossroads. Another option worth to try. I guess we will have report very soon

EDIT: Hahaha I was 2 minutes late

 

[Charrito]

Tomorrow should be fun! Down to Belesar with this lovely blister, then up to Chantada??

 

[KinkyOne]

View attachment 18999 Tomorrow should be fun! Down to Belesar with this lovely blister, then up to Chantada??

Oops, take care of this because you actually have two blisters. I guess one is older than the other one. That means one isn't really healed. Use whatever means you know or find here on the forum. It's a steep downhill and as much steep uphill to Chantada. You don't want to curse more than you have to

I'm off in an hour. Bye!

 

[Charrito]

I'm sitting by the church in Diomondi. Easy to get here from Escairón: head west on LU 617, then turn left by the cheese factory. You'll hear and smell it before you see it!

Right: down to Belesar and up to Chantada now.

Buen Camino to you all!

 

[Charrito]

Lovely slow walk down to Belesar. Kinky's 'posh' bar wasn't opening until 11, so I started the steep walk up the other side.

The Meson is open, so I'm sitting here with a cold beer with spectacular views of the Miño.

Lovely bar, by the way, and great smells coming out of the kitchen!

 

[Charrito]

That was a long uphill slog after Belesar, but I'm now in Chantada.

Stopping off in Escairón is DEFINITELY recommendable. From A Pobra it's pretty long, but not difficult. Today's stage has just been about 17 kms.

 

[Ribeirasacra]

If you others want to walk directly to Escarión from Monforte de Lemos there is also a direct link all on a very underused road.
From the roundabout in Monforte with the Horreo on it. Walk past the filling (petrol/gas) station*. Up the road until you find another roundabout. Straight across that one and keep to the road to Escarión. This is the LU 617. You will not miss too much of the offical route. There is no where to collect your stamps of this section. However you will find a few bars and at least one restaurant along this road.
The temps are very high now, too hot for me to work outside in the finca, plants are suffering in the heat and the rain we was promised never came.
I have only been to the bar in the hotel for coffee with friends on market day So know very little about the location. The rooms look clean and modern.Out a mater of interest how much was the night in Escarión. Which bars did you try?

* I think I have covered every term for English speaking countries.

 

[Charrito]

If you others want to walk directly to Escarión from Monforte de Lemos there is also a direct link all on a very underused road.
From the roundabout in Monforte with the Horreo on it. Walk past the filling (petrol/gas) station*. Up the road until you find another roundabout. Straight across that one and keep to the road to Escarión. This is the LU 617. You will not miss too much of the offical route. There is no where to collect your stamps of this section. However you will find a few bars and at least one restaurant along this road.
The temps are very high now, too hot for me to work outside in the finca, plants are suffering in the heat and the rain we was promised never came.
I have only been to the bar in the hotel for coffee with friends on market day So know very little about the location. The rooms look clean and modern.Out a mater of interest how much was the night in Escarión. Which bars did you try?

* I think I have covered every term for English speaking countries.

That's exactly the road I took. I would say it's 13 or 14 kms from Monforte and there ARE a couple of places to stop off.

I ate in their restaurant and had breakfast this morning. Very large and extremely modern rooms. I paid 37 euros for the room, the meal and breakfast.

In the evening I had a few wines and tapitas in O Noso Lar, El Candíl and Avenida. Excellent and cheap.

I managed to get a stamp in the Casa de Concello and the Hotel. This morning I carried on along the LU 617 for about 3.5 kms before turning left to Diomondi. No traffic, and just one short uphill stretch of around 400 meters after the cheese factory.

 

[Charrito]

Mesón Lucus in Chantada is excellent value. I had lunch there and will be back in shortly to watch the Champions League Final.

 

[peregrina2000]

That was a long uphill slog after Belesar, but I'm now in Chantada.

Stopping off in Escairón is DEFINITELY recommendable. From A Pobra it's pretty long, but not difficult. Today's stage has just been about 17 kms.

Charrito,
Where are you staying in Chantada? I was in some awful, absolutely filthy, pension in town. Up the hill off on a side street on the way out of town. I think kinky found an alternative and I hope you did too.

 

[Charrito]

Charrito,
Where are you staying in Chantada? I was in some awful, absolutely filthy, pension in town. Up the hill off on a side street on the way out of town. I think kinky found an alternative and I hope you did too.

Hotel Mogay. Not that cheap - 33 euros for peregrinos - but it's really top quality, and the shower is SO powerful!

 

[KinkyOne]

That's exactly the road I took. I would say it's 13 or 14 kms from Monforte and there ARE a couple of places to stop off.

I ate in their restaurant and had breakfast this morning. Very large and extremely modern rooms. I paid 37 euros for the room, the meal and breakfast.

In the evening I had a few wines and tapitas in O Noso Lar, El Candíl and Avenida. Excellent and cheap.

I managed to get a stamp in the Casa de Concello and the Hotel. This morning I carried on along the LU 617 for about 3.5 kms before turning left to Diomondi. No traffic, and just one short uphill stretch of around 400 metrrs after the cheese factory.

Hey, that was a real tour through bars

 

[Charrito]

Just like that old song by The Who: I Can See For Miles and Miles!!!

Monte Faro. Well worth the continuous uphill walk.

Met 3 girls from Andalucía leaving Chantada this morning. The speed they were going they'll be lucky to get to Rodeiro by midnight!

 

[Charrito]

Hey, that was a real tour through bars

Only 3!!!!

 

[Charrito]

This is getting worse!

 

[Charrito]

I'm going to follow your advice, KinkyOne, and follow the PO-533 to Lalín tomorrow. I need to give these blisters an easy time!

 

[Charrito]

Rodeiro's a bit dead on Sunday evenings!

Early night, off to Lalín bright and early. For all you foodies, Lalín is the best place for a blowout Cocido Gallego; let's see how things go tomorrow, and how my poor left foot holds up!

 

[KinkyOne]

I'm going to follow your advice, KinkyOne, and follow the PO-533 to Lalín tomorrow. I need to give these blisters an easy time!

Huh, I can't really see from the photo but it looks like too blue/purple to me!!!??? That's why I would consider walking on tarmac... Personally I'd preffer uneven surface not to put constant pressure on same spots of my soles.

Ultreia!

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Mesón Lucus in Chantada is excellent value. I had lunch there and will be back in shortly to watch the Champions League Final.

I know. It is perhaps the only restaurant to recommend in Chantada. There are some great bars, but a whole meal nothing like Lucas. It is not cheap in the evening. Midday a meal is only 7 or 8 € but a limited choice.

Hotel Mogay. Not that cheap - 33 euros for peregrinos - but it's really top quality, and the shower is SO powerful!

You are lucky to get a discount. A lot of accommodation on this route does not.

I'm going to follow your advice, KinkyOne, and follow the PO-533 to Lalín tomorrow. I need to give these blisters an easy time!

Horrible; fair bit of traffic but reasonable to walk along as it has a lot of it has an extract track for farm vehicle access.

 

[Charrito]

T

I know. It is perhaps the only restaurant to recommend in Chantada. There are some great bars, but a whole meal nothing like Lucas. It is not cheap in the evening. Midday a meal is only 7 or 8 € but a limited choice.


You are lucky to get a discount. A lot of accommodation on this route does not.


Horrible; fair bit of traffic but reasonable to walk along as it has a lot of it has an extract track for farm vehicle access.

Thanks for the comments!

 

[Charrito]

A few points:

First of all, Hostal Carpinteiras is a really nice place. It IS a bit of a hike up and down from the centre of Rodeiro, though!

Following the PO-533 to Lalín is not the most exciting shortcut, but there's the old unused road running alongside all the way. For the first time since leaving Ponferrada I've seen plenty of places for refreshment. A Lacita, A Rocha at the top of a longish downhill stretch, and a lovely taberna (Tais?) at the bottom.

Lalín is massive compared to most other places so far. The Hostal Las Palmeras is cheap (20 euros with bathroom), although the rooms are a bit antiquated.

Apparently, it's going to rain this afternoon! About time!

No doubt I'll be meeting lots of other walkers tomorrow when the Invierno joins up with the Via de la Plata in A Laxe. By the way, no sign of the 3 girls I encountered on the way out of Chantada yesterday! I hope they made it up to Monte Faro!

 

[Charrito]

Don't eat Cocido Gallego if you're planning to walk any more that day!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Don't eat Cocido Gallego if you're planning to walk any more that day!View attachment 19067

And that looks like the small portion...

 

[KinkyOne]

Don't eat Cocido Gallego if you're planning to walk any more that day!View attachment 19067

Oh, come on Charrito, you very bad boy
I'm about to have my picnic dinner on the balcony of my room any time now, after my first day on Levante... And you're teasing me with such a photo, ts ts ts

 

[Charrito]

Sorry, KinkyOne, but I'm sure your picnic dinner was great!

 

[Charrito]

What a beautiful stage today, from Lalín to Bandeira.

It's been strange to see other caminantes after so many days on my own.

A wonderfully relaxing riverside walk out of Lalín, followed by a pretty boring stretch alongside the Lalín 2000 industrial estate.

After that there is a beautiful rocky descent and steep ascent to the church of Santiago in Taboada. The priest was there and gave me a lovely stamp.

Silleda has plenty of places to stop but I carried on. A few kms on tarmac, away from the national road, but some fantastic wooded stretches too.

I'm staying in the Conde Rey in Bandeira: spotless and good value for 20 euros.

I'm treating myself to the Pazo de Galegos tomorrow, the other side of Ponte Ulla. 40 euros with booking.com.

Time for a couple of wines and tapitas!

Nearly there! Buen Camino to you all.

 

[Charrito]

Got to Santiago today. The Invierno is a beautiful walk, but there are some long tough stretches and you're on your own.

Seeing the vast amount of pilgrims in Santiago makes you wonder how people can enjoy the Francés any longer.

Each to his own, I suppose, but I know where I would rather be!

Until the next time! Buen camino to you all!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Seeing the vast amount of pilgrims in Santiago makes you wonder how people can enjoy the Francés any longer.

I enjoy it by not worrying about the way it used to be! It makes me happy that so many are able to experience what I have experienced. Half the pilgrims are Spanish, and they may ask the same question you did!!

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Well done.

 

[Charrito]

Well done.

Thanks. It was hard work, but I loved this Camino.

 

[KinkyOne]

Got to Santiago today. The Invierno is a beautiful walk, but there are some long tough stretches and you're on your own.

Seeing the vast amount of pilgrims in Santiago makes you wonder how people can enjoy the Francés any longer.

Each to his own, I suppose, but I know where I would rather be!

Until the next time! Buen camino to you all!

Ditto!
And BRAVO!!!

As somehow connected with this route I feel special joy that you've made it in such a spirit!

B.