Segments for Le Puy

[kmccue]

IN the middle of winter in Iowa...I am dreaming of France! I plan to spend most all of September from Le Puy to Saint Jean, but I'm flummoxed as how to divide the trip. In general I like to hike 15-17 miles a day, so I guess that's a start, but wondering if there are some great places not to miss. I like smaller towns and the Cele Valley variant appeals to me. Gronze and Via Podiensis both have different stages. Any advice from veterans? On CF and CP, I generally followed Brierly with just a few adaptations.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

IN the middle of winter in Iowa...I am dreaming of France! I plan to spend most all of September from Le Puy to Saint Jean, but I'm flummoxed as how to divide the trip. In general I like to hike 15-17 miles a day, so I guess that's a start, but wondering if there are some great places not to miss. I like smaller towns and the Cele Valley variant appeals to me. Gronze and Via Podiensis both have different stages. Any advice from veterans? On CF and CP, I generally followed Brierly with just a few adaptations.

Hi kmccue - I hiked it from Aumont-Aubrac to Cahors and did the Cele Variant last year (then went down to the Norte/Primitivo/Verde). You will love it, although it is a fairly tough hike. The Aubrac Plateau is spectacular. There should be plenty of ways to break it up into the 15 - 17 miles/day that you're thinking of. I used the Miam Miam Dodo guide in French that made it easy to break things into my own stages. I had some great lodging in the gites. Unless you speak fluently, though, I'd skip the Chambres-d'Hotes - they require an arrhes/deposit that isn't usually payable with PayPal. Sometimes they want a specifically French check, and it can get tricky.

The Cele variant was definitely worth doing (save a maniac running a roadside attraction that almost broke my iPhone for taking a picture....). I loved everything from Aumont-Aubrac to Bouzies, but could have skipped Bouzies up to Cahors (Cahors was well-worth visiting though). And I would have preferred to have missed Decazeville altogether. The convent at St. Come d'Olt was great, Espalion with well-preserved Roman churches both before and after was charming and interesting. Estaing and Golinhac also well-worth the visits. And the hospederia and the abbey at Conques may have been worth the entire trip. Marcilhac-sur-Cele was brilliant, and Cabreret (prehistoric cave paintings at Peche Merle)/Bouzies/St. Cirq LaPopie with the Chemin des Halages were great to visit as well. If you like, I've blogged the hike on notesfromahike.wordpress.com. You would have to scroll to the bottom for the start, as there are other posts on top of it. Happy dreaming there in Iowa!!

 

[TMcA]

I second what HighlandsHiker just recommended.

You will find that the Le Puy route is a nice combination of rural hiking with a succession of spectacularly beautiful small towns like Estaing, Saint-Côme-d'Olt, Conques, and others.

Conques is worth an extra half-day. Many people skip the next stage, Conques to Decazeville, and there was a small bus that transported a number of us from Conques (in front of the Bureau de Tourisme) to Decazeville in the afternoon.

I have posted earlier on the small museum in Aubrac, it's less than 100 meters off the route and worth an hour. And arrive in Aubrac hungry and visit Chez Germaine. Good food and delicious, huge (big enough for two) pastries.

Bon chemin.

Tom

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I also can recommend the post by @HighlandsHiker. I loved the Le Puy route, going as far as Moissac. I also included a day trip by train to Rocamadour, and also walked the Cele Valley Variant. I loved everything about this route in France and have great memories!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Customize your segments here:

https://godesalco.com/plan/podense

 

[Glenshiro]

You will find that the Le Puy route is a nice combination of rural hiking with a succession of spectacularly beautiful small towns like Estaing, Saint-Côme-d'Olt, Conques, and others.

Couldn't agree more. I would add Figeac, my personal favourite.

A combination of Miam Miam Dodo and Godesalco should give you all the information you need to judge stages and book accommodation. An excellent guide book is Alison Raju's The Way of St James - Le Puy to the Pyrenees.

The IGN French map website is an invaluable aid.

Have a look at the Puy route thread on this site for lots of tips. You'll need basic French and a moderate level of fitness - some stretches are tough going, but worth it. Be aware of some long climbs between Le Puy and Conques!

Decazeville (a former mining town, definitely NOT worth a detour) can be bypassed by an alternative route from Conques to Livinhac-le-Haut.

Accommodation is sparse in places and booking ahead is essential. Be prepared for many fewer companions than on the CF - on some days I hardly saw anyone!

The Célé valley variant has its fans but, for my money, the traditional way is more scenic.

Oh, and be prepared not to lose any weight - French food is very moreish.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Glen, I agree with you for the most part, but I wasn't particularly enamoured with Figeac or Cahors compared to some of the other smaller towns. When cities are larger they sometimes lose some of their charm. I absolutely loved the Cele! So very unique and my friend and I were all alone most of the time, which was a very special feeling as waymarks were good. In the month of June we had lots of French walkers early on, but it thinned out alot after Figeac where the train station can take them home.

 

[lt56ny]

I have walked this route and if you intend to do the whole route, or even if you do not just walk my friend. Whatever happens will happen and you will always see beauty. Even on the ugliest or most boring segment or plainest town something wonderful may happen. You never know!

 

[Glenshiro]

Hi Glen, I agree with you for the most part, but I wasn't particularly enamoured with Figeac or Cahors compared to some of the other smaller towns. When cities are larger they sometimes lose some of their charm. I absolutely loved the Cele! So very unique and my friend and I were all alone most of the time, which was a very special feeling as waymarks were good. In the month of June we had lots of French walkers early on, but it thinned out alot after Figeac where the train station can take them home.

Hello, Chris,
I may be slightly biased against the Célé route as I did it in pouring rain and in boots which turned out to be half a size too small! That said, I still enjoyed it. I travelled the traditional route a few years later in brilliant spring sunshine, but was still almost entirely alone for most of the time.

I have been visiting Figeac for 10 years now, even before I started walking the Puy route (it was seeing two pelerins there which partly spurred me to do so.) Although I agree that the smaller places (I especially liked Saint-Côme-d'Olt) have their own unique characters, I just like a larger choice of eateries!

 

[intrepidtraveler]

What is it about Conques-Decazeville that makes it worth missing?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

What is it about Conques-Decazeville that makes it worth missing?

I walked it from Conques and did not mind it, but after getting to D, we did take a short taxi to the next town where we had our reservation. I'mnot sure why...must of been too pooped to finish!

 

[NorthernLight]

What is it about Conques-Decazeville that makes it worth missing?

There's a pretty steep climb after Conques, but it's otherwise a pretty enough walk. I remember it being a long, long day and I was exhausted at the end. You can see the sprawl of Decazeville from the upper plateau and it looks bad, but the trail just skirts through the northern edge of the city. I spent a night in Decazeville, it's not special but it wasn't bad.

I think a lot of people bus out as they end their annual weekly installment at Conques.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Great descriprion, Northern Light. Do you remember that white chapel on the hill leaving Conques?. We were told to take the road out as the steep trail was muddy, so we did...but then later we saw a sign pointing to a side trail to see the chapel. We did and big mistake as it didn't indicate how far back downward we had to hike to see it! We lost a lot of ground on an overgrown path. It was the only time in a month I was truly annoyed with my companions as they were the ones who wanted to backtrack, not me!☺

 

[NorthernLight]

It's a sweet little chapel and has a bell rope pilgrims can ring to mark their passing. I remember one bit of the climb was so steep my short legs couldn't master and another pilgrim who caught up to me helped push my butt up and over.

There was one point after Noailac where there was a convergence of markers that confused me. It was hot and I was tired. I tossed myself down on a ditch and waited for someone to come along and pick a route.

 

[NavyBlue]

Hi,

Yes the climb to the chapel is steep, but worth it.



By the way, not the steepest part of the Le Puy, which is just after the famous Pont Valentré in Cahors (I needed to use my hands to manage one or two steps).

As said above, no reason to skip the Conques to Decazeville section, unless you intend to finish your walk in Conques.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

What is it about Conques-Decazeville that makes it worth missing?

intrepidtraveler (I remember you from your Norte posts!) - Out of Conques was strenuous (the hill to the chapel that others are mentioning), but the views were beautiful (see image to left). In Noailhac, there was a cafe that was willing to make an assiette pelerin at 11:00 - Rocamadour cheese, estofinade, farcon, and a soft lettuce salad in vinaigrette. But Decazeville had just rerouted its entrance, I got lost, the marking was really bad in town as well (lost several more times), and a guy I'd asked for directions decided to get into his car, chase me down, and yell about our political situation in the States. In addition, it's newer and charmless. One of my least favorite parts of the trip. In Livenhac-en-Haut, not far beyond, there is a very nice gite, though. If I remember from the Miam Miam Dodo, there's a way to detour around Decazeville to the north. I wish I'd taken that detour......

 

[kmccue]

So...how do I aovid Decazeville? Someone said there was another route? And where does one re-connect to the main route if yiu take the Cele Valley variant? Sorry, I just ordered Miam Miam Dodo, perhaps that will help me.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

So...how do I aovid Decazeville? Someone said there was another route? And where does one re-connect to the main route if yiu take the Cele Valley variant? Sorry, I just ordered Miam Miam Dodo, perhaps that will help me.

I wish I could help, kmccue - my Miam Miam Dodo was so marked up, pared down, and generally hard-used by the time I finished that I pitched it at the train station in Bordeaux. But there IS a detour that was clearly marked, so hopefully the most recent Miam Dodo that you ordered will include it. Some other smart person on here will likely know the exact route. Happy planning and I wish you a speedy end to your winter there! We have snow and temps in the single-digits here in PA.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

So...how do I aovid Decazeville? Someone said there was another route? And where does one re-connect to the main route if yiu take the Cele Valley variant? Sorry, I just ordered Miam Miam Dodo, perhaps that will help me.

Oh, the Cele Variant reconnects with the main Le Puy/GR-65 before Cahors, depending on which route you've taken right around Bouzies/St. Cirq-LaPopie. You can choose between the route Bouzies-Arcambal-Cahors or the more southern way out of St. Cirq-LaPopie, which reconnects with the main Le Puy/GR-65 around Bach, I think, so that southern way reconnects earlier than the Arcambal way. Don't miss the Chemin des Halages between Bouzies and St. Cirq-LaPopie - it's about 3.5K between the two and a very charming canal towpath blasted out of the rock. I went via Arcambal and can recommend a very nice stay there if you want a break from the gites, kmc. Here's a description of those two options - they both reconnect to the main route before or at Cahors:
"Going back towards Cahors, you have two options - either follow the GR 36-46. Or, continue on to Esclauzels, Concots and, Bach to regain the GR65 or take the towpath to Bouziès, Saint Gery and Vers, continuing along the Lot valley".

 

[Glenshiro]

People (including me) are probably less kind to Decazeville than it deserves. A former mining town (its opencast mine was once one of the largest in Europe, but closed in 2001) its population is now less than half its post-war high. It has yet to find a replacement industry to replace the income from coal and steel and, inevitably, looks somewhat down at heel. When I last visited, in 2013, the large town centre hotel was closed but I found accommodation without any difficulty. Its real problem is that it suffers very badly by comparison with most of the other, very picturesque, towns and villages on the GR65, and especially Conques, officially one of the most beautiful villages in France (and, according to Wikipedia, the inspiration for Belle's home village in the Disney animation Beauty and the Beast!)

I have stayed in worse places, but, if I was walking the Chemin de Compostelle again, I would bypass Decazeville and head straight for Livinhac-le-Haut. I would recommend purchasing the Institut Geographique National 1:25,000 maps for Conques and Decazeville (2338E and 2338O, obtainable in the UK from Dash4it maps, or locally in Conques.) But, then, I love maps.

And, as someone has noted elsewhere, the French seem to love nothing more than climbing up and down hills. In fact, they are very proud of their hills, and they are determined that walkers should experience as many of them as possible. A large-scale map enables the thoughtful walker to avoid the occasional pointless detour.

Follow the GR 65 out of Conques, pass through Noailhac (or bypass it on the D580) and then follow the D580 west, but carrying on past the point where the Chemin leaves the metal road near Puy de Fraysse to Agnac. Take the Route d' Agnac west to a crossroad and its junction with the D218. Carry on straight across down the Chemin des Crêtes (signposted Les Bonnieres) ignoring the D580 turn to Decazeville. Walk down to Les Estaques and then either take the D21 to the bridge over the River Lot, or the Route de St-Roch to rejoin the GR 65, and the more scenic route, to Livinhac-le-Haut.

Bon Chemin!

 

[NorthernLight]

The two options for the Conques-Livinhac stage were well marked on my old version of Miam Miam Dodo.

There was a gites in Decazeville that had truly eager-to-help hospitaleros.

I ended up taking a rest day in D. It was a good place to rest because there wasn't much to do. I visited the cathedral, sat in the square, window shopped. Talked to some civilians. Didn't see another pilgrim.

 

[kmccue]

Great descriprion, Northern Light. Do you remember that white chapel on the hill leaving Conques?. We were told to take the road out as the steep trail was muddy, so we did...but then later we saw a sign pointing to a side trail to see the chapel. We did and big mistake as it didn't indicate how far back downward we had to hike to see it! We lost a lot of ground on an overgrown path. It was the only time in a month I was truly annoyed with my companions as they were the ones who wanted to backtrack, not me!☺

Camino CHris, You said you walked to Mossaic and also did the Cele variant, exactly my plan. Did you then take the train from Mossaic? I am thinking that would take me about 21-22 days at 25 K or so a day? Agree? Would there be any amazing places I'd miss if I stopped there and didn't go on towards St. Jean?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Camino CHris, You said you walked to Mossaic and also did the Cele variant, exactly my plan. Did you then take the train from Mossaic? I am thinking that would take me about 21-22 days at 25 K or so a day? Agree? Would there be any amazing places I'd miss if I stopped there and didn't go on towards St. Jean?

We had a full 4 weeks. Flew into CDG, then had pre-purchased train tickets from the airport to LePuy. We only had one full day in Le Puy before starting to walk. We tried to average approx 20 kilometers per day as there is quote a bit of ups and downs. We did take a zero day in Figeac, but used most of it to take a train to Rocamadour and back for the day. We did arrive 2 days earlier than we needdd in Moissac, so walked another stage to Auvillar, stayed the night, then walked back to Moissac for ine more night before taking the train back to CDG.
I had read several times that the stretch between Moissac and SJPdP was less interesting, but I'm sure I would have enjoyed it if I had planned to be away from home that long.
I loved this route and so will you. If you have time to add in a couple of more days, it would be helpful. We are in our 60's and prefer to take our time. If you are much younger you may be fine with the days you have carved out.

 

[NorthernLight]

The walk after Moissac is less dramatic, but still pretty. There are old villages, lots and lots of rolling hills. The churches in this region ring the hours twice. You get a first view of the Pyrenees - which feels quite the milestone.

You pass through the heartland of the ancient Visigothic kingdom.

 

[jouffroy47]

Customize your segments here:

https://godesalco.com/plan/podense

Or here http://www.chemindecompostelle.com/Selection/CarteFrance.html

 

[jouffroy47]

If you're on Facebook, come join us on Robert Forrester's Via Podiensis FB group. There are a number of posts on the second portion of the route (Cahors-SJPP) currently under discussion as well. https://www.facebook.com/groups/ViaPodiensis/?ref=group_header

 

[jouffroy47]

So...how do I aovid Decazeville? Someone said there was another route? And where does one re-connect to the main route if yiu take the Cele Valley variant? Sorry, I just ordered Miam Miam Dodo, perhaps that will help me.

The route is sketched out the the MMDD as an unmarked route. It's pretty easy to follow and a pleasant walk. I did it in the fall of 2015. I think a portion of it was referred to as the "Chemin des crêtes."

 

[naplesdon]

I have not walked the route yet, I plan to in June and July 2019 and I have received guide notes and suggestions from a freind who walked from le Puy to Cahors last year. There is a specific guide published in 2018 by Miam Miam Dodo for the Voie du Cele (GR 651) that she gave me. The seque from the GR 65 to the GR 651 looks to be minimally "uncomplicated" after Figeac as far as finding the signs to turn onto the GR 651, and once you are on the 651 it follows the Cele and the Lot all the way to Cahors. There seem to be enough accommodations spread out along the way but I have been warned that during summer reservations are recommended. I still have not made up my mind to bail out after Cahors and take a train to Toulouse and find my way to Pamplona and join up with the CF for a few weeks.

 

[kmccue]

I have not walked the route yet, I plan to in June and July 2019 and I have received guide notes and suggestions from a freind who walked from le Puy to Cahors last year. There is a specific guide published in 2018 by Miam Miam Dodo for the Voie du Cele (GR 651) that she gave me. The seque from the GR 65 to the GR 651 looks to be minimally "uncomplicated" after Figeac as far as finding the signs to turn onto the GR 651, and once you are on the 651 it follows the Cele and the Lot all the way to Cahors. There seem to be enough accommodations spread out along the way but I have been warned that during summer reservations are recommended. I still have not made up my mind to bail out after Cahors and take a train to Toulouse and find my way to Pamplona and join up with the CF for a few weeks.

Thanks for the help. I think I just purchased it but am waiting to receive it. How many K from Figeac to Cahours?

 

[naplesdon]

the guide book is not precise but I am planning on 8 to 9 days.

 

[NorthernLight]

I still have not made up my mind to bail out after Cahors and take a train to Toulouse and find my way to Pamplona and join up with the CF for a few weeks.

Just to throw out more possibilities ... you could head south from Noailhac/Decazeville towards Albi and walk to Toulouse. Albi is a really interesting town.

 

[robertt]

Hey, go easy on Decazeville. It reminded me of several bomby old mining towns in Oz. Plus it's a rugby mecca and it has a huge department store reminiscent of an Aussie Big W. It even has feral kids hanging out the front...but they're way too smooth and polite, being French 'n all. Really, Decazeville has its atmosphere. No, really.

CONQUES TO DECAZEVILLE: SKIP ONE MILLENNIUM

Best to leave Conques in the early hours to get the big climb out of the way. Yeah, even moi. The departure is by one of those famous pilgrim bridges. Here I waved goodbye to two new Alsatian mates…

slowcamino.wordpress.com

 

[Tim Greig]

This is a beautiful pilgrimage. The gites are great but I stayed in some wonderful chambres d'hote without any hassle about booking. Cash on arrival is fine.

 

[MechEngr69]

On April 6, 2018 my friend and I started in Le Puy en Velay and hiked to Moissac (250 miles, 400km) arriving on April 24th. We stayed in gîtes, except for one night at the St. Foy Monastery in Conques.
Except for nights in larger towns, we always stayed a gîte that offered demi-pension so we'd be sure to have a hot dinner meal. We liked joining the other hikers also. We never had a problem finding a bed at a gîte, but we got the last two beds at several places. So, booking one night ahead is the best plan. We used the Miam Miam Dodo guide book. We were able to stay at a gîte that offered clothes washing and drying every 4 to 5 days, by checking the MMD guide.
Each evening we asked our French-speaking Camino friends, or our gîte owners, to make reservations for the next night, including half pension. This gives the next day's gîte time to plan the evening meal.
We had lunch in a restaurant/bar only 5 days out of 18 days hiking. The first place had only omelettes on the menu, and the second, a bar, had only pizza. The last three (St.-Côme-d'Olt, Cahors, & Montcuq) were in larger towns and had more typical French menus. We could have had lunch in other larger towns, but didn't because our arrival times were not near noon.
The countryside is interesting, but not spectacular. The landscape after Limogne-en-Quercy (our Day 14) wasn’t very scenic for a couple of days, and it was hot also, especially when climbing. Still, not unbearably hot since it was only April.
We really enjoyed the French cuisine, and hope you enjoy your hike.

 

[Kitsambler]

For planning purposes, it's helpful to recall that the French walkers concentrate on the Le Puy - Conques section. So this section does tend to have more numerous, and more frequent, lodging options (more demand -> more supply.
From Figeac onward through SJPP, the larger towns have considerable lodging/dining options; it's the in-between places where choice is sparser.
From Auvillar (first stop past Moissac) to Navarrenx (first vicinity of the Pyrenees) you have the hill towns (ie, climb the hill at day's end) that were important sites during the Hundred Years' War. Since the area surrounding these hills is flatter, the farms are larger with more industrial agriculture. Not much to interest the walker unless a confirmed through-hiker.
After Navarrenx (which has enough transit connections to serve as a possible starting-off point, giving the legs a week of exercise before the SJPP hill-climb), in addition to the mountain views, one also starts to pick up the possibility of several variants. This tends to divide the walker traffic, and so there are fewer and less frequent lodging options. On the other hand, with more local population there is more bus service availability here.
Overall, though, any day on the Le Puy Route is better than any day at the office.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Kitsambler, you always have such detailed information, advise, and sound memories to share "all things France". You were a big help, along with your blog, in helping me plan my walk on the Via Podiensis! Loved it!