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I have walked several Camino's and I cannot say that any have been disappointing. Have they all been as enjoyable, no. Each one has been different even those I have walked a second time. I believe your reason for walking has a lot to do with your outcome. Expectations, different routes and the time of year can have an impact on your personal fulfillment. I walk to be in my own head, kind of a self examination. The Camino provides the environment to do this. A place without the daily distractions of life. Therefore, I prefer to walk solitary. That said, I do find the communal aspect of sharing meals and accommodations enjoyable and have met many interesting people along the way.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
Based on your account above, I'm not sure those would be my first choice of next Caminos. Despite the weather being gorgeous, the route being lovely, and passing through historic towns, it seems a deciding factor was there being few other pilgrims. I fear that you will also find that to be the case on the VDLP, Le Puy and Via Francigena routes.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
I think the Sam Salvador is becoming more populated (with good reason!). When I walked it at the beginning of July last year it had much more of a pilgrim community than the Madrid. Not nearly as many as the Primitivo, to be sure, but there were usually at least a handful of us at the albergue each night and I think I came across one or more other pilgrims at least once every day while walking. Not like the Madrid where more often than not I was the only pilgrim in the albergue. And I heard from another pilgrim that walked the San Salvador in September that albergues were filling up.Then there are more remote unpopulated walks. The Vasco, San Salvador, Madrid, Invierno and Mozarabe. These walks you will mostly be alone.
The Camino is a "life-changing event" for some people, but NOT all, and probably not for most. For many of us - even those who return again and again - we would not call it a transformational experience, even though we love doing it.It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum
Are you sure it was this Forum? I don't see them. Generally members of this forum say that the Camino Frances would have the most amenities open in winter.I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese.
I have walked the VdlP, CP, Mozarabe, and +6 CF's. Hopefully I will walk the CF again this spring. Why?In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
I agree.Based on your account above, I'm not sure those would be my first choice of next Caminos.
Or “person”. Love that quote!I have walked the VdlP, CP, Mozarabe, and +6 CF's. Hopefully I will walk the CF again this spring. Why?
I don't know: It simply resonates with me, and for reasons many have mentioned earlier. It is always something new.:
"No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river and he's not the same man."
My first Camino was a very different experience from any others I have walked since, and from later walks on other pilgrim routes outside Spain. Mainly because so much about that first journey was totally new to me. Part of what made it special was that very novelty. Which obviously cannot be repeated. I still enjoy my walks but they have a different character and the satisfaction comes in different ways.I do think that your first Camino will forever be your best experience. Not comparable to any other Camino you will or have walked.
I'm sure you'll love the end of the Chemin d'Arles and the Aragonés, I sure did!I agree.
I had thought that I would walk the Via de la Plata this year for my 8th Camino, but after reading reports of very few pilgrims and long distances to walk I don't think that I'm ready for it this year. I don't mind either occasional long distances or occasional lack of company (up to a week or so), but after the Norte/Primitvo Caminos last year I was craving a bit more of the social aspect of the Francés and having towns so close together that it's easy to stop when I want for coffee, a snack or a bed.
So this year's plan is for a few days the Camino Arles from Oloron-Sainte-Marie, joining with the Aragonés route. Then the Francés to Ponferrada where I will decide if I want to continue on the Francés or explore the Invierno.
I agree. I liked VdlP and CP Central, (Mozarabe not so much: Lonely and cold at high altitudes in April), but they were more distant to my mind, somehow.I walked the CP coastal last year after doing the CF just before I turned 50 in 2019.
It was not as fulfilling than the CF, but a very unique experience on it's own.
Definitely. Maybe that's why I always feel special there, on the CF, and why I return and start out with joy each time. Not as the first time; different, in many ways, but nevertheless fullfilling, in a new way, each time.I do think that your first Camino will forever be your best experience. Not comparable to any other Camino you will or have walked.
It's more frequently life-changing than some might say, though the degree of change will vary greatly from one person to the next -- it could be something so simple as a decision to permanently incorporate hiking into your lifestyle, which will necessarily impact several other aspects of your life, or something as huge as a major change in your life, spiritual, religious, philosophical, professional, sentimental, anything.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Each Camino is its own thing, and sometimes it can be hard along the Way but its rewards might be more elusive or delayed or you might just not understand them yet.Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn't much like Porto either, and I had a treble dose of the suburbs, as the southern suburbia is far more extensive than the northern way out !!I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto
That sounds like paradise to me !! -- though I do enjoy the company of pilgrims and hospitaleros as well.I was often alone in hostels
Well, I'd say just stop !! Very few things in life are perfect, and that you were given that Grace of a great first Camino is the best part of all of this. Remember that, but don't try and compare anything with it, because it will never be that good again, It can't be.but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed.
Yes I agree with that assessment, from what Angus has written.From your comments it sounds as if meeting and engaging with other pilgrims was a major part of your first Camino which you missed on the second.
Yes, the lesser travelled pathways and seasons are easier for we loners ...If that is an important element for you then a midwinter Camino is not ideal. No Camino route is busy then. Not even the Frances. A winter Camino suits me because I am a solitary by nature.
Depends how you define "life-changing" -- certainly, only a very small minority will have a full-on mystical/spiritual/religious utterly life-changing Camino turning them to a good degree into a different person(*), but I'd say that some degree of life-changedness is a somewhat common outcome of a Camino walked in good spirit.The Camino is a "life-changing event" for some people, but NOT all, and probably not for most.
Well yes and no, as the Camino itself is a part of "the" experience, and to a degree it is that experience itself.The Camino just provides a setting for you to have your experience.
One never should -- but sometimes it does so anyway !!I never expect the "Camino to provide" anything more than that.
Thanks Robo - that is a good summary of all the kind and helpful comments . I do plan to volunteer when I retire and will certainly venture out again. Thanks for all the comments.I think you have your answer.
You walked the most popular route in 2018, at a fairly popular time of year.
You then walked another route in the midde of winter.
Sadly you are comparing apples with oranges.
If the social aspect is important to you:
Don't give up, that joy is out there.
- Don't walk the VdlP or another remote route. I walked it last year and loved it, but I love being alone.
- Don't walk 'off peak' season.
Just be careful to pick a route and time of year that has a good chance of providing what you seek
This, exactly.Just be careful to pick a route and time of year that has a good chance of providing what you seek
I walked the Le Puy route and loved it. You will meet not so many walkers as on the CF, but there are enough people to meet. The Le Puy route is not a camino in itself, for many it is a nice GRwalking route, they don"t have the intention to walk to Santiago. Most of the walkers are french, so the spoken language at dinnertables will be french most of the time. If you don't speak french this might be a problem. On the other hand, most places where you will be staying will serve a communal meal. ( thats why you would have to make reservations at least one day ahead)Head to Le Puy en Velay and get the magic back again. I absolutely love that route, with the Cele and Rocamadour variants.
Yes it is, despite the significant number of those walking that route with no intention of walking to Santiago.The Le Puy route is not a camino in itself
If you love the camaraderie, then I wouldn't recommend the Via de la Plata. It is often very solitary with many long stretches. Have you considered the Primitivo? I agree about timing - not very many pilgrims in the middle of winter. And yes, there's only one time for your first time. Reconsider your expectations? Every Camino is different, just as you are different every time. Buen Camino.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
If you reason that way you could say that any route more or less in the direction of Santiago is part of the Camino in the eye of the pilgrim who wants to walk to Santiago it is indeed: every meter of his walk is part of her/his camino. In a more general way it is different.Yes it is, despite the significant number of those walking that route with no intention of walking to Santiago.
Hello Angus .... G'dayIn March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
And I do say exactly that.If you reason that way you could say that any route more or less in the direction of Santiago is part of the Camino
I did the Camino in May/June 2023 and plan to go again the same time of the year in a few years but would like to just do the Frances once again. I had an early issue (knee) on the Frances and skipped a day or two walking near Logrono to stay on track (Just taxied up to keep up with friends I had met) but then walked continuous from Santo Domingo. I enjoyed that path and accomodations very much that I dont think I would want to try another route. Maybe next time wont be as good but I definitely would like to do it again whether in 3 years or 5 years from now but at least I know what issues to plan for next time and to have better equipment available. I did not start with poles and I think that may have been a help early on. Good luck. I will be chasing it again someday.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
Well this is spot on, and not just for a Camino.I'd say go where your heart tells you to go, not where you think you "should" go or what you should tick off some kind of bucket list, ect.
We did indeed Graeme - good to hear from you - I think we did have a special camino family. Glad to hear that you have walked a lot more - I will follow your footsteps Best wishes AngusHello Angus .... G'day
Wow - I'm sure we walked many days together on that 2018 Camino Francés. It was a very "social" camino, and you were well and truly at the centre of the activity (said in the kindest possible way!)
Since then I have walked the Portugués (Lisbon to SDC) in 2019 and the VdLP from Sevilla to SDC (in 2 stages) in 2022/2023. These were much more solitary and less social, but for me no less fulfilling.
I'm making plans for a shorter Camino in September this year, possibly either Primitivo or Madrid - still both probably pretty solitary in comparison to 2018!
I hope I have the pleasure of sharing the Way with you again some time. I have an indelible memory of a second breakfast of Spanish brandy in the bar at Castrojerez!
Very best wishes
Graeme
So well thought out and written! It makes me even more excited for my first Camino in September! Great insight’s…thank you so much!I have walked several Camino's and I cannot say that any have been disappointing. Have they all been as enjoyable, no. Each one has been different even those I have walked a second time. I believe your reason for walking has a lot to do with your outcome. Expectations, different routes and the time of year can have an impact on your personal fulfillment. I walk to be in my own head, kind of a self examination. The Camino provides the environment to do this. A place without the daily distractions of life. Therefore, I prefer to walk solitary. That said, I do find the communal aspect of sharing meals and accommodations enjoyable and have met many interesting people along the way.
Many people, I meet these days, on the Camino are at some transition point in their life. While they might not find exactly what they are looking for they will discover something about themselves, imo.
So my question to you would be why are you walking?
If you are looking for community, flexibility in daily length of walk and accommodations, changing environment, variety of culture and Spanish life, the CF is the best route. These are some of the reasons most recommend the CF for your first Camino. Other popular routes, I have walked are the Norte, Primitivo and even the VdlP. The Norte, well populated, beautiful Ocean/Sea views, some touristy cities, more challenging daily than Frances and less flexibility with daily distances and accommodation. The Primitivo, well populated, very rural, similar to Norte in challenging days and also less flexible in regards to distance and accommodation. VdlP, not as populated as CN, CP but still populated, very rural, infrequent distance and accommodation, some historical (Roman).
Then there are more remote unpopulated walks. The Vasco, San Salvador, Madrid, Invierno and Mozarabe. These walks you will mostly be alone. There are also a dozen or more Camino's that I have not walked.
If you are walking to be in your own head any Camino should be fine. If you are looking for community CF, CN, CP, VdlP. Flexibility, CF. Seasonality also makes a big difference in accommodation and popularity.
All of the above said, I believe the first Camino is such a unique experience for most of us that it is difficult to match.
Just keep walking and enjoy whatever each Camino provides even the blisters, cramps, rain, mud and sometimes snow.
I walked Lisbon - SdCIn March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
I suspect talking to other pilgrim, eating with them, comraderie, etc was a big part of your disappointment. I am very social and loved walking parts of the CF four times.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
Love this. So true. Even on a daily, hohum, been there, done that, neighborhood route."No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river and he's not the same man."
https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/heraclitus_107157
I promised myself over and over again I would not compare the second with the first. It was the best promise I ever made - and kept - to myself. And yes, my first was the Frances and the second was the Portuguese (from Lisbon) and both were incredibly experiences. When I walk my third I’ll make the same promise to myself.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
But the Le Puy route is a Camino in a way that other walks in the direction of Santiago that form part of people's Caminos but are not themselves identified routes are not.If you reason that way you could say that any route more or less in the direction of Santiago is part of the Camino in the eye of the pilgrim who wants to walk to Santiago it is indeed: every meter of his walk is part of her/his camino. In a more general way it is different.
Angus,
My first camino was the same SJPdP- Santiago (and Finisterre). I couldn't believe the incredible people I met, the apparent magic/luck of the camino always somehow managing to provide food, beds, warmth in Winter (before the days you could plan/check on the internet). It all worked as if there was an invisible guiding benevolent hand. There were two groups that emerged and which I walked with and were interchangeable - all a diverse mix of people of different ages, nationalities and backgrounds with so much generosity and camino love. I guess you had some of this too!
On my last night, in mid-December, I had returned from Finisterre alone - everyone I knew had already departed. I was dimly aware there were five others in the empty concrete colossus of Monte de Gozo. My head was swimming with emotions and ideas and I just sat alone in the dormitory absentmidedly looking for bits of chocolate and nuts in the bottom of my pack that would see me through to my flight the next morning. One of the older Italian guys asked me to come into the kitchen There I found a place laid for me and food and drink about to be served. It was just second nature fo these guys to include everyone, especially someone by themselves. And that's the lesson I learned. Your mission now is to go back and look out for the newcomers and offer them unconditional kindness, returning a little of the magic that was given to you. The journey where the camino gave everything to you finished in 2018, but you can still tap back into that 2018 state-of-heart, but it in a different way, which will make sense when you do it
Yes, I noticed quite a few trees, etc. were signposted with both the yellow arrow, and the red and white stripe GR symbol when I walked it. It was a bit confusing a few times because the GR signs go in both directions.Just because some people recently have also chosen to designate it as a GR route doesn't remove its centuries old status as a Camino route.
I also found the Portuguese unfriendly on my last visit in 2023. A change from earlier visits."I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances"
I quite disagree. A Camino is any one pilgrim's itinerary towards a Sanctuary, and in this case towards the Tomb of the Apostle.But the Le Puy route is a Camino in a way that other walks in the direction of Santiago that form part of people's Caminos but are not themselves identified routes are not.
I think you have identified some of the elements of a camino that you enjoy - camaraderie possibly being an integral component. I would think ‘busier’ routes might suit you better. So the Le Puy could be a good ‘fit’, especially if you can speak a little French. The VF is not flush with pilgrims (except for the Tuscany section) and I suspect the VdlP is quiet. The Le Puy has lots to commend it, amazing villages and towns and lots of pilgrim connection if you stay in gites.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
I had a similar experience this past summer. We walked for 5 weeks from Ferrol to SdC, to Finisterre to Muxia, and back to SdC.I did Camino Francis summer 2019 when I turned 50 and did the Portuguese route this past summer. I had some of the same feelings with the second camino on the Portuguese route. I did enjoy the Portuguese route and was glad I did it, but with this second time around it was like the "magic" of the camino wasn't there - I don't know how else to explain it.
Like you I am planning another - I was thinking about the doing the English route in a few years.
I just finished the Portuguese route in October, after doing the Frances in 2017, and I felt the same way!!! I'm trying to decide if I would feel the same way doing some of the other non-Frances routes.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
I’m finding this rather disturbing! With as much money as pilgrims contribute to the local economies one would think they would be welcomed with open arms. We are planning our first Camino from Porto along the coast this September. I’m beginning to second guess our decision to walk through Portugal. We chose this path for a number of reasons, the primary one being our ages. I’ll be 77 when we start, my wife will be 75.I also found the Portuguese unfriendly on my last visit in 2023. A change from earlier visits.
I noticed no difference between the two countries while interacting with the locals.I also found the Portuguese unfriendly on my last visit in 2023. A change from earlier visits.
I’m finding this rather disturbing! With as much money as pilgrims contribute to the local economies one would think they would be welcomed with open arms.
I have walked for many years, also other routes like CP, VdlP, Mozarabe. I always return to CF as my comfort zone, for some reason(s).I just finished the Portuguese route in October, after doing the Frances in 2017, and I felt the same way!!! I'm trying to decide if I would feel the same way doing some of the other non-Frances routes.
It's not magic, it's not medicine, not something you can come back and top-up or revisit.
This statement bothers me, but I realize that it might just be careless wording. It is suggesting that the money we spend is the overriding factor in how we are treated, and that the Portuguese people should fake their reactions to visitors, based on that. Or, that paying our way into their villages means they owe us something.With as much money as pilgrims contribute to the local economies one would think they would be welcomed with open arms.
I think that you overestimate how much money pilgrims contribute as part of the overall economy.I’m finding this rather disturbing! With as much money as pilgrims contribute to the local economies one would think they would be welcomed with open arms
I was going to mention this too. The concept of what is polite or not varies from one place to another. English speakers (possibly other nationalities too, but I'm more familiar with the English-speaking countries) put a lot of emphasis on saying "please" and "thank you". Adding a lot of pleases and thank yous does not make you sound more polite. If you don't start with a greeting, it doesn't matter how many times you say please or thank you. You've been rude already.
This is something I have struggled with. When concentrating on how I will formulate a question or request in Spanish, I may jump into it too quickly. I will be patient and polite, but might miss the greeting part. (My tendency is to get to business and not waste the proprietor's time with my small talk.) I need to remind myself of the need for a solid greeting, every time I enter a store.If you don't start with a greeting, it doesn't matter how many times you say please or thank you. You've been rude already.
I’m sorry my statement bothers you! You clearly have never owned a retail business have you? As I stated we had over 10 times the number of tourists as all the Caminos’ combined. That was through a single town of 7000. I totally understand the simple economics of tourism. Portugal relies heavily on the 40+ billion euros generated by tourism. We owned a retail business for over 18 years and of course we ran into rude people on a daily basis, however we treated each one as if they were the most important person we met that day. I would expect nothing less from any merchant I chose to do business with. We have traveled all over the world and generally speaking the people we’ve met have been wonderful. I don’t expect that the Portuguese will be any different. We will treat each one as if they are the most important person we met that day because that’s just the way we rollI haven't spent much time in Portugal, but have overwhelmingly heard that the Portuguese people are very welcoming. However, they are humans and some people will have variable (i.e. less welcoming) experiences, and report their dissatisfaction on the internet.
This statement bothers me, but I realize that it might just be careless wording. It is suggesting that the money we spend is the overriding factor in how we are treated, and that the Portuguese people should fake their reactions to visitors, based on that. Or, that paying our way into their villages means they owe us something.
By far the most common reception seems to be great courtesy, kindness and respect. That's the most we should expect, as they should also expect it from us.
No, I haven't. What you describe sounds perfect, and is consistent with our attitudes in North America. I genuinely appreciate it. However, I just wanted to point out that the same business model and philosophy ("the customer is always right") are not quite so firmly embraced in all countries.You clearly have never owned a retail business have you?
Two things make for a more wholesome camino and that's sun and people. Good that you realised spring and autumn are better times to walk. As others have mentioned, a winter camino is a more solitary experience, really it's what you're hoping to gain from your pilgrimage experience.. The month Frances route ticks all the boxes of physical, mental, emotional, spiritual as you pass the stages, takes quite a bit of walking and some level of challenge to feel accomplished.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
I like that descriptionI know I already said the camino isn't magic. But compared to the other routes, the Camino Frances has that certain juju you don't find anywhere else. I think it's just all those centuries of pilgrims, and all that infrastructure, both physical and cultural, centered on pilgrimage. It's a pathway custom-made for personal transformation.
You are not considering the Norte? Why not? It’s lovely and parallels the Francés. I found good housing, great food (mostly) in villages and cities, and the ocean views spectacular, also some great swimming. Switched to the Primitivo at Gihon/Oviedo for the mountain passes. I traveled in August/September/October. Good sunny days, not a lot of rain, peach harvest, olive oil tasting. Also good company and housing. I’m hesitant to go a second time also, for my first experience was amazing, if occasionally painful. I’m also closing on 70, so truly not the same person I was then. That Camino was due to a tragedy in my family and helped me separate and regain my balance. it’s been 5+ years. If I go again it will be because I loved Spain and the people. This time I would have better Spanish, hopefully. I’m thinking Invierno/Salvador or last half of the Norte and Camino do Mar/Ingles combo. Again in late summer when it’s easiest to get away for me.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
Point well taken, thank you for your insights!No, I haven't. What you describe sounds perfect, and is consistent with our attitudes in North America. I genuinely appreciate it. However, I just wanted to point out that the same business model and philosophy ("the customer is always right") are not quite so firmly embraced in all countries.
Understanding that might help visitors accept some differences in how they are received.
The Primitivo was like that for me. We walk on holy ground. A young 4th generation stone mason in Santiago once told me that they cut the stones by feeling each individual stone and also that one can feel the the passage/stream of Peregrinos over time in the stones in Santiago streets as you walk them, listen.But compared to the other routes, the Camino Frances has that certain juju you don't find anywhere else. I think it's just all those centuries of pilgrims, and all that infrastructure, both physical and cultural, centered on pilgrimage. It's a pathway custom-made for personal transformation.
I walked my first Camino - the Camino Frances - at a time when numbers walking were a tiny fraction of those today. I could and did go several days without even seeing another pilgrim. When I returned home a friend asked me if I had been lonely. For a few seconds I couldn't understand the question. The thought had never once crossed my mind. The sense of continuity and walking alongside pilgrims of previous generations was almost palpable at times.I know I already said the camino isn't magic. But compared to the other routes, the Camino Frances has that certain juju you don't find anywhere else. I think it's just all those centuries of pilgrims, and all that infrastructure, both physical and cultural, centered on pilgrimage. It's a pathway custom-made for personal transformation.
I had walked the first half of the Norte and turned on to the Primitivo in 2016 and loved both. I always had it in my mind that I wanted to complete the Norte and it gnawed at me from time to time. I finally finished the Norte last spring and it felt very satisfying to complete it.I’m thinking Invierno/Salvador or last half of the Norte and Camino do Mar/Ingles combo.
Well, that's not the purpose of the majority of Catholics on their more typical pilgrimages, parochial or diocesan -- whether they may be local pilgrimages or longer coach, train, or airborne pilgrimages to more distant Sanctuaries or the Holy Land and so on, and even in some traditions of group pilgrimages, such as the Portuguese village foot pilgrimages to Fátima, wherein some dozens of villagers make a primarily festive pilgrimage to the Sanctuary, and the similar family pilgrimages.Transformation is what makes a pilgrimage a pilgrimage. You bring your old self to a new place, and let the experience bend you into a wonderful new shape.
And despite the above, this is nowadays somehow particularly true of the Way of Saint James by foot, somewhat differently to the other major Christian pilgrimages which also can be made as foot pilgrimages (though I understand that the foot pilgrimage to Jerusalem & the Holy Land may have some similarities to the Camino in this respect).That's why for so many, for so long, a pilgrimage is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, overwhelming and unique. You have to walk to whole way home again to really digest what's happened to you!
Well, except to the extent where a pilgrim could after some years find him or her -self in the need of some manner of healing or other benefit that a repeat Camino might help with. Even something as simple as the benefits of a good, long-distance hike !!And IMHO, that's why caminos don't lend themselves to repeat performances. You're supposed to get to the end, and then take your new self out and make your world better with it. It's not magic, it's not medicine, not something you can come back and top-up or revisit.
And that's wonderful !!Lots of people do lots of things on the caminos, but you were one of the blessed ones who was transformed!
As I understand it, the Portuguese Coastal route is not as historic as the Central route, thus it doesn't have the long history and tradition with pilgrims. And coastal communities focus more on traditional tourists. This post from @Rebekah Scott explains why pilgrims find the Francés more welcoming.Angus, I cannot believe what you posted, I had to immediately scroll to the top to see who had posted it! Because, I wondered if I had posted it.
I have hiked 7 Caminos, the Portuguese Coastal sounded brilliant and came well recommended by previous pilgrims that I had met. So Sept 2023 I started from Porto. My feelings are exactly as yours, I really didn't enjoy it at all, boring is an understatement. I also found the odd Portuguese person, although rare, a bit rude.
Things changed when I jumped onto the sand off the little motor boat when traveling from Portugal into Spain. From Theron everything was good again. I continued to Santiago then went and did the Ingles before going home.
I decided 7 caminos is enough and won't bother again. However, a few months later I've got the itch again and am looking at either walking from Seville or doing the Norte.
As a matter of interest my most favourite Camino was the Primitivo, well ahead of the others.
I know I already said the camino isn't magic. But compared to the other routes, the Camino Frances has that certain juju you don't find anywhere else. I think it's just all those centuries of pilgrims, and all that infrastructure, both physical and cultural, centered on pilgrimage. It's a pathway custom-made for personal transformation.
But the amount spent by pilgrims is a tiny drop in the bucket.Portugal relies heavily on the 40+ billion euros generated by tourism.
I am doing the Norte from San Sebastian in April this year. I've done the Portugal Camino in 3 stages, the last 150ks of the French Camino and walked from SdC to Finesterre. Is the Norte very different to any of what I've done before? Are the villages close or is it a little isolated in that way? Any tips would be helpful. Many thanks.You are not considering the Norte? Why not? It’s lovely and parallels the Francés. I found good housing, great food (mostly) in villages and cities, and the ocean views spectacular, also some great swimming. Switched to the Primitivo at Gihon/Oviedo for the mountain passes. I traveled in August/September/October. Good sunny days, not a lot of rain, peach harvest, olive oil tasting. Also good company and housing. I’m hesitant to go a second time also, for my first experience was amazing, if occasionally painful. I’m also closing on 70, so truly not the same person I was then. That Camino was due to a tragedy in my family and helped me separate and regain my balance. it’s been 5+ years. If I go again it will be because I loved Spain and the people. This time I would have better Spanish, hopefully. I’m thinking Invierno/Salvador or last half of the Norte and Camino do Mar/Ingles combo. Again in late summer when it’s easiest to get away for me.
The section Viana do Castelo > Caminha > Valença is probably traditional enough, but further south, local pilgrims from that coast will certainly have either gone on maritime pilgrimages from their fishing villages, else turned inland from their villages towards the Central. The coastal roads generally are mostly modern ones, and there would have been no route like the Coastal to follow in the southern portions of it -- but the sierras north of Viana do Castelo and Âncora require such roads around them.As I understand it, the Portuguese Coastal route is not as historic as the Central route, thus it doesn't have the long history and tradition with pilgrims.
The villages on the Norte are not isolated. They are part of a popular tourist destination - the Northern Coast of Spain with well known cities such as San Sebastián, Bilbao, and Santander.Are the villages close or is it a little isolated in that way?
That is totally not my experience, the majority of people I met walked for the joy of walking for a longer time and meeting with people from all background, religions and countries. That walking for a number of weeks has a transformational or spiritual effect is clear but that is not per se connected with a camino de Santiago ( It goes without saying that I understand that for many (the walk to)Santiago has a deepfelt relgious/ spiritual meaning.Except that it's both magic and medicine - and yes you can top up and revisit. ; ) Interesting to me that the vast majority of pilgrims i've met these past few years (on camino, not on forums) have described their caminos as affectve and transformative. That's hundred of people, from all backgrounds, each with widely varying reasons for taking this long walk, I don't think it's the lucky few at all. In fact i would say they are the majority - you're just not seeing them on the forum. ; )
You say that pilgrims contribute a lot of money to the local economy I don't know in how far that is true. Many pilgrims travel with a small budget sleep in albergues, don't buy souvenirs or luxury stuff they have to carry in their backpack ( except perhaps in Santiago.I’m finding this rather disturbing! With as much money as pilgrims contribute to the local economies one would think they would be welcomed with open arms. We are planning our first Camino from Porto along the coast this September. I’m beginning to second guess our decision to walk through Portugal. We chose this path for a number of reasons, the primary one being our ages. I’ll be 77 when we start, my wife will be 75.
I totally get that tourists get a little old. We came from a town of 7000 people that saw 4 million tourists a year, but we always tried to treat everyone the way we’d like to be treated with kindness and respect.
I’d love to hear others opinions about the Portuguese Camino’s.
I guess that was what I was after Ian - a bit of empathy! Thanks. I wont do Portugal again and go in Spring as its all about the joy of the Camino.Angus, I cannot believe what you posted, I had to immediately scroll to the top to see who had posted it! Because, I wondered if I had posted it.
I have hiked 7 Caminos, the Portuguese Coastal sounded brilliant and came well recommended by previous pilgrims that I had met. So Sept 2023 I started from Porto. My feelings are exactly as yours, I really didn't enjoy it at all, boring is an understatement. I also found the odd Portuguese person, although rare, a bit rude.
Things changed when I jumped onto the sand off the little motor boat when traveling from Portugal into Spain. From Theron everything was good again. I continued to Santiago then went and did the Ingles before going home.
I decided 7 caminos is enough and won't bother again. However, a few months later I've got the itch again and am looking at either walking from Seville or doing the Norte.
As a matter of interest my most favourite Camino was the Primitivo, well ahead of the others.
I’m finding this rather disturbing! With as much money as pilgrims contribute to the local economies one would think they would be welcomed with open arms. We are planning our first Camino from Porto along the coast this September. I’m beginning to second guess our decision to walk through Portugal. We chose this path for a number of reasons, the primary one being our ages. I’ll be 77 when we start, my wife will be 75.
I totally get that tourists get a little old. We came from a town of 7000 people that saw 4 million tourists a year, but we always tried to treat everyone the way we’d like to be treated with kindness and respect.
I’d love to hear others opinions about the Portuguese Camino’s.
That may be the heart of the problem - what is 'the joy of the Camino'? I think that there may be many different answers to that - and that ours may be very different. I found far more joy walking the Frances last year in January than I did in peak season a few years ago.. I wont do Portugal again and go in Spring as its all about the joy of the Camino.
We've done quite a few caminos and have more planned. Of all the caminos we've walked, the Portugues from Porto was the least fulfilling, with a few notable exceptions along the way. Like you, our first day out of Porto was a spirit killer, and the second day wasn't any better. We switched to the coastal, which lifted our spirits. Walking along a coast with waves crashing, almost matching the cadence of heartbeats is somehow magical and restful at the same time. When we returned to the central route, it was a long line of walkers, most walking with teeny packs. It was our first experience in which those walking supported outnumbered the rest of us. I guess we found that dispiriting, even though we truly believe that there is no right way or wrong way to walk a camino.In March 2018 I took a month off work to celebrate my 50th and walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to SdC. It was the life-changing event that is well documented in this Forum – I returned home full of joy and positivity.
Soon after returning, I planned a second Camino for 2023, after 5 years, and decided to go at Christmas because work is so quiet then and my family were happy with that – I asked this Forum about which route would have most amenities open over Christmas and the recommendation was the Portuguese. I flew to Porto on 16th December and started out the next day arriving in SdC on Christmas day.
Curiously despite looking forward to it for 5 years when I started planning it, I had a nagging doubt that it wouldn’t be like last time, but I have returned feeling very despondent as I felt none of the Camino joy.
I didn’t enjoy the walk out of sub-urban Porto so maybe not a good start and the limited open accommodation meant that I was often alone in hostels and had a few nights in hotels. I found the Portuguese rather unfriendly in comparison with the Spanish and very little pilgrim engagement, nothing like the love & camaraderie of the Frances – I felt as if I was just on a long walk. There were few other pilgrims – I only walked with one couple and a single Dutch woman. The positives was that the weather was gorgeous and much of the route was lovely passing through some historic towns.
I won’t give up – I have bought the guides for the Via del Plata, Le Puy and Via Francigena and I will go for the full month in Spring or Autumn and stay in the hostels but I would love to hear your views and wisdom on why I am so disappointed. My son warned me against “chasing the dragon” and he was quite right!
I think I was not communicating well. Everyone's walk to Santiago de Compostela is a Camino. Their personal Camino. But outside of that personal context, some roads and paths are recognized as Camino routes and others are not. The road leading from my door when I lived in Madrid in Plaza San Vicente de Paul was certainly part of my Camino this past summer. But I wouldn't say it, in itself, is on a Camino route, outside that context. Every road can be part of someone's Camino. But if you want to say that every road is a Camino all the time then the term is meaningless, just another word for road like "street".I quite disagree. A Camino is any one pilgrim's itinerary towards a Sanctuary, and in this case towards the Tomb of the Apostle.
This notion that only certain designated routes are "Caminos" is a completely modern notion invented over the past 30 years or so, and it is not a part of what the Pilgrimage is as such.
The traditional routes (and their "official" counterparts) were and are defined by certain places along the way, including many locations that are pilgrimage destinations in their own right, but also by the fact that individual routes from people's own homes and parishes will eventually lead naturally into those routes, because of how the road networks, rivers, and bridges are structured.
We walked the Le Puy camino in September. From the start at the cathedral to where we ended in Moissac, completing an earlier camino, we found this as spiritually fulfilling and as exhilerating as what I now refer to as "the second half of the Frances," from SJPdP to Santiago, which was our first camino. We now feel we've the done the full Frances, as done the first time back in the year 950. Of course, it was a 2000 mile "out and back" in those days! But we also know that the good Bishop leading the group likely was perhaps the first to do this entire route as a supported pellerin. I'm sure he was on a donkey and had his "gear" carried on another beast of burden.I think I was not communicating well. Everyone's walk to Santiago de Compostela is a Camino. Their personal Camino. But outside of that personal context, some roads and paths are recognized as Camino routes and others are not. The road leading from my door when I lived in Madrid in Plaza San Vicente de Paul was certainly part of my Camino this past summer. But I wouldn't say it, in itself, is on a Camino route, outside that context. Every road can be part of someone's Camino. But if you want to say that every road is a Camino all the time then the term is meaningless, just another word for road like "street".
Some roads are a Camino all the time, even in those moments when no one happens to be walking them. The Camino Frances is composed of such roads. So the the Le Puy route is comprised of such roads. The history of the route makes it a Camino in the broader sense, while the road from my apartment in Madrid is a Camino in the personal sense. Both are valid.
But I was responding to someone who was saying that the Le Puy route was just a GR, with no more connection to the Caminos to Santiago than any other road in Europe. And in my opinion, that isn't the case, an opinion supported by the Codex Calixtinus. Your views may certainly differ.
When I go on a pilgrimage, I tend to see myself as a pilgrim rather than a customer. That's just me and I recognize many people walk the Camino with different views. It plays out in where I find I have the best experiences. I tend to find I have had some of my best experiences in donativo albergues, like Casa da Fernanda on the Portugues (which was donativo when I stayed there) or Grañon on the Frances, or Bendueños on the Salvador. In these places pilgrims are not seen as a customer paying for a service, but as a guest and pilgrim to whom one can offer hospitality.I’m sorry my statement bothers you! You clearly have never owned a retail business have you? As I stated we had over 10 times the number of tourists as all the Caminos’ combined. That was through a single town of 7000. I totally understand the simple economics of tourism. Portugal relies heavily on the 40+ billion euros generated by tourism. We owned a retail business for over 18 years and of course we ran into rude people on a daily basis, however we treated each one as if they were the most important person we met that day. I would expect nothing less from any merchant I chose to do business with. We have traveled all over the world and generally speaking the people we’ve met have been wonderful. I don’t expect that the Portuguese will be any different. We will treat each one as if they are the most important person we met that day because that’s just the way we roll
I thinks it’s an interesting debate. I have never worked in retail, but have been a client to a company for which we were the majority of their business and the way I was treated reflected that!When I go on a pilgrimage, I tend to see myself as a pilgrim rather than a customer. That's just me and I recognize many people walk the Camino with different views. It plays out in where I find I have the best experiences. I tend to find I have had some of my best experiences in donativo albergues, like Casa da Fernanda on the Portugues (which was donativo when I stayed there) or Grañon on the Frances, or Bendueños on the Salvador. In these places pilgrims are not seen as a customer paying for a service, but as a guest and pilgrim to whom one can offer hospitality.
Many of us see the Camino from a lens that is not retail.
No, I think there are folks having good days and folks having bad days.I tend to think there are good folks and bad folks
Both in my view! There are definitely bad people out there, and thankfully the vast majority are good ones!No, I think there are folks having good days and folks having bad days.
I was the one you quoted that said "that the Le Puy Route is not a camino in itself" ( which is not exactly the same as " just a GR) In effect it is just a question of definition, in itself with little meaning in the real world.I think I was not communicating well. Everyone's walk to Santiago de Compostela is a Camino. Their personal Camino. But outside of that personal context, some roads and paths are recognized as Camino routes and others are not. The road leading from my door when I lived in Madrid in Plaza San Vicente de Paul was certainly part of my Camino this past summer. But I wouldn't say it, in itself, is on a Camino route, outside that context. Every road can be part of someone's Camino. But if you want to say that every road is a Camino all the time then the term is meaningless, just another word for road like "street".
Some roads are a Camino all the time, even in those moments when no one happens to be walking them. The Camino Frances is composed of such roads. So the the Le Puy route is comprised of such roads. The history of the route makes it a Camino in the broader sense, while the road from my apartment in Madrid is a Camino in the personal sense. Both are valid.
But I was responding to someone who was saying that the Le Puy route was just a GR, with no more connection to the Caminos to Santiago than any other road in Europe. And in my opinion, that isn't the case, an opinion supported by the Codex Calixtinus. Your views may certainly differ.
That is totally not my experience, the majority of people I met walked for the joy of walking for a longer time and meeting with people from all background, religions and countries. That walking for a number of weeks has a transformational or spiritual effect is clear but that is not per se connected with a camino de Santiago ( It goes without saying that I understand that for many (the walk to)Santiago has a deepfelt relgious/ spiritual meaning.
It is always good to be in agreement. I reread my reaction and you are right. I misinterpreted your reaction. Thank you for clarifying this.You may have misunderstood, Antonious - we're actually in agreement ; )
It took me years to realize that my view of many Spanish villages, towns and cities was indeed a quick wiz through. And we don't move as quickly as some who do see the camino as a race to the finish line.O
I thinks it’s an interesting debate. I have never worked in retail, but have been a client to a company for which we were the majority of their business and the way I was treated reflected that!
And if you spend a lot of money at an expensive hotel, your experience will normally reflect that even in the softer aspects of customer service.
Of course on the Camino we are just wizzing through, 30 nights, 30 towns, 30 different hostels, barely touching the sides, so it is somewhat unique, and our individual financial value is fairly negligible.
I have no idea if there are any thoughts are to our collective value but I tend to think there are good folks and bad folks and that will determine how you are treated.
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