- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Frances Roncesvalles to Sahagun Oct 2016
Sahagun to SDC April 2017 Burgos to SDC April 2018
Greetings fellow forum citizens. I have just returned from Santiago and as I did in the Fall, I gave myself a little time before commenting. I walked from Roncesvalles to Sahagun in October and returned in April to finish the rest of the Camino. I arrived into Sanitago on April 25th.
I found that I quickly slipped back into the daily routines and enjoyed, once again, the experience of the people, the countryside and the beauty of Spain. As the land changed around me, as I headed towards the Atlantic, I felt rewarded by the gift of sharing with the people of the towns I walked through, the kinship of shared: pilgrim meals, sunscreen and experiences. The beauty of moving meditation and solitude.
I did understand from this forum, that there would be an influx of pilgrims walking from Sarria to Santiago.
And then I reached Sarria.
I stopped the night before just short of Sarria as I tried to avoid suggested stopping areas by various guides. So I walked past Sarria at about 9:30am and was astounded. There were people coming down sidewalks, out of alley ways and possibly even through cracks in the earth. I was immediately walking in a bubble of two hundred people. At any given turn or twist or hill top, I could see 20 or 25 people in front of and behind me. If there had of been parallel paths, there might have been 20 to 25 on either side of me. Mind you, I arrived in the area on Easter weekend. Likely not the wisest of choices But there you are.
The numbers I expected. Other things I did not. The litter that all of a sudden there seemed to be so much more of. The mileage cairns, which appear to fairly new, defaced. There appeared to be no mileage plaques left on the cairns. Pieces of the cairns were missing...how do you do that with pilgrim gear. The cairns were almost universally covered from top to bottom with graffiti. Mostly: "Harry loves Sally" and "Rock on Dude" and other noteworthy messages in languages I didn't understand. Actually my rock on dude days are behind me as well.
I saw taxis constantly patrolling the roads adjacent to the trail and several pilgrims flagging them down and going "somewhere." I saw two women get out of a taxi, collect a stamp, get back into the taxi and go "somewhere." The ultimate for me was a tour bus pulling up and exchanging people I had been walking beside with brand new fresh people. Some got on and some got off. One lady who looked as if she had just walked out of a sporting goods store walked up to me. Now you must know that at this point I was sore, bleeding from a knee where I had pitched forward at some point. As well I was sweaty and wafting about me was that peculiar odour of having washed your clothes in a sink for weeks.
She took exception of my wishing her a Buen dias. She insisted that all pilgrims were required to say Buen camino She poked me in the chest several times with a long bony finger and demanded that I say it after her. She must have been a grade school teacher somewhere. Then she got back on the bus and went "somewhere."
Please realize that I understand what I accomplished over my 780 k's and that is in no way diminished by what other people did. I just felt a little disheartened by the general feeling it generated in me over the last 100 k's as opposed to the grace,. contentment and peace I experienced previously. I finished the last 50 k's or so with my chin tucked in, my head down and heading for home. What I felt in reaching and seeing Santiago was a totally different experience and fodder for another time.
I found that I quickly slipped back into the daily routines and enjoyed, once again, the experience of the people, the countryside and the beauty of Spain. As the land changed around me, as I headed towards the Atlantic, I felt rewarded by the gift of sharing with the people of the towns I walked through, the kinship of shared: pilgrim meals, sunscreen and experiences. The beauty of moving meditation and solitude.
I did understand from this forum, that there would be an influx of pilgrims walking from Sarria to Santiago.
And then I reached Sarria.
I stopped the night before just short of Sarria as I tried to avoid suggested stopping areas by various guides. So I walked past Sarria at about 9:30am and was astounded. There were people coming down sidewalks, out of alley ways and possibly even through cracks in the earth. I was immediately walking in a bubble of two hundred people. At any given turn or twist or hill top, I could see 20 or 25 people in front of and behind me. If there had of been parallel paths, there might have been 20 to 25 on either side of me. Mind you, I arrived in the area on Easter weekend. Likely not the wisest of choices But there you are.
The numbers I expected. Other things I did not. The litter that all of a sudden there seemed to be so much more of. The mileage cairns, which appear to fairly new, defaced. There appeared to be no mileage plaques left on the cairns. Pieces of the cairns were missing...how do you do that with pilgrim gear. The cairns were almost universally covered from top to bottom with graffiti. Mostly: "Harry loves Sally" and "Rock on Dude" and other noteworthy messages in languages I didn't understand. Actually my rock on dude days are behind me as well.
I saw taxis constantly patrolling the roads adjacent to the trail and several pilgrims flagging them down and going "somewhere." I saw two women get out of a taxi, collect a stamp, get back into the taxi and go "somewhere." The ultimate for me was a tour bus pulling up and exchanging people I had been walking beside with brand new fresh people. Some got on and some got off. One lady who looked as if she had just walked out of a sporting goods store walked up to me. Now you must know that at this point I was sore, bleeding from a knee where I had pitched forward at some point. As well I was sweaty and wafting about me was that peculiar odour of having washed your clothes in a sink for weeks.
She took exception of my wishing her a Buen dias. She insisted that all pilgrims were required to say Buen camino She poked me in the chest several times with a long bony finger and demanded that I say it after her. She must have been a grade school teacher somewhere. Then she got back on the bus and went "somewhere."
Please realize that I understand what I accomplished over my 780 k's and that is in no way diminished by what other people did. I just felt a little disheartened by the general feeling it generated in me over the last 100 k's as opposed to the grace,. contentment and peace I experienced previously. I finished the last 50 k's or so with my chin tucked in, my head down and heading for home. What I felt in reaching and seeing Santiago was a totally different experience and fodder for another time.