San Salvador

[Kiwi-family]

We are due to arrive in Leon tomorrow and are leaning towards NOT spending an extra day there, but we'll see. Looks like we have the beginnings of a Salvador family - a lovely French guy we've been with for a few days now. Anyone else going to join us?
We're tentatively hoping to make the following stops (based on how we've been going this past month): La Robla - Poladura - Pajares - Pola de Lena - Oviedo (or maybe stop at Mieres if everyone is tired)

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Those are some loooong days! I trust everyone is in fine shape!

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, kiwi-family. I hope the weather treats you well, because I can't imagine any more glorious camino moments than the stretch between Buiza and Campomanes. I will look forward to reading your blog. Be well, Laurie

 

[StuartM]

Those are the same stages I did, Rachael. I'd really recommend stopping in Mieres on the last stage, it's a really long day if you do it in one hit. It actually spoiled my whole experience of the Salvador, I was so miserable on the last day I just wanted to finish, stuff myself with food in Oviedo and go home. Mieres is quite a pleasant little town, I regretted not spending the night there instead of having two nights in Oviedo (which I found quite a dull town).

Hope the maps aren't weighing you down too much

 

[Kiwi-family]

OK seven days it is then....unless we discover we've been overly ambitious....but none of the climbs come near the 1,000m elevation gain we did on the Baztan, so I hope we'll be fine. After 19 today (admittedly flat) our 8yo said, "is that really the town we're staying in? It went so fast." She could use a challenge!

 

[peregrina2000]

Those are the same stages I did, Rachael. I'd really recommend stopping in Mieres on the last stage, it's a really long day if you do it in one hit. It actually spoiled my whole experience of the Salvador, I was so miserable on the last day I just wanted to finish, stuff myself with food in Oviedo and go home. Mieres is quite a pleasant little town, I regretted not spending the night there instead of having two nights in Oviedo (which I found quite a dull town).

Hope the maps aren't weighing you down too much

Well, Stuart, I will chock up your comparison of Mieres and Oviedo to fatique-induced delusion. But to each his own, of course. My only point to Rachel would be that if Kiwi-family is a fan of pre-Romanesque churches, the palace and church up on Mt. Naranco are world class, nothing like them anywhere else. (This is probably one of my three favorite drumbeats to repeat on this forum). Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Another wonder of the Salvador, if you are really lucky, happens on the creekside path between Cabanillas and La Robla. If you walk quietly and keep a sharp eye on the water, you might spot otters down there! (I did, last spring. The only otter I have ever seen in the wild, and it was a beauty!)

 

[StuartM]

Well, Stuart, I will chock up your comparison of Mieres and Oviedo to fatique-induced delusion.

I really was jaded by the time I reached Oviedo! I'll happily admit it! In Mieres I was in the mood for good cider, food, people so it appealed. In Oviedo I was exhausted, feeling rather cynical towards the more esoteric aspects of pilgrimage (long story) and was ready for home without the 2 day wait.

I'll admit it is a beautiful city centre (suburbs are a bit ugly even by Spanish standards), it just didnt have the same magic for me that, say, Leon did.

Funny how different people can perceive things so differently!

But to each his own, of course. My only point to Rachel would be that if Kiwi-family is a fan of pre-Romanesque churches, the palace and church up on Mt. Naranco are world class, nothing like them anywhere else. (This is probably one of my three favorite drumbeats to repeat on this forum).

And there we always agree The Naranco complex is amazing, never seen anything like it. It just blew me away.

I'd add San Julian/Santuyano too. I walked round with my jaw hanging open. Breathtaking, I'll never forget seeing the frescoes for the first time.

The Camara Santa is very special too. I loved the pilgrim cemetery outside as well. The cathedral museum I found depressing, so much wealth & power built off so many awful acts. The peace and simplicity of Naranco was a real antidote to it.

Santa Catalina de Lena and the church at Ujo are lovely as well.

 

[peregrina2000]

I really was jaded by the time I reached Oviedo! I'll happily admit it! In Mieres I was in the mood for good cider, food, people so it appealed. In Oviedo I was exhausted, feeling rather cynical towards the more esoteric aspects of pilgrimage (long story) and was ready for home without the 2 day wait.

I'll admit it is a beautiful city centre (suburbs are a bit ugly even by Spanish standards), it just didnt have the same magic for me that, say, Leon did.

Funny how different people can perceive things so differently!

And there we always agree The Naranco complex is amazing, never seen anything like it. It just blew me away.

I'd add San Julian/Santuyano too. I walked round with my jaw hanging open. Breathtaking, I'll never forget seeing the frescoes for the first time.

The Camara Santa is very special too. I loved the pilgrim cemetery outside as well. The cathedral museum I found depressing, so much wealth & power built off so many awful acts. The peace and simplicity of Naranco was a real antidote to it.

Santa Catalina de Lena and the church at Ujo are lovely as well.

Well, Stuart, in spite of our differences about Oviedo and Mieres, , we should join forces to lay it on Kiwi-family so they don't miss their once in a lifetime opportunity to see pre-romanesque Asturian churches (and a palace!). I think I've been up to Naranco 7 times in my life and I am always blown away.

So, Rachel, if you're reading this, think about some time in Oviedo. You can walk up to the churches, it's a nice 3-4 km walk each way, then there's also San Julian as Stuart mentions, which is in downtown Oviedo. Frescoes are wow.

And Santa Cristina de Lena, oh it's another magical place, a short (like 100 or 200 m) detour off the Camino, but oh so worth it. Beautiful peaceful setting, incredible horseshoe arches inside, amazing carvings, great picnic spot. It's a few km beyond Campomanes. When you get there, there's a number on the door to call. The woman in charge lives near by and will come at any reasonable time if she's available, so even if it's not the posted opening times, give her a call anyway.

Ok, I haven't had a chance to babble on at great length about Asturian pre-romanesque for a while. Right now I'm working on some detours for our Camino Olvidado that will take in a lot of romanesque that looks pretty awesome, too, so I am a happy peregrina!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[amancio]

Dear Kiwi family, congrats on the great Camino you have picked, absolutely gorgeous landscapes and wildlife (and excellent food too)
Stages can be a bit long, indeed, to me, Payares-Pola de Lena seemed to be particularly long, and then Pola de Lena - Oviedo went by very easily and well, every person feels differently tired in each stage.

I wish I were in El Salvador myself!!!

 

[Kiwi-family]

First day done. To La Robla and with our backtracking to look at wildlife and faffing about and running round the bridge at La Seca (didn't see any otters Rebekah, just lost a hat - story is on the blog) the GPS tells us it ended up as 30.7km. Didn't seem so long - I think we are in good shape.
Definitely going to the churches from Oviedo - no question about it! After Eunate being closed, Leon cathedral being left for another visit, I've told the kids a day in Oviedo is a must! Stages are looking OK - although I am aware we haven't started proper climbing yet! That said, the kids have been playing on the playground next to the albergue for a couple of hours since we arrived - so they are obviously not exhausted!

 

[peregrina2000]

First day done. To La Robla and with our backtracking to look at wildlife and faffing about and running round the bridge at La Seca (didn't see any otters Rebekah, just lost a hat - story is on the blog) the GPS tells us it ended up as 30.7km. Didn't seem so long - I think we are in good shape.
Definitely going to the churches from Oviedo - no question about it! After Eunate being closed, Leon cathedral being left for another visit, I've told the kids a day in Oviedo is a must! Stages are looking OK - although I am aware we haven't started proper climbing yet! That said, the kids have been playing on the playground next to the albergue for a couple of hours since we arrived - so they are obviously not exhausted!

You're off to a great start, hoping the weather stays nice for you.

And just wondering -- did you happen to meet Ender, or does someone else also have a stash of those purple Salvador bandanas???? Great pics on the blog! Laurie

 

[Kiwi-family]

We were given the bandanas and ponchos in red plastic cases at the bar in Carbajal. He said they were from some association I didn't catch!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Just sitting here in the albergue in La Robla and the lady from the bar brought more bandanas over for everyone!! And lollipops for the kids!

 

[StuartM]

We were given the bandanas and ponchos in red plastic cases at the bar in Carbajal. He said they were from some association I didn't catch!

There is a Camino association in Carbajal, I saw them in Oviedo last year. They were having a big celebration in the cathedral square, it was some important anniversary and a HUGE group of them had walked the Salvador a day behind me. Must've been at least 20 walkers (and maybe double that meeting them in Oviedo) with big flags and banners although I don't know if they carried them all the way. I think Carbajal must have been empty apart from cats and dogs.

 

[Kiwi-family]

La Robla to Poladura......so the truth is we were wondering when on earth the mountains were actually going to start. We got to Buiza...and soon enough we had mouths wide open. It was sooooo beautiful. Weather was perfect and we just didn't know where to look! We kept stopping to take pics. We sat down so we could just take it all in.
The way marking is excellent. Looks like some arrows and splotches on rocks are very recently applied. Even without the guide, you would find it hard to get lost - but the guide is a nice insurance!
So glad to be doing the short hop to Pajares tomorrow so we can sit outside all afternoon and just LOOK!

Albergue at La Robla was fantastic - we slept in til nearly 8am which was a treat after the Frances.
Albergue at Poladura has other pilgrims grizzling about cold showers and we're wondering if there will be bedbugs - but it's nicer than some of the Baztan offerings!

 

[StuartM]

I think the walk out of Poladura up to Ender's cross was my favourite. Reminded me very much of the Scottish highlands. There is another pre-Romanesque church in Arbas tomorrow.

Dont be fooled by the short trek to Pajares. Some of it is pretty slow going. What really slowed me down was deciding on a route at Puerto de Pajares. Have you chosen yet? My preference is still the cattle field and up and over the hill.

The descent down into the valley that leads to Pajares village is short but long if you know what I mean. Just a heads up

 

[peregrina2000]

La Robla to Poladura......so the truth is we were wondering when on earth the mountains were actually going to start. We got to Buiza...and soon enough we had mouths wide open. It was sooooo beautiful. Weather was perfect and we just didn't know where to look! We kept stopping to take pics. We sat down so we could just take it all in.
The way marking is excellent. Looks like some arrows and splotches on rocks are very recently applied. Even without the guide, you would find it hard to get lost - but the guide is a nice insurance!
So glad to be doing the short hop to Pajares tomorrow so we can sit outside all afternoon and just LOOK!

Albergue at La Robla was fantastic - we slept in til nearly 8am which was a treat after the Frances.
Albergue at Poladura has other pilgrims grizzling about cold showers and we're wondering if there will be bedbugs - but it's nicer than some of the Baztan offerings!

Hi, @Kiwi-family,
I am so enjoying your stories, and your pictures bring back so many memories of my own walks on the Camino del Salvador. Next time I am going to do what you did and spend a night in Poladura -- both times I've walked from Pola de Gordon to Pajares, and I think a night in the middle would just add to the beauty of it all. Enjoy, enjoy! Looking forward to your next installment. Abrazos from Laurie

 

[Kiwi-family]

WOW what a stage. Short but steep (uphills not bad, but coming down is hideous). Three people we've been staying with each night were going to walk on to Campomanes. They were all defeated, in spite of arriving in Pajares by lunchtime. BTW, it's the most *living* small town we've come across in Spain! Well cared for and lots of people milling round even at siesta time!
Anyway, we took our time, kids played their way to Pajares and we did not arrive until 4. Again, we sat at quite a few spots and just looked (and froze!) Lots of tadpoles in various stages of development.....more info and a gazillion pictures on our blog.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Something is conspiring against us - Eunate closed, Granon closed and then some drama before we got to Santa Cristina meant we skipped it. Determined to have a day in Oviedo for the other churches! Feeling a little disappointed.

 

[Kanga]

What a beautiful and inspiring post today from Rachael. She was not the only person who wept today; from across the world her words moved me like a tsunami. Absolutely the essence of the Camino

http://charitywalking.wordpress.com/2014/06/11/10-june-pajares-to-pola-de-lena/

 

[koilife]

Reading the blog entry made me laugh in recognition for the things my son lost along the way last summer --- two European to US power adapters, a rain jacket, a sleeping bag (he confessed this only after two full days had passed). The icing on the cake was when he left his glasses on the albergue table. Thankfully, he confessed to this one early enough that it wasn't a major imposition. I sent him walking 5K back to get them. I told him to leave his backpack and just take his water bottle, and that was when he confessed that he'd left that behind with his glasses. So, I gave him mine along with a (snarky) admonition not to lose himself along the way.

I stayed at the bar drinking cafe con leche and calculating the digging times for a shallow grave using my cathole trowel . . . evidently, I'm not quite the merciful leader that Rachael is. It did prove to be a teachable moment for Kaleb. By the time we reached Santiago, we could laugh about it, and it gave Kaleb the opportunity to brag how he walked farther than me.

But, God does indeed give grace sufficient.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Pola de Lena
Just while I think of it. The last arrow is going under the underpass and then there is no marking until you are out of town. I asked tw locals for directions to albergue and both stared at me blankly then said there wasn't one. Got out the compass and headed north! Stopped at the guardia civil - they took a map off the wall to show me! Left right left right. Number of blocks in between those directions would have been helpful! After a couple of turns, a car pulled over and the guy asked if we were looking for the albergue. He told us where to go! I'm kicking myself for not retracing my steps and writing down directions.
Getting out of town ended up being intuitive. The guide gave a street name but there wasn't a sign so I asked two locals. Neither knew the street - even though it seemed to be the main road!
Then the guide directions were simply wrong. The petrol station is at the edge of town, not in another one. The 500m mentioned is more like5km!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Also, that road was supposed to be quiet but it wasn't and it's narrow and windy - fairly dangerous. It looked like there was a path beside the river (on the other side - like what we walked on yesterday) That would be worth taking if possible. Maybe cross the green bridge???? Oh yeah, the instructions said to turn left over a bridge but the river is on the right!
Finally, on the approach to Mieres, there's a bar wit a sheep sign - wonderful bocadillos filled with chicken fillet for 1euro. Then comes a Dia!