In a conversation with someone planning to walk the Lebañiego and Vadiniense this year, I found a bunch of notes that might be helpful to others. They are almost two years old, but we haven´t seen a lot of reports on this route from forum members, so I´ll throw them out here in the "for what it´s worth" category.
The only guide I had was Rebekah´s, which is essential IMO. Here are a few additional points that follow along with her guide:
Day 1 --
When you arrive in Los Llanos, take the grassy path Reb´s guide mentions, even though you may not see any markings. It will take you on 4 or 5 kms of dirt tracks, few markings, but clearly taking you to Cosgaya. In Cosgaya you once again come to the CA-185.
Leaving Camaleño, near the km 14 marker on the highway, there is a very prominent trailhead with lots of signs, markers, etc. The sign says 4 hours to Espinama, but I think that would be a very slow pace.
After about a half hour walking on this path, you will see a turn off for "Las Ilces." This is an alternative that parallels the river and will also take you into Espinama (probably more quickly, since it doesn´t detour up to Pido). But I think it takes you out of the mountains and there is no reason you will want to do that!
If you are going to stay in Espinama, the trail will take you to Pido first, and then down to Espinama. But if you are going to Fuente Dé and have no desire to stop in Espinama, you can find the trail straight from Pido that takes you up to Espinama.
Having said that, though, Espinama is the last place before the mountains of Day 2 with stores, so you will probably want to stock up there, even if it does mean a few more kms.
The route from Espinama to Fuente Dé is a 3 km walk on the side of the highway. Depending on time of day and day of week, this can be busy and unpleasant.
In Fuente Dé, check the parador for special prices. I learned that I could have stayed there for the same price I paid for staying in the Hotel Rebeco.
Day 2 -- this is the glorious mountain day. The marking has been substantially improved, but the photos and drawings on the Spanish forum were extremely helpful to me. The Senda de Remoña is the one really off-route part of the walk, it´s as close to heaven as a hike can get.
http://foroperegrinos.com/fsvr1/read.php?6,324935
In fact, if mountains is what you are after, I would consider staying put in Fuente Dé for a few days and doing some day hikes, it is beautiful country. There are lots of well-marked routes in the area.
When I walked this Camino, I hadn´t yet started carrying my trusty electric coil, so I had no way to make my own coffee in the morning. The hotel opened at 8 or 8:30, too late for me, but I took a chance and knocked on the parador´s front door. There is always someone at the desk, and she was very happy to make me a (pricey) coffee, but the caffeine was much appreciated at the start of the mountain walk.
Day 3 -- The pavement gets very tiring, but as you come to the reservoir leaving Boca de Huérgano, right after the Hermita de San Tirso, you can avoid the highway for a few kms. Continue straight ahead towards the water, and you can walk on one of several dirt roads around the reservoir´s edge. You will always be paralleling the N-621, so no problem of getting lost. It will be obvious when you have to leave the dirt and go back up to the roadside.
Another lodging option in Riaño is Hotel Presa, nice outdoor café, decent menu del día. It´s located next door to the church that was moved when the towns were flooded to construct the reservoir.
Day 4 -- In Horacadas (a LOVELY little town), the Bar Loli has beds upstairs. Call ahead. Phone 987 740 777
After you´ve ignored the "do not enter" sign (and Reb has already told you that the sign is talking to cars, NOT to pilgrims), you are on the GR-1. There is a notation that says "Senderos Históricos, Ampurias-Finisterre." (Historical trails, Ampurias to Finisterre). This sign suggests that there is a way to walk from the Greek-Roman ruins on the Mediterranean north of Barcelona in Ampuries, all the way to Finisterre. I would LOVE to find that trail!
When you com to the bridge that goes into Salas, you once again pick up Camino markers. Then the marking change again, to PR-LE-36, El Camino Real.
In Crémenes, there is a food shop, on Calle de Juan Guereño, tel. 987 711 014. If you´re going to stay in Ventasierra, this might be a good stop, because the only thing at Ventasierra is the hostal.
If you stay in the Hostal at Ventasierra, the proprietress will leave out a breakfast for you (included in the price) if you plan to leave early.
Day 5 -- Things got a little confusing walking through the old abandoned mine. If you come to the river, you have gone too far. Near what looks like an old loading dock, look for the millrace Reb´s guide describes. To access the water channel, you must go through a heavy gate with a private property sign (ignore that sign and go through.) You will pass picnic tables. Remain on that path until you come to a building that looks like some sort of electricity generator. It has a sign on it that says CH Pena Corcida. After you pass that building, you emerge on the shoulder of the national highway. Follow the yellow signs at the roundabout to the left under the highway, continue up the short slip road to the highway and then turn right past km marker 144. Continue across the bridge over the Rio Esla, take the first exit off the roundabout and head into Cistierna on Avenida de la Constitución.
As soon as you enter Cistierna, you will come to a bar that is next door to a "tienda de chinos." (dollar store equivalent). The owners of the store appear to also own the bar, and they serve marvelous little Asian cuisine tapas with every drink. It is a great place to sit and watch the town go about its business.
Continue on Av. Constitución till you reach the church. Turn left and go up the hill to the town hall. If the town hall is open, stop here and go to the main office, where an employee will take you to the albergue. If the town hall is closed, continue up on Calle San Guillermo until you reach the albergue on your right. Call the number on the door.
The albergue has a kitchen but no cooking facilities.
Good menú del día in the restaurant of the Hotel Moderno, on the main drag and up a flight of stairs from the street. It was the best menú del día that I had on the Vadiniense.
Day 6 -- The library in Gradefes, located in the building adjacent to the town hall, has free internet.
Day 7 -- I had to take a bus, my toes were a bloody mess, but luckily I had already visited the church of San Miguel de la Escalada, both times in the company (and the car) of Rebekah. But you would be CRAZY to miss it, that is if you like amazing visigothic structures.
Buen camino, Laurie
