Ruta de la Lana (Siguenza to Burgos) and Camino San Olav

[Bachibouzouk]

Looking for any comments/thoughts particularly from anyone who has walked these two routes recently on the practicalities of the following:

Day 1: Siguenza to Atienza (32kms) - overnight in albergue.
Day 2: Atienza to Retortillo de Soria (22kms) - overnight in albergue.
Day 3: Retortillo de Soria to Tarancuena via GR86 and ruins at Tiermes (?? kms) - overnight Casa Rural Los Arrenes.
Day 4: Tarancuena to San Esteban de Gormaz (37kms) - overnight in albergue or Hostal Moreno.
Day 5: San Esteban de Gormaz to Quintanarraya (31kms) - overnight in albergue.
Day 6: Quintanarraya to Santo Domingo de Silos via the ruins at Clunia (30kms?) - overnight in Monastery.
Day 7: Full day in Santo Domingo de Silos (to include Desfiladero de la Yecla) - second night in Monastery or at Hostal Guzman.
Day 8: Santo Domingo de Silos to Mecerreyes (24kms) - overnight in albergue.
Day 9: Mecerreyes to Burgos (35kms) - overnight in albergue.
Day 10: Burgos to Cubillo de Cesar (37kms) - overnight Casa Rural Roblejimeno.
Day 11: Cubillo de Cesar to Covarrubia (25kms) - overnight Hostal Galin or Hostal Dona Sancha.
Day 12: Walk/hitch to Lerma. Late afternoon train or bus to Madrid. Overnight in Madrid.

I'll be walking in May.

Buen Camino

Bachibouzouk

 

[alexwalker]

I can only answer for day 11 & 12, as I wrote the guide for the Camino San Olav in 2016:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/el-camino-san-olav-a-walkers-guide.518/

It is a free download. WisePilgrim has also turned it into a free app, you can download it from Appstore. I don't know about Android.

As for your day 11: It's a long walk. Many parts of this Camino is without shade. In hot weather, I would divide it into 3 days. I almost suffered a heat stroke on day 2 and had to have a few kms of transport to get to my destination.

Also because the way is a peaceful and easy walk, and the people you will meet are very thankful to the walkers that come by.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Thanks Alex

I understand your point. I have exactly 14 days (one day to get from London to Siguenza via Madrid and another one to get back to London from Madrid).

Can anyone suggest where to cut a corner and save a day? One night in Santo Domingo de Silos, perhaps? Quintanarraya to Santo Domingo de Silos via Clunia and Desfiladero de Yecla would save me a day but becomes another long one - it would appear that there there are watering holes along that stretch at least.

Your 'A Walker's Guide' is a great help. I have managed (with some assistance) to download the app.

Bachibouzouk

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Tarancueña: good casa rural, but nothing else in the village. A bar may open a few irregular hours (in summer; don't know about May). No food to buy, but the owner may cook for you.

Quintanarraya: consider continuing to Huerta de Rey instead, which is a pretty large town. Quintanarraya has nowhere to buy food and I recently heard the only bar has closed.

Burgos-Covarrubias is possible in 2 days but I think 3 days would be better. Nowhere to buy food in Cubillos del Cesar (I had problems finding food & bars on the whole stretch Burgos-Covarrubias, but it was Sunday). The owner in the casa rural may go shopping for you.

/BP

 

[peregrina2000]

Is there a reason why you want to go first to Burgos and then back to Covarrubias? Going into Burgos from Mercerreyes (on the Lana) and then turning around and going back out to Cubillo de César (on the San Olav) will have you on the same 12 km via verde between Burgos and Modubar de la Emparedada. My suggestion would be to choose to walk the Lana from Santo Domingo or to go to Covarrubias from Santo Domingo and then walk the San Olav “backwards.” This will probably give you the days you need without really cutting anything.

I am hoping to walk the Lana in a few months and had thought I would do something like this:

Santo Domingo de Silos to Covarrubias (I am going to visit the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza along the way, to make it about a 26 k day, but without the detour it’s about 16 or 17).

Covarrubias to visit the church at Quintanilla de las Viñas and then on to Modubar de San Cibrián. (33). Or you could make it shorter by stopping in Cubillos de César.

Then into Burgos (either 19 or 33, approximately) depending on where you sleep the night after Covarrubias.

Not sure I’m understanding correctly, but it does seem to me like your original plan has an unnecessary out and back. I have walked the San Olav, but not the Lana from Covarrubias, but looking at the map, it seems to me that the San Olav offers more in the way of both scenery and sights.

 

[alexwalker]

Is there a reason why you want to go first to Burgos and then back to Covarrubias? Going into Burgos from Mercerreyes (on the Lana) and then turning around and going back out to Cubillo de César (on the San Olav) will have you on the same 12 km via verde between Burgos and Modubar de la Emparedada. My suggestion would be to choose to walk the Lana from Santo Domingo or to go to Covarrubias from Santo Domingo and then walk the San Olav “backwards.” This will probably give you the days you need without really cutting anything.

I am hoping to walk the Lana in a few months and had thought I would do something like this:

Santo Domingo de Silos to Covarrubias (I am going to visit the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza along the way, to make it about a 26 k day, but without the detour it’s about 16 or 17).

Covarrubias to visit the church at Quintanilla de las Viñas and then on to Modubar de San Cibrián. (33). Or you could make it shorter by stopping in Cubillos de César.

Then into Burgos (either 19 or 33, approximately) depending on where you sleep the night after Covarrubias.

Not sure I’m understanding correctly, but it does seem to me like your original plan has an unnecessary out and back. I have walked the San Olav, but not the Lana from Covarrubias, but looking at the map, it seems to me that the San Olav offers more in the way of both scenery and sights.

Not a bad idea, but I would advice to have a map/tracking app on your phone to see if you are veering "off-track". My guide starts with Burgos, but otherwise it contains what you need re Casa rurales, markers, bars/cafes, etc.

 

[C clearly]

I agree with the questions/suggestions from @peregrina2000. Is there a reason for going to Burgos, then returning to the area and Covarrubias, and departing from Lerma? Is it important to you to follow the Camino San Olav from Burgos, instead of covering the same route going toward Burgos? If you are willing to keep walking toward Burgo, the suggestions from @peregrina2000 would use the time more efficiently.

There seem to be quite a few walking routes in and around the area of Quintanilla de las Viñas and Cubillo de César, if you are willing to use GPS/KML tracks, as @alexwalker suggest, but the accommodation might be harder to find for a single pilgrim and single night. Do you know if Cas Rural Roblejimeno will take individual pilgrims for one night? (Many casas seem to prefer renting the whole house for multiple nights.)

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Do you know if Cas Rural Roblejimeno will take individual pilgrims for one night? (Many casas seem to prefer renting the whole house for multiple nights.)

I stayed there alone in 2019.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Peregrina2000 - only that I'm a bit of a completist and was looking to do the Ruta de la Lana right up to Burgos. That would have left me with a couple of extra days. I hadn't considered the Camino San Olav until fairly recently when I opened up a map for inspiration as to how to fill those two extra days. At which point I thought I might walk the San Olav in the right direction. But in truth, I have got myself lost on the La Lana on more than one occasion and done several off-piste visits along the way, so I'm only kidding myself about being a completist.

Your idea of avoiding the duplication is of course a sound one. I hadn't appreciated that the last 14kms of the La Lana/first 14kms of the San Olav are along the very same route.

Am now thinking along the lines of turning around at Modubar de la Emparedada and heading to Covarubbias backwards on the San Olav. Am also assuming (and from memory) that the way in and therefore the way out of Burgos are not the most exciting. So:

Day 9: Mecerreyes - Modubar de la Empareda - Modubar de San Cibrian (31kms)
Day 10: San Cibrian - Mambrillas de Lara (27.5kms)
Day 11: Mambrillas de Lara - Covarubbias (14kms)

This seems to have given me an extra day!!!

Or I might just walk the San Olav backward from Covarubbias to Burgos over three days.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Quintanarraya: consider continuing to Huerta de Rey instead, which is a pretty large town. Quintanarraya has nowhere to buy food and I recently heard the only bar has closed.

/BP

Am hoping to get out to Clunia. Going on to Huerta de Rey that same day would make it quite some schlep.

 

[C clearly]

I don't know if this will help or hinder you, but here is an image of some of the options found on Wikiloc. I am not sure which ones are strictly the Camino San Olav, and which ones are merely routes that people have walked.

The regular Camino de la Lana is the dark blue line up the left side, and Modubar de la Empareda is at the top left, but not marked.

Am hoping to get out to Clunia

Just a reminder that it is closed on Mondays.

 

[alexwalker]

Do you know if Cas Rural Roblejimeno will take individual pilgrims for one night? (Many casas seem to prefer renting the whole house for multiple nights.)

I had no problems reserving beds for myself on San Olav. There are no albergues on this route, only Casa rurales, and i got myself rooms with proper baths. Since there are no tiendas, it is necessary to book ahead, so that food (dinner etc.) can be purchased/prepared (shopping by the hosts in places with tiendas). I could also discuss what kind of food I would like to have I paid ca. 35 Euros + food 15 Euros. Last night I stayed in Mambrillas de Lara, at the Casa Rural Rincon de Alfoz, c/o Ana Garcia Alonso phone no. 655 845 118. Incredibly friendly hostess and husband.

An example of kind people.; Next morning I was waiting for Ana, who had said she would prepare lunch for me to have during my last day's walk. But she didn't show up, so I started walking up a mountain. When I arrived at the top, she and her husband was waiting for me up there, with food and water! They had arrived late, and decided to walk up on an off-Camino shortcut, in the hope of finding me!

Big hugs were shared, and I continued, well fed, to Covarubbias.

 

[alexwalker]

Do you know if Cas Rural Roblejimeno will take individual pilgrims for one night? (Many casas seem to prefer renting the whole house for multiple nights.)

The hostess there is a very nice, talkative... woman. No English, but we had a nice, shared meal and conversation. Great room.

In Mambrillas de Lara, I was taken by Ana's husband (the mayor in the village) and their son for an evening of wine and brandy in the local bar after dinner. Ana was of course... doing the dishes in la casa... It was like being a family member in their house.

 

[peregrina2000]

I do know that you have to be careful with weekends in some casas rurales. For instance, the Vaquería outside Cuenca is happy to have pilgrims and rent single rooms, but told me that on weekends that’s nearly impossible since they do a whole house rental too.

The owner of the CR in Cubillo del César had told me pre-covid that I needn’t worry, because if the Casa Rural was full, she had an extra bedroom in her house. But then came Covid, and I never walked the Lana. I will write to her and see what the story is now. Hopefully I will be there this spring as well!

When @VNwalking walked the San Olav, Ana’s house was full, but Ana found something for VN not too far away. Maybe she will pop onto this thread and remind us how it went.

One other tidbit, there is a very nice Casa Rural in Modúbar de San Cibrián (not whole house rental, just rooms), where Reb and I stayed when we walked the San Olav ”backwards” a few years ago. I have been in touch with the señora, Mauri, and she told me that sometimes during the week there are obreros staying there (workers who come for a specific project, usually a big piece of infrastructure, like building a railway line, dismantling a coal plant, etc). So anyone wanting to stay there should be in touch ahead of time.

 

[alexwalker]

One other tidbit, there is a very nice Casa Rural in Modúbar de San Cibrián (not whole house rental, just rooms), where Reb and I stayed when we walked the San Olav ”backwards” a few years ago.

Another tidbit: When I walked the San Olav I kept writing recordings as well as photos the whole way, because (as a Norwegian), i was intending on writing the first guide for it.

I returned from Covarubbias to Burgos by bus, and walked to Moratinos, stayed at @Rebekah Scott 's place for the night, and she let me use her PC to write my San Olav guide during the evening/night.

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 6: Quintanarraya to Santo Domingo de Silos via the ruins at Clunia (30kms?) - overnight in Monastery.

I’ve been thinking about these stages, too, and one thing that jumps out at me is that the ruins in Clunia do not open till 10 am. As it is only 3-4 km from Quintanarraya, that would make for kind of a late day.

Are you planning to detour off to walk through the gorge into Santo Domingo (turnoff at Peñacoba, I believe). If so, that would add a few more kms, I think.

I know you’re trying to reduce your days, so these comments are probably not too hepful!

I think I will probably take a very short day from Quintanarraya to the ruins and then sleep in Huerta del Rey. The next day would be short enough to walk through the gorge and still have plenty of time to enjoy Santo Domingo.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Peregrina2000 - thanks for the heads-up on opening times at Clunia.

Is what you call 'the gorge' the Desfiladero de la Yecla? Am assuming it is. I had thought to do that on my second day in Santo Domingo de Silos but your suggestion above is giving me plenty of food for thought.

My planning at the moment is little more than thinking aloud, so I very much appreciate all contributions - and yours seem to be especially well thought through. Thanks.

My latest idea (see #9 above) seems to have 'magically' conjured up an extra day. I like your idea of Quintanarraya - Clunia - Huerta de Rey (short day and a bit of a lie-in before the 10:00 opening time at Clunia).

So:
Day 6: Quintanarraya - Clunia - Huerta de Rey (10-15kms?) - overnight in Hostal Casa Rural La Tejera.
Day 7: Huerta de Rey - Desfiladero de la Yecla - Santo Domingo de Silos (20kms?) - p.m. and overnight in Monastery.
Day 8: a.m. in Santo Domingo de Silos to Mecerreyes (24 kms) - overnight in albergue.
Day 9: Mecerreyes - Modubar de Emperrada - Modubar de San Cibrian (31kms) - overnight at Casa Rural la Cerca.
Day 10: Modubar de Cibrian to Mambrillas de Lara (28 kms) - overnight at Casa Rural Rincon de Alfoz.
Day 11: Mambrillas de Lara to Covarrubias (14kms) - overnight Hotel Dona Sancha.
Day 12: walk/hitch to Lerma and bus/train to Madrid - overnight in Madrid.

I get most of the afternoon and the next morning in Santo Domingo de Silos (rather than two nights but that's OK).
I get to 'complete' just about all the Ruta de la Lana and walk most of the San Olav in the right direction (but miss out on Burgos but that's OK too - I've been to Burgos previously).

Or:
Day 6: Quintanarraya - Clunia - Huerta de Rey (10-15kms?) - overnight in Hostal Casa Rural La Tejera.
Day 7: Huerta de Rey - Desfiladero de la Yecla - Santo Domingo de Silos (20kms?) - p.m. and overnight in Monastery.
Day 8: a.m. in Santo Domingo de Silos to Covarrubias (17kms) - overnight Hotel Dona Sancha.
Day 9: Covarrubias to Mambrillas de Lara (14kms) - overnight Casa Rincon de Alfoz.
Day 10: Mambrillas de Lara to Modular De San Cibrian (28 kms) - overnight at Casa Rural La Cerca.
Day 11: Modular de San Cibrian to Burgos (20kms) - overnight albergue.
Day 12: Bus/train to Madrid - overnight in Madrid.

In either case I don't think I can factor in a visit to Monasterio de San Pedro de Arlanza on Day 8 (a Monday - Monasterio also closed on Tuesdays), which is a great shame. The Monasterio looks stunning in photos. It would appear that there is a vantage point looking down over the monastery, so I may head out out there just for the walk and the view.

Buen Camino

Bachibouzouk

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Bachibouzouk

Is what you call 'the gorge' the Desfiladero de la Yecla? Am assuming it is.

—Yes, I am referring to the Desfiladero de la Yecla. I don’t know if you use wikiloc, but this circle route shows that the distance from the turnoff from the Lana at Peñacoba to Santo Domingo is about 8 km, while the route straight into Santo Domingo from that point is about 4.5 kms. The wikiloc track shows lots of pictures, too, in case you wanted to get an idea about what’s involved.

Day 10: Modubar de Cibrian to Mambrillas de Lara (28 kms) - overnight at Casa Rural Rincon de Alfoz.

I assume you’ve seen the references to the visigothic church at Quintanilla de las Viñas. IMHO, a visit to the interior is a 5-star idea. I think it’s less than a km from the town, but you have to go out and back if I remember right. It may be problematic for you because it’s another one that’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Day 9: Covarrubias to Mambrillas de Lara (14kms) - overnight Casa Rincon de Alfoz.

Just throwing out another option, which would avoid going out to the Ermita of San Olav. You can go straight from Covarrubias to the church at Quintanilla and then on to either Cubilo de César (about 16 from Covarrubias via the church) or Modúbar de San Ciprián (about 33 from Covarrubias via the church). I am not trying to discourage you, and you may really want to visit this church, but it was not my cup of tea and I would not make an effort to walk there again. You can see the route direct from Covarrubias to the church here. At the church you would be back on the San Olav and can continue to either of those two places I mentioned above.

Lots of choices!

 

[Bachibouzouk]

—Yes, I am referring to the Desfiladero de la Yecla. I don’t know if you use wikiloc, but this circle route shows that the distance from the turnoff from the Lana at Peñacoba to Santo Domingo is about 8 km, while the route straight into Santo Domingo from that point is about 4.5 kms. The wikiloc track shows lots of pictures, too, in case you wanted to get an idea about what’s involved.

Had planned to do the full loop on my second day in Santo Domingo de Silos but will probably now do half the loop into SDdS.

I assume you’ve seen the references to the visigothic church at Quintanilla de las Viñas. IMHO, a visit to the interior is a 5-star idea. I think it’s less than a km from the town, but you have to go out and back if I remember right. It may be problematic for you because it’s another one that’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Should be OK if I do Option 1 above (doubling back to Covarrubias from Modubar de Emperrada).

Just throwing out another option, which would avoid going out to the Ermita of San Olav. You can go straight from Covarrubias to the church at Quintanilla and then on to either Cubilo de César (about 16 from Covarrubias via the church) or Modúbar de San Ciprián (about 33 from Covarrubias via the church). I am not trying to discourage you, and you may really want to visit this church, but it was not my cup of tea and I would not make an effort to walk there again. You can see the route direct from Covarrubias to the church here. At the church you would be back on the San Olav and can continue to either of those two places I mentioned above.

Lots of choices!

Hoping to get to the Ermita of San Olav. I have only seen photos but it looks interesting and worth a peek.

Bachibouzouk

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I have only seen photos but it looks interesting

It is a sight to behold... A slate quarry mixed with a recycling bin

 

[peregrina2000]

It is a sight to behold... A slate quarry mixed with a recycling bin

Ok, I was holding back, but your comment made me do it.

Which one of these images is a church and which one is an abandoned coal mine?

 

[C clearly]

This just makes me want to see it in person!

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 3: Retortillo de Soria to Tarancuena via GR86 and ruins at Tiermes (?? kms) - overnight Casa Rural Los Arrenes.

Hi, Bachibouzouk, I’ve started a different thread to ask some more specific questions about Tiermes.

I’m hoping it might catch the eye of some forum members who have visited there outside of a camino context.

Am I right that this looks to be about a 38 km day?

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Hi, Bachibouzouk, I’ve started a different thread to ask some more specific questions about Tiermes.

OK am keeping an eye on it.

Am I right that this looks to be about a 38 km day?

I hope not! I noted down from somewhere that Retortillo de Soria to Tiermes via GR86 is 16kms. I was then planning on proceeding from Tiermes back to La Ruta de la Lana at Tarancuena along the road (10kms?).

I did notice that there is a Hotel Restaurante Termes close to the site with reasonable prices: 49.00 euros (low season) and 55.00 euros (high season) for a single room for anyone wanting to break the stage up. An hour, or possibly a little more, at the site will probably suffice me. Others may want more time.

 

[peregrina2000]

HEADS UP — To make sense of this post, you will probably need a map.

I am a bit confused about GR86. My 38 kms estimate was based on the assumption that the walk went from Retortillo to Tarancueña and then on to Tiermes. But that is not what you will do, you will take the GR 86 and at Losana keep going to Tiermes. You wouldn’t get to Tarancueña until after visiting Tiermes.

Maggie and others recommend taking the GR 86 from Retortillo to Tarancueña, and that is a 16 km walk. See her tracks. But it may be that the actual GR 86 continues on to Tiermes at Losana, where Maggie turned off to go to Tarancueña.

The route that I think you are describing, Bachibouzouk, does not follow Maggie’s route at Losana (where she turns off to Taracueña) but rather you would continue on to Tiermes. That is 21 kms according to this wikiloc track.

So this means that the route from Losana to Tarancueña would not be walked by those going straight from Retortillo to Tiermes — not sure if that’s a big part of the gorge or not.

From Tiermes to Tarancueña is 11 km on googlemaps, on an untraveled road. I cannot find a good wikiloc walking route. But that puts the total at 33, not 38!

The absolutelly most relaxing way to do this might be

1. Retortillo - Losana - Tiermes (21). Night in hotel in Tiermes

2. Tiermes - Taracueña (either directly or backtracking on the GR 86 to Losana and then turning off to Taracueña).

Option one Tiermes to Losana on GR 86 (about 11) PLUS Losana to Taracueña on Maggie’s route (about 6 km).

Option two — Tiermes direct to Tarancueña (about 11 on Soria minor road).


Unfortunately for me, taking two days to get from Retortilo to Tarancueña is not likely to be in the cards. And there is no lodging after Tarancueña before San Estebán (which ihs 35 kms).

Ok, I would still love to hear from anyone who has actually visited Tiermes!

 

[C clearly]

So this means that the route from Losana to Tarancueña would not be walked by those going straight from Retortillo to Tiermes — not sure if that’s a big part of the gorge or not.

I think that the gorge is between Tarancueña and Caracena.

That is 21 kms according to this wikiloc track.

Retortillo - Losana - Tiermes (33). Night in hotel in Tiermes

Doesn't that Wikilok track show Retortillo-Losana-Tiermes as 21 km?

Thus you could do this in a leisurely way, and not miss anything, but you would need 2 extra days:

1. Retortillo de Soria - Losana - Tiermes - 21 km. Overnight in hotel
2. Tiermes back to Losana and Tarancueña - about 16 km
3. Tarancuena to San Esteban, probably with taxi assist.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I am a bit confused about GR86. My 38 kms estimate was based on the assumption that the walk went from Retortillo to Tarancueña and then on to Tiermes. But that is not what you will do, you will take the GR 86 and at Losana keep going to Tiermes. You wouldn’t get to Tarancueña until after visiting Tiermes.

At least I am not the only one confused ;-)
Retordillo to Losana and on to Tiermes is indeed what I had in mind.
Wasn't too sure (in fact have no idea) on how far the GR86 goes along that route. Only as far as Losana, it would seem.

The route that I think you are describing, Bachibouzouk, does not follow Maggie’s route at Losana (where she turns off to Taracueña) but rather you would continue on to Tiermes. That is 21 kms according to this wikiloc track.

Yes.

The absolutelly most relaxing way to do this might be

1. Retortillo - Losana - Tiermes (33). Night in hotel in Tiermes

Typo here? 21kms rather than 33kms? On the very slim chance that someone else refers back to this thread in the future!

2. Tiermes - Taracueña (either directly or backtracking on the GR 86 to Losana and then turning off to Taracueña).

Option one Tiermes to Losana on GR 86 (about 11) PLUS Losana to Taracueña on Maggie’s route (about 6 km).

Option two — Tiermes direct to Tarancueña (about 11 on Soria minor road).

Retordillo de Soria to Losana on GR86 and then onto Tiermes (21kms - I think that is now the consensus of opinion) and on to Tarancuena via the road (11kms). That would be 32kms.

But, if I hear or see that the GR86 stretch between Losana and Tarancuena is worth it, I am prepared to go back to Losana and continue to Tarancuena on the GR86. That would indeed bring us back to your initial 38kms. Like yourself I am keen 'to know the score but ready to improvise on the day'.

As a rule of thumb, 40kms per day is do-able for me, if not particularly desirable. Depends on a few variables, of course; daylight hours, weather, terrain, physical state, what's up ahead the next day, etc .... This allows for photo/coffee/beer stops and getting lost (always a very real possibility). If there are any visits along the way I subtract 5kms per hour of visit. So the 38kms option plus, say, an hour at Tiermes is just about OK. I'm also not so keen on arriving anywhere semi-deserted too early in the day.

Bachibouzouk

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I think that the gorge is between Tarancueña and Caracena.

Now you are putting a cat amongst us pigeons!

 

[peregrina2000]

Typo here? 21kms rather than 33kms? On the very slim chance that someone else refers back to this thread in the future!

Not the first or last time I mess up on distances. Thanks so much for correcting me, and I did correct my initial comment. I THINK that I was probably thinking about what the approximate day would be from Retortillo to Losana to Tiermes and then on to Tarancueña, via the road and not via the backtracking to Losana and then on to Tarancueña from there. That looks like it’s in the low 30s range total.

In any event, like you, it’s good to have these options thought through, and then when I’m walking I will make a decision. I’m hoping you will go first to figure it all out and tell me what you found! Many thanks!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Now you are putting a cat amongst us pigeons!

I haven't studied the alternatives in the area so I can barely follow the discussion... All I know is, as @C clearly points out, that the gorge (one of many?!) is between Tarancueña and Caracena, and the road between Retortillo and Tarancueña is about 8 kms.

 

[peregrina2000]

I haven't studied the alternatives in the area so I can barely follow the discussion... All I know is, as @C clearly points out, that the gorge (one of many?!) is between Tarancueña and Caracena, and the road between Retortillo and Tarancueña is about 8 kms.

BP, are you headed back to the Lana or the Requena this year?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

BP, are you headed back to the Lana or the Requena this year?

I wish...! I would walk from Valencia, as C Clearly will do, in a heartbeat. Now that I know the ropes on the Requena, I would plan my stages better.

But alas, I start from Bayonne (on June 22, I think) to walk the combo Baztán - Viejo - Invierno (yes, why not walk the Invierno a 6th time.............)

 

[VNwalking]

Hola, Bachibouzouk!
Just finding this thread now, so I'm sorry to be popping in with feedback about part of the convo you've all moved past. But here goes.

So first, I'm with Laurie and @C clearly when they ask about the backtracking after Burgos.

Or I might just walk the San Olav backward from Covarubbias to Burgos over three days.

there a reason why you want to go first to Burgos and then back to Covarrubias?

To me it makes more sense to meander after Santo Domingo de Silos and not bscktracking once you get to Burgos. This, exactly:

Or:
Day 6: Quintanarraya - Clunia - Huerta de Rey (10-15kms?) - overnight in Hostal Casa Rural La Tejera.
Day 7: Huerta de Rey - Desfiladero de la Yecla - Santo Domingo de Silos (20kms?) - p.m. and overnight in Monastery.
Day 8: a.m. in Santo Domingo de Silos to Covarrubias (17kms) - overnight Hotel Dona Sancha.
Day 9: Covarrubias to Mambrillas de Lara (14kms) - overnight Casa Rincon de Alfoz.
Day 10: Mambrillas de Lara to Modular De San Cibrian (28 kms) - overnight at Casa Rural La Cerca.
Day 11: Modular de San Cibrian to Burgos (20kms) - overnight albergue.
Day 12: Bus/train to Madrid - overnight in Madrid.

Absolutely do not miss Santa Maria de Lara. It's super special, even if it's not open and you can't get inside (my misfortune...). And it's not far off route.

I missed San Pedro de Arlanza, and wish I hadn't. It's not a huge detour from the way to Covarrubias if you take the GR82 out of SDdS, rather than the camino proper. But if it's closed, it may not be worth it.

The GR82 route is a spectacular walk, and maybe 3km longer than the Lana proper, not much. If you do a search, you should find a thread where we were talking about the route. There are definitely options.

I walked from SDdS to Mambrillas in one day: GR82 to Contrerss to the astonishingly ugly Capilla then direct from there over the hill to Mambrillas without going to Covarrubias at all.
I'm sorry to have missed it, but didn't want to add a few more kms to an already long day. My route was unintentional but so gorgeous. I think one of my top camino days ever.

You can go straight from Covarrubias to the church at Quintanilla and then on to either Cubilo de César (about 16 from Covarrubias via the church) or Modúbar de San Ciprián (about 33 from Covarrubias via the church).

Yes. If you weren't going to stay in Mambrillas, that's the way to go. You just miss the ugly chapel, is all. But if you do that, make sure to take the Left fork at the top of the hill above Covarrubias. Then when you meet the road go straight towards Quintanilla.

When @VNwalking walked the San Olav, Ana’s house was full, but Ana found something for VN not too far away. Maybe she will pop onto this thread and remind us how it went.

Yes, she was so kind. She met me at her place and handed me over to my host for the night. I believe it was at Pensión Casa Julita in Villaespasa, another pueblo nearby. He drove me there and dropped me off on the Camino again the next morning . Wonderful.

This just makes me want to see it in person!

You might turn out to like it, who knows?
But oy...ugly.

Off topic, but...

combo Baztán - Viejo - Invierno

OMG!
The Viejo-Olvidado is my dream camino, and another Invierno? Yes, please. Maybe maybe maybe this year. Pieces still need to fall into place around timing, so reality is unsure. Pretty please write about it here, ok?

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Just finding this thread now, so I'm sorry to be popping in with feedback about part of the convo you've all moved past.

No problem at all. I'm considering all submissions with the intention of making a final decision on a daily basis in situ.

I'll be walking within the following parameters: only 12 days and with a number of the 'off-piste' visits that I'd like to incorporate into my walk closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

A number of suggestions made on the Virtual Ruta de la Lana (and your walking guide) have piqued my interest, namely:

* Iglesia del Salvador at Carrabias (can't avoid a Monday visit so will have to be satisfied with an external viewing, unless I get lucky with finding a keyholder - I did in October with the church in Salmeron).
* Tiermes
* Clunia
* Desfiladero de la Yecla
* San Olav's Chapel (yep, I'd like to see it)
* Monasterio San Pedro de Arlanza (this is the one causing me difficulties re. Monday and Tuesday closing)
* Santa Maria de Quintanilla de las Vinas

I think I can work in visits to all the above, except Carrabias, but it does mean going up beyond Mecerreyes and turning back onto the San Olav at Modubar de Emperrada and making my way back down to Covarrubias. I wouldn't get to Burgos (I've been before) but I'd be able to make my way back to Madrid via Lerma (a town I haven't visited previously).

Very interested in your suggestion of Santo Domingo de Silos-Sad Hill Cemetery-Contreras-San Pedro de Arlanza (GR82?). Ironically Sad Hill Cemetery was one of the suggestions on the Virtual Ruta de la Lana that didn't interest me that much, but if it's a great walk ....

Bachibouzouk

 

[C clearly]

I'm considering all submissions with the intention of making a final decision on a daily basis in situ.

I am curious if you will be using GPS tracks en route. For me, the only way to figure out some of these areas of intersecting routes was to put many tracks onto Google Earth, and study them for efficient combinations. Then I can take some of the tracks with me on my phone, so the options will be clear (and simpler) when I need to decide.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I am curious if you will be using GPS tracks en route.

I'll be using SOMP. Instituto Geografico Nacional maps (covering the Soria and Burgos provinces), Kevin O'Brien and Alex Walker guides, Forum member recommendations and Seat Of My Pants.

 

[VNwalking]

This site is map heaven:

MapasIGME - Portal de cartografía del IGME: Cartografía del IGME

La cartografía geológica y temática del IGME constituye una plataforma de conocimiento fundamental para el desarrollo de las actividades científicas, técnicas y socioeconómicas que afectan directamente al medio físico y a los recursos del suelo y el subsuelo. Además, sirve de soporte a múltiples...

info.igme.es

Because the lanscape around Santo Domingo de Silos is so dramatic, I can't resist posting these links to these geological maps, beautiful even of you don't care a ***n about the rocks:

http://info.igme.es/cartografiadigital/datos/magna50/jpgs/d3_G50/Editado_MAGNA50_315.jpg

http://info.igme.es/cartografiadigital/datos/magna50/jpgs/d2_G50/Editado_MAGNA50_277.jpg

 

[peregrina2000]

Very interested in your suggestion of Santo Domingo de Silos-Sad Hill Cemetery-Contreras-San Pedro de Arlanza (GR82?). Ironically Sad Hill Cemetery was one of the suggestions on the Virtual Ruta de la Lana that didn't interest me that much, but if it's a great walk ....

I’ve cobbled together several wikiloc tracks to come up with a route that goes from Santo Domingo via Sad Hill to San Pedro de Arlanza and then back to Covarrubias. Total about 26 km plus the visit. It took a bit of work because there is a desfiladero along the river near San Pedro that I’ve been advised to avoid. I’ll put out the tracks here with my ideas about which part of each track to use to make the full walk (if I knew how to edit tracks, I would do that myself, but this way works too).

First this route from Santo Domingo through Sad Hill and up to the town of Contreras.

San pedro de arlanza - Santo Domingo de Silos. GDM Everest

San pedro de arlanza - Santo Domingo de Silos. GDM Everest Hiking trail in Retuerta, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Travesia desde el GDM Everest desde el monasterio San pedro de arlanza a Santo Domingo de Silos. Pasando por Sad Hill, el...

www.wikiloc.com

Then the southern part of the loop of this trail to the bridge (and then over the bridge to the monastery)

Contreras - San Pedro de Arlanza - desfiladero

Contreras - San Pedro de Arlanza - desfiladero Hiking trail in Contreras, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. La ruta es sencilla salvo un paso en el desfiladero que hay que hacerlo junto a un cable de seguridad. Muy bonito el sabinar.

www.wikiloc.com

Monastery back to Covarrubias, on the southern part of this loop

Circular Covarrubias-Retuerta-Ruinas San Pedro de Arlanza

Circular Covarrubias-Retuerta-Ruinas San Pedro de Arlanza Hiking trail in Covarrubias, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Desde el punto de vista de la comodidad quizás sea mejor hacer esta ruta en el sentido contrario al que yo lo he hecho, ya...

www.wikiloc.com

The area around Sad Hill and Contreras has a lot of trails, GR 82 (which. may be the same thing as the Camino del Cid, not sure), and then there are the Tenadas de Valcarcel, which are old cattle sheds with apparently a lot of architectural interest for the traditional construction methods they used. I am not really sure if my tracks will take me by one of these sheds or not, but it’s not a big deal for me either way.

 

[VNwalking]

Good catch @C clearly.
Yes. Looking for the track from San Pedro to Covarrubias instead. Here are two possibilitirs:

Circular Covarrubias-Retuerta-Ruinas San Pedro de Arlanza

Circular Covarrubias-Retuerta-Ruinas San Pedro de Arlanza Hiking trail in Covarrubias, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Desde el punto de vista de la comodidad quizás sea mejor hacer esta ruta en el sentido contrario al que yo lo he hecho, ya...

www.wikiloc.com

Peregrinación del Buen Conde Covarrubias - San Pedro de Arlanza

Peregrinación del Buen Conde Covarrubias - San Pedro de Arlanza Hiking trail in Covarrubias, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Ruta a pie o peregrinaje desde Covarrubias al monasterio de san Pedro de Arlanza "Ruta del buen conde" para mis amigos...

www.wikiloc.com

@Bachibouzouk , if you want to get in the weeds with this, here is are some earlier threads.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-detour-to-san-pedro-de-arlanza.77826/

 

[C clearly]

if you want to get in the weeds with this

For deep in the weeds, here is a screenshot of some options

 

[VNwalking]

For deep in the weeds, here is a screenshot of some options

Geeze. No wonder I took a wrong turn.

Word to the wise. Have an offline (or paper) map, A track would not be a bad idea too. I had neither - this was before I knew how to use OSMand - and all I had were screenshots. I went in a different direction than I intended.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Arrived back in Siguenza on Sunday. Stayed with the Padres Josefinos, which is far more central than Albergue Cuidad del Doncel, where I had stayed last time. Padres Josefinos is in the Palacio de los Infantes, built to accommodate the young cathedral choristers. It is in Calle de los Infantes. Tel: 949 390 890. A single room with sheets, pillowcase and towel is 25.00 euros. I wasn't offered the dormitory so don't know if that is still available.

There's an early morning cafe/panaderia at the junction with the street that runs down to station. Open 06:30 daily.

Siguenza - Atienza via Carabias (38kms)

You are also on the Ruta Don Quijote as you leave Siguenza. I couldn't for the life of me remember the significance of Siguenza in Cervantes' novel, except that the priest who help throw Don Quijote's books on chivalry out the window had trained at the seminary in Siguenza. Perhaps Siguenza is mentioned in the second tome in one of the interpolated stories? Anyone read Don Quijote recently?

I was amused (little things please little minds) to come across a paddock with three donkeys in it as I walked: Don-Key-Jote.

Hard to credit that the village of Palazuelos once had 2kms of walled fortification around it. Only the four gates remain (you enter via one and exit via another), a bit of wall and part of the castillo. Fuente. Bar not in evidence.

I knew the church at Carabias to be closed on a Monday but decided to take the detour anyway. It's 3kms on the road from Palazuelos and from Carabias you can rejoin the Camino just before La Olmeda de Jadraque. There is no waymarking but it's pretty straightforward. Head for the salt pans and, what I take to be, salt silos. At the T-junction hang a left heading for Cirueches and then turn right before the village. The Romanesque church at Carabias is well worth the detour. There's a hotel in Carabias that had tables and chairs outside - a potential coffee break?

In La Olmeda de Jadraque look out for the extravagantly and colourfully decorated house and garden by the 'fronton'.

Santamera has a couple of interesting architectural anomalies. What appears to be a stone and clay-clad yurt and a modern house perched on and over-lapping a much older one. Nice church on the hilltop with a convenient bench to take a rest and look around. Fuentes.

Riofrio de Llano, miraculously, had a bar that was open. Usually only open in July and August and weekends the rest of the year. It was a Monday! Public holiday in Madrid, I was told when I enquired as to how I should have been so lucky. Probably says a lot about who now owns most of the houses in the village.

As I approached Atienza the sky darkened and clouded over. A great pity as the arrival in Atienza must be spectacular with a clear blue backdrop.

I couldn't get into the albergue in Atienza. Since the start of my walk I had not come across one single other walker. That evening two bicigrinos had pipped me to the two beds in the albergue. As the Alcade said: 'For days and weeks we have no one and today there are three of you.' It had to happen in the albergue with the smallest capacity! I popped my head in to have a look. It looked fine to me - some here have questioned its suitabilty. I ended up staying in the nameless hostal above the Bar Restaurante Atienza, opposite the petrol station as you enter town. It looked closed with weeds growing out of the steps up to reception but my room was clean and comfortable and good value at 25.00 euros. Food downstairs was good too.

I climbed up to the castillo the following morning. It was a bright and sunny day. The 360 degree panorama is spectacular and well worth the effort.

More later.

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Atienza - Retortillo de Soria (22kms)

A good days walking, first though forests of pins, then more open ground and finally up and over the Sierra del Bulejo, which divides Guadalajara and Soria provinces but also Castilla La Mancha and Castilla Leon. Waymarking is fine until you get to the pass, then becomes rather sporadic. But fear not fellow walker, as I arrived in Retortillo de Sofia to check in to the albergue, Aurora, who runs both the albergue and the Hostal La Muralla, was setting off with paintbrush and pot of yellow paint to clarify the route. She told me it hadn't been done for five years. After the pass follow the road to your left for 2 or 3kms, then look out for arrows on your left taking you off the road and down into the village. I think it was these arrows that the aptly named Aurora was brightening up.

There is neither shop nor bar in Retortillo de Sofia but you can eat at Hostal La Muralla (14.00 euros for a menu). I asked Aurora about her waymarking. She was not very complimentary about the cheap Chinese paint she had had to use - 'too runny'.

I had stopped in Miedes de Atienza for a beer, sandwich and provisions as this is the last shop before Olmillos or possibly even San Esteban de Gormaz. Bar Moreno was a most excellent place to make a halt with friendly locals eager to discuss the Camino and the following day's Champions League semi-final between Real Madrid and Manchester City. Locals were enjoying a good lunch as the bar doubles up as a restaurant. The owner also runs the adjacent 'tienda' and opened up for me to buy a few things. Miedes de Atienza seemed to me to be an altogether more appealing place than Retortillo de Soria to spend the night. Amazing what difference a bar makes! And here's the thing, I'm now spending my second night in Retortillo de Soria. More about that later as dinner calls.

The albergue in Retortillo de Soria, as has been said before, is one of the very best. Modern, clean and superbly equipped (chargers for every type of electronic gadgetry too). At 18.00 euros, it is also at the top end of the price range.

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Retortillo de Soria - Tiermes - Retortillo de Soria (38kms)

My interest had been piqued on this Forum to make a detour to the Celto-Iberic and Roman ruins at Tiermes and continue on to Taracueña to rejoin the Camino. Last night I heard that the Hostal Rural Los Arrenes was closed (Bad Pilgrim will be disappointed). This confirmed the fact that I had got no answer from any of the three telephone numbers I had. A spanner had been well and truly thrown into the works - there is no other accommodation before San Esteban de Gormaz (44kms from Retortillo de Soria BEFORE the detour to Tiermes is taken into account). I had two choices, abandon the Tiermes side-trip or got out and back and spend another night in Retortillo de Soria.

I chose the latter on the basis that I will probably never be here again. It's a fair old hike, quite a bit of it on tarmac. About half? There's the GR86 that goes all the way but it is badly sign-posted and overgrown and besides uses the road for most of the route. For those of you who might be interested in this side-trip, start on the GR86 at the Puerta Sollera gate, then follow the road to Castro, Valvenedizo, Losana and Paralejo de Escuderos, where the tarmac runs out. Follow the GR86 to the abandoned hamlet of Manzaneres and onto Tiermes on a well signed four-wheel track. It's about 19kms in each direction. There are 'fuentes' at Valvenedizo (probably 'no tratada') and Losana. There is a hotel at Tiermes. In theory Tiermes is open 10:00-14:00 and 16:00-19:00 (closed on Mondays) but there are no gates and no fences. You could stay in Tiermes and rejoin the Camino at Caracena but you'd miss out on the canyon between Taracueña and Caracena.

Was it worth it, I hear you say. Absolutely, but I get it that, if unlike me, you are doing the Ruta de la Lana in one hit, an extra day at this stage is unwelcome. For me the aquaduct, the amphitheatre, the stairs, drainage system and the town entrance all hewn out of the sandstone rock were 'must sees'. It's not Petra, it's not Merida, even less Pompeii but it was a cracking destination and one I was able to visit completely on my own. There's even a picture perfect C12th Romanesque church. A visit I would never have even heard of had it not been for this Forum. Thank you Peregrina2000.

Oh and bring a torch for the aquaduct. You can do it in the dark by feel but you'll only see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Along the way I was circled by some thirty or forty vultures and earlier in the day I'm pretty certain I saw a family of wild boar scampering through a field in the distance. They were too dark to be deer and moved with a different gait.

And that more or less brings me up to date. Not sure I'm looking forward to tomorrow's 44kms yomp!

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Retortillo de Soria - San Esteban de Gormaz (44kms)

A long but a very good day, in which I get lucky - twice. Probably ended up doing 46 or 47kms due to some dodgy decisions on my behalf but I got to San Esteban in the end. Some twelve hours door to door. Even though a good part of this stage is on the road, the scenery is often spectacular, always pleasing.

The canyon between Tarancueǹa and Caracena certainly falls under the spectacular category - and the exciting.

In Caracena I got lucky for the first time. The bar was closed but miraculously I arrived just as the owner Maria Angels was taking deliveries and opened up for a couple of quick beers and a 'bocadillo'. The bar normally opens 13:00-17:00 (23:00 on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays) and is closed on Wednesdays.

I would have liked to have taken a look at the castillo and the puente but I was aware of only being a third of the way through my day and time was ticking away. Both can the glimpsed over your shoulder as you leave the village.

I got lucky for the second time in Ines. I was looking for the bar or tienda that no longer exist when I can across Carlos and Helen, who were having a coffee outside their house. They were kind enough to offer me a beer. They are winemakers (Ines just about squeezes in to the Ribeiro del Duero appelation). Carlos is from Madrid and Helen from Holland. Carlos is also, and maybe primarily, a poet and painter. His paintings, mostly of cats, hang framed or as frescoes throughout the village. His words are on every street corner in the village. A quite wonderful meeting.

There is no tienda in Olmillos and the bar was closed but here too I was offered a beer by a friendly local (or maybe I just looked wretched?) - I had to turn it down for fear of never reaching St Esteban!

I got to San Esteban de Gormaz later than expected and checked into Hostal Moreno, which may now be called Hostal Bigotes. I thought I'd made a big mistake. My first contact with the owner was not a good one but after a beer and a very good meal he has grown on me. 30:00 euros for a single room. Closed on Fridays. Tel: 975 181 815. After such a long day I just couldn't contemplate a polideportivo.

Buen Camino

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks so much for alerting me to your posts @Bachibouzouk. I’m more than a week behind you and will be checking back in as I get further along. I’ve had one 37 Km day so far that was much tougher for me than it would have been a few years ago. Time to scale back! So it looks like I will need to pay attention. Tiermes and Carabias seem unlikely, but I’m still hoping to see San Baudelio de Berlanga.

I wonder if the drought is as obvious and as destructive as it has been in these early stages. In the place where I’m staying in Alcala, the owner tells us that no one in town, not even the “más mayores” can remember a year with a total crop failure like this year. They’ve given up on the wheat and are now only hoping that there will be rain to keep the trees alive. The olives seem to be surviving but we’ve seen a lot of dead almond trees.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Riofrio de Llano, miraculously, had a bar that was open. Usually only open in July and August and weekends the rest of the year.

I was bar-less for the whole length of this stage, still I think I walked in July - or perhaps late June. Overall you seem to have run into more bars in the area than I did! I am taking notes.

You could stay in Tiermes and rejoin the Camino at Caracena but you'd miss out on the canyon between Taracueña and Caracena.

That is a tough choice. But you convinced me that Tiermes is worth a visit. Do you have any photos to share of these visits: Tiermes, romanesque church in Carabias, etc?

I got to San Esteban de Gormaz later than expected and checked into Hostal Moreno, which may now be called Hostal Bigotes

Pilgrims-to-come may also try their luck with the more central Hotel Rivera del Duero. Arm yourself with a big pilgrim smile and they may give you a discount on a room. Or maybe not. I guess it depends on who is behind the counter. I have had both outcomes...

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I wonder if the drought is as obvious and as destructive as it has been in these early stages. In the place where I’m staying in Alcala, the owner tells us that no one in town, not even the “más mayores” can remember a year with a total crop failure like this year. They’ve given up on the wheat and are now only hoping that there will be rain to keep the trees alive. The olives seem to be surviving but we’ve seen a lot of dead almond trees.

Yes many are worried about the lack of rain, also the unseasonably high temperatures in April (40C) and the bitterly cold month of May (earlier this week it got down to -2C overnight).

I had been thinking how verdant everything looked! Probably because I usually walk in the autumn. Loads of colourful spring flowers by the wayside - reds, yellows and purples - but I do miss the autumnal fruit, berries and nuts along the Camino (figs, blackberries, walnuts, .....).

 

[Bachibouzouk]

That is a tough choice. But you convinced me that Tiermes is worth a visit. Do you have any photos to share of these visits: Tiermes, romanesque church in Carab

Yes I do but have no idea how to load them up here. I'll put them on to Flickr when I get home. Send me your e-mail off Forum and I'll copy you in. Won't be for a couple weeks, however.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

San Esteban de Gormaz - Quintanarraya (30kms)

Made a late start as I wandered around San Esteban de Gormaz. Both Romanesque churches are worth taking a look at. I had intended to climb up to the castillo past the 'cuevas' but ran out of time.

Many yellow arrows have faded to white ('cheap Chinese paint'?) along this stretch but most of the route is fairly clearly.

As you exit the forest after Alcubilla de Avellanada the plentiful arrows disappear completely. Follow the signs for Ruta del Cid down into Hinojar del Rey and onto Quintanarraya. That became something of a mantra for me: if in doubt, follow the Cid.

The fuente at Matanza de Soria is off-route but a lovely old lady with a walking stick filled my bottle up for me. I sent her off to the fuente as I sat in the sun - only joking!

Fuente in Villalvaro but bar was closed.

Zayas de Bascones - no fuente, tap broken.

Alcubilla de Avellaneda has a fuente but of the 'no tratada' variety. Ditto Hinojar del Rey. The restaurant in Alcubilla was closed. 'Fallecemiento'.

There are no 'tiendas' anywhere.

Now a caveat 're the albergue at Quintanarraya:

1) the phone number in Kevin O'Brien's guide is way out of date. It's for the previous Alcalde and the old buzzard was not best pleased to be disturbed yet again.

2) the present Alcalde is very helpful (tel: 650 262 122) but he is retiring after the next elections on 15 June. He was pessimistic about what would happen to the albergue after that. The 5.00 euro charge does not cover costs (electricity, heating, cleaning, ....) and the albergue brings nothing to the village. Would be a shame as it's a good albergue. That said everyone else I spoke to said the albergue could not/would not close. Nota bene: there is no longer a microwave at the albergue.

In Quintanarraya I got lucky again. It was the village fiesta, so the bar was open. But there was no food - crisps/potato chips only. Was made really welcome but had to drop out early. The next morning, as I headed off to Clunia at about 09:00, some youngsters were still raving to techno and when I returned around lunchtime to collect my rucksack the bar had re-opened and I noticed some of my fellow drinkers from the previous night. Glassy-eyed, yes, but still standing. Had to admire their stamina and capacity for alcohol.

More later.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Clunia, or to give it its full title Colonia Clunia Sulpicia, is 3kms on the carretera from Quintanarraya. Leave your rucksack at the albergue as you will have to double back most of the way in any case. Opening times are 10:00-14:00 and 16:00-20:00 in summer, 10:00-14:00 and 15:00-17:00 in winter. Entrance is 5:00 euros. Meson Clunia, right by the entrance, has the same opening times as the site and closes a bit later. It also had a good red Ribeira del Duero and a log fire on a day with a bitter wind. This had me thinking that there could an alternative to the no food situation in Quintanarrya. Something like this:

Leave San Esteban de Gormaz early. Drop rucksack off at Quintanarraya albergue. Head up to Clunia. Eat at Meson Clunia ('posible comer pero no cenar'). Visit Clunia. Head back to albergue. It's a long day after another even lengthier stretch the day before. Probably only for the macho-military type, but worth considering... for a few short seconds.

On the other hand, spend the morning in Clunia after a bit of a lie-in and walk the 6kms to Huerta del Rey in the afternoon. Of interest at Clunia is the amphitheatre, partly dug out of the rock face and which I was surprised to read had a larger capacity than the one at Merida, and some mosaics. Most of the ruins are of the knee-high variety but the interpretation centre was very good as is the signage. Unfortunately the underground water supplies and springs cannot be safely visited. Unlike Tiermes, and it being Saturday, I had to share the site with some pesky interlopers!

Leave Quintanarraya on the street that passes the two railway carriages. Belgian and Basque goods wagons that have been joined together to make a summer home. The owner told me how he got them there but, alas, I lost the thread. He also offered me a beer. Another I had to turn down! Then past the piggery (you'll hear the barking dogs) and onto the Camino del Cid.

Am now at Casa Rural Hostal La Tejera in Huerta del Rey. A Bad Pilgrim recommendation that I fully endorse. 25.00 euros for a room with shower and WC. Tel: 635 594 939 or 635 662 398. Also available Hostal Camino El Cid. There are several bars in town but no restaurant open on a Saturday night. Neither could I find the two supermarkets but, in truth, I didn't try very hard to find them.

And that will be all from your correspondent tonight.

Buen Camino

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[Bachibouzouk]

That is a tough choice. But you convinced me that Tiermes is worth a visit.

In Caracena I saw a GR 86 sign-post pointing back to Losana (10.5km). Looked like via the canyon? You'd need to stay at the hotel in Tiermes and it would extend the 44kms to San Esteban de Gormaz. Roughly speaking:

Tiermes to Losana - 10kms
Losana to Caracena - 10.5kms
Caracana to San Esteban de Girmaz - 28.5kms

Just about do-able at the right time of year but probably not a great deal of pleasure involved any time of the year.

 

[VNwalking]

Don-Key-Jote

The Romanesque church at Carabias is well worth the detour.

Laurie...hope you get there!

Roman ruins at Tiermes

So glad you made it, @Bachibouzouk! Definitely sounds worth the extra night...

thirty or forty vultures

Oh! Yes, please.

Buen camino! I'm very much enjoying your account.

 

[Donovan]

I’m new to this thread so hope I don’t repeat what’s already been discussed.

Casa Rural Rio Dulce in Aragosa is every bit as good as Alan Sykes described it. It’s a gem, and it cuts off a few km compared with starting in Mandayona.

Hotel Los Arenes in Tarancueña is closed and no accommodation is available in Caraceña, so it’s now a 43km stage from Retortillo de Soria to San Esteban de Gormaz. I’ll be looking at taxi options when I get to R de S tomorrow. 43km is just too far for this 80+ body.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I’m new to this thread so hope I don’t repeat what’s already been discussed.

Casa Rural Rio Dulce in Aragosa is every bit as good as Alan Sykes described it. It’s a gem, and it cuts off a few km compared with starting in Mandayona.

Hotel Los Arenes in Tarancueña is closed and no accommodation is available in Caraceña, so it’s now a 43km stage from Retortillo de Soria to San Esteban de Gormaz. I’ll be looking at taxi options when I get to R de S tomorrow. 43km is just too far for this body.

Wow,

43 kms would be impossible for a lot of us. I hope someone in the villages understands the need for accomodation and opens something up... For what it's worth, Aurora (in La Muralla) told me a few years ago that they plan to re-route the Lana, going through Gormaz [different from San Esteban de Gormaz] (I guess instead of Fresno de Caracena) but I don't know if that would help...

 

[VNwalking]

43km is just too far for this 80+ body.

That's literally a marathon plus change.
Grf. I'd need a long midsummer day to pull that off, and on the Lana at that time of year It'd be stiflingly hot.

Buen camino Donovan! Hope the taxi works out.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Presently in Covarrubias with a couple of stages to document. Both absolutely terrific days.

Huerta de Rey - Santo Domingo de Silos (18kms):

Great walk up through the forest to Ermita Nuestra Senora de Pinarejos. It's on tarmac but there were no cars. Fuente. At the Ermita Kevin O'Brien's instructions are confusing. For the BU-V-9218 turn left (walkers), straight on to Mamolar (cyclists). The signs are very clear. Walkers, about 500m after the Ermita you will turn right off the tarmac and onto Pista Forestal Las Carrascas, again clearly marked. Then follow yellow arrows/Camino del Cid/GR signs down into Peñacoba. Magnificent vistas once out of forest.

Bar (closed but showed signs of having recently been open - stacked crates of empty beer bottles outside) and fuente in Peñacoba. From here you descend to the Desfiladero de la Yecla. Just before you arrive you start to notice the dozens and dozens of vultures hanging out over and around the gorge. You can watch the vultures watching you from La Yecla bar and restaurant. Dozens perched (a committee, I am told) on the top of the rocks and dozens circling overhead (a kettle) casting their huge shadows on the cliff face. I thought the numbers at Manzaneres on the way to Tiermes was impressive, here there were dozens more. Spectacular is an often over used word. Not here. You could spend some considerable time sitting and watching.

The Desfiladero is another spectacular, if much shorter than imagined, element of the day's walk. On a suspended gangway above the Yecla stream you make your way through the gorge. At times it is so narrow that you can touch both sides of the gorge simultaneously. By this stage of the walk nobody will have overpacked, which is just as well as your rucksack will scrape the sides and overhangs anyway.

After the Desfiladero it is a further 3km into Santo Domingo de Sillos. And more treats are in store for you here. The cloister in the monastery, the lovely town 'triangle', the walls and other medieval buildings, the warm welcome by the monk in charge of the albergue, the very best albergue you are likely to chance upon (washing machine, dryer and soap powder), all of which is 'donativo'. As has been said before, you should attend one the services in the church next to the monastery with the monks.

NB services as follows (slightly different to K.O'B.'s guide):
Lauds at 07:30
Mass at 09:00
Vespers at 19:00
Compline at 21:35
Times alter on public holidays and Sundays but are well marked up.

For those fascinated by the two twisted pillars at Caracena there is a set of four twisted pillars in the cloister. No genuine explanation provided other than it could be a new stone mason making his mark.

Great view of the town from the Ermita Santiago and the statue of Mary further up.

Alfín del Asfalto.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I’m new to this thread so hope I don’t repeat what’s already been discussed.

Casa Rural Rio Dulce in Aragosa is every bit as good as Alan Sykes described it. It’s a gem, and it cuts off a few km compared with starting in Mandayona.

Hotel Los Arenes in Tarancueña is closed and no accommodation is available in Caraceña, so it’s now a 43km stage from Retortillo de Soria to San Esteban de Gormaz. I’ll be looking at taxi options when I get to R de S tomorrow. 43km is just too far for this 80+ body.

Ola Donovan. Bienvenido. Donde estas? Sounds as though you are not too far behind me. The route ahead is wonderful even if there are a couple of longish days.

Buen Camino.

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[Donovan]

I’m in Retortillo de Soria tonight - excellent albergue and Aurora is very helpful. Exciting day tomorrow through the Caracena gorge, then on to Fresno de Caracena where I (or rather Aurora) has arranged a taxi pickup to take me to San Esteban de Gormaz. After that it’s back to planning each day as it comes.

There is a bus tomorrow but the only stop that is on the Lana is Fresno de Caracena, so it bypasses the gorge. I believe this is a once a week service.

 

[islandwalker]

The Desfiladero is another spectacular, if much shorter than imagined, element of the day's walk. On a suspended gangway above the Yecla stream you make your way through the gorge. At times it is so narrow that you can touch both sides of the gorge simultaneously. By this stage of the walk nobody will have overpacked, which is just as well as your rucksack will scrape the sides and overhangs anyway.

I am so glad it worked out for you to see the Yecla Gorge. It was one of our most loved deviations from the Camino Frances and is still a vivid memory.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I am so glad it worked out for you to see the Yecla Gorge. It was one of our most loved deviations from the Camino Frances and is still a vivid memory.

Yes indeed but much shorter than I had anticipated. Also that it's on the Ruta de la Lana itself. I was expecting a short detour off Camino.

At either end of the gorge there is a panel giving examples of the fauna in the area. Earlier in the week, just out of Siguenza I saw what I initially thought was an Alsatian or German Shepherd about 100m ahead of me right on the track. It scarpered at 90 degrees across an open field. I saw it wasn't a dog. Thought, until I read the panel at the gorge, that it must have been a fox even though it was grey and bigger than our urban foxes. As per the panel, I'm now pretty convinced it was a 'lobo'. Anyone else come across one before? I thought they were nocturnal.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Santo Domingo de los Silos - Covarrubias

Today was off Camino. My plan had been to take a look at the ruins of the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza. I knew them to be closed on a Monday (and on a Tuesday too) but thought I'd get an external view nonetheless. My route was via Sad Hill Cemetery, Contreras, San Pedro de Arlanza and onto Covarrubias - a fairly short day.

I got a late start. I'm just not getting the hang of these early starts. I wandered around San Domingo de los Silos just gawping for a while. Neither could I find anywhere open for breakfast and, as I had no provisions for the day ahead, some sort of breakfast was required.

It was well past 10:00 when Lady Luck hand-bagged me once again. I had no particular interest in Sad Hill Cemetery. If I've seen the movie (The Good, The Bad and The Ugly) it was decades ago and it left no particular impression on me. As I made my way up towards Sad Hill Cemetery I caught up with a Dutch couple. Ed and Esther had ridden their motorbikes from Nijmegen for the sole purpose of visiting Sad Hill Cemetery. Another kind of pilgrimage. By the time we reached Sad Hill Cemetery I had the full background story: the movie (I won't spoil it for those who haven't seen it), the actors (Clint Eastwood, Lee Van Cleef, Eli Wallach), the director (Sergio Leone), the guy who wrote the score (Ennio Morricone), the sequence of the three (or was it four?) movies - prequel and sequel, a fourth movie to cash in on the success of the other three. Ed is a retired teacher and like all the best teachers he knew how to bring his subject to life. I was a convert to their pilgrimage and soon I wanted to see all four of the movies. And here's the thing (and the thing a great teacher does), when we arrived at the cemetery Ed produced a Clint Eastwood poncho and leather cowboy hat from his daypack. We took some great photos. Looking back on it tonight, we could have done with some replica pistols and a half chewed cigarillo to really get the image right but maybe that would have been too much of a cliché?

I spent far too much time at Sad Hill Cemetery but it was a real buzz. By the by, and I'm something of an expert on the subject now don't ya know, three other scenes from the movie were shot nearby - Betterville, Puente de Langstone and Mission San Antonio, which I have a hunch may be the monastery at San Pedro de Arlanza. From Sad Hill Cemetery the graded track continues on to Contreras. Fuente as you arrive in the village, the one in the middle of the village has no tap. There is a bar (closed but showed signs of being operational) and you'll have, of course, guessed the name: El Saloon, with pistols as the insignia. I would definitely have stopped there for a shot of tequila as some 'boracho' was heaved through the swing doors into the dust.

From Contreras it's about a 10km walk down to the Arlanza river. Just follow the main graded track all the way. As you reach the tarmac and the bridge you can either turn right for about 2km, which had been my plan, to the ruins of the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza or cross the bridge and carry on to Covarrubias (5kms), which is what I did having frittered away too much time along the way.

From Santo Domingo de los Silos, say: 5kms to Sad Hill Cemetery, 4kms to Contreras, 10kms to the bridge/road, 2kms to monastery de San Pedro ruins, 7kms to Covarrubias. My maths makes that 28kms. The waymarking is not great but the route is pretty obvious with the occasional red and white GR flash.

So at this point my plans have changed. I had two options in mind from Covarrubias. Either switch over and walk the San Olav backwards to Burgos (but without being able to visit San Pedro de Arlanza) or carry on to Modular de Emperrada and return back on the San Olav to Covarrubias and visit San Pedro de Arlanza when it's open. A third, obvious, option opened up to me as I walked and my brain cleared. Spend two nights in Covarrubias. Tuesday: out to the San Olav chapel, to check out what all the fuss is about, continue on to Santa Maria de Quintanilla de las Viñas Visigothic church (it will be closed but an external viewing is better than nothing - and I may get lucky with the key) and try to find those dinosaur footprints. Wednesday: morning hack out along the road and back to San Pedro de Arlanza before collecting my rucksack in Covarrubias and heading on to Mecerreyes in the afternoon. This also allows for the undoubted advantage of being able to move around the two beautiful main squares in Covarrubias from bar to bar, staying in the sun whilst enjoying a glass of wine!

I'm staying in the Hostal Doña Sancha (45.00 euros with a very good homemade Pacharan!), which was recommend by AlexWalker in his San Olav guide. It is also the first hotel I came across. There are other cheaper accommodation possibilities, more central, but there is no albergue. Plenty of bars and places to eat but, I am told, nowhere for breakfast before 09:00.

Buen Camino

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Covarrubias - Quintanilla de las Viñas - Mambrillas de Lara - Covarrubias

Mix of senderos, carretera and Camino San Olav today. Set off on the El Cerro/San Olav Ruta 4, which soon became the Ruta 5, down and back up to Quintanilla de las Viñas. Just before QdlV are the Las Sereas 7 dinosaur footprints. There's a second set in QdlV but I coudn't find them. Bar in QdlV (closed but with tables and chairs outside, so it is a going concern). Fuente.

About 1km up the road from QdlV is the small C7th Visigothic church of Santa Maria. It was closed but is open Wednesday to Sunday 10:20-14:25 and 16:05-19:10 (May to September) and 09:50-17:10 (rest of year). Closed the first weekend of every month. I was pleased to be able to see at least the outside. The back of the church looked more recent with some pristine bas-reliefs and what I take to be Inquisition graffiti carved into the stone.

I think I probably could have returned to QdlV and continued on to Mambrillas de Lara on the San Olav but I continued on the tarmac first to Lara de las Infantes (fuente), then to Campolara, where the bar was open and serving lunch to the locals. There was also a storks' nest on the church tower with two chicks. One of the adults always standing guard while the other one went out foraging.

From there I carried on on the tarmac to Mambrillas de Lara. I couldn't help but think of Cilla Black ('A lorra lot of Laras'). Just before Mambrillas de Lara are the La Pedraja dinosaur footprints. These didn't seem to me to be as well defined as those at Las Sereas 7 but the 12m fiberglass sauropoda was a real surprise.

I saw no bar in Mambrillas de Lara but there was a fuente. From here I took the Camino San Olav back to Covarrubias via the San Olav chapel.

More later as dinner calls.

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[Bachibouzouk]

And so to the San Olav chapel that divides opinions. I rather liked it. Of course, after the chapels, ermitas, churches and cathedrals along the way, it is a bit of an ugly duckling. But it is of its time and striking. In its splendid isolation it packs a punch. The wood and rusted metal structure reminded me of the mechanical agricultural detritus in all those farm yards along the way, also of the hulk of a ship - and the Norwegians are a great seafaring nation.

For those carrying on to Burgos via the San Olav, I gleaned the following information:
Casa Rural Roblejimeno in Cubillo del Cesar, tel: 628 692 459
Casa Rural Cincolunas in Revilla del Campo, tel: 677 482 401
Bar Toño in Los Ausines

There is also accommodation just off the route:
Casa Rural Sixto and Casa Rural La Hornera in Cuevas San Clemente, tel: 687 826 562 (both)
Hostal Restaurante La Moruga in Hortiguela, tel: 947 115 003

Well it was a long day but one in which I felt like I travelled through time: dinosaurs' footprints, a Visigothic church and the first C21st chapel to be built in Spain. Back to reality and the Ruta de la Lana tomorrow ;-)

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for these detailed updates @Bachibouzouk. I’m sure they’ll be extremely helpful, and I will study them carefully when we get closer. Today is a rest day in Cuenca. I don’t think I have taken a rest day on a Camino in at least 15 years, but this place merits one, I think. Lots of paths up and down. Lots of beautiful scenery. Every day there seems to be a chance of rain, but it never materializes.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Thanks for these detailed updates @Bachibouzouk. I’m sure they’ll be extremely helpful, and I will study them carefully when we get closer. Today is a rest day in Cuenca. I don’t think I have taken a rest day on a Camino in at least 15 years, but this place merits one, I think. Lots of paths up and down. Lots of beautiful scenery. Every day there seems to be a chance of rain, but it never materializes.

Cuenca - great place to take a day out. I finished there one year (prior to Covid) and presumed there two (three?) years later after Covid. Had plenty of time to climb up and down that cliff more than once.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Covarrubias - Mecerreyes

Exceptional breakfast at Hostal Doña Sancha. 5.00 euros for a buffet of just about anything you can eat. Unfortunately only after 09:00.

In the morning I legged it out to the ruins of the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza, leaving my rucksack at the hostal. It's 8km on the road, so 16km out and back.

Monastery open 10:15-13:45 and 16:15-19:15 (May to September) and 10:00-17:00 (rest of year). Closed Mondays and Tuesdays and the first weekend of each month. Visit is free.

I get it that further degradation needs to be stopped and it needs to be made safe for visitors but I didn't feel that the restoration was that sympathetic. Lots of recent additions and tin roofs. The lesser cloister and the 'dependencias' are in better condition than the greater cloister and the church. Still it's very atmospheric, especially when you are there on your own.

Can't help wondering how some monasteries bounced back from the Spanish Confiscations while others didn't. Santo Domingo de Silos was revived by Benedictine monks from France. Not enough monks to go round? And the more remote monasteries left to wrack and ruin? Surprising as I've read that San Pedro is credited as being 'the cradle of Castille'.

Addendum to The Good, The Bad And The Ugly:
1) The Mission scene was filmed at San Pedro
2) two kilometres further down the road is the location for the Langstone Bridge scene. Unless you are a fan of the film, let me spare you the time and effort of going there. There is nothing to see. Possibly a few blocks of stone in the overgrown bushes and trees. Nothing more.

Having returned to the hostal to collect my rucksack I sat in the second of the main squares and enjoyed a beer and snack before setting off to Mecerreyes. I followed the GR160 Camino del Cid, which avoids most of the tarmac but takes a little longer (9/10km?).

None the less I arrived in Mecerreyes far too early. The bar (La Villa), where the key to the albergue is kept, doesn't open until 19:00. As the phone number in Kevin O'Brien's guide is out of date I sat outside and counted down the hours until opening time. A dear old señora (she told me she was 90) took pity on me and appeared with a welcome pot of coffee. Too bad we couldn't really understand each other. She'd lived in Nigeria and Rome. A missionary, perhaps?

The albergue is really excellent with all mod cons. It also has one of those refurbished conical chimneys that the locals use to make 'morcillo'. 5.00 euros. The bar owner's telephone number is: 624 795 543.

There is little food at the bar and no shop in the village. The owner did provide some 'tortilla' and some potato chips snacks. Note that the bar does not open in the mornings until 09:30 or when 'the bread has been delivered'. That timing was just too elastic for me - make sure you have a few 'madalenas' with you and coffee sachets.

The bar owner has a wonderful Mastine Leones/Mastine Español that you can approach without fear of getting your arm mawled. Unusual to be able to get so close to those huge dogs.

More later.

Alfín del Asfalto

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Mecerreyes - Burgos (37km)

Because I hadn't made provision for breakfast I headed off for Cuevas de San Clemente, where I was told I could get something at La Venta del Jamon. The coffee and 'tarta de queso' were excellent but this not only took me off Camino and added a couple of kilometres to my day but also meant 8km along a much too busy road with large trucks whistling by to Hontoria de la Cantera. Plan properly for breakfast and avoid this dog leg!

Because this was my last day, and as per Kevin O'Brien there are plenty of bars along the way, I decided to take my time and bar hop to Burgos.

Hontoria de la Cantera: Bar Cantina Hontoria - cerveza.

Revillaruz: La Cantina de Revillaruz - tinto.

Just before and just after Cojobar, which actually has no bar (trades description?), you can pick up the Camino Verde, the now disused Santander-Mediterraneo railway line, and follow it right into Burgos. It's flat and has a gentle gradient - perfect after a few refreshments!

But there was a bar at Modubar de la Emparedada: La Cantina - vino blanco.

Here I read that the railway line was a C19th project to link the ports at Santander and Valencia. I don't think it was ever completed but this part of the line was operational until 1985. You can still see the stations, platforms, bits of signalling equipment, etc..... and just before Burgos there's a tunnel nearly 600m long to walk through.

Cardeñadijo: Bar La Cantina - café solo y patcharan.

I arrived in Burgos a tired but happy peregrino, my Ruta de la Lana finally completed. I've lost track of when I started this walk (well before Covid) and how many instalments it has taken me (five, I think) to complete it. Having done the Camino Frances and having been to Santiago twice, I do not plan to carry on from here.

Next up? Camino de Madrid to Leon or Cami de Sant Jaume to Puente de la Reina next year. In the meantime I'll be walking the Ruta de Pedra en Sec (GR221) across Mallorca in September. Not sure if the latter has a place here on this Forum but happy to post if anyone is interested and moderators will allow.

Thanks to all those who contributed to the Virtual Ruta de la Lana thread and all those who made suggestions and answered my pre-departure questions. You know who you are. I used Kevin O'Brien's guide along the way. One or two caveats:

1) phone numbers soon become obsolete, particularly those of elected persons (alcaldes)
2) one or two places to stay have closed
3) bars and 'tiendas' that still exist will rarely be open just when you need them!

Regrets? I've had a few
But only two to mention:

1) I could have got to the castillo and puente in Caracena
2) I could have got to the cuevas and castillo in San Esteban de Gormaz
In hindsight this would have added less than an hour to either day.

It would have been nice to see inside the churches at Carabias and Quintanilla de las Viñas and the San Olav chapel but I can have no regrets about those. They just weren't open when I was passing through.

Buen Camino.

Alfìn del Asfalto

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Nice memories brought back! Your cultural exploits make me want to revisit the Lana.

I also thought the albergue in Mecerreyes was superb! Built for so many people... I guess Mecerreyes is also on the Camino del Cid?

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I also thought the albergue in Mecerreyes was superb! Built for so many people... I guess Mecerreyes is also on the Camino del Cid?

It is indeed. They've definitely thought big - there are three dorms each with about 10 beds. But no food in the village! There was a great feel about the place when it came to life once the bar opened.

 

[peregrina2000]

Bar (closed but showed signs of having recently been open - stacked crates of empty beer bottles outside) and fuente in Peñacoba

Question for you. (I’m sure there will be more) — from Peñacoba to the gorge, did you take the road? We started following an off-road wikiloc track , but the lines went straight at a certain point (maybe GPS stopped recording), so we had to just walk in the direction of the gorge(which we could see), being careful to stay far from the sheer cliff on our left. We were never in any danger but did wonder if we would have to turn back. Thanks to @C clearly’s good contour-line-reading skills and our decision to walk towards a transmission line, we made it fine.

 

[peregrina2000]

In the morning I legged it out to the ruins of the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza, leaving my rucksack at the hostal. It's 8km on the road, so 16km out and back

This is different than what we did but a good option methinks. The only thing I would suggest for anyone else going there is that there is a good off-road trail from the monastery into Covarrubias that is very pleasant. And no longer than the road option.

Peregrinación del Buen Conde Covarrubias - San Pedro de Arlanza

Peregrinación del Buen Conde Covarrubias - San Pedro de Arlanza Hiking trail in Covarrubias, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Ruta a pie o peregrinaje desde Covarrubias al monasterio de san Pedro de Arlanza "Ruta del buen conde" para mis amigos...

www.wikiloc.com

And this track takes you to within spitting distance of the 21C Ermita de San Olav. I saw it from a distance but had already been there once and was not chomping at the bit to see it again.

 

[peregrina2000]

In Caracena I got lucky for the first time. The bar was closed but miraculously I arrived just as the owner Maria Angels was taking deliveries and opened up for a couple of quick beers and a 'bocadillo'.

Rodrigo, María Angeles’ son, has moved back to Caracena. He is a chef and the restaurant/bar is now open every day but Wednesday. He is also renovating a casa rural and will rent rooms to pilgrims even while the renovations are going on. It was a fine place to stay. And the meal, though pricey, was surely one of the best of the camino.

Ridrigo’s younger brother now lives in the house where Magwood and others have stayed. He is working with his father and the sheep. They sell suckling lambs to restaurants. Their herd is in the 1400 range, but the mothers and sucklings are confined so the babies won’t eat any grass. The herd came down to town in the early evening we were there and it was very picturesque.

And btw, the best view of the Caracena castle is from about a half Km up on the path beyond the castle, where you can see the gorge opening up next to the castle.

Caracena is a very special and delicious place to stay.

Edited to add—I’ve been in with Rodrigo and he has said it’s ok to post his number. He will take in pilgrims whenever he can. Send him a WhatsApp in advance.

+34 609 44 82 19

And save up your euros for an excellent meal.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Question for you. (I’m sure there will be more) — from Peñacoba to the gorge, did you take the road?

As I recall it was tarmac down to the desfiladero. I just followed the waymarkings.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

This is different than what we did but a good option methinks. The only thing I would suggest for anyone else going there is that there is a good off-road trail from the monastery into Covarrubias that is very pleasant. And no longer than the road option.

Peregrinación del Buen Conde Covarrubias - San Pedro de Arlanza

Peregrinación del Buen Conde Covarrubias - San Pedro de Arlanza Hiking trail in Covarrubias, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Ruta a pie o peregrinaje desde Covarrubias al monasterio de san Pedro de Arlanza "Ruta del buen conde" para mis amigos...

www.wikiloc.com

And this track takes you to within spitting distance of the 21C Ermita de San Olav. I saw it from a distance but had already been there once and was not chomping at the bit to see it again.

That looks a better alternative although the road was fine, hardly any traffic and some good views down over the river. Perhaps, road one way, trail the other?

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Rodrigo, María Angeles’ son, has moved back to Caracena. He is a chef and the restaurant/bar is now open every day but Wednesday. He is also renovating a casa rural and will rent rooms to pilgrims even while the renovations are going on. It was a fine place to stay. And the meal, though pricey, was surely one of the best of the camino.

And btw, the best view of the Caracena castle is from about a half Km up on the path beyond the castle, where you can see the gorge opening up next to the castle.

Caracena is a very special and delicious place to stay.

I think I was a couple of weeks too early. I would have very much liked to stay in Caracena, one of the nicest little hamlets on the Camino, and wonder around a bit more (castle, bridge). I'm glad that is now an overnight option. 45Kms+ was a bit of an ordeal and why rush when you don't have to?