I see your memories - that mountain - I am a lowlander Englishman but this was a Real mountain! - bad times! I walked over in early April 2005, from Moissac, in France, just a few weeks before you - I was unaware but it had been a bad long winter - I didn't know, no one told me, that they had only opened it two days before, was all very pleasant the first half from St Jean but it turned bad up there, out of nowhere - Man - I nearly died up there! stomping through snow on the high ground, so high, eagles below me in the white swirl, (thankfully become rain on later much lower ground last few miles before Roncesvalles) but up there almost losing the red and white poles - I got sooo cold, at one point I hid myself behind some boulders to avoid the freezing snow wind to put more clothes on, all that I had, but my hands had become so cold I couldn't move my fingers to open my pack - took me ages with my fingers down in my groin to warm them ... SO stupid!! - coming down into Roncesavalles, into the 12th C refugio ... so pleased, so happy, so grateful. Stupid, utterly stupid, though no one told me not to go over.
Is why I now Really advocate caution going over that moutain - caution!
I walked over the Napoleon Pass twice, in 2013, and 2014, both at the end of April, when there was still a hint of snow on the ground. It was a huge struggle for me just to get to Orisson. That is why I stayed overnight there on both years. Although I had practiced for months before my first Camino, there are hills and then there are HILLS. That firs day out out St Jean Pied de Port is a doozie.
By the time I got to the big round concrete cistern on the right, shortly before Refuge Orisson, I was having problems breathing. This was not because I have any illness, other than being overweight. However, the net effect was trying to breathe so hard that I was certain that my lungs were going to burst from my throat...yuck!
A couple of much younger, well-intentioned, pilgrims came up to me, one placed a hand on one shoulder and asked: "...how are you doing old man...can we help you..." WELL, that did it!
As I sucked in air, I started to straighten up. I managed to blurt out: "...as soon as I get my breath back ... when my lungs finally make it up this hill behind me...I am going to beat you about the head with these sticks (lifts two hiking poles). I AM NOT OLD!..." I was 59 at the time.
I later bought them drinks on the deck at Refugio Orisson around the bend. All was well. They became part of my Camino family for he next month.
In 2018, my wife flew over to join me after my month's volunteer service at the Pilgrim Office. We rented a car and drove about northern Spain. From our multi-day stay at Pamplona, I drove over the mountains, backwards via the Valcarlos route to show her the terrain and the beauty of it all. We spent much of the day playing tourist in St. Jean Pied de Port.
We had lunch on the deck at Orisson and drove backwards down the hill, with pilgrims huffing and puffing walking up that hill. It was then, as my wife was hanging forward in her shoulder seat belt in the car, that she exclaimed to me... "... there is no f(*&^%$# way you are EVER doing this route again...EVER! Start in Roncesvalles or Pamplona if you want, but you are NEVER to walk this hill up there again...do I make myself understood?"
So, I ask you, what is a fellow to do? Mind you, my cardiologist said in April 2019 that I inexplicably have the heart and arteries of a 20-year old woman who does not smoke. I took that to be good news at nearly 67 and rather overweight.
I could get another wife. But after nearly 43 years together, 41 married, I am rather fond of her. So, that is a non-starter...
So, the next time I want to do the "Full Frances,"I think my plan will be to stay in SJPdP and have a vehicle transport me to the top of the climb at Cruz de Cize, where the path leaves the paved road heading for the border into Spain. I suppose that honors the spirit of the wifely order...
I did ask for her approval of this plan. That is what being married so long does to you... I did receive grudging approval... There, I have a plan...