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Rocamadour: Issigeac via Chateau Bonaguil and Luzech to Rocamadour Sanctuary (13 days, Nov-Dec 2024)

L

lovingkindness

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
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Bonjour tout la monde!

...just before Christmas (2024) I set off along deserted trails for Rocamadour Sanctuary (Dordogne, France). I used old maps that showed roman roads and national trails to wind my way from the medieval village of Issigeac (near Bergerac) via Chateau de Gavaudun and Chateau de Bonaguil down to the River Lot.

On a map Le Lot looks like a Python digesting several big dinners. The Gaules and Romans liked this stretch of the world very much and established themselves on the limestone cliffs above and in the fertile loops below.

...after following Les Chemin des Crêtes I scrambled down the limestone cliff to Luzech where there is an église Saint-Jacques, a cosy gîte d'étape (kitchenette, hot showers, heating) and three small museums -Luzech was already inhabited in prehistoric times. The museums include casts of dinasaur footprints and gigantic fossilised nautilus shells excavated locally. From there I continued on to Cahor (a stop on Voie du Puy). Rocamadour was a three-day walk along the GR 46 from there.

Trails (13 days): GR 654 Est, GR636, GR 36, GR 46

*Issigeac - Castillonés: local trail then GR 654E

*Castillones via Montaut to Monflanquin: Gr 654E/GR 636

*Monflanquin - Lacapelle-Biron: GR 636

*Lacapelle-Biron - Cahors: GR 36

*Cahors - Rocamadour Sanctuary: GR 46

Useful sites:

www.geoporteil.gouv.fr
Carte topographique IGN

GR-infos is a network of hiking trails in France

GR® Sentiers de Grandes Randonnées en France

Randonnée avec les GR® (Grandes Randonnées) à travers la France. Gîtes d'étapes, Chambres d'hôtes, Maison d'hôtes, Hôtels, Camping, Refuges, Auberges, Commerces.
www.gr-infos.com

11 Stages:
Issigeac - Castillonés

Castillonés via Montaut to Monflanquin

Monflanquin - Paulhiac

Paulhiac via Chateau de Gavaudun to Lacapelle-Biron

Lacapelle-Biron via Chayeau Bonaguil to St-Martin- le-Redon

St-Martin-le-Redon - Puy-L'Évêque

PUy-L'Évêque - Luzech

Luzech - Cahors

Cahors - Vers

Vers - Labastide-Murat

Labastide-Murat - Rocamadour Sanctuaire


Day 1 Leaving Issigeac (local trail)...


Day 3 Pauhilac...( gîte de pèlerins coming soon)


Day 4 Chateau de Gavaudun...


Église Saint-Sardos de Laurenque...


Day 5 Chateau de Bonaguil...




Day 7 scrambling down to Luzech


Day 9 ...Le Lot viewed from above Duelle


Day 12 ...Rocamadour Sanctuaire

L'Hôspitalet viewed from afar, where medieval pilgrims sheltered before arriving in Rocamadour.
 
Last edited:
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@lovingkindness, I love France, and I loved the Via Podiensis, but I took a train from Figeac to visit Rocamadour!
Your photos are amazing; thanks for sharing them.
You really "dug deep" to stitch together your special walk...kudos!
 
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Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
R.E.S.P.E.C.T!!!

I am in awe, I wish I could do something like this, I'm walking VG and VP in April, but that's about the limit of my adventurousness on a solo basis. I would need to walk with someone who could figure this all out to do something like what you've done. Thanks for sharing, and the pictures too. Wow!
 
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You could at least visit Rocamadour by train like I did. It just takes one full, yet relaxing day. We didn't feel rushed and enjoyed a nice lunch at a restaurant overlooking the valley below. No overnight was needed to mess up the stage, although we had planned two nights in Figeac and were glad we did. This trip was "winged" a day at a time.
 
This route sounds both adventurous and romantic in the sense of invoking days of yore. I'm familiar with the Lot only from the prehistoric paintings in the caves and the vineyards of Bergerac. Only yesterday - being snowed in - I was exploring my copies of the GRs to find an alternate hike from that of Le Puy-en-Velay to SJPP. Did you camp or use local hebergements? I am intrigued to attempt this myself, albeit in warmer months.

A marginally different question/topic: when I was in Paris in November and walked past the Tour St. Jacques, I recalled that this marked one of the traditional starting points for pilgrims setting off to Santiago. (For those aficionados of Harry Potter, the rue Nicolas Flamel ends at the Tour - Flamel's grave marker is in the Musée Cluny.). Have you - or any readers - attempted to walk from Paris to SJPP? Given the extensive network of GRs, it must be feasible.
 
I've visited Rocamadour several times to visit a friend who owned a shop. It is fascinating. The small chapel with the dark statue of Virgin Mary is austere. The local soft cheese is wonderful. I forget the spelling but it sounds like "cabby coo" in English. I remember seeing pilgrims in the town. There are locations where you can see the cave paintings.
 
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I was in Paris in December and it rained/snowed several days. A couple of your beautiful photos suggest some moisture present. So two questions: what footwear did you have: boots or trail runners? Second, what was your camera? I have always used a SLR but it gets heavier every year and am thinking o carrying only my iPhone. Suggestions? Thanks.
 
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