Restaurant Tips Camino Frances

[Introvert Fab]

Hello! I am about to walk my first Camino in August and would love to get restaurant recommendations from more experienced pilgrims. I don't really care about Michelin stars, but I am a foodie and would love to know about the Camino's hidden gems. Can't wait to hear about your experiences! Thank you.

 

[mspath]

Introvert Fab,

To start off your collection of good stops for food peruse this earlier but still useful thread on the inexpensive Menu del Dia

Like many I have usually found that the good stops for daily meals on the camino are where locals eat.

These 3 favorites are still in business although I enjoyed them years ago

In Puente La Reina I often enjoyed a GREAT menu del dia at the
La Conrada restaurant at 17 Paseo de los Fueros, which parallels the camino on the south

Restaurante en Puente la Reina/Gares con Restaurante La Conrada

Somos un prestigioso restaurante situado en Puente la Reina/Gares, además contamos con personal cualificado en la preparación de comida tradicional.

www.restaurantelaconrada.com

Negreira. The local Cafe Bar Imperial had a VERY good and copious menu del dia.

Café Bar Imperial, Negreira

En el Café Bar Imperial, situado en el Camino de Finisterre - Muxía, llevamos más de treinta de años ofreciendo a nuestros clientes un ambiente tranquilo y agradable, una amplia y variada gama de platos combinados, raciones, vinos y un económico menú del día o menú del peregrino.

www.barimperial.es

Viana has many very good restaurants; one favorite and nearby the municipal albergue is the restaurant in the Palacio de Pujados hotel where local vintners seem to enjoy eating well as did I.

Our Restaurant | Hotel Palacio de Pujadas by Mij, Viana

Restaurant | Hotel Palacio de Pujadas by Mij | Viana, Spain

www.hotelpalaciodepujadasbymij.com

Buen provecho!

 

[Robo]

Hello! I am about to walk my first Camino in August and would love to get restaurant recommendations from more experienced pilgrims. I don't really care about Michelin stars, but I am a foodie and would love to know about the Camino's hidden gems. Can't wait to hear about your experiences! Thank you.

In my experience Camino food can be a bit of a 'hit or miss' affair.
Specific recommendations are very hard, as establishments change, menus change, ownership changes.
We all also have very different tastes!

i.e. I had dinner in Santiago at a place (not cheap) that is recognised for its great food.
It was without doubt the worst meal of our whole Camino!

And one of the best meals we had was a Pilgrim Menu in a small cafe.
Great food, fresh produce, cooked with care and love! (Las Rocas)

Note! I mainly eat Pilgrim menus, before you go calling me a Tourigrino!
I found these over 3 Caminos

So with all that said..............I've had nice meals at:

Casa Sabina - Roncesvalles.
The Menu del Dia, that is served in the dining room off to the side of the bar.

Hostal Casa Sabina en Roncesvalles | Tu casa en Orreaga Roncesvalles

Hostal en Roncesvalles | Tu casa en Orreaga Roncesvalles

casasabina.roncesvalles.es

Meson Las Rocas in Vega de Valcarce
They own a cafe on the right side of the street and a casa Rural opposite.
Just the Pilgrim Menu.

Hotel O Cebriero in O Cebriero
The restaurant in through the back, behind the gift shop

Hotel O Cebreiro

Hotel Azofra - Burgoes
The place to go, for Slow Roast Lamb!
It's where the locals go I'm told. (Booking essential)
You'll recognise the courtyard opposite from the movie.....

Hotel Azofra | Burgos | Alojamiento al mejor precio | Web Oficial

Hotel muy cerca del centro de Burgos, Monasterio de las Huelgas, la Catedral de Burgos y el Museo de la Evolución Humana. Al mejor precio. Web Oficial.

www.hotelazofra.com

Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo - Carrion de los Condes
Really nice food in an amazing historic building.

Restaurante Las Vigas - Hotel Monasterio San Zoilo

sanzoilo.com

Great place to stay too. Very special.
It has it's own church and cloisters!

O Mirador - Portomarin

O Mirador - Restaurante en Portomarín

Restaurante en Portomarín. También contamos con cafetería y alojamiento en el Hostal El Padrino, todo en pleno Camino de Santiago.

omiradorportomarin.com

Restaurant is out the back with really nice water views.

Parador - Santo Domingo - The one next to the Church (there are two)

Gastronomía | Paradores de Turismo

www.parador.es

St Anton Abad - Villafranca Montes de Oca
Very nice Pilgrim Menu.
Lovely old building a bit like a Parador, without the cost!
It has a Hotel and an Albergue

Restaurante – Hotel San Antón Abad

www.hotelsanantonabad.com

Hotel Akerreta - Akerreta

Hotel Akerreta, hotel rural a sólo 10 km de Pamplona (Navarra)

Pequeño y acogedor hotel rural en Navarra, muy cerca de Pamplona. Perfecto para disfrutar de lo mejor de la geografía navarra y el Camino de Santiago

hotelakerreta.com

They only serve Hotel guests.

Calle del Laurel - Logrono
The well known Tapas 'Street'

If I think of any more, I'll add them in.

Oh, and my Camino Video this week is called 'Camino Food - The Complete Guide'
Rather than 'places' to eat, it covers the various food options / budgets.
I'll post it here in a few hours.

 

[trecile]

Calle del Laurel - Logrono
The well known Tapas 'Street'

A tapas bar crawl on Calle del Laurel is not to be missed! Each bar has its own specialty, along with other tapas.

 

[Kanga]

My advice is to have your main meal between 2 and 4pm, as the locals do, and try to find a place where the locals eat. Pay for the slightly more expensive Menu del Dia, rather than the cheapest option. Then at night have a few tapas in a bar, rather than a whole meal.

Finding a place for the main meal, I have two strategies, one is to follow the workers who come out of the town hall or local bank, and see where they eat, the other is to accost a table in the plaza of women-of-a-certain-age, and ask them for recommendations. They always know the best places to eat.

Meals in the evening before 10pm are not planned for the locals, but for the tourists and pilgrims who will likely never eat in the same place again - so the "menu peregrino". With serendipidy they can be good (and caring albergue hosts often produce great meals) but it is hit or miss.

Edited to add: my experiences are all pre-pandemic, and I am wondering if meal times have changed at all, due to lock-downs and curfews. Would be interesting to hear from those on the ground.

 

[Introvert Fab]

Introvert Fab,

To start off your collection of good stops for food peruse this earlier but still useful thread on the inexpensive Menu del Dia

Like many I have usually found that the good stops for daily meals on the camino are where locals eat.

These 3 favorites are still in business although I enjoyed them years ago

In Puente La Reina I often enjoyed a GREAT menu del dia at the
La Conrada restaurant at 17 Paseo de los Fueros, which parallels the camino on the south

Restaurante en Puente la Reina/Gares con Restaurante La Conrada

Somos un prestigioso restaurante situado en Puente la Reina/Gares, además contamos con personal cualificado en la preparación de comida tradicional.

www.restaurantelaconrada.com

Negreira. The local Cafe Bar Imperial had a VERY good and copious menu del dia.

Café Bar Imperial, Negreira

En el Café Bar Imperial, situado en el Camino de Finisterre - Muxía, llevamos más de treinta de años ofreciendo a nuestros clientes un ambiente tranquilo y agradable, una amplia y variada gama de platos combinados, raciones, vinos y un económico menú del día o menú del peregrino.

www.barimperial.es

Viana has many very good restaurants; one favorite and nearby the municipal albergue is the restaurant in the Palacio de Pujados hotel where local vintners seem to enjoy eating well as did I.

Our Restaurant | Hotel Palacio de Pujadas by Mij, Viana

Restaurant | Hotel Palacio de Pujadas by Mij | Viana, Spain

www.hotelpalaciodepujadasbymij.com

Buen provecho!

This is lovely! Thank you so much for taking the time to list your favorites. I can't wait to try everything!

 

[Introvert Fab]

In my experience Camino food can be a bit of a 'hit or miss' affair.
Specific recommendations are very hard, as establishments change, menus change, ownership changes.
We all also have very different tastes!

i.e. I had dinner in Santiago at a place (not cheap) that is recognised for its great food.
It was without doubt the worst meal of our whole Camino!

And one of the best meals we had was a Pilgrim Menu in a small cafe.
Great food, fresh produce, cooked with care and love! (Las Rocas)

Note! I mainly eat Pilgrim menus, before you go calling me a Tourigrino!
I found these over 3 Caminos

So with all that said..............I've had nice meals at:

Casa Sabina - Roncesvalles.
The Menu del Dia, that is served in the dining room off to the side of the bar.

Hostal Casa Sabina en Roncesvalles | Tu casa en Orreaga Roncesvalles

Hostal en Roncesvalles | Tu casa en Orreaga Roncesvalles

casasabina.roncesvalles.es

Meson Las Rocas in Vega de Valcarce
They own a cafe on the right side of the street and a casa Rural opposite.
Just the Pilgrim Menu.

Hotel O Cebriero in O Cebriero
The restaurant in through the back, behind the gift shop

Hotel O Cebreiro

Hotel Azofra - Burgoes
The place to go, for Slow Roast Lamb!
It's where the locals go I'm told. (Booking essential)
You'll recognise the courtyard opposite from the movie.....

Hotel Azofra | Burgos | Alojamiento al mejor precio | Web Oficial

Hotel muy cerca del centro de Burgos, Monasterio de las Huelgas, la Catedral de Burgos y el Museo de la Evolución Humana. Al mejor precio. Web Oficial.

www.hotelazofra.com

Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo - Carrion de los Condes
Really nice food in an amazing historic building.

Restaurante Las Vigas - Hotel Monasterio San Zoilo

sanzoilo.com

Great place to stay too. Very special.
It has it's own church and cloisters!

O Mirador - Portomarin

O Mirador - Restaurante en Portomarín

Restaurante en Portomarín. También contamos con cafetería y alojamiento en el Hostal El Padrino, todo en pleno Camino de Santiago.

omiradorportomarin.com

Restaurant is out the back with really nice water views.

Parador - Santo Domingo - The one next to the Church (there are two)

Gastronomía | Paradores de Turismo

www.parador.es

St Anton Abad - Villafranca Montes de Oca
Very nice Pilgrim Menu.
Lovely old building a bit like a Parador, without the cost!
It has a Hotel and an Albergue

Restaurante – Hotel San Antón Abad

www.hotelsanantonabad.com

Hotel Akerreta - Akerreta

Hotel Akerreta, hotel rural a sólo 10 km de Pamplona (Navarra)

Pequeño y acogedor hotel rural en Navarra, muy cerca de Pamplona. Perfecto para disfrutar de lo mejor de la geografía navarra y el Camino de Santiago

hotelakerreta.com

They only serve Hotel guests.

Calle del Laurel - Logrono
The well known Tapas 'Street'

If I think of any more, I'll add them in.

Oh, and my Camino Video this week is called 'Camino Food - The Complete Guide'
Rather than 'places' to eat, it covers the various food options / budgets.
I'll post it here in a few hours

Wow! Thank you! I'll check them all out.

 

[Introvert Fab]

My advice is to have your main meal between 2 and 4pm, as the locals do, and try to find a place where the locals eat. Pay for the slightly more expensive Menu del Dia, rather than the cheapest option. Then at night have a few tapas in a bar, rather than a whole meal.

Finding a place for the main meal, I have two strategies, one is to follow the workers who come out of the town hall or local bank, and see where they eat, the other is to accost a table in the plaza of women-of-a-certain-age, and ask them for recommendations. They always know the best places to eat.

Meals in the evening before 10pm are not planned for the locals, but for the tourists and pilgrims who will likely never eat in the same place again - so the "menu peregrino". With serendipidy they can be good (and caring albergue hosts often produce great meals) but it is hit or miss.

Edited to add: my experiences are all pre-pandemic, and I am wondering if meal times have changed at all, due to lock-downs and curfews. Would be interesting to hear from those on the ground.

Great strategy! Eat where the locals eat is what I like to do as well. It's my first Camino and I want to make the most of it.

 

[Introvert Fab]

A tapas bar crawl on Calle del Laurel is not to be missed! Each bar has its own specialty, along with other tapas.

Thank you! I'll be there for sure!

 

[Scott Fraser]

Hello! I am about to walk my first Camino in August and would love to get restaurant recommendations from more experienced pilgrims. I don't really care about Michelin stars, but I am a foodie and would love to know about the Camino's hidden gems. Can't wait to hear about your experiences! Thank you.

Two good restaurants in Santo Domingo de la Calzada - both on Calle Mayor near the cathedral: Los Caballeros, and just across the street, La Cancela. Much more upscale than your typical pilgrim eateries, but very good value.

 

[Darleen Taylor]

La Curiosa in Mansilla de las Mulas. Have eaten there on both of my walks on the Camino Francés

 

[lt56ny]

I have an alternative idea. You are going to meet people from all over the world. Many of them, especially when you are in a town with a well stocked grocery store will cook in the albergue. I have had fantastic Korean, Italian, Brasilian and Spanish , to name a few countries made with love and skill by our fellow pilgrims. On my first Camino almost 10 years ago there was a loose group of about 10 people who usually ended up in the same muni the last 3 weeks or so. There was a young couple from Barcelona that owned a small neighborhood restaurant in Barcelona. One night 4 of us went to dinner and had about the worst Paella imaginable. When we came back we were complaining in our albergue about the horror we called dinner. Carlos (I think that was his name, it was a while ago) laughed and he and his wife said tomorrow everyone give us 5 Euros and we will make you Paella that has been made in my wife's family for generations. WOWWWWWW! The next week or so they cooked 3 or 4 different Paellas and of course some tapas appetizers for us. I can still taste it.
But speaking of restaurants. A great New Yorker in 2018 took 8 of us to dinner in the Parador in Santiago.
I had only met him a couple of days before. I had the waiter order for me. He was so professional and so nice. The dinner was delicious. I have no idea of the cost but I am sure it must have cost at $1,000US minimum judging by the amount of wine we had! What a memorable night from a true camino food angel.

 

[Anniesantiago]

My favorite restaurant in Santiago is Tarara.
In Astorga, Casa Maragata is one of the best, in my opinion.

Restaurante Casa Maragata – Restaurante Casa Maragata Astorga

Along the Camino Frances, some of my BEST meals were in little hole-in-the-wall mom-and-pop restaurants.

 

[ccmay]

Hello! I am about to walk my first Camino in August and would love to get restaurant recommendations from more experienced pilgrims. I don't really care about Michelin stars, but I am a foodie and would love to know about the Camino's hidden gems. Can't wait to hear about your experiences! Thank you.

Hotel Pazo Santa Maria in Arzúa had the best pulpo (octopus) I’ve ever eaten. It’s a Galician specialty that we ate five or six times along the way, but no one did it as well as this place.

We enjoyed staying at this moderately upscale hotel too. A nice break from the crowds in the albergues as you get close to Santiago.

 

[ukjohn99]

Hello! I am about to walk my first Camino in August and would love to get restaurant recommendations from more experienced pilgrims. I don't really care about Michelin stars, but I am a foodie and would love to know about the Camino's hidden gems. Can't wait to hear about your experiences! Thank you.

I suggest that you simply go for the pilgrim meal wherever you can as you will usually be eating with other pilgrims that way. Because there was a deal on offer I did stay at the Paradors in Leon and Santiago. Both beautiful old buildings with lovely rooms. The breakfast at the Leon one was particularly memorable. Red wine was available for those who wanted it - mainly Spaniards I noticed - and it was the first time that I'd ever had caviar for breakfast - actually the only time that I've ever had caviar. It all made for a naughty treat and a change from sleeping in dormitories.

 

[DwainS]

In my experience Camino food can be a bit of a 'hit or miss' affair.
Specific recommendations are very hard, as establishments change, menus change, ownership changes.
We all also have very different tastes!

i.e. I had dinner in Santiago at a place (not cheap) that is recognised for its great food.
It was without doubt the worst meal of our whole Camino!

And one of the best meals we had was a Pilgrim Menu in a small cafe.
Great food, fresh produce, cooked with care and love! (Las Rocas)

Note! I mainly eat Pilgrim menus, before you go calling me a Tourigrino!
I found these over 3 Caminos

So with all that said..............I've had nice meals at:

Casa Sabina - Roncesvalles.
The Menu del Dia, that is served in the dining room off to the side of the bar.

Hostal Casa Sabina en Roncesvalles | Tu casa en Orreaga Roncesvalles

Hostal en Roncesvalles | Tu casa en Orreaga Roncesvalles

casasabina.roncesvalles.es

Meson Las Rocas in Vega de Valcarce
They own a cafe on the right side of the street and a casa Rural opposite.
Just the Pilgrim Menu.

Hotel O Cebriero in O Cebriero
The restaurant in through the back, behind the gift shop

Hotel O Cebreiro

Hotel Azofra - Burgoes
The place to go, for Slow Roast Lamb!
It's where the locals go I'm told. (Booking essential)
You'll recognise the courtyard opposite from the movie.....

Hotel Azofra | Burgos | Alojamiento al mejor precio | Web Oficial

Hotel muy cerca del centro de Burgos, Monasterio de las Huelgas, la Catedral de Burgos y el Museo de la Evolución Humana. Al mejor precio. Web Oficial.

www.hotelazofra.com

Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo - Carrion de los Condes
Really nice food in an amazing historic building.

Restaurante Las Vigas - Hotel Monasterio San Zoilo

sanzoilo.com

Great place to stay too. Very special.
It has it's own church and cloisters!

O Mirador - Portomarin

O Mirador - Restaurante en Portomarín

Restaurante en Portomarín. También contamos con cafetería y alojamiento en el Hostal El Padrino, todo en pleno Camino de Santiago.

omiradorportomarin.com

Restaurant is out the back with really nice water views.

Parador - Santo Domingo - The one next to the Church (there are two)

Gastronomía | Paradores de Turismo

www.parador.es

St Anton Abad - Villafranca Montes de Oca
Very nice Pilgrim Menu.
Lovely old building a bit like a Parador, without the cost!
It has a Hotel and an Albergue

Restaurante – Hotel San Antón Abad

www.hotelsanantonabad.com

Hotel Akerreta - Akerreta

Hotel Akerreta, hotel rural a sólo 10 km de Pamplona (Navarra)

Pequeño y acogedor hotel rural en Navarra, muy cerca de Pamplona. Perfecto para disfrutar de lo mejor de la geografía navarra y el Camino de Santiago

hotelakerreta.com

They only serve Hotel guests.

Calle del Laurel - Logrono
The well known Tapas 'Street'

If I think of any more, I'll add them in.

Oh, and my Camino Video this week is called 'Camino Food - The Complete Guide'
Rather than 'places' to eat, it covers the various food options / budgets.
I'll post it here in a few hours.

Thanks Robo, I've wrote all these down, they look great. I'am a chef so I've budgeted extra money for food. Food is a priority for me, ha ha.

 

[palmah]

Introvert Fab,

To start off your collection of good stops for food peruse this earlier but still useful thread on the inexpensive Menu del Dia

Like many I have usually found that the good stops for daily meals on the camino are where locals eat.

These 3 favorites are still in business although I enjoyed them years ago

In Puente La Reina I often enjoyed a GREAT menu del dia at the
La Conrada restaurant at 17 Paseo de los Fueros, which parallels the camino on the south

Restaurante en Puente la Reina/Gares con Restaurante La Conrada

Somos un prestigioso restaurante situado en Puente la Reina/Gares, además contamos con personal cualificado en la preparación de comida tradicional.

www.restaurantelaconrada.com

Negreira. The local Cafe Bar Imperial had a VERY good and copious menu del dia.

Café Bar Imperial, Negreira

En el Café Bar Imperial, situado en el Camino de Finisterre - Muxía, llevamos más de treinta de años ofreciendo a nuestros clientes un ambiente tranquilo y agradable, una amplia y variada gama de platos combinados, raciones, vinos y un económico menú del día o menú del peregrino.

www.barimperial.es

Viana has many very good restaurants; one favorite and nearby the municipal albergue is the restaurant in the Palacio de Pujados hotel where local vintners seem to enjoy eating well as did I.

Our Restaurant | Hotel Palacio de Pujadas by Mij, Viana

Restaurant | Hotel Palacio de Pujadas by Mij | Viana, Spain

www.hotelpalaciodepujadasbymij.com

Buen provecho!

Yes, the menu del dia - a step up from the pilgrim's menu.

 

[crhutch]

Hello! I am about to walk my first Camino in August and would love to get restaurant recommendations from more experienced pilgrims. I don't really care about Michelin stars, but I am a foodie and would love to know about the Camino's hidden gems. Can't wait to hear about your experiences! Thank you.

You will find great food all along the Camino. As others have suggested try to find those places where the locals go and don’t limit your self to the Menu de Peregrino, step up to the Menu del Dia. I may get some flack for this but… On the way to Belorado from Santo Domingo de la Calzada there is a restaurant in the town of Villamayor del Rio called Restaurante Casa Leon. It sits across the Camino on highway N-120. One could mistake it for a truck stop restaurant although it does look quite fancy. We had read in the Brierley guide that it was a popular restaurant that also sold local specialties. We decided to have lunch there. When we entered we noticed all the tables had white tablecloths and napkins. We left our backpacks in the front and went to the bar to ask for a table. The proprietor seemed to be rather aloof and not so interested in us. I was getting the idea that pilgrims were not his favorite clientele. Anyway after a few moments I asked him in Spanish if we could have lunch there. I could tell from the look on his face that he was in shock that a gringo like me spoke such good Castilian. His attitude quickly changed, he welcomed us in, sat us down to a nice table and brought us the menus. We ordered a la carte because there were many, many choices. We ended up having a pretty large lunch with an excellent wine. Truth be told if you check out the reviews about this restaurant you will find many bad reviews. Most are from pilgrims complaining about the owner’s callousness towards them. I think that my speaking Castilian and letting him know I was going to spend some money for lunch made the difference.

I’ve been to this restaurant three times now and the experience has always been good and I will continue to go back. As a foodie, I think you’d appreciate this place. As an aside if you look up the Spanish foodie Cesar Blue on YouTube (

) he has a show where he visits this restaurant. You can see some of the restaurants offerings.

One other place I’d recommend is Casa Pancho in Burgos. Great tapas!

 

[jerbear]

Open my heart....and the wonderful nourishment will find
I also enjoy what happenstance brings.
And i eat well.

 

[rdcalhoon]

What a great thread!

 

[Robo]

I just posted a video on food options, really a guide for beginners, here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-food-options-a-most-important-topic.70456/

 

[Isca-camigo]

The hotel restaurant Roma in Sarria, is very a highly recommend one, funnily enough I have never eaten there or am likely too, but people who live on the Camino who I know recommend it as one of the best restaurants, the reason I probably never go there is because there is Pulperia Luis in Sarria which is only open to 1630pm, and by the time me and my camigos stumble out into the street we are not up to having large meals elsewhere in the evening. Pulpo Luis in my opinion is definitely the best Pulperia on the Frances and of the other Caminos I have been on it is the the best one I have been too so far., But because Pulpo is not everyones cup of tea I will recommend the Restaurant Roma through the shear amount of people who point to it.
Everyone recommends Logroño as the place to have Tapas, but if you want to do do it old style with the complimentary tapa with your drink then either check out Pamplona or Ponferrada, most places along the CF will do complimentary tapas but these two places have a dizzying amount of plates on bars with tapas to pick from to go with your drink, it can make for a very convivial evening if your are in a group.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I second the restaurant be low the Roma Hotel in Sarria. I had dinner there in ‘16 and it was, without a doubt, one of the best meals of my life! Thanks, @Isca-camigo, for reminding me!

 

[Isca-camigo]

The only way I'm ever going to eat at Hotel Roma is if I turn up on a day Luis is shut, and that would be a Monday, and I always plan it so I don't go through Sarria on a Monday. I thought the Pandemic would negatively affect Luis and its customs of people sharing tables and plates etc , but I watched a video of it just before Xmas and it seemed they were just still doing what they have always been doing.

 

[Canada Wanders]

Great. Just great! Here I was, minding my own business, and opened this thread….and now I am hungry, and missing tapas and red wine!
My wife will not be pleased to find I have now opened a Spanish red on a week night!
Well done you all! I am going to be blaming all of you- some by name!

 

[Robo]

Great. Just great! Here I was, minding my own business, and opened this thread….and now I am hungry, and missing tapas and red wine!
My wife will not be pleased to find I have now opened a Spanish red on a week night!
Well done you all! I am going to be blaming all of you- some by name!

A Spanish Red is appropriate any night!

 

[C & W]

Bar Restaurant Casanova near Plaza Fueros in Estella was excellent. Also in Estella, fine pizza at Il Colosseo. Near the Cathedral in Santo Domingo, either Las Caballeros or La Cancela. If you are stuck in Atapuerca, try restaurant Cosmosapiens. El Meson in Castrojeriz. La Curiosa in Mansilla. Encomienda in Hospital de Orbigo.

 

[lt56ny]

Oh yea, one more thing about food. If you really do love food you can do a great camino from Le Puy in France, (there are some others). You probably will not eat in alot of restaurants but you will eat at Gites at night. Most nights the dinners (and the Breakfasts) WERE INCREDIBLE. Usually a salad course, cheese course, soup course, main course, desserts, fruits, vegetables, amazing French wine, and of course the greatest bread baked anywhere in the world. I have said this many times, I have had some wonderful dinners, communal and restaurant in Spain. But compared to eating at most of the Gites in France it is almost like McDonalds. It is not a knock on the Spanish restaurants but a testament to the wonders of the dinners on French Caminos. The fruits, vegetables and many of the the spices and often desserts were from the owners' gardens. You could eat until you burst. There was plenty of food and I never remember hearing there was not enough for seconds if you wanted some. Often with leftovers the hosts would make lunch to sell you at a very reasonable price. Breakfasts included lots of fresh coffee, marmalade, (often home made), butter baguettes, eggs, bacon or sausage, yogurt. Well the works. You would pay at least 10-12 euros in Spain for the breakfasts and without a doubt 60 or more Euros for the wonderful dinners. So for the price (in 2015) of between 25-35 Euros for a bed in a private home (no bunks and sometimes in the bigger bites, private rooms) dinner and breakfast it was the best bargain in Europe.

 

[Introvert Fab]

Thank you so much for all of you that took the time to share a little bit of your Caminos and wisdom. I took note of everything and will be back after my Camino to hopefully share my discoveries too.

 

[oursonpolaire]

My advice is to have your main meal between 2 and 4pm, as the locals do, and try to find a place where the locals eat. Pay for the slightly more expensive Menu del Dia, rather than the cheapest option. Then at night have a few tapas in a bar, rather than a whole meal.

Finding a place for the main meal, I have two strategies, one is to follow the workers who come out of the town hall or local bank, and see where they eat, the other is to accost a table in the plaza of women-of-a-certain-age, and ask them for recommendations. They always know the best places to eat.

Meals in the evening before 10pm are not planned for the locals, but for the tourists and pilgrims who will likely never eat in the same place again - so the "menu peregrino". With serendipidy they can be good (and caring albergue hosts often produce great meals) but it is hit or miss.

Edited to add: my experiences are all pre-pandemic, and I am wondering if meal times have changed at all, due to lock-downs and curfews. Would be interesting to hear from those on the ground.

kanga's advice above is excellent. To that, I would add minor suggestions--- in the medium-size and larger towns, where tourists can be found, do not eat on the main square, but around the corner or a street or two away, or in a smaller plaza. As well, avoid places with English and German menus. When asking the women of a certain age (or anybody, really) indicate that you are looking for food of quality, reflecting the region; otherwise they may just assume from your pilgrim garb that you are looking for something cheap.

Unlike North America, where hotel restaurants do not always justify their cost, Spanish hotel restaurants are often very good, especially in smaller centres.. Truckdrivers' cafés are usually good quality for the price, although you will do better in France with them, where the standard is good enough that there are guidebooks to them. However, my best meals were taken in small pueblos where one ends up eating with locals in a very family setting, where people seem anxious that you must try the specialties of the region. A special mention goes to the French locomotive drivers' vacation spot just east of Bilbao along the coasts where my Public Service Association of Canada union card got me to a splendid feast for 14 euro.

Seafood aficionadi will follow the del Norte of course, and ignore comments about how some pilgrims seem to like a Club Med Camino.

 

[dagreen]

As many have written, at lunchtime the menú del día often far superior to the pilgrims menú.
For specialties,


Pamplona- Chuleton, Pintxos, and Pacharán
Logroño-Pintxos in Calle Laurel
La Rioja Region- Bean Soups
Burgos- Morcilla, Cordero/Lamb, Cochinillo, Pintxos/Tapas, Alpargatas de Jamon
La Meseta- Sopa de Ajo y Sopa de Trucha
Leon- (Free) Tapas, Cecina and Chorizo
Astorga- Cocido Maragato
El Bierzo- Botillo
Galicia- Pulpo/Octopus, Caldo Gallego, Empanandas, Padron Peppers
O'Cebreiro- Caldo Gallego and Queso O'Cebreiro with Honey
Melide- Octopus
Santiago- Empanadas, Cockles, Clams, Mussels, Scallops, Zamburiñas, Calamares in all forms. Hit the market and eat there.

Jamon Iberico, Cafe con Leche, Bacalao, Cañas, Claras, Patatas Bravas, Carajillos, Calamares, Orujo, Tortilla Española and Tarta de Santiago are also favorites along the entire Camino Frances. Don't expect much from paellas in Navarra, La Rioja, La Meseta, El Bierzo or in Galicia. IMHO it's like ordering Shrimp and Grits in Utah.

 

[GerardT]

I ate quite well on my Camino in Oct/Nov 2022. One restaurant stood out above all others - in Burgos- Restaurante Sergi Vidal. Michelin rated, I believe. This is not a Tapas bar. This is a serious restaurant with a pretty serious wine list. I ordered a cut of beef. 5 minutes later, the server walks over to the table with the cut of beef before it was cooked to see if it was satisfactory for me. It was so good I ordered another one to share with the table. Amazingly good meal.

Do not need to be well dressed.

Also - Los Caballeros in Santo Domingo del Calzada.
Los Palmeros in Fromista

Thinking about it makes me want to fly back to Spain just to eat at Sergi Vidal again. Wouldn't be as fun without Montana though. Sure miss them!

 

[pepi]

Seconding these exceptional ones:

Santo Domingo, either Las Caballeros or La Cancela

El Meson in Castrojeriz

Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo - Carrion de los Condes

Plus:
Les Pyrénées SJPdP
Huarte: P: Asador Zubiando
Restaurante Prada A Tope León
Pizzeria Trastevere, Ponferrada (best Bistecca Fiorentina I've ever had!)
Astorga: Restaurante Serrano and Hotel La Peseta
Casa Teodora, Arzúa (great steaks)
Lavacolla: Hostal San Paio (in observation, as under new management), Rest. Ruta Jacobea
Mercado de Abastos (Food market) SdC, not to be missed!