Restaurant recommendations and warnings

[eamann]

I’d welcome feedback about good (and bad) restaurants on the Camino del Norte, on the section from Santander to the Camino Primitivo.

I do not mean “bourgeois” type restaurants that you find in the Guide Michelin. I am thinking rather of bars and restaurants which serve a tasty and wholesome “menú del día”, often regional dishes, a far cry from the typical “menú del peregrino” dished up so often on the Camino francés.

I’m posting a similar query on the Camino primitive forum.

I leave Santander for Santiago on Tuesday 3 May, God being willing.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

On the norte, in Santillana there is a restaurant called El pasaje de los nobles on the pedestrian area that serves a quality meal for about 10€. I had pote asturiano, tuna steak with watermelon and a decadent lemon mouse for desert, with house wine.

In San Vicente de la Barquera under the awnings where all the restaurants are, there is one with white and blue tile framinf the front door. It serves a great pote asturiano and grilled sardines.

In San Sebastian there are very famous pintxos places, A fuefo negro is one, the other is La cuchara de San Telmo. They are within 50 meters of each other but the entrance to La cuchara is on the back alley, by the church entrance on the plaza, not on the street itself.

Zarautz has a restaurant by a famous chef, Karlos Arguinano, facing the beach. He makes it a point to serve local produce at affordable prices. Also, after Zumai, if you take the traditional route and not the GR detour to see the flysh, in Elorriaga there is a little simple bar where the lady made me a beautiful grilled tuna steak and tomato salad and offered me a glass of txacoli from the vineyard from across the street.

 

[grayland]

I always am happy to just find an open place to eat at a decent hour.
I don't think I could keep a list of restaurant/bar handy enough to consult it when I stop.
Maybe eating has never been a problem for me on the various Caminos.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

The Borres bar make good combinados and will make you something to take on the road the next day.

In San Roman de Retorta, at O Candido, the hospitalero also oens a restaurant in town, or has ties to it. You pick what you want to eat when you arrive, he puts in the order, goes off to collect it at the restaurant. It's a very good meal. Also, he has an "On your honor" policy, leaving snacks and drinks in a refrigerator si you can help yourself and settle in the evening or next morning. Who d'else does that these days?!

 

[eamann]

Thank you Anemone!

I will certainly check out the various addresses you have given me, starting with Santillana next Tuesday!

I hope your example will encourage others to share their tips / warnings too!

 

[eamann]

Maybe eating has never been a problem for me on the various Caminos.

Thank you Grayland for taking time to read my post and reply. I think you may have misunderstood me. It is not a "problem". But for me enjoying a wholesome meal, savouring traditional dishes and local wines, if possible with friends, is an important part of my Camino experience.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

And let me point out that I did "recommend" meals at 5-10€, not Michelin started restaurants as was peopeosed by someone else on the forum this summer.

 

[Isca-camigo]

You will spend some time in Asturias, sidre and their ritualised way of drinking it is a great way to share meals and meet people.Llanes, Vilaviciosa and Oviedo are places best to drink it, lots of good bars/restaurants competing against each other offering very good value 9-12 euros, wander the streets and see what the places are doing on the day and how popular they are with the locals. I will only recommend one place for your journey and it is in Melide, the pulperia Ezekiel. I have eaten in the other pulperia places and there is no way they match this place for quality or atmosphere, for people coming off the Primitivo its a great way keep your links and share a meal with your camino amigos, before you become submerged into the flow of the Frances.

 

[mspath]

One handy way to find spots with a good menu del dia in an unexplored location is to eat where the road workers, police, and lorry drivers go. Such a spot centrally located on the rua Codeseira in Melide is the bar/restaurante/pension Sony. Great food, friendly service, low prices and much macho atmosphere!!

 

[eamann]

I will only recommend one place for your journey and it is in Melide, the pulperia Ezekiel.

Thank you! I ate there already when I walked the Camino francés.

 

[eamann]

road workers, police, and lorry drivers go

Thanks for taking time to reply! I always try and do that!