Reporting back from the Cami St. Jaume from Llançà to Montserrat

[Felice]

I have just returned from a wonderful 2 weeks of walking through the Catalan countryside on the Cami St. Jaume from Llançà in the Costa Brava, to Montserrat. I had a marvellous time. The scenery was great, walking was good, the wild flowers were amazing whilst the bird song just bubbled away in the background the entire time. I have never seen so many superb Romanesque monuments before. There was no litter on the trail, no overcrowding, no rush for beds and no aggro about sharing a path on the only day when I came across lots of cyclists.

Inspiration for the trip was sparked by a post by peregrino2ooo - Laurie - who wrote about the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes, sometime last autumn. She then wrote up her Cami St. Jaume, which persuaded me that there was nothing to prevent me from doing the trip myself, on my own. So a very big THANK YOU to Laurie for her imput. It is much appreciated.

Actually, as I walked the route that Laurie took, I became very aware that she must be superwoman. Not only did she walk big distances, but she then spent time visiting museums and churches. The energy she has is incredible.

Laurie's post provides a very good account of the route, and links to her wikiloc trail and the official website were all I needed to get going. However, I want to add a little to the knowledge of the route, to encourage others to walk. You see, despite all its wonderful plus points, the route lacks one thing - pilgrims. Hopefully over the next few days I add a few updates, observations and suggestions that will help others to walk this lovely route.

 

[Felice]

First observation I want to make is a practical one - bring a Catalan dictionary!!!

Catalan is the language in the area. People speak it, signs are written in it. They speak 'Spanish' as well, but conversations are dotted with Catalan words too, I suspect.

It's quite fun guessing words - like tancat means shut, dilluns is Monday, an omelette is a truita whilst salad is amanida. Often the menu is in both Spanish and Catalan which gave me a good start, but then came the time when I went into a busy restaurant and the menu was only in Catalan, and the waitress was rushed off her feet. How I could have done with the dictionary at that point!

 

[Felice]

Accommodation.
As Laurie's notes mention, this is not a cheap camino.

There are only 2 pilgrim albergues, from what I can make out - one at Bonmati just west of Girona, and the one at Montserrat. I was charged 6 euros at Montserrat, and much to my surprise after Laurie's comment, the dorms are no longer single sex, neither are the washrooms. They do provide blankets but not pillows.

There are quite a few hostels along the route at:
Llançà: Hostal Costa Brava (booking.com)
Figueres: Hostal Figueres tel + 34 630 68 05 75 (hostelworld.com)
Girona: Room in Girona (hostelworld.com)
Sant Esteve d'en Bas: Allberg de la Vall d'en Bas (albergvallbas.cat)
Vic:
- Seminari Vic Allotjaments (single bed or room via hostelworld.com)
- Alberg Canonge Collel (single bed via xanascat.cat, tel +34 938 89 49 38), (whole rooms via booking.com)
Manressa: via xanascat.cat

I tried to stay at Sant Esteve on a Sunday night. The website was really slow, but I managed to book eventually, only to receive an email a few days later to say that they were closed on the Sunday night, could I do Monday instead? Shame as it looked like a nice hostel.
Alberg Cononge Collel and Manressa are both youth hostels. The xanscat website is dreadfully slow and unresponsive at times.

None of these places is 'cheap' - 15 euros min, even 20 euros, but still less expensive than the alternatives. I stayed at Hostal Figueres and it was lovely and clean, good sturdy beds, nice kitchen, washing facilities, sheets and duvet provided, towel available to rent.

The alternative is a hostal, fonda or hotel. Away from the cities, in small towns and villages, I paid about 25 euros for a single room, sometimes with a bathroom, sometimes without. In mid to late May, the places were always nearly empty. I was met with almost uniform kindness and consideration. Only 1 place, which was slightly off route, was offhand and indifferent, and my suspicion is that the staff were not local.

For what it's worth, I stayed at:
Llançà: Pensio Restaurant Llançà (where Laurie stayed) 23 euros. I would have stayed at the hostel but was worried about arriving too late for their check in time.
Figueres: Hostelfigueres 18 euros via hostelworld
Bascara: Pension Fluvia 25 euros without bath, +34 972 56 00 14. The email address on the website does not work.
Girona: Ibis Budget (!!!!) 35 euros well in advance
Amer: Fonda Giralt 25 euros with bath. +34 972 43 00 45. Nice evening meal.
Les Presses (just north of Sant Esteve) 30 euros
L'Esquirol: Hostal Collsacabra. 20 euros with bath
Vic: Alberg Canonge Collel, 29 euros for a very large room with bath, with 3 beds. Sheets but no towels.
Santa Maria d'Olo: Hotel Santa Maria 25 euros
Navarcles: Hostal Muntane, 25 euros, tel +34 938 31 04 40
Sant Vincenc de Castellet: Hostal Ca La Irene, 25 euros

For late May, there was absolutely no need to have booked in advance.
However, prices in Girona and Vic do seem to rise the nearer it gets to the stay.
If I walked again, I would not prebook, but would definitely have done my homework to know what my options were. There is definitely not accommodation in every village that you walk through.

 

[Castilian]

They speak 'Spanish' as well, but conversations are dotted with Catalan words too, I suspect.

Not really. When they speak Castilian, they speak Castilian and when they speak Catalan, they speak Catalan. Sometimes some people that aren't too used to speak in Castilian may say inadvertently a word or two in Catalan when speaking in Castilian but that's not a problem for understanding. In fact, if you put a I didn't understand face, they'll (usually) realize another word is used in Castilian and will try to recall which one is.

 

[Felice]

Not really. When they speak Castilian, they speak Castilian and when they speak Catalan, they speak Catalan. Sometimes some people that aren't too used to speak in Castilian may say inadvertently a word or two in Catalan when speaking in Castilian but that's not a problem for understanding. In fact, if you put a I didn't understand face, they'll (usually) realize another word is used in Castilian and will try to recall which one is.

I think that was exactly what was happening in a couple of conversations I had. The odd word here or there that sounded out of place. Maybe 'dotted' was too strong a word to use - would 'sprinkled very slightly' be more appropriate?

 

[LTfit]

Good for you Felice!
I met Laurie in Monserrat (I walked from Barcelona) and we continued north via Huesca en San Juan de la Peña then did the Aragónes together. I agree @peregrina2000 is a superwoman!

 

[Felice]

LT, in her account of her walk, Laurie mentions that you found the climb up to Montserrat one of the hardest you had ever done. Can you recall which way you went? Thankfully, I took the gentle route!

 

[Felice]

The 'official' guide to the Cami St. Jaume can be found here: http://www.camidesantjaume.cat/descargas/guia_port_selva-jonquera-montserrat_ESP.pdf
Some of the stages are quite long. Laurie mentions this in her account of her walk, (see https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-cami-st-jaume-from-llançà-to-montserrat.36051/).
If, like me, you have problems with walking 30km when it is hot, then there are ways to cut the days down in length.

The first stage from Llanca to Figueres is a horror - 30km, including a 600m climb and descent, a fantastic monastery to visit, a Romanesque cloister and a Romanesque church. Laurie suggests splitting it in 2 by staying at the Hostal Xavi in Vilajuiga. However, when I went past last month - twice, once at 9am on a Monday morning and once at 4pm on a Tuesday - the shutters were all down and the place looked very shut. Might just be holidays, but check carefully if you intend to stay there. Google maps suggests that there is a nice B&B in Pau which would be an alternative. Another option would be to use the train and spend 2 nights in either Llanca or Figueres. The fare is only 2.50 euros. If you spend a second night in Llanca, then there is no need to take a full rucksack with you when you tackle the hill! The second half of the walk is flat so much easier.

The third stage Bascara to Girona is also over 30km long. The only definite hotel along the way is the Hotel Restaurant Mendinya (+34 972 49 80 00). It's beside the main road, part of a petrol station complex. I was going to stop at the cafe there for a drink, but I decided I needed to push on. There were several trucks parked in the vicinity, so it's possibly a truck stop, but that would not be a reason to discount it at all. An alternative would be to catch the bus into Girona, from either Cervia de Ter or Medinya. The timetable can be found here: http://www.ampsa.org/img/L'Estartit-Girona.pdf
A third option would be to try one of the alojamientos rurales in the area. I get the feeling that they are what we call 'holiday cottages' in the UK, ie the entire property is let at once, either for a week or for a weekend. But it has been suggested in several places that owners can be very kind and let pilgrims have a single bed for the night, if the property is not occupied. Worth a phone call the day before.
If you do take the bus from Cervia or Medinya, dont be tempted to leave out the section as it looks dull from the bus. The Camino winds its way beside the river for several kilometres and is quite delightful.

Heading out of Girona along the lovely carillet, there are lots of options as to how the route is divided up. Might be worth considering staying at the municipal alberg in Bonmati that just happens to be about 15km out of Girona. It's very small - only 3 beds, with pilgrims going to Santiago being given preference. You also have to ring up in advance. Information is here: http://www.stjuliabonmati.com/guia-del-poble/equipaments-publics-2/alberg/

There is the Romaneque Monastery of Sant Pere de Casserres which is well worth visiting but it is off the Camino. Laurie did a really long day in order to take it in, and then took a taxi back to Vic. Just after crossing the bridge at Roda de Ter, I noticed a signpost indicating that the Parador was 9km away in one direction and Vic was 10km in another. Had I not got accommodation booked in Vic, I would have headed off and spent a night in the Parador, then walked into Vic the next day (20km).

The remaining long stage - out of Vic - is a real problem. It is 21km to L'Estany with its gorgeous Romaneque monastery, but there is nowhere to stay there apart from 2 alojamientos rurales and an expensive apartment connected with the monastery. The only hotel in the area is in Santa Maria d'Olo, which is 10km further on the route, making it a long 31km day. There is a bus from L'Estany to Santa Maria d'Olo, but is leaves at 11.15 or 20.10.
Even if it is possible to stay at L'Estany, the next day present problems as there is no hotel in Artes, 22km away, with Navarcles being the next place with hotel accommodation. There is, however, a frequent bus service between Artes and Navarlces.
The only possible solution is a bus from Vic to Santa Eulalia at 8.15 on weekdays in term times which cuts 8km off the total for the day and maybe makes it a more manageable 23km.

 

[Felice]

I knew this would happen - life got busy and I got sidetracked! Couple more thoughts on the route.

Manresa. Laurie mentions that she thought two of the towns that she passed through were well worth a longer visit and Manresa was not one of them. My husband and I drove through the southern suburbs of the town in Sept 2015, and I did not like what I saw. There were several places where I know that I would not feel at all comfortable, were I to walk there on my own even during daylight.

So when it came to planning my walk, I went for the alternative option of bypassing the town. It made sense from a safety point of view and Navarcles to Sant Vincenc fitted perfectly with my daily distance preference. It is actually a pleasant walk too. After the turnoff for the town centre, the (signed) path continues down the tarmac country lane, then along a farm track then along a forest track before meeting up with the main route.

Manresa's main claim to (pilgrimage) fame is the cave where St Ignatius stopped for a year on his way back from Montserrat in 1522.

 

[peregrina2000]

I have just returned from a wonderful 2 weeks of walking through the Catalan countryside on the Cami St. Jaume from Llançà in the Costa Brava, to Montserrat. I had a marvellous time. The scenery was great, walking was good, the wild flowers were amazing whilst the bird song just bubbled away in the background the entire time. I have never seen so many superb Romanesque monuments before. There was no litter on the trail, no overcrowding, no rush for beds and no aggro about sharing a path on the only day when I came across lots of cyclists.

Inspiration for the trip was sparked by a post by peregrino2ooo - Laurie - who wrote about the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes, sometime last autumn. She then wrote up her Cami St. Jaume, which persuaded me that there was nothing to prevent me from doing the trip myself, on my own. So a very big THANK YOU to Laurie for her imput. It is much appreciated.

Actually, as I walked the route that Laurie took, I became very aware that she must be superwoman. Not only did she walk big distances, but she then spent time visiting museums and churches. The energy she has is incredible.

Laurie's post provides a very good account of the route, and links to her wikiloc trail and the official website were all I needed to get going. However, I want to add a little to the knowledge of the route, to encourage others to walk. You see, despite all its wonderful plus points, the route lacks one thing - pilgrims. Hopefully over the next few days I add a few updates, observations and suggestions that will help others to walk this lovely route.

Hi

I have just returned from a wonderful 2 weeks of walking through the Catalan countryside on the Cami St. Jaume from Llançà in the Costa Brava, to Montserrat. I had a marvellous time. The scenery was great, walking was good, the wild flowers were amazing whilst the bird song just bubbled away in the background the entire time. I have never seen so many superb Romanesque monuments before. There was no litter on the trail, no overcrowding, no rush for beds and no aggro about sharing a path on the only day when I came across lots of cyclists.

Inspiration for the trip was sparked by a post by peregrino2ooo - Laurie - who wrote about the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes, sometime last autumn. She then wrote up her Cami St. Jaume, which persuaded me that there was nothing to prevent me from doing the trip myself, on my own. So a very big THANK YOU to Laurie for her imput. It is much appreciated.

Actually, as I walked the route that Laurie took, I became very aware that she must be superwoman. Not only did she walk big distances, but she then spent time visiting museums and churches. The energy she has is incredible.

Laurie's post provides a very good account of the route, and links to her wikiloc trail and the official website were all I needed to get going. However, I want to add a little to the knowledge of the route, to encourage others to walk. You see, despite all its wonderful plus points, the route lacks one thing - pilgrims. Hopefully over the next few days I add a few updates, observations and suggestions that will help others to walk this lovely route.

Hi, Felice,

I just saw this post as I was searching through the Cami Catalan forum. I was walking when you posted it. So glad you had such a good time, it is a really gorgeous route. And the info you have added is very helpful. Breaking up some of those long stages can be a problem, but you've got some creative ideas there! I wonder if there are others who are thinking about this route, it is a gem.

Buen camino, Laurie

P.s. I agree with your idea about the Vic parador. The detour I took to the monastery, off camino, was really nice (though hard) and had the totally unexpected bonus of those ancient sacrificial and burial sites. Spending an afternoon in the Vic parador, then walking the short way into Vic the next day and spending the rest of the day at the museum, etc., would be a great two-day alternative that would remove the taxi part of the journey.

 

[AshIreGal]

Accommodation.
As Laurie's notes mention, this is not a cheap camino.

There are only 2 pilgrim albergues, from what I can make out - one at Bonmati just west of Girona, and the one at Montserrat. I was charged 6 euros at Montserrat, and much to my surprise after Laurie's comment, the dorms are no longer single sex, neither are the washrooms. They do provide blankets but not pillows.

There are quite a few hostels along the route at:
Llançà: Hostal Costa Brava (booking.com)
Figueres: Hostal Figueres tel + 34 630 68 05 75 (hostelworld.com)
Girona: Room in Girona (hostelworld.com)
Sant Esteve d'en Bas: Allberg de la Vall d'en Bas (albergvallbas.cat)
Vic:
- Seminari Vic Allotjaments (single bed or room via hostelworld.com)
- Alberg Canonge Collel (single bed via xanascat.cat, tel +34 938 89 49 38), (whole rooms via booking.com)
Manressa: via xanascat.cat

I tried to stay at Sant Esteve on a Sunday night. The website was really slow, but I managed to book eventually, only to receive an email a few days later to say that they were closed on the Sunday night, could I do Monday instead? Shame as it looked like a nice hostel.
Alberg Cononge Collel and Manressa are both youth hostels. The xanscat website is dreadfully slow and unresponsive at times.

None of these places is 'cheap' - 15 euros min, even 20 euros, but still less expensive than the alternatives. I stayed at Hostal Figueres and it was lovely and clean, good sturdy beds, nice kitchen, washing facilities, sheets and duvet provided, towel available to rent.

The alternative is a hostal, fonda or hotel. Away from the cities, in small towns and villages, I paid about 25 euros for a single room, sometimes with a bathroom, sometimes without. In mid to late May, the places were always nearly empty. I was met with almost uniform kindness and consideration. Only 1 place, which was slightly off route, was offhand and indifferent, and my suspicion is that the staff were not local.

For what it's worth, I stayed at:
Llançà: Pensio Restaurant Llançà (where Laurie stayed) 23 euros. I would have stayed at the hostel but was worried about arriving too late for their check in time.
Figueres: Hostelfigueres 18 euros via hostelworld
Bascara: Pension Fluvia 25 euros without bath, +34 972 56 00 14. The email address on the website does not work.
Girona: Ibis Budget (!!!!) 35 euros well in advance
Amer: Fonda Giralt 25 euros with bath. +34 972 43 00 45. Nice evening meal.
Les Presses (just north of Sant Esteve) 30 euros
L'Esquirol: Hostal Collsacabra. 20 euros with bath
Vic: Alberg Canonge Collel, 29 euros for a very large room with bath, with 3 beds. Sheets but no towels.
Santa Maria d'Olo: Hotel Santa Maria 25 euros
Navarcles: Hostal Muntane, 25 euros, tel +34 938 31 04 40
Sant Vincenc de Castellet: Hostal Ca La Irene, 25 euros

For late May, there was absolutely no need to have booked in advance.
However, prices in Girona and Vic do seem to rise the nearer it gets to the stay.
If I walked again, I would not prebook, but would definitely have done my homework to know what my options were. There is definitely not accommodation in every village that you walk through.

Hi,
I so appreciate all the information.
Throwing a quick update.
Llanca alberge €24
Figures alberge €24
Bascara ...full on Thursday (start of Easter fiesta)..so gave up and first time on a Camino, took a bus to Girona. Telephoned all hostels, Fonda's, and all penisons in the catalyuna book. All full. With help a nice Hondorus lady, who took me under her wing, ended up in Salt, cheapest accommodation for Holy Thursday was €36, and although old couple who owned the hotel were super cute and friendly, unfortunately one of beds was super dirty, the room was freezing and normal smelliness of an old building. Won't name the place, as I was delighted to be not taking a bus back to Figueres.
Friday was Good Friday, and via Verde was jam packed with Bici, Bici, Bici. Again I telephoned every single place in Sant Esteve, and all FULL. The alberge were friendly and I called in today to thank the lady for trying to help.
I then attempted Sant Felliu, and on the third call, the KIND and super nice and well travelled lady of Fonda a REC, said she wasn't really there, but would be back late if that ok, and I got a Fab nights sleep there for €20. I would highly recommend.
Walked towards L' Esquirol today, but the route on the brilliant GPS track from Laurie, seems to be altered to a Road version ... I went a km or 2 downhill and then turned back.. and followed the GPS route... No yellow arrows, all have been removed and the way was difficult to find without the GPS. I also have the ordinance survey maps of area downloaded and then really helped, give me confidence to read the route.
As a result, I was alot later than I expected...and when I arrived at the junction with the Bar at the main road I had a coffee.. and long story, they helped me find a place in a bar called Roira Snack Bar . Again €36, and I was warned it would be freezing as at top of apartment and no heating. After thinking on this.. its cold and raining, I again thought to give in and just go to VIC by the bus passing in 2 hours.
..but VIC is super expensive for tonight also, and I feel lack of accommodation is turning this into a Camino by autobus than a Camino by foot
The lovely people at this coffee offered alternative.. that they were going to Rota when service finished and there is a hostal there for €30. I accepted, as sleeping in VIC tonight or tomorrow for under €50 is not easy to find. I'm now in Rota, and the room is very simple, but sheets clean and the radiator is on at a low temperature. The next few days are also problematic with Santa Maria d'olo full. It's a day by day planning at the moment... But without the kindness of people, I would have had alot of difficulty. As Easter will finish by Sunday, but georges day is on Tuesday... I think 2019 May is Full, Full, Full.

 

[Vacajoe]

We walked Montserrat to Manresa in April 2018 - I found the walk glorious and stayed at a very clean and safe youth hostel in the downtown area. We spent the next day exploring the town and never felt threatened or worried about our safety.

As the final stop on the Ignatian Camino, a visit to the cave of St Ignatius was worth the time (I am a Catholic) as are the other church and museum stops there.

Everyone has a different comfort level, but at least consider spending the day there.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi,
I so appreciate all the information.
Throwing a quick update.
Llanca alberge €24
Figures alberge €24
Bascara ...full on Thursday (start of Easter fiesta)..so gave up and first time on a Camino, took a bus to Girona. Telephoned all hostels, Fonda's, and all penisons in the catalyuna book. All full. With help a nice Hondorus lady, who took me under her wing, ended up in Salt, cheapest accommodation for Holy Thursday was €36, and although old couple who owned the hotel were super cute and friendly, unfortunately one of beds was super dirty, the room was freezing and normal smelliness of an old building. Won't name the place, as I was delighted to be not taking a bus back to Figueres.
Friday was Good Friday, and via Verde was jam packed with Bici, Bici, Bici. Again I telephoned every single place in Sant Esteve, and all FULL. The alberge were friendly and I called in today to thank the lady for trying to help.
I then attempted Sant Felliu, and on the third call, the KIND and super nice and well travelled lady of Fonda a REC, said she wasn't really there, but would be back late if that ok, and I got a Fab nights sleep there for €20. I would highly recommend.
Walked towards L' Esquirol today, but the route on the brilliant GPS track from Laurie, seems to be altered to a Road version ... I went a km or 2 downhill and then turned back.. and followed the GPS route... No yellow arrows, all have been removed and the way was difficult to find without the GPS. I also have the ordinance survey maps of area downloaded and then really helped, give me confidence to read the route.
As a result, I was alot later than I expected...and when I arrived at the junction with the Bar at the main road I had a coffee.. and long story, they helped me find a place in a bar called Roira Snack Bar . Again €36, and I was warned it would be freezing as at top of apartment and no heating. After thinking on this.. its cold and raining, I again thought to give in and just go to VIC by the bus passing in 2 hours.
..but VIC is super expensive for tonight also, and I feel lack of accommodation is turning this into a Camino by autobus than a Camino by foot
The lovely people at this coffee offered alternative.. that they were going to Rota when service finished and there is a hostal there for €30. I accepted, as sleeping in VIC tonight or tomorrow for under €50 is not easy to find. I'm now in Rota, and the room is very simple, but sheets clean and the radiator is on at a low temperature. The next few days are also problematic with Santa Maria d'olo full. It's a day by day planning at the moment... But without the kindness of people, I would have had alot of difficulty. As Easter will finish by Sunday, but georges day is on Tuesday... I think 2019 May is Full, Full, Full.

Hi, Aisling,
Your cautionary tale is a good one. I walked in early June, I believe, and never had any problems finding a place to stay. Semana Santa/Holy Week is one of the busiest travel times of the year in Spain, and I think many of us from the US forget that. It is bad enough on the routes with lots of pilgrim albergues, but on a route like this one, with no albergues and lots of tourists, you just can’t and hope to find a place to stay in Holly Week it seems. (This reminds me of things others have said about walking the Vasco Interior in high summer, when there are tons of hikers and tourists and few places to stay, and only a few pilgrim albergues).

When you say the path into L’esquirol has been altered to a road track, can you elaborate? Do you mean the arrows take you away from the Cami Real? This would be a horrible shame, it is such a gorgeous route.

I am sorry that this route is giving you so many lodging problems, but you certainly seem to be taking it in stride. I think I would have bailed a few days ago! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[AshIreGal]

Hi Laurie..
Yes, without gps routes I would have have had alot of trouble.
My photo files are too large to upload it seems, but I have taken photos at all the tricky spots.
So I left at Sant Esteve d'Bas alberge.. and all the signs want you to go the Via Verde to the right. I followed GPS to the left onto the route.
Went through lovely els hostalets d'en bas...all good. Lovely shop and cafe across from church.
Found turn up to right eventually to Cami rad (Vic route). At this point there were 8 tourist hikers also stuck in wikiloc looking for where they wanted to go. Too many routes and signs that everyone seems confused.
All was good on the Rocky road route up to the fountain.. at which point, 2 Spanish tourists (lost I imagine), climbed up over the edge of the side of road, clawing onto tree branches etc.. they had followed wikiloc, as crow flies to this holy fuente...

Then I arrived finally to open park and field area at the top of hill, and as really breezy descended down the path and came out at the entrance to L'Hostalot.
Nice bench so had my lunch, and set off on road following arrow for maybe 500m. At which point there was a sign post with lots of routes... One route which I took to be the Vic Cami pointed in through the gates of what looked like a farm...
But there were yellow arrows pointing go straight ahead..so I did.. main road lead downhill, and was a route for lots of cyclists.. I took phone out and noticed GPS route was completely different ...so I backtracked to that sign with multiple routes... I followed through the 'gate'... And kept going crossing a second gate the was one of the Cami signs. After that no more arrows till I arrived out the other side a few hours later at cliffs of aiats / coma Joan.

There was a yellow X at one stage, but all traces of yellow arrows seemed to be removed. Even on the trees. Towards the end of route there were red white signs...

And looking back, as I finally exited the way, there is a BIG yellow arrow pointing into the path for this ridge. There was a local couple camping at the open space under cliffs. They pointed me down the road and then to go to rupkit and then to l'esquirol.
Thankfully, I didn't follow blindly, as I would have missed the sign post with 3 ways to get to VIC Cami.. the GPS route was the only was to know that I should leave road and follow small path into the right.

Before Bescara, I followed yellow paint signs and off the GPS track and they left into a wood with a road to start with and numbered signs. Then the forest had multiple roads and no signs. The ordance survey maps I had downloaded helped me eventually to get out the other side... But my lesson learnt was not to follow the catalunya signs blindly.

I may bail yet Laurie.. but when it is good it is great ... If I didn't have to worry about signs and sleeping, the scenery is amazing, and people are friendly.

 

[Felice]

My experience at the farm gate was exactly the same as yours. There was one of those posts just up the road - about 4 or 5 metres - but nothing on the farm gate. That was where I was so glad to have had Laurie's wikiloc trail. Felt odd walking through the farm yard, but the sign on the far gate was reassuring.

I went wrong somewhere further on as well - took the sign for a chapel that had the camino logo on it, but it was a diversion not the main track. Went at least a km downhill (down steep hill!) before I realised I was wrong, but rather than retrace my steps, I could see from the map that I could get out another way.

I walked in May, I think, and had booked accommodation in advance, which was totally unnecessary as most places were almost empty. So different to Easter week, obviously.

The via verde is indeed a cyclists heaven. I was on it on a Sunday, but the traffic was quite low thankfully, otherwise it would have been no fun.

Lessons to pass on:
Don't walk in Easter week unless you book well in advance.
Have wikilocs for the stretch to L'Esquirol
Don't walk the via verde at the weekend or a public holiday unless you lose being overtaken by cyclists all the time.
Walk in May/June when the weather is kinder and the flowers are fantastic.

Hope the rest of your walk is easier.

 

[AshIreGal]

My experience at the farm gate was exactly the same as yours. There was one of those posts just up the road - about 4 or 5 metres - but nothing on the farm gate. That was where I was so glad to have had Laurie's wikiloc trail. Felt odd walking through the farm yard, but the sign on the far gate was reassuring.

I went wrong somewhere further on as well - took the sign for a chapel that had the camino logo on it, but it was a diversion not the main track. Went at least a km downhill (down steep hill!) before I realised I was wrong, but rather than retrace my steps, I could see from the map that I could get out another way.

I walked in May, I think, and had booked accommodation in advance, which was totally unnecessary as most places were almost empty. So different to Easter week, obviously.

The via verde is indeed a cyclists heaven. I was on it on a Sunday, but the traffic was quite low thankfully, otherwise it would have been no fun.

Lessons to pass on:
Don't walk in Easter week unless you book well in advance.
Have wikilocs for the stretch to L'Esquirol
Don't walk the via verde at the weekend or a public holiday unless you lose being overtaken by cyclists all the time.
Walk in May/June when the weather is kinder and the flowers are fantastic.

Hope the rest of your walk is easier.

Well, just because reading others accounts has been so useful... I'm going to write what I ended up doing. So today is Easter Sunday.. quiet around VIC early in morning, when I arrived in.. I headed to tourist office. The man was in strange form ...helpful to others but I would describe the tourist man in office in VIC as arrogant. I may have been sensitive today but ended up in tears with his approach. L'estany he told me to check had accommodation in monastery. Not so . Monastery directs you to rural accommodation and that is seriously expensive. I went to a lovely cafe, and tried to get my head together. Santa Maria had accommodation but that was a further 27km and it was now after 12. I tried to see if it was possible to take a bus 10km out. It was ...but not until Monday morning. I tried to get a bus to Manresa in the end, but that would take 5 hrs... (Sunday and limited service). The lovely people in cafe across from a church on the way in, offered to drive me even though it was 40min out of their way, once they closed the cafe. (Photo below)
Anyways..I hadn't thought about Barcelona... Had never been there, so with about 5 min to spare I ran to train station and paid €6 for train to Barcelona.. and got amazing hostel in super fancy 6 bed female dorm for €17 and tomorrow night €13..{it will Rain hard tomorrow and Tuesday is St. Georges day).

Laurie..used the word BAIL in a post to me.. and bet she didn't realise at the time that this word would point me in the direction of Barcelona. But it was just the word I needed for today. Sometimes, life should be easy.. and in the end the sollution to finding a bed, was super easy.. from reading your post and now researching LT posts, I can walk to Monserette from Barcelona... Or take train and then walk from Monserette to VIC in reverse when the holiday season had came to an end. Thank you all sincerely.

The walk this morning from Rota to VIC, was lovely... Saw rabbits and a young deer literally ran about 5m up to me through the fields and then looked up in fright...and went in reverse.

 

[Tamsin Grainger]

Oh I am so nervous about tomorrow after reading all your posts. I am really unfamiliar with GPS. Should I try?

 

[AshIreGal]

Oh I am so nervous about tomorrow after reading all your posts. I am really unfamiliar with GPS. Should I try?

oh 100% - GPS is a gamechanger. I can use a compass/paper maps etc in Ireland, but just look up Wikiloc and hit follow. It will allow you to relax. Remember as well, that 'it will work out', but you do need to ask. I'm brutal at making decisions ahead of time, so my planning problems were my own fault. Sit down and have a nice Spanish coffee and book a few days...I cannot remember where - but I had to later get a lift to another town and got a cheap 'available' place to stay (€20), and there were a few unusual accommodation spots along the way. The Monastery at the end will make it worth it. (and Manressa as well)

 

[Tamsin Grainger]

oh 100% - GPS is a gamechanger. I can use a compass/paper maps etc in Ireland, but just look up Wikiloc and hit follow. It will allow you to relax. Remember as well, that 'it will work out', but you do need to ask. I'm brutal at making decisions ahead of time, so my planning problems were my own fault. Sit down and have a nice Spanish coffee and book a few days...I cannot remember where - but I had to later get a lift to another town and got a cheap 'available' place to stay (€20), and there were a few unusual accommodation spots along the way. The Monastery at the end will make it worth it. (and Manressa as well)

Thank you for your encouragement. It's the Sant Esteve to L'Esquirol I am tackling tomorrow and mentions of the Wikiloc trail not being there is my worry

 

[VNwalking]

Thank you for your encouragement. It's the Sant Esteve to L'Esquirol I am tackling tomorrow and mentions of the Wikiloc trail not being there is my worry

There is another possible option, Tamsin. Two days between Sant Esteve and L'Esquirol via Rupit. Less intensity of climbing.
Here's where to start, if you are interested:

I would like to walk Sant Esteve to L'Esquirol over two days, via Rupit. This is much less of a grade but slightly longer overall although divided into two days instead of one. Map to follow tomorrow.

Okay, here is my map of routes from Sant Esteve to Rupit. It has two overlays, @peregrina2000 truncated route from Sant Feliu to L'Esquirol (Green colour) and the Catalonia Friends of the Camino stage from Sant Esteve to L'Esquirol (Red colour). I suspect that Laurie's map came about by following the Catalonian Friends because they are very similar until Laurie's got truncated (perhaps by losing battery power).

I have drawn two routes, the first is a full route from Sant Esteve to Rupit coloured in Purple. This route starts at the Albergue in Sant Esteve and then initially follows the other two routes until those two routes start to climb. At that point the purple route goes off to join the road (C-153). It follows C-153 until close to Rupit and then heads off-road again so that people get to see the countryside. This route is the least steep ascent.

I then followed this route along the road parts using G Maps street view and although it starts well with a nice berm to walk along so that we would be off the sealed road itself, as soon as it starts climbing and turning we lose the berm and although the road probably isn't that busy I think that it starts to get a bit dangerous on some of the corners if we were to meet traffic.

With this in mind, I went back and drew an alternate (partial) route (Blue) that starts off from @peregrina2000 's map before it climbs but continues off road and around the highest hills so that it is not as steep as Laurie's/Friends of Camino but is a little bit steeper than the road route. The other nice thing about this Blue route is that I was able to route it past a café/bar that sits alone out in the hills, presumably waiting for hikers to come past. This route is probably now my preferred route. It is less steep than the recommended route, it goes to Rupit rather than L'Esquirol, is off-road, has a lunch stop and is doable in a Doug day. It is about 17-18klms long.

Please note that the four pictures underneath the map show the relative incline/decline for each track. They are not quite comparable because @peregrina2000 's track is much longer and the Blue route starts at the steep part. This makes the Blue route look steeper than it is on its own. You might need to take my word for it being less steep.

Picture below:

We're can stay at Fonda Marsal http://www.fondamarsal.cat/habitacions.

In the meantime, I have re-drawn the alternates around Sant Esteves a bit better and added on the route that you suggested from Rupit to L'Esquirol (Green colour, 13klms), see map below. When I re-drew the Blue route properly, from Sant Esteve to Rupit I was able to get a better distance, it is just over 16klms (16.2). I can make this map available if anyone wants it.

 

[Tamsin Grainger]

There is another possible option, Tamsin. Two days between Sant Esteve and L'Esquirol via Rupit. Less intensity of climbing.
Here's where to start, if you are interested:

This is a very kind gesture. I have to arrive in L'Esquirol as someone has offered me a sofa, so I will take a route there. I appreciate all your work more than I can say. Thank you all for helping me.

 

[VNwalking]

Good luck with the way!
If you have an offline map app like osmand or maps.me, they can also finf your route. Alan Sykes described quite an 'interesting' day, but mentioned no wayfinding challenges.

After several days of relative flat, the camino leaves the lovely d'en Bas valley to go up a cliff. I got to els Hostalets d'en Bas at around 8.30 and was delighted to find a bar open for breakfast, and surprised to find it full of middle aged men, most of whom were drinking red wine with their tostadas. I didn't join them as there is around 800m of ascent to do, 500m of it in just 2km. Which was hard work, but very lovely as well. Some of the trees were already in their autumn glory, and of the rest, mostly "leaves look pale, dreading the winter's near". Nearing the high ground the reward for the hard work (scrambling in places where it was too steep or slippery to walk) was spectacular views down over the valley, and back towards the snowy Pyrenees, looking very pretty. The higher ground was a mixture of pasture with lazy cows and their musical bells, and "forests ancient as the hills, enfolding sunny spots of greenery". Just lovely.

 

[Felice]

Thanks for reminding me - the day from Sant Esteve where I spent a night, to L'Esquirol, was probably my best day of the walk. The way up from L'hostelets d'enBas was absolutely lovely, then the pastures and views above were glorious.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for reminding me - the day from Sant Esteve where I spent a night, to L'Esquirol, was probably my best day of the walk. The way up from L'hostelets d'enBas was absolutely lovely, then the pastures and views above were glorious.

Totally agree with you about this, @Felice. That was a beautiful walk. I also remember a segment that walked along a valley with a view of a fairly serious escarpment (at least I think that’s the word!).

 

[RhysB]

Hi I am considering Vic to Monserrat in 4 days, is it relatively well marked?