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Recent feedback from the Salvador

PaulBurger

New Member
Some feedback from a recent walk along the Camino del Salvador route.
We (my wife & I) started in Leon on the 30th of April and walked to Oviedo in 6 days. We stayed in the municipal albergue in La Robla (great); albergue in Poladura de la Tercia (not great); albergue de peregrinos in Pajares (great); albergue in Denbuenos (really great!); albergue de peregrinos in Mieres (ok but out of town in not such a nice area).
We had great walking weather - cold but clear. The route has some absolutely beautiful paths but also more road than I expected. Some of the paths are quite overgrown so there is a fair amount of skirting fallen trees.
We use the guide by Enders - perfect and we never got lost (except in Oviedo!) funnily we bumped into him in Oviedo and shook his hand and told him how appreciative we were on the guide.
I was expecting less people - there were probably 10+ people walking the same route with us daily. We had to book ahead for for food in Poladura and also book for Denbuenos for bed/food. Definitely not crowded but not solitary either.
Lots of up and down! We kept our stages under 26 km as this is comfortable for us and although it is quite tough, it is easily manageable. We took a rest day in Oviedo and then walked another 8 days of the Primitivo. Then my time ran out....
With the exception of the road sections before Buiza and after Campomanes to Ujo, I would rate this as one of the most beautiful routes I have done.
But - the section we did on the Primitivo - blew my mind with its beauty as well. Tough to choose between them....
 
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Thanks, @PaulBurger, it’s always great to hear from Salvador peregrinos. I agree with you on your albergue assessment. I have never stayed in the one in Poladura — twice I have walked straight through to Pajares from Pola de Gordón and once I confess to having splurged on a room in the Posada de Embrujo, which is quite comfy. I know the camino angel group in the vicinity has done work on the Poladura albergue, and I think conditions have improved somewhat from what they were before, but it sounds like they are not the best. With the big increases in numbers on the Salvador (it will be crowded in summertime, I’m sure — last year bed crunches were routine in August), maybe some more places will be opening.

Such a glorious route, hope the weather cooperated for you. If pressed, I would probably say that the day from Pola de Gordón to Pajares is the most beautiful day of any camino I have walked.
 
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I agree - that was the highlight. Especially with the coffee stop at the alto Pajares to recover from the long upwards walk. And the absolutely fabulous alburgue in Pajares to end with. What a view down the valley with snow capped mountains in the distance.
Your comment made me wonder — what’s going on at the Puerto Pajares? Last time I was through, the bar on the right side had been closed because of a fire, with promises to reopen. And the white elephant former parador on the left side had signs of life. I have since heard, I think, that someone bought the building, had re-opened the bar and was renovating the hotel to open it again. The view from the balcony was incredible, but the building itself none too charming. Thanks for any update you might have! Buen camino, Laurie
 
Your comment made me wonder — what’s going on at the Puerto Pajares? Last time I was through, the bar on the right side had been closed because of a fire, with promises to reopen. And the white elephant former parador on the left side had signs of life. I have since heard, I think, that someone bought the building, had re-opened the bar and was renovating the hotel to open it again. The view from the balcony was incredible, but the building itself none too charming. Thanks for any update you might have! Buen camino, Laurie
Hi Laurie,
Was just wondering when you last walked the Salvidor
We walked it last year..in June ....and thank heavens we had all the wonderful info from your PDF and Ender!!
The cafe at the Puerto pajaras on the right hand side was open as was the cafe at the Parador on the left hand side of the road going upwards
Best wishes
Annette
 
Hi Laurie,
Was just wondering when you last walked the Salvidor
We walked it last year..in June ....and thank heavens we had all the wonderful info from your PDF and Ender!!
The cafe at the Puerto pajaras on the right hand side was open as was the cafe at the Parador on the left hand side of the road going upwards
Best wishes
Annette

I last walked the Salvador in 2016. Hoping to be back, but not sure when that will be.

I think I remember that you are walking the Invierno soon, is that right? When are you starting there, because I suppose there is a chance you will meet up with VN and Sabine, or maybe you guys have already figured that out. Sorry to the OP for derailing the thread, We’ll keep it back on the Salvador now, I promise!
 
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I last walked the Salvador in 2016. Hoping to be back, but not sure when that will be.

I think I remember that you are walking the Invierno soon, is that right? When are you starting there, because I suppose there is a chance you will meet up with VN and Sabine, or maybe you guys have already figured that out. Sorry to the OP for derailing the thread, We’ll keep it back on the Salvador now, I promise!
Hi Laurie
We start from Ponferrada on 24th June but I think that VN and Sabine will be ahead of us
We hope to get into Santiago on Sat 6th where we've already booked a pension ...so hopefully a half day in Santiago plus Sunday to mooch around ...I will try and find out if VN and Sabine will be there then
I would like to see Ivars place plus Pilgrim house and maybe SY Sykes
All our times in Santiago, I never knew of these places

I'll have to let himself find a bar though instead of traipsing around after me!!
I understand that you will be walking another Camino this year .??Olviado
I'll be keeping an eye out for your reports on that, and maybe think about it for next year
Many thanks for all your help and reports

Apologies to the OP also.
Annette
 
Your comment made me wonder — what’s going on at the Puerto Pajares? Last time I was through, the bar on the right side had been closed because of a fire, with promises to reopen. And the white elephant former parador on the left side had signs of life. I have since heard, I think, that someone bought the building, had re-opened the bar and was renovating the hotel to open it again. The view from the balcony was incredible, but the building itself none too charming. Thanks for any update you might have! Buen camino, Laurie
Hi Laurie, there were cars parked outside the Parador hotel and there was a sign up advertising accommodation but we did no go and visit it. It did look like there was activity though. The bar on the right was open and served a good coffee and various items to eat. It was biting cold - we spent 1/2 an hour inside and then headed up the hill. My wife - who was the one who takes pictures - is still in Spain doing a hospitalero stint may have taken a picture - i will check with her.
 
Some feedback from a recent walk along the Camino del Salvador route.
We (my wife & I) started in Leon on the 30th of April and walked to Oviedo in 6 days. We stayed in the municipal albergue in La Robla (great); albergue in Poladura de la Tercia (not great); albergue de peregrinos in Pajares (great); albergue in Denbuenos (really great!); albergue de peregrinos in Mieres (ok but out of town in not such a nice area).
We had great walking weather - cold but clear. The route has some absolutely beautiful paths but also more road than I expected. Some of the paths are quite overgrown so there is a fair amount of skirting fallen trees.
We use the guide by Enders - perfect and we never got lost (except in Oviedo!) funnily we bumped into him in Oviedo and shook his hand and told him how appreciative we were on the guide.
I was expecting less people - there were probably 10+ people walking the same route with us daily. We had to book ahead for for food in Poladura and also book for Denbuenos for bed/food. Definitely not crowded but not solitary either.
Lots of up and down! We kept our stages under 26 km as this is comfortable for us and although it is quite tough, it is easily manageable. We took a rest day in Oviedo and then walked another 8 days of the Primitivo. Then my time ran out....
With the exception of the road sections before Buiza and after Campomanes to Ujo, I would rate this as one of the most beautiful routes I have done.
But - the section we did on the Primitivo - blew my mind with its beauty as well. Tough to choose between them....
Paul, thanks for the great feedback! My brother, friends and I plan to walk a hybrid of the CF/Salvador/Primitivo in the next Holy Year and your review is most helpful. My impression has been lodging options are few on the Salvador were sparse. Did you have alternatives for the not so great places?
 
Holoholo automatically captures your footpaths, places, photos, and journals.
I agree - that was the highlight. Especially with the coffee stop at the alto Pajares to recover from the long upwards walk. And the absolutely fabulous alburgue in Pajares to end with. What a view down the valley with snow capped mountains in the distance.
I’m definitely filing this for future reference, thanks!
 
We finished Camino SAN Salvador last Friday. It was harh ( We are 70+76) but the most beautiful Camino. There were 7 people going SAN Salvador at the same time. I think that even allergens in Poladura was ok. After that you could appreciate better ones. Highly recommended if you are in good fitt and you have only one week to walk.
 
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Thanks for the information. Setting off early September so it is good to know best places to stay.
 
Some feedback from a recent walk along the Camino del Salvador route.
We (my wife & I) started in Leon on the 30th of April and walked to Oviedo in 6 days. We stayed in the municipal albergue in La Robla (great); albergue in Poladura de la Tercia (not great); albergue de peregrinos in Pajares (great); albergue in Denbuenos (really great!); albergue de peregrinos in Mieres (ok but out of town in not such a nice area).
We had great walking weather - cold but clear. The route has some absolutely beautiful paths but also more road than I expected. Some of the paths are quite overgrown so there is a fair amount of skirting fallen trees.
We use the guide by Enders - perfect and we never got lost (except in Oviedo!) funnily we bumped into him in Oviedo and shook his hand and told him how appreciative we were on the guide.
I was expecting less people - there were probably 10+ people walking the same route with us daily. We had to book ahead for for food in Poladura and also book for Denbuenos for bed/food. Definitely not crowded but not solitary either.
Lots of up and down! We kept our stages under 26 km as this is comfortable for us and although it is quite tough, it is easily manageable. We took a rest day in Oviedo and then walked another 8 days of the Primitivo. Then my time ran out....
With the exception of the road sections before Buiza and after Campomanes to Ujo, I would rate this as one of the most beautiful routes I have done.
But - the section we did on the Primitivo - blew my mind with its beauty as well. Tough to choose between them....
Thank you very much for your post. That's exactly the stages I'm planning to do, God willing, mid June after I walking from SJPdP... What made the albergue in Poladura not great, if you don't mind my asking, is there only one Albergue there? What are the stages you did in the Primitivo? I have 13 days there to get my butt to Santiago... :) Thanks again for sharing this!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
The only complaint I have about the alburgue in Poladura is the bathroom. There is one for men and one for ladies. The single small room has the basin, shower and toilet in. Only one person at a time can use it and it got very wet inside from he shower/steam. The beds were good, there was a room downstairs with some chairs and tables. (and another toilet). Given that this is pretty much the only place to stay - I would stay there again. It was not so bad, just not great.
 
Some feedback from a recent walk along the Camino del Salvador route.
We (my wife & I) started in Leon on the 30th of April and walked to Oviedo in 6 days. We stayed in the municipal albergue in La Robla (great); albergue in Poladura de la Tercia (not great); albergue de peregrinos in Pajares (great); albergue in Denbuenos (really great!); albergue de peregrinos in Mieres (ok but out of town in not such a nice area).
We had great walking weather - cold but clear. The route has some absolutely beautiful paths but also more road than I expected. Some of the paths are quite overgrown so there is a fair amount of skirting fallen trees.
We use the guide by Enders - perfect and we never got lost (except in Oviedo!) funnily we bumped into him in Oviedo and shook his hand and told him how appreciative we were on the guide.
I was expecting less people - there were probably 10+ people walking the same route with us daily. We had to book ahead for for food in Poladura and also book for Denbuenos for bed/food. Definitely not crowded but not solitary either.
Lots of up and down! We kept our stages under 26 km as this is comfortable for us and although it is quite tough, it is easily manageable. We took a rest day in Oviedo and then walked another 8 days of the Primitivo. Then my time ran out....
With the exception of the road sections before Buiza and after Campomanes to Ujo, I would rate this as one of the most beautiful routes I have done.
But - the section we did on the Primitivo - blew my mind with its beauty as well. Tough to choose between them....
Agree with you totally.
 
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Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
I’ve got a purple one of those, did you get it from Ender? And as far as the name goes, I really don’t think there’s any problem with using any one of those terms, so long as the word Salvador is in the name. You will see all of them used in different places.

Laurie, I doubt it was Ender......I arrived about 8pm last July and hospitalero plus 1 were looking after all pilgrims. I think if it was Ender there would have been some conversation about experience on the way. Yes, I am happy to have the scarf, although unlikey to wear here in Ireland!
Maybe purple is from year ??? Go on, look at those old pilgrim passports!
 
My plan is to walk Salvador and Primitivo this summer. Arrive in Madrid 19th of June. How is Salvador to walk alone? Are there many peregrinos on the path?
// Anette from Sweden
 
My plan is to walk Salvador and Primitivo this summer. Arrive in Madrid 19th of June. How is Salvador to walk alone? Are there many peregrinos on the path?
// Anette from Sweden

Hi, Annette,

Welcome to the forum! Lots of us have walked the Salvador and many would say it’s the most awesome of all.

I’ve walked the Salvador several times, twice alone. Female in mid 60s, no problems, lots of jaw-dropping moments. There should be a decent group of peregrinos in June. I know that last summer things got really quite crowded, but you are going before high season so you should be fine. Have you seen Ender’s guide (I’ve translated it from Spanish into English, so not speaking Spanish is not a problem)? It’s really all you need for the Salvador.


Buen camino, Laurie
 
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Hi, Annette,

Welcome to the forum! Lots of us have walked the Salvador and many would say it’s the most awesome of all.

I’ve walked the Salvador several times, twice alone. Female in mid 60s, no problems, lots of jaw-dropping moments. There should be a decent group of peregrinos in June. I know that last summer things got really quite crowded, but you are going before high season so you should be fine. Have you seen Ender’s guide (I’ve translated it from Spanish into English, so not speaking Spanish is not a problem)? It’s really all you need for the Salvador.


Buen camino, Laurie

Thank you so much 👣❤️
 
Hi to All,

there are 10-15 pilgrims around and about 12 in an albergue at the moment (Payares).

Cheers
DonCamino
 
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