Pyrenees V O'Cebreiro

[LesBrass]

Hello folks - when I walked in September I started at Roncesvalles but weather permitting in April I plan to start from SJPdP, stay at Orrison overnight and then go onto Roncesvalles the next day.

Out of curiosity how does the walk from SJ to Roncesvalles compare with the walk up to O'Cebreiro? I was very nervous of O'Cebreiro but actually found it not too bad... but I'm sure I'd walked myself into fitness at that stage.

Also how does the walk down to Roncesvalles compare with the walk down to Molinaseca? If there was any part of the walk that I really did not enjoy it was this stage so I'm hoping that Roncesvalles isn't as bad?

many thanks as always!

 

[Mark Lee]

I've walked to Roncesvalles on both routes (Napoleon and Valcarlos) from SJPdP. Neither was all that bad. Of course in April you probably have more of a chance of snow and other nasty weather than I had. If the weather's good and you take your time, it's a good walk. Before you know it you are in Roncesvalles. The second time I stopped in Roncesvalles only for a beer and continued on to Burguete.
I really don't even remember either time I walked up to O'Cebreiro or down to Molinaseca, other than I don't like loose rocks downhill.
I really took my time when walking both Caminos. I was never really in a rush to get anywhere.

 

[A. Narciso]

The weather might be the biggest challenge between SJ and Roncesvalles. The solitude is way bigger in this stretch than in the one to the Cebreiro. You will walk 18Kim's without crossing a single house (Napoleon route). Therefore you need to carry more water and food. In our opinion this ones are the biggest differences. By the way we were lucky and we got a wonderful sunny day in the beginning of May when crossing from France to Spain
Buen Camino LesBrass!

 

[SYates]

I personally found the stage SJPDP to Roncesvalles the most difficult one of my whole pilgrimage and I was surely fit by then. We had dry and sunny weather, but also very strong winds for most of the climb. And with strong I mean so strong that I had sometimes difficulties to keep my balance. The weather when climbing O Cebreiro was worse, but as the way is less exposed, I found that stage easier. Breaking the climb up and staying in Orrison is surely a good idea, I couldn't do it because they just had closed for the season a day earlier.
Buen Camino! SY

 

[wayfarer]

I took the Valcarlos route to Roncevalles and didn't find it that bad. By the time we reached O'Cebreiro we were fighting fit and took the climb in our stride. Both days were wet.

 

[Agnogel]

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...yrenees-for-the-not-so-fit.28995/#post-242589 Here is a post i did on my camino

 

[scruffy1]

Hi, if you have walked faithfully since SJPP, you won't even understand what the racket around O'Cebreiro is all about.

 

[wayfarer]

I think the climb I found the hardest was Alto de Mostelares, 910 mts, some parts at an incline of 10 degrees. This is between Hontanas and Itero de la Vega. It was short but sharp and we had several stops on the way up but the views from the top were beautiful.

 

[Olivares]

The section SJPDP- Roncesvalles is challenging and harder than the climb to O'Cebreiro. The key is to go slow, take breaks, do not EVER, EVER compete or try to pace with somebody else. EVER. Follow your own pace. I also second the advice to take the right after Collado Loepeder; 4 kms before Roncesvalles. The descent into Zubiri was very challenging as well, although the descent into Molinaseca was worse. I still remembered crossing the Puente de la Rabida upon arrival to Zubiri and sitting on a concrete boulder about to passed out. It was brutal. The descent path to Molinaseca was worse, but I was wiser, and took it slow and rested more often. When I crossed the Roman Bridge upon arrival to Molinaseca, I was feeling great and felt so proud.

 

[jmcarp]

I think the climb I found the hardest was Alto de Mostelares...

I would agree with that. It was short, but nevertheless a killer climb.

 

[jmcarp]

...The key is to go slow, take breaks, do not EVER, EVER compete or try to pace with somebody else. EVER. Follow your own pace...

That should be printed in boldface, large type. It applies not only to the two climbs in question, but a general reminder whether going uphill, downhill, or walking on level ground.

 

[jmcarp]

@Lise T ...I would add those steps at Portomarin that are in your avatar picture, especially after a long day of walking from Sarria while suffering with plantar fasciitis

 

[Wanderer64]

Others make good points. Once you reach O'Ceb, you will be so fit you will wonder what all the fuss was about.

Weather wise, each section has issues to be aware of, especially in the off season. I did the Frances in August and didn't see more than a few drops of rain the entire 32 days.

Ascetically, there's no comparison for me. The walk over the Pyrenees from SJPDP to Roncesvalles was a sublime walking experience, full of bucolic splendor and serene vistas, not to mention the lack of commercial activity. This section was among the most physically challenging, but easily the most rewarding.

I found the approach to O'ceb nice enough, but, for me, the town was a tourist trap, overpriced, crowded, noisy, and if I walked Frances again I would keep walking through to the next available lodging in the next town.

 

[LesBrass]

Wow... thanks for so many great replies!

Some of you may know I ducked out of the climb from SJPdP in September and walked from Roncesvalles to Santiago... I must admit each time I climbed up one of the other hills that I'd read about I felt a sense of pride in my acheivement and also a pat on the back that it was never as bad asI had thought it would be. Most of my fellow pilgrims who walked with me all said that SJ - Roncesvalles was the hardest stage and I always felt I should have started from there.

Your comments have kind of reassured me... I'm preparing and learning what to expect. I will book into Orrison, it seems a good stop-off point... I've driven there before and had a drink but then drove back down to SJ and onto Roncesvalles.

I'll just keep my fingers crossed and hope for reasonable weather... good enough for me to do the walk. Very excited at the prospect of walking again soon.

thanks for your commetns again lovely people

 

[val255]

I think the climb I found the hardest was Alto de Mostelares, 910 mts, some parts at an incline of 10 degrees. This is between Hontanas and Itero de la Vega. It was short but sharp and we had several stops on the way up but the views from the top were beautiful.
View attachment 15268
View attachment 15269

That village in the background is Castrojeriz.

 

[Bajaracer]

The ascents out of St. Jean Pied de Port, Castrojeriz, and up to O'Cebreiro are nothing compared to the brutal rocky descents to Zubiri and Molinaseca, I had planned to walk from Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada, that descent made me call it a day when I got to Molinaseca, now I know why I saw all those Taxi Luis Molinaseca signs from Cruz de Ferro all the way down to Molinaseca.

 

[wayfarer]

That village in the background is Castrojeriz.

It is indeed Castrojeriz, there is a bar/cafe there where we stopped for lunch and the place is covered with banknotes from around the world.

 

[wayfarer]

The ascents out of St. Jean Pied de Port, Castrojeriz, and up to O'Cebreiro are nothing compared to the brutal rocky descents to Zubiri and Molinaseca, I had planned to walk from Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada, that descent made me call it a day when I got to Molinaseca, now I know why I saw all those Taxi Luis Molinaseca signs from Cruz de Ferro all the way down to Molinaseca.

After a dissapointing stop at Cruz de Ferro the walk down to Molinaseca was one of the best and most memorable walks of the Camino, we too stayed in Molinaseca but only because we stopped at the cafe by the river over the old bridge and met some friends there. We spent the whole afternoon talking and laughing, it was a great day.

 

[scruffy1]

It is indeed Castrojeriz, there is a bar/cafe there where we stopped for lunch and the place is covered with banknotes from around the world.

The Taverna made famous by Hape Kerkeling I presume?

 

[Stivandrer]

I have fond memories of even the hardest parts of the Camino. Going up to O´Cebreiro is forever imprinted in my mind like climbing an eternal staircase with fifty lorries having dumped rock rubble down the shaft, and a flood of mud passing through, and then the blissfull release of getting to the top and into the sunlight and the racing clouds !!
This is how your mind changes; and then the dissapointment of meeting a hospistalero in O´Cebreiro who refused to open the top floor in the Albergue without any explanation. Turned out he had a hand in the lodge next door and I had to spend 40 Euros on a cold bedchamber instead.
It´s the mind that plays tricks on us, not the landscape.
Always expect the unexpected, someone said. You will need this heads up in the end of the day..
Oh there it is, you can tell yourself..Here is the hurdle. I did not see that coming..
But there it is, what are you going to do about it...
Ay there is the rub....

 

[wayfarer]

The Taverna made famous by Hape Kerkeling I presume?

I had not heard of him but it makes sense now as a group of Germans were at the bar talking to the owner and he was showing them photos and someones signature on a book, they had their photos taken then.

 

[scruffy1]

I had not heard of him but it makes sense now as a group of Germans were at the bar talking to the owner and he was showing them photos and someones signature on a book, they had their photos taken then.

Thats the one! He does a tremendous supper as well!

 

[camino-david]

I think that the main reason that the route from St Jean to Roncevalles is hard is that this is the first stage for many people and they are not so fit and strong as later on . I agree that taking the turning to the right down to Roncevalles from the top as described above is a good idea. Later on the climb up to O'Cebreiro will seem easy, especially as it is shorter.

 

[tpmchugh]

Hello folks - when I walked in September I started at Roncesvalles but weather permitting in April I plan to start from SJPdP, stay at Orrison overnight and then go onto Roncesvalles the next day.

Out of curiosity how does the walk from SJ to Roncesvalles compare with the walk up to O'Cebreiro? I was very nervous of O'Cebreiro but actually found it not too bad... but I'm sure I'd walked myself into fitness at that stage.

Also how does the walk down to Roncesvalles compare with the walk down to Molinaseca? If there was any part of the walk that I really did not enjoy it was this stage so I'm hoping that Roncesvalles isn't as bad?

many thanks as always!

I too bypassed Route Napolean and started from Pamplona March 2013, because of snow closing both routes to Roncesvalles leaving only the road open. Like you I am returning to start from St Jean April 15th. What date are you planning to start

 

[tpmchugh]

Hi LesBrass, just checked the 'events' and see we both arrive in St Jean on the 14th. Hope we meet up. Have you booked the night at Orrison yet. I e-mailed them a few days ago but have not yet heard back from them. Buen Camino

 

[Icacos]

What one must do on some of these ascents and descents is stop and have a bit of chocolate, especially if it can be shared with a fellow peregrino. It is amazing what chocolate, shared chocolate especially, can do for a flagging soul.

 

[tpmchugh]

The Taverna made famous by Hape Kerkeling I presume?

Anyone know why it was closed Sept 2013

 

[jujuaway]

Hello folks - when I walked in September I started at Roncesvalles but weather permitting in April I plan to start from SJPdP, stay at Orrison overnight and then go onto Roncesvalles the next day.

Out of curiosity how does the walk from SJ to Roncesvalles compare with the walk up to O'Cebreiro? I was very nervous of O'Cebreiro but actually found it not too bad... but I'm sure I'd walked myself into fitness at that stage.

Also how does the walk down to Roncesvalles compare with the walk down to Molinaseca? If there was any part of the walk that I really did not enjoy it was this stage so I'm hoping that Roncesvalles isn't as bad?

many thanks as always!

My two favourite parts of the camino were climbing over the Pyrenees and walking up to O'cebreiro . There was no one around, beautiful landscape and the odd cow. At one point, i dropped my pack and danced, free form for 10 minutes for the shear joy of being there, being alone and being alive......... enjoy, enjoy.

 

[rickster]

If I had walked from SJPdP towards the end of the journey, I would have rated them about the same. I found the walk over the Pyrenees more difficult for me because it was my first camino, my pack was at its heaviest, I mistakenly tried to keep up with others, I hadn't had any sleep in 3 days (jet lag,
heavy duty snoring in SJPdP). By the time I reached O'Cebreiro, I was in good shape, learned to walk at my own pace and my pack was about 30% lighter and I had acquired some "sticks" in Pamplona that made a huge difference. Same thing happened to me on the del Norte......first day was horrendous, pack too heavy (I'm a slow learner), took the more difficult route up the mountain and didn't take it slowly enough.

 

[Robo]

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...yrenees-for-the-not-so-fit.28995/#post-242589 Here is a post i did on my camino

An interesting if worrying account for one who is obviously a gym junkie like me and of similar age and physique

I'm not sure why, but I really like the idea of starting in SJPDP and the challenge associated with that first day. I just hope 'she who must be obeyed' will not want a divorce half way up

But I do have a Plan B and a Plan C just in case either of us really struggle. No point in screwing up the whole journey because of injuries on day 1....

 

[david g]

As Niels Hee Andersen said, it's all in the mind. I found SJPD to Roncesvalles to be easier than O'Cebreiro, probably due to the excitement and adrenaline rush of that first day. At O'Cebreiro I was certainly more physically fit, but that day a little more mentally tired. As for the steps at Portomarin- there was a gentleman slowly going up the left side, a woman slowly going up the right side. It had been an extremely long day and mentally I was pretty well spent. I saw no choice but to run up the middle, followed by a little Rocky Balboa dance at the top. I've come to believe that "where the mind leads, the body will follow".

 

[Walter1407]

Two months into my pilgrimage I crossed the Pyrenees on the Napoleon route. I had spent the night in Honto (about 400 metres higher up than SJPP), and it was an overcast, sometimes drizzly day. The track is such that I could walk at a good, regular rhythm. The descent to Roncesvalles was difficult, as the track was wet and slippery. There was a small road to which I changed for part of the descent. - O'Cebreiro I climbed on a very hot day; the track was choppier than up the Pyrenees. The main "problem" for most of us seemed to be that one can see the top from very far away; we were walking, walking, walking ... and just didn't seem to get closer.