Portuguese or VDLP

[Waka]

I'm starting to put together a plan for next years camino, I've already completed the CF.
I have all the info from the forum and the guide books for both the Portuguese and the VDLP, but just can't make up my mind.
So for those pilgrims that have done both of these routes, which one would you recommend?

 

[LesBrass]

I've mused the same question over and over... I'll be very interested to read the replies!

 

[Levi]

Me too...trying to decide for autumn this year..

 

[SYates]

After reading through the forums here I decided on the VdlP, perhaps for the simple reason that I speak Spanish but not Portuguese. But most likely because it was the Camino that called me most this year. Buen Camino, SY

 

[peregrina2000]

I've walked both and very much enjoyed both, and I think you should just plan to walk them both -- then making the decision for 2016 becomes easier.

But here are a couple of considerations
-- how many days do you have to walk this year? The Portugues is shorter from Lisbon than the Vdlp from Sevilla.

-- what time of year are you walking? I would avoid the Vdlp in summer or even September, starting in Sevilla, but from Lisbon to Santiago in summer you will not likely get those killer temperatures.

--do you want to visit a lot of monumental cities? If so, then Vdlp probably wins out, with Sevilla, Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Zamora, and Ourense. The Portugues has its share of great stops -- Lisbon and Porto are both very enjoyable places to spend a few days, the old university town of Coimbra is very nice, the Roman ruins in Conimbriga are definitely worth a visit, the Convento to Cristo in Tomar is wonderful.

-- does asphalt really bother you? The amount of asphalt on the Portugues has been decreasing as the local groups are opening up new alternatives but there is more asphalt on the Portugues than the Vdlp, I would say.

-- are you monolingual? Many more people in Portugal speak English than in Spain, but in small towns in both countries you are likely to have to rely on hand gestures and google translate if you don't speak Spanish or Portuguese. (If you speak Spanish, you can make yourself understood in Portugal, but you will probably not understand a word of the response when they speak Portuguese back to you).

-- do you want a stretch along the coast? The Portuguese north of Porto has that option, but the Vdlp doesn't.

Here are ways in which they are pretty similar.
-- Fewer people than the Frances (though the Portugues on the last four or five days from Tui onward gets crowded, whereas I think there are rarely crowds of any sort on the Vdlp/Sanabres)

-- Not too much in the way of elevation gain, though the Portugues has one well known ascent north of Porto and the Vdlp gets hilly after Puebla de Sanabria

--Lots of small towns, agricultural areas, and very nice and helpful people (though I don't want to fall into stereotypes, I do think it's hard to find a country where you will be helped by more kind people than in Portugal).

No bad decision here, IMO! Buen Camino/Bom Caminho, whichever you decide! Laurie

 

[Levi]

Thank-you Peregrina 2000. That is so helpful. I think it may be the Vdlp this year....

 

[LesBrass]

What a great explaination @peregrina2000, it helps a lot. I think I have two problems... first one is time and second is timing. I think I'm called to the VdlP but taking 7 weeks off and out of my life is harder than 5 weeks. And I really want to walk this route in the spring and at the moment not being at home in May is out of the question.

I think in a few years it maybe an option for me so for now I'll just dream about it... or do it in the Autumn of course

 

[Waka]

@peregrina2000
Thank you for the detailed explanation, very helpful.
I'm planning for next year 2017, my initial thoughts were Sept/Oct, are you suggesting the Sept might be on the hot side for either camino?

Regarding the time to complete either camino, bring retired it will take as long as it takes, it took me 42 days to complete the CF with four rest days and the last part Sarria to Santiago taking 7 rather than 4 days.

I have to say that the VDLP does seem appealing and with more off road that the Portuguese. I guess I will take advice, plan for both snd toss a coin nearer the time. I'm sure I"ll eventually do both.

Once again thanks for the detailed comparison.

 

[AJ]

I too like Laurie's analysis. I have walked both and much prefer the VdlP, but don't do it in high summer and be aware that there are some long stages.

 

[Urban Trekker]

I'm starting to put together a plan for next years camino, I've already completed the CF.
I have all the info from the forum and the guide books for both the Portuguese and the VDLP, but just can't make up my mind.
So for those pilgrims that have done both of these routes, which one would you recommend?

I only walked the short Portuguese route, Porto to Santiago. Didn't have time to walk from Lisbon to Porto. Wished I had walked to whole thing. I'm not familiar with the VDLP but I can highly recommend the last half of the Portuguese route. If you liked Spain you will love Portugal. Buen Camino

Happy Trails

 

[peregrina2000]

@peregrina2000
Thank you for the detailed explanation, very helpful.
I'm planning for next year 2017, my initial thoughts were Sept/Oct, are you suggesting the Sept might be on the hot side for either camino?

Regarding the time to complete either camino, bring retired it will take as long as it takes, it took me 42 days to complete the CF with four rest days and the last part Sarria to Santiago taking 7 rather than 4 days.

I have to say that the VDLP does seem appealing and with more off road that the Portuguese. I guess I will take advice, plan for both snd toss a coin nearer the time. I'm sure I"ll eventually do both.

Once again thanks for the detailed comparison.

Hi, Waka, just one thing about the weather. I remember a few years ago when anniesantiago started in Sevilla in late September, she was bowled over by the heat. I'm pretty sure she switched caminos after a few really hot hot days. I'll try to find a few of her posts. More recently, grayland walked in summer and lived to tell the tale. Since Lisbon is further north, and probably since it's close to the ocean, I've never experienced the same heat there as I have in Andalucia and Extremadura. But of course as we all know, the weather is crazy and who knows what you will encounter. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Waka]

Hi, Waka, just one thing about the weather. I remember a few years ago when anniesantiago started in Sevilla in late September, she was bowled over by the heat. I'm pretty sure she switched caminos after a few really hot hot days. I'll try to find a few of her posts. More recently, grayland walked in summer and lived to tell the tale. Since Lisbon is further north, and probably since it's close to the ocean, I've never experienced the same heat there as I have in Andalucia and Extremadura. But of course as we all know, the weather is crazy and who knows what you will encounter. Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks once again Laurie.
As I recall we had some very hot days on the CF in early Sept last year, but I guess with being a lot further South it could be a lot hotter.
What time of year would you recommend? I guess I can be as flexible as I like.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks once again Laurie.
As I recall we had some very hot days on the CF in early Sept last year, but I guess with being a lot further South it could be a lot hotter.
What time of year would you recommend? I guess I can be as flexible as I like.

I think most people walk in spring. I started once in mid April and once in early May. It was glorious. The wildflowers, the green fields, really something. I remember wearing wool gloves in the mornings for the first week or so, the temperatures were great. If it's a particularly rainy season, you will have some fording to do. I remember having to take off my boots two or three times, but never had to go through anything higher than mid calf. If LTfit sees this, she may weigh in on different times of year, I think she has typically been there in the fall.

 

[LTfit]

Here I am weighing in.

My first and second Plata/Sanabrés Caminos (Sevilla-Zamora and Zamora - SdC) were done in July. Yes everyone called me crazy but I found it doable.
My next experience (Sevilla-Salamanca) was during the beginning of February and my last (Salamanca-SdC) was in October.

All were of course very different but I really enjoyed walking in September and October (I actually started in Granada and walked Granada-Mérida then bussed up to Salamanca). I found fresh figs, apples and chestnuts along the way and I was blessed with lovely (rainfree) weather 6 weeks long.

One day I'll do it in May although I hear that there are many more on the road at that time.

I started out as a summer peregrina but now am pleased to walk any time of year.

As a side comment my daughter left Sevilla this morning to walk for 6 days. It is her first Camino and decided 2 weeks ago to do it. Off she went with my backpack and all! Like mother, like daughter !

 

[High Endeavours]

Waka, my turn to add a thought or two. The Plata is something special and it remains my favourite Camino experience. Walked it in early May and well into June 2014, and it was very special indeed! I have walked in the fall several times, but the opportunity to walk the Plata in the spring with the flowers lining the path was very memorable. Photography is something of a passion for me. As I travelled south to north the spring season moved right along with me as did the fields of flowers, the many storks in their wonderful nests, the green fields and ripening grain crops and of course the warm sun. For sure there were a few hot days along the way, but most days were good walking weather (only 2 hours of intense rain that soaked me). I found very little paved road walking along the route with many sections on narrow country trails. For me it was much better than the Frances which I'd walked the prior fall. Many fewer people and those people I met along the way were Europeans who I have remained in close contact with ever since. I met only 3 others where English was their native tongue and there was little english spoken along the way by the locals. This route is not for everyone. You need to be comfortable within yourself as you will often not see another pilgrim most of the day, sometimes not until you finish at an albergue. Personally I loved that as I had opportunities to meet many locals and to work on my quiet mechanical Spanish. Long soulful days of very pleasant walking with time to reflect and to think new thoughts. I met quite a few folks from France and Germany on the route and had to polish up my rusty and very poor French, but this encouraged me to walk from Le Puy this past fall where my poor French improved considerably. The locals see fewer walkers and as such are extremely welcoming in a very genuine way, unlike sections of the Frances where they are often inundated with pilgrims passing by...even perhaps immune. The albergues were for the most part very good and quite new as more people discover this Camino. The places to visit along the way and to take rest days were wonderful and are covered elsewhere in the forum. I sometimes wonder if I'll find this experience again, but then I read about the Levante Camino which I'm planning to experience in 2017 or 2018.

I will be walking the Camino Invierno and the Camino Dos Faros at the beginning of my 2016 walking season and if all goes well I'll finish by meeting friends from Oz who I met on the Frances in Coimbra to walk the Portuguese. Many of the seasoned Europeans I met on the Plata and others who walked this past year have warned me about the Portuguese road walking. I understand it is mostly along busy roads from Lisbon to Porto and pretty much 50/50 road and trail after Porto. My cousin walked this past fall and told me that he very much disliked the portion to Porto because of all the roads and the injuries caused by walking on the hard road surface. What he did like was the close friends he made along that stretch because there were far fewer walking the southern portion, to my mind a nice trade off. I'm very much looking forward to this Camino route, but will make sure I walk some roads before I go!!

Let us know what you decide, but as Laurie says...walk them both!!

 

[SafariGirl]

I've walked both and very much enjoyed both, and I think you should just plan to walk them both -- then making the decision for 2016 becomes easier.

But here are a couple of considerations
-- how many days do you have to walk this year? The Portugues is shorter from Lisbon than the Vdlp from Sevilla.

-- what time of year are you walking? I would avoid the Vdlp in summer or even September, starting in Sevilla, but from Lisbon to Santiago in summer you will not likely get those killer temperatures.

--do you want to visit a lot of monumental cities? If so, then Vdlp probably wins out, with Sevilla, Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Zamora, and Ourense. The Portugues has its share of great stops -- Lisbon and Porto are both very enjoyable places to spend a few days, the old university town of Coimbra is very nice, the Roman ruins in Conimbriga are definitely worth a visit, the Convento to Cristo in Tomar is wonderful.

-- does asphalt really bother you? The amount of asphalt on the Portugues has been decreasing as the local groups are opening up new alternatives but there is more asphalt on the Portugues than the Vdlp, I would say.

-- are you monolingual? Many more people in Portugal speak English than in Spain, but in small towns in both countries you are likely to have to rely on hand gestures and google translate if you don't speak Spanish or Portuguese. (If you speak Spanish, you can make yourself understood in Portugal, but you will probably not understand a word of the response when they speak Portuguese back to you).

-- do you want a stretch along the coast? The Portuguese north of Porto has that option, but the Vdlp doesn't.

Here are ways in which they are pretty similar.
-- Fewer people than the Frances (though the Portugues on the last four or five days from Tui onward gets crowded, whereas I think there are rarely crowds of any sort on the Vdlp/Sanabres)

-- Not too much in the way of elevation gain, though the Portugues has one well known ascent north of Porto and the Vdlp gets hilly after Puebla de Sanabria

--Lots of small towns, agricultural areas, and very nice and helpful people (though I don't want to fall into stereotypes, I do think it's hard to find a country where you will be helped by more kind people than in Portugal).

No bad decision here, IMO! Buen Camino/Bom Caminho, whichever you decide! Laurie

What a comprehensive and helpful answer Peregrina2000! I'd already decided that the VdlP was my next Camino but your breakdown has helped to confirm it's the right decision for me - thank you

 

[SafariGirl]

Waka, my turn to add a thought or two. The Plata is something special and it remains my favourite Camino experience. Walked it in early May and well into June 2014, and it was very special indeed! I have walked in the fall several times, but the opportunity to walk the Plata in the spring with the flowers lining the path was very memorable. Photography is something of a passion for me. As I travelled south to north the spring season moved right along with me as did the fields of flowers, the many storks in their wonderful nests, the green fields and ripening grain crops and of course the warm sun. For sure there were a few hot days along the way, but most days were good walking weather (only 2 hours of intense rain that soaked me). I found very little paved road walking along the route with many sections on narrow country trails. For me it was much better than the Frances which I'd walked the prior fall. Many fewer people and those people I met along the way were Europeans who I have remained in close contact with ever since. I met only 3 others where English was their native tongue and there was little english spoken along the way by the locals. This route is not for everyone. You need to be comfortable within yourself as you will often not see another pilgrim most of the day, sometimes not until you finish at an albergue. Personally I loved that as I had opportunities to meet many locals and to work on my quiet mechanical Spanish. Long soulful days of very pleasant walking with time to reflect and to think new thoughts. I met quite a few folks from France and Germany on the route and had to polish up my rusty and very poor French, but this encouraged me to walk from Le Puy this past fall where my poor French improved considerably. The locals see fewer walkers and as such are extremely welcoming in a very genuine way, unlike sections of the Frances where they are often inundated with pilgrims passing by...even perhaps immune. The albergues were for the most part very good and quite new as more people discover this Camino. The places to visit along the way and to take rest days were wonderful and are covered elsewhere in the forum. I sometimes wonder if I'll find this experience again, but then I read about the Levante Camino which I'm planning to experience in 2017 or 2018.

I will be walking the Camino Invierno and the Camino Dos Faros at the beginning of my 2016 walking season and if all goes well I'll finish by meeting friends from Oz who I met on the Frances in Coimbra to walk the Portuguese. Many of the seasoned Europeans I met on the Plata and others who walked this past year have warned me about the Portuguese road walking. I understand it is mostly along busy roads from Lisbon to Porto and pretty much 50/50 road and trail after Porto. My cousin walked this past fall and told me that he very much disliked the portion to Porto because of all the roads and the injuries caused by walking on the hard road surface. What he did like was the close friends he made along that stretch because there were far fewer walking the southern portion, to my mind a nice trade off. I'm very much looking forward to this Camino route, but will make sure I walk some roads before I go!!

Let us know what you decide, but as Laurie says...walk them both!!

Thank you for this reflection High Endeavours. Really helpful