LIVE from the Camino Portuguese Coastal Senda Litoral

[Airfix]

Started our fourth Camino today after two days sightseeing in Porto. Overnight in Grand Hotel da Povoa, walked 15 km to Apulia. Hot day with little shade, saw approx 50/60 other pilgrims enroute. Dipped our feet in Atlantic, but it is still very cold, only a few brave locals actually swimming in the sea. All restaurants were very busy today and tables hard to find, Sunday lunch is a long standing family tradition. So we settled for a tuna salad at local beach side café, as usual it was excellent.

We aren't going all the way to SDC this time, after completing the Portuguese Central last year we're back to walk the coastal route portion before we leave the Camino at Caminha to spend a week in Peneda-Geres National Park.

 

[James X]

Started our fourth Camino today after two days sightseeing in Porto. Overnight in Grand Hotel da Povoa, walked 15 km to Apulia. Hot day with little shade, saw approx 50/60 other pilgrims enroute. Dipped our feet in Atlantic, but it is still very cold, only a few brave locals actually swimming in the sea. All restaurants were very busy today and tables hard to find, Sunday lunch is a long standing family tradition. So we settled for a tuna salad at local beach side café, as usual it was excellent.

We aren't going all the way to SDC this time, after completing the Portuguese Central last year we're back to walk the coastal route portion before we leave the Camino at Caminha to spend a week in Peneda-Geres National Park.

Would love to hear your comparison between the Central and Coastal once you reach Caminha

 

[Airfix]

Would love to hear your comparison between the Central and Coastal once you reach Caminha

Will do. We think they are very different, hence the return this year. Weather is very good at moment, wind has dropped and sun is out. Path is very popular with locals, far out numbering the pilgrims, but it is the weekend, so could be different in the week.

 

[Airfix]

Stayed in Apulia Praia Hotel last night, very good room with balcony to watch sun go down.
Started out at 8:30, warm but heavy sea mist (picc) blocked the sun out until 9:30.
Short walk today to Esposende, so spent some time walking around Parque Natural do Litoral Norte (see pics) that has a great boardwalk running parallel to Camino route. Good place to stop and share sometime with local nature.
Seen about 30 pilgrims today.
Expensive, mediocre lunch today at beach side café. Better food options seem to be one or two streets back from beach front.

 

[Airfix]

Last night in Hotel Suave Mar, Esposende. Nice hotel but rubbish room. Late start this morning, about 9:30, just as sea mist was burning off with morning Sun.
Stuck to the coast where we could, some nice isolated beaches and quiet Kms.
Arrived in Castelo do Neiva about 3pm. Overnight in Quinta do Monteverde, looks fantastic, best hotel yet. Evening meal in local Tapas Bar O Tasco, very nice.
Seen approx 30 Pilgrims en route during our walk today.

 

[Indy]

Thank you for bringing us along on your Camino!

 

[Dojo]

Last night in Hotel Suave Mar, Esposende. Nice hotel but rubbish room. Late start this morning, about 9:30, just as sea mist was burning off with morning Sun.
Stuck to the coast where we could, some nice isolated beaches and quiet Kms.
Arrived in Castelo do Neiva about 3pm. Overnight in Quinta do Monteverde, looks fantastic, best hotel yet. Evening meal in local Tapas Bar O Tasco, very nice.
Seen approx 30 Pilgrims en route during our walk today.

Disappointed about Hotel Suave Mar - I'm staying there in 2 weeks.

 

[Airfix]

Disappointed about Hotel Suave Mar - I'm staying there in 2 weeks.

Hotel is good but, don't stay in room 120+, there is a row of rooms that have a tiny balcony(1 chair) that overlook a side road, all others either overlook the sea front or pool and look good. Ask to change if possible.

 

[Airfix]

Walked Castelo do Neiva to Viana do Castelo about 15 km hot sunny day.
To be clear, we are walking the Senda Litoral that hugs the coast where possible - the views are great along the beaches and forests, the path is quiet but the signage is poor or non-existant in some areas. If you decide to take this route be prepared to follow paths that are small and often mix with other paths that go to and fro the beaches. Google maps is a must.
Having said above, we walked through the woods north of Amorosa and had the path to ourselves with great views of the sea.
Arrived at Viana do Castelo at 4:30, booked into hotel and managed to catch Venicular (3 Euro return, last ride at 5:50pm) up to Santa Lucia church on the high mountain overlooking the town. Missed last tram down but view was worth it and walk down wasn't bad.
Tapas for dinner, early bed.

 

[Airfix]

Overnight in Casa Melo Alvin, Viana do Castelo lovely hotel next to train station, good breakfast. Walked 19 very hot kms to Vila Praia de Ancora. Many more pilgrims now on the Senda Litoral route, I assume they were on the Camino da Costal route and switched to the Litoral after crossing Ponte Eiffel at Viana do Castelo.
Only one cafe open at Praia de Carreco (café Areia) 8km out of V. do Castelo, another cafe at Praia de Afife 14km was closed, next café was on out skirts of Ancora at 17km. So go prepared.
Nice walk with a mixture of woods & boards walks.
Plenty of wildlife to see if you walk quietly and observe.

 

[Dojo]

Overnight in Casa Melo Alvin, Viana do Castelo lovely hotel next to train station, good breakfast. Walked 19 very hot kms to Vila Praia de Ancora. Many more pilgrims now on the Senda Litoral route, I assume they were on the Camino da Costal route and switched to the Litoral after crossing Ponte Eiffel at Viana do Castelo.
Only one cafe open at Praia de Carreco (café Areia) 8km out of V. do Castelo, another cafe at Praia de Afife 14km was closed, next café was on out skirts of Ancora at 17km. So go prepared
Nice walk with a mixture of woods & boards walks.
Plenty of wildlife to see if you walk quietly and observe.

Thanks for the updates. I was planning on walking the Coastal Route from Viana Do Castelo to Caminha- but now will consider the Littoral. If the weather is good, the beach it is!

 

[RJ in CA]

I live in a very hot dry climate and often hike in 90 degree weather
A friend hiked the Portuguese in 2019 and said she bought a hiking umbrella and it was a game changer

Since then I hike in the summer with one that attaches to my backpack using connectors from gossermer gear connectors

The first summer people laughed at us for hiking with the umbrellas
Now people stop us to find out how we connected them to our backpacks.

After reading how hot it was this week, I packed my umbrella.


If you see an old woman on the Camino with a hiking umbrella
That would be me. I start walking tomorrow.

 

[mspath]

I live in a very hot dry climate and often hike in 90 degree weather
A friend hiked the Portuguese in 2019 and said she bought a hiking umbrella and it was a game changer

Since then I hike in the summer with one that attaches to my backpack using connectors from gossermer gear connectors

The first summer people laughed at us for hiking with the umbrellas
Now people stop us to find out how we connected them to our backpacks.

After reading how hot it was this week, I packed my umbrella.


If you see an old woman on the Camino with a hiking umbrella
That would be me. I start walking tomorrow.

RJ in CA,
Enjoy your necessary/portable shade as you start off tomorrow.
Carpe diem and Bom caminho!

 

[Former member 22438]

I live in a very hot dry climate and often hike in 90 degree weather
A friend hiked the Portuguese in 2019 and said she bought a hiking umbrella and it was a game changer

Since then I hike in the summer with one that attaches to my backpack using connectors from gossermer gear connectors

The first summer people laughed at us for hiking with the umbrellas
Now people stop us to find out how we connected them to our backpacks.

After reading how hot it was this week, I packed my umbrella.


If you see an old woman on the Camino with a hiking umbrella
That would be me. I start walking tomorrow.

Show us some pictures. Everybody here on the forum want to see these
And the shares of the manufacturer will rise significantly .

 

[Airfix]

Thanks for the updates. I was planning on walking the Coastal Route from Viana Do Castelo to Caminha- but now will consider the Littoral. If the weather is good, the beach it is!

Litoral is well marked from Viana Do Castelo, and many pilgrims crossed over to this from coastal at this point.
Before V. Do Castelo Litoral the path isn't as wel marked but can be followed with local maps. The woods north of Amorosa are a challenge but possible with some prep.

 

[Airfix]

I live in a very hot dry climate and often hike in 90 degree weather
A friend hiked the Portuguese in 2019 and said she bought a hiking umbrella and it was a game changer

Since then I hike in the summer with one that attaches to my backpack using connectors from gossermer gear connectors

The first summer people laughed at us for hiking with the umbrellas
Now people stop us to find out how we connected them to our backpacks.

After reading how hot it was this week, I packed my umbrella.


If you see an old woman on the Camino with a hiking umbrella
That would be me. I start walking tomorrow.

We have seen one and I thought it looked great. Wind hasn't been a problem this week, just very hot. Keep covered up, I use a lightweight running jacket and a wide rimmed hat.

 

[Airfix]

Last leg of our current Camino walk today from Ancora to Caminha. Only 11 km. Very hot again, but sea is still cold. The surfers all have full wetsuits on which gave us a clue. There hasn't been any high winds on this trip, which could have been a problem straight off Atlantic.

Lovely Boardwalk and woods walk, one tip is not to follow yellow arrow (to right) onto N13 just north of Moleda beach but walk straight on through the woods to Camarido beach, (see Google map pic with beach circled) and follow the boardwalk around to Caminha. Had lunch and a paddle here despite the cold water.

Last night in Hotel Meira was ok, good room & breakfast but a strange art exhibition in the lobby area (Dali / Masochistic) - go see!

Tonight we are staying in centre of Caminha in the main historic square at Hotel Wine & Design, our room is themed on video games, and hence walls are painted with a Pac-man design, not your usual Portuguese Quinta experience. On the upside, there is a working Amiga 500 games consul in the room that I can just about remember how to work.

Day off tomorrow, before we go to Peneda-Geres National Park Sunday for some really remote walking around Lindoso and Soajo.

 

[nycwalking]

I live in a very hot dry climate and often hike in 90 degree weather
A friend hiked the Portuguese in 2019 and said she bought a hiking umbrella and it was a game changer

Since then I hike in the summer with one that attaches to my backpack using connectors from gossermer gear connectors

The first summer people laughed at us for hiking with the umbrellas
Now people stop us to find out how we connected them to our backpacks.

After reading how hot it was this week, I packed my umbrella.


If you see an old woman on the Camino with a hiking umbrella
That would be me. I start walking tomorrow.

RJ in CA,

I would love to read posts and see pics as you walk.

Buen camino.

 

[RJ in CA]

Last leg of our current Camino walk today from Ancora to Caminha. Only 11 km. Very hot again, but sea is still cold. The surfers all have full wetsuits on which gave us a clue. There hasn't been any high winds on this trip, which could have been a problem straight off Atlantic.

Lovely Boardwalk and woods walk, one tip is not to follow yellow arrow (to right) onto N13 just north of Moleda beach but walk straight on through the woods to Camarido beach, (see Google map pic with beach circled) and follow the boardwalk around to Caminha. Had lunch and a paddle here despite the cold water.

Last night in Hotel Meira was ok, good room & breakfast but a strange art exhibition in the lobby area (Dali / Masochistic) - go see!

Tonight we are staying in centre of Caminha in the main historic square at Hotel Wine & Design, our room is themed on video games, and hence walls are painted with a Pac-man design, not your usual Portuguese Quinta experience. On the upside, there is a working Amiga 500 games consul in the room that I can just about remember how to work.

Day off tomorrow, before we go to Peneda-Geres National Park Sunday for some really remote walking around Lindoso and Soajo.

Thank you for sharing your beautiful pictures with us

I am right behind you so I’m looking forward to each stop even more

 

[Airfix]

One last update before we go "Off Caminho" to Peneda-Geres National Park in North Portugal for another walking week.
Hotel Wine & Design in Caminha was a mixed bag. Great view overlooking main square from room and good breakfast. But the meal last night was worst yet, by far. They have a Pilgrims three course meal with wine for 20 euros a head. Don't bother, wish we hadn't, it's a blatant money making offering.
Approx 20/30 Pilgrims walking around last night in Caminha, so fairly busy.
Taxi to Ponte de Lima today, to stay overnight before we move on to Lindoso tomorrow. This place is on Portuguese Central Caminho, and much busier than coastal route. Our hotel, Imperio Norte is full, I assume other places are also busy.
Some tips....if your looking for value shopping there is a huge supermarket 400 metres off Caminho route just as you enter the town (Continente Modelo) and just over the bridge on the right (before the church) is a beautiful garden and visitors centre Parque do Arnado. First pic is Hotel Wine& Design Caminha, others are in Ponte de Lima today.