LIVE from the Camino Porto/SdC/Muxia-Fisterra Apr 27-May 20

[DenWhite]

We arrived in Porto by train from Lisbon yesterday afternoon. Long haul from Australia via Singapore, Milan and Madrid departed April 23. Our first encounter with other pilgrams was when 3 seperate lone first timers saw our Camino patches on our packs on the station platform at Lisbon. Like bees to honey, we were soon in a huddle sharing our expectations. Here in Porto we have made more contact, all first timers. Is this a trend developing? A highlight of today was getting our 1st stamp in our Irish Society Passport that has all our stamps from 2018, with room to fit all ahead to Muxia/Fisterra. With a day to go we are well and truly in Camino mode.

All set ready to go. Adelaide

Alps from Milan MXP

Approach into Lisbon


Departure point tomorrow April 27 for Aldeia Nova.

Last from SJPdP-SdC and first from Porto.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 1 Porto to Aldeia Nova 18K's.
The overnight rain greeted us the next morning having us wearing our jackets for the 5min walk to the Cathedral, our official starting point.
The persistent 'light showers' soon had us adorned in our ponchos as we made our way along the river not letting up until Matoshinos where the ponchos were discarded.
The weather moderated the rest of the way and even provided patches of sunshine.
The route along the coast, for us ending after tomorrow's stage, provides a peaceful backdrop of the sound of the sea and gulls. But it will be nice to be back into more traditional Camino territory cutting across to the central route from Vila do Conde, a shorter 16 relaxing km's.

 

[Wazza]

Congratulations on making it to Porto and being first timers! We walked the Camino de Frances a few years ago and are contemplating the Porto to Santiago camino. I note you are doing the central route - any reason for this rather than the coastal route?

 

[DenWhite]

Hi Wazza. Decided on 1st couple of days out of Porto to follow a more scenic section rather than industrial suburbs. Being Aussies we love the coast! Central also supposed to be very colorful in spring. This is our 3rd Camino, 1 part Frances 2018 from Leon and SJPdP - SdC 2022.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 2 Aldeia Nova to Vila do Conde 18Ks ( to accom)
Greeted by clear sky, no wind and sunshine. There is one of those three that let's the team down regardless of other prevailing conditions: The wind. By late morning it's working up to a an afternoon bluster and will not be sorry to be heading inland tomorrow. Not withstanding, the coastal scenery was pretty special topped off with with white caps and rolling surf. One other most notable observation has been the high level of pilgram traffic. It has been suggested on the Forum that a Pilgram wave is generating from SJPdP on the Frances. If numbers are anything to go by, a similar situation maybe occurring here. It will be interesting to see if it is similar on the central route after tomorrow.
I'll let you know.

.Our campsite for the night.No, it's not a church.

Someone's got a do it!

 

[DenWhite]

Day 3 Vila do Conde to Sao Pedro de Rates 17 ks.
Best day so far. Started out beautiful clear skies with warming sunshine and it only got better. The number of pilgrams crossing over to the central route was more than I presumed. We stopped for a coffee on the outskirts of Conde and in the time of our short break counted a dozen pilgrams passing by.
It is a comfortable steady climb most of this route from the coast to Arcos as you are embraced with the change to rural Portugal the further you go.
It became quite warm through the day, even applying sunscreen, offset by a gentle cool breeze as we climbed.
Speaking with other pilgrams we discovered that over 90% are on their first Camino with starting points, destinations and distances of all varieties so the high numbers are not indicating a 'wave' into SdC.

Out of Vila do Conde and snaps along the way to Arcos
Approach into Arcos

Chapel at Rates
Our Casa (Mattos) highly recommend.
Tomorrow possible showers for our 16K trek to Barcelinhos.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Some great photos, thanks for sharing!

 

[DenWhite]

Day 4 Rates to Barcelhinos 16ks.
The constant rain through the night continued for 2 thirds of the days trek and still patchy for the rest of the day. Only 2 rest stops finding shelter at a church at Pedra Furada just to get out of the rain for a bit and a 30min cafe break a short distance further on for coffee and a hot ham and cheese toastie. Talking about coffee, the standard Camino coffee up until early on this Camino was cafe con leche of course. Decided to try a variant of americano with a 'dash' of leche. Now, with the Portuguese who speak english 'a dash' is an amusing addition to their vocabulary.
As I'm writing this now at 0430 I am accompanied by the sound of heavy rain. Hoping it's done with early.
One of our longer sections today of 21-22ks to Vitorino with an earlier start.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Love your posts! My husband and I were in southern Portugal one winter, walking miles along the Fisherman's Trail (daily out-and-backs rather than thru-hiking). The scenery you're walking through is similarly gorgeous !

 

[DenWhite]

Day 5 Barcelinhos to Vitorino 22k.
Another wet but colder day being higher up in the mountains. The wet weather will be with us until Tuesday next week after which we enter a dry, warm (mid 20's) period hopefully seeing us through.
Not withstanding the inclement weather our Camino is more picturesque by the day. Once having left Barcelinhos the services along this stage are not as easily accessible as is the norm. The route approaches most towns and villages but then by passes requiring deviations to access cafes or other services, which we did not do. But, as always, the Camino provides with a little pop up stall in the drive way of a house 500m from our accommodation at the entrance to Vitorino. At least a dozen pilgrams made use of this in the short time we were there.
We have encountered a wide range of fellow travellers from all corners of the globe with the numbers still seemingly high. Our accommodations here at Vitorino are full and late walk-ins turned away.
Shorter stage to Ponte de Lima today.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 6 Vitorina to Ponte de Lima 14 ks.
The forecast was accurate up to our time of departure with heavy rain through the night and early hours. Thankfully it was off the mark for the day with occasional showers and longer periods of finer weather and sunny breaks.
We had a pilgrams dinner with 20 of us sitting down to share a meal and stories of Caminos past and present, a great night.
The short distance stages provide a physical respite allowing for more shorter intermediate breaks and longer coffee and refuelling stops.
Our destination of Ponte de Lima has been a real highlight. The walk along the river is up there with Burgos, a similar highlight on the Camino Frances and the city is a beautiful site to behold.
Our Casa.
Looking forward to our journey out of the city this morning.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Nice that you got a respite from the rain, hope the weather improves for you. Enjoying following along

 

[DenWhite]

Nice that you got a respite from the rain, hope the weather improves for you. Enjoying following along

Thanks Peter but very short lived. Out of 2 + 1 in progress Caminos today was the toughest. Climbed the top of a mountain in atrocious conditions. See post a bit later.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 7 Ponte de Lima to Rubias 20ks.
Firstly an explanation. My stage distances are calculated from point of accommodation to point of accommodation. In most instances the stages are longer on average than guide books.
Next, this stage has been a mixture of the sublime to the atrocious, with the atrocious being the last 3 hours from the ascent to Alto da Portela Grande de Labruja, 360mt's in 4.2ks then the decent into Rubias in pouring rain with cold wind. The ground is that wet from rain over the past week or more that sections of the path are either flooded or awash.
So to put all of this in context from a photo story, it will be in 3 sections as:
Departing Ponte de Lima.
The expectation of what this city has to offer for a photo nut was lived up to.
Just a small sample as restricted to 10 photos for the post.
Landscapes: Magnificent.
And last but not least, as the Irish would say 'when things turn to shite'.


Courtesy of Ngaire my wife.



The good news is the terrain is more friendly tomorrow. The bad news is the rain will be heavier than today. The consolation is we have a rest night at Valenca, our next stop and last in Portugal.
Footnote: We shared today's experience with part of the pilgram community we have been a part of over the past 7 days. All managed to over come the adversity in good spirits but of course it's only natural that someone's tolerance level was tested. I own up to that. PS, it's my Camino!

 

[DenWhite]

Day 8 Rubias to Valenca 17ks.
First, a big thumbs up to Sonia at Casa Sao Sabastio for her efforts in assisting in getting our gear as dry as possible as well as
for all who arrived soaked coming down from the top of the mountain. The washer and dryer worked overtime.
Another wet start but with much more favorable terrain on our trek to Valenca. Pilgrams all in good spirits after the challenges of the previous day. The beautiful landscapes on each and every stage have more than compensated for the challenging conditions which brings into focus the answer to 'why am I doing this'?. Regardless of the conditions, the terrain and all other subjective distractions the primary objective for me is what the Camino offers most in opening the door ito a personal insight, if you allow it.

How many Cobblestones are there in Portugal Overlooking Spain across the river at Valenca as seen from our bathroom window.
Rest day today Sunday, hello Spain Monday.

 

[Simperegrina]

You truly have been getting it with the weather through Portugal.

The good news is that after this morning, the forecast looks so much better for the next few days - you’ve certainly earned it

 

[DenWhite]

Day 9 Sunday May 5 rest day in Valenca.
Sleep in was great. Up late morning, gathered our laundry and headed off out of the fort, where our accommodation was located, for a 15 min walk back into the ' new city' to do our washing, have lunch and replenish our supermarket supplies. Quiet afternoon resting before an early dinner and preparing for this mornings departure entering Spain for O'Porrino.
Great to stay dry all day despite the foggy morning. Lots of Pilgrams today. Valenca is where the coastal route finishes joining the central route for the last120 ks to Santiago de Compostela.
Fortaleza de Valenca. Our accommodation was housed within the walls of this historic site.

Scenes in and around Fortaleza.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 10 Monday May 6 Valenca to O'Porrino 19ks.
No rain, heavy fog. After the rest day with leaving Portugal behind and entering Spain seemed like the start of a Camino within a Camino.
The walk out through the tunnels of Fortaleza de Valenca with the heavy fog was a unique experience. Once on the approach to the bridge over the Rio Minho it was apparent the numbers of pilgrams had significantly increased more than likely due to the coastal and central routes merging. This was added by the numbers who spent the night in Tui and with the addition of a number of tour groups. Reminiscent of Sarria.
It was a bit surreal, with our previous Camino from SJPdP in 2022, to see the markers at 100+ks after such a short time.
With the fog lifted and sunshine breaking through the clouds it was uplifting to once again be walking in light clothing.
Next stop Cesantes.
Farewell

 

[DenWhite]

Day 11 O Porrino to Cercantes 19ks
After a short lived misty start the day turned to blue skies and warm sunshine. The stage was mostly pavement with some challenging gradients. With only 80ks to Santiago there is a high volume of pilgrams with some large tour groups. The anticipation of our arrival at Santiago is beginning to surface with the start of a new Camino also contributing to it. The mix of an ending along with a beginning is an entirely new Camino experience.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 12 May 8 O Porrino to Pontevedra 17ks.
After a rest day 2 stages back you think you've seen the last of those you have made friends with but some of those have had a rest day also and 'bingo', out of the blue', they pop up. So along with new friends made after the rest day, your circle is ever expanding. Now we will all be arriving in Santiago de Compostella on the same day, Sunday May 12.
Getting into some beautiful Spring weather with temps hovering 25-27c and when you think the scenery couldn't be better you are presented with:

Images of home with yet more eucalyptus forests.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 13 May 9 Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis 22ks.
How time and distance sneaks up. The realisation of that special moment when entering the Cathedral arena is but a stones throw away! Bought home more by the hussle and bussel of throngs of excited pilgrams most of who's expectation of the arrival is an unknown.
We have our last full stage today, only to Padron, in keeping with our intention of shorter days than previous camino's. Then nearly another rest day Saturday with only 10ks to Picarana allowing for an early start Sunday with a manageable 16ks for a mid day arrival to Santiago.
Back to the task at hand. Our stage to Caldas des Reis was one of generating more reflection with Santiago in our sights interspersed with short term inconvenience of difficult asseos access and table and chair shortages with the numbers overwhelming the infrastructure. A feeling of great anticipation of a like only the Camino offers.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 14 May10 Caldas de Reis to Padron 19ks.
Beautiful morning saw us off to a good start with 6.5 ks seeming to take no time before our first break. We were just ahead of the wave until then so coffee and other necessities no problem.
The stage was easy, arriving in Padron just shy of 1400. Caught up with a couple of West Australian walking mates for dinner wich was nice.
Short 10ks today, Saturday May 11, so we can explore a bit before heading off around 1100, long lunch after 5ks then a leisurely afternoon stroll into Picaran a.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 15 May 11 Padron to Picarana 10ks.
No rush getting away mid morning with most on the trail ahead of us. Weather as per most of the past week, perfect. Caught up once again with some old 'Camino defined' friends who turned up most unexpectedly. They are never far removed.
Had a long break arriving at our destination at 1330 and was able to check in. The realisation is closing in that a 3rd Camino is coming to a conclusion tomorrow, made somewhat surreal with the start of a 4th Camino a couple of days after.
Part of the congestion on the trail. (they need their breaks too)


Room with a view

 

[DenWhite]

Day 16 May12 to SdC 9.6ks.
Easy very relaxing walk to our destination. One coffee break leaving 6ks to go.
Young Latin American guy on his first Camino. On crutches with titanium hip, had done 30ks a day. Told him how special he will find arriving. He said he will cry!
Santiago de Compostela 4 ks out. Cathedral steeples on the horizon where fluffy white cloud is.
First sight walking into the square is something special regardless of your world view.
With some Camino friends and 8mth old Jonah. What a trek.
Time to rest up for Tuesday.

 

[DenWhite]

Day 1 Tues May14. Muxia/Finisterre
SdC to Negreira 21ks

We were off to a reasonable start but then, soon after our first break at Quintans about 12ks into the stage, disaster struck. Ngaire stepped into a missing paver hole on a foot path, tripped and the weight of her pack forced a heavy landing. A swollen, bruised and very sore left ankle, grazed and bruised right knee and jarring from the neck down equalled Camino kaput.On the upside, it happened on a main road with a bus shelter close by. I rang a taxi that easily found us and took us to our lodgings in Negreira. I'm not sure how we would have managed on a mountain trail? 112 or Alert Cops maybe. Back to SdC in the morning to start recoup, but Muxia/ Finisterre out of the question. So glad we finished the Porto.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@DenWhite , I feel for Ngaire. Having just broken my ankle whilst on the Jacobsweg (camino) over Easter I know how rough it is. If you haven't already do please seriously consider getting medical attention just in case it's actually fractured and not just badly sprained.

Either way it's gonna be painful, all the best to her for a speedy recovery.

Incidentally, yes, either 112 or Alertcops would have worked for you. Pretty much wherever you were.

 

[DenWhite]

@DenWhite , I feel for Ngaire. Having just broken my ankle whilst on the Jacobsweg (camino) over Easter I know how rough it is. If you haven't already do please seriously consider getting medical attention just in case it's actually fractured and not just badly sprained.

Either way it's gonna be painful, all the best to her for a speedy recovery.

Incidentally, yes, either 112 or Alertcops would have worked for you. Pretty much wherever you were.

Will follow that up. Cheers
Peter

 

[sharonmonty]

Will follow that up. Cheers
Peter

Thanks for sharing all of this. Your photos brought back lovely memories of my Camino from Valenca 2 years ago. I hope Ngaire is recovered very soon

 

[DenWhite]

Thanks for sharing all of this. Your photos brought back lovely memories of my Camino from Valenca 2 years ago. I hope Ngaire is recovered very soon

Thanks Sharon happy to know that you found those memories through the photos, helps make it all worthwhile.