Porto - Santiago - Finisterre

[jkontheway]

Hello! After walking the Camino Frances in 2018, the Kumano Kodo in 2019, I am back for a third... the Caminho Portugues.

I have been living in Lisbon this year, and with all that is going on in the world, I feel incredibly fortunate to still get to walk, without leaving the country. I just arrived in Porto, to this beautiful view.



I'll be starting my walk on Saturday, and have a full 16 days. I'm planning a mix of coastal and inland, and will be posting daily updates on here as I go!

 

[Lexicos]

It's a wonderful walk jk, and Porto is a beautiful city well worth a few days if you have the time.

I look forward to your posts and photos.

 

[nycwalking]

Buen camino.

 

[jungleboy]

Bom caminho!

 

[Anne&Pat]

Bom Caminho. Porto is looking spectacular!

 

[nick1896]

Bom caminho! I'll be following this closely as I plan to do the same starting on 21st September.

 

[Rozenn]

Hello! After walking the Camino Frances in 2018, the Kumano Kodo in 2019, I am back for a third... the Caminho Portugues.

I have been living in Lisbon this year, and with all that is going on in the world, I feel incredibly fortunate to still get to walk, without leaving the country. I just arrived in Porto, to this beautiful view.

View attachment 82791

I'll be starting my walk on Saturday, and have a full 16 days. I'm planning a mix of coastal and inland, and will be posting daily updates on here as I go!

Buen Camino ! I spent last Christmas in Porto and had planned to walk to Santiago end of April., hope to
Be able to make it before winter !
I will follow you with great attention!!

 

[CherylCamino]

This is the exact route my husband and I were planning to do in May 2020...now hopefully in May 2021. Looking forward to your postings! Buen Camino!

 

[Rowena]

Bom caminho! I’ll be following your progress as well.
I walked that same route in October/November 2019, including the Variante Espiritual, which is really lovely.
“Walk with your heart and embrace your Camino”

 

[Pruden]

Enjoy your Camino!!
Ultreia et Susseia !

 

[Former member 95219]

Lovely. Did Porto to Santiago June / July this year. Was fab!!

 

[lt56ny]

I love Porto I love Portugal and I love the people of Portugal best of all!!!

 

[elleley]

Bom caminho! Walked a mix of coastal, inland and the Variante Espiritual in 2018. Love love love Porto! Great photo!! You are fortunate to be there to begin your Camino. Feels even farther away being in the US where we are not able to enter Spain or Portugal at this time. You are walking for all of us! Walk in love!
Ultreia!!

 

[donnasanjuan]

Ultreia!

 

[Jomas]

Bom camino ✌

 

[jkontheway]

Picked up my passport - wow, they sure look a lot more modern than the Frances ones!

There are lots of arrows in Porto, and lots of routes to choose from. I'm still undecided which way I'll go tomorrow - I'm tempted to start along the coast as I hear the first day out of Porto on the central route isn't that nice. However, I was told that the monastery albergue in Vairão is really worth staying in... so I'm torn. Guess I'll go wherever the Camino takes me!



I'm staying in Albergue de Peregrinos Porto tonight, and it's lovely! A huge garden with lots of fruit trees. I might have enjoyed a fig, or two... It is the season after all. There seem to be about a dozen or so people staying here, more than I expected.



Can't wait for tomorrow's adventure!

 

[MarcelWals]

View attachment 82852

Picked up my passport - wow, they sure look a lot more modern than the Frances ones!

There are lots of arrows in Porto, and lots of routes to choose from. I'm still undecided which way I'll go tomorrow - I'm tempted to start along the coast as I hear the first day out of Porto on the central route isn't that nice. However, I was told that the monastery albergue in Vairão is really worth staying in... so I'm torn. Guess I'll go wherever the Camino takes me!

View attachment 82853

I'm staying in Albergue de Peregrinos Porto tonight, and it's lovely! A huge garden with lots of fruit trees. I might have enjoyed a fig, or two... It is the season after all. There seem to be about a dozen or so people staying here, more than I expected.

View attachment 82854

Can't wait for tomorrow's adventure!

Send my regards to Miquel frome. Tell him I will be back in Feb 2021! Buen Camino

 

[AussieWayne]

Hello! After walking the Camino Frances in 2018, the Kumano Kodo in 2019, I am back for a third... the Caminho Portugues.

I have been living in Lisbon this year, and with all that is going on in the world, I feel incredibly fortunate to still get to walk, without leaving the country. I just arrived in Porto, to this beautiful view.

View attachment 82791

I'll be starting my walk on Saturday, and have a full 16 days. I'm planning a mix of coastal and inland, and will be posting daily updates on here as I go!

I’m sooo jealous. My plan was to walk from Lisbon to SdC then Finisterre about now but this damn virus made leaving Australia impossible. Enjoy your Camino.
i look forward to following your progress.
Buen Camino

 

[Rozenn]

View attachment 82852

Picked up my passport - wow, they sure look a lot more modern than the Frances ones!

There are lots of arrows in Porto, and lots of routes to choose from. I'm still undecided which way I'll go tomorrow - I'm tempted to start along the coast as I hear the first day out of Porto on the central route isn't that nice. However, I was told that the monastery albergue in Vairão is really worth staying in... so I'm torn. Guess I'll go wherever the Camino takes me!

View attachment 82853

I'm staying in Albergue de Peregrinos Porto tonight, and it's lovely! A huge garden with lots of fruit trees. I might have enjoyed a fig, or two... It is the season after all. There seem to be about a dozen or so people staying here, more than I expected.

View attachment 82854

Can't wait for tomorrow's adventure!

.
Do you book your accommodation from one day to another or are you going to take what comes next ? Tent maybe?
I wish you a beautiful weather !

 

[jkontheway]

Day 1: Porto - Povoa de Varzim! (41km)

I'm sitting on the beach writing this, feet soaked and sanded.



Today was a long day! I set off around 730am from Porto, and walked along the river.

When I got to Matosinhos the pedestrian bridge was closed, but luckily there was a free shuttle transporting people. The shuttle took longer than the walk would've... So I guess that's not cheating then right?

I followed the coast the entire time, and there was one beautiful nature stretch where I'm quite sure I wasn't actually on the Camino anymore (I lost the arrows), but it was so stunning.



I got to Povoa de Varzim around 3pm, and I'm staying at a beautiful guesthouse - decided to treat myself to a private room after a poor sleep last night in the albergue. I spotted about 10 pilgrims today (quite a lot!), and one going backwards (probably towards Fatima!).

I am exhausted but feeling those endorphins rushing in!



I have to say the route today was incredibly beautiful, despite it being very busy. It was funny to walk along the beach most of the day, seeing everyone enjoying a lazy Saturday!

I'm still unsure about tomorrow - thinking of going inland towards Barcelos and making it to Casa Fernanda (heard such good things!), but I also love walking along the coast. Recommendations welcome!

 

[MaineSally]

Casa Fernanda is a wonderful experience. The communal meal was the especially special. Hallelujah was sung prior to dinner with everyone holding hands up high. Very moving. Fernanda and Jacinto are dedicated and attentive hosts.

 

[jsalt]

Unfortunately the photos are taking forever to download, so unable to follow your thread now .
Bom caminho!

 

[jkontheway]

.
Do you book your accommodation from one day to another or are you going to take what comes next ? Tent maybe?
I wish you a beautiful weather !

No tent for me - just playing it day by day and seeing where I get to! Today was beautiful weather, even too hot at 30C and sunshine!

 

[Rozenn]

No tent for me - just playing it day by day and seeing where I get to! Today was beautiful weather, even too hot at 30C and sunshine!

Enjoy your well deserved rest ! The sunset is surely going to be beautiful!
Keep us posted , thanks a lot to
Letting us follow you!

 

[Trudie]

Did Portugal Coastal Camino to Santiago in May 2019 with Portugal Green Walks. Fabulous walk, accommodations, and people. Spent 3 months in Porto. Love the people and the coastal walk.

 

[Wendy Werneth]

When I got to Matosinhos the pedestrian bridge was closed, but luckily there was a free shuttle transporting people.

Do you know why the bridge was closed, or when it is expected to reopen? I'm not OK with taking a shuttle so will have to rethink our plan for that day if it remains closed.

 

[jkontheway]

Do you know why the bridge was closed, or when it is expected to reopen? I'm not OK with taking a shuttle so will have to rethink our plan for that day if it remains closed.

Hi Wendy! I just looked it up for you - the bridge is called Ponte móvel de Leça and according to Google reviews it closes (or well, technically it opens up) quite often. I think it's either for damage repair or to let ships through. It's quite well marked to find the shuttle, and it only takes about 10 minutes and seems to come quite often. I don't know if there is an alternative path... unless you end up taking the central route from Porto.

 

[Rowena]

I left the coast at Vila do Conde and crossed to the central route. Barcelos is a lovely town and I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, but you should call ahead to reserve there.

 

[jkontheway]

I left the coast at Vila do Conde and crossed to the central route. Barcelos is a lovely town and I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, but you should call ahead to reserve there.

Thank you! That's helpful - I will call tomorrow morning! Was it a tough walk? It'll take me about 2.5 hrs to get to Rates from here, and then I can cross into the central route and continue on to her place. It'll be another long day!

 

[Wendy Werneth]

Thank you for looking that up! That makes sense, as the name would indicate that it's a moving bridge. Probably to let ships through. I'll try to find out if there's a schedule posted somewhere of its opening/closing times.

 

[jkontheway]

Thank you for looking that up! That makes sense, as the name would indicate that it's a moving bridge. Probably to let ships through. I'll try to find out if there's a schedule posted somewhere of its opening/closing times.

Good luck! Annoyingly Google Maps doesn't show there is anything wrong.

 

[Rowena]

The walk from Vila do Conde to Rates where you meet the central route and beyond as far as Ponte de Lima is flat and easy.

 

[jkontheway]

Day 2: Povoa de Varzim - Barcelos (29 km)

As much as I wanted to go on to Casa de Fernanda, another 17km would not have been smart for my body (plus in 33C heat!), so I decided to stop in Barcelos today.

I walked east from Povoa de Varzim, hoping to find the central route, and I did!


Seeing that yellow arrow made me so happy. The Camino always provides. It was a calm walk, with a couple of stretches where the infrastructure wasn't that great, with no sidewalk to walk on.



Luckily it was a quiet Sunday morning with not too many cars, otherwise it would have been quite uncomfortable.

I passed about three pilgrims today, and saw one coming towards me. I also made a tiny kitten friend that followed me around (I seriously considered taking him back home to me in Lisbon, he was the cutest!).



Landscape today was mostly farm land and relatively flat (yay!). I've been wearing my trail runners and so far no complaints!

Entering into Barcelos is very beautiful!



It's a quiet Sunday but I'm looking forward to exploring and walking around a little. Oh, and eating! Does anyone else love eating on the Camino? There's something so satisfying about eating for sustenance after a long days walk!

Tomorrow I'm headed towards Ponte de Lima!

 

[RutaV]

Did Camino Portugues in September 2016, loved it and envy you for doing it now I and my friend did the Coastal. Will follow your comments with interest! Bom Caminho!

 

[Lexicos]

Loved Barcelos. Such an interesting city. There’s a beautiful garden in the center of town. The weekly market is among the best. Enjoy!

 

[Rozenn]

Day 2: Povoa de Varzim - Barcelos (29 km)

As much as I wanted to go on to Casa de Fernanda, another 17km would not have been smart for my body (plus in 33C heat!), so I decided to stop in Barcelos today.

I walked east from Povoa de Varzim, hoping to find the central route, and I did!

View attachment 82935
Seeing that yellow arrow made me so happy. The Camino always provides. It was a calm walk, with a couple of stretches where the infrastructure wasn't that great, with no sidewalk to walk on.

View attachment 82934

Luckily it was a quiet Sunday morning with not too many cars, otherwise it would have been quite uncomfortable.

I passed about three pilgrims today, and saw one coming towards me. I also made a tiny kitten friend that followed me around (I seriously considered taking him back home to me in Lisbon, he was the cutest!).

View attachment 82936

Landscape today was mostly farm land and relatively flat (yay!). I've been wearing my trail runners and so far no complaints!

Entering into Barcelos is very beautiful!

View attachment 82938

It's a quiet Sunday but I'm looking forward to exploring and walking around a little. Oh, and eating! Does anyone else love eating on the Camino? There's something so satisfying about eating for sustenance after a long days walk!

Tomorrow I'm headed towards Ponte de Lima!

 

[Rozenn]

Cute little cat indeed!
You are right about food! After a day of walking , you can really feel
Your energy comes back mouthful after mouthful . A serious job.. and in silence! All the strength to be focused on that moment
How any simple bread cheese and ham or pilgrim menu can taste so wonderful!!
Saber a gloria as the Spanish say it!!
Are you going to stay in the central route now or back to the coastal some times!
Is the weather getting a bit stormy( I noticed the special clouds!)
Buen camino!

 

[David Tallan]

Day 2: Povoa de Varzim - Barcelos (29 km)

As much as I wanted to go on to Casa de Fernanda, another 17km would not have been smart for my body (plus in 33C heat!), so I decided to stop in Barcelos today.

I walked east from Povoa de Varzim, hoping to find the central route, and I did!

View attachment 82935
Seeing that yellow arrow made me so happy. The Camino always provides. It was a calm walk, with a couple of stretches where the infrastructure wasn't that great, with no sidewalk to walk on.

View attachment 82934

Luckily it was a quiet Sunday morning with not too many cars, otherwise it would have been quite uncomfortable.

I passed about three pilgrims today, and saw one coming towards me. I also made a tiny kitten friend that followed me around (I seriously considered taking him back home to me in Lisbon, he was the cutest!).

View attachment 82936

Landscape today was mostly farm land and relatively flat (yay!). I've been wearing my trail runners and so far no complaints!

Entering into Barcelos is very beautiful!

View attachment 82938

It's a quiet Sunday but I'm looking forward to exploring and walking around a little. Oh, and eating! Does anyone else love eating on the Camino? There's something so satisfying about eating for sustenance after a long days walk!

Tomorrow I'm headed towards Ponte de Lima!

You can always go to Casa da Fernanda from Barcelos. That's what I did, splitting the walk from Barcelos to Ponte de Lima. If you walked 40 km on your first day, you are due a few short days.

 

[Rozenn]

Day 2: Povoa de Varzim - Barcelos (29 km)

As much as I wanted to go on to Casa de Fernanda, another 17km would not have been smart for my body (plus in 33C heat!), so I decided to stop in Barcelos today.

I walked east from Povoa de Varzim, hoping to find the central route, and I did!

View attachment 82935
Seeing that yellow arrow made me so happy. The Camino always provides. It was a calm walk, with a couple of stretches where the infrastructure wasn't that great, with no sidewalk to walk on.

View attachment 82934

Luckily it was a quiet Sunday morning with not too many cars, otherwise it would have been quite uncomfortable.

I passed about three pilgrims today, and saw one coming towards me. I also made a tiny kitten friend that followed me around (I seriously considered taking him back home to me in Lisbon, he was the cutest!).

View attachment 82936

Landscape today was mostly farm land and relatively flat (yay!). I've been wearing my trail runners and so far no complaints!

Entering into Barcelos is very beautiful!

View attachment 82938

It's a quiet Sunday but I'm looking forward to exploring and walking around a little. Oh, and eating! Does anyone else love eating on the Camino? There's something so satisfying about eating for sustenance after a long days walk!

Tomorrow I'm headed towards Ponte de Lima!

where did you sleep in Barcelos, please?
D

 

[jkontheway]

You can always go to Casa da Fernanda from Barcelos. That's what I did, splitting the walk from Barcelos to Ponte de Lima. If you walked 40 km on your first day, you are due a few short days.

True!! I actually walked past her and continued on to Ponte de Lima, but maybe next time!

 

[jkontheway]

Day 3: Barcelos - Ponte de Lima. 35-40km?

My watch says 40km but I believe it was a little less! Beautiful walking route today with lots of vineyards. I ate lots of grapes, figs, and blackberries along the way. Love it when nature provides!

Some small up and downs but nothing crazy...and I have been warned about the mountain for tomorrow! Hoping to reach Tui!

I walked into Ponte de Lima to see the weekly market (lucky me!!). It's nice to see so much life!

Food has been tricky for me. I started eating vegan two years ago (after the Camino Frances luckily!), and I'm really struggling to find options in restaurants. Luckily there are amazing bakeries everywhere so I've been surviving on delicious bread! Speaking of, I saw the bread fairy this morning as I walked out of Barcelos! Has anyone else noticed bread fairies on the Camino?
View attachment PXL_20200914_072745961.LS.mp4

 

[jkontheway]

And some more pics from ponte de lima! What a beautiful place!!!

 

[thistleamy]

I left the coast at Vila do Conde and crossed to the central route. Barcelos is a lovely town and I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, but you should call ahead to reserve there.

I did the same and loved the coastal route but also was happy to go inland. I had a great time in Barcelos.

 

[Wendy Werneth]

Food has been tricky for me. I started eating vegan two years ago (after the Camino Frances luckily!), and I'm really struggling to find options in restaurants.
View attachment 82993

@jungleboy and I are also vegan, so I can share our experiences/tips on finding food. You're right, it's very rare that you will find vegan options on menus in traditional Portuguese restaurants. But I've found that if you ask nicely, the owners are happy to whip up a plate of vegetables and rice, and maybe some beans or black-eyed peas. Nothing fancy, but it's filling and nutritious.

Otherwise, sopa de legumes and other soups are often vegan, and you can always get several side dishes like fries, rice, salad, etc. The albergues that offer meals have also been happy to make us something vegan.

Our normal routine on Camino is to pack a picnic for lunch and then eat dinner in a restaurant or a communal albergue dinner. All the albergues seem to have closed their kitchens this year due to the pandemic, so cooking for yourself may not be an option.

If you pass by an Aldi, or even better a Lidl, take advantage and stock up on things like tofu and hummus, which you won't find in smaller shops like Mini-Preço. Continente also has hummus and even some Veganz products, but we've had no luck finding tofu there, at least not in the Continente Bom Dia stores.

Once you cross the border, you'll have more choices when ordering straight off a menu. Paella de verduras, parrillada de verduras, gazpacho, patatas bravas (sin mayonesa) and pisto are all pretty common in Spain. For more suggestions, see the blog post linked in my signature, which I wrote after walking the Francés in 2017. You can also check my Camino Portugués highlight reel on Instagram: www.instagram.com/nomadic_vegan. We're several days behind you, as you know, but it may give you some meal ideas!

 

[Rozenn]

And some more pics from ponte de lima! What a beautiful place!!!
View attachment 82994View attachment 82995View attachment 82996View attachment 82997

Gréât ! Where are you staying ? It is precious to have your info about the accommodation if you don’t mind !

 

[simonpc]

Do you know the process when crossing into Galicia does the accommodation there provide you with a locator form to fill in?

 

[Rowena]

The bread fairies are a nice touch!
You have set an amazing pace for yourself, @jkontheway. It took me seven days to get to Tui, but of course, you have the advantage of youth! I met a woman in France who was walking from Geneva to SJPP, covering 50 kilometers a day. She said she was always hungry!
Buen Camino into Spain. Pontevedra and Padron are interesting stops. Are you planning to take the Variante Espiritual? I thought it was a beautiful addition to the Camino Portugués, especially the Ruta de Pedra y Agua part, and it takes you back to the coast. I was able to take the boat up the river to Padrón. Maybe that is closed now due to the pandemic.
Thank you for the photos!

 

[jkontheway]

@jungleboy and I are also vegan, so I can share our experiences/tips on finding food. You're right, it's very rare that you will find vegan options on menus in traditional Portuguese restaurants. But I've found that if you ask nicely, the owners are happy to whip up a plate of vegetables and rice, and maybe some beans or black-eyed peas. Nothing fancy, but it's filling and nutritious.

Otherwise, sopa de legumes and other soups are often vegan, and you can always get several side dishes like fries, rice, salad, etc. The albergues that offer meals have also been happy to make us something vegan.

Our normal routine on Camino is to pack a picnic for lunch and then eat dinner in a restaurant or a communal albergue dinner. All the albergues seem to have closed their kitchens this year due to the pandemic, so cooking for yourself may not be an option.

If you pass by an Aldi, or even better a Lidl, take advantage and stock up on things like tofu and hummus, which you won't find in smaller shops like Mini-Preço. Continente also has hummus and even some Veganz products, but we've had no luck finding tofu there, at least not in the Continente Bom Dia stores.

Once you cross the border, you'll have more choices when ordering straight off a menu. Paella de verduras, parrillada de verduras, gazpacho, patatas bravas (sin mayonesa) and pisto are all pretty common in Spain. For more suggestions, see the blog post linked in my signature, which I wrote after walking the Francés in 2017. You can also check my Camino Portugués highlight reel on Instagram: www.instagram.com/nomadic_vegan. We're several days behind you, as you know, but it may give you some meal ideas!

Wendy! Thank you thank you. I've been doing the same as you in terms of supermarkets, but never thought to actually ask the restaurants! I am so craving beans, chickpeas, and all the legumes...I will be sure to ask next time (tomorrow). As for Spain, hell yes to patatas bravas! Love those. I can't wait for some gazpacho/salmorejo soon, will be looking out for it now I'm in Spain!

 

[jkontheway]

Do you know the process when crossing into Galicia does the accommodation there provide you with a locator form to fill in?

I just crossed into Tui and just walked right in. Not sure about Galicia.

 

[jkontheway]

I stayed in a private place last night! Got a booking discount so paid €40 for a room in Arc'Otel. Simple but beautiful, and got a great sleep. I think the albergue is open there though

 

[jkontheway]

The bread fairies are a nice touch!
You have set an amazing pace for yourself, @jkontheway. It took me seven days to get to Tui, but of course, you have the advantage of youth! I met a woman in France who was walking from Geneva to SJPP, covering 50 kilometers a day. She said she was always hungry!
Buen Camino into Spain. Pontevedra and Padron are interesting stops. Are you planning to take the Variante Espiritual? I thought it was a beautiful addition to the Camino Portugués, especially the Ruta de Pedra y Agua part, and it takes you back to the coast. I was able to take the boat up the river to Padrón. Maybe that is closed now due to the pandemic.
Thank you for the photos!

Wow! 50km is a bit much. I don't know yet - I am indeed worried the boat might not be running... I suppose I still have until Pontevedra to decide do you recommend it?

 

[jkontheway]

Day 4: Ponte de Lima - Tui. 42 km.

This will be a short post because I am tiiiiired! The uphill wasn't as bad as I had anticipated luckily, but I did get a solid 9 hour sleep that fueled me. I met a lovely German couple that have plans to open their own albergue along a new Camino route in Portugal next year (does anyone know about this route?). The landscape today was beautiful, with the mountains, rolling hills, and forest giving a true Camino vibe.

Walking into Spain was anticlimactic, although I will say the bridge between Valença and Tui is a little scary! It was windy and I did not enjoy the 5 minute walk across it - although I do have a fear of heights... I had to swallow a couple of obrigadas already and remember to pull out my gracias! It's an hour later here which means I can go to bed sooner, YAY!

I have a friend joining me from tomorrow onwards who lives in Spain so I suspect my stages will be a little shorter. I'm still feeling strong, thanks to good shoes and a daily stretch! My favourite item has always been my lacrosse massage ball....rolling your feet over it is the most painful and satisfying moment of the day! My belly is full (with fruits and veggies and all the bread!), and I'm excited for tomorrow. I think we'll either go to Redondela or the town halfway, depending on how my friend feels. So far the weather is holding up nicely!

 

[jkontheway]

I just crossed into Tui and just walked right in. Not sure about Galicia.

Ignore my dead brain - not sure what I was trying to say there. But basically there were no forms or anything. Masks seem to be compulsory though, as opposed to Portugal.

 

[Wendy Werneth]

I carry a lacrosse ball too! Though I haven't tried rolling it under my feet. I have plantar fascitis, and I do exercises with the ball to loosen up the fascie in my legs, which seem to be the root cause of the pain in my feet.

It works well enough to keep my pain levels manageable, but I could never do the long days you're doing. I can't believe you're in Spain already!

 

[jkontheway]

I carry a lacrosse ball too! Though I haven't tried rolling it under my feet. I have plantar fascitis, and I do exercises with the ball to loosen up the fascie in my legs, which seem to be the root cause of the pain in my feet.

It works well enough to keep my pain levels manageable, but I could never do the long days you're doing. I can't believe you're in Spain already!

Oh no. Not a good thing to be twinning on. I have plantar fascitis too! Under the feet has been really helpful, and I also recommend stretching them out with a towel! I also found it helpful to roll the ball against the fibula bone of the calves.

I also like to do a solid 20 mins of legs up against the wall when I'm in bed, which really helps with the blood flow and relaxation.

I do long days but I am used to walking a lot, so I think my legs somehow manage. But I also am so looking forward to a massage once I reach Santiago dlC! Happy walking tomorrow to you and hubby!

 

[Wendy Werneth]

Thank you, I will try that! It does seem like we have a lot in common LOL. I'm sure you'll be long gone by the time we reach Santiago, but we should try to meet up when we're both back in Lisbon. Maybe at one of the many great vegan restaurants in the city. Buen Camino!

 

[jkontheway]

Thank you, I will try that! It does seem like we have a lot in common LOL. I'm sure you'll be long gone by the time we reach Santiago, but we should try to meet up when we're both back in Lisbon. Maybe at one of the many great vegan restaurants in the city. Buen Camino!

Yes please! Would love that. Let me know when you're back.

 

[jkontheway]

Day 5: Tui - Redondela. 35km.

Beautiful day apart from a few high way stretches. There was one split where there was actually an option to avoid the road and go through the forest instead which was beautiful. Really enjoyed today's walk and it was perfect weather too. Rain is on the forecast for the rest of the week so let's see how that goes..

Tomorrow will reach Pontevedra- wondering whether to take the spiritual route or the regular Central! Any recommendations?

 

[Rowena]

Day 5: Tui - Redondela. 35km.

Beautiful day apart from a few high way stretches. There was one split where there was actually an option to avoid the road and go through the forest instead which was beautiful. Really enjoyed today's walk and it was perfect weather too. Rain is on the forecast for the rest of the week so let's see how that goes..

Tomorrow will reach Pontevedra- wondering whether to take the spiritual route or the regular Central! Any recommendations?
View attachment 83108View attachment 83109

It depends whether you have time. The Variante Espiritual is longer, adding 41 km. If the boat isn’t running, the walk upriver to Padron is reportedly a bit of a slog.
I haven’t walked the central route through Caldas de Reis, so can’t compare, but I really enjoyed the variant out to the coast, over a mountain and back to the coast again. I would recommend it.

 

[jkontheway]

It depends whether you have time. The Variante Espiritual is longer, adding 41 km. If the boat isn’t running, the walk upriver to Padron is reportedly a bit of a slog.
I haven’t walked the central route through Caldas de Reis, so can’t compare, but I really enjoyed the variant out to the coast, over a mountain and back to the coast again. I would recommend it.

Thank you! That's helpful. Definitely do have the time. Maybe I'll inquire about the boat and decide based on that. I also suppose there are less albergues... Was the mountain a tough climb?

 

[Rowena]

Thank you! That's helpful. Definitely do have the time. Maybe I'll inquire about the boat and decide based on that. I also suppose there are less albergues... Was the mountain a tough climb?

Somewhat tough for me, probably not too bad for you. The reward going down the other side, following mountain streams on their way to the sea, is well worth it.

 

[Rozenn]

Day 5: Tui - Redondela. 35km.

Beautiful day apart from a few high way stretches. There was one split where there was actually an option to avoid the road and go through the forest instead which was beautiful. Really enjoyed today's walk and it was perfect weather too. Rain is on the forecast for the rest of the week so let's see how that goes..

Tomorrow will reach Pontevedra- wondering whether to take the spiritual route or the regular Central! Any recommendations?
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Thank you! That's helpful. Definitely do have the time. Maybe I'll inquire about the boat and decide based on that. I also suppose there are less albergues... Was the mountain a tough climb?

Thanks for the pics!How is the accommodation so far? I am really interested in knowing the places you stay in at night , especially in Covid times knowing who is opened or not
Thanks
You are really walking fast ! Well done

 

[jkontheway]

Somewhat tough for me, probably not too bad for you. The reward going down the other side, following mountain streams on their way to the sea, is well worth it.

I inquired in the Pontevedra tourism office today and supposedly the boat isn't going during the rain...the weather forecast is not great for the next few days! So I will not risk it, and take the central route instead. Next time I hope!

 

[jkontheway]

Thanks for the pics!How is the accommodation so far? I am really interested in knowing the places you stay in at night , especially in Covid times knowing who is opened or not
Thanks
You are really walking fast ! Well done

So far I've been staying in private albergues, no municipal ones. Some are open, some are closed. I've been booking through Booking.com every time, and often I'm the only one (or one of few) there. People are really happy to see some tourism! I'll be happy to send you a list of all the places I stayed at the end, but would rather not post where I am sleeping each night on an internet forum.

 

[jkontheway]

Day 6: Redondela - Pontevedra. 23km.

The shortest walk so far! Beautiful route. Lots of trees. Lots of friendly abuelos wishing me a buen Camino! Lots of dogs, and lots of bread fairies. I'm starting to see quite some more people now... We are getting closer to Santiago!

 

[Rozenn]

So far I've been staying in private albergues, no municipal ones. Some are open, some are closed. I've been booking through Booking.com every time, and often I'm the only one (or one of few) there. People are really happy to see some tourism! I'll be happy to send you a list of all the places I stayed at the end, but would rather not post where I am sleeping each night on an internet forum.

sure i understand! yes if you have time to send me a list of the places you stayed in private mail!i am 67, needs to plan a bit , i dont like to book in advance but appreciate to have a list where to rely to!!
lovely pic of the dog! i use to take a photo of a dog each day first time in the morning!

 

[Rozenn]

besides ! your shorter walk for me would be the longest one !! i walk an average of 18/20!! Also being quite a dreamer , i dont push myself!Good for you!

 

[jkontheway]

besides ! your shorter walk for me would be the longest one !! i walk an average of 18/20!! Also being quite a dreamer , i dont push myself!Good for you!

Yes of course. Will be more happy to share at the end! And I hope to still be walking when I'm your age!!

 

[jkontheway]

Day 7: Pontevedra - Padron (45km)

Wow! Beautiful day! Only caught a little bit of rain the last thirty minutes but besides that blue skies. Passed through many villages today and actually saw quite some pilgrims too.

People in Galicia are so friendly, wishing you a buenos dias and buen camino. Crazy to think I will be in Santiago tomorrow! This Camino went
very fast compared to the French way... I still have another week of holidays. My plan was to continue on to Finisterre but the weather forecast is looking very grim... so now I'm not quite sure what to do! For now I'm just excited to return to Santiago and see it in a very different and more quiet light! I'm curious about the queue at the pilgrim's office... Stay tuned

Please enjoy these beautiful pics from today!

 

[Rozenn]

Yes of course. Will be more happy to share at the end! And I hope to still be walking when I'm your age!!

Thanks! And on this forum there so many people my age and older who are so fit and full of stamina ! It gives hope isn’t it ?

 

[Rozenn]

Beautiful skies before the rain! it amazes me each time how related Brittany and Galicia are related concerning the weather ! it is pouring rain today too ..Fall is here !
Enjoy Santiago !
8 days!! Congratulations you deserve a good rest now!Pamper yourself !

 

[jkontheway]

Wow! The sun peeked through an hour before entering Santiago and stayed with me the entire time. Such a beautiful way to end the Camino, with sunshine on my face. The walk was alright, not as beautiful as previous days, but arriving to Santiago and seeing the first sights of the cathedral is so special. Very different from when I did the Frances two years ago - so quiet!

The cathedral is under construction so covered in scaffolding, but still beautiful and intricately adorned. I went to get my Compostela and waited a grand total of 15 minutes...compared to previous years this is nothing! I remember waiting 3-4 hours for it in 2018.

There is a pilgrim mass every evening at 19:30 which I will definitely catch. I had planned to rest for a few days and then continue on to Finisterre/Muxia, but the weather forecast is so horrible, so I might have to save this for another year. Either way, it's been a beautiful 8 days, and I thank you all for sharing it with me! And now, it's time for a massage, and a hunt for great vegan food!

 

[jkontheway]

And for those interested- I registered as a dual pilgrim at the tourism office because I walked the Kumano Kodo last yr! You get a beautiful certificate and a pin, and a really friendly smile from the ladies there

 

[Noel & Annie J]

Bom caminho! I’ll be following your progress as well.
I walked that same route in October/November 2019, including the Variante Espiritual, which is really lovely.
“Walk with your heart and embrace your Camino”

We're planning to do this route next month. Any suggestions or tips?

 

[Rowena]

We're planning to do this route next month. Any suggestions or tips?

We're planning to do this route next month. Any suggestions or tips?

Are you planning to walk the central or coastal route in Portugal? If you’re planning for the central route, I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, if they are open, possibly the best albergue in Portugal. You need to reserve ahead, it’s very popular.

 

[Former member 22438]

Are you planning to walk the central or coastal route in Portugal? If you’re planning for the central route, I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, if they are open, possibly the best albergue in Portugal. You need to reserve ahead, it’s very popular.

Casa da Fernanda is open all year round

 

[Rick H]

Are you planning to walk the central or coastal route in Portugal? If you’re planning for the central route, I highly recommend Casa Fernanda, if they are open, possibly the best albergue in Portugal. You need to reserve ahead, it’s very popular.

Which town is Casa Fernanda located?

 

[Rowena]

Which town is Casa Fernanda located?

About half way between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima, at Lugar do Corgo. Not actually in a town.

 

[Former member 22438]

About half way between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima, at Lugar do Corgo. Not actually in a town.

Lugar do Corgo isthe name of the house
Casa da Fernanda is situated in the council of Vitorino dos Piães and the neighbourhood is named Outeiro
Vitorino is a small village 18 kms from Barcelos en 14 kms to Ponte de Lima
the house is situated at the waymarked path of the caminho

 

[Former member 22438]

Casa da Fernanda