Planning Levante for 2015

[KinkyOne]

Hola!

I'm planning to walk Valencia to Fisterra (via Sanabres & Muxia) in 2015. I've gathered some info on albergues and distances from various sources (vieiragrino, mundicamino, this forum, some blog posts etc.), but I was unable to upload .pdf file here. You can find it in Camino Resources section (https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-levante-distances-and-acommodation.270/) thanks to @ivar who managed to upload it. If this compilation is helpful to anyone I'll be happy, also I would gladly receive all your comments and additional information.

Ultreia!

 

[AlanSykes]

Hi there,

Sounds like a good camino. One or two suggestions based on my recent one from Alicante, which overlaps frequently:

- the nuns at Almansa prefer you (possibly only if male) to go in their back door on Calle Cervantes (almost opposite the (excellent) restaurant Hogar del Productor)
- the albergue at San Clemente has, I think, 3 beds in 2 rooms and is free
- when I asked at the policia local in Mota del Cuervo they denied that there was an albergue there
- the albergue at the convent of Las Trinitarias at El Toboso has, I'd guess, about 7 beds (I stayed in a room with 2 beds, loo and shower, and there were at least another three rooms). €20.
- there's an excellent casa rural at Villa de Don Fadrique: El Rincón del Infante which gives you a snack supper, clothes wash and breakfast from very pilgrim-friendly host Juan for €20 (probably slightly more in high season, I'd guess)
- in Tembleque I stayed in the very comfortable Casa Rural el Balcón de La Mancha on the plaza de la Orden, 34 615 47 30 38 (Juan in Don Fadrique knows them and will ring ahead to book if you like) just off the amazing Plaza Mayor, and above the decent restaurant Mirador de La Mancha. €20.
- Almonacid de Toledo's acogida is in the changing rooms of the municipal swimming pool, with at least 4 loos and 6 showers with hot water, but VERY basic otherwise. Free.
- I didn't stay there, but my Estonian friend said that the parroco's place in Rielves was good (and free)
- Gotarrendura's albergue has bunk beds sleeping 4 in one room. There is a good kitchen (and washing machine) but if you haven't got food with you there is no shop, so check the door of the village bar, ring the number and they will open at 8pm and give you supper (no choice: soup, main course and flan), perfectly fine but vegetarians may have problems.
- the cistercians in Arévalo no long accommodate pilgrims. There is a corner of the polideportivo with bunk beds for 4, shower and loo, with the keys in the very helpful policia local (I think they are in the Plaza Real, certainly one of the main squares near the centre of town)
- the albergue of Siete Iglesias has a loo, shower and wash basin, which I think had drinking water (there's a fountain in the square almost opposite, so it's not a problem - I prefer not to drink municipal treated water if I can avoid it).

Have a good one, there are many beautiful places and landscapes to enjoy.

 

[KinkyOne]

- the albergue at the convent of Las Trinitarias at El Toboso has, I'd guess, about 7 beds (I stayed in a room with 2 beds, loo and shower, and there were at least another three rooms). €20.

Thank you very much Alan!
I've enclosed it in my document.
But 20€ in the Convent??? I guess that's not the albergue as such...

K1

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you very much Alan!
I've enclosed it in my document.
But 20€ in the Convent??? I guess that's not the albergue as such...

K1

Hi, K1, I was disappointed not to be able to find out how to get someone to let me in to the convent in El Toboso when we got there. And we wound up in an old hostal on the highway, rooms were 15 euros I believe, so cheaper than the convent.

But I had walked all the way that day with Kevin's (from the forum) description from when he had slept there, talking about lace curtains fluttering in the breeze. So you'll have to decide between lace curtains in the convent or a much less nice place on the highway. The hostal, El Quijote, has two parts -- one is the old hostal that I think they had essentially closed when they opened a newer one, but they seem to use this as an "albergue" type place, that's where we stayed. You could splurge for a nicer newer place next door, too. So you have lots of options.

The casa rural option at Vila de Don Fadrique is excellent in terms of price/quality ratio. The evening "snack" is more than you need for dinner. And the owner Juan cares a lot, it's just that he's a bit fussy. But my walking companions stayed in the polideportivo for free, there were mats on the floor and hot showers. Even though it was June or even July, it was just too cold for me, so I took the easy way out and spent the 25 euros for a heated room and a nice evening snack and clean clothes.

I think you're going to have a grand time on the Levante! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, K1, I was disappointed not to be able to find out how to get someone to let me in to the convent in El Toboso when we got there. And we wound up in an old hostal on the highway, rooms were 15 euros I believe, so cheaper than the convent.

But I had walked all the way that day with Kevin's (from the forum) description from when he had slept there, talking about lace curtains fluttering in the breeze. So you'll have to decide between lace curtains in the convent or a much less nice place on the highway. The hostal, El Quijote, has two parts -- one is the old hostal that I think they had essentially closed when they opened a newer one, but they seem to use this as an "albergue" type place, that's where we stayed. You could splurge for a nicer newer place next door, too. So you have lots of options.

The casa rural option at Vila de Don Fadrique is excellent in terms of price/quality ratio. The evening "snack" is more than you need for dinner. And the owner Juan cares a lot, it's just that he's a bit fussy. But my walking companions stayed in the polideportivo for free, there were mats on the floor and hot showers. Even though it was June or even July, it was just too cold for me, so I took the easy way out and spent the 25 euros for a heated room and a nice evening snack and clean clothes.

I think you're going to have a grand time on the Levante! Buen camino, Laurie

I will sure try to have the best time on Levante, Laurie Thanks to you also!
Since I was always on a budget (and this rock'n'roll is still going on...) I don't mind to sleep on the gym mats. And I'm not easily cold (even now with sub 0C I sleep with window opened) so I guess that Camino shopuld be a gem for me!

Another question - is it really 40kms from La Font de la Figuera to Almansa? Or is it from Almansa to Higueruela??? You went to Alpera albergue I remember from your blog.

Thanks.

K1

 

[peregrina2000]

I will sure try to have the best time on Levante, Laurie Thanks to you also!
Since I was always on a budget (and this rock'n'roll is still going on...) I don't mind to sleep on the gym mats. And I'm not easily cold (even now with sub 0C I sleep with window opened) so I guess that Camino shopuld be a gem for me!

Another question - is it really 40kms from La Font de la Figuera to Almansa? Or is it from Almansa to Higueruela??? You went to Alpera albergue I remember from your blog.

Thanks.

K1

La Font to Almansa is around 26. Almansa to Higueruela is reported to be 42. Alpera is out of the way, but it was a nice walk and a great way to break it up (if you do stop in Alpera, I would recommend going back the way you came to Carrascal instead of going all the way Alpera to Higueruela on the asphalt, that would be silly, IMO, but then I hate asphalt). I assume you've seen the stages I posted in an attachment, but just in case, https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-levante.19142/

I'm not even sure where I'm walking in 2015 and here you are doing all your research already -- you're way ahead of me, K1!

 

[andy.d]

When I walked what was listed as an albergue is in Mota del Cuerva was actually a very busy Shelter for homeless people. As the Guardia Civil who told me this said, pilgrims should not take beds from homeless people.

It's a few years since I walked the Levante. It was my first Camino and it was an epic! Enjoy yourself,

Andy

 

[KinkyOne]

La Font to Almansa is around 26. Almansa to Higueruela is reported to be 42. Alpera is out of the way, but it was a nice walk and a great way to break it up (if you do stop in Alpera, I would recommend going back the way you came to Carrascal instead of going all the way Alpera to Higueruela on the asphalt, that would be silly, IMO, but then I hate asphalt). I assume you've seen the stages I posted in an attachment, but just in case, https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-levante.19142/

I'm not even sure where I'm walking in 2015 and here you are doing all your research already -- you're way ahead of me, K1!

That's funny. I have never seen so much difference about distance on a certain stage like here. Mundicamino has 29kms on map and 34,7 in text, Vieiragrino 38,4kms, GoogleMaps 37,8kms, you said it is reported 42kms. But sure might be unpleasantly long I guess, so it's good to have Alpera albergue on La Lana to cut it in half.
I'll decide right there and then, but seems like quite doable to go beyond Higueruela the next day. It's like 9kms to Hoya Gonzalo with CR "Hoya Gonzalo" for 10€, which gives me less kms the day after to Chinchilla (18kms) and more time to enjoy there. I know that Hostal "Penon" isn't really a gem but the village of Chinchilla surely is. At least for what I saw on the photos.

 

[KinkyOne]

When I walked what was listed as an albergue is in Mota del Cuerva was actually a very busy Shelter for homeless people. As the Guardia Civil who told me this said, pilgrims should not take beds from homeless people.

It's a few years since I walked the Levante. It was my first Camino and it was an epic! Enjoy yourself,

Andy

Thanks, Andy.
I'm not planning to sleep in Mota del Cuervo (push on to El Toboso), but you never know Anyway, the municipal albergue in Mota wasn't really confirmed yet. If I remember this will try to ask while passing through and report.

 

[Donovan]

Hi K1,
Alpera is one of those villages that just struck a chord with me and is high on my list of good stopover places. The town is nothing special but, to me, the townspeople are. In several shops I was met with warmth and friendliness that was exceptional. Over tapas and wine in the evening a man approached, asked if I was a peregrino and then gave me a wealth of information about the route to Higuerela and onwards from there, and drew a map to get me through Albacete. Just one of those days when magic happens.

 

[domigee]

Hola!
I'm also planning to walk the Levante this year, starting in Alicante (camino de la Lana) to Almansa and then in Zamora joining the Camino Canabres.
I'd like to thank everyone for the very useful info., I still have much to read but I'm getting there...

 

[KinkyOne]

Hola!
I'm also planning to walk the Levante this year, starting in Alicante (camino de la Lana) to Almansa and then in Zamora joining the Camino Canabres.
I'd like to thank everyone for the very useful info., I still have much to read but I'm getting there...

Looks like you've decided between VdlP and Levante When are you planning to set off? I'll give myself two whole months for Valencia Muxia/Fisterra with some additional days in larger/interesting towns. Fly from Venice to Valencia on 6th June and in the beginning of August back to Venice from SdC. I'll start walking on 8th June from the mediterranean coast and hopefully end my Camino on Atlantic coast.
It looks like I'll have a female companion (of Slovenian-Austrian origin) from Frankfurt, Germany. She has three weeks so the plan is to walk together to Toledo with easy pace. We have met last year on Madrid airport, me starting my de Madrid/CF/de Invierno combo and she just ended del Norte and returning back home. Spoke for couple of hourse and here we are, on the Levante
I found all the needed info on this forum with lots of description, acommodation details, GPS (although I'm not walking with one) tracks etc. here:
http://www.vieiragrino.com/camino/camino.asp
http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=42
http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/routes/details/levante.html
I also compiled a guide book that will be printed in A5 format as a booklet with acommodation info which you've already saw in resources section.

Ultreia!

 

[domigee]

Ultreia KinkyOne!
Nice to have found a walking companion! I too met my walking partner by chance on the Camino, we've since walked over 6000 km together.
This time I'm setting off on my own (I think), planning to arrive in Santiago on 15th August so working out backwards for a departure date, looks like beg. of July at the moment. I've been using Mundicamino and the Euroski websites as well as all the resources on this forum but didn't know the others you mention. Thank you so much for all the useful info.
I went off the VdlP btw because I read about the numerous dogs and loose cows everywhere? I'm such a wuss. I walked through Serbia and Bulgaria last year on the way to Jerusalem and I was petrified by the dogs, I need some time to recover I think, lol.
I may carry on to Muxia after Santiago but haven't decided yet.
Happy planning and buen camino,
Dominique

 

[peregrina2000]

Hola!
I'm also planning to walk the Levante this year, starting in Alicante (camino de la Lana) to Almansa and then in Zamora joining the Camino Canabres.
I'd like to thank everyone for the very useful info., I still have much to read but I'm getting there...

Hi, domigee,
I almost chose the Camino de la Lana this year, but decided on the Catalan/Aragones. I think that 2016 will be the year of the Lana for me. So I will be very interested to hear how it goes for you up to Almansa.

I also just wanted to say that I've walked the Vdlp/Sanabres a couple of times and it doesn't stand out in my mind as having any more loose dogs or cows than any other caminos. I remember a couple of times on the Levante where we had to walk through livestock, but I don't say that to scare you, only to say that it was no big deal on either camino. I think the Lana/Levante/Sanabres is an outstanding choice! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

Looks like you've decided between VdlP and Levante When are you planning to set off? I'll give myself two whole months for Valencia Muxia/Fisterra with some additional days in larger/interesting towns. Fly from Venice to Valencia on 6th June and in the beginning of August back to Venice from SdC. I'll start walking on 8th June from the mediterranean coast and hopefully end my Camino on Atlantic coast.
It looks like I'll have a female companion (of Slovenian-Austrian origin) from Frankfurt, Germany. She has three weeks so the plan is to walk together to Toledo with easy pace. We have met last year on Madrid airport, me starting my de Madrid/CF/de Invierno combo and she just ended del Norte and returning back home. Spoke for couple of hourse and here we are, on the Levante
I found all the needed info on this forum with lots of description, acommodation details, GPS (although I'm not walking with one) tracks etc. here:
http://www.vieiragrino.com/camino/camino.asp
http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=42
http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/routes/details/levante.html
I also compiled a guide book that will be printed in A5 format as a booklet with acommodation info which you've already saw in resources section.

Ultreia!

K1, that is so great that you will be walking with someone. I know you've walked alone on caminos before, but this Levante is a lot of long stages through unpopulated areas, and I too was lucky to have the companionship -- it made a huge difference for me.

And I think three weeks to Toledo is a very manageable pace, you're all set.

BTW, I have a little package of maps of the Levante, which came with my guidebook. I know at least one stage is out of date (Chinchilla to Albacete), but I think the rest are up to date. I left them at home during my Levante and now they are just gathering dust on a shelf. If you would like me to send them to you, just PM me with an address and I'll stick them in the mail. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[domigee]

Hi, domigee,
I almost chose the Camino de la Lana this year, but decided on the Catalan/Aragones. I think that 2016 will be the year of the Lana for me. So I will be very interested to hear how it goes for you up to Almansa.

I also just wanted to say that I've walked the Vdlp/Sanabres a couple of times and it doesn't stand out in my mind as having any more loose dogs or cows than any other caminos. I remember a couple of times on the Levante where we had to walk through livestock, but I don't say that to scare you, only to say that it was no big deal on either camino. I think the Lana/Levante/Sanabres is an outstanding choice! Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks Laurie, I'm looking forward to it and planning it is already part of the pleasure.
Ah well, looks like I'll still have to cope with the livestock then... (YIKES! ) Better to be forewarned.
Will read up on your camino, you never know, for next year?

Buen camino,
Dominique

 

[KinkyOne]

K1, that is so great that you will be walking with someone. I know you've walked alone on caminos before, but this Levante is a lot of long stages through unpopulated areas, and I too was lucky to have the companionship -- it made a huge difference for me.

And I think three weeks to Toledo is a very manageable pace, you're all set.

BTW, I have a little package of maps of the Levante, which came with my guidebook. I know at least one stage is out of date (Chinchilla to Albacete), but I think the rest are up to date. I left them at home during my Levante and now they are just gathering dust on a shelf. If you would like me to send them to you, just PM me with an address and I'll stick them in the mail. Buen camino, Laurie

I don't mind to walk alone, Laurie, actually I quite like it. My work is all about cooperation with all sorts of people, professionals and others, non-stop. And I'm fed up with that every day. Really a lonesome wolf myself I could say, heh. Guess I picked wrong profession?
But yes, this woman seems like the right person that we could managed it together. And I'm really looking forward to it. She is also experienced walker (del Norte twice etc.) and three weeks to Toledo seems like an easy stroll for now. Well, we'll see about that

Regarding maps, thank you very much, I can send you my postal address although I think I don't need them really. I mean, I have pretty good sense of direction (GPS included when born) and with KML files on my phone for each case...? What dou you think?

K1

PS (I'm through with the first third of Camino de Invierno guide with my "corrections". Will try to do it soon as I can.)

 

[peregrina2000]

I don't mind to walk alone, Laurie, actually I quite like it. My work is all about cooperation with all sorts of people, professionals and others, non-stop. And I'm fed up with that every day. Really a lonesome wolf myself I could say, heh. Guess I picked wrong profession?
But yes, this woman seems like the right person that we could managed it together. And I'm really looking forward to it. She is also experienced walker (del Norte twice etc.) and three weeks to Toledo seems like an easy stroll for now. Well, we'll see about that

Regarding maps, thank you very much, I can send you my postal address although I think I don't need them really. I mean, I have pretty good sense of direction (GPS included when born) and with KML files on my phone for each case...? What dou you think?

K1

PS (I'm through with the first third of Camino de Invierno guide with my "corrections". Will try to do it soon as I can.)

Well, I am happy to send them to you, but maybe the more pilgrim spirited thing to do would be to send them to someone less like you and more like me, born with no instinct on which way to go. Anyone out there walking the Levante who doesn't have the Amigos guide and would like a set of maps -- at least if Kinky says he doesn't want them.

Looking forward to your Invierno corrections, I'm happy to pull what I just posted and re-post with corrections. Are you working off the version that is now in the resource section? Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Well, I am happy to send them to you, but maybe the more pilgrim spirited thing to do would be to send them to someone less like you and more like me, born with no instinct on which way to go. Anyone out there walking the Levante who doesn't have the Amigos guide and would like a set of maps -- at least if Kinky says he doesn't want them.

Looking forward to your Invierno corrections, I'm happy to pull what I just posted and re-post with corrections. Are you working off the version that is now in the resource section? Buen camino, Laurie

Yes, Laurie, please do that, send them to someone else because I kind of like to be mistaken. Well, I don't actually, but I can learn that way Anyway, thank you very much for offering your help!!!
I'm indeed going through posted version of the Invierno guide. You'll get it soon, promise

 

[peregrina2000]

Yes, Laurie, please do that, send them to someone else because I kind of like to be mistaken. Well, I don't actually, but I can learn that way Anyway, thank you very much for offering your help!!!
I'm indeed going through posted version of the Invierno guide. You'll get it soon, promise

Ok, I'll see if there are other takers for the Levante maps.

No rush on the Invierno guide, K1, as long as you send them in before I go to the Invierno in June, it's all about me, you know. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

So excited - I booked my flight to Valencia on 6th June few minutes ago
Starting on 8th... all the way to Fisterra (via Sanabres), huh...

 

[domigee]

Very exciting!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, I know that feeling, once you've locked in your international travel! Great news, kinky. Are you going to spend some time in Valencia?

 

[KinkyOne]

Oh, I know that feeling, once you've locked in your international travel! Great news, kinky. Are you going to spend some time in Valencia?

My flight to Valencia is at 11:25 (Sat, June 6th) and I'll most probably wait for my companion, flying from Frankfurt, on the airport until 17:05. I really want to enjoy Valencia together with her, because she only has the time to walk Valencia - Toledo. That's why it seems right to wait for her those 5 hours at the airport.
We're planning to start walking from the coast on Monday, June 8th, so we will have additional day to enjoy Valencia and it's charms I wasn't really planning to be in Valencia during weekend, but Venice - Valencia with RyanAir was only 28€ (+ 25€ checked luggage) on this Saturday. So I didn't think much. I just waited for the last available seat at this price and that was yesterday

 

[Castilian]

Enjoy Valencia and your camino, KinkyOne.

Tip: try an orxata amb fartons (aka horchata con fartones) in Valencia.

P.S.: Valencia is paella home... but be careful with tourist traps.

 

[KinkyOne]

Enjoy Valencia and your camino, KinkyOne.

Tip: try an orxata amb fartons (aka horchata con fartones) in Valencia.

P.S.: Valencia is paella home... but be careful with tourist traps.

Thanks for the tip Castilian! I think my friend will be very happy with that, whereas I'm not at all into sweet(s). I prefere salty, spicy & sour so I guess paella valenciana (I love sea food) in some back street will do just fine for me

 

[Castilian]

I prefere salty, spicy & sour so I guess paella valenciana (I love sea food) in some back street will do just fine for me

I'm sorry to tell you that traditional paella valenciana doesn't include seafood (or so they say)...

...but I'm happy to tell you that you'll find other paellas with seafood.

For more info about the ingredients of a traditional paella valenciana, take a look at this wikipedia page:

http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paella#Paella_valenciana

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, I wish I could remember where I was taken for paella in May 2014! It was phenomenal. I do a pretty good job keeping track of places I've stayed, but I need to pay more attention to the eating places! Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

I'm sorry to tell you that traditional paella valenciana doesn't include seafood (or so they say)...

...but I'm happy to tell you that you'll find other paellas with seafood.

For more info about the ingredients of a traditional paella valenciana, take a look at this wikipedia page:

http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paella#Paella_valenciana

Yes, you're right, of course. I remembered that one of the ingredients was eels and therefore my mind told me it was "mariscos"
Don's worry, I'll try all of them

 

[Castilian]

Don's worry, I'll try all of them

Great choice!

 

[KinkyOne]

Oh, I wish I could remember where I was taken for paella in May 2014! It was phenomenal. I do a pretty good job keeping track of places I've stayed, but I need to pay more attention to the eating places! Laurie

Hi, Laurie,

Isn't there a pic of a large plate of paella in your blog? Or I might have seen that in someone other's blog?

 

[KinkyOne]

Great choice!

Easy choice

 

[KinkyOne]

@Castilian
Do you have any recommendation for a not too pricey paella restaurant in Valencia or on the Levante maybe?

 

[Castilian]

Do you have any recommendation for a not too pricey paella restaurant in Valencia or on the Levante maybe?

Sorry, I don't have one. However, I'll give you three tips:

• Avoid to eat a paella if you see any paellador logo (either on the menu or on the street signboard-s- of the restaurant or...) because those are pre-cooked paellas.
  
• Be careful when you see paella offered in a popular tourist destination out of the Valencian community (e.g.: in Toledo).
• In Valencia, ask a local (or some of them) where to eat a not too pricey good paella and you'll most likely succeed.

Extra tip: If you like rice, in Zamora, try an arroz a la zamorana.

 

[KinkyOne]

Sorry, I don't have one. However, I'll give you three tips:

• Avoid to eat a paella if you see any paellador logo (either on the menu or on the street signboard-s- of the restaurant or...) because those are pre-cooked paellas.
  
• Be careful when you see paella offered in a popular tourist destination out of the Valencian community (e.g.: in Toledo).
• In Valencia, ask a local (or some of them) where to eat a not too pricey good paella and you'll most likely succeed.

Extra tip: If you like rice, in Zamora, try an arroz a la zamorana.

Thanks for that. I usually eat by these/similar tips, especially asking locals about places to go.
But arroz a la zamorana - I think that's something I will like a lot Must try!
And once in Galicia I'll try cocido maragato (I just adore intestines, odd animal parts etc.) and, of course, pulpo gallego again. And again

 

[Castilian]

And once in Galicia I'll try cocido maragato

I don't think you'll find a cocido maragato in Galicia. Well, maybe in a restaurant specialized in Leonese cuisine but it won't be (that) easy to find (if you find it). Cocido maragato is typical of the comarca de La Maragatería (León province, Castile and Leon autonomous community) and it's on that comarca where you are more likely to find it. Astorga is the main town in the comarca de La Maragatería and a good place to try it. If you don't bother to make a slight detour from the camino, Castrillo de los Polvazares would be an even better town to try it and the town itself also justify the detour.

P.S.: A peculiarity of the cocido maragato is that it's served the other way around than other cocidos. That's it: you start with the meat(s) and end with the soup...

I just adore intestines, odd animal parts etc.

Don't miss callos, then.
BTW, Have you ever eaten chicken necks? If not, there's a bar in Medina del Campo (a town on the Levante camino) that serves them...

 

[KinkyOne]

I don't think you'll find a cocido maragato in Galicia. Well, maybe in a restaurant specialized in Leonese cuisine but it won't be (that) easy to find (if you find it). Cocido maragato is typical of the comarca de La Maragatería (León province, Castile and Leon autonomous community) and it's on that comarca where you are more likely to find it. Astorga is the main town in the comarca de La Maragatería and a good place to try it. If you don't bother to make a slight detour from the camino, Castrillo de los Polvazares would be an even better town to try it and the town itself also justify the detour.

P.S.: A peculiarity of the cocido maragato is that it's served the other way around than other cocidos. That's it: you start with the meat(s) and end with the soup...



Don't miss callos, then.

Yes, I know the Maragato region isn't really on Levante/Sanabres, but hopefully I will find a restaurant that serves at least similar kind of food.
Callos? Oh, I just adore tripes, even prepare them myself

 

[Castilian]

Yes, I know the Maragato region isn't really on Levante/Sanabres, but hopefully I will find a restaurant that serves at least similar kind of food.

If you were walking in winter it's almost sure you would find some variety of cocido somewhere but in summer is another story because many places don't serve it on summer because consider it to be a dish for cold days... so your chances to find one are lower (e.g.: you can find towns where several restaurants offer it once a week in winter in its menu del día but none of them serves it on summer).

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Laurie,

Isn't there a pic of a large plate of paella in your blog? Or I might have seen that in someone other's blog?

Hi, Kinky, I don't know if it's in my blog or just in my pictures, but I do remember taking a picture of the big paella made in the restaurant in Algemesi on my second day out. It was a Sunday, and a big group (a First Communion, I believe) had ordered a paella for all. As is frequently the case when a pilgrim is sitting alone in a lively festive place, I was invited to join in. Yum. But I also had one in the city of Valencia, I will see if I can find the name. I have a vague memory where it is, so I'll look at a map.

And those are great tips from Castilian -- the other one I'll add is that if you see a restaurant serving paella at night, you can be sure there will be no Spaniards partaking. One of the few things I think every Spaniard I know agrees upon is that paella simply cannot be eaten at night! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

I'm planning non-walking days in Valencia for the aclimatisation (2 days) and one day in Toledo, Avila, Zamora, Ourense & Fisterra.
In between I plan some shorter stages, like 13kms to Algemesi, 15kms to La Font de la Figuera, 18kms to Chinchilla Monte Aragon etc. Sometimes due to acommodations, but mostly for some sight-seeing in the afternoon.
Any other suggestions?

 

[peregrina2000]

Kinky, Are you walking Valencia to Silleda or taking the train? I walked those 12 km one morning, took the train back around noon, and had the rest of the day in Valencia. I thought it went through a couple of nice places (there was a dance program in the square in one of them), even though (like the first four days of this walk) it is every step of the way on asphalt.

Xativa has one of the most amazing castles I've ever visited. It has ruins going back to pre-Visigoth, through Romans, Moors, and Christians, and it is perched along the top of a long narrow high point. I spent a couple of hours there. The walk from Algemesi to Xativa is 31 km, and it's kind of a slog, so get a good early start so you'll have time to visit the castle. I don't think there's a way to break this stage up.

There are lots of other towns with nice things to see, I talked about them all in my blog I'm sure, but I think they are easily visit-able in the afternoons. For me, that's one of the nicest things about this Camino -- there are so many towns where you have lots to do after you've showered and eaten!

I would love to see your stages, Kinky, if it's not too much of a pain to post them. For instance you must be planing to stay in Hoya Gonzalo to make an 18 km day into Chinchilla, but where do you stay the night before? Anyway, it would be fun to see your plans.

Reading about your camino makes me want to go back! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Kinky, Are you walking Valencia to Silleda or taking the train? I walked those 12 km one morning, took the train back around noon, and had the rest of the day in Valencia. I thought it went through a couple of nice places (there was a dance program in the square in one of them), even though (like the first four days of this walk) it is every step of the way on asphalt.

Xativa has one of the most amazing castles I've ever visited. It has ruins going back to pre-Visigoth, through Romans, Moors, and Christians, and it is perched along the top of a long narrow high point. I spent a couple of hours there. The walk from Algemesi to Xativa is 31 km, and it's kind of a slog, so get a good early start so you'll have time to visit the castle. I don't think there's a way to break this stage up.

There are lots of other towns with nice things to see, I talked about them all in my blog I'm sure, but I think they are easily visit-able in the afternoons. For me, that's one of the nicest things about this Camino -- there are so many towns where you have lots to do after you've showered and eaten!

I would love to see your stages, Kinky, if it's not too much of a pain to post them. For instance you must be planing to stay in Hoya Gonzalo to make an 18 km day into Chinchilla, but where do you stay the night before? Anyway, it would be fun to see your plans.

Reading about your camino makes me want to go back! Buen camino, Laurie

Hola, Laurie,

Ivar posted my stages in resource section, because I'm still unable to upload any kind of files... Take a peek.
Algemesi - Xativa is about 26kms according to my sources and I've already made special remarks about that castle
I guess we'll break the long stage between Almansa and Higueruela by detouring to Alpera. And the next day maybe push to Hoya Gonzalo which should be somewhere around 30kms, so that will give us "only" 18kms to Chinchilla. Otherwise it will be 27kms from Higueruela to Chinchilla which is still very doable and enough time left to enjoy the village.

 

[AlanSykes]

I guess we'll break the long stage between Almansa and Higueruela by detouring to Alpera. And the next day maybe push to Hoya Gonzalo which should be somewhere around 30kms, so that will give us "only" 18kms to Chinchilla. Otherwise it will be 27kms from Higueruela to Chinchilla which is still very doable and enough time left to enjoy the village.

I did the Alpera detour, and it was a very friendly town with an excellent new albergue (with a pleasant back yard to dry clothes and enjoy an aperitivo). I had a delicious Sunday lunch in the first restaurant on the left as you get into town (where somebody who knew the hospitalero went to find him and give me the key). I then stopped in Higueruela, where there was a very basic free albergue (and a decent restaurant). There was almost no tarmac on the next day, to Chinchilla de Montearagon, which was a fascinating town built into the side of a hill. It's a pity there's no albergue there: I stayed in the second truck stop on the left on the old highway - if I ever go there again, I will stay in the first one, as I later heard that it was a bit better. It's well worth slogging up the hill to see the forbidding castle, where Cesare Borgia spent a bit of time as a prisoner, and which has fabulous views onwards over the flat flat flat plain of Albacete and La Mancha.

 

[KinkyOne]

I did the Alpera detour, and it was a very friendly town with an excellent new albergue (with a pleasant back yard to dry clothes and enjoy an aperitivo). I had a delicious Sunday lunch in the first restaurant on the left as you get into town (where somebody who knew the hospitalero went to find him and give me the key). I then stopped in Higueruela, where there was a very basic free albergue (and a decent restaurant). There was almost no tarmac on the next day, to Chinchilla de Montearagon, which was a fascinating town built into the side of a hill. It's a pity there's no albergue there: I stayed in the second truck stop on the left on the old highway - if I ever go there again, I will stay in the first one, as I later heard that it was a bit better. It's well worth slogging up the hill to see the forbidding castle, where Cesare Borgia spent a bit of time as a prisoner, and which has fabulous views onwards over the flat flat flat plain of Albacete and La Mancha.
View attachment 16062

Thank you, Alan,

do you remember the distance or at least hours walked from Alpera to Higueruela? Did you backtrack to Levante or went directly from Alpera to Higueruela?
Until now I thought there is only one (El Penon) hostal in Chinchilla. Is this the one you were staying at?

K1

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, K1,
Alpera to Higueruela -- you have two options. You can walk along the highway for 21 kms, or you can backtrack the four kms to the Carrascal ranch, where the two caminos split, and then continue another 20 into Higueruela.

The choice boils down to 21 kms on the highway or 24 kms with 13 off road and 11 along the highway. I hate asphalt, so we went the longer route, it was quite nice, nothing majestic, but the fields were shocking in their greenness.

There are two pensiones right on the highway coming into Chinchilla, I think they are both pretty bad. My notes said we stayed in the second one because it looked less seedy, but Alan's post suggests you might want to try the first one. They're both basic truck stops, cleanliness probably not a high priority.

The Pension Stop in Alpera has a restaurant that is your basic home cooking family run place -- kids doing homework at the tables, grandma folding napkins, dad behind the bar and mom in the kitchen. It has a very nice vibe to it, and the food was honest, not fancy, but tasty.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Donovan]

do you remember the distance or at least hours walked from Alpera to Higueruela? Did you backtrack to Levante or went directly from Alpera to Higueruela?
Until now I thought there is only one (El Penon) hostal in Chinchilla. Is this the one you were staying at?

K1

Hi K1, my photo records tell me I took a little over six hours from Alpera to Higuerela. That time, and some GR 239 signboards I saw suggest a distance of 23km. I did not backtrack to Levante. From Alpera I headed for the train station, (Calle Ramon y Cajal which becomes carretera de la Estación) crossed the rail line then picked up GR 239 signs that took me to Higuerela. From memory about half the walk was on tarmac – the first 2-3km to the train station, then the last 10km when the GR239 is on the carretera B2. The hostal La Posada in Higuerela was very comfortable. Can’t remember the price – probably about 20 Euros.

There are two hotels right next to one another on the main road as you enter Chinchilla – El Volante and El Peñon. I stayed at El Peñon - a bit basic but perfectly adequate. Other pilgrims said the food there was not good.

 

[KinkyOne]

Thank you both @peregrina2000 & @Donovan

I looked at the google maps and also think of going directly to Higueruela which gives me some more time to push on to Hoya Gonzalo. That would be something around 30kms which is quite OK on flat terrain. And only 18kms next day to Chinchilla. But will decide on the spot.

I'm not really worried about the cleanliness as long as there aren't any bedbugs

 

[AlanSykes]

I messed up going from Alpera to Higueruela. I went back to the ranch, as I don't like tarmac either, but then missed the turn (think I should have crossed the railway line after c13km), so it took me 35km to get between the two, rather than 25-7. It was quite a pleasant mostly off-road walk, mainly through vineyards in their autumn colours, but I certainly didn't fancy going on to Hoya-Gonzalo that day. http://runkeeper.com/user/1231186268/activity/461374439 shows how badly I went wrong: should have checked my compass. On the whole I think Higueruela is a better place to stop than Hoya-Gonzalo: as well as the (free) albergue), it also has a couple of shops and bars, and a decent restaurant/hotel (the Posada). Hoya-Gonzalo has a nice bar (the Marín) for snacks, a replica of its Phoenician/Celtiberian horse, a windmill and not a lot else that I can remember, although I did get there at about 10am, so wasn't in need of more than coffee.

I must have stayed at the Peñon at Chinchilla, and was later told the Volante was slightly preferable and the same price (it looked pretty grim as well). The Dalia restaurant up in the town specialised in manchegan cuisine and was quite pleasant (I had a wild rabbit and rice dish), but I was definitely the first person in it at 9pm.

 

[Donovan]

Hi, K1,
Alpera to Higueruela -- you have two options. You can walk along the highway for 21 kms, or you can backtrack the four kms to the Carrascal ranch, where the two caminos split, and then continue another 20 into Higueruela.

The choice boils down to 21 kms on the highway or 24 kms with 13 off road and 11 along the highway. I hate asphalt, so we went the longer route, it was quite nice, nothing majestic, but the fields were shocking in their greenness.

Buen camino, Laurie

Hi Laurie, I think I’ve sorted out what I did. My route was a slight variation on your option 2. I did indeed backtrack to the Almansa-Higuerela camino path (GR239), but the train station route joins the GR239 a couple of km closer to Higuerela than going via Carrascal. Two sides of a triangle, with a small distance saving. This route may be relatively new - it was sketched for me in Alpera by the helpful man I mentioned in an earlier post.

 

[pilgr]

Hola!

I'm planning to walk Valencia to Fisterra (via Sanabres & Muxia) in 2015. I've gathered some info on albergues and distances from various sources (vieiragrino, mundicamino, this forum, some blog posts etc.), but I was unable to upload .pdf file here. You can find it in Camino Resources section (https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-levante-distances-and-acommodation.270/) thanks to @ivar who managed to upload it. If this compilation is helpful to anyone I'll be happy, also I would gladly receive all your comments and additional information.

Ultreia!

Hi Kinky,

I am planning to do the Levante. Any recommendations on English guidebook or apps, and how to get one? I have heard mention reading these posts there is a guidebook in Valencia at some location only open a few hours on fridays. I would like to find something a little more reliable than that.

Thanks
Matt

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi Kinky,

I am planning to do the Levante. Any recommendations on English guidebook or apps, and how to get one? I have heard mention reading these posts there is a guidebook in Valencia at some location only open a few hours on fridays. I would like to find something a little more reliable than that.

Thanks
Matt

Hola, Matt,

Yes, the English guidebook can be purchased in Amigos Asociation office in Valencia. As I remember from the posts here on the forum it is quite heavy and a little bit outdated. More info directly from Asociation you can find here: http://www.vieiragrino.com/
I used info on this forum, at already mentioned link and on Mundicamino (http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=42) to compile sort of a guide. I will make myself a booklet and add a list of albergues & distances (link to it in Resources Section in my OP). You can find gps tracks at Vieiragrino but to cross check it here's another link: http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/routes/details/levante.html. Usually I don't walk with gps device or use it on my smart phone but it's good to know where on the internet I can find it in case of need.

Do you have your dates set already?

Ultreia!

 

[pilgr]

Hola, Matt,

Yes, the English guidebook can be purchased in Amigos Asociation office in Valencia. As I remember from the posts here on the forum it is quite heavy and a little bit outdated. More info directly from Asociation you can find here: http://www.vieiragrino.com/
I used info on this forum, at already mentioned link and on Mundicamino (http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=42) to compile sort of a guide. I will make myself a booklet and add a list of albergues & distances (link to it in Resources Section in my OP). You can find gps tracks at Vieiragrino but to cross check it here's another link: http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/routes/details/levante.html. Usually I don't walk with gps device or use it on my smart phone but it's good to know where on the internet I can find it in case of need.

Do you have your dates set already?

Ultreia!

Thanks! For clarity, where do I find a working doc of albergues and distances? I tried downloading from a posted link but the file seemed corrupted.

I am looking to get into Valencia on a Thursday with the hopeful chance I land the heavy but slightly outdated guide. So maybe I leave Valencia April 25th perhaps. You?

 

[KinkyOne]

Thanks! For clarity, where do I find a working doc of albergues and distances? I tried downloading from a posted link but the file seemed corrupted.

I am looking to get into Valencia on a Thursday with the hopeful chance I land the heavy but slightly outdated guide. So maybe I leave Valencia April 25th perhaps. You?

??? I can open it easily. But maybe send me your E-mail (via PM if you like) and I can send you the .docx file which you can rearrange yourself.

I'm leaving in 4 months, 6th June and start walking on 8th.

 

[pilgr]

Yes, please send: matt_77_77@yahoo.com

Is it an excel file? I can open excel, Word doc and pdfs.

Thanks for your help. As you can probably tell, not too tech savy!

 

[KinkyOne]

It's word file and has been sent. Hope it will be usefull.

 

[KinkyOne]

Here you can see the footage from Levante in the TVE (Spanish National Broadcaster) series. Also a few other Caminos depicted:
http://www.rtve.es/alacarta/videos/nuestros-caminos-a-santiago/nuestros-caminos-santiago/402702/

Enjoy

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks! For clarity, where do I find a working doc of albergues and distances? I tried downloading from a posted link but the file seemed corrupted.

I am looking to get into Valencia on a Thursday with the hopeful chance I land the heavy but slightly outdated guide. So maybe I leave Valencia April 25th perhaps. You?

Hi, pilgr,

I walked the Levante in 2013 with what is now the slightly outdated guide. It was fine, and I couldn't have walked without it. Unlike Kinky, I am "directionally challenged." If you speak Spanish, there is a new Spanish language version available. But the maps have been updated for the older English language version, I have been told, and a translation is on its way.

You can also order the guide online. http://www.vieiragrino.com/tienda/tienda.asp

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[AZgirl]

Hi, pilgr,

I walked the Levante in 2013 with what is now the slightly outdated guide. It was fine, and I couldn't have walked without it. Unlike Kinky, I am "directionally challenged." If you speak Spanish, there is a new Spanish language version available. But the maps have been updated for the older English language version, I have been told, and a translation is on its way.

You can also order the guide online. http://www.vieiragrino.com/tienda/tienda.asp

Buen camino, Laurie

Hi, can you pick up the guide in Valencia or should it be ordered online beforehand? (Though if it is only open on Friday that might not be possible)

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, can you pick up the guide in Valencia or should it be ordered online beforehand? (Though if it is only open on Friday that might not be possible)

Hi, AZgirl,
Your question reminded me that the owner of the Pension Paris in Valencia had told me she was going to find out about an arrangement with the Amigos so she could sell the guide at the Pension. That would be a great service, given the limited hours they are open. I have written to her to see what the status of that plan is, and I'll report back. Otherwise you would have to order it online with an electronic bank transfer. For those of us in the US, this can be a costly proposition. The rest of the world, it seems, easily accomplishes this with no extra charge from their bank, but in the US it is expensive, not sure why.
Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, AZgirl,
Your question reminded me that the owner of the Pension Paris in Valencia had told me she was going to find out about an arrangement with the Amigos so she could sell the guide at the Pension. That would be a great service, given the limited hours they are open. I have written to her to see what the status of that plan is, and I'll report back. Otherwise you would have to order it online with an electronic bank transfer. For those of us in the US, this can be a costly proposition. The rest of the world, it seems, easily accomplishes this with no extra charge from their bank, but in the US it is expensive, not sure why.
Buen camino, Laurie

Hola, Laurie,

but as I understand the guidebook can be also purchased directly from Amigos office???
I'm planning to spend first two nights in Pension Paris also

 

[peregrina2000]

Hola, Laurie,

but as I understand the guidebook can be also purchased directly from Amigos office???
I'm planning to spend first two nights in Pension Paris also

Hi, Kinky, yes that's right but the amigos office is only open for a few hours on Friday and the woman at Pension Paris said she would try to figure something out. And btw, they have a slight pilgrim discount so make sure they know you're a pilgrim! It's in a great location, and is very clean -- what more could you want? BTW, I had a room with bath in the hall and it was even cheaper than the already cheap single room prices, and it was fine. I think you'll like it.

buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, Kinky, yes that's right but the amigos office is only open for a few hours on Friday and the woman at Pension Paris said she would try to figure something out. And btw, they have a slight pilgrim discount so make sure they know you're a pilgrim! It's in a great location, and is very clean -- what more could you want? BTW, I had a room with bath in the hall and it was even cheaper than the already cheap single room prices, and it was fine. I think you'll like it.

buen camino, Laurie

I was going to make reservation via booking.com, but will look for direct contact if there's additional pilgrim discount. Does the lady owner speaks English?
Thanks for insights, Laurie!

 

[peregrina2000]

I was going to make reservation via booking.com, but will look for direct contact if there's additional pilgrim discount. Does the lady owner speaks English?
Thanks for insights, Laurie!

Her name is Vanessa, and I don't know if she speaks English, but I'm sure she can understand a room request and the date. info@pensionparis.com If you want me to write it up in Spanish, just pm me with the text.

I think the discount is 2 euros a night, not a lot but nice of them.

 

[KinkyOne]

Thanks, Laurie,
I guess it's the right time for me to use some Spanish again, after long pause from last year

Yesterday was 8th February and 4 more months for me to start walking Levante. This countdown is so hard

 

[nalod]

Hello, I just got their guide sent to me in Ireland. Cost 24e plus 6e postage. Also asked them to send me a credential, they sent me a word form to fill out and they kindly sent me the credential with the guidebook and maps, they will then send you a pdf file with map amendments.
Dermot

 

[peregrina2000]

Hello, I just got their guide sent to me in Ireland. Cost 24e plus 6e postage. Also asked them to send me a credential, they sent me a word form to fill out and they kindly sent me the credential with the guidebook and maps, they will then send you a pdf file with map amendments.
Dermot

Hi, Dermot, Just wondering if you got the English version or the newer Spanish version, or if you have any info on publication of a new English version.

For those of us in the US, buying this guide online is very costly, not just because postage is more, but because for us (and maybe other countries, I don't know), accomplishing an electronic bank transfer is prohibitively expensive. It'd be great if the Pensión Paris would offer some for sale; maybe a groundswell of support of that idea sent directly to the pensión would be a good nudge. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[nalod]

Hello Peregrina2000. It is the 2009 edition in English, I have hardly any Spanish, so this route will be a major challenge for me, but I will survive. I try learning the language but did not succeed. I believe an electronic international bank transfer from Ireland can cost e15. Here is a tip, we have in Ireland "Credit Unions" they are a different type of bank, they are like a co-operative and they DO NOT charge for international bank transfer.

I will post more nearer my departure date which I think will be mid April.

Dermot

 

[KinkyOne]

Huh, that's nice, two forum members (@pilgr & @nalod ) going Levante before me this year, I guess my walk will be with lots of updates

 

[Donovan]

Her name is Vanessa, and I don't know if she speaks English, but I'm sure she can understand a room request and the date. info@pensionparis.com If you want me to write it up in Spanish, just pm me with the text. .

I had some email correspondence with the Pension Paris last year when making a room reservation. Emails from the hotel were signed by Vanessa and were in excellent English. She sent me an electronic map and instructions on how to get from the airport to the hotel. Very thoughtful, and a great place to stay.

 

[KinkyOne]

Ouch, that hurts...
I just found out that Patti Smith is planning a concert in my hometown on August 2nd and I don't think I'll be back from this years Camino by then... Last year it was almost the same situation with another performer and I do remember that I felt kind of sad although right now I can't remember the band that was on tour through Slovenia at that time. So I gues it wasn't too much of a burden for me. I can quite easily take anything hard while on the Camino, be it physically or psychologically, but to miss a live revival moment of very important part of my youth, well... that... just makes me sad somehow...

 

[KinkyOne]

And in addition to previous post - Bob Dylan is coming over here on 25th June...
But there's no way I'm going to postpone my Levante

 

[peregrina2000]

The camino gods are testing your resolve, Kinky! The countdown continues......

 

[KinkyOne]

The camino gods are testing your resolve, Kinky! The countdown continues......

Indeed it continues - 79 days until take off

 

[LTfit]

A Camino buddy who joined me from Valencia to Toledo last summer will finish up the Levante tomorrow in Zamora (he is now probably enjoying a class of Toro).

He is going to send me updates on the Toledo - Zamora stretch which I will post asap. May help those leaving shortly.

I still need to figure out when I am going to finish it myself (preferably not alone). I think that the 16 days completely alone on the Mozárabe last September was enough for a while. We only met one French peregrina along the Levante last June/July.

@KinkyOne when do you expect to arrive in Toledo?

Re Chinchilla: I found el Piñón just fine. The town is a jewel!

 

[KinkyOne]

A Camino buddy who joined me from Valencia to Toledo last summer will finish up the Levante tomorrow in Zamora (he is now probably enjoying a class of Toro).

He is going to send me updates on the Toledo - Zamora stretch which I will post asap. May help those leaving shortly.

I still need to figure out when I am going to finish it myself (preferably not alone). I think that the 16 days completely alone on the Mozárabe last September was enough for a while. We only met one French peregrina along the Levante last June/July.

@KinkyOne when do you expect to arrive in Toledo?

Re Chinchilla: I found el Piñón just fine. The town is a jewel!

Hola, LTfit,

From Valencia to Toledo it's my plan to walk with Austro-Slovenian peregrina who now lives in Frankfurt, Germany. We've met last year at Madrid airport when I was starting my CdM and she was rreturning from her Norte. We've talked for three hours and got really connected somehow
She only has 3 weeks of leave this year. So that would be approx.on 28th June when we'll be in Toledo (she returning home)/starting from Toledo (me) . Nothing is certain yet as I only know my start date (08th June) from Valencia and will purchase return flight ticket only when cca.2 weeks from ending at Fisterra

You're most welcome although it's quite OK for me if I walk "alone". One other thing - bring earplugs (so I was told)

Have a nice day!

 

[saw123]

And in addition to previous post - Bob Dylan is coming over here on 25th June...
But there's no way I'm going to postpone my Levante

hey kinky one
bob and patti were good in there day, some good things must come to an end. remember them as they were, and enjoy your Levante, a truly unique experience!

 

[LTfit]

Thanks @KinkyOne for the update. I've started 6 out of my 8 Caminos alone (by choice) so walking alone obviously doesn't bother me. I have met people who later joined me on other Caminos but we already knew each other. As I mentioned above, 16 days from Granada without another pilgrim in sight was a whole other experience! Luckily I speak Spanish so I would chat with whomever was interested in listening.

Still up in the air about this summer due to some work issues. So the trial is still out as to whether I can join Laurie from Monserrat which I would love to do. Won't know for another few weeks so therefore thinking of alternatives (finishing the Levante being one). The other to leave from Lisbon but that's a whole other topic!

Update last stage Levante Toro-Zamora:
Received a whatsapp yesterday from my friend bitching about it. I will leave out a few words due to censorship but the general point is that Levante signage is poor (at times followed the GR signs which "sends you around in circles"). I had given him a heads-up where Laurie had gotten lost (after passing a cement factory and crossing a river). He said that if you pay attention at that point you will be ok so the problem must have been after that. He said that it was a stage to "forget, beter to take a bus". Knowning him, it must really have been bad as we have walked over 1000 km together and I have never heard him complain so much!

I guess we need to have a group of Amigos get out and paint some new arrows.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Lee, I wonder if your friend got lost in that eucalyptus forest where we wandered around till a guy on a tractor magically appeared and told us we were heading the wrong way! Once we found our way to the fishing spot on the river we were fine, but it was a long boring slog on the side of a the road (thankfully untraveled).

I know you're working things out -- as far as I'm concerned, you can show up in Montserrat the day I walk in -- no advance notice required. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[sulu]

Hi K1
Just a couple of updates on albergues:
La Font de la Figuera has a new albergue, on the camino on the way out of town, keys are still with the police. It is fully equipped and free at the moment.
San Clemente - the Tourist Office has moved, it is now in The Plaza Mayor.
Enjoy your walk,
Sue

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi K1
Just a couple of updates on albergues:
La Font de la Figuera has a new albergue, on the camino on the way out of town, keys are still with the police. It is fully equipped and free at the moment.
San Clemente - the Tourist Office has moved, it is now in The Plaza Mayor.
Enjoy your walk,
Sue

Thanks for the update, Sue.
I have info that La Font de la Figuera albergue is in Polideportivo and has room for 4 persons with kitchen. Is this already the new albergue or the old one?

Thanks for your blog also which I'll read very soon

 

[sulu]

Thanks for the update, Sue.
I have info that La Font de la Figuera albergue is in Polideportivo and has room for 4 persons with kitchen. Is this already the new albergue or the old one?

Thanks for your blog also which I'll read very soon

It's the old one, the new one has room for 12.

 

[KinkyOne]

It's the old one, the new one has room for 12.

Wow, this will be very cozy
I guess Polideportivo is out of the game then. No worries, I'll found it.

 

[KinkyOne]

Every Camino and all of my mountaineering I've done with boots (above ankles) but more I'm looking at profiles, photos and data for Levante the more I'm thinking of at least starting with my low-cut (below ankles) hiking shoes. It will be very hot I'm suspecting and my Salomons have very thin mesh/membrane above the toes and at upper part of the sides. Last year on Camino de Madrid walking outside Madrid a lot on tarmac my boots gave me my first blister on Caminos and don't really want to deal with such thing again this year. I mean there are four days out of Valencia on tarmac as I can read from different sources...
The other side of it is that I'm not really used to walk long distance with low-cut shoes and therefore kind of afraid I might twist my ankle (just did that 4 days ago but not in the mentioned shoes). I'll bring my boots in any case because they're almost falling apart and just want to give them a well deserved and honourable end So the question is whether to bring along the shoes too. Don't really know how much they weight but I guess less than half a kilo which I can live with.
So I would like to ask you Levante veterans:
1.) what do you in general think of this boots/shoes issue?
and
2.) what parts of Levante you remember as the most rugged terrain (large/loose stones, cobbled, via Romana etc.)?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[KinkyOne]

Very exciting!!!

You'll be close as I see from one other VdlP thread

 

[KinkyOne]

How are you doing so far peregrinos @pilgr & @nalod ???

 

[Kevin F. O*brien]

Thanks @KinkyOne for the update. I've started 6 out of my 8 Caminos alone (by choice) so walking alone obviously doesn't bother me. I have met people who later joined me on other Caminos but we already knew each other. As I mentioned above, 16 days from Granada without another pilgrim in sight was a whole other experience! Luckily I speak Spanish so I would chat with whomever was interested in listening.

Still up in the air about this summer due to some work issues. So the trial is still out as to whether I can join Laurie from Monserrat which I would love to do. Won't know for another few weeks so therefore thinking of alternatives (finishing the Levante being one). The other to leave from Lisbon but that's a whole other topic!

Update last stage Levante Toro-Zamora:
Received a whatsapp yesterday from my friend bitching about it. I will leave out a few words due to censorship but the general point is that Levante signage is poor (at times followed the GR signs which "sends you around in circles"). I had given him a heads-up where Laurie had gotten lost (after passing a cement factory and crossing a river). He said that if you pay attention at that point you will be ok so the problem must have been after that. He said that it was a stage to "forget, beter to take a bus". Knowning him, it must really have been bad as we have walked over 1000 km together and I have never heard him complain so much!

I guess we need to have a group of Amigos get out and paint some new arrows.[/QUOTE

 

[Kevin F. O*brien]

I messed up going from Alpera to Higueruela. I went back to the ranch, as I don't like tarmac either, but then missed the turn (think I should have crossed the railway line after c13km), so it took me 35km to get between the two, rather than 25-7. It was quite a pleasant mostly off-road walk, mainly through vineyards in their autumn colours, but I certainly didn't fancy going on to Hoya-Gonzalo that day. http://runkeeper.com/user/1231186268/activity/461374439 shows how badly I went wrong: should have checked my compass. On the whole I think Higueruela is a better place to stop than Hoya-Gonzalo: as well as the (free) albergue), it also has a couple of shops and bars, and a decent restaurant/hotel (the Posada). Hoya-Gonzalo has a nice bar (the Marín) for snacks, a replica of its Phoenician/Celtiberian horse, a windmill and not a lot else that I can remember, although I did get there at about 10am, so wasn't in need of more than coffee.

I must have stayed at the Peñon at Chinchilla, and was later told the Volante was slightly preferable and the same price (it looked pretty grim as well). The Dalia restaurant up in the town specialised in manchegan cuisine and was quite pleasant (I had a wild rabbit and rice dish), but I was definitely the first person in it at 9pm.[/

I messed up going from Alpera to Higueruela. I went back to the ranch, as I don't like tarmac either, but then missed the turn (think I should have crossed the railway line after c13km), so it took me 35km to get between the two, rather than 25-7. It was quite a pleasant mostly off-road walk, mainly through vineyards in their autumn colours, but I certainly didn't fancy going on to Hoya-Gonzalo that day. http://runkeeper.com/user/1231186268/activity/461374439 shows how badly I went wrong: should have checked my compass. On the whole I think Higueruela is a better place to stop than Hoya-Gonzalo: as well as the (free) albergue), it also has a couple of shops and bars, and a decent restaurant/hotel (the Posada). Hoya-Gonzalo has a nice bar (the Marín) for snacks, a replica of its Phoenician/Celtiberian horse, a windmill and not a lot else that I can remember, although I did get there at about 10am, so wasn't in need of more than coffee.

I must have stayed at the Peñon at Chinchilla, and was later told the Volante was slightly preferable and the same price (it looked pretty grim as well). The Dalia restaurant up in the town specialised in manchegan cuisine and was quite pleasant (I had a wild rabbit and rice dish), but I was definitely the first person in it at 9pm.

Hello again Alan, haha Almansa to Hig again! Yes, you turn right at the railway line and go over the bridge. I hope it wasn't too hot that day. To all concerned it is 42,5 km direct from Almansa to Hig., Best. Kev

 

[nalod]

Writing this from Dublin Airport returning from doing the Levante. The guide book in English from the Valencia amagios and Laurie notes made me survive. Over the next week I will give updates and info. Then I will have a photo section.. Don't leave without the notes of Laurie. Regards Dermot

 

[LTfit]

...and may I add read them before you do the stage and not after...

Wondering how you managed on the last stage from Toro. We have all found new caminos into Zamora.

 

[LTfit]

@KinkyOne shoes: I gave up on walking shoes after my first two Caminos in the summer. Three different Merrill low-cut boots and many blisters later led me to running shoes. I haven't looked back since - even in April in the mountains after Avila and in the rain. But I do not have ankle issues.

They are light and breathe beter. Only disadvantage is the cost. I need a new pair after each Camino.

 

[nalod]

Hello LTfit and all. Managed into Zamora . Because of yours and Laurie forewarning I was extra careful. I decided for the help of others to photograph every arrow after the Quarry to find out where the problems arose and think I have the solution. I will get around to the photos in due course.
Here is where I think the problem arose. After a few km in after the Quarry you are walking close to the river, the path goes straight ahead there is a small concrete building a pump house (on the left)and a smaller path to the left (sharp right angled left). You have been going straight up to now and river following at first glance no arrow, but the arrow is on the "blind side " of the little building, it is only if you look completely left that you see it. The natural rhythm would be to go straight on on the bigger path, also you can see Zamora in the distance and would think the path straight ahead would lead more directly to Zamora,thinking that the small left path would lead you away from the City. I will deal wit this and few other matters when I get organised.
Dermot

 

[KinkyOne]

Hello LTfit and all. Managed into Zamora . Because of yours and Laurie forewarning I was extra careful. I decided for the help of others to photograph every arrow after the Quarry to find out where the problems arose and think I have the solution. I will get around to the photos in due course.
Here is where I think the problem arose. After a few km in after the Quarry you are walking close to the river, the path goes straight ahead there is a small concrete building a pump house (on the left)and a smaller path to the left (sharp right angled left). You have been going straight up to now and river following at first glance no arrow, but the arrow is on the "blind side " of the little building, it is only if you look completely left that you see it. The natural rhythm would be to go straight on on the bigger path, also you can see Zamora in the distance and would think the path straight ahead would lead more directly to Zamora,thinking that the small left path would lead you away from the City. I will deal wit this and few other matters when I get organised.
Dermot

According to this I guess I have wrong description:
"Desde Villaralbo hasta Zamora hay únicamente 4,5 kms., que recorreremos por la C- 605; los últimos 2,5 kms. son peligrosos porque vamos a tener por compañeros de peregrinaje a los automóviles. Deberemos ser especialmente cuidadosos en este tramo y cumplir con todas las recomendaciones de Tráfico para peatones en estas circunstancias. La entrada en Zamora atravesando el Duero por el puente romano, bien merece la cautela anterior."
I'm taking the notes

 

[LTfit]

This is like a soap...can't wait for the next installment!

 

[KinkyOne]

This is like a soap...can't wait for the next installment!

You have walked that already, Lee
I haven't...

If I know myself well I'm destinated to discover a whole new approach and entrance into Zamora

 

[nalod]

I am sorry and cant read Spanish, but the map in my book is not the way the arrows go, the right turn after the Quarry is not mentioned in my English version book. Done a quick google translate and yes the last few kms are on a straight long narrow road with fast traffic, there are arrows. I entered Zamora by the same bridge as the Via de la Plata people but from complete the opposite direction.

 

[KinkyOne]

I am sorry and cant read Spanish, but the map in my book is not the way the arrows go, the right turn after the Quarry is not mentioned in my English version book. Done a quick google translate and yes the last few kms are on a straight long narrow road with fast traffic, there are arrows. I entered Zamora by the same bridge as the Via de la Plata people but from complete the opposite direction.

Do I understand you well that you're referring to the stretch from Toro to Villaralbo then?
Here it is:
"Toro - Villalazán- 18.4 Km
Salimos de Toro a través de la carretera en dirección Fuente Saúco- Salamanca.Hemos de cruzar un paso a nivel, cruzar un puente y seguir el camino de la derecha. En cuanto veamos el primer cruce, giraremos a la derecha, de modo que caminaremos junto a la orilla del Duero. Cuando el camino gire a la izquierda y se cruce con otro, nosotros seguiremos por la derecha. Seguimos recto hasta encontrar la carretera. Nos quedan aproximadamente 6 kms. hasta la localidad de Villalazán."

and Google translation:
"Toro - Villalazán- 18.4 Km
Toro out through the road towards Fuente Saúco- Salamanca.Hemos crossing a level crossing, cross a bridge and follow the path on the right. As we see the first intersection, turn right, so we will walk along the banks of the Duero. When the road turn left and cross another, we will continue to the right. Continue straight until you reach the road. We are approximately 6 kms. to the town of Villalazán."

No need to clarify this immediately, I have two weeks left to deal with this

 

[LTfit]

No @KinkyOne he is talking about the stretch after that. A little ways after the town along the road you will see an arrow pointing to the right which takes you by a quarry and along the river. It was after this point that I lost the arrows and made up my own camino till the last town before Zamora where I picked up the GR then arrows into the city.

 

[KinkyOne]

@KinkyOne shoes: I gave up on walking shoes after my first two Caminos in the summer. Three different Merrill low-cut boots and many blisters later led me to running shoes. I haven't looked back since - even in April in the mountains after Avila and in the rain. But I do not have ankle issues.

They are light and breathe beter. Only disadvantage is the cost. I need a new pair after each Camino.

How are you dealing with small stones that get in your shoes, if any? Taking shoes off every now and then or...?
I think that can happen more times comparing to boots.

 

[Castilian]

Just in case it could be any useful, I commented some possible options for the leg between Villalazán and Zamora on this post:

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/recent-camino.26572/#post-256624

 

[KinkyOne]

Just in case it could be any useful, I commented some possible options for the leg between Villalazán and Zamora on this post:

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/recent-camino.26572/#post-256624

Thank you Castillan.
I remember that post but completely forgot about it although I've made remark in my guide for GR-14. Now when I looked at maps once more (31 & 32 - I also downloaded them) I'm sure the distance is almost the same and I'll take detour to Madridanos and walk on GR-14. I think it's the simplest option. And much less tarmac walking.