- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2015-2023 walked all or part of CF 11 times
| Remove ads on the forum by becoming a donating member. More here. |
|---|
I like these options @peregrina2000.More common stopping points than Lestedo are Ponte Ulla (13 km from Bandeira) or the albergue in Outeiro (18 km from Bandeira). I’ve stayed in both of these places, and the guide has a lot of information about your options there. All of these places for your “last night” will give you a comfortable walk into Santiago the next day (13 km from Lestedo, 18 from the albergue in Outeiro, and about 23 from Ponte Ulla).
The place right by the bridge is excellent, too, but of course a different price range. The señora was sorting pimentos when I came in and boy oh boy were they ever good!If you feel like splurging on a fancy meal, the restaurant villa verde is another feather in Ponte Ulla's cap:
To be clear, my dream scenario is not "Pilgrims mass or bust."I usually walk with people who are crazy enough to want to do that no matter where we stay, so I have left as early as 4, maybe even earlier. You just need to set your alarm earlier, @Raggy!
Since we're all thinking of ways to prolong the walk, we should also mention the small off-camino climb that offers a first view of Santiago. Is it Pico Sacro, just after Outeiro?
My favourite too. Arrival from the Sanabres in 2018Of the three ways I've enteted Santiago (on the Francés, the Ingles, and the Sanabres/Invierno) this is my favorite. It's how one sneaks up on the city and then crests a hill by the Ciduad de Cultura to clearly see the spires of the Cathedral straight ahead.
Annette,Pension OCrucerio is a lovely hostal.
Room with a huge bathroom was €35
HiAnnette,
I am wondering when you stayed here. I had a room with a huge bathroom when I went through in 2017, but it had disappeared and only a small bathroom with shower was there in 2019.
Oh, that's a fun idea!Maybe people should chime in with their favorites “to do” in Santiago.
JUST BEING THERE...Oh, that's a fun idea!
Connecting with forum/walking friends in Santiago over long sobremesas, eating pimentos de padron wherever I can find them, tea and breakfast at the Tertulia, mass at the cathedral and English-language mass offerred by Fr Manny, walking in the city, buying a few small presents for absent friends, just being there and enjoying the vibe.
Other than an exhibit of camino artfacts at the Cidade de Cultura in 2015, I never get around to going to any museums in Santiago.
Thank you so much for this thread, Laurie, and to everyone for your beautiful contributions. It's been a joy.
Unfortunately, none of these three hotels are currently accepting bookings on their websites for any dates in 2021.Lestedo to Santiago (13 km)
Maybe people should chime in with their favorites “to do” in Santiago. Some don’t do any
For years I stayed in the Hotel Costa Vella, which is a very nice hotel with a gorgeous outdoor garden for breakfast and a bar in the afternoon. The family-owned business includes two other hotels on the same street, the Altair, and the Moure.
alk the Invierno in April/May of 2022? It would be wonderful to meet!
Thanks again,
Rowena
Good idea for a new thread on the general forum, so I've started one. Feel free to copy your ideas over here.Maybe people should chime in with their favorites “to do” in Santiago.
I so hope that's caution! I have a soft spot for the Altair because I've stayed there twice and am very touched by the kindness of the staff. They booked a salon appointment for my friend without batting an eye, and the second time I was there after a gap of four years, the receptionist rembered the previous stay and asked how she was.I am not sure if this means that they are being cautious or if it is more permanent.
Sad this camino is coming to an end but nice to re-experience those feelings even just a little bit from afar. Have felt like we've been on a journey together, loved reminiscing with you all, and grateful to @peregrinna2000 for leading us out of muddy holes, drenching rain, angry dogs and closed facilities. Plus we now have so many off-camino attractions that just have to be checked out, we all need to go again. Would be lovely to catch up with any of you on the Invierno. Who knows, maybe in 2022 or later. . .Maybe people should chime in with their favorites “to do” in Santiago. I am pretty sure I speak for many of us when I say that San Martín Pinario has become my go-to place. Its albergue rooms are the perfect mix of creature comforts (clean crisp ironed sheets, private bath) and simple no-frills living in the old seminarian rooms. There are hotel rooms in the building as well, but if I were going to splurge, I think I'd head farther afield.
@CaroleH, I don’t know anyone else who has walked up here, can you describe it a bit more? On a road? Walking trail? Lots of people? Since it’s such a traditional and well known site in Galicia, I wonder if the crowds head up and you find tchotchke sellers and chiringuitos, etc. Or just a quiet contemplative viewing spot over lots of Galicia.Pico Sacro... on our first camino in 2006 we hid our packs in the bushes at its base and climbed to the top. Great view. Recommend.
I forgot to say that I have written to them to ask this question. No response yet. But I notice that on their website, you can see that some of the rooms have small balconies with nice views. So I would go for one of those rooms unless you know that the windows open, because from the picture of the outside of the hotel, it could be one of those places where the windows open, if at all, for an inch or two.If anyone has stayed at The Hotel Via Argentum in Silleda— Do windows open in the bedrooms?
I forgot to say that I have written to them to ask this question. No response yet. But I notice that on their website, you can see that some of the rooms have small balconies with nice views. So I would go for one of those rooms unless you know that the windows open, because from the picture of the outside of the hotel, it could be one of those places where the windows open, if at all, for an inch or two.
The section that might concern you is after the Invierno merges with the Sanabres. I noticed that someone upthread mentioned that they noticed that the way became more crowded after Lalin. Hehe. Everything is relative.QUESTION...if we decided to do the Invierno in Oct or Nov. 2021...do you think we would need reservations for the last stages?
Rowena! Glad a lot of your questions were answered! I still have a few more.
Like...on the CF, Is there a listing of albergues open for the Invierno In the Winter months? If not, it might be helpful as it is promoted as a winter option for the CF. Would you or have you walked this route this route between November - February and what were the conditions and services like?
Yes, that’s the Pico Sacro in the distance of your shot. I once walked up to that castro, too, @CaroleH, which is the Spanish term for those prehistoric hill forts, but all I found was a place filled with trash under a covering. Nothing much renovated that I could see. So that is not an ascent I would recommend, except for the nice view you got of Pico Sacro! I remember it being really hot that day as well.it wasn't Pico Sacro we went up. The old Ben Cole guide book calls it a 'castro' , just before the big descent into Puente Ulla.
Just heard back from the hotel that yes indeed their windows do open!If anyone has stayed at The Hotel Via Argentum in Silleda— Do windows open in the bedrooms?
There is no similar list for the Invierno that I know of. That’s probably due to the fact that the Invierno has so few private albergues, which are the accommodations that tend to close in winter on the Francés. The private pensiones are not geared to Invierno pilgrims, and are likely to remain open year round. The one place we had some questions was in Las Médulas, since its accommodations are directed at the tourist trade, which drops off in winter. The hotel at the entrance of town seems to open and close on a whim, but the Agoga and Casa Socorro both confirmed to me via email that they are open year round.Like...on the CF, Is there a listing of albergues open for the Invierno In the Winter months? If not, it might be helpful as it is promoted as a winter option for the CF.
Yes, that’s the Pico Sacro in the distance of your shot. I once walked up to that castro, too, @CaroleH, which is the Spanish term for those prehistoric hill forts, but all I found was a place filled with trash under a covering. Nothing much renovated that I could see. So that is not an ascent I would recommend, except for the nice view you got of Pico Sacro! I remember it being really hot that day as well.
If some forum member undertakes the ascent to Pico Sacro, please report back!
The Casa del Casal, the Lestedo Casa Rural, has some information on its website. The photo shows a nice mirador with good views. In addition, it seems there are a couple of caves up there (where the dragon lived) -- one seems a bit dangerous, the other easier to enter. For those who are really interested, there is a Centro de Interpretacion about Pico Sacro in Lestedo. There you can find out all about its geology, its legends, its religious significance.
Just heard back from the hotel that yes indeed their windows do open!
There is no similar list for the Invierno that I know of. That’s probably due to the fact that the Invierno has so few private albergues, which are the accommodations that tend to close in winter on the Francés. The private pensiones are not geared to Invierno pilgrims, and are likely to remain open year round. The one place we had some questions was in Las Médulas, since its accommodations are directed at the tourist trade, which drops off in winter. The hotel at the entrance of town seems to open and close on a whim, but the Agoga and Casa Socorro both confirmed to me via email that they are open year round.
Is there a listing of albergues open for the Invierno In the Winter months?
If you open the albergue detail page on Gronze, there is usually a section for "Datos Basicos" that includes the albergue's dates of operation and closed periods - For example, the Albergue de peregrinos de Xagoaza has the following information.There is no similar list for the Invierno that I know of. That’s probably due to the fact that the Invierno has so few private albergues, which are the accommodations that tend to close in winter on the Francés.
Hi Marbe2,
I haven’t walked any Camino in winter, but I have walked in the first half of
November and it was vey rainy and windy. Sarah’s videos were done a month later, if I recall correctly, and the weather was even worse, with flooding and lots of mud. I don’t know if I would have wanted to carry on every day wet and cold like that!
So no, I would try in the future to be arriving in Santiago by the end of October. The Portugués was ideal for me in the fall, because it was short enough to avoid being too hot at the beginning or too cold at the end. Besides, in the cold weather there is more gear required, which would need to be carried if the weather was mild.
In 2019, after the end of October, I found that several albergues had already closed on the Muxia Fisterra loop. I think you would have to check with them individually closer to the time. I book ahead from home as little as possible, just the first two or three nights and my stay in Santiago.
Buen Camino!
Climate graphs show Ponferrada and SdC to have roughly similar temperatures and hours of daylight in November. But SdC has about twice as much precipitation.If you or anyone has walked both caminos routes in November is there any real difference weatherwise between Ponferrada and SdC? Is the Invierno actually warmer than the CF in November? Or, is it just that the elevation On the Invierno does not reach the height of OCebriero making the liklihood of significant snow less?
The Ribeira Sacra is its own microclimate (more mediterranian than the generally Atlantic weather of Galicia), which is why there are Vineyards there and have been since the time of the Romans.Is the Invierno actually warmer than the CF in November?
Thank you @VNwalking. Informative! I looked on google and this region appears to cover from about Quiroga to Chantada along the Sil river, indeed a mediteranean climate but with 700-800mm of rain. However, another text includes Ponferrada. The articles mention the area near the canyon can be quite windy as well.The Ribeira Sacra is its own microclimate (more mediterranian than the generally Atlantic weather of Galicia), which is why there are Vineyards there and have been since the time of the Romans.
Sobradelo is the first town you will come to, and it has all services. For accommodations, the only game in town is Bar Mar, where there is an albergue of sorts. I have no first hand experience, because I always walk from Médulas to Barco de Valdeorras. I have been photographed for his facebook page, though, a tradition in Bar Mar.
My favorite place to stop is across the street from Bar Mar at the Centro Social. Very nice people, home-cooked food with good prices.
If you walk down into town, there is a good restaurant at the other side of the historical bridge. I think it was @Rebekah who recommended it and has eaten there.
Hello everyone.
I have created a map of the Camino de Invierno and would like to share it with all of you.
On the map I detail my stages made in 2017 and 2019, and also the different shortcuts and variants that we find on the route (some are described in this thread). Also accommodation for pilgrims, cafes, restaurants and rest areas. I will continue to update the map with fountains and interesting places to visit.
There are stages with more than 25 kilometers, but it is possible to divide them or plan them differently.
This is the link to the map:
Camino de Invierno - Google My Maps
Trazado de las diferentes etapas y sus variantes o alternativas. Incluye los alojamientos y servicios que nos encontraremos a lo largo de esta ruta de peregrinación.www.google.com
The map is in Spanish. My English is poor and I write to you thanks to Google Translator.
I describe the different variants in the following lines:
01. Ponferrada - Las Médulas
Alternative route 1.
It is an unmarked shortcut that does not go up to Villavieja and Cornatel Castle, avoid climbing the 300 meters of unevenness to the castle, the subsequent descent, and we subtract 4 kilometers from this long stage.
02. Las Medulas - Sobradelo
Alternative route 2.
It leads us directly to the Hostal La Torre to continue further along the official route.
Alternative route 3.
Another short cut that leads us to a fountain.
03.Sobradelo - A Rúa de Valdeorras
Alternative route 4.
It is not signposted and it is not recommended, as it runs along the shoulder of a road with little traffic and the only advantage it has is that it is shorter and without slopes.
Alternative route 5.
It leads us directly to the Xagoaza hostel.
Alternative route 6.
It is the route what John Brierley describes in his guide from O Barco to Penouta.
Alternative route 7.
Straight and shorter section through the center of the town where we find all kinds of services.
04. To Rúa de Valdeorras - Quiroga
Alternative route 8.
It has been signposted for a long time, as it was the old route. It leads us directly to Soldón along the old disused road. It is shorter and with hardly any unevenness. We only need to be careful when crossing the low-traffic N-120 road.
View attachment 94618
Official route
View attachment 94619
Alternative route.
05. Quiroga - Monforte de Lemos.
We have always divided this stage, but Google Maps does not allow me more layers.
Alternative route 9.
Small shortcut that many pilgrims have taken without knowing, as it continues straight on a road with little traffic and does not pass through the town of San Clodio.
Alternative route 10.
It is the route that they must walk from Barxa de Lor to Salcedo if the accommodation is in that town. The following day, following the route, they link up with the official route before reaching A Pobra do Brollón.
Alternative route 11.
It is the old route that takes us to the walls of the medieval fortress of Monforte de Lemos.
06. Monforte de Lemos - Chantada
Alternative route 12.
Small shortcut following the lightly trafficked road in a straight line to Moreda. If we want to visit the Romanesque church we must deviate a few meters at the end.
07. Chantada - Rodeiro
Alternative route 13.
It is known as Variante por Mouricios and avoids going up to Monte Faro. In winter with snow or a lot of fog it is recommended. It is signposted with yellow arrows, it is shorter and rises to a lower elevation than of Monte Faro.
View attachment 94620
Yellow arrow in the stone.
Alternative route 14.
If we decide to go up to Monte Faro, we have the possibility of taking this shortcut that leads us from the hermitage to Rodeiro along a much shorter route, but with a long and steep descent at the beginning, not suitable for all audiences.
08. Rodeiro - A Laxe
There is an alternative route that runs along an agricultural service road without traffic, parallel to the PO-533 road. There are 16 km of asphalt from Rodeiro to Lalín.
It was only recommended when in seasons of heavy rain many sections of this stage were flooded. In recent months the Xunta de Galicia has improved the route and that problem no longer exists. Emiliano Meijone (Lalín Centro Hostel) has verified this in recent days.
I hope it will be useful to clarify doubts and plan stages.
Saludos ;-)
Hi, Filly,When I stayed at the Xunta albergue at Outeiro, having bought provisions at Ponte Ulla, I recall the hospitaleiro (a lady) was really angry and unhelpful regarding the use of the kitchen as she provided meals herself...
Some years ago as the fateful train accident had taken place.
I am scheduled to return this year, leaving Seville on 26 August. Not ideal schedule but accommodating a fellow hiker from France.Hope to take Laurie’s detour to the waterfalls!
Does anyone know exactly where the old road to Soldon starts which Freecat refers to and shows arrow towards?@FreeCat I read(post 450)
04. To Rúa de Valdeorras - Quiroga
Alternative route 8.
It has been signposted for a long time, as it was the old route. It leads us directly to Soldón along the old disused road. It is shorter and with hardly any unevenness. We only need to be careful when crossing the low-traffic N-120 road.
I saw arrow crossing to old road on the photo. Gronze’s map does not appear to show where this starts? Can you give us an idea where we can pick this up? Leaving A Rua or further down? Can you be more specific? Thanks!
The arrow shown in Freecat's post is at the bottom of the long steep descent from Bendilló to the highway N-120.Does anyone know exactly where the old road to Soldon starts which Freecat refers to and shows arrow towards?
I saw arrow crossing to old road on the photo. Gronze’s map does not appear to show where this starts? Can you give us an idea where we can pick this up? Leaving A Rua or further down? Can you be more specific? Thanks!
The arrow shown in Freecat's post is at the bottom of the long steep descent from Bendilló to the highway N-120.
This is what I wrote re: the route to Soldon:
In June 2019, there appeared to be a route change (from that listed in the forum guide) once the descending path from Bendilló joins the highway N-120.
The old route was still marked with yellow arrows painted on the road that take you across the highway (N-120) and onto an access road into Soldón. There is also now a new mojón that keeps you on the right side of the highway and immediately ascends a steep hill up and beside the right side of the N-120. I didn’t feel like climbing at that point and decided to stick with the old waymarking crossing to the left side of the highway. It was just fine. The first part of the path was a bit overgrown until it joined a tarmac road into Soldon. I expect with the new routing, it may not be maintained and will eventually become completely overgrown. I don’t know where the new ascending route on the right side of the highway ultimately goes.
Waymarking had also been reported as confusing through Soldón but this must have been corrected because it was very clear.
A Rúa to Quiroga (26 km)
A Rúa to Quiroga is 26 km. It’s a beautiful stage, especially the first part. Lots of views down to the Sil River. Much of what used to be a LOT of road walking (on untraveled roads) has been taken off road, though there is still a fair amount. Even though the distance is just a bit over the 25 km goal, many people have broken it up into shorter stages. Here are several ways to do that:
1. Train option (thanks, Charrito). Arrive in A Rúa after 14 km from Barco. Leave your backpack in your pensión or hotel. Walk 10 km on to Montefurado. Take the 6:14 pm train back to A Rúa. The next morning, catch the 10 am train to Montefurado and carry on.
2. Second train option. If you sleep in A Rúa and want to walk to Montefurado the next day and return again to A Rúa to sleep, the best option would be to spend the morning in A Rúa doing chores, and then walk the 10 km in the afternoon. Otherwise, you are going to have a LONG wait in Montefurado. The only train option is at 6:14 pm.
3. A Rúa to Soldón is about 20. The apartamentos available for rent are described in detail on p. 23 of the guide. @ranthr and others can chime in with opinions. Soldón is surely a very tiny village without anything going on. But the apartamentos look nice, the owners will do grocery shopping for you, and it is directly on the camino. In summer, it will be a lot more lively, because of the chirringuito (bar) right on the river. The huge pylons that support the highway overhead don’t add to the charm, but they did give shade on a hot sunny day. I have never slept in these apartments, but I spoke with the owner in 2019 when I walked through, and he seemed very nice and interested in pilgrims.
If you choose to go all the way to Quiroga, you will go up and down to the river a couple of times, through nice little hamlets, along the river with gorgeous views, and through vineyards during the latter parts of the stage.
I know that some have shortened the stage into Quiroga a bit by going directly into town along the side of the highway. It’s the LU- 933, which you have been following for kms since leaving A Rúa. A little before Soldón, the 933 merges with the national highway N 120, so the traffic picks up. If you stay on the road, you will not visit the castle of Torrenovas, which isn’t in great shape, but the walk from there has some really pretty parts through green woods and bubbling brooks.
Lots of lodging options in Quiroga, so we are open for opinions! There is a youth hostel, so beware of large exuberant groups of young people. My go-to place is the Quiper, all details in the guide. And hands down my favorite restaurant is the Aroza, which is a little off the main drag. On my first Invierno in 2008, a Cuban woman in a small grocery shop recommended that I try it. That was after we had decided that if the powers that be left it to us, we could figure out how to restore harmony between our respective countries.
I like the town of Quiroga a lot. But in 2019, I walked 2 kms further on to San Clodio, the place where Quiroga’s train station is located. There is a very nice 1 star hotel, the Hotel las Vegas, good food, lovely enclosed outdoor shaded terrace. After a lunch there, I walked down to the river “beach”, where lots of people were enjoying the late afternoon. I also walked out to the church, which has a remnant or two of Romanesque, but wasn’t a must-see site.
Hi, Marbe2,Hi, I am working on the A Rua to Quiroga section and I have been following it on Google maps. Have you or anyone followed the road from Soldon, detouring thru Sequerios, over the river, to Las Vegas Hotel in San Clodio. Looks like it would save me at least 1 km. Looking at Quiroga on the Satellite, I might skip it? Also thought this alt.route might be more picturesque.
Thanks Laurie. I guess my question is: For Stage 1 sleep in Borrenes or sleep in one of the Casa Rurales in Orellan if want to visit Mirador de Orellan on first stage and Las Medulas on the way to Sobradelo for stage 2. Covid permitting, I’m hoping to go sometime in late September to early November & planning with a friend. This time around want to meander and see surrounding sites instead of plowing ahead. This post & all contributors make imagination and dreams soar. Delighted and thankful for all of you. AymarahOrellan is both the name of a town and the name of the best lookout point (mirador). The standard Invierno route doesn’t take you straight to the lookout point, but deposits you in the town of Las médulas. From there it’s about 3 km up to the lookout and then back to town. There is an alternate route from Borrenes that takes you up and around, so that you come into Las Medulas from the “back way.” On that route you walk through the village of Orellan and then arrive at the lookout point. Then it’s an easy walk down into the village of Las Medulas. I took this
alternative on my most recent Invierno, and it was great but I was glad to have a GPS. It was about 31 km and about 1100 m elevation, which I think puts it in the vicinity of St. Jean to Roncesvalles.
I think your choice of route and stopping point depend on your preferred walking distance and whether you want to take the time to visit the Medulas, which is a world heritage site. Sobradelo is about 18 km from Las Medulas. And about 25 from Borrenes.
The forum guide explores this in much greater detail, but if it’s still unclear just let us know.
Buen camino, Laurie
Thanks Laurie. I guess my question is: For Stage 1 sleep in Borrenes or sleep in one of the Casa Rurales in Orellan if want to visit Mirador de Orellan on first stage and Las Medulas on the way to Sobradelo for stage 2.
Hi, Cayascal,Thanks Laurie! So, at the risk of being a pain in the grass... On Stage 1, is it not recommended to go to Mirador de Orellan? I thought some folks recommended going there in the afternoon. If you do go, where do you recommend for the first night stop, and when do you recommend Las Medulas? 25-29 km or so, give or take. In other words: to Mirador stop somewhere, continue next day to Las Medulas?
From Borrenes to Calle de Arriba LE 62203 to LA Chana 1.3 km. To LE 62221 to Orellan ~3km on to Mirador. Orellan Las Medulas ~ 4.2 km. From Correos maps. Lots of options, has anyone done this and how?
In other words: to Mirador stop somewhere, continue next day to Las Medulas?
Thanks for the update Laurie... It makes me recall that the reason I so wished to use the kitchen was the purchase of a local trout in Ponte Ulla from a van vendor (with the added purchase of a bottle of wine from a suddenly less frosty hospitalera!)Hi, Filly,
That hospitalera is now gone, as is her little cabin out back where she made meals. Recent comments in Gronze refer to a hospitalero, so that is consistent with what I have heard.
I had really hoped to spend my last night in Pazo dos Galegos on my next Invierno, but I was so sad to read that it is closed for good.
It's a bit of a slog up to Villavieja, and the waymarks seem to take you up there although that is unnecessary unless you plan to stay in the albergue (which was very nice, but bring your own provisions). You'd have to be a serious castle fancier to go up there just for the sake of the castle. So if you are not heading for Villavieja, my advice is stay on the road.Day 1. Ponferrada to Borrenes (23 km)
No need to introduce people to Ponferrada, the starting point. Lots to enjoy there, so maybe a rest day is in the cards before starting!
The first day has a fairly hefty ascent, up to the Castle of Cornatel, then down to Borrenes.
If you want to shorten the first day more, there is also a public albergue in Villavieja, about 16 km from Ponferrada. Villavieja is a charming little village (with no services), a bit below the castle. It is where the serfs and other castle support lived. The albergue had very spotty and sometimes shoddy service, but the license has recently been awarded to a new person and she gets very good reviews.
If you continue on to Borrenes, you will pass the castle and then have an on-the-road (not heavily traveled road) walk down to Borrenes. There used to be an off-road option, but the motocross people ruined it. In Borrenes, Marisol has accommodation for pilgrims. I’m not sure it is a full-blown albergue yet, but there are places to sleep.
The only debate I can remember over this part has to do with whether it’s worth it to visit the Castle of Cornatel. I have visited it once, but did not return on subsequent visits, mainly because of timing. You can climb around a bit, and there are some nice views, but it isn’t a full blown castle renovation liked Zamora or any of the many castles you guys have probably visited on different caminos.
The other point where people have had very different experiences has to do with bars. There is a good availability along the entire route, but opening times are typically later in the morning than you may see on other caminos. So if you leave early, you are going to find fewer options. In my several Inviernos, I have only found one bar open in between Ponferrada and Borrenes, but I leave early.
Hoping that others will now chime in with suggestions, questions, comments!
Buen camino, Laurie
It depends. For me this was one of the most magical stretches of the whole Invierno. The camino goes up a defile, on one side of a steep slope, with the castle looming above closer and closer on the other side. Then it goes through what looks like a very old rock quarry, and levels off a bit before it goes through Villavieja - which is the village closest to the Castillo. The camino then goes directly to the castle on an old road shaded by some of the most beautiful ancient chestnut trees. The resonance of the past was palpable the whole way, both going up to Villavieja, and between there and the castle. I wouldn't miss it for anything.So if you are not heading for Villavieja, my advice is stay on the road.
For me this was one of the most magical stretches of the whole Invierno.
about 300 m ascent in about 5.5 km
I was gobsmacked to see these juxtaposed and didn't quite believe it, because the ascent to Las Medulas felt so much easier.about 250 m over about 7 km
I just looked at gronze’s profile, but we all know that these elevation estimates are notoriously inaccurate. The Villavieja climb is definitely more strenuous than the climb to Las Médulas.I was gobsmacked to see these juxtaposed and didn't quite believe it, because the ascent to Las Medulas felt so much easier.
So I checked Wikiloc, specifically - measuring each climb from its base, not necessarily from the start of the stage.
This is what I got:
Ermita near N-536 - Villavieja (not the entire climb to the castillo but the stiffest part of it):
• 232 m over 3.32 km (6.98% slope)
View attachment 110629
Main climb after Borrenes - LM:
• 241 m over 4.17 km (5.92% slope)
View attachment 110630
Someone please check my arithmatic, because it's not a huge difference on paper. But underfoot? That climb up to Villavieja felt like a beast, whereas the one to LM was a cakewalk.
That squares with experience. But the slopes on the profile are also in close enough agreement with the ones on those Wikiloc maps.The Villavieja climb is definitely more strenuous than the climb to Las Médulas.
It was, indeed.Wow!
I dunno, the slog out of Belesar up by those giant granite cobble things stands out as the toughest climb of the Invierno for me... maybe because it was late in the day too..I was gobsmacked to see these juxtaposed and didn't quite believe it, because the ascent to Las Medulas felt so much easier.
So I checked Wikiloc, specifically - measuring each climb from its base, not necessarily from the start of the stage.
This is what I got:
Ermita near N-536 - Villavieja (not the entire climb to the castillo but the stiffest part of it):
• 232 m over 3.32 km (6.98% slope)
View attachment 110629
Main climb after Borrenes - LM:
• 241 m over 4.17 km (5.92% slope)
View attachment 110630
Someone please check my arithmatic, because it's not a huge difference on paper. But underfoot? That climb up to Villavieja felt like a beast, whereas the one to LM was a cakewalk.
Actually the end goal of the thread was to entertain us during a January when we were still mostly locked down during the pandemic.Apologies if I am misunderstanding the end goal of this thread
That's legit!Actually the end goal of the thread was to entertain us during a January when we were still mostly locked down during the pandemic.
Thanks, I will! Though I'm enjoying working my through this thread and taking notes on my itinerary.I would check out Wise Pilgrim’s app to the Invierno, where I believe most of these changes have been incorporated.
I am planning on walking this route in May along with another person (maybe more). Both of us are keen to keep the stages under 20km. So using a number of sources I have compiled a 15 stage walking plan (attached). Welcome all and any comments.Thanks to @Marbe for the interest in the Invierno.
A few years ago, I posted some shorter stages options for the Invierno. Since that time, facilities have increased and there are more options. So I am starting a day by day Virtual Invierno tour, following the examples of my good buddies’ @AJGuillaume and @VNwalking, who have done this for the Viejo, the Mozárabe, and currently the Lana.
So, here is what I suggest. Let’s talk about it one stage at a time. I will post the stage, give a couple of days for input (both questions and suggestions) and then move on to the next. At the end we should have a pretty good document to complement our Forum Resources guide. John Brierley has an Invierno guide now, which is available in the forum store. I think our forum guide is all you need, but the fact that Brierley has one is a clear indication of which way he thinks the winds are blowing!
The way we have done the Lana planning is a good guide for us, I think. We just completed Part I (Alicante to Cuenca). It had about 450 posts, and I went back and edited out all the banter so that the end product would be more helpful as a planning tool. We wound up with about 250 posts in the Part I document. So, let’s continue with that here, because the side chatter makes it feel more like a real conversation. At the end, I will go back and “clean it up.”
The unknown, of course, is how covid will ultimately impact the infrastructure, but we will just have to use our best judgment.
I will be back in a few minutes to get this started.
Buen camino, Laurie
Off topic but a real pity there's not a place to stay in or near Montefurado. I did that stage pretty easily in one go but the train is always an option here. I agree with Laurie that Soldon is less lovely than other options.A Rúa to Quiroga can be a very long day, especially if you stop to talk to Casimiro outside Montefurado (not to be missed, imho), and also since right before Quiroga there is an ascent to the castle in ruins and then a very winding descent (but one that is very pretty, at least till you get toQuiroga’s suburbs and walk on the road)
I stayed one night in the albergue at Xagoaza. It was indeed a very nice albergue in a very scenic location. The church across from the albergue was, of course, locked. But it offered a comfortable bench with an amazing view of sunset over the valley. The one less than attractive aspect of the albergue was that the floor drains in the shower stalls offered refuge for an amazing variety of crawling creatures, which erupted from the drain next to my feet when the shower was turned on. That was one of my shortest showers on any camino.I very much like the town of Barco de Valdorras and would stay there over Xagoaza, but it looked to me like a very nice albergue when I walked out there one afternoon from Barco just to see it.
@El Cascayal will be happy to see you going to Reina Lupa
a must do if clear skies with gorgeous views of La Catedral and Galicia!WestKirsty gave good instructions on how to go up Pico Sacro on your way to Santiago
Of course, El Cascayal. We won’t include our accommodation thoughts as they are not set in concrete, probably won’t do that until later this year but there is accommodation available at all our planned stops.Anne&Pat, congratulations&Buen Camino! Is it possible for you to share your stages?
some shorter stages options for the Invierno
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?