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Places to pause on the Camino del Norte

J.Patrick

Veteran member from Camarillo, California
Time of past OR future Camino
Porto 2015.
Northern 2017
Francigena Oct 2023
I'm doing some advanced planning on my camino next year. I have sufficient time to rest along the way, taking a day every week or so to stop and smell the roses, or experience the people, place, etc., and to let knees and hips recover. Does anyone who has done the northern have suggestions of places that they could recommend for resting stopovers?
 
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I highly recommend Bilbao. After seven days' walk and all those ups-and-downs, I was ready (ie. I was desperate) for a rest day. Visited the Guggenheim and hung out at cafes. There is a lot to see and experience.
 
Llanes, you can get buses into the Picos and as a place to hangout I would pick it above the bigger cities on the way. Ribadeo it feels like a watershed type place and it is, stay there and visit the surrounding areas before you enter deepest darkest Galicia, on the the section that gives the CDN its name.
 
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Santillana del Mar, if you are interested in cave paintings. Buy your ticket in the big Santander bank in Santander - choose day and time then. This avoids joining a very long first queue at the cave museum.
Ribadeo - take a taxi/FEVE/bus to As Catedrais to see the rock arches, so long as it is low tide as they are only accessible then. Checking tide tables is advisable and the nearest village is Devesa.
 
Ribadeo - take a taxi/FEVE/bus to As Catedrais to see the rock arches, so long as it is low tide as they are only accessible then. Checking tide tables is advisable and the nearest village is Devesa.

I didn't know about the cave museum, I would have enjoyed that.

I did however walk to As Catedrais. The tide was on its way out and I was able to access the beach but couldn't walk around all the rocks. It is an amazing place, well worth a visit. However on my recommendation a friend visited during the summer and found that access to the beach was only allowed with a ticket and the place was crawling with tourists. I'm glad I didn't experience that.

I walked to As Catedrais on the first stage of my ' Ruta do Mar'. I had already walked the Norte from Irun to Ribadeo and then continued along the coast on the Ruta do Mar as far as Ferrol, and then reached Santiago via the Camino Ingles. It was a great adventure that I thoroughly enjoyed. If you are interested you can take a look at my blog
 
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Also planning to hike it at the same time.
 
Yes @Magwood - we walked there as the start of the Camino do Mar too. The tide was not far enough out to access the far beach. This year we were able to visit again and it was a very low tide so we went right through to the main arches. Again it was May so no need for ticket, but still many visitors and safety personnel to ensure that folk did leave before the tide turned.

If anyone wants an overnight stay nearby we can recommend O Lar de Carmina at Devesa, just a short walk back from the car park at As Catedrais. Under the railway and left at the roundabout (back towards Ribadeo) - the roadhouse B&B is just along that road on the right hand side.
 

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If not planning a rest/stop day there, I'd recommend at least planning a short walk before or after Comillas (or both) so you can really enjoy seeing all the sites in this pretty resort town full of Moderniste.
edit: and if you are not turning to the Primitivo, I'd still recommend a short detour to Oviedo...one day there isn't enough either
 
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I didn't know about the cave museum, I would have enjoyed that.

I did however walk to As Catedrais. The tide was on its way out and I was able to access the beach but couldn't walk around all the rocks. It is an amazing place, well worth a visit. However on my recommendation a friend visited during the summer and found that access to the beach was only allowed with a ticket and the place was crawling with tourists. I'm glad I didn't experience that.

I walked to As Catedrais on the first stage of my ' Ruta do Mar'. I had already walked the Norte from Irun to Ribadeo and then continued along the coast on the Ruta do Mar as far as Ferrol, and then reached Santiago via the Camino Ingles. It was a great adventure that I thoroughly enjoyed. If you are interested you can take a look at my blog

My current plan is to to go down the Primitivo, so I think that I'll miss Ribadeo. If I changed my mind, I would be in Ribadeo somewhere in mid-September. Do you think there will still be crowds at the beaches then?
 
I had a little trouble finding the right road to get to El Capricho, but it's self guided and when i went (early) it was not crowded at all...so many other places there, also, can't throw a rock without hitting something you shouldn't be throwing rocks at:eek:
 
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I had a little trouble finding the right road to get to El Capricho, but it's self guided and when i went (early) it was not crowded at all...so many other places there, also, can't throw a rock without hitting something you shouldn't be throwing rocks at:eek:

I had no idea! I just Googled it and it's a wonder. I've got the address in my planner. It's a definite must.
 
My current plan is to to go down the Primitivo, so I think that I'll miss Ribadeo. If I changed my mind, I would be in Ribadeo somewhere in mid-September. Do you think there will still be crowds at the beaches then?

I would think not as the spanish kids should be back in school by then. There were no safety guys in evidence when I was there but maybe they are only out and about when the tide is on the turn.
 
I'm doing some advanced planning on my camino next year. I have sufficient time to rest along the way, taking a day every week or so to stop and smell the roses, or experience the people, place, etc., and to let knees and hips recover. Does anyone who has done the northern have suggestions of places that they could recommend for resting stopovers?


From Bilbao the train to Mundaca. Stayed there for 3 days. Beaches are great. The hold surfing competitions there but it very low key no tourists at all. There are a couple of hotels and a hostel there
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
I recommend a break day at Embalse de Salime. It has a gorgeous lake and has one hotel/bar (http://www.hotellasgrandas.es/es/index.php) with a stunning view of the lake/dam. In fact your walk that day will circle around this lake/river and if you like remote/quite place to relax, this is unique on the Primitivo.
 

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We walked through Geteria and will probably like to have a day there also loved Bilbao, Llanes, Castro Urdiales, Playa de Beria, Salas, Santander, Donostia...and more so going back in 2018
 

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