The story so far.....
Travels with Dalie the Donkey
by Barbara on Tue May 27, 2008 9:29 am
I walked the Camino del Norte and Primitivo with a donkey and a tent. I always asked permission except for one or two occaisions when there was literally no-one to ask. Most times I was allowed to camp in a large garden or field, the only problem was near Lugo when NO-ONE would let me camp for the night, and I asked at a lot of places. I ended up in the refuge with the donkey in stables miles away. I was once refused by a campsite, but that was because of the donkey.....and once by the Monks of Val de Dios for the same reason. And they have plenty of room.....7 km to the next refuge, all uphill. Most of the refuges I was on my own with my donkey on whatever patch of grass. People were actually very good about offering a stable when the weather was bad. I met with nearly unfailing kindness, the gardia were most helpful, and so were the local civilians. With one or two honorable exceptions (Cobreces and Bolibar spring to mind) the religious establishments could possibly have been less helpful if they had beaten me with a large stick
Minus donkey it would be no problem camping, apart from carrying the tent. On the Le Puy route there is always some accomodation available in the spring, and not many walkers. I was in the Aubrac in march, and the weather was indeed cold, with quite a lot of snow on the ground.
I actually prefer camping, being somewhat antisocial when tired, and a light sleeper, so do not cope well with large dormitories, and as I can only afford a hotel on rare occaisions, enjoy the privacy the tent gives me. Don't get me wrong, I like meeting other pilgrims, just not ALL the time. I don't really like the Camino Frances because of the crowds.
Remember also when thinking of camping, that even the lightest possible tent is fairly bulky and light waterproof tents are not cheap to buy. You will need a good sleeping mat and a thicker sleeping bag than if you are always under a roof. The weight does all add up.
Barbara
by alipilgrim on Tue May 27, 2008 3:45 pm
What did you do with the donkey once you reached Santiago??
by Barbara on Tue May 27, 2008 5:53 pm
Well, she came back home with me of course. She lives in our pasture with her friend, another donkey. Actually, in this weather (rain, rain, and more rain) they seem to be living in their stable all the time.
Oh, do you mean how did I get her back? In her deluxe horse trailer, towed by my ratty camping car.
There is a tale to tell there of breaking down on the motorway outside Ponferrada, and the donkey garage arrangements......
Barbara
by JohnnieWalker on Tue May 27, 2008 6:54 pm
BarbaraTell us a Camino with donkey story! Pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
by Barbara on Wed May 28, 2008 7:33 am
Well, since you ask so nicely....
Here is the tale of Bilbao and the transporter bridge......
Having spent the night at a very nice but very expensive agrotourismo just before Bilbao, I really didn't want to retrace my steps to pick up the waymarking, so plodded on hoping to pick up the camino further on.
Big mistake.
So found myself about noon in a little public garden trying to find a way across the river that didn't involve a busy dual carriageway, and not doing very well. Small crowd of helpful and voluble spaniards, one of whom has the bright idea of trying to get me a police escort, one donkey enjoying the grass and occaisional flower in the garden, one person insisting I return ten or so K via said agrotourismo, you get the picture.
Someone pulls out mobile phone, and a police car arrives lights and siren.....
Small crowd becomes larger, and policeman summons his sister who teaches at local school to interpret.
After a while and many phone calls one of the crowd is assigned to look after Dalie the donkey, who is by now munching through a large bag of bread and cakes contrubuted by one of the crowd, and I am whisked off in the police car to survey the proposed route. Now Bilbao has a sort of suspension bridge with a travelling cabin, sort of a horizontal ski lift, so as to let tall ships by. Apparently we can cross in that, it takes cars and pedestrians, but I have to be shown the way to it, given my apparent proclivity for getting lost, and assess it's suitability for donkey carriage.
So, the route being Ok, and this thing will take six cars so five cars and a donkey should be OK, I am returned to the gardens, with now considerably shorter grass and fewer flowers......complete with hand drawn map, policeman's home address and phone number, firm instructions to spend the night with them in four days time when I pass his house, and a large bag of sweets from his sister.
So we walk through the docks and get to this very impressive bridge, and wait in line with the cars. Dalie is unimpressed, and anyway still eating her way through her goodie bag. We duly get on the bridge, and fly above the river as if this happens every day. We are charged the rate for two pedestrians by a young man acting as a bridge conductor, and stroll off the other side.
All in a day's pilgrimage. Don't know how the newspapers missed this one, we seemed to make the front page for less than that at times.
More walking, followed by a night in the tent on the beach. Later I did stop at the policeman's home, and was taken over my route for the next two days by car, and nearly a very small boat. I didn't think Dalie would go for that one, though!
•
Barbara
by sillydoll on Wed May 28, 2008 8:00 am
Barbara - I would swap my Tim Moore book for yours any day!
by JohnnieWalker on Wed May 28, 2008 8:11 am
Estupendo! Thanks Barbara - Encore
by Barbara on Wed May 28, 2008 7:02 pm
So, you want I should tell you about Dalie's search for a boyfriend?
by sillydoll on Wed May 28, 2008 7:19 pm
Si, si senora!!•
by Barbara on Wed May 28, 2008 7:58 pm
OK now you have to know that I was walking with a soon to be ex friend who decided she would like to join me walking from Le Puy en Velay to celebrate her retirement from nursing. For a nurse, she did seem a little well..... uncomfortable with bodily functions. Dalie reckoned that she had no right to tell her what to do, so mostly I led Dalie, and the friend did really useful things like find a shop where we could buy postcards.
Anyway, in the spring a middle aged donkey's fancies turn to thoughts of love, or at any rate, sex. Once a month for five days at a time. Rather like PMT in some ways, only rather more so
When she is in a certain condition (as my mother used to say) the only thing on her mind other than food is finding a mate. Not fussy about the species, never mind the race, four legs is good enough! An admirable lack of racism, but can be inconvenient, and requires rather more tethering than usual at the end of the day.
So there we are leaving the Aubrac, lovely sunny day, just had a night in a comfy hotel, Dalie in the now ex garden for the night. Refreshed and invigorated, we amble along the high street of a small, clean, and correct French town. I think it was a household electrical goods shop that had the clean and reflective plate glass window. Dalie sees a really good looking donkey gazing at her from the good clear reflection and stops dead (no skidding to a halt, top speed is about 6 kph and only with a stable full of hay in sight).
EEEEEEEH AWWWWWW at top volume. I think it translated as "Cor, I really fancy you, want to come round the back?3
Repeat EEEEEEEEH AAAAAAWWWWWWW when the paramour dissapoints by not leaping at her in joy.........
Ok, voicemail has failed, so we will be more direct. In the high street now full of shoppers looking at their morning entertainment, Dalie gives out with about a gallon of highly pheremone enhanced urine.
Retreat of pilgrims, dragging donkey......
Barbara
by JohnnieWalker on Wed May 28, 2008 10:37 pm
and the bodily functions allergic friend! But....did the donkey ever get a paramour?....we await the next chapter
by Barbara on Thu May 29, 2008 12:25 pm
I'll let you know in a day or two. Watch this space
Barbara
by Barbara on Thu May 29, 2008 9:37 pm
I am reminded by Dalie today that when she is looking for a boyfriend the signs are there to be seen, and if I do not notice then it is my fault.....
Donkeys when amorous get stroppy, bit like two legged people I suppose, and work their mouths as if they have a toffee stuck between their teeth. Mind you, in Dalie's case it could well be a toffee, or anything else she has managed to glom off some unsuspecting child. reminds me of the time she ate twenty-five school dinners....
However, on this day we had strolled along a very nice promenade by the sea, and were now climbing a hill towards the refuge at the top. Now it seems that I had missed a marker somewhere so we were approaching rather obliquely on a minor road instead of the usual camino del Norte brambles, and this road took us past a number of farms, all with some sort of livestock watching with interest. Cows in particular like to watch anything that is happening outside, I suppose if your day's excitement is a couple of trips to the milking parlour it's only to be expected. Dalie enjoys a chat with anyone she sees in passing, and often exchanges a bray for a moo or a bark. About three kilometres from the refuge Dalie stops, calls loudly, urinates copiously, and gazes into an apparently empty field. At times like this I usually pretend I am waiting for her owner, nothing to do with me, honest......
A very small donkey canters across the field, greets my madam, and makes a spirited attempt at getting through the luckily sturdy and well fastened gate. I drag Dalie away and we continue, Dalie sulking as only a donkey can, and we arrive at our refuge. Nice place to park her behind the church, where the grass could do with a cut. Bearing in mind her tiny boyfriend of some way back, she gets electric fence with the power on, and tied up on a nice long rope. Apart from a long distance exchange of donkey calls in the night (rather like teenagers on the telephone) which can't have woken many more people than the church bells, all goes well until morning.
I give her a breakfast of left over bread and turn off the fence, untie the long rope and am about to harness her, short lead rope in hand, when her putative lover calls. It was like the starting gate at Sandown. Off she goes down the hill, hooves twinkling cheerfully on the road (this from a donkey who insists "tarmac is far too slippery, dear, can't go any faster, really I can't", under all normal circumstances) Abandoning pack saddle and bags I follow. Every time I get round a corner and see her she trots off again, just slow enough that I can keep up. After all, I am the one who finds her the stale bread, so it wouldn't do to lose me completely. Back at the same gate she is nose to nose with little donkey, who couldn't have done what he obviously longed for without a stepladder anyway. I am allowed to catch her, and despite my inability to understand that I am required to open the gate, she accepts the piece of bread still miraculously in my pocket as a poor second best. We return to the refuge and I tie her up very very well before gathering up my scattered belongings.
Barbara
by JohnnieWalker on Fri May 30, 2008 12:00 am
Almost an allegory for life...but seriously ... does Dalie keep a journal? And in it is there a description of the worst other pilgrims/camino experience and the very best?
Should we start a Dalie Diary?
Next episode....can't wait....
by Barbara on Fri May 30, 2008 7:04 am
Alas, Dalie cannot write. I send emails on her behalf and she can use the donkeyphone over about 3 km, also an ordinary phone if I hold it for her. Do you think we should move this thread, as it seems to have not a lot to do with camping any more?
Ivar?
Because best/worst experiences could be fascinating.......
Next episode will tell the tale of the campsite by the sea, and Dalie on TV.
Barbara
•
by Deirdre on Fri May 30, 2008 10:51 am
I love it! This has become very entertaining reading! Donkeys are such entertaining creatures anyway... for unassuming little animals, they certainly have their own unique way of doing things!
Buen Camino,
Deirdrè
Deirdre
Travels with Dalie the Donkey
by Barbara on Tue May 27, 2008 9:29 am
I walked the Camino del Norte and Primitivo with a donkey and a tent. I always asked permission except for one or two occaisions when there was literally no-one to ask. Most times I was allowed to camp in a large garden or field, the only problem was near Lugo when NO-ONE would let me camp for the night, and I asked at a lot of places. I ended up in the refuge with the donkey in stables miles away. I was once refused by a campsite, but that was because of the donkey.....and once by the Monks of Val de Dios for the same reason. And they have plenty of room.....7 km to the next refuge, all uphill. Most of the refuges I was on my own with my donkey on whatever patch of grass. People were actually very good about offering a stable when the weather was bad. I met with nearly unfailing kindness, the gardia were most helpful, and so were the local civilians. With one or two honorable exceptions (Cobreces and Bolibar spring to mind) the religious establishments could possibly have been less helpful if they had beaten me with a large stick
Minus donkey it would be no problem camping, apart from carrying the tent. On the Le Puy route there is always some accomodation available in the spring, and not many walkers. I was in the Aubrac in march, and the weather was indeed cold, with quite a lot of snow on the ground.
I actually prefer camping, being somewhat antisocial when tired, and a light sleeper, so do not cope well with large dormitories, and as I can only afford a hotel on rare occaisions, enjoy the privacy the tent gives me. Don't get me wrong, I like meeting other pilgrims, just not ALL the time. I don't really like the Camino Frances because of the crowds.
Remember also when thinking of camping, that even the lightest possible tent is fairly bulky and light waterproof tents are not cheap to buy. You will need a good sleeping mat and a thicker sleeping bag than if you are always under a roof. The weight does all add up.
Barbara
by alipilgrim on Tue May 27, 2008 3:45 pm
What did you do with the donkey once you reached Santiago??
by Barbara on Tue May 27, 2008 5:53 pm
Well, she came back home with me of course. She lives in our pasture with her friend, another donkey. Actually, in this weather (rain, rain, and more rain) they seem to be living in their stable all the time.
Oh, do you mean how did I get her back? In her deluxe horse trailer, towed by my ratty camping car.
There is a tale to tell there of breaking down on the motorway outside Ponferrada, and the donkey garage arrangements......
Barbara
by JohnnieWalker on Tue May 27, 2008 6:54 pm
BarbaraTell us a Camino with donkey story! Pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
by Barbara on Wed May 28, 2008 7:33 am
Well, since you ask so nicely....
Here is the tale of Bilbao and the transporter bridge......
Having spent the night at a very nice but very expensive agrotourismo just before Bilbao, I really didn't want to retrace my steps to pick up the waymarking, so plodded on hoping to pick up the camino further on.
Big mistake.
So found myself about noon in a little public garden trying to find a way across the river that didn't involve a busy dual carriageway, and not doing very well. Small crowd of helpful and voluble spaniards, one of whom has the bright idea of trying to get me a police escort, one donkey enjoying the grass and occaisional flower in the garden, one person insisting I return ten or so K via said agrotourismo, you get the picture.
Someone pulls out mobile phone, and a police car arrives lights and siren.....
Small crowd becomes larger, and policeman summons his sister who teaches at local school to interpret.
After a while and many phone calls one of the crowd is assigned to look after Dalie the donkey, who is by now munching through a large bag of bread and cakes contrubuted by one of the crowd, and I am whisked off in the police car to survey the proposed route. Now Bilbao has a sort of suspension bridge with a travelling cabin, sort of a horizontal ski lift, so as to let tall ships by. Apparently we can cross in that, it takes cars and pedestrians, but I have to be shown the way to it, given my apparent proclivity for getting lost, and assess it's suitability for donkey carriage.
So, the route being Ok, and this thing will take six cars so five cars and a donkey should be OK, I am returned to the gardens, with now considerably shorter grass and fewer flowers......complete with hand drawn map, policeman's home address and phone number, firm instructions to spend the night with them in four days time when I pass his house, and a large bag of sweets from his sister.
So we walk through the docks and get to this very impressive bridge, and wait in line with the cars. Dalie is unimpressed, and anyway still eating her way through her goodie bag. We duly get on the bridge, and fly above the river as if this happens every day. We are charged the rate for two pedestrians by a young man acting as a bridge conductor, and stroll off the other side.
All in a day's pilgrimage. Don't know how the newspapers missed this one, we seemed to make the front page for less than that at times.
More walking, followed by a night in the tent on the beach. Later I did stop at the policeman's home, and was taken over my route for the next two days by car, and nearly a very small boat. I didn't think Dalie would go for that one, though!
•
Barbara
by sillydoll on Wed May 28, 2008 8:00 am
Barbara - I would swap my Tim Moore book for yours any day!
by JohnnieWalker on Wed May 28, 2008 8:11 am
Estupendo! Thanks Barbara - Encore
by Barbara on Wed May 28, 2008 7:02 pm
So, you want I should tell you about Dalie's search for a boyfriend?
by sillydoll on Wed May 28, 2008 7:19 pm
Si, si senora!!•
by Barbara on Wed May 28, 2008 7:58 pm
OK now you have to know that I was walking with a soon to be ex friend who decided she would like to join me walking from Le Puy en Velay to celebrate her retirement from nursing. For a nurse, she did seem a little well..... uncomfortable with bodily functions. Dalie reckoned that she had no right to tell her what to do, so mostly I led Dalie, and the friend did really useful things like find a shop where we could buy postcards.
Anyway, in the spring a middle aged donkey's fancies turn to thoughts of love, or at any rate, sex. Once a month for five days at a time. Rather like PMT in some ways, only rather more so
When she is in a certain condition (as my mother used to say) the only thing on her mind other than food is finding a mate. Not fussy about the species, never mind the race, four legs is good enough! An admirable lack of racism, but can be inconvenient, and requires rather more tethering than usual at the end of the day.
So there we are leaving the Aubrac, lovely sunny day, just had a night in a comfy hotel, Dalie in the now ex garden for the night. Refreshed and invigorated, we amble along the high street of a small, clean, and correct French town. I think it was a household electrical goods shop that had the clean and reflective plate glass window. Dalie sees a really good looking donkey gazing at her from the good clear reflection and stops dead (no skidding to a halt, top speed is about 6 kph and only with a stable full of hay in sight).
EEEEEEEH AWWWWWW at top volume. I think it translated as "Cor, I really fancy you, want to come round the back?3
Repeat EEEEEEEEH AAAAAAWWWWWWW when the paramour dissapoints by not leaping at her in joy.........
Ok, voicemail has failed, so we will be more direct. In the high street now full of shoppers looking at their morning entertainment, Dalie gives out with about a gallon of highly pheremone enhanced urine.
Retreat of pilgrims, dragging donkey......
Barbara
by JohnnieWalker on Wed May 28, 2008 10:37 pm
and the bodily functions allergic friend! But....did the donkey ever get a paramour?....we await the next chapter
by Barbara on Thu May 29, 2008 12:25 pm
JohnnieWalker said:
I'll let you know in a day or two. Watch this space
Barbara
by Barbara on Thu May 29, 2008 9:37 pm
I am reminded by Dalie today that when she is looking for a boyfriend the signs are there to be seen, and if I do not notice then it is my fault.....
Donkeys when amorous get stroppy, bit like two legged people I suppose, and work their mouths as if they have a toffee stuck between their teeth. Mind you, in Dalie's case it could well be a toffee, or anything else she has managed to glom off some unsuspecting child. reminds me of the time she ate twenty-five school dinners....
However, on this day we had strolled along a very nice promenade by the sea, and were now climbing a hill towards the refuge at the top. Now it seems that I had missed a marker somewhere so we were approaching rather obliquely on a minor road instead of the usual camino del Norte brambles, and this road took us past a number of farms, all with some sort of livestock watching with interest. Cows in particular like to watch anything that is happening outside, I suppose if your day's excitement is a couple of trips to the milking parlour it's only to be expected. Dalie enjoys a chat with anyone she sees in passing, and often exchanges a bray for a moo or a bark. About three kilometres from the refuge Dalie stops, calls loudly, urinates copiously, and gazes into an apparently empty field. At times like this I usually pretend I am waiting for her owner, nothing to do with me, honest......
A very small donkey canters across the field, greets my madam, and makes a spirited attempt at getting through the luckily sturdy and well fastened gate. I drag Dalie away and we continue, Dalie sulking as only a donkey can, and we arrive at our refuge. Nice place to park her behind the church, where the grass could do with a cut. Bearing in mind her tiny boyfriend of some way back, she gets electric fence with the power on, and tied up on a nice long rope. Apart from a long distance exchange of donkey calls in the night (rather like teenagers on the telephone) which can't have woken many more people than the church bells, all goes well until morning.
I give her a breakfast of left over bread and turn off the fence, untie the long rope and am about to harness her, short lead rope in hand, when her putative lover calls. It was like the starting gate at Sandown. Off she goes down the hill, hooves twinkling cheerfully on the road (this from a donkey who insists "tarmac is far too slippery, dear, can't go any faster, really I can't", under all normal circumstances) Abandoning pack saddle and bags I follow. Every time I get round a corner and see her she trots off again, just slow enough that I can keep up. After all, I am the one who finds her the stale bread, so it wouldn't do to lose me completely. Back at the same gate she is nose to nose with little donkey, who couldn't have done what he obviously longed for without a stepladder anyway. I am allowed to catch her, and despite my inability to understand that I am required to open the gate, she accepts the piece of bread still miraculously in my pocket as a poor second best. We return to the refuge and I tie her up very very well before gathering up my scattered belongings.
Barbara
by JohnnieWalker on Fri May 30, 2008 12:00 am
Almost an allegory for life...but seriously ... does Dalie keep a journal? And in it is there a description of the worst other pilgrims/camino experience and the very best?
Should we start a Dalie Diary?
Next episode....can't wait....
by Barbara on Fri May 30, 2008 7:04 am
JohnnieWalker said:
Alas, Dalie cannot write. I send emails on her behalf and she can use the donkeyphone over about 3 km, also an ordinary phone if I hold it for her. Do you think we should move this thread, as it seems to have not a lot to do with camping any more?
Ivar?
Because best/worst experiences could be fascinating.......
Next episode will tell the tale of the campsite by the sea, and Dalie on TV.
Barbara
•
by Deirdre on Fri May 30, 2008 10:51 am
I love it! This has become very entertaining reading! Donkeys are such entertaining creatures anyway... for unassuming little animals, they certainly have their own unique way of doing things!
Buen Camino,
Deirdrè
Deirdre
I can't wait for another Donkey on the Camino story! 
