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LIVE from the Camino PierreB on the Vasco!

PierreB in

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (2018)
Hi Pierre -- I have only made two advance bookings. We love to stay at parochial and municipal albergues. We love the community, cooking together and supporting the local municipalities' and churches' efforts to provide support for pilgrims. With that said, and probably with more info than you wanted -- here is what I am thinking:

1. Astigarraga. There is no albergue here. We will aim for Pension Astigarraga -- others we know have stayed here and had good experiences. If we are struggling with the ups and downs on the first day, and if its not full with school kids, we could stop 3 km earlier at the Albergue Juvenil at Sangiomendi. There is a kitchen at the albergue but no bars or restaurants nearby so that is a limitation. We will be there on a Saturday also so the school kids scenario is a real thing :)

2. Tolosa. Again no albergue here. We will aim for Pension Karmentxu or Pension Ovarbide.

3. Beasain. There is a municipal albergue here run by the local Guipuzcoa Pilgrim's organization. We plan to stay at it. A friend had a wonderful experience when she stayed here.

4. Zegama. Pension Ostatu Zegama has been highly recommended. I booked through booking.com. Their restaurant has also been highly recommended so I messaged them to see if we could also reserve supper. Unfortunately, their restaurant is not open on weekdays, but they offered to prepare us sandwiches or a dinner plate!

5. Zalduondo. There is a donativo municipal albergue here where we will stay. It has a kitchen. The local bar does not serve meals, so we will plan to come with supplies to cook supper. There are actually no intermediate services on this stage, so we will need to carry snacks and dinner supplies from Zegama.

6. Alegria. Again there is an albergue here where we will stay. It is operated by the Tullonium Cultural Assoc. and there are good reports from friends who have stayed here.

7. Vitoria. We plan to stay at the cathedral albergue unless it is full (its also an albergue juvenil. We will be here during the middle of the week so I hope its available. It also reportedly opens late. I haven't scoped out alternatives, but there are many.

8. Puebla de Argonzon. We will stay at the municipal albergue here.

9. Salinillas. We plan to stay at the private albergue here which has been recommended by several others in the forum.

10. Zarraton. Here we have booked at Hospideria Palacio de Casafuerte. Its a small three star hotel. I booked through booking.com for 109 euro for a double. The hotel has five rooms and the rate includes breakfast. I just messaged them about supper, but there is also a restaurant in town according to Gronz. On Booking they offered free cancellation until 5 days before our stay.

11. Granon. After the Vasco we are waling the Frances to Ponferrada. We want to stay at different places than we have previously stayed. Walking past Santo Domingo de la Calzada gets us on a different timing than our previous CF. We also decided not to walk to Burgos because my husband very much wants to stop and do a tour of the archeological site at Atapuerca. The Burgos route has been highly recommended to us so it was a hard decision!


Anyway -- this is probably way more than you want to know, but... Please post details of your experience as we would love more info about what's open, etc. on the Vasco!

LizB
Hi LizB. Here we are. Bus from Burgos to Irún on Easter Sunday, April 17. Walking distance to the Irún Pilgrims Hostel. They open at 4pm so we decided to walk to the sea, just across from France before checking in. Nice hospitaleros, good clean accomodation & good breakfast. They provided us with a list of albergues on the Vasco but it's dated back to 2019. Still usefull to have. We were the only two pilgrims not heading out to the Norte in the morning.
 
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Hi LizB. Here we are. Bus from Burgos to Irún on Easter Sunday, April 17. Walking distance to the Irún Pilgrims Hostel. They open at 4pm so we decided to walk to the sea, just across from France before checking in. Nice hospitaleros, good clean accomodation & good breakfast. They provided us with a list of albergues on the Vasco but it's dated back to 2019. Still useful to have. We were the only two pilgrims not heading out to the Norte in the morning.
Monday, April 18. Irún to Santiagomendi. First day elevation changes made us decide to stop at the Santiagomendi Juvenil albergue after 20 kms. You must call ahead 610.849.345 for the hospitalero to meet you there. She came to unlock the door, showed us the kitchen, dorm, etc, collected our 10 euros each for the night and told us to lock up on our way out in the morning. Bring food for your evening meal and breakfast.
 
Monday, April 18. Irún to Santiagomendi. First day elevation changes made us decide to stop at the Santiagomendi Juvenil albergue after 20 kms. You must call ahead 610.849.345 for the hospitalero to meet you there. She came to unlock the door, showed us the kitchen, dorm, etc, collected our 10 euros each for the night and told us to lock up on our way out in the morning. Bring food for your evening meal and breakfast.
Tuesday, April 19. Santiagomendi to Tolosa (28 kms). We finally dragged ourselves to Pensión Karmentxu in Tolosa at 4pm, pretty cold and wet. Apparently the local albergue is closed and we didn't have the energy to check it out. Pension Karmentxu was 50 euros for a double room with shared bathroom and no heat, OK but not great.
 
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Tuesday, April 19. Santiagomendi to Tolosa (28 kms). We finally dragged ourselves to Pensión Karmentxu in Tolosa at 4pm, pretty cold and wet. Apparently the local albergue is closed and we didn't have the energy to check it out. Pension Karmentxu was 50 euros for a double room with shared bathroom and no heat, OK but not great.
Wednesday, April 20th. Tolosa to Beasain. We arrived at the municipal Albergue in Beasain, almost dry but uncertain about whether or not it was open. Our information said it was temporarly closed and we had no way of checking ahead. There are a few small Pensións nearby so we had a plan B. Turns out the Albergue had reopened. Luis and Lola, a couple of volunteer hospitaleros, provided a much appreciated warm welcome.
 
Wednesday, April 20th. Tolosa to Beasain. We arrived at the municipal Albergue in Beasain, almost dry but uncertain about whether or not it was open. Our information said it was temporarly closed and we had no way of checking ahead. There are a few small Pensións nearby so we had a plan B. Turns out the Albergue had reopened. Luis and Lola, a couple of volunteer hospitaleros, provided a much appreciated warm welcome.
Thursday April 21st. Beasain to Zegama. A very short 12 kms as measured by Strava. You really don't have to leave so early but you must have a reservation. The Ostatu Zegama is a very nice pension! 55 euros double accommodation with private bathroom and heat. They do offer a very good menu del dia in the afternoon. There are no albergues in Zegama. If you're on a tight budget, you can bus back to the Beasain municipal albergue at 7pm and return to Zegama by bus the next morning to resume your walk.
 
@PierreB in thank you for all these wonderful updates! Its good to know that Sangiomendi is actually open as @WestKirsty thought it might not be! Also the info on other logings is helfpul!

We actually have booked a room in Astigarraga at Pension Txingurri. This will mean we don't need to worry about where we are sleeping and can just take our time and go slow!

Buen Camino -- I'm looking forward to further updates!
 
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Friday April 22 - Zegama-Agurain (21 kms). Clear blue sky but chilling 6c as we woke up at 7am morning. We decided to leave at 9am to gain a few degrees, especially that we are climbing almost 1,000 mets today and it's going to be colder up there. We also wanted time for a good breakfast and COFFEE because we were going to walk 14 kms without encountering any village!

It turned out to be an Amazing Day. From the village of Zegama, great view of the
Aizkorri mountain range that we crossed later through the San Adrian tunnel that dates back to the bronze age (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Adrian_(tunnel)). We even walked on an old stone road that was built by the Romans!

The Albergue in Agurain is still closed. We went to the Restaurante/Pensión Jose Mari Jatetxea . Nice owner, clean room (€40 double sin baño) and a dinner menu (a bit expensive at €14). Tomorrow, we hope to make it to Vitoria... 28kms on the Castilian plateau without too much elevation change.
 
Saturday April 23 - Salvatierra/Agurain to Vitoria (29 kms). Brutal wind all day and chilling... Never got above 9c. Nice string of villages but no coffee/tortilla. We ended up doing a small detour into Alegria/Dulantzi to eat lunch. Also the Buen Camino track gets you to walk on A-132 just after Argandoña but the official yellow arrows take you on a dirt road to the right, which is much safer and quieter. I have forwarded this info to Buen Camino. Staying at the Cathedral Albergue in Vitoria tonight, very nice, €12 per bed with linen, blankets and HEAT. Small dorms - just the two of us in a three-bed dorm with our own bathroom.
 
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Saturday April 23 - Salvatierra/Agurain to Vitoria (29 kms). Brutal wind all day and chilling... Never got above 9c. Nice string of villages but no coffee/tortilla. We ended up doing a small detour into Alegria/Dulantzi to eat lunch. Also the Buen Camino track gets you to walk on A-132 just after Argandoña but the official yellow arrows take you on a dirt road to the right, which is much safer and quieter. I have forwarded this info to Buen Camino. Staying at the Cathedral Albergue in Vitoria tonight, very nice, €12 per bed with linen, blankets and HEAT. Small dorms - just the two of us in a three-bed dorm with our own bathroom.
Hi Pierre
Thanks for the updates and interested where you stopped/& slept overnight.
I am wondering if you have been fortunate enough to just walk up or have you booked/called ahead ?
Buen camino.
Annie.
 
Thursday April 21st. Beasain to Zegama. A very short 12 kms as measured by Strava. You really don't have to leave so early but you must have a reservation. The Ostatu Zegama is a very nice pension! 55 euros double accommodation with private bathroom and heat. They do offer a very good menu del dia in the afternoon. There are no albergues in Zegama. If you're on a tight budget, you can bus back to the Beasain municipal albergue at 7pm and return to Zegama by bus the next morning to resume your walk.

Hi Pierre
Thanks for the updates and interested where you stopped/& slept overnight.
I am wondering if you have been fortunate enough to just walk up or have you booked/called ahead ?
Buen camino.
Annie.
Hi Annie, we only booked in Zegama but we did call a few times to make sure the Albergues were open, especially in small villages with limited options.
Pierre
 
24/04/22
Vitoria to La Puebla de Arganzón (20 kms). Get your coffee fix before leaving Vitoria as there are no bars or restaurants until you arrive! A couple of local people strongly recommended the alternate track to the right (already in Buen Camino) starting after Centro Penitenciario de Alaba/Arava. They said the descent is a lot easier and safer. From the official path, you will only see an arrow going straight but, if you take the unmarked path to the right, you will see an arrow about 20 meters further. Then, from that point forward, the alternate trail is very well marked. I confirm that La Puebla de Arganzón Pilgrims Hostel is still CLOSED. Hotel Arganzón Plaza double con baño €58, heat, wifi, linen and towels.
 
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24/04/22
Vitoria to La Puebla de Arganzón (20 kms). Get your coffee fix before leaving Vitoria as there are no bars or restaurants until you arrive! A couple of local people strongly recommended the alternate track to the right (already in Buen Camino) starting after Centro Penitenciario de Alaba/Arava. They said the descent is a lot easier and safer. From the official path, you will only see an arrow going straight but, if you take the unmarked path to the right, you will see an arrow about 20 meters further. Then, from that point forward, the alternate trail is very well marked. I confirm that La Puebla de Arganzón Pilgrims Hostel is still CLOSED. Hotel Arganzón Plaza double con baño €58, heat, wifi, linen and towels.


I took the more dangerous track and it was one of the hardest going downs on any Camino. Glad I made it safely.
 
I took the more dangerous track and it was one of the hardest going downs on any Camino. Glad I made it safely.
And I took the new way, which caused me to go back and forth a couple of times at the intersection, making sure I was going the right way. It was easy...and very worth it. You go along the ridge to the right of the junction, then down on a track under the powerlines, so it's much better underfoot, if not so scenic.

Edit: here is an OSMand map for people like @ebrandt who are following in your footsteps. The old "official" camino (what Sabine did) is the light blue line, what Pierre and I did is the purple one. The junction is at the top of the hill and is unmissable. A bit past the junction on the old official route (going straight), there was a yellow X, but nothing that I could see on the other way until the powerline. But it was easy to follow the map.
20220424_181916.jpg
 
Last edited:
And I took the new way, which caused me to go back and forth a couple of times at the intersection, making sure I was going the right way. It was easy...and very worth it. You go along the ridge to the right of the junction, then down on a track under the powerlines, so it's much better underfoot, if not so scenic.

Edit: here is an OSMand map for people like @ebrandt who are following in your footsteps. The old "official" camino is the light blue line, what I did is the purple one. The junction is at the top of the hill and is unmissable. A bit past the junction on the old official route (going straight), there was a yellow X, but nothing that I could see on the other way until the powerline. But it was easy to follow the map.
View attachment 123498
Yes, that's exactly it. Thanks VNwalking.
 
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Tomorrow is a really special day of walking...just you wait. 😍 The specialness sneaks up on you.

And have you found any good places to eat in Miranda de Ebro that are replacements for the Tartan Bistro?
Buen camino!!!
 
Tomorrow is a really special day of walking...just you wait. 😍 The specialness sneaks up on you.

And have you found any good places to eat in Miranda de Ebro that are replacements for the Tartan Bistro?
Buen camino!!!
We had a great menu del dia at La Tarrara, lots of vegetables and a very friendly owner. The Oasis recommended by our hospitalero is still closed due to Covid.

Turns out Padre Carlos from the EMAUS parroquial albergue in Burgos where we volunteer was born in Miranda. He was delighted to learn that we stopped here!

Thank you VNwalking, looking forward to tomorrow even more ☺️.
 
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27-04-2022 - Miranda de Ebro - Pancorbo (18 kms). Woke up at 7am. Quickly got packed and ready to go. Locked the Albergue door and gate behind us, and placed the keys in the dropbox. Bar Oxono about 100 meters away opens at 6am, and serves good coffee and tortilla.

Beautiful trail across wide-open fields. We slowly got closer to the Obaneres mountain range, with some very impressive sights. Then, our big WOW for the day (you were right VNwalking) we walked through the Pancorbo mountain pass leading to the village by the same name. Very good lunch at La Casona. No albergue here, only a Casa Rurale which is fully booked for the week and the Pancorbo Hotel alongside N-1. Not much to look at from the outside but a clean and comfortable room (in the back, not facing the highway).
 
@PierreB in I am also happy that you found it such a gorgeous walk.

So today to Briviesca I presume?
I see on Gronze that the albergue municipal is still closed but there are lots of options to stay the night.
Briviesca has a nice Plaza Mayor.
Bar Octopuss in the middle does not look much from the outside but they are nice people and wifi on their terrace is an extra.
If you want to sample a good menu del dia then there is a great resto next to the ayuntamiento/ local police office.

Restaurante El Consejo!

 
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@PierreB in I am also happy that you found it such a gorgeous walk.

So today to Briviesca I presume?
I see on Gronze that the albergue municipal is still closed but there are lots of options to stay the night.
Briviesca has a nice Plaza Mayor.
Bar Octopuss in the middle does not look much from the outside but they are nice people and wifi on their terrace is an extra.
If you want to sample a good menu del dia then there is a great resto next to the ayuntamiento/ local police office.

Restaurante El Consejo!

28-04-22 Pancorbo to Briviesca (20 kms). Yes @SabineP. Nice walk out of Pancorbo followed by 3-4 kms of mud. Good thing it didn't last too long. Briviesca is a really nice small village. We went to Fortu Restaurante recommended by a friend, very good too. Got to visit the new albergue under construction: 16 beds, fully renovated two-story building near the Centro de Salud, opening in June or July.
 
You must be in Burgos already, @PierreB?
Such good news to know of the new albergue. The old one was already pretty nice, but in an apartment block. I loved the plaza in Briviesca, and the church. An ancient town, and Roman outpost.
 
You must be in Burgos already, @PierreB?
Such good news to know of the new albergue. The old one was already pretty nice, but in an apartment block. I loved the plaza in Briviesca, and the church. An ancient town, and Roman outpost.
Yes, we walked to Monestario de Rodilla yesterday but didn't sleep there. Our friend from Burgos picked us up in the afternoon with her car. Today, we switch from Pilgrims to Hospitaleros at the Casa de Peregrinos Emaus for two weeks :-)
 
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Yes, we walked to Monestario de Rodilla yesterday but didn't sleep there. Our friend from Burgos picked us up in the afternoon with her car. Today, we switch from Pilgrims to Hospitaleros at the Casa de Peregrinos Emaus for two weeks :)

All the best with the volunteering. May you only meet nice and gentle pilgrims.
I hear that Emaus is quite special. Hope you will a good time.
 
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