LIVE from the Camino OzAnnie complete VDLP/Sanabrés restart Tábara

[OzAnnie]

Note from the mods: In case you missed it, OzAnnie has finished her Levante in Zamora, hopped up to Tábara and is restarting the Sanabrés. For her report on her Levante from after Ávila, check out this thread.

Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.
A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.
There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.
There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.

The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.

Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!

 

[Former member 49149]

Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.
A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.
There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.
There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.

The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.

Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!

Lovley report, Annie. The washing line reminds me of the one in Estella. Close encounters could have been the name of that albergue! I will look forward to your reports, thank you.

 

[Theatregal]

Catching up this morning and wonderful to read all of your posts thus far and see the photos Annie. Thank you!

 

[LTfit]

Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.

Good place to start!

A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.

What a change. I first stayed in Tábara in 2013 when there was no hositalero and only bunk beds. Someone came in the evening to collect €5. Then Jose Almeida (not Pepe) took over and made it into a traditional donativo with communal dinner and breakfast. I helped him out a few days in 2014.

The new improvements with separate beds and more sanitary facilities are quite a change.

There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.

Oh yes, I remember the chupitos with Jose, deadly after a long days walk in the heat.

There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.

Music is also a new addition!

The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.

Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!

Buen Camino Annie!

 

[OzAnnie]

Great - thanks @LTfit
I’d forgotten that you’ve been Hospi far and wide. Some progress is good (Baños & beds etc) but the traditional warm welcome is probably the same as you recall and gave yourself. Thankyou for that.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Thank you for sharing @OzAnnie !
¡Buen Camino!

 

[UnniElisabeth]

Thank you for sharing @OzAnnie ! I’ll be on Camino Sanabres in June and will follow your reports on Live from the Camino. Buen Camino.

 

[Paul McAmino]

Thank you @OzAnnie for your posts from the VdlP. I’m curious about your restart from Tábara. Is that where you ended the last chapter of this Camino?
I’m pulling together some resources for the walk from Zamora, and I’m just curious.

All the best, and Buen Camino,
Paul

 

[Tom Conklin]

There is a huge Carrefour about a km down the main road from the albergue. There are also numerous ATMs if you need to get some cash. Try all of them as the charge for the transaction ranges from 9 Euro to nothing.

 

[OzAnnie]

restart from Tábara. Is that where you ended the last chapter of this Camino?

Yes Paul - correct. Time wise in 2019 - I had my last night in Tábara and caught bus back to enjoy a final night in Zamora before heading back to Madrid and home to Oz.

numerous ATMs if you need to get some cash. Try all of them as the charge for the transaction ranges from 9 Euro to nothing.

Big difference! (0-9). I try to use card where possible and hope to limit my cash withdrawals to minimum.

Sat 7/5/22
Made good time walking alone from Tábara to Santa Marta de tera. Approx 22-23 Klms
A small shop open just before the bridge across from Santa Marta de Croya. I bought a few supplies there for next days walk. Sunday in Santa Marta de Tera. Nil open …. Sunday.
You pay the 5euro fee for the albergue inside the church. You can also pay 1 euro to guide da yourself through the church and museum. Lovely. Food available at a bar there on the Saturday (.Platos conbinatos) not great but hit the spot for a hungry pilgrim.

Today 8/5/22
Walked 28 klms/. Santa Marta de Tera to Rionegro Del puente.

I’m going to sleep well. Just had the most delicious meal at ‘me gustar comer ‘. I think I’ll sleep well

 

[SabsP]

Sleep well Annie but please tell us later all about " Me gusta comer". One of my main reasons to walk the Sanabrés in the future....

 

[jimmyc]

i stayed there in 2019. A great experience.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow I go away for the weekend and come home to find that you are chugging along on the Sanabrés. ENJOY, Annie, loving your posts and pictures.

 

[Paul McAmino]

Thanks!
Have a wonderful Camino

 

[LTfit]

Sleep well Annie but please tell us later all about " Me gusta comer". One of my main reasons to walk the Sanabrés in the future....

I've never stopped in Rionegro but everyone who has raves about the food, the chef and the ambiance.

Sounds all good Annie. Ultreia!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Ultreia, Annie!

 

[peregrina2000]

I've never stopped in Rionegro but everyone who has raves about the food, the chef and the ambiance.

I stayed in Rionegro, found a dead mouse in the albergue, and didn’t know anything about Me Gusta Comer (but it was in 2010 so maybe it hadn’t yet opened). Seems like I should get back there.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

I've never stopped in Rionegro but everyone who has raves about the food, the chef and the ambiance.

Sounds all good Annie. Ultreia!

I posted a thread a long time ago about what I thought to be an obscure restaurant in a small town, and was amazed at the responses it generated.

 

[aussieannie]

Note from the mods: In case you missed it, OzAnnie has finished her Levante in Zamora, hopped up to Tábara and is restarting the Sanabrés. For her report on her Levante from after Ávila, check out this thread.

Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.
A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.
There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.
There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.

The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.

Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!

Hi Annie! Great to see that you are on the road again! I leave Oz on Monday for Vigo and then Finisterre/ Muxia (I missed Muxia last time with Laurie as I had tendonitis) I'm double boosted but I am not sure if I have to get a negative COVID test to enter Spain- I can't seem to find any info on the Health website- Did you take a test before you left!

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie! Great to see that you are on the road again! I leave Oz on Monday for Vigo and then Finisterre/ Muxia (I missed Muxia last time with Laurie as I had tendonitis) I'm double boosted but I am not sure if I have to get a negative COVID test to enter Spain- I can't seem to find any info on the Health website- Did you take a test before you left!

Annie
We don’t need a pcr test or Covid test to enter spain. But… do look up /check latest (I don’t want to steer you wrong and I’ve been here more than 2 weeks ) but you DID need to complete (then ) the Spanish Health form.
The link is on the forum. You need a QR health entry code if you are entering spain from Australia. ( not if you are entering spain on foot ).
Buen. Camino Annie.

 

[aussieannie]

Annie
We don’t need a pcr test or Covid test to enter spain. But… do look up /check latest (I don’t want to steer you wrong and I’ve been here more than 2 weeks ) but you DID need to complete (then ) the Spanish Health form.
The link is on the forum. You need a QR health entry code if you are entering spain from Australia. ( not if you are entering spain on foot ).
Buen. Camino Annie.

Thanks Annie! Hope our paths cross sometime. Buen Camino!

 

[Former member 49149]

Annie
We don’t need a pcr test or Covid test to enter spain. But… do look up /check latest (I don’t want to steer you wrong and I’ve been here more than 2 weeks ) but you DID need to complete (then ) the Spanish Health form.
The link is on the forum. You need a QR health entry code if you are entering spain from Australia. ( not if you are entering spain on foot ).
Buen. Camino Annie.

Hi Annie. Is this your current thread Forgive me, I am confused. Allowed for a senior, no?
Main point: that you may walk serenely. I might manage that myself for a few days late July...before a spell of duty in Zabaldika. Depends on a number of imponderables at this stage.

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie. Is this your current thread Forgive me, I am confused. Allowed for a senior, no?
Main point: that you may walk serenely. I might manage that myself for a few days late July...before a spell of duty in Zabaldika. Depends on a number of imponderables at this stage.

Thankyou @kirkie
This is my current (sort of dead ) live thread. I will catch up but for those who have walked the Sanabrés, they may understand more so, why I haven’t had the energy to post here. Also developed a bacterial infection around 4 days ago /lost my voice too for 2 days but have managed to keep up ….. it’s been a lot of climbing . Am in Laza tonight.
Good luck for your spell of duty in Zabaldika in July.
Annie

 

[trevorcc]

Note from the mods: In case you missed it, OzAnnie has finished her Levante in Zamora, hopped up to Tábara and is restarting the Sanabrés. For her report on her Levante from after Ávila, check out this thread.

Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.
A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.
There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.
There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.

The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.

Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!

Hi Annie, I am praying to be able to do one more walk, most likely the last (never say never) only have a month to be away so I thought I may start in Burgos and visit so many friends etc but always a Camino but being my last I want to be surprised each and every day like in 2013 (my first) so I though I would go Madrid to Salamanca and walk from there via Sanabres. I would love to hear about the Albergues and number of pilgrims I may encounter I walked part of the Levante and enjoyed the solitude, if you could share your walk I would appreciate ta Trevor

 

[LTfit]

Thankyou @kirkie
This is my current (sort of dead ) live thread. I will catch up but for those who have walked the Sanabrés, they may understand more so, why I haven’t had the energy to post here. Also developed a bacterial infection around 4 days ago /lost my voice too for 2 days but have managed to keep up ….. it’s been a lot of climbing . Am in Laza tonight.
Good luck for your spell of duty in Zabaldika in July.
Annie

Take care Annie!

 

[Former member 49149]

Thankyou @kirkie
This is my current (sort of dead ) live thread. I will catch up but for those who have walked the Sanabrés, they may understand more so, why I haven’t had the energy to post here. Also developed a bacterial infection around 4 days ago /lost my voice too for 2 days but have managed to keep up ….. it’s been a lot of climbing . Am in Laza tonight.
Good luck for your spell of duty in Zabaldika in July.
Annie

Get better, Annie. Stop. Then start when ready. Nothing happens for nothing.

 

[peregrina2000]

Also developed a bacterial infection around 4 days ago /lost my voice too for 2 days but have managed to keep up ….. it’s been a lot of climbing . Am in Laza tonight.

Hi, Annie,
Hoping you are recovering. Take care of yourself. Lots of ways to break up these last days, so you can take it slow if necessary.

In case you didn’t see the forum posts about the re-opening of the albergue in the monastery at Oseira, it sounds like a wonderful option if you can swing it after Cea.

And don’t forget the riverside walk into Ourense, avoiding the industrial outskirts slog! Just turn left at the Peugeot building!

Can you tell from my endless “helpful hints” that I am homebound and chomping at the bit to walk?! Post pics when you can! Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

I promise that as soon as I have decent internet I will update with details and pics.
I must say though that tonight was wonderful .. I was chatting to a Irish gentleman whilst having a drink in the afternoon and he asked if I by chance was OzAnnie. He is another forum member @An Tincéir
but we can call him John.
Later this evening , he found a few of us across the road from the albergue (Vilar de Barrio) at an older establishment… the owner is Carmiña . She is a character too. I had the luck to be welcomed by her at 12pm today on arrival. The albergue here doesn’t open until 1pm.

Edit: I see Gerald Kelly’s notes mention Carmiña’s place. She is a dear.
Note too: that it was the only place to get any food in the evening. There are other places around but none were serving food.
The albergue at volar de Barrio closes at 10pm so there were some there rushing their dinner to get back in time (it is virtually across the street from the albergue. / Casa Camiña )

 

[VNwalking]

Take care, Annie - hope you're recovering!
Infection and all it sounds like you are having a wonderful walk. I'm enjoying whatever posts you can add to the thread, imagining you there.
Buen camino, peregrina!
❤

 

[Eugene Carroll]

I promise that as soon as I have decent internet I will update with details and pics.
I must say though that tonight was wonderful .. I was chatting to a Irish gentleman whilst having a drink in the afternoon and he asked if I by chance was OzAnnie. He is another forum member @An Tincéir
but we can call him John.
Later this evening , he found a few of us across the road from the albergue (Vilar de Barrio) at an older establishment… the owner is Carmiña . She is a character too. I had the luck to be welcomed by her at 12pm today on arrival. The albergue here doesn’t open until 1pm.

Edit: I see Gerald Kelly’s notes mention Carmiña’s place. She is a dear.
Note too: that it was the only place to get any food in the evening. There are other places around but none were serving food.
The albergue at volar de Barrio closes at 10pm so there were some there rushing their dinner to get back in time (it is virtually across the street from the albergue. / Casa Camiña )

Thanks for your update and information about Vilar de Barrio. I am in the cracking new Albergue in A Gudina tonight and was thinking about staying in Vilar on Tuesday….which now looks good. Thanks again

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks for your update and information about Vilar de Barrio. I am in the cracking new Albergue in A Gudina tonight and was thinking about staying in Vilar on Tuesday….which now looks good. Thanks again

Albergue in Vilar de barrio is as clean as a whistle. 2 dorms identical .. separate male and female bathrooms. Shower water is ‘hot’. Great.
Kitchen new .. a couple of cups very little in way of utensils. A kettle you can boil water on cook top works. The microwave wouldn’t work for us. The fridge is working.

The procedure to get ‘into’ the wifi here at the albergue is painstakingly frustrating…. Eventually connect but it seems to only ‘stay’ connected when close to the unit.

 

[OzAnnie]

Ok catch up time
Sunday 8 May 2022. Arrived Rionegro del puente - stayed at albergue there.
Just wander in and choose a bunk.
The stamping and payment are followed up later in the day. She will find you.
Good enclosed sunny area to dry clothes. Same area for footwear to ‘rest up’.
Has a down downstairs and another upstairs. Bathrooms in both levels. Fairly good condition. Most are bunks. Exception is on bottom level there are 2 camas. And one double? Or king single cama.

The video probably won’t come through. It was of ‘the master at work ‘ at ‘me gustar comer’

I’ll attach a few pics
View attachment IMG_8239.MOV

 

[OzAnnie]

Monday 9/5/22
Rionegro del puente to Puebla de Sanabria

Okay now starting to notice the climbing - not too heavy going yet but noticeable.
One lady in albergue had problem legs and waited in Rionegro for a bus at 2pm which does the stretch to Puebla de Sanabria. It is a small bus. A bit more like a van. I was walking this stage with an American couple who were aware that same bus could pick up from Asturianos at 3pm. We did that section (asturianos to Puebla ) by bus too (I think about 2 or 3 euro at tops. .
Puebla is quite hilly. Main hotels are where bus drops off. The albergue (I didn’t see it) is before the bus crosses the river to go left up to the centre.
There are still cafes etc on the albergue side if you don’t want to walk up to Centre and the Castilla etc.

My hotel Los Perales is on way out .. which meant a walk down the hill. Then back up and down to get a meal later. I found something in a side street. The salad place was gigantic .. too much for me.
There are rooms at the top but I booked too late to find anything reasonably priced there. I was getting a chest infection at that point so I was starting antibiotics and wanted a private room. Therefore can’t comment on the albergue.

 

[OzAnnie]

10/5/22
Puebla de Sanabria to Lubian
Wow a hard day for me.
We are getting into the climbs now.
First section to sleepy pueblo of Requejo de Sanabria. Opportunity here for a stop .. cafe etc. Outdoor tables in shade. It’s starting to heat up now.
I had started later than usual from Puebla de Sanabria and didn’t leave Requejo until 12. Little did I realise how long I’d take to get up the climb to Padornelo. The paths in much of this section is ‘a stream’. Rock hopping .. avoiding as much mud as possible. Ultimately— giving in to walking through the rocky and wet paths. Trying to ensure a wrongly placed foot wouldn’t have me ‘in the drink ‘. Some I met at the top at padornelo were finished for the day and were ‘…. What a day … etc.
I still had to walk to Lubian..it was more wet walking - you can use the lovely outdoor decking area to put your wet shoes etc to dry. I booked at Casa Irene.. really nice … but still a good walk to eating places for dinner and breakfast. Bar Javi. There are 2 bars close to each other. The casa Irene sends her guests to Bar Javi.

Note: no pics of all the water walking / I just wanted to stay on my two feet and not end up dropping my phone.

 

[OzAnnie]

Further thoughts to the climbs and rocky muddy wet areas. I am concerned as to how @JennyH94 will work through this area. (Mainly up from Requejo and onward. ) There is no way she could possibly pull her trailer ‘spot’ up through this. I would assume she would have to get good ‘intel’ on what’s ahead and take the road. BUT - what happens with the section to Padornelo? I’m not familiar with anyone needing the road there as the cars go through a pass (tunnel ). ?
I think Jenny is still somewhat south of the Sanabrés section still but I’d like for her to know the best route. (May need to put spot in a taxi ??).

A lot of these fabulous mountain climbs especially around Campobecerros felt like a computer game. That is:: you reach the top level and then the game decides to add more levels …. They kept popping up. I felt those climbs were all more difficult than the primitivo etc Or maybe 7 or 8 years really shows.

Any thoughts though on Jenny’s possibilities for the wet climbing sections where spot cannot go?

 

[peregrina2000]

I booked at Casa Irene.. really nice …

Oh, so glad to hear that it’s open again! (I sent a note to Gronze to ask them to put it back on). I slept here many years ago, and Irene was the owner. She was a young widow and had a very sad life story, but was determined to keep going. She got a lot of pleasure from the house and her garden. Then I learned she was very ill and died. Gronze doesn’t list the house so I thought it was still closed. So nice to see that the new owners have kept Irene’s name!

 

[OzAnnie]

And don’t forget the riverside walk into Ourense, avoiding the industrial outskirts slog! Just turn left at the Peugeot building!

I’m heading off now - sunday 7.30am from A Pousa / I’ll add notes on yesterday later. But I’ll try to find this riverside walk entry … and report back.

Can you tell from my endless “helpful hints” that I am homebound and chomping at the bit to walk?! Post pics when you can! Laurie

Im really feeling for you ! I hope your feet problems are solved soon

 

[OzAnnie]

11/5/22
Lubian to A Gudina
Perchance having breakfast at bar Javi in Lubian there was a French peregrina who wanted company for the days walk. It was a change. Pleasant to stop and snack with company along the way.
The weather had remained perfect for walking - I still had not had to break out my rain gear. Arriving at A Gudina (Marie ) continued to the Albergue (off on road to right ).
I stayed in a private room in ‘ Hostal
A Madrileña ‘. Not on booking - called 34 988421030 and price was E22 for a single with bath. Had good wifi too.
It is on the left as you walk into town.
I went a short way up the restaurant Oscar for a good menú del día.
I didn’t really look around A Gudina as I was all tuckered out / but it is a decent sized place with quite a bit to see.
The owner of Hostal Madrileña said she’d have the bar open at 8 -8.30 for breakfast but it was not open so I found something at Oscar. There is a bar further up where most of the pilgrims go though.
Pics below of room and foyer . The bathroom had a bath (yay)… but no plug . …. the dining table & area was at Oscars

 

[OzAnnie]

Numbers walking Sanabrés part up to 15th may has been just nice. No ‘lines’ of walkers that I’ve seen; the municipal Albergues aren’t filling up at the moment I think in the main because a lot are booking accommodation. I am seeing people on and off though. So you get your times to socialise if you want to at days end. Others are on a mission! This comment refers to ‘before Ourense’ the cut off for 100klm to
Santiago.
Weather has been fine. Was starting to heat up a few days but Sunday 15th had cloud cover but the rain passed by.

 

[OzAnnie]

My feet are good !
I tend not to mention this topic too early in case I jinx myself .. but walking 17-18 days and feet are (feeling it) but no damage to cause treatment or limping etc (no blisters ).
I can’t put it down to any one thing for me really. I usually get some beauties on the heels.
A few things that may have helped this camino.
1/ I am carrying less weight than previous years (lost a few kgs over last 12 months).,
2/ I ve tried to minimise my backpack weight. . Not sure I was successful .. but can’t drop anything. May need the sleeping bag again and the rain gear. Those and the actual pack (Osprey ) and water make up most of my backpack weight. I usually carry more water than I use as I try to stop and get refreshments when possible on the trail.
3/ wearing Hoka one one ‘Bondi 6’ trail shoes. Suit me - soft and cloud like
4/ before sleeping I have been rubbing feet with ‘paw paw cream’ which is similar to Vaseline and then put socks on to keep stuff off sleeping gear and slipping on floors
5/ each morning I add a bit of ‘hikers’ wool around my heels (under and back ) I have the nz hikers wool but it is made elsewhere as well. Supposed to be the lanolin in the wool is beneficial.
6/ I have a silicone toe spacer between little toe and 4th toe because I get annoyance there when the ‘corn’ I developed in 2016 grows. The spacer keeps the two digits apart - my podiatrist also made me a fitted spacer for same area on my right toes.

Edit: 7/. I am using the ‘lace lock technique (find on YouTube ) to ensure minimal slippage on heels which cause heat and possibly blisters. I’m trying it all.

Oh I thought of another point on my way up … /8. I’m trying 2 socks.

I haven’t done the ‘feet in the cool stream’ bit - so far this time … but I think it helps a lot to refresh your feet if you can ..

So —. Maybe I’m just lucky so far. Hoping it will continue - But blisters are the pits. I don’t want any this camino if avoidable.

 

[MickMac]

Maith thú, Well done Annie keep on going.
Buen Camino

 

[MickMac]

Lay off the wine and chips, is that the Aussie staple diet ?
Met the brother in Ponferrada 3rd May he was totally unaware I was going.

 

[OzAnnie]

Lay off the wine and chips, is that the Aussie staple diet ?
Met the brother in Ponferrada 3rd May he was totally unaware I was going.

Great surprise !! You look alike @MickMac
Buen camino

 

[OzAnnie]

12/5/22 A Gudiña- Laza 34 ks
But I could see the climbing and this distance would be too much. So arranged a taxi for first 7.2 klms. Phew. There were a lot of people up the mountain early. (We are talking ‘Sanabrés numbers here ‘. Not many) but most were up there. This is the jewel of the Sanabrés. You are up on top walking up one (.I’ll call them mountains ) and then another etc. Glorious views.
The two Spanish pilgrims were under the umbrella as it was rather hot then. Another pic is a lovely surprise - donativo refreshments ., snacks ., fruit etc. Very good one.
I had a booking at Laza with Pension Blanco condé on booking at e32.50 owner is Conchi.
Another pilgrim (Irish gent John). Told me that he walked in without a booking and she gave him a price of E50. He came back to her quoting this was way above advertised price and she immediately changed it to E30. Good for him. Quite a discount.
The accommodation is great though.
She also has a dining area for breakfast from 6am !! Everything there but you help yourself. Make the toast ., tea etc. There is milk ., cereal ., cakes etc. Too. She gives this ‘gratis ‘.
When i arrived after 3pm / she drove me the 600m across town to the only place that was still serving menú del dia (time wise ). So after that I came back to my room and never emerged after my shower. The hills give you such a workout (although wonderfull , inspiring and invigorating)… they tend to have the effect of making me need a nap. Given a menu Del dia on top of that …….. cave in to a food coma too.

En route 12/5/22 I stopped for a coffee at Castrelo de Val. At a bar run by Rosarío. She is an amiga of Conchi (in Laza)
Rosaría has her 96 yr old mum in the bar sitting there and being cared for. I was told that the father who was 101 yrs died on Monday 9/5/22. So all was rather sad.
The pic is me leaving her bar.
A few pics of the glorious walk and the pic with the cows was the restaurant at Laza where I had my menú del día.
It looks like milk direct to the bar ! With those cows.

 

[peregrina2000]

Loving your posts and pictures, Annie! Is the descent to Campobecerros still a treacherous slip and slide experience over loose shale? I was undere the impression that the construction of the AVE might have produced a re-routing, which would be nice.

And just to say that Gronze put Casa Irene in Lubián back up about 1 hour after I wrote to them. I’m so glad you mentioned it, because it is a very nice spot.

 

[OzAnnie]

Loving your posts and pictures, Annie! Is the descent to Campobecerros still a treacherous slip and slide experience over loose shale? I was undere the impression that the construction of the AVE might have produced a re-routing, which would be nice.

And just to say that Gronze put Casa Irene in Lubián back up about 1 hour after I wrote to them. I’m so glad you mentioned it, because it is a very nice spot.

From that pic coming into Campobecerros- it was a switch back Type sort of paved path down to the pueblo. There are many places you need to watch where you place your feet with top gravel etc. It would only take one wrong placement !!
Good of you to inform Gronze about Casa Irene . Gronze is something we all fall back to and I saw myself that you can join and then you can send updates and pics etc. I’ll follow up myself but not today.

 

[OzAnnie]

13/5/22. Laza - Vilar de Barrio
I covered this mostly in posts #28 & #31

A comment : The Spanish ladies look so great when they come to town : they ‘dress well’ mostly and wear colourful heels ..
…. …..Well in Vilar de Barrio I saw a colourful Peregino from USA. He said he lives nearby Chicago. But he is a colourful character too. He is walking longer etapas than most of us but was friendly and a kind sharing personality. You may think he comes from Hawaii ?? No. Chicago region.

He took the selfie of us at Vilar de Barrio.
(Yes - I look a wee bit colourful too).
Ps. If I haven’t mentioned it earlier? Don’t order food etc from the bar that you come to first at Vilar de Barrio.
It’s rather seedy and you don’t get a nice feeling about it.

Edit. I think this stop and related pic refer to this days walk.
The stop with all the shells. You are asked to write your details on a shell so that they can ‘immortalise ’ it. Ha ha.
I asked where the 2022 shells were and Roberto told me that their Albergue (nearby ) has just as many shells. Wow.

 

[OzAnnie]

14/5/22 Vilar de Barrio - A Pousa ( approx 3 klms past Xunqueria de Ambía)

Well .. I kept hearing that ‘it’s all downhill from here. Ha !! I was hauling myself ‘UP’ a lot of supposed downhill ?

Now — when you’re within 4-5 klms from Xunqueria de Ambía, it does get ‘downhill’ and the steep bits are a test on the knees. It’s a distance that one can cope with though.
I encountered rain for the first time during that day. My rain gear laughed at the rain.

 

[VNwalking]

Gosh this all looks beautiful, Annie.
Really enjoying your updates!

 

[OzAnnie]

Section of 3klms Xunqueria to A Pousa

A Pousa

Carmen speaks no English but you can communicate in either Spanish or French.
You can communicate in English on WhatsApp with ?? ( I don’t have a name but she was super helpful ) .. I had reserved a room .. on booking approx e20. Shared bathrooms only … but read on.

Initially when I arrived on the road at A Pousa I was looking for the bar that is carmens. The first one wasn’t hers I found after having a cerveza con limón there. I also told the owner of the 1st bar that her light switch in the ladies baño was peligrosa and went with her to explain.

Light goes out automatically after a minute or two and it was pitch black. Feeling with my hands for the switch - I touched the left side which was uncovered and got a shock. She took some tape later and covered the uncovered section .

I then found Carmen was the bar 100m approx further on the right.

Rooms beside the bar. All really nice (on booking com) but all rooms had shared bathroom. I was lucky. No one else was there - so all to myself. Large room 2 double beds. Clothes lines out back in sun near the chickens to dry clothes.

Menú del día was served thru the bar area in a lovely garden dining area. Really good find. It’s 3klm further on from Xunqueria so makes walk to Ourense a wee bit less.

There is a supermarket right beside Carmen’s bar too.
A day later ., I noticed I had lost an ear ring and WhatsApped to ask if they had found it. Yes. It was on the step. I said I could transfer funds into their account from my bank on iPhone but she declined the offer and is posting it via correos to my hotel in Santiago for free. (Note the cost of my room was only around E20 !!
What a gem. The place is so tranquil but good food available (they ask you what time you would like it !!! ).
I’m blown away. Spanish people (in the main) are so extremely kind.

 

[OzAnnie]

15/5/22
A Pousa - Ourense

@peregrina2000 You will be pleased to know that when I arrived at the Peugeot building, I took a left too. I was on your lovely river path. (Fluvial ).
It is very well covered with directions on Michael’s ‘wise pilgrim ‘ app. Very carefully detailed and agrees with your memories .

The call of the cuckoo is a constant background sound.. are they telling me I am ‘cuckoo?’

Seeing people from last stage of levante approaching. (Fast walkers -). I bussed from Zamora to Tábara and they’ve caught up with me!!

A castellano. There is a bar on left and today (Sunday) there is a stand cooking pulpo & doing a good trade. I’ve just eaten a chocolate croissant… so not this time.

I thought I’d missed the river route but then looked at Michaels ‘Wise Pilgrim’ guide. He shows it as an alternative. The fluvial route.

I walked into Ourense and a section of the boardwalk at the end and decided to go up to main centre to find food but I was just a tad too far through by then. I was directed back a tiny bit to a restaurant that served food. A few other pilgrims found this place after me. An Oregon couple ., then the 2 German guys I had walked near on the Levante - They have caught me up ..
I am staying at Hotel Irixo /booking dot com E35 single. Very poky but does the trick. Central as you could want.
Had drinks later near the cathedral ?? Church ?? It was a Latin jazz restaurant. I stopped there early next morning for cafe con leche y churros. It looks like an awesome place. I wish I’d had someone to share it with the previous night.
The nz guy ordered a bottle of rioja wine there on 15th and was surprised that it was e17. It’s not always cheap. You need to ask.
I also asked at hotel Irixo about how to get to the thermas .. and hiring towels etc. She said that this not possible on Sundays?? She gave me bus schedule etc but no one I’d spoken to that day were intending to check them out and since it was a bit rainy etc. It was not inviting to traipse out to look.
Something to come back and do one day maybe / but I must admit I am not someone who likes spas etc. It could have helped weary ‘bones:muscles’ on this occasion though.

 

[OzAnnie]

16/5/22 Ourense - Cea

Leaving Ourense. Michael of wise Pilgrim describes the two alternative ways.. very clearly. the right variant - he treats as the commonly walked ., and the left way is actually ‘continue straight on’ when you reach the street corner where the split occurs. Check out ‘wise pilgrim’ . Taking the right is a little over 1klm longer but it appears to have a few more stops for coffee .. I went right.

• There are lots of cafes open for morning coffee- I always end up having more than one stop but there are stacks of places and also fruit shops open as you’re leaving.

I reach the flatter ground with gravel and can use my poles now. I’m up high and looking back / awesome city. I’ve just passed a lady with head covering on/ all ready to be clearing some of her land - -she had a cythe in her hand! wow! very impressive! but I didn’t embarrass her by asking for a photo I just took it all in.

I’d booked accommodation at Casa Mañosa e45. It had two beds so I think the rate incorporates ‘the room’ cost rather than a single.

Other pilgrims (when we shared info at dinner later ) ‘sol y Luna ‘ said the albergue is small … not so clean. e8 which is standard Xunta rate. Has room for 40 odd and that there were approx 30 pilgrims staying that night.
2 showers for ladies and same for men.
A Germán Peregrino shared that if you are choosing your bunk / choose right at the back as the emergency lighting is bright and is less bothersome if you’re at back .

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, no, Annie, you are now officially on the home stretch! Are you heading to Muxia from Santiago? I remember that is where we first met in person years ago!

Glad you found the river walk, it is so much more pleasant than the industrial park alternative!

Your place in Cea looks so nice, but then I am a real sucker for old stone houses with lots of green grass all around.

Forge ahead, amiga!

 

[OzAnnie]

Oh, no, Annie, you are now officially on the home stretch! Are you heading to Muxia from Santiago? I remember that is where we first met in person years ago!

Tossing up whether to just do some slow walking and take time out to Muxia and then Finisterra; or follow in @ebrandt ‘s tracks and walk some Vasco del interior. I’m following her blog. So many choices. Muxia looks good though

Your place in Cea looks so nice, but then I am a real sucker for old stone houses with lots of green grass all around.

Forge ahead, amiga!

Easy mistake to make @peregrina2000 … I didn’t label all the pics. Casa mañosa in Cea is actually tucked away in between old stone buildings. The owner was waiting on the street for me to arrive (I’d have been searching !) I had called 2 hrs earlier to let him know when I’d likely arrive. The pics show only 2 of the interior.
The cutesy garden pics etc and animals (pics for grandchildren) are just before arriving in Cea. Some people keep their gardens so well., I can’t resist taking photos.
The pic below shows casa mañosa hidden behind old stone buildings (entry is brown door ). I saw no one after my check in. It only has about 5 rooms and waa completo. They did have a wee grassed area out back but it had been raining. No use hanging garments outside to dry.

 

[Saint Mike II]

G'Day Annie - you are now making me very, very jealous. The Via d l Plata was my first camino attempt back in 2013. I think I am going to have to make some serious planning for a departure in late April 2023. I love some of your photos. Really great scenery. Oh, BTW the vino tinto is on my when next we meet.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hi (again) Annie - sort of came to this series of post late. Did you start in Sevilla or somewhere further up the track?? I have to agree with Laurie some of you photos are truly beautiful and are worth keeping. Cheers

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi (again) Annie - sort of came to this series of post late. Did you start in Sevilla or somewhere further up the track??

Hi Michael
Unless you’re a fast walker, the Vdlp/Sanabrés can take quite a while. I started in Sevilla in April2019…got as far as Tábara on Sanabrés, then had to leave for my flight back home.
This year 2022… I’ve picked it up at Tábara (on Sanabrés)
Now I’m on the final stages and it’s all got that familiar ‘coming home’ feeling.
The middle section of the Sanabrés (over/through the high part of the mountains) (around 4 or so days) was quite taxing for me, as I’d planned longer stages than I should have.

Buen camino

 

[VNwalking]

Vasco? Did someone say Vasco??
It is a beautiful walk. If you wanted a short taste, you could take the train from Santiago to Tolosa (direct, it leaves in the morning) and walk from there to Vitoria, Miranda de Ebro, or Haro - all have good train connections. 3 days to Vitoria; then choice: either 3 more to Haro or 2 more to MdE (3 to Pancorbo, a wonderful walk from MdE, but not sure if you could get the train from there).

 

[OzAnnie]

Vasco? Did someone say Vasco??
It is a beautiful walk. If you wanted a short taste, you could take the train from Santiago to Tolosa (direct, it leaves in the morning) and walk from there to Vitoria, Miranda de Ebro, or Haro - all have good train connections. 3 days to Vitoria; then choice: either 3 more to Haro or 2 more to MdE (3 to Pancorbo, a wonderful walk from MdE, but not sure if you could get the train from there).

You’re always a reliable peregrina with ideas @VNwalking
Are you describing the same route that Liz & Tom are on right now ? (Vasco del interior )…
Is that train to Tolosa more direct than a slow bus north from Santiago and along the ‘top’ to irun ?
I was thinking the Vasco started from irun ?

Edit. You’ve got me checking Gronze. .
I can see your idea of starting in Tolosa would be better for my time available and also I would cut out the tough ist stage.
I don’t want to set myself stages that are too long or difficult and have the enjoyment spoiled.
It would be travel on 23rd
Start on 24th from Tolosa . Walk 11 days until 3rd.(maybe Burgos )?
Travel to Madrid on 4th.
Fly home on 5th.

But I’ll decide whether I want to spend lazy days around muxia / Finisterra or work out until the end …

 

[Robo]

Loving your updates and photos Annie.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hi Michael
Unless you’re a fast walker, the Vdlp/Sanabrés can take quite a while. I started in Sevilla in April2019…got as far as Tábara on Sanabrés, then had to leave for my flight back home.
This year 2022… I’ve picked it up at Tábara (on Sanabrés)
Now I’m on the final stages and it’s all got that familiar ‘coming home’ feeling.
The middle section of the Sanabrés (over/through the high part of the mountains) (around 4 or so days) was quite taxing for me, as I’d planned longer stages than I should have.

Buen camino

Hi Annie - thanks. I went back to your first post May7 and read the opening comments. Enjoy the last 3 or 4 days. Cheers

 

[aussieannie]

Annie
We don’t need a pcr test or Covid test to enter spain. But… do look up /check latest (I don’t want to steer you wrong and I’ve been here more than 2 weeks ) but you DID need to complete (then ) the Spanish Health form.
The link is on the forum. You need a QR health entry code if you are entering spain from Australia. ( not if you are entering spain on foot ).
Buen. Camino Annie.

Hi Annie
Arrived Barcelona today! It’s lovely to be back! Starting from Vigo on 24th but in Santiago on 20th - 22nd. Will you be around?

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie
Arrived Barcelona today! It’s lovely to be back! Starting from Vigo on 24th but in Santiago on 20th - 22nd. Will you be around?

Yes. Booked into San Martín for 20th.
They only had that date available.
I have bookings for 2 more days in sdc (21 and 22 different hotels) but still in Santiago. We will find each other for sure.
Annie. Enjoy Barcelona - love it there.

 

[VNwalking]

You’re always a reliable peregrina with ideas @VNwalking
Are you describing the same route that Liz & Tom are on right now ? (Vasco del interior )…

Yes!

Is that train to Tolosa more direct than a slow bus north from Santiago and along the ‘top’ to irun ?

Well, I went looking and it seems the more direct train I took to Irun (which stopped in Tolosa) no longer runs. This was the best I could find, about the same as the bus along the Norte, with long connections.

I was thinking the Vasco started from irun ?

It does indeed. But if you just wanted a taste, getting a jump on the start allows more of the goodies.

 

[OzAnnie]

17/5/22. Cea - to. hmmmmmm (Lalín on invierno )
Accommodation problem for many pilgrims..on this stretch ..
Dozon albergue closed?
The Taberna do vento at estación de Lalín was completo. Many therefore either taxiid ahead to A Laxe or across to Lalín (on the invierno). Since I was familiar with that route /I booked accommodation on north side of Lalín at Hostal Caracas. Was very happy with it. Paid e23 for private room (single ) with bath. Pilar let me know on WhatsApp that she could either arrange a taxi pick up for me from Sanabrés or come in her own car. It was raining steadily and I called her from A Xesta. No problem she said. 10 minutes I’ll be there for you.
She said it was nothing - no extra.
Room was convenient to restaurants and getting on the route for next morning. The fluvial route. Pic below.
You can see the room pictured has a double bed. Good value I think.
Breakfast leaving Cea earlier .,was at Sol y Luna. There were quite a few pilgrims there. The couple that run it are extremely kind and nothing seems a bother. (I guess they are used to us !) In Lalín there is also a 24hr Repsol very close opposite almost. I had breakfast there today. 18/5/22.
The walk to A Xesta 17/5/22 was long mainly because of the rain.

 

[OzAnnie]

18/5/22. Lalín (invierno) - Silleda.
This time I booked hotel Ramos in Silleda (Single private with bath e35 )/ just a little further up same street as the ‘turística ‘ where i stayed in 2018
More drizzly weather today. Since I was expecting a really short day / I didn’t get up until 6.30am. . Really took my time on route and lots of pictures etc.
Distance seemed to really drag though. Nearing silleda the klms marked seem to stay firm. The route seems to wind around a lot and it still ends with a lot of rock hopping (cow “””” stuff ) and water - picking your way down to Silleda. It was very familiar to 2018.
So tomorrow to Ponte Ulla and then hopefully into Santiago on Friday 20th.

 

[MickMac]

Great pic's Annie looks a lonely trail, loved the pic in bar with what looks like two women with masks and hats is one of them related to Prince Charles.
These are parts of Spain few see and will never walk.
Enjoy the rest of your Camino.

 

[VNwalking]

Do please stop for pastries in Bandeiras, and eat some for us!

Bandeira: Do NOT miss the café-pastelería Dulce Deza. The best cafetería in the northern hemisphere. This time they gave me a pastry that I never had tasted before. It was the best thing I ever had. Softer than croissant, cream inside but more buttery than in a napolitana, and a white powder on top... Ah! I wish I had taken a photo of it so I could ask you if you know what it is called! But it ended up in my stomach all too soon. That cafetería deserves a pilgrimage on its own! It now dawns upon me that Dulce Desa is also in Silleda, right next to Hostal Toxa (not Hostal Toxic). Next time in Silleda, I will investigate if they keep the same standard there.

 

[OzAnnie]

Great pic's Annie looks a lonely trail, loved the pic in bar with what looks like two women with masks and hats is one of them related to Prince Charles.
These are parts of Spain few see and will never walk.
Enjoy the rest of your Camino.

Ha ha. The stuffed dummies. Not sure what they represent. But.. I too noticed the huge ears on one (that you likened to a royal relationship ).

 

[OzAnnie]

Do please stop for pastries in Bandeiras, and eat some for us!

Just reading Bad pilgrims note about a shop in Silleda also. I’ve already had my wandering around Silleda … I wouldn’t expect it to be open when I leave in the morning but thanks for the ‘ahoy there’ in respect to Bandeiras. I will definitely be ready for one then. Sounds like something I’d like for sure. !!

 

[OzAnnie]

Today 19/5/22
Coming into Bandeiras… this panadería is the first place you come to. I recognised it immediately (from my stop there doing Invierno in May 2018).
As mentioned above -
it’s called
“Pastelería Dulce Deza “
I tried to explain what I was looking for and ended up with a poor substitute// then ‘whoa there’. they serve a gratis piece/slice of (refer @Bad Pilgrim ‘s description of it).. yum. I then explained to the girl that ‘this’ was what I was looking for. Price was really low.
I asked if I could take a photo of the ‘cut’ one and then she offered the uncut one for me to photograph . The texture was just as described with a creamy filling etc. with white powder on top (icing sugar). I asked the name : >>
to my ear it sounded like ‘Golosas ‘
Served a square gratis with your coffee.

 

[OzAnnie]

19/5/22
Silleda - Ponte Ulla
Started and finished today with perfect skies. Previous 2 days needed covering although it was very light rain. On 17th I chose not to don my poncho and the backpack straps were soaked.
So yesterday ., although only light drizzle I used my poncho. !!
Regarding 2 sellos per day for last 100 klms to Santiago … I spoke to a few other pilgrims today who ‘pfffffd’….the idea. No not necessary .. but myself .. I always like to follow rules. But …. I was so engrossed in the pastelería in Bandeira., it slipped my mind. .. then the next opportunity just around Dornelas… there is a place (accommodation) with a name like Albergue Leira ? I could have got a sello there but didn’t think again. So about 5-6klms from Ponte Ulla .. I saw a local lady near a wood cutting place and asked if there were any places before Ponte Ulla. I showed her my credencial and explained. Her eyes lit up !! She said: Ah. ! I have a sello. Come with me. So into her car (50m away was her home ). She is called Pilar (a popular name in Spain) & had intended to open her casa for peregrinos last august but her mother and father became ill. Her mother died in December and her father followed in January.

She was lovely. Made me coffee ., plied me with cake and insisted I take as gifts (3) shells /all personalised. See pic of one below. I insisted on donativo offering but she wouldn’t have any of it. She insisted I was her primero peregrino !!
Gave me the book to write a message from Australia as the first pilgrim .
I felt extremely honoured.
She will have her place on the internet I believe. Her stamp reads ‘Firca Arduriras- Camino De Santiago’. She has a lot to look after / she showed me her Bodega with her prizes in there of her own 4 caminos. (Her casa is pic 2 and 8)
She also works in the policía. So a busy woman.

I reached Ponte Ulla later and things have changed since 2018. The Bar Rios which served a wonderful meal then seems to be closed. Casa Juanito where I had a private room in 2018 has different owners and is called : A taberna de Gundian. Still has rooms etc. Food is very so so. But it’s food.

I have a private room this time in albergue O Cruceiro .. I don’t think anything I’ve been to can beat the value. E15 for private room with bath. !!
They do breakfast from 7am. Also have a dining area with meals available at normal Spanish times 8pm etc. I can’t comment as I ate down the hill at A taberna.

Note: if locating albergue O Cruceiro on leaving centre of Ponte Ulla. See pic 7.. Don’t take the sign of the camino which track takes you around behind the albergue. Just after the camino sign in pic you can see a speed sign with ‘50’ - there are steps right at that point which take you up to the carretera and to the bridge. You can see albergue more easily from that direction.

 

[MickMac]

Beautiful shells and great pics Annie stay safe.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Her stamp reads ‘Firca Arduriras- Camino De Santiago’. She has a lot to look after / she showed me her Bodega with her prizes in there of her own 4 caminos. (Her casa is pic 2 and 8)
She also works in the policía. So a busy woman.

Beautiful story of the Camino!
Thank you @OzAnnie !

¡Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Great story, Annie. And the pics as always are lovely.

WOW, there is a Carrefour Express below the Día now. I am not a Día fan, so this is great news!

 

[aussieannie]

Yes. Booked into San Martín for 20th.
They only had that date available.
I have bookings for 2 more days in sdc (21 and 22 different hotels) but still in Santiago. We will find each other for sure.
Annie. Enjoy Barcelona - love it there.

Hi Annie - I’m off to Vigo tomorrow morning. Are you around tonight, I’m in S Martin Pinario

 

[Theatregal]

So about 5-6klms from Ponte Ulla .. I saw a local lady near a wood cutting place and asked if there were any places before Ponte Ulla. I showed her my credencial and explained. Her eyes lit up !! She said: Ah. ! I have a sello. Come with me. So into her car (50m away was her home ).

Ahhh... these chance moments that lead to lovely unexpected experiences! Just catching up on your posts this morning Annie. Enjoying your stories and photos tremendously!

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie - I’m off to Vigo tomorrow morning. Are you around tonight, I’m in S Martin Pinario

Sent pms. Annie. Xx

 

[peregrina2000]

Sent pms. Annie. Xx

AHHHH, wasn’t I there the last time you two met? If I could figure out how to treat you to a glass of wine in the Costa Vella garden, I would! Send pics!

 

[OzAnnie]

AHHHH, wasn’t I there the last time you two met? If I could figure out how to treat you to a glass of wine in the Costa Vella garden, I would! Send pics!

I met Annie thru you Laurie. You both walked the Norte. We enjoyed chats and drinks at Costa Vella as your great memory recalls.
I will update the last day into sdc when I can - it’s very late now. Letting you know @aussieannie managed to meet up with myself and some others here. We had a great night. So glad we managed it. She said she’d bumped into @Anniesantiago in the lift in SMP too. !! AussieAnnie is off walking another camino tomorrow. She’s amazing. We won’t mention numbers and ages but wow. (Use it or lose it comes to mind ).re pics - Les (my UK friend from 2014 Norte took some / He will WhatsApp them when he can.
X
It can be very busy catching up.
Earlier in the day I was introduced to Johnny Walker where I met up with Tom in person ( @t2andreo ).. we had lots of mutual acquaintances and stories to keep us entertained for a few hrs.

 

[aussieannie]

I met Annie thru you Laurie. You both walked the Norte. We enjoyed chats and drinks at Costa Vella as your great memory recalls.
I will update the last day into sdc when I can - it’s very late now. Letting you know @aussieannie managed to meet up with myself and some others here. We had a great night. So glad we managed it. She said she’d bumped into @Anniesantiago in the lift in SMP too. !! AussieAnnie is off walking another camino tomorrow. She’s amazing. We won’t mention numbers and ages but wow. (Use it or lose it comes to mind ).re pics - Les (my UK friend from 2014 Norte took some / He will WhatsApp them when he can.
X
It can be very busy catching up.
Earlier in the day I was introduced to Johnny Walker where I met up with Tom in person ( @t2andreo ).. we had lots of mutual acquaintances and stories to keep us entertained for a few hrs.

I had a great evening with Annie,Les & Mike - thanks guys for including me! Would have been amazing if you could have been there too Laurie! Maybe next year? I have a couple of Caminos planned- possibly May & Oct -will our paths cross? xx

 

[OzAnnie]

I better check in and confirm that I arrived Santiago. Friday 20/5/22 about 1pm.

I had 3 nights in Santiago but couldn’t get continuity….. so it felt like i was still ‘on the way ‘ packing up each morning (later than usual tho ) and moving to new digs.
I scored a bonus on my arrival at San Martín. Expecting my level 4 room - reception smiled at me and said : I have a gift for you. Putting you in one of the updated rooms on 1st floor. Same price.E25. They usually are E50 I think.
Much more space. 2 beds (same type as level 4). Shinier bathroom. You can see out the windows more easily too.
2nd night. Not worth recommending e57.. 3rd night between estaciones and alamada park. PR Mexico. I’d stay there again. It was E51 on booking but I’m heading back to Santiago for 26th. I’ve arranged a single room there e40 not thru booking.

3 days chilling out in Muxia /have been busy!!
I’ve decided to pop across to Dublin to see friends for 5-6 days. At this stage flights were xxxxxx and I have to fly Sdc-bcn -Dublin. Not as bad as from Sydney but would have liked direct. Not available on my dates.
For now. That’s it.

 

[AJGuillaume]

Well done @OzAnnie ! Thank you for sharing your Camino!

 

[mspath]

OzAnnie,
Glad you made it and that we could share your journey.
Enjoy your memories.
Carpe diem!

 

[peregrina2000]

Ah, the Costa Vella garden, thanks for that picture, Annie. Love the one of you on the rocks in Muxia.

Lots of us have enjoyed following you along — from the Levante to the Sanabrés to Muxia — and now off to Dublin. Have a wonderful stay.

 

[OzAnnie]

Ah, the Costa Vella garden, thanks for that picture, Annie. Love the one of you on the rocks in Muxia.

Yes - I took the Costa Vella garden pic thinking of you …. It’s such a lovely outdoor space.
The pic of the sign showing the place to get a photo of Pico Sacro ., I took that then., as the whole high point was fogged/clouded in.

 

[chinacat]

I’ve just caught up with this, @OzAnnie
Been reading it the last few days.
Wonderful photos and so much useful information
Thank you!!
Enjoy Dublin!