One Week on St Jacob's Way (Jacobsweg)

[BobM]

I will be starting my ''experimental" walk from Oberhofen on Irrsee on July 11, ending in St. Johann in Tyrol on July 16, followed by a few weeks as a standard tourist in Germany, Austria and Hungary.

This walk is experimental in that I will have my baggage transferred each day and carry only about 4kg plus water and food.

Those of you who followed my reports from the field while walking the Via Francigena nel Sud (Rome to Bari) last year may recall how I found some days mentally and physically challenging. It was quite a shock. I carried too much stuff, having planned to continue on the Via Egnatia from Durres to Thessaloniki, so I had a bivvy bag, sleeping bag plus extra guidebooks etc.

That plan ended at Bari, and I thought that my long-distance walks were at an end. But time erases difficulties, and so this year I want to see if I can continue walking, albeit with only a tiny load, hence the luggage transfers.

Anyway I hope to post daily reports in this thread pecked out on my phone plus a few pics.

Bob M

 

[NualaOC]

Good luck Bob, looking forward to reading your posts.

 

[SYates]

Buen Camino/Guten Weg @BobM , SY

 

[mspath]

Bob,
Glad to read that you are continuing; looking forward to reading your new posts and seeing new pics.
Carpe diem and Ultreia!

 

[Doogman]

Best of luck on your walk and thanks again for the advice you provided earlier this year on the beginning section of the Via Francigena. I leave for Canterbury a couple of weeks from now.

 

[lovingkindness]

Guten Weg, Pilger. Enjoy every minute....

 

[domigee]

Guten Weg, Bob.

Ps: a bit disappointed, when this thread came back on 'recent threads', I thought it was you updating us on your walk !

 

[BobM]

Saturday, 8 July Vienna

Thanks for the kind wishes & apologies for not mentioning you all by name. I am pecking this message out on my phone so it is an agonizing one finger exercise.

I spent today in Vienna getting over jetlag before heading to Salzburg and then to the start of my actual walk.

Two surprises so far: Rain actually falls in summer in Austria!!! The day started hot and sunny, storm clouds built up and the heavens opened with a storm about 2pm. So I had a practice poncho donning. Then I checked the forecast for the next 10 days and it showed little cloud icons with little slanting lines falling from the bottom. I wonder what they mean??

The second surprise was a nice one. My Locus Map of Austria shows the Jacobsweg route with scallop shell icons; so I walked part of it to the wonderful church in Stephansplatz. Choir singing. Tourists thronging.

Great place, Vienna.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Monday July 10. Seeham

Today I arrived on the 120 bus from Salzburg Hbf to spend time relaxing in the country before my walk starts tomorrow.

The coarse beach sand of Obertrumersee sparkles with flecks of mica. Kids were playing and skylarking in the water and on giant plastic blow-up trampolines and diving platforms; a few doing very skilful somersaults and backflips landing back on their feet.

Small slender fish, almost translucent, darted about in the water,mistaking my tossed pebble for food.

A few apple trees had fruit the only the size of plums but already showing a demure pink blush.

I feel a great sense of belonging in this place, and others like it. Fulfillment and home-coming; "where peace comes dropping slow into the heart's deep core. " (W B Yeats)

One pic shows chamber music rehearsal in St Stephans, Vienna. The other pic is the country as seen from my room in Seeham.

Best wishes to domigee who starts walking tomorrow; and to Doogman who starts the VF in a couple of weeks.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Tuesday July 11. Oberhofen to Eugendorf

Today I started at the train station in Oberhofen. I had a beautiful walk of 24km, mostly along Wallersee (pic).

I saw many of my old friends again: Beautiful white, pink flowers that seem to be in e ery place I have walked.

There is the tiny wayside chapel of St Jacobs at the top of a steep climb at the start of the walk.

The other pic is where I had a break near Aring.

Excuse brevity today.

 

[BobM]

Wed July 12 Eugendorf to Salzburg 15km

Today was a beautiful walk in cool and slightly cloudy weather. I visited St Maria Plain en route. More later. The last section was along the lovely Salzach River to the centre of Salzburg.

More later + pics; but I have some homework for you re yesterday.

At one place my nav notes said to proceed through a farm; but the dirt track was blocked with warning signs strung on a cord. See pics.

I proceeded uneventfully anyway.

What were the signs warning about?

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Wed July 12;At Salzburg

Here are a few impressions of the day. Most of the route was on quiet country roads through small villages. The last section followed the Salzach River on a beautiful path under trees.

There were jagged mountains far ahead of me that seemed to get bigger as I continued the walk.

Lots of small shrines and a few more elaborate as pictured.

Navigation was easy, with many small Jacobsweg scallop-shell stickers. Some as pictured were larger.

A highlight for pilgrims is the basilica (?) of St Maria Plain, which is close to the route and very obvious (pic).

Water points and cafes were rare, which surprised me.

The weather was cloudy mild and humid and built up into brief rain showers in the early evening.

Austria is wonderful for walking. So far I have seen lots of cyclists but few hikers.

In Salzburg I had coffee and Sacher torte at the Hotel Sacher. The most famous Hotel Sacher is in Vienna and is firmly on the tourist agenda. Google for the story of the famous torte.

I had flashbacks today when something undefined in my surroundings triggered vivid memories of another place on some other pilgrimage walk that I could never place exactly.

Anyway, more to follow.

Bob M

 

[lovingkindness]

Sache Torte, yum....

 

[BobM]

Thursday July 13 Salzburg to Bad Reichenhall 21+ km

My post and photos of this stage have vanished probably when the hotel WiFi misbehaved.

Here are a few pics again. Text on the day to follow.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Thursday July 13 continued

Today was a wonderful walk with lots of variety: A walk along the River Glan near Salzburg, forests, a stream crossing, farmland. Mountains with wisps of clinging cloud. See pics.

Interesting sights: Gois church set above an expanse of lawn being mowed by a robot mower. (Query: is God compatible with a robot?) See pics

Then there was the beautiful church and palace of Marzoll set in nice grounds with a duck pond. Pic

Near Bad Reichenhall is the wonderful St Zeno Monastery.

It is worth googling these places to learn more.

Today I had to navigate the old-fashioned way with paper map and estimating distances when my GPS unit failed at the Steigl Brewery just outside Salzburg. Did the heady fumes from the brewery overcome it? I ask because it miraculously came to life again in the healthy spa atmosphere at Bad Reichenhall.

Someone had placed a tray of small white apples on their fence near the lovely church in Viehausen for passers-by to eat.

The churches in this part of the world are very attractive, with the unusual domes of the bell towers.

OK that's it for the day.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Friday July 14 Bad Reichenhall to Unken 21km

Today was all about the wonderful scenery; walking under trees beside rivers,with wonderful mountains. See pics.

Mainly flat and easy to navigate. Plenty of little Jacobsweg stickers. I even saw red and white Jerusalem Way stickers. Another thing that surprised me was the abundance of path-side seats for comfortable breaks.

It rained heavily for a couple of hours.

Lots of cyclists. Met an Austrian man taking 4 months to walk from near Vienna to Santiago.

This section of the Jacobsweg is quite different to any of my other walks. I really recommend it.

Anyway, that's enough one finger pecking this out on my phone. These are just quick impressions, not considered and complete notes.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

One more pic for Friday.

 

[BobM]

Saturday July 15 Unken to Waidring 21km

Today was a day of rain that started heavy then waxed and waned during the day with a few heavy spells.

Navigation was very easy on excellent paths with plenty of Jacobsweg signs and other signs to guide hikers.

Rainy days can pose navigation problems if you are reluctant to get your maps/guides soggy. Mobile phone screens don't work if very wet. Plus, if you are trudging along hunched into your poncho it is easy to miss important turns. One also tends to skip sit down breaks if there is no shelter.

But today I walked through stunning scenery along rivers, in forests, across hillside meadows with farmers scything and forking meadow grass.

Today I also left the Salzburger route of Jacobsweg and joined the Tyrol route just after Lofer. There were quite a few pilgrims starting here.

Anyway, here are some more pics.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Sunday July 16 Waidring to St Johan 32km

Today involved a 28km walk and a 4km return cable car Buchenstinwand to the 1420m summit.

Today was another wonderful day of scenery. Paths beside rivers and Pillersee, across flower -strewn alpine meadows being cut for winter stock feed.

Stations of the Cross at St Adolari and a later set of reflective monuments.

I am a little beat at the moment so I will post pics and a few more notes tomorrow.

Bob M

 

[Purky]

Avidly reading your reports, Bob. I'm aiming for a few days around the St Johan area end of this year...

 

[BobM]

Sunday July 16 continued

Today is the last day of my walk. I return to Salzburg by train and will be a tourist for a couple of weeks.

There is so much to say about the walk so I will continue to post comments as they occur. If anyone would like more specifics please post here or private message me.

It is difficult to compare walks, but of all my long walks this has probably been the prettiest and easiest to navigate. The stage distances of about 20km were ideal for me.

There are not many food places close to or on the route so you need to carry supplies for the day.

No vicious dogs that freak some people out in France snd Italy, even in towns. There are farms but very few dogs.

Public transport is excellent along the route.

Breakfasts tend to be at 7am or later but some hotels offer breakfast from 6:30am.

More later. Enjoy the latest pics.

Bob M

 

[mspath]

Bob,
So glad that your week has been both a pleasue and a success! Your daily updates were as tantalizing as the photos. Looking forward to reading your further summary comments as you shift into tourist mode.
Carpe diem!
Margaret

 

[BobM]

On the way to St Johann in Tirol there were a few enigmatic 'stations of reflection' (Besinnungsstationen).

I have posted 3 pics of one of them. One pic has some German text that you can translate in google. I reflected while seated and then walked through the door. That seemed a natural thing to do but I don't know if that was the intent.

BTW, some other person dumped the empty bottle; presumably a person who was not so reflective about disposing of trash.

The panorama is from the top of the cable car I already mentioned at Buchensteinwand. The ride costs €10.6 and lasts about 25 min each way. The distance one way is 2km and lots of people walked down. It would be a nice excursion if you have time. There is also a bus from the cable car station to St Johann if you wanted to shorten the walk by 12km and spend more time on the summit.

BTW the Predigtstuhl cable car near Bad Reichenall goes up to 1614m and looks spectacular. It opens at 9am and I was too early so I had to miss that ascent. It is said to be the oldest original all-year cable car in the world.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Avidly reading your reports, Bob. I'm aiming for a few days around the St Johan area end of this year...

Let me know if I can help.

Don't forget what the weather might be like at the end of the year.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Bob,
So glad that your week has been both a pleasue and a success! Your daily updates were as tantalizing as the photos. Looking forward to reading your further summary comments as you shift into tourist mode.
Carpe diem!
Margaret

Thanks as always, Margaret.

I feel more confident now that I can walk a few more times if I can carry a minimalist load of say 5kg and don't have all the accommodation problems that bedeviled me on the VF Sud last year.

This supported walk was operated by EuroHike and the navigation instructions were from hotel to hotel. Having that certainty removed a lot of stress from each day.

They also operate EuroBike for cyclists.

BTW, I saw a lot of cyclists riding bikes with electric motors to help on ascents. That struck me as an excellent way to ease the pain of a cycling holiday through hilly terrain.

The websites are worth looking at for ideas. World Walks also is worth a look for ideas.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

A few more quick notes.

I carried the pack I have used for all my walks. It fits about 10kg. The problem with a much smaller load is that all the stuff flops about in the bottom and is inefficient from a load bearing point of view. Much better to use a pack made for a smaller load and pack it full,with a bit of space for food.

The Austrian OBB website is great for planning trains and buses.

Many of the pretty village churches have a rubber stamp inside so you can add to your collection of pilgrim stamps.

I hope more people will consider the pilgrimage routes in Austria instead of the better known routes in France, Spain and Italy. My walk opened my eyes to the possibilities.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

St Jacob's Cross at summit of chair lift

There is a remarkable cross at the summit of the chair lift near St Jacob that I mentioned earlier.

It is another reason to visit the summit if you are walking to St Johann. Here is the link, but just Google if it is broken.

https://www.fermacell.com/1973.php

BTW the lady who owns the Tirol Hotel in St Johann where I stayed has walked the Camino herself. It is a nice 3-star hotel close to the center of the town and a short walk to the train station.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

A few more random thoughts.....

Austrians eat dinner early, often at 6pm. This suits me perfectly.

Meals are large in general, which also suits famished pilgrims.

Costs can be high. A schnitzel with potatoes and a small salad and a small bottle of mineral water will cost €15. A simple coffee is 3 or 4 €. A more substantial meal with soup, main course and water will cost roughly €22. Wonderful Austrian ice cream desserts will cost about €8.

I have found the local people to be very helpful and welcoming. Cycling and hiking are such common activities that Austrians are familiar with the requirements. I saw many cyclists on the last weekend and I am sure most of them were out for a weekend ride or maybe on vacation. There were also quite a few backpackers, not necessarily all walking the Jacobsweg.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

BTW I have been spelling Jacobsweg incorrectly and that does not work for the EuroHike and the World Walks websites I mentioned earlier.

Try Jakobsweg (with a 'k') and you should have better luck; but my walk did not pop up immediately for some reason I don't understand.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

If you want a different spiritual dimension to your walk, read up on some of the many fairy tales that abound in the region (eg Grimm's)

King Karl is sleeping inside Untershorn Mountain near Salzburg. Every 100 years he wakes up and if there are no ravens circling the mountain he will become king again. That's the version I heard locally but if you Google you will find a different version.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Another random note.

The section of Jakobsweg that I walked was occasionally along roads, but in all cases there was a cycling path separated from the road itself.

I have noticed the same thing along other busy roads in Austria, so maybe it is common in Austria.

Having a safe cycle path to walk on reduces the danger from traffic.

In many places along other pilgrimage routes in France Italy and Spain walkers have to walk on the tarmac surface facing the traffic and it can be dangerous.

It's just another reason to consider walking the Jakobsweg in Austria.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

More on electric-assist bikes . . .

The popular classs of bikes i saw on my walk are called eBikes. The following Wikipedia article has some interesting background:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_bicycle?wprov=sfla1

If the link is broken just Google ebike and scroll down to the Wikipedia article.

That's probably the end of my random post-walk thoughts.

Thanks to everyone who found the infromation useful.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

I keep finding usedul bits of information for pilgrims who are passing through the Salzburg area.

I have spent a few post-walk days at St Wolfgang on Wolfgangsee. It's another beautiful place to visit and I found it has a pilgrim walk from St Gilgen to St Wolfgangs Church in St Wolfgang that has been famous since the early Middle Ages and is associated with many legends about St Wolfgang.

Trip Advisor has some useful information at.
https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/3138233?m=19905

The walk is about 8km. The Tourist Office in St Wolfgang has an excellent brochure on the walk, its history, and special sights and legends along the route.

You can easily get to St Gilgen on the 150 bus from Salzburg Train Station and other stops along the way. The trip takes about an hour.

BTW St Wolfgang also has a popular cog railway that ascends 1300m to the summit of Shafsberg at 1800m with wonderful views of the lakes. Google Shafsbergbahn. There is a large memorial cross on the summit and places to eat. Nice walks across alpine meadows.

Bob M

 

[Kathor1]

@BobM, I very much enjoyed reading your posts in this thread. Pleasant to read and informative. I hope you don't mind the following little "excursion" concerning this quote:

King Karl is sleeping inside Untershorn Mountain near Salzburg. Every 100 years he wakes up and if there are no ravens circling the mountain he will become king again. That's the version I heard locally but if you Google you will find a different version.

I think the mountain near Salzburg is actually called Untersberg and it's emperor Karl, i.e. good old Charlemagne of Roncesvalles fame.

You are right, there are different versions of this story, the one of emperor Frederik I (Barbarossa) or emperor Frederik II sleeping in a mountain of the Harz range is more widely known. I learnt a new German word: Bergentrückung which describes this popular motive in legends and folklore. In English it's just King in the Mountain ... .

 

[BobM]

Thanks to Kathar1na for correcting my hasty version of the Emperor legend. These stories are all fascinating and one always wonders about their origins and different versions.

Some are easier to understand; such as the one about St Wolfgang that you encounter on the pilgrimage route from St Gilgen.

Hikers come upon a rock that is very comfortable to sit on (apparently - I did not do this walk myself). When the weary St Wolfgang first sat down here, God took pity on him and the rock turned to wax and moulded itself to his buttocks; creating the comfortable seat one can still enjoy.

Bob M

 

[domigee]

Very interesting and informative Bob, as ever. So glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the photos too.
No wonder I missed your posts, we were walking at the same time!
I too loved walking in Germany and then Austria (but following the Danube). Astounded to find numerous benches along the path, some even with a water fountain and always a bin! Dogs also - as you mention - always extremely well behaved. Never had a problem finding food or drinks even on Sundays - love the bakerei!!! And of course the evening meal served between 6 and 6.30, perfect for a pilgrim. Oh and did I mention it was very flat?
Will you return to continue next year? So many paths, so little time!!!

 

[BobM]

Will you return to continue next year? So many paths, so little time!!!

Walking Jakobsweg it felt a little odd to be going backwards, as it were. I felt I should be walking towards Jerusalem, not away from it - especially when I came across a waymark showing the distance to Jerusalem, an impossibly vast number of kilometres. Jerusalem keeps nagging at me, like grit in a boot. Unfinished business.

When I got to St Johann, I did have a look at the map and saw that it was 'only' 580km further to Besancon, and another 340km to le Puy-en-Velay; both places redolent with memories for me.

Will you do another walk next year? Why not try the VF nel Sud from Rome?

Bob M

 

[lovingkindness]

Walking Jakobsweg it felt a little odd to be going backwards, as it were. I felt I should be walking towards Jerusalem, not away from it - especially when I came across a waymark showing the distance to Jerusalem, an impossibly vast number of kilometres....

...I felt exactly the same way as you did, BobM, as though I should be heading south not north when some time after leaving Jerusalem, just after crossing the border into Slovenia I came across a Jerusalem Way sign. For the next three days I had a powerful urge to turn around and walk straight back to the Holy Land. Eventually I stopped in the middle of know where to ponder these intuitions....do I, don't I, do I? ... but I didn't...

'Next year [in] Jerusalem'...

 

[BobM]

...I felt exactly the same way as you did, BobM,.......... I had a powerful urge to turn around and walk straight back to the Holy Land. Eventually I stopped in the middle of know where to ponder these intuitions....do I, don't I, do I? ... but I didn't...
'Next year Jerusalem'...

Nice to hear from you again, lovingkindness. You have always been a help to me on my walks.

I am a bit obsessed about walking into Jerusalem through the Damascus Gate, but I am finding this little walk unusually daunting to start - not because of security - but because of the seeming difficulty of finding convenient accommodation close to my route each day. Maybe I should just go, and figure it out on the hoof.

But to re-quote that famous saying, so full of meaning and hope to so many Jewish people, maybe it will be "Next year in Jerusalem" for me.

All the best for the Festive Season and for 2018.

Bob M

 

[domigee]

Nice to hear from you again, lovingkindness. You have always been a help to me on my walks.

I am a bit obsessed about walking into Jerusalem through the Damascus Gate, but I am finding this little walk unusually daunting to start - not because of security - but because of the seeming difficulty of finding convenient accommodation close to my route each day. Maybe I should just go, and figure it out on the hoof.

But to re-quote that famous saying, so full of meaning and hope to so many Jewish people, maybe it will be "Next year in Jerusalem" for me.

All the best for the Festive Season and for 2018.

Bob M

Bob, I think you'll end up walking it or at least I wish you do
The way we did it, accommodation was indeed a problem, (across the Anatolian desert), there were long stretches of 50+ km.... (Often 60!) And in November when there is less light, it's a no no. Or at least it was for me.
Other people managed it (i have read their books!) but they were men... Found accommodation with the locals who are indeed very welcoming.
Didn't work for me. I was walking with a man who was neither my husband or my brother or my son.... Couldn't rely on the local people being understanding and taking us in... So we cheated and went through Ankara and Konya instead. And even in Konya I was told off "how can your husband possibly accept your doing this?" And my room was two floors above my walking mate!
I think the 'easiest' way to Jerusalem now is through Italy...Greece... ?
Sadly, not the way I did it any more, seems even more complicated now....
But there is always a way, Bob and when you're there, it's never as bad as you feared or as others think, from afar. It's fine . Funnily enough .

 

[lovingkindness]

@domigee, your journey sounds interesting. Where did you set off from?

 

[domigee]

@domigee, your journey sounds interesting. Where did you set off from?

Hi Lovingkindness, I set off from home (Kent, Uk), met up on the coast with my walking friend who was walking from London, followed the via francigena to Besançon. Then we crossed over to Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia, Bulgaria and Turkey. From Istanbul we were going to walk down to Antalya but instead cheated and took a train to Ankara, the reason being what I tried to explain before: 60 km between assured accommodation. I was neither prepared to camp or to 'try my luck' with local hospitality. Also by then the ferries had stopped running for the Winter. Then Konya and a little town on the coast Tasucu.... We took a ferry to Girne and walked to Limassol. Then no boat would take us (never knew why but probably because we had walked from Northern Cyprus) so had to fly from Larnaka to Tel-aviv. And from there walked to Jerusalem.
I wouldn't do it again that way as I think it may be difficult now crossing borders into Hungary etc...?
Did you walk through Turkey and then on to Jerusalem? I have read lots of different accounts of similar trips but then I really am not adventurous as all these wonderful people!
Sorry it is such a long message but...it was a long walk!

 

[lovingkindness]

Hi Lovingkindness,...
Did you walk through Turkey and then on to Jerusalem? I have read lots of different accounts of similar trips but then I really am not adventurous as all these wonderful people!
Sorry it is such a long message but...it was a long walk!

Hi, @domigee + @BobM. No, I didn’t go this way but I day-dreamed it sometimes. Serbia, Bulgaria, Turkey are exotique places...

When I set off for Jerusalem the war in Syria had just begun. Turkey had been in my thoughts for years but just as I was leaving bizarre tales began to circulate so I decided to aim for Arles then Assisi and examine the situation from there.

…I thought that if I made it to Assisi it would truly be a miracle. You see, the day I started out I had no money to speak of, just a sure knowledge that I must try. To be honest I didn’t think I’d last more than a few days before hunger struck and I’d need rescuing.

I became a street musician and offered to work in exchange for dinner and a bed on the days when I earnt nothing. It took me 9 ½ months to walk from Castella near Agen in France to Jerusalem. I’m still amazed that I got there.

In Rome I busked behind the Pantheon for an hour or two every day, on the doorstep of a convent. Twice an elderly nun appeared. She was very insistent. She said I must not go to Syria. So I didn’t.

I continued on to Bari then sailed to Patraso. I hiked the E4 trail from Aigio to Gythio then village to village along the Island of Crete. After which I flew to Tel Aviv, then followed the Israeli National trail to Jerusalem.

…I wasn’t able to plan ahead. It took all my energy to live the day that I was in : to walk the distance, make music for an hour or two then find food + shelter. It was intense and I felt very blessed…

Every day that I walk as a pilgrim I seem to have the same lessons to learn. Is it like that for you, too ? My lesson is that I must trust and not be afraid…

 

[lovingkindness]

...Sorry it is such a long message but...it was a long walk!

Ditto

 

[domigee]

Truly inspiring, what an achievement!!!
And yes, same lesson

 

[CamilleS]

Thursday July 13 Salzburg to Bad Reichenhall 21+ km

My post and photos of this stage have vanished probably when the hotel WiFi misbehaved.

Here are a few pics again. Text on the day to follow.

Bob M

Hello Bob
Did the Camino from sjpp to Santiago two years ago. Now we will do another piece. We start in Salzburg and will head to Innsbruck. Are pilgrims recognized at local inns along this route?
Any information would be welcomed! Thanks. Camille

 

[CamilleS]

Thursday July 13 Salzburg to Bad Reichenhall 21+ km

My post and photos of this stage have vanished probably when the hotel WiFi misbehaved.

Here are a few pics again. Text on the day to follow.

Bob M

Hello Bob
Did the Camino from sjpp to Santiago two years ago. Now we will do another piece. We start in Salzburg and will head to Innsbruck. Are pilgrims recognized at local inns along this route?
Any information would be welcomed! Thanks. Camille

 

[Kitsambler]

At least in Bavaria (just over the border to the north), yes pilgrims are recognized. There are generally not "pilgrim lodgings", but the innkeepers will look out for you, give some flexibility in scheduling, possibly give a reduced rate. There are nowhere near as many pilgrims as on the Camino Frances, so pilgrims (especially North Americans off the beaten tourist track) may be treated as an oddity. People try their best to be helpful.

 

[BobM]

[QUOTE="CamilleS, post: 660302, member: 52792" . . . .We start in Salzburg and will head to Innsbruck. Are pilgrims recognized at local inns along this route?
Any information would be welcomed! Thanks. Camille[/QUOTE]

The atmosphere and lodging are not the same as on the Camino, but very enjoyable and mercifully less crowded. Hiking and cycling are popular in Austria, so hotels in smaller towns are familiar with hikers and cyclists coming and going. The scenery is really, really beautiful - see the pics in my earlier posts.

My walk and baggage transfers were organised by EuroHike, and they chose the lodging for me. If you have a pilgrim's guidebook to Jacobsweg and use its recommendations for accommodation you would probably find more pilgrim friendly places to stay. I suppose you could search out religious accommodation as well, but it is not as plentiful as you would find on the Via Francigena in Italy.

All my hosts were good and understood my needs (eg for early breakfasts). My host in St Johann (Hotel Tirol) had walked the Camino herself, so we had a common bond.

Austrians eat early in the evenings, and that also suited me.

Jakobsweg in Austria was one of my favourite walks and I hope you enjoy it as well.

Best wishes
Bob M

 

[BobM]

One other thing I forgot to mention above. There are many great excursions if you make time in your schedule.

Ride the cable car at https://www.berchtesgaden.de/en/cable-cars/predigstuhlbahn . Take the cable car to the summit cross at https://www.fermacell.com/1973.php and have a delightful meal on the summit.

Bad Reichenhall is a famous spa destination.

Relax by the beautiful lakes.

I could go on and on.

Regards
Bob M

 

[BobM]

Sometimes I would go into a café at 6pm and it would already be crowded.

There are many traditional dishes to enjoy. I enjoyed the southern German comfort food, Flädlesuppe which is often called simply pancake soup. It is a vegetarian broth with vegetables and noodles made from pancake-like crepes. See:
https://www.123rf.com/photo_6700840...based-on-consomme-with-rolls-or-stripes-.html

Wonderful cakes and desserts as well!

Bob M

 

[BobM]

I have to stop writing these messages - I long so badly to be back there again. It's the same watching the Tour de France or the Giro d'Itala on TV.

Suddenly I will see a road, a scene, or a village that flicks me back in time to when I walked through similar (or the same) villages and scenery. I forget the cyclists and home in on familiar flowers by the road; feeling again the crunch of gravel under my feet and the cool shade of trees on hot days, when I would cross the road to enjoy the briefest respite from the sun under even a single tree.

Bob M

 

[CamilleS]

At least in Bavaria (just over the border to the north), yes pilgrims are recognized. There are generally not "pilgrim lodgings", but the innkeepers will look out for you, give some flexibility in scheduling, possibly give a reduced rate. There are nowhere near as many pilgrims as on the Camino Frances, so pilgrims (especially North Americans off the beaten tourist track) may be treated as an oddity. People try their best to be helpful.

Thanks for this Bob.
I am having a hard time finding the start point in Salzburg. Will the tourist office be able to assist? I became very reliant on the John Brierley book on the Camino Frances- which had all the answers. I see by your pictures that there are some camino markers along the way. So any help with a sense of direction would be great!
Thanks, Camille

 

[Kitsambler]

Thanks for this Bob.
I am having a hard time finding the start point in Salzburg. Will the tourist office be able to assist?

Yes but ... in German-speaking areas the route tends to go from church to church, so it is likely to pass right in front of the cathedral. There is also a pilgrim association office near the cathedral, just off the main square. There are guidebooks, in German. The most popular is https://www.conrad-stein-verlag.de/buecher-shop/oesterreich-jakobsweg/

 

[CamilleS]

Yes but ... in German-speaking areas the route tends to go from church to church, so it is likely to pass right in front of the cathedral. There is also a pilgrim association office near the cathedral, just off the main square. There are guidebooks, in German. The most popular is https://www.conrad-stein-verlag.de/buecher-shop/oesterreich-jakobsweg/

Thanks for your help! Of course, it makes total sense! Look for the cathedrals and churches! Again, thanks!
Camille

 

[BobM]

Hi Camille

Here are the instructions from my navigating notes to exit Salzburg until you reach the Steigl Brewery (which you will smell before you see it). I can't recall seeing any pilgrim signs on the walk out of the centre to the brewery. It is about 3 km to the brewery. My notes also suggested taking the bus to the brewery instead of walking.

Walk across the Staatsbrücke bridge and continue straight ahead through the archway, then turn right and continue along the pedestrian zone (well-known Getreidegasse road) until house number 33, turn left here through a house. After that straight ahead/half right towards a tunnel and Pferdeschwemme (on Karajan Platz square). Walk towards the Neutor/ Siegmundstor gate (tunnel). To the right of the tunnel entrance is the start of the cycle/foot path through the tunnel. Once on the other side continue towards the right straight ahead along the footpath. Continue straight ahead also at the zebra crossing (sometimes Way of St. James markings visible) and then continue along Neutorstraße (always on the cycle path towards Glansiedlung). Turn left into Bräuhausstraße for the Stiegl brewery and turn left around the area until you reach the visitor‘s car park (right hand side).

From here you head into the suburbs and arrive a the airfield after about 3 km.

There are occasional Jakobsweg markers, often tiny stickers on poles, but not the profusion you find on the Camino.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you need any more information.

Best wishes
Bob

 

[BobM]

Here are a few photos of signs, plus one of "Wander Golf", which you will come across on one stage of Jakobsweg. I think the idea is that you hike from hole to hole and putt up ramps and suchlike. Looks like fun.

Bob M

 

[Kitsambler]

The Pferdeschwemme is a horse bath (no joke) (think: ride through) (might be mistaken for a long, wide fountain) immediately adjacent (on the river side) of the Festspielehaus (large performance hall used for the Salzburg Festival).

 

[BobM]

Here are some pics of wayside shrines (marterl) commonly seen in Austria. The shape is very typical. Other 'column shrines' are on pedestals.
Another pic shows a drinking trough, presumably for horses, or maybe livestock passing by.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Sorry for the deluge of information, guys, but I have another idea to share.

I use Locus Map Pro on my Samsung phone to navigate on my hikes. So far as I know Locus Map does not work for iPhones, only android devices.

Anyway, the maps are incredibly cheap, maybe only 30 cents (30 Locus Points) for the Austria map. You buy Locus Points upfront (100 cost $A1.50 and the bill appears on my phone bill). New users can get one map free (I think, but check). Their maps are fully usable offline (ie no internet required - just satellites). You can zoom in to get great detail, usually down to house level in cities. The maps have topographic contours.

Cutting to the chase: the Austria map comes with the Jakobsweg route and variants shown with little scallop shell icons.

I am sure there are other equally good map apps (eg Pocket Earth for Apple), but I really love Locus Map. It has heaps more functionality that the average user will ever need, and (like all nav apps) there is jargon to master and a learning curve.

Bob M