From my blog of December 5, 2010
To Land's End
The last five days have been spent walking in winter conditions further across Galicia towards the sea at Finisterra. On Tuesday after a quick final breakfast with Adelardo I slowly made my way out of Santiago in steady rain to Negeira. It was a long, sloppy slog of 22km across many hills through eucalyptus forests and much mud. Walked on and off with Anita, a young Korean girl with very sore feet. We two plus a Quebeçoise and an Australian girl were the only pilgrims at the municipal albergue. Luckily it was well heated and there were many blankets since outside it was getting very cold.
On Wednesday Anita and I continued crossing the cold, bleak forest landscape to Vilaserio where we stayed in an old school which is now a minimal albergue. (The only alternative was to walk 20km further to the next accommodation.) The school had a toilet, shower, floor mattresses and NO heat! Outside it was sleeting; inside on tile floors the constant cold was hardly bearable! Of course I wore my woolly hat plus gloves to try to sleep, but there was no relief. Frankly I am surprised that we even made it through the night! By dawn a thin layer of treacherous ice stretched to the horizon outside.
Thus Thursday walking carefully through sleet, snow and rain Anita and I followed many wet, narrow lanes crossing 23kms of higher and higher hills to eventually arrive exhausted at the wonderful albergue complex at Oliveroa. Here were cozy blankets, working radiators, and hot water, plus the kind hospitalero who remembered me from past years. What welcome comfort in contrast to the previous frigid night ! Many other pilgrims were fully exhausted since they had done the total 33kms under severe conditions.
Conditions were to get worse, however. Next day, Friday, all awoke to a thin layer of brittle ice covering most surfaces; this was especially slick on rock and stone and the Camino would now climb up over stone for several kilometers. What to do? Luckily an Australian pilgrim, Liz, a trained trail guide came along and calmly walked and talked me up the icy trail!
After climbing an hour or so our path, now descending, became unfrozen mud. I never really appreciated walking on mud until AFTER trying to walk on ice! What a relief! At last it was easy to hike down through pine and eucalyptus forests towards the now visible sea and land's end at Finisterra.
Liz and I plus a French guy spent the night at the welcoming albergue at San Roque above Corcubion. In the dark from the dorm window we could see the last lighthouse beacon shining out to sea.
Yesterday, Saturday, I walked alone the last kilometers down into Finisterra and out to the lighthouse. The rain was cold, the wind was brutal and the surf rough, but it was wonderful to feel alive! Here the land's end was my journey's end.
By the old stone cross near the marker for kilometer 0 while looking out to sea, I offered heartfelt thanks for life, for strength, and for determination to have successfully walked these past months and many kilometers. ...Weeping I wondered about the journeys yet to be. ULTREIA!
