LIVE from the Camino On the Olvidado

[Fred Gaudet]

Started the Olvidado on Sunday, August 29. The Olvidado and the Norte share the same directions for a few miles. I never did see the Devil’s Bridge and just kept following the great signage. I finally realized after checking my track that I was not on the Olvidado. Some nice folks kept insisting that I continue until I came to an alberque but I turned around to head backwards on the Norte. (It’s hard going backwards because signs are missed.). After about 3.5 hours in the wrong direction I found the correct road for the Olvidado. Just as the Caminos leave Rio de Bilbao at the first roundabout Fray Juan Kalec take a right onto Kastrexana etorbidea. I didn’t see any Camino signs, but my maps said that that is the correct street.

Since I wasted some much time, I decided to call a taxi as I was leaving Alonsotegui but the person answering the phone could not understand my pronunciation of that town. I asked a runner going past if he would call for me, which he did, but after about five minutes was told to call back later—not many folks around on a Sunday afternoon. Well I just had to walk the next 15 Kim’s, hoping to get to Güeñes in time for supper, etc. About 2 Kim’s later the runner appeared in his car and took me to the Hotel. People are really helpful here in Spain.

Today I was taking the 2b option to get to Villasana de Mena. Somehow I missed the split between 2a and 2b. After Arla Barrón I went past the Iglesia de Santa Cecilia and following the good Camino signage, through an industrial park. After crossing a major highway I realized that the road I was then on had a sign that said to Nava de Ordunte which didn’t seem correct. So I checked my track and saw that indeed I was not on the Olvidado. However, it seemed that I could follow the highway and sooner or later the Olvidado would cross it. So off I went, but I would not recommend it to anyone.
If you miss the split of 2a and 2b and get to the church of Santa Cecilia, turn back. Don’t continue thru the industrial park like I did. Just go back a little way where there was a right turn and look to the left—that’s where 2b goes according to maps that I looked at tonight.

A bright spot in my confusion today, that once back on 2b stopped for “ menu del dia” at Bar/Hotel Don Pablo in Mercadillo which was very good. Hotel Foramontanos will be closed from the first to the tenth of September.

 

[MikeJS]

I loved the Olvidado and had no problems in the first few days following the route. Are you using Ender’s Olvidado App?

 

[Hennie]

Started the Olvidado on Sunday, August 29. The Olvidado and the Norte share the same directions for a few miles. I never did see the Devil’s Bridge and just kept following the great signage. I finally realized after checking my track that I was not on the Olvidado. Some nice folks kept insisting that I continue until I came to an alberque but I turned around to head backwards on the Norte. (It’s hard going backwards because signs are missed.). After about 3.5 hours in the wrong direction I found the correct road for the Olvidado. Just as the Caminos leave Rio de Bilbao at the first roundabout Fray Juan Kalec take a right onto Kastrexana etorbidea. I didn’t see any Camino signs, but my maps said that that is the correct street.

Since I wasted some much time, I decided to call a taxi as I was leaving Alonsotegui but the person answering the phone could not understand my pronunciation of that town. I asked a runner going past if he would call for me, which he did, but after about five minutes was told to call back later—not many folks around on a Sunday afternoon. Well I just had to walk the next 15 Kim’s, hoping to get to Güeñes in time for supper, etc. About 2 Kim’s later the runner appeared in his car and took me to the Hotel. People are really helpful here in Spain.

Today I was taking the 2b option to get to Villasana de Mena. Somehow I missed the split between 2a and 2b. After Arla Barrón I went past the Iglesia de Santa Cecilia and following the good Camino signage, through an industrial park. After crossing a major highway I realized that the road I was then on had a sign that said to Nava de Ordunte which didn’t seem correct. So I checked my track and saw that indeed I was not on the Olvidado. However, it seemed that I could follow the highway and sooner or later the Olvidado would cross it. So off I went, but I would not recommend it to anyone.
If you miss the split of 2a and 2b and get to the church of Santa Cecilia, turn back. Don’t continue thru the industrial park like I did. Just go back a little way where there was a right turn and look to the left—that’s where 2b goes according to maps that I looked at tonight.

A bright spot in my confusion today, that once back on 2b stopped for “ menu del dia” at Bar/Hotel Don Pablo in Mercadillo which was very good. Hotel Foramontanos will be closed from the first to the tenth of September.

You are tenacious!! buen camino; Henny

 

[Sue127]

Started the Olvidado on Sunday, August 29. The Olvidado and the Norte share the same directions for a few miles. I never did see the Devil’s Bridge and just kept following the great signage. I finally realized after checking my track that I was not on the Olvidado. Some nice folks kept insisting that I continue until I came to an alberque but I turned around to head backwards on the Norte. (It’s hard going backwards because signs are missed.). After about 3.5 hours in the wrong direction I found the correct road for the Olvidado. Just as the Caminos leave Rio de Bilbao at the first roundabout Fray Juan Kalec take a right onto Kastrexana etorbidea. I didn’t see any Camino signs, but my maps said that that is the correct street.

Since I wasted some much time, I decided to call a taxi as I was leaving Alonsotegui but the person answering the phone could not understand my pronunciation of that town. I asked a runner going past if he would call for me, which he did, but after about five minutes was told to call back later—not many folks around on a Sunday afternoon. Well I just had to walk the next 15 Kim’s, hoping to get to Güeñes in time for supper, etc. About 2 Kim’s later the runner appeared in his car and took me to the Hotel. People are really helpful here in Spain.

Today I was taking the 2b option to get to Villasana de Mena. Somehow I missed the split between 2a and 2b. After Arla Barrón I went past the Iglesia de Santa Cecilia and following the good Camino signage, through an industrial park. After crossing a major highway I realized that the road I was then on had a sign that said to Nava de Ordunte which didn’t seem correct. So I checked my track and saw that indeed I was not on the Olvidado. However, it seemed that I could follow the highway and sooner or later the Olvidado would cross it. So off I went, but I would not recommend it to anyone.
If you miss the split of 2a and 2b and get to the church of Santa Cecilia, turn back. Don’t continue thru the industrial park like I did. Just go back a little way where there was a right turn and look to the left—that’s where 2b goes according to maps that I looked at tonight.

A bright spot in my confusion today, that once back on 2b stopped for “ menu del dia” at Bar/Hotel Don Pablo in Mercadillo which was very good. Hotel Foramontanos will be closed from the first to the tenth of September.

Enjoy your adventure. Stay safe. Buen camino

 

[Fred Gaudet]

I’ve learned how to expand Enders app and can now follow the Camino whichever way it turns. But leaving Villasana de Mena I was still learning. (Coffee in bars and bakery shop open by 7:30). Took me about three hours to get way out of town, even with the app were three potentials to go on. Never say a Camino sign or arrows until alternative b joined back up with a. Then arrow, fresh water from gentleman at junction and finally a metal Camino Olvidado sign, which can be hard to see if brush covering the area.

Did go to the ermita San Bernabe but went around the long way, not knowing/remembering the short cut from Qusicedo. I was about an hour and a half past my ticket time. Peregrina2000 you tube link gives a great overview.

On the way back to Quintanilla del Rebollar, there is a great cafe just past Cueva. The next morning went back to ermita ticket office and from there went on the 2+ hour guided tour of Cueva Palomera. If you never been into a deep cave this is a good opportunity.

Didn’t get lost anymore except for maybe a few minutes. Cafe Monica in Soncillo had a good Menu del Diá. Going out of Soncillo is a road walk for a few miles and no good signs pointing the way—had to ask a bar man. Staying in Reinosa since I am planning to see Juliobriga and the Domus romana before going to Olea.

From Arija there’s 20 kms. of road walk. Hard to get lost on the road!

 

[Fred Gaudet]

Went to the urgent care hospital in Reinosa with swollen, red, and warm ankles. Since I had”dermatitis abuse estasis venous” the doctor gave me a small steroid drink, some cream, and instructions to teepee my legs up and sometimes in old water, and specifically to take a taxi to Olea, as well as Aguilar de Campoo, which I did.

After three days of rest starting walking again, but revised the distance down to ensure everything still ok. Stopped in Salinas de Pisuega, staying at the Molina de Pisuega.
Today went on to Cervaca de Pisuega stopping to see the hermitage of San Vicente. Have adjusted my daily schedules so as not to go to many kilometers until I’m sure legs will be okay.

Couple warnings/corrections.
After Matamorisca, about km 11.8 just as crossing a paved road, there are two yellow arrows on a sign. The big arrow points left down the paved road—don’t go left. Head straight onto the dirt road.

While leaving Barcenilla de Pisuega just before the church, there is a yellow arrow pointing down a paved road. The Camino instead goes onto a dirt road following the signs for the “Natural” trails

 

[Fred Gaudet]

For stage 9, after leaving Cervera crossing a River and turning left onto a secondary highway, the trail to the right is not marked and hard to see. It leaves the road onto a brushy, grassy trail before 1 km on the road. It doesn’t look like a trail only a path that has some grass trampled down. After 45 minutes or so, the Camino crosses the main highway and onto dirt roads.

In Santibañez de la Pena, Bar Mylo has three rooms. A single was 30euros and breakfast was help yourself to coffee and sweets.

In stage 13b, el Canto del Gallo in Ranedo de Curueño is closed according to the women on a phone call.

 

[Fred Gaudet]

In Guardo I couldn’t see any signs/arrows for 10b. Used Ender’s to get me in the right direction. When got onto a small dirt road outside the city, it took me to a big gully, so back to the highway for a kilometer or so. In Velilla del Rio Carrión. Bar Stop open at 6:30 on a Sunday. The Tamaric Fountains were dry. Death within a week, according to Pliny the Elder? Hope not, but my cell phone died for about five hours a few days later but somehow, maybe miraculously, came back to life. Again the Ender,s guide brought me right back to the hidden forest trails and had no trouble going around the old coal mine.

Good walk over the mountains and down though Caminayo into Morogovejo where I was going to call a taxi. No cell connection with Vodafone. A man who I had asked which way to go in Caminayo stopped as I was walking down the highway with my thumb out and drove me to Puente Almuhey.

Hotel Rio Cae had breakfast at seven, included in the price, but not enough. Stopped an a different bar about a block away and had tortilla potato.

The Santuary of Our Lady of la Velilla, in Stage 11, was opening at 11 on weekdays, but is now closed except for some occasions. Missed it by one day.

Leaving Cistierna, took the road walk to miss the wet walk up the hillsides. Blowing fog up higher. At La Devesa a man walked me part way to Santa Colombia where I stayed at the Hotel Monasterio de Ara-Mada. Great place. Supper was excellent and large breakfast included in the price.

Quick walk to Boñar where I’m taking a half-zero day. Staying at Hostal Nisi on the second floor with the other homeless folks. Went to lunch at the hostal where there were a number of homeless-looking folks eating and going back to the stairs in the hostal.

Tomorrow take the train to Valdepiélago which is close to the place I was going to stay in Ranedo de Curueño but the El Canto de Gallo is closed. My reasoning for a half-zero day in Boñar.

 

[Fred Gaudet]

Took the train from Boñar but got off too early so had more kilometers to walk. In Vegacervera stayed at Alberque/Hostal Valporequero. Had a dinner and they let me have an earlier breakfast then scheduled.

The steep descent after Villa de Puerto was steep, but not that bad since I always had three points of contact using my hiking sticks.

The new alberque in La Magdalena is nice—only person there. It’s actually in Canales, just across the river. The bar just inside La Magdalena helped manage the alberque and would provide food for breakfast if wanted.

In Pandora, Resty,s wanted a two day minimum. The hotel was closed on Sunday so stayed at Aquas Frias in La Omañuela. For peregrinos a one night stay was ok. Breakfast included, but no where to eat. I didn’t want to eat at Resty’s cace in Pandora, so fix my own while waiting for washing machine to finish.

In Fasgar one needs to get the key box combo from Rosi. Her house is the first one in town. That day there was no hot water. Nothing open althou cafe was opened on Sunday. Had no phone/internet connection with my Vodafone SIM card until the next day almost in Igüeña.

Alberque very new. Only person there except for a couple who had a room upstairs. Meal in bar and they fixed some tortilla slices for breakfast.

Took a taxi to Bembibre and then back in the morning. Walked through Congosto to Almázcara for the next night. Then on towards Ponferrada.

Stopped at the church Santo Tomás de las Ollas. Sign on door says to call #7 which is on street right next to the church. The elderly lady answered my knocks and open the church and turning on the lights. What a great visit, although I didn’t understand everything but enough. There is still Mass in the church on Sundays, if I remember, around 10:30 or 11.

The end of the Camino Olvidado for me. Tomorrow I begin the Camino Invierno.