LIVE from the Camino On my way tomorrow, part 2

[LTfit]

As I've finished the Olvidado from Bilbao to Ponferrada (see here if interested:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/on-my-way-tomorrow.81402/page-2#post-1156711)
I thought I'd start a new thread for my Invierno. Although the first three days are wonderful (oh Las Médulas!), I walked to A Rúa 8 years ago and given time constraints decided not to repeat this time around.

There seems to be several Forum members walking right now so I'm not sure that I'll be able to add anything of interest but only time will tell

I'm hoping to walk the following stages. Km per Gronze:

July 6 A Rúa - Quiroga 26.5 km
July 7 Quiroga - Monforte 35.4 km
July 8 Monforte - Chantada 30.4 km
July 9 Chantada - Rodeiro 25.4 km
July 10 Rodeiro - Silleda 37.6 km
July 11 Silleda - Outeiro (23.9 km) or SdC 40.6 km
July 12 SdC or Outeiro - SdC
July 13 my birthday in SdC

Silleda on is familiar to me as I've walked the Sanabrés three times. Once I stayed in Outeiro and the other two times I continued on to SdC.

At this point I've got reservations in San Martín Pinario for July 11 & 12. I'll try again to see if someone has cancelled as there was no room on the pilgrim floor on July 13th.

Off tomorrow!

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, LT. I was with you the last time you headed out on the Invierno! I remember that I got tied up with the seminarian and we first went to find some old church ruins and then spent a long time in Villavieja talking to the owner of the Casa Rural. I think you had fallen asleep by the time we got to Las Médulas.

A few little bits. The lookouts over the Miño River have been refurbished. They are called Miradouro/Mirador do Cabo do Mundo I and II. Beautiful views over the iconic horseshoe bend in the river. There’s a little church in Fión that has a romanesque apse and the typical gallego tower. Peaceful setting. Since you probably won’t want to walk the 6 km loop, I bet google maps can get you out to the miradouro and back to the camino without backtracking if you are so inclined. Some forum member did that recently (I think it was @mla1???) but I can’t find the post.

I don’t think you’ve stayed in Dornelas and that would be a treat. Since you’ve walked the end part a couple of times, that would be a nice way to mix it up a bit. It’s 12 after Silleda, though, so not a great fit for your stages.

And I don’t know if you’ve ever walked up to the top of Pico Sacro but with all its connection to Santiago, you might want to add a few kms and go up. WestKirsty has good directions and links to a wikiloc trail.

Hoping that San Martín opens up for you.

 

[LTfit]

Buen camino, LT. I was with you the last time you headed out on the Invierno! I remember that I got tied up with the seminarian and we first went to find some old church ruins and then spent a long time in Villavieja talking to the owner of the Casa Rural. I think you had fallen asleep by the time we got to Las Médulas.

I remember those first few days well before I headed to A Gudiña. We took a wonder walk in spectacular weather around Las Médulas!

A few little bits. The lookouts over the Miño River have been refurbished. They are called Miradouro/Mirador do Cabo do Mundo I and II. Beautiful views over the iconic horseshoe bend in the river. There’s a little church in Fión that has a romanesque apse and the typical gallego tower. Peaceful setting. Since you probably won’t want to walk the 6 km loop, I bet google maps can get you out to the miradouro and back to the camino without backtracking if you are so inclined. Some forum member did that recently (I think it was @mla1???) but I can’t find the post.

Good to know.

I don’t think you’ve stayed in Dornelas and that would be a treat. Since you’ve walked the end part a couple of times, that would be a nice way to mix it up a bit. It’s 12 after Silleda, though, so not a great fit for your stages.

And I don’t know if you’ve ever walked up to the top of Pico Sacro but with all its connection to Santiago, you might want to add a few kms and go up. WestKirsty has good directions and links to a wikiloc trail.

Great!

Hoping that San Martín opens up for you.

Actually they just confirmed my reservation

 

[peregrina2000]

And @jpflavin1 just WhatsApped me that when he got to Quiroga, he called the number on the door. He had to wait till 2:30 for the hospitalero to show up but sent a picture of a nice bathtub (!!) and said it was 10€.

If you are in Quiroga at mealtime, I highly recommend the Restaurante Casa Aroza. It was first recommended to me by a Cuban woman working in some sort of shop there, and I have recommended it a million times. Never heard a bad word. But I’m not sure how a non-meat-eater will do there.

 

[LTfit]

And @jpflavin1 just WhatsApped me that when he got to Quiroga, he called the number on the door. He had to wait till 2:30 for the hospitalero to show up but sent a picture of a nice bathtub (!!) and said it was 10€.

I guess I'll decide on the day itself depending on time I arrive. If I need to wait several hours I'll just head to the Hostal.

If you are in Quiroga at mealtime, I highly recommend the Restaurante Casa Aroza. It was first recommended to me by a Cuban woman working in some sort of shop there, and I have recommended it a million times. Never heard a bad word. But I’m not sure how a non-meat-eater will do there.

Not ideal thus far (i.e. on the Olvidado) but una ensalada mixta usually works.

 

[Tom Cartwright]

And @jpflavin1 just WhatsApped me that when he got to Quiroga, he called the number on the door. He had to wait till 2:30 for the hospitalero to show up but sent a picture of a nice bathtub (!!) and said it was 10€.

If you are in Quiroga at mealtime, I highly recommend the Restaurante Casa Aroza. It was first recommended to me by a Cuban woman working in some sort of shop there, and I have recommended it a million times. Never heard a bad word. But I’m not sure how a non-meat-eater will do there.

hi - are you referring to the Albergue in Quiroga? Walking it in Sept. Thanks

 

[LTfit]

Got into Quiroga late after a longer day than expected due to three stops!

In A Rúa I stayed at Pension Fabio which is about 750 meters from the center and the turn off for the Camino. It's on the main drag on the way out of town. I had a large double room with private bath for €20 (Gronze €24). The young guy at the reception told me that Bar Paco, 500 meters from the Pension and towards the Camino would open by 6.30. When I got there at 6.30 there was already another client. The owner said that she usually opens at 6.15. This is good news as I read in a recent thread that there is nothing open in A Rúa in the morning.


As I haven't been on the Invierno in 8 years and never past A Rúa, I didn't know what to expect (after all the planning I did for the Olvidado, I have done zero for the Invierno). My first impression is that there was quite some asphalt but luckily along quiet roads and that it was fairly noisy due to the highway which is never very far away. Maybe I'm extra sensitive now after 18 days on the Olvidado where it was TOTAL silence every single day! Otherwise there were lovely smells - pine trees, fruit trees (figs, plums, apples) and already eucalyptus!






All along the road there are wooden figures posted onto the trees. These are but a few of the many figures. Later in the hamlet there were more.





In the first hamlet Albaredos there is a donation stand with fruit and even a coffee machine. I tried to make a coffee but it came out cold but the tiny apple was delicious!



Above the church and above the entryway two keys and a plant (reborn entering the church) is a part that was chiseled away by disgruntled townsfolk.

In Montefurado I had a long stop. When passing through town I stopped to look up at the church. I surprised to see the door open. I was invited in by Marisol who gives tours Wednesday - Sunday. She works for the Oficina de Turismo and boy does she know her stuff! I was there for over an hour! The church is Baroque, quite unusual for this area. The stone has oxidized, therefore the brown color. The five retablos
ere commissioned by rich feudal noblemen who were so powerful that they didn't even take orders from the Obispo. There is even a throne in the front the the church for him! Marisol told me ever detail about every saint etc represented in the retablos (late 17th or 18th century?).

An interesting tidbit she told me is that there was some destruction here and there due to an uprising against the feudal noblemen.

Marisol also told me (this is for @peregrina2000 ) that Asún of A Rúa (who formally took in pilgrims including me) did the Camino from her home to Santiago in a special wheelchair. She forwarded to me a video of her Camino which I'll share later.

Marisol also explained to me and showed me gráfico de Ribeira Sacra, a way of painting the facade of homes. There are only 15 permanent residents in Montefurado.

My next stop was in Bendilló, a small hamlet about 10 km further on. Two ladies saw me and yelled to someone, hay una peregrina! In this hamlet of 8 (!) a guy has decided to open up his house and sell food and drinks. Of course quite illegal! I thought what the heck and had a café and cake. He is from the pueblo but lives already 30 years in Gijón. He and a friend are there till September 1st. I only had a one euro coin or a €20 bill so he had to go to one of the neighbors for change. He came back with two €5 bills and one €10 bill and asked if it was ok to keep the €5 . An expensive stop for Spanish standards but the guy made some money.

I didn't stop in Soldón by the river but there was a cabaña where you can buy drinks and ice cream. Probably snacks but I didn't take a look.

The last part through the woods and vineyards into Quiroga got you a bit away from the noise of trucks and cars of the highway which was nice.

Since I had already reserved a room in Hostal Quiper, I went there instead of checking out the albergue. I passed it I believe when I walked further into town to the Hostal.

I'm not a foodie so I won't be searching out restaurants but I had a lovely salad at La Botica a door down from Hostal Quiper. The outdoor sitting area was beautiful!

I'll post pictures later. Off to do some shopping. I saw a Día and was told there is also Familia.

 

[peregrina2000]

In Montefurado I had a long stop. When passing through town I stopped to look up at the church. I surprised to see the door open. I was invited in by Marisol who gives tours Wednesday - Sunday.

I’m surprised that she didn’t mention Casimiro, the wonderful camino character who does that little “ecological” food stand right before town. Did you see that? He lives in that big white house up on the left. I really hope that he is OK and that her failure to mention him doesn’t mean that something has happened to him. He’s at least 95 now and just a wonderful person.

 

[El Cascayal]

I’m surprised that she didn’t mention Casimiro

Casimiro, a true gentle man! Here sharing his home made cherry liqueur. His bodega, all ready for winter, and his Ecoloxico stand. Can never pass up an opportunity to post his picture! Anyone seen him lately?

 

[LTfit]

I’m surprised that she didn’t mention Casimiro, the wonderful camino character who does that little “ecological” food stand right before town. Did you see that? He lives in that big white house up on the left. I really hope that he is OK and that her failure to mention him doesn’t mean that something has happened to him. He’s at least 95 now and just a wonderful person.

She did ask if I saw him but he wasn't there when I went by but I took a peach and put a few coins in the box.

 

[peregrina2000]

She did ask if I saw him but he wasn't there when I went by but I took a peach and put a few coins in the box.

That’s good news. I don’t know how many more pilgrims will have the good luck to meet this wonderful man. I remember he told me his children were trying to get him to move, but he wouldn’t even consider it!

Asún of A Rúa (who formally took in pilgrims including me) did the Camino from her home to Santiago in a special wheelchair.

Wow. So fitting that someone who has done so much for the Camino de Invierno would get the opportunity to actually make the journey. You didn’t by any chance hear anything about her mother Asunción, did you?

 

[LTfit]

Wow. So fitting that someone who has done so much for the Camino de Invierno would get the opportunity to actually make the journey. You didn’t by any chance hear anything about her mother Asunción, did you?

No, she didn't know anything about her mother when I asked.

I just sent you the video Discamino of Asún's Camino via Facebook messenger. I know you don't ever use it but that's how Marisol sent it to me and the only way I could forward it to you.

 

[LTfit]

Quiroga - A Pobra do Brollón - Monforte de Lemos 37,5 km
(to Albergue Lemavo then Bar Rabeno)











What a beautiful day! As yesterday, the day started with mist and 14 degrees but the sun quickly burned the mist and the sky was a bright blue.

The walk to A Pobra do Brollón was made up of two parts, a long gradual uphill of about 9 km through monte including areas which have clearly suffered from fires - seared trees or none at all or just stumps. There are signs of new plant life but it will takes many years to recover. Much of the Camino is on roads of asphalt or dirt.

The second part was a long gradual downhill to A Pobra do Brollón, towards the end meandering through several small hamlets. The new albergue in A Pobra is not yet open but it is certainly a nice small town to stay in. I took advantage to have an iced coffee before heading out to Monforte de Lemos and the last 12 km.

Except for one long uphill (I passed a cyclist!) the walk to Monforte was easy going. There must have been a mountain bike race because at least 30 cyclists passed me over a period of 2+ hours. Bike bells must be very expensive cause no one has one
They were all very polite though and said hola and Buen Camino when they passed.

Right before entering Monforte you see a mojón, actually two. One to the right 'alternativo' and one to the left. I decided to take the alternative route as it was supposed to be prettier. Shortly after that there was a sign to Albergue Lemavo to the left. It's about 800 meters on, not in the center but on the other side of the railroad tracks.

The albergue owner is very pleasant and...there are several other pilgrims! I haven't seen them yet as they went out to lunch. After showering I walked to the center and stopped at Bar Rabeno for my traditional post-walk clara. I wasn't expecting much for a vegan but lo and behold they had croquetas de calabaza. The portion was so huge that I have a doggie bag to take back to the albergue.

I'll post pictures later. Now off to Gadis supermarkt.

 

[LTfit]

And the last pictures into Monforte de Lemos:




My huge croquetas de calabaza.

I walked about town until 5 p.m. when the Gadis supermarkt opened up. Now back at the albergue and I've still not talked to anyone because they are all resting in bed. Time for me to rest a bit too, my Garmin clocks in with 41.2 km today!

 

[El Cascayal]

my Garmin clocks in with 41.2 km today!

. !

 

[LTfit]

. !

I wandered around Monforte after the 37 km from Quiroga.

 

[LTfit]

@peregrina2000 @El Cascayal and any other Invierno aficionad@s,
what's your take on tomorrow into Chantada? My right knee did well today but that's because the ascents and descents were long but very gradual. Tomorrow is not! It would be a first but would it be wiser to take the road (although longer)? I don't want to be stuck descending the calzada romana with a painful knee

 

[El Cascayal]

LTfit, last November, I did a short Invierno beginning in Diomondi, short first stage into Chantada just to enjoy the new Albergue and the Ribeira Sacra. (Beautiful Albergue where you need to bring in dinner & breakfast, available microwave & fridge). I found the descent of los codos de Belesar and over the Miño and up over the Roman road with a stop at Via Romana winery so incredibly pleasant & so much better than doing this at the end of a 30+ km day, with my tongue hanging all the way out . Personally, I would not miss this marvelous portion by walking on the road. Poles are a must for me.
PS: just looked at my pictures & the descent is a combination of dirt trail among the Roman stones and the upscent is the big boulders.

 

[LTfit]

LTfit, last November, I did a short Invierno beginning in Diomondi, short first stage into Chantada just to enjoy the new Albergue and the Ribeira Sacra. (Beautiful Albergue where you need to bring in dinner & breakfast, available microwave & fridge). I found the descent of los codos de Belesar and over the Miño and up over the Roman road with a stop at Via Romana winery so incredibly pleasant & so much better than doing this at the end of a 30+ km day, with my tongue hanging all the way out . Personally, I would not miss this marvelous portion by walking on the road. Poles are a must for me.
PS: just looked at my pictures & the descent is a combination of dirt trail among the Roman stones and the upscent is the big boulders.

I know, I've heard that it's beautiful and I always use poles, no matter the terrain.

Normally I wouldn't bat an eye but after the 800 meter stony descent on my last day on the Olvidado, my knee is not happy on steep descents.

 

[El Cascayal]

after the 800 meter stony descent on my last day on the Olvidado, my knee is not happy on steep descents.

I really didn’t find the descent as harrowing as described. Picture 3 above shows dirt path next to the rocks, which was plentiful. It does require concentration. If you continue on the road that passes in front of San Paio de Diomondi it will descend but on asphalt. If you have the time, staying in Diomondi and walking this stretch well rested in the morning is so much better than tacking it on as the end of the day. I was carrying my full pack and had pretty bad bone issues at the time and there was no suffering or damage. Buen Camino ! Aymarah

 

[LTfit]

I really didn’t find the descent as harrowing as described. Picture 3 above shows dirt path next to the rocks, which was plentiful. It does require concentration. If you continue on the road that passes in front of San Paio de Diomondi it will descend but on asphalt. If you have the time, staying in Diomondi and walking this stretch well rested in the morning is so much better than tacking it on as the end of the day. I was carrying my full pack and had pretty bad bone issues at the time and there was no suffering or damage. Buen Camino ! Aymarah

Thanks! I guess I'll give it a go. Of course doing it in the morning, well rested, would be smarter but I need to continue on to Chantada.

 

[peregrina2000]

@peregrina2000 @El Cascayal and any other Invierno aficionad@s,
what's your take on tomorrow into Chantada? My right knee did well today but that's because the ascents and descents were long but very gradual. Tomorrow is not! It would be a first but would it be wiser to take the road (although longer)? I don't want to be stuck descending the calzada romana with a painful knee

Well, it is steep, in fact it is steeper than the descent from San Juan de la Peña, which did my knee in on the Aragonés. But I think it’s shorter. I have walked the Invierno three times, doing that descent to the Miño without incident, though, so it’s got to be more than just the incline that we need to pay attention to.

Compare the profile on these two tracks for a better idea.

Camino Invierno Etapa 5 Monforte-Chantada

Camino Invierno Etapa 5 Monforte-Chantada Hiking trail in Monforte de Lemos, Galicia (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Miércoles 16 de Marzo de 2016 Etapa 5 Monforte-Chantada. Salgo de Monforte por la carretera LU-P 3204, la cual la sigo durante 11 km. hasta...

www.wikiloc.com

Ena - Botaya - Monasteri Nou i Vell Sant Juan de la Peña - Santa Cruz de la Serós - Santa Cilia de Jaca

Ena - Botaya - Monasteri Nou i Vell Sant Juan de la Peña - Santa Cruz de la Serós - Santa Cilia de Jaca Hiking trail in Ena, Aragón (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

The road option is unrealistic in my opinion. 14 km from Diomondi to Chantada as opposed to 8 on the camino. Taking the road from Diomondi involves a huge loop down to the river, taking another bridge across the river, and walking most of the way on the highway — whereas the camino goes straight down and then straight up. Screen shot here.



Since the question is a bit open-ended, I will jump into the area of unsolicited advice (which I am certain you will ignore ) and say that maybe you should consider walking just to Diomondi tomorrow and then Chantada or Vilaseco the day after that. Use some of that extra time you have to break it up. Tomorrow would be essentially a rest day for your knee, you could do the little loop to the mirador (easy to do without much descent at all if you limit yourself to the mirador and foreget about the church), and you could enjoy the albergue in Diomondi AND get to go inside the church. Next day tackle the descent starting out fresh.

Buen camino, LT, hoping it goes well no matter what you decide to do.

 

[CaroleH]

And @jpflavin1 just WhatsApped me that when he got to Quiroga, he called the number on the door. He had to wait till 2:30 for the hospitalero to show up but sent a picture of a nice bathtub (!!) and said it was 10€.

If you are in Quiroga at mealtime, I highly recommend the Restaurante Casa Aroza. It was first recommended to me by a Cuban woman working in some sort of shop there, and I have recommended it a million times. Never heard a bad word. But I’m not sure how a non-meat-eater will do there.

Yay for the albergue in Quiroga...open after all.... and yay for Casa Aroza.

 

[CaroleH]

Marisol also told me (this is for @peregrina2000 ) that Asún of A Rúa (who formally took in pilgrims including me) did the Camino from her home to Santiago in a special wheelchair. She forwarded to me a video of her Camino which I'll share later.

Love to see Asun's video... I also stayed with her in 2018 and she was extra kind when I sprained an ankle, with 'magic' treatment and a speedy car ride down the mountain to Quiroga.
I'll try and visit Asun in Sept, though I'll be with 3 other peregrinas.

Casimiro, a true gentle man! Here sharing his home made cherry liqueur. His bodega, all ready for winter, and his Ecoloxico stand. Can never pass up an opportunity to post his picture! Anyone seen him lately?

.. and look out for Casimiro too.

@LTfit ... you are one super walker! We'll be doing much shorter stages, hopefully.
Maybe I'lll get to be that eccentric 80 yr old walking caminos yet!!

 

[Theatregal]

Yes, very steep at times but I don't recall slippery stony which I find toughest on my knees. Large uneven stones set securely in the path so slow and steady with my poles, made it very doable for me. Once you reach the descent through the terraced vineyards, the path becomes softer with compact dirt and grassy areas as you descend into Belesar. I had to keep stopping only because the view was so stunning! Before crossing the bridge into the village, to the right is a riverside bar by the marina, that if open, would be a nice place to rest before beginning the ascent on the other side of the bridge. It wasn't open when I went through but I think @VNwalking had luck! Wonderful thinking back on this day.
Hope it's a lovely fair-weather day for you @LTfit !

 

[dick bird]

Don't remember it being that steep, but do remember the spectacular views of the Miño. Actually the walk up the other side was harder going if easier on the knees but relieved by the restaurant/vineyard halfway up.

 

[LTfit]

Thanks for all your comments and suggestions! It's raining here this morning in Monforte and it's time to leave after chatting for an hour over coffee with the owner of Albergue Lemavo.

 

[LTfit]

Today I can sum up by saying 'much ado about nothing'. Not to say that it was nothing or easy but rather that I worried too much beforehand. Truth be told, I didn't find either the descent or ascent difficult. Yes, there were wet stones on the way down but it was quite easy to find dirt covered with leaves on either side of the stone path where you had more sure footing. During the ascent I kept thinking, "is this it?". Much if it is in fact on tarmac. There are only two bits that are steeper with rocks.

The four Spanish pilgrims in the albergue last night made noise and put lights on at 22.30. I had been trying to sleep from 21.30 on. Then in the morning their telephones went off at 5.00. Sigh. They were out the door with ponchos on by 6.00 while I had coffee with the albergue owner sharing stories about owning one. Albergue Lemavo has only been open for a year. The house was her mother-in-law's who passed away. She and her husband then renovated the place.

I finally put my poncho on and left at 7.00. By 16 km I had caught up and passed the four Spaniards and haven't seen them yet (now almost 17.00) although I assume that they are staying here as I was told that 6 pilgrims reserved tonight at Albergue A Pousa do Asma.




Picture taking was not a priority when raining.
Cause it rained pretty much the entire way to Diomondi then at about 3/4 the way down to Belesar it miraculously stopped raining and the sun actually came out entering Chantada! What a view on the way down and when you finally reach the river looking up at the vineyards. Spectacular!

The nice, wet way down.


I never make selfies but this was my happy face when almost in Belesar when it stopped raining.






The albergue looks new and location is perfect. They even give you a towel! There is a Gadis and Eroski close by as well as lots of cafes/bars on the street. When I arrived in town I had my usual clara and was given pimientos de Padrón . My first this Camino. Me happy.

 

[LTfit]

Arrival in Chantada



The Albergue A Pousa do Asma



The kitchen is even well equipped and the shower has one of those huge rain heads (or whatever they're called).

Tomorrow to Rodeiro. Anything I need to know?

 

[El Cascayal]

Truth be told, I didn't find either the descent or ascent difficult. Yes, there were wet stones on the way down but it was quite easy to find dirt covered with leaves on either side of the stone path where you had more sure footing. During the ascent I kept thinking, "is this it?".

Yes!!!!! So glad you walked it! I was surprised how low the water level is crossing the rocks, every time I’ve walked over them it was a little scary and thrilling at the same time. Maika & Pousa do Asma, great place to stay.

 

[El Cascayal]

Tomorrow to Rodeiro. Anything I need to know?

Penasillas is a wonderful little town just prior to the ascent to Monte Faro. When you arrive to Penasillas, on your left there is a large cow shed, Ana is the owner. She graciously shows you her cows. Bar O Peto is a nice place for a café. There is another bar in Pendellos right on the Camino. Albergue Carpinteiras is modern and clean and comfortable with wonderful hospitaleros who have a bar downstairs. As you are leaving Rodeiro ask where Panaderia Jesus is. Great freshly baked bread and they welcome Peregrinos through their nondescript entrance.

 

[LTfit]

Penasillas is a wonderful little town just prior to the ascent to Monte Faro. When you arrive to Penasillas, on your left there is a large cow shed, Ana is the owner. She graciously shows you her cows. Bar O Peto is a nice place for a café. There is another bar in Pendellos right on the Camino. Albergue Carpinteiras is modern and clean and comfortable with wonderful hospitaleros who have a bar downstairs. As you are leaving Rodeiro ask where Panaderia Jesus is. Great freshly baked bread and they welcome Peregrinos through their nondescript entrance.

Thanks for the heads-up @El Cascayal ! I have reservations at Albergue Carpinteiras.

It's Sunday tomorrow. Should I bring food? Meaning will stores be closed?

 

[El Cascayal]

You can get a good breakfast at Carpinteiras, they open early for breakfast, lots of locals. Panadería Jesús is closed Sunday and opens Monday morning at 8 am according to their website. Taberna do Peto in Penasillas opens at 10 am on Sunday.

 

[peregrina2000]

Taberna do Peto in Penasillas opens at 10 am on Sunday.

If it’s still the same owners at the Taberna do Peto, they live right there and have told forum members that they will open up at any early but reasonable hour. Just knock on the door to the right. I have never done that, but maybe others have.

And I can’t believe there’s a panadería in all of Spain (at least a panadería where they actually make the bread) that isn’t up and running and willing to sell bread any time after dawn. VN always likes to point out that this Panadería Jesús is where the Spanish royal family gets their bread. That’s not an urban legend.

So glad you had good weather for crossing the river, it is really one of the prettier parts of the Invierno.

 

[LTfit]

You can get a good breakfast at Carpinteiras, they open early for breakfast, lots of locals. Panadería Jesús is closed Sunday and opens Monday morning at 8 am according to their website. Taberna do Peto in Penasillas opens at 10 am on Sunday.

Actually Carpinteiras offers breakfast as of 7:00 but owner (saludos de los dos!) said that Panadería Jesús will be open when I leave at 6.30. Plan is to walk to Silleda so I want to get an early start and have coffee in Lalín.

 

[LTfit]

Today July 9 Chantada - Rodeiro +/- 27 km (my Garmin says 31.2 km but that includes albergue to albergue)

Perfect weather today! It was cool this morning so I put on my fleece until way into the climb.






The bar was closed in Penasillas but I got a blessing from an elderly woman taking a paseo. She spoke to me in Gallego but it was quite clear that she was wishing me good health and happiness. Nice way to start the day!

I passed 3 Spanish pilgrims from Cáceres early on, the same ones from Albergue Lemavo in Monforte de Lemos. Last night they were in the other albergue in Chantada so in the end I had the entire albergue to myself! At €18 it is more expensive than most but the kitchen was impeccable and you received a towel and new fluffy blanket plus disposable sheets.

The scenery has changed drastically from vineyards to corn and grain fields. Farms, cows and sheep were the landscape after coming down off the monte. I made a silly mistake and missed the Ermita. At one point I saw several crosses but there was no sign pointing the way. Oh well.






You really feel tiny under those wind turbines! I've never been that close to one.

Although only 3 km from Rodeiro, I still stopped at Bar O Tecanto for a clara. They offered me a pincho with lomo. When I said that I didn't eat meat I was brought potato chips and olives. That was my breakfast at 12.30

Hostal/Albergue Carpentieras is about a 15 minute walk up from the roundabout so tomorrow I'll need to walk back down to pick up the Camino.

The group from Cáceres arrived several hours after me but have been given a separate room so I might, once again, have a room to myself.

 

[El Cascayal]

Panadería Jesús will be open when I leave at 6.30

Awesome! I bought some bread and carried some cheese, wonderful eats. It is pretty close, you hang a right down the hill from Carpinteiras.

 

[LTfit]

A few more pictures of the walk and of Hostal-Albergue Carpinteiras.



Recognition of the Camino de Invierno in 2016.

 

[laineylainey]

Got into Quiroga late after a longer day than expected due to three stops!

In A Rúa I stayed at Pension Fabio which is about 750 meters from the center and the turn off for the Camino. It's on the main drag on the way out of town. I had a large double room with private bath for €20 (Gronze €24). The young guy at the reception told me that Bar Paco, 500 meters from the Pension and towards the Camino would open by 6.30. When I got there at 6.30 there was already another client. The owner said that she usually opens at 6.15. This is good news as I read in a recent thread that there is nothing open in A Rúa in the morning.

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As I haven't been on the Invierno in 8 years and never past A Rúa, I didn't know what to expect (after all the planning I did for the Olvidado, I have done zero for the Invierno). My first impression is that there was quite some asphalt but luckily along quiet roads and that it was fairly noisy due to the highway which is never very far away. Maybe I'm extra sensitive now after 18 days on the Olvidado where it was TOTAL silence every single day! Otherwise there were lovely smells - pine trees, fruit trees (figs, plums, apples) and already eucalyptus!

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All along the road there are wooden figures posted onto the trees. These are but a few of the many figures. Later in the hamlet there were more.

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In the first hamlet Albaredos there is a donation stand with fruit and even a coffee machine. I tried to make a coffee but it came out cold but the tiny apple was delicious!

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Above the church and above the entryway two keys and a plant (reborn entering the church) is a part that was chiseled away by disgruntled townsfolk.

In Montefurado I had a long stop. When passing through town I stopped to look up at the church. I surprised to see the door open. I was invited in by Marisol who gives tours Wednesday - Sunday. She works for the Oficina de Turismo and boy does she know her stuff! I was there for over an hour! The church is Baroque, quite unusual for this area. The stone has oxidized, therefore the brown color. The five retablos
ere commissioned by rich feudal noblemen who were so powerful that they didn't even take orders from the Obispo. There is even a throne in the front the the church for him! Marisol told me ever detail about every saint etc represented in the retablos (late 17th or 18th century?).

An interesting tidbit she told me is that there was some destruction here and there due to an uprising against the feudal noblemen.

Marisol also told me (this is for @peregrina2000 ) that Asún of A Rúa (who formally took in pilgrims including me) did the Camino from her home to Santiago in a special wheelchair. She forwarded to me a video of her Camino which I'll share later.

Marisol also explained to me and showed me gráfico de Ribeira Sacra, a way of painting the facade of homes. There are only 15 permanent residents in Montefurado.

My next stop was in Bendilló, a small hamlet about 10 km further on. Two ladies saw me and yelled to someone, hay una peregrina! In this hamlet of 8 (!) a guy has decided to open up his house and sell food and drinks. Of course quite illegal! I thought what the heck and had a café and cake. He is from the pueblo but lives already 30 years in Gijón. He and a friend are there till September 1st. I only had a one euro coin or a €20 bill so he had to go to one of the neighbors for change. He came back with two €5 bills and one €10 bill and asked if it was ok to keep the €5 . An expensive stop for Spanish standards but the guy made some money.

I didn't stop in Soldón by the river but there was a cabaña where you can buy drinks and ice cream. Probably snacks but I didn't take a look.

The last part through the woods and vineyards into Quiroga got you a bit away from the noise of trucks and cars of the highway which was nice.

Since I had already reserved a room in Hostal Quiper, I went there instead of checking out the albergue. I passed it I believe when I walked further into town to the Hostal.

I'm not a foodie so I won't be searching out restaurants but I had a lovely salad at La Botica a door down from Hostal Quiper. The outdoor sitting area was beautiful!

I'll post pictures later. Off to do some shopping. I saw a Día and was told there is also Familia.

Loved those painted characters on the trees last year and the lovely Pilgrim station (including seat!) in Albaredos. Wondered if the forest paintings were a relative of Banksy, of course not!!

 

[LTfit]

Awesome! I bought some bread and carried some cheese, wonderful eats. It is pretty close, you hang a right down the hill from Carpinteiras.

As ordered







I wandered back.down to the roundabout and was looking all around for the Panadería . I was their delivery vans but not the despacho. It was 6.30 at the time. A neighbor saw me and asked what I was looking for. He took me around the corner in an alley and there it was! The lights were off but then one came on the first floor and and Ana came to the window. The man yelled up, "Esta señora quiere pan!". Five minutes later she opened up for me and explained that on Mondays they open a bit later. I apologized of course but explained that her bread had been highly recommended to me.

The place smelled wonderful and it looked delicious but how to carry? Luckily she had a few small round breads that fit perfectly into my backpack . Very expensive of course - 83 eurocents! I only had a one euro coin and I told her just to keep it, after all, she opened up especially for me. No way! She went to find her little caja and gave me change.

Now in Lalín having coffee. I want to find the Oficina de Turismo to get that beautiful stamp before heading out to Silleda.

 

[laineylainey]

Arrival in Chantada

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The Albergue A Pousa do Asma
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The kitchen is even well equipped and the shower has one of those huge rain heads (or whatever they're called).

Tomorrow to Rodeiro. Anything I need to know?

I loved Chantada and the Albergue. There is another one Dpaso? When I walked a young Korean stayed there. It has sleeping pods and is very modern, but he mentioned the pods were not very comfortable, but then it is always a personal thing, one person's hard mattress is another's joy! I found the descent to Belesar, though believe it or not I took the wrong path and ended up on the hill walking through vineyards! Also the worst part of the ascent to Chantada was the final bit and thankfully although a bit steep and narrow, it was relatively short. The reward I thought was the town of Chantada itself. Loved it. Although I did have a problem accessing the Albergue beacuse I hadn't downloaded the app to get the code. I just like normal keys!!
Really enjoying your posts and photos @LTfit, thank you.

 

[LTfit]

So here I am in Silleda, one day out of Santiago (if you're LT).

Rodeiro - Lalín - Silleda 38.11 km (way more including a few detours in Lalín and shopping, in fact now my Garmin says 44.1 km)

Today was a long paseo, very pleasant although this morning it took 2 hours before I took off my fleece and my fingers were numb! Afternoon temperature was about 28c which is good since there is much talk of the heatwave (the guys from Cáceres watched TV last night in the albergue).

The 4 guys + Rebecca from Madrid woke up again at 5.00 and were off by 6.00. I waited till it was light and headed to Panadería Jesús which I reported above. By 6.45 I was on my way. Nice rolling hills, fields and farms for 22 km till you reach Lalín. In fact it seemed like you would never arrive as the Camino take you first to Lalín Arriba then back down.





Hard to see but there are two sleepy dogs under the hórreo.





I really liked Lalín. Found a great place right on the Camino in the center of town for coffee and tiny napolitanas which they give you along with your coffee. I had heard that you could get a special sello of wax and I was under the impression that it was at the Oficina de Turismo. Wrong! I wandered around to find the office but they told me that it was the Camino Amigos group that did that . Ok, back down to the center of town. In fact the office of the Amigas was about 100 meters from the café I was sitting at but only opens at 12.00 and I arrived in town at about 11.15. By the time I found the amigos office, Daniel had opened up.




What a surprise, I don't remember where or when but I recognized Daniel! He is only 50 but started walking Caminos in the late 90's.
I chatted with him for at least 30 minutes while he meticulously added a page to my credencial to accommodate the FOUR stamps that he gave me, two with wax! You could tell that he enjoyed this immensely. He works at night and opens the office in the afternoon but always leaves his telephone number in the window in case someone needs a stamp and he is napping.

All in all I was in Lalín almost 2 hours. After my meeting with Daniel, I went back to the same café for another coffee. My excuse of course was that I had another 17 km to go without services.

Leaving Lalín you follow a Paseo Fluvial for quite some time. It was nice and peaceful. The rest of the walk to Silleda was the same. What I don't understand though is how I completely forgot this part of the Sanabrés (Invierno and Sanabrés meet up in A Laxe) which I have previously walked in three occasions!!! Except for the Xunta albergue in A Laxe I don't remember anything of the walk to Silleda. The last time was 8 years ago but still.

I'm staying in Albergue Trabazo which has been open for a year. For €14 you get perfectly laundered white cotton sheets and a towel. There are new blankets too but that won't be needed tonight. The albergue also has a washer and dryer and a kitchen with a fridge and microwave. There is a Froiz around the corner for grocery shopping.

I'm alone one again. The Cáceres crew were planning on staying in A Laxe (I passed them early on in the morning).

Of interest to note (and maybe I should make a thread about this in the VdlP/Sanabrés forum?) is that according to the young man who owns the albergue, there are fewer and fewer walking the Sanabrés because of problems in Castro Dozón. According to him the ayuntamiento is being restored and so they have moved into the albergue. That is the reason it has been closed since last year. This creates a real problem for pilgrims unless you choose to walk via Oseira (which I did on two of the three occasions). He believes that the albergue will not reopen when the work on the town hall is finished because the Amigos association wants to re-route the Sanabrés so that it goes through Lalín which it does not officially do. Political reasons once again. I didn't notice at the time, but he pointed out to me on my credencial that one of the stamps says "Camino de Invierno E Sanabrés Lalín". But if you stay in Lalín you do not sleep in Silleda. The albergue owner said that 75% of his clients are those walking the Invierno and only 25% the Sanabrés. It will be interesting to see if the statistics are indeed down for the Plata/Sanabrés.

I'll place some pictures of the albergue in another post.

 

[LTfit]

Albergue Trabazo





And my bread which I carried from Rodeiro. It was the smallest size Ana had for sale.


The four stamps from Lalín I mentioned.

 

[VNwalking]

I've been traveling and then down with a bug, so I missed all of this until now. What a fabulous thread! Thank you, @LTfit !

But I’m not sure how a non-meat-eater will do there.

So-so. I didn't know what everyone was
raving about TBH.

Asún of A Rúa (who formally took in pilgrims including me) did the Camino from her home to Santiago in a special wheelchair. She forwarded to me a video of her Camino which I'll share later.

Oh, my. Now she is in a wheelchair? May she be well!

(I passed a cyclist!)

How funny. I wish I could have seen that.

It wasn't open when I went through but I think @VNwalking had luck!

I did indeed. It was a gorgeous place to stop.

VN always likes to point out that this Panadería Jesús is where the Spanish royal family gets their bread

And your photos make my mouth water. I didn't have luck here - when I walked I didn't even know about it.

Happy walking today into Santiago!

 

[LTfit]

Yesterday June 11, last day of my Camino Olvidado + Camino de Invierno
Silleda - Outeiro - Santiago de Compostela +/- 41 km.
Garmin reports 58,333 steps and 48 km for the entire day. Good days work

It is always a bit surreal on the last day into Santiago. This last portion I've walked on four other occasions coming in from La Vía de la Plata/Sanabrés but it felt new. Maybe because it was 8 years ago!

The day flew by! Nothing was open in Silleda when I left so my first coffee stop was in Bandeira, 7 km further on. Coming into town I remembered where on three other occasions I had stopped because 1) only place open early morning and 2) because of the tiny juice glass and piece of pastry given with the coffee. Simple pleasures when walking.

Although now on a more trodden route, I only saw a first pilgrim leaving Dornelas, 5 km later, in fact three, then a huge group of young adults! It took me all the way to Ponte Ulla, 8 km later to pass the entire group of 80 (!) kids from start to finish!!! They were a group from all over Spain and would meet a similar group coming in from the Portuguese tomorrow in Santiago. They were all very polite and asked me where I was from and said Buen Camino when I passed by.

After Ponte Ulla and an obligatory coffee stop I only had 21 km left to Santiago. With only 10 km to go I stopped at Bar Rosende/Albergue Reina Lupa to meet up with a fellow Forum member @John Saxon who has been walking the Invierno after volunteering as a hospitalero in Ponferrada. We had made contact days before but he was initially two days ahead of me so meeting up was unlikely until I walked longer stages and he, shorter. I also needed to stop there to give my greetings to the owner Camiña from @El Cascayal. She was so excited and gave me a big hug! She had been warned that I would be stopping by then promptly video called her in the US to chat! What a hoot! One hour later I really did have to finally leave .

It is always exciting to get the first glimpse of the Cathedral and of course the final entry to the Plaza de Obradoiro. By this time it was 15.30 and was filled with pilgrims.

There has been talk of long lines at the Oficina de Peregrinos to receive your Compostela but I walked right in! I then headed to San Martin Pinario for a shower.

I have two days in Santiago before I head home. Time to relax and visit a few people.

Pictures to follow and a tally of my steps and km

 

[LTfit]

Yesterday on my first morning in Santiago I woke up to rain so I pulled out my poncho from the bottom of my backpack (only used it on four of 24 days). Luckily it stopped after a few hours.

While walking about town I bumped into the 80 young adults I met the day before between Dornelas and Ponte Ulla. A few said hello remembering me and I heard one say, "that's the woman from yesterday!".

I always enjoy wandering around the tiny alleyways and watching pilgrims coming in. Staying in San Martin Pinario is also always a delight. I have slept so well the last two nights!

Yesterday coming out of Froiz I bumped into Pattie Pie and she invited me to join her and Leigh Brennan both from the Camino Cafe Podcasts for a drink along with another American friend of theirs who is planning on moving to Santiago. The expat community here certainly seems to be growing!

Today is beautiful! I'm off to visit with Sybille and who knows what else I'll do on my last day in Santiago. I need to get a taxi to the airport at 5 a.m. Hopefully there will be someone else leaving from SMP too to share the cost.

And yes, the Botafumeiro did fly yesterday during the 12:00 mass.

 

[VNwalking]

Very well-deserved. Enjoy, @LTfit!

 

[LTfit]

Forgot to post pictures of my last stage:



My fourth time stopping here in Bandeira!








First sign of the Cathedral!

 

[LTfit]

And of course...



This is my final count from my Garmin smartwatch (June 16 arrived in Bilbao and June 13 this morning).



This is about 100 km above my total so I must walk in my sleep

 

[chinacat]

Happy Birthday!!

 

[WestKirsty]

Sounds like happy birthday wishes are in order! What a great journey and thank you for sharing it here. Who knows, maybe I'll follow you again one day and we can actually meet

Safe travels home!

 

[peregrina2000]

This is my final count from my Garmin smartwatch (June 16 arrived in Bilbao and June 13 this morning).

View attachment 152441

This is about 100 km above my total so I must walk in my sleep

Maybe since you walk faster than I do, you also manage to squeeze more kms into your stages, but my Olvidado plus Invierno came out to about 710 kms.

Seriously, though, does the Garmin watch record every step? If so, it seems like a reasonable amount of “surplus walking” to stores and restaurants, even the bathroom!

In any event, happy birthday and let’s hope that we get to see each other before our last time gets to be 10 years ago! (we’re at 8).

 

[VNwalking]

Very happy birthday to you, Lee! Such a wonderful place to spend it.

 

[LTfit]

Maybe since you walk faster than I do, you also manage to squeeze more kms into your stages, but my Olvidado plus Invierno came out to about 710 kms.

The official count (Wikiloc Olvidado+Gronze stages Invierno) came out to just under 700 km.

Seriously, though, does the Garmin watch record every step? If so, it seems like a reasonable amount of “surplus walking” to stores and restaurants, even the bathroom!

It does so that total means every step I made from morning till bedtime. I went back and wrote down everyday as I was curious to see how many "extra" km I do. In the end it comes out to 7 km extra per day.

In any event, happy birthday and let’s hope that we get to see each other before our last time gets to be 10 years ago! (we’re at 8).

Yes, please! It's 5:00 and on my way to the airport.


No visit to Santiago is complete without saying hello to the dos Marías

 

[VNwalking]

Buen viaje, Lee!

 

[LTfit]

Buen viaje, Lee!

Thank you my dear. Un abrazo.

 

[LTfit]

Now back at home. Thanks for all of you that joined me on my pilgrimage . Although I was practically 24 days alone, except for a few brief encounters, you all were there along side me.

 

[Theatregal]

It was wonderful to follow along with you Lee!

 

[Glenshiro]

Just caught up with this - you walked considerably longer stages than I did!

I remember Marisol at Montefurado - she had a sello, and there's a very useful water point right on the Camino.

I hope you got the Invierno on your certificate of distance - I found the Pilgrim Office quite impressed that I'd walked it.

Still doesn't seem very busy, though. Let's see what the rest of the year brings, but, at the moment, we could hold a veterans' meeting in a bus shelter.

 

[LTfit]

Just caught up with this - you walked considerably longer stages than I did!

I remember Marisol at Montefurado - she had a sello, and there's a very useful water point right on the Camino.

I hope you got the Invierno on your certificate of distance - I found the Pilgrim Office quite impressed that I'd walked it.

Still doesn't seem very busy, though. Let's see what the rest of the year brings, but, at the moment, we could hold a veterans' meeting in a bus shelter.

No, I've never gotten a distance certificate but I always pick up a Compostela, go to 12:00 mass and hug Santiago (you may again!) to thank him for my safe arrival

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Thanks for your reports! Planning to walk the Invierno next year. Your posts are very heplfull.

 

[SioCamino]

I've been traveling and then down with a bug, so I missed all of this until now. What a fabulous thread! Thank you, @LTfit !

So-so. I didn't know what everyone was
raving about TBH.

Oh, my. Now she is in a wheelchair? May she be well!

How funny. I wish I could have seen that.

I did indeed. It was a gorgeous place to stop.

And your photos make my mouth water. I didn't have luck here - when I walked I didn't even know about it.

Happy walking today into Santiago!

Hi all

I am walking just now and i thought you might like to know that i met María Asunción today - well she spotted me in the church square and insisted on bringing me to the info point (her house) to give me info, sellos, help and advice - and a coffee! She seemed well, using a mobility scooter/wheelchair to get around the streets.
She mentioned that she doesn't provide accommodation anymore unless emergency but keen to help and welcome pilgrims. She seemed hopeful of a new municipal albergue - she mentioned a meeting at the end of the month where agreements would be signed.

I asked to take a photo as i knew Invierno devotees were fond of her. (for some reason it's not giving me the option to thumbnail).
She seemed like a very special person so it was a pleasure to meet her.

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow, oh wow! Asún looks exactly, and I mean exactly, like she did in 2012 when I stayed with her and her mother in their home.

I remember she took me up to some little hamlet lost in the hills above A Rúa and talked to me about all sorts of mystical things.

Her mother had quite a story — she was the private chef in Paris for a Spanish diplomat, or a French minister, I can’t quite remember. But she told me that the only two places she had ever been were Paris and Galicia.

An article from 2017 reports her age as 93. If she is still alive, may she be in good health. I remember she told me how her daughter was trying to get her to stop walking down a steep hill to go to her garden. But she told me, in words much more beautiful than I can remember, how feeling the dirt in her hands every morning connected her to the universe and if she couldn’t do that, she would die much more certainly than whatever might happen with a fall on her way down to the garden.

Thanks so much for sharing this photo, @SioCamino, so great to remember these special camino people.

 

[LTfit]

Asun does indeed look the same as when I stayed with her in 2015. Thanks for sharing the photo @SioCamino .

May you have lots of other wonderful encounters!