LIVE from the Camino Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Santiago

[Juspassinthru]

What a wonderful day to start our Camino. We left OSM this morning at 09:00 in perfect weather, 50/10 when we left, 65/17 +/- in Sarrance with partly cloudy skies (pouring now at 21:00).

Words to the wise, do not be fooled by this short stage. The climb out of OSM is fairly steep and on paved roads. We found nothing open for food or drinks the entire way so plan accordingly. The last 5k is beautiful but difficult in the mud and caution should be taken, a slip to the left could easily put you in the fast flowing river below. It’s a beautiful walk, I’m sore as heck on day one.

I’ll try to update the trail outage on the upcoming stages.

 

[CatPhillips]

I'm glad the day went well and I appreciate the updates. I'm planning to walk this route next week.

How dangerous is it? You said: it's "difficult in the mud and caution should be taken, a slip to the left could easily put you in the fast flowing river below." Yikes!

Buen Camino!

 

[Juspassinthru]

I'm glad the day went well and I appreciate the updates. I'm planning to walk this route next week.

How dangerous is it? You said: it's "difficult in the mud and caution should be taken, a slip to the left could easily put you in the fast flowing river below." Yikes!

Buen Camino!

Reasonable caution, it’s currently wet, muddy and slick. It’s also beautiful. Go slow and be patient. At a few points the trail is narrow but not dangerous. Take your time.

 

[Juspassinthru]

The way is shut down as previously posted, we walked from Sarrance to Accous which is the last place you can catch a bus to Etsaut or Urdos. We’ll take a bus to Urdos tomorrow and walk the rest of the way up and over. Walking on the highway is probably not a good idea.

The walk from Sarrance to Accous is magnificent. Along the river most of the way or through pastures with great views of the Pyrenees.

Services in Bedous, slightly off the Camino/GR but close.

More tomorrow.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Before I fill you in on Day 3, Urdos - Candanchú, let me address some of the safety issues generally. The Chemin d’Arles is different than the Francés (point of reference only). From OSM to Somport right now, it’s very wet and slick with running streams going to a rapid river. It is demanding but not dangerous if you use reasonable precautions.

With the path being out, we finished our day in Accous, as far as we could get without having to road walk, don’t do it based on what I saw. We got a ride to Etsaut where we stayed the night.

We started Day 3 in Urdos which is about 15k BUT it’s a 1200m climb and as I mentioned, it is VERY wet with snow in places above 1300m. Obviously these are current conditions.

It was a hard day, I’m a fairly fit 67 year old man who’s done a fair share of hiking. Today was a stunning gorgeous 8+ on my personal difficulty scale. Had it been dry, maybe a 7. No services so plan accordingly. We started at 9:30 and finished around 3:30 including the walk into Candanchú. Be realistic about your abilities and enjoy.

Finally, if you want or need a place around Borce, I found a B&B in Etsaut, adjacent to Borce, La Maison d’en Bas. Paul the owner is great, speaks E, F & G. Serves a vegetarian dinner with notice. Contact at: paul@etsaut.com. If vegetarian is not what you’re looking for, La Randonneur is great.

So, hard, wet and wonderful day.

 

[Pilgrim 122]

Thank you for these updates, I'm in Toulouse so a couple of weeks behind you. It's really helpful to know what's ahead!

 

[Juspassinthru]

Thank you for these updates, I'm in Toulouse so a couple of weeks behind you. It's really helpful to know what's ahead!

Keep going, it’s tough but worth it.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Candanchú to Villanúa, the way out of Candanchú is muddy, wet and in some areas still covered in snow making the path almost impossible to follow out of the village. We did get back on the Way below and it’s a steep path with mud and water, very slick, be careful. Canfranc Estacion is not a haunted train station but a hotel. Nice bars/cafes across the street. The pilgrims bridge is still out, don’t be swayed by the torn warning tape, it’s busy road walking to Canfranc Pueblo, be careful. We walked through Canfranc about 12:30, did not see anything open. The good news is that the walk between Canfranc and Villanúa is glorious, easy walking. River, birds, some shade and the occasional snow covered peak. We walk to Jaca tomorrow, intentional short day, we hope to get out to the Monastery. I’ll include how we did it if we can get it done. In conclusion, great day to walk, mostly, weather has been exceptional, hopefully it will hold.

Forget to mention, if you stay in Canfranc Estacion, there is a self serve laundry. While I didn’t use it, I needed it.

 

[andycohn]

Candanchú to Villanúa, the way out of Candanchú is muddy, wet and in some areas still covered in snow making the path almost impossible to follow out of the village. We did get back on the Way below and it’s a steep path with mud and water, very slick, be careful. Canfranc Estacion is not a haunted train station but a hotel. Nice bars/cafes across the street. The pilgrims bridge is still out, don’t be swayed by the torn warning tape, it’s busy road walking to Canfranc Pueblo, be careful. We walked through Canfranc about 12:30, did not see anything open. The good news is that the walk between Canfranc and Villanúa is glorious, easy walking. River, birds, some shade and the occasional snow covered peak. We walk to Jaca tomorrow, intentional short day, we hope to get out to the Monastery. I’ll include how we did it if we can get it done. In conclusion, great day to walk, mostly, weather has been exceptional, hopefully it will hold.

Thanks for your posts. I'm enjoying re-living the walk. Just curious for the benefit of others following in your wake: when we crossed the pass last May 17, everything at Candanchu was locked up shut. Did you actually find a place open there? Did they indicate they'd stay open even after the end of ski season?

Ultreia!

 

[Juspassinthru]

Latest bus info

 

[Juspassinthru]

Thanks for your posts. I'm enjoying re-living the walk. Just curious for the benefit of others following in your wake: when we crossed the pass last May 17, everything at Candanchu was locked up shut. Did you actually find a place open there? Did they indicate they'd stay open even after the end of ski season?

Ultreia!

The lifts are currently still operating, don’t know what it will be like in 2 weeks, it’s really warming up.

 

[Vacajoe]

Canfranc Pueblo is a tiny, quiet little village. The albergue opens at 2pm every day from April through the end of October, while the two cafes have varying open hours depending upon the day and season. Sad to hear that the bridge is still out as that trail section after Estacion is beautiful.

 

[Juspassinthru]

We really enjoyed the path from Canfranc Pueblo to Villanúa.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Observations, OSM-Somport
Based on conditions in early April 24
1. Route is well marked, mostly red/white GR.
2. Far fewer services than you may be used to compared to the CF.
3. We found very few pilgrims accommodations open.
4. Prices were a bit higher than in Spain, food was generally better IMHO.
5. The section from OSM to Sarrance has a fair amount of road walking.
6. Signing in OSM is plentiful and confusing. Just get to Place St Pierre.
7. This route reminds me more of some of my backpacking experiences than say the CF.
8. It can be very wet and the conditions are variable.
9. This can be a difficult section, it was for me and you should be prepared for that.
10. The Gronze Guide as to stages should only be a suggestion, especially the final from Bedous-Somport. We started in Urdos due to the trail being out and it was still a 7 hour day.

I hope this helps, it’s only my observations and opinions and you know what they say about opinions…

 

[Pilgrim 122]

Thanks for the update this is really helpful especially the part going up and over into Spain

 

[Juspassinthru]

Thanks for the update this is really helpful especially the part going up and over into Spain

Yes, that was a day. Beautiful but happy it’s behind me.

 

[Former member 104756]

The section from OSM to Sarrance has a fair amount of road walking.

I love walking in France and have walked the Le Puy, the Piemont and the Arles. But for those considering walking in France - for me, OSM to Urdos is not even the best or representative of the Arles Way or of French caminos generally. As you say, in the latter stage lots of road walking

But you have a treat ahead of you on the Aragones! A wonderful path. Would love to be back there.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Villanúa - Jaca
Short day today which was good, my Camino limp has made its first appearance.

I’m glad we didn’t go all the way in to Jaca yesterday, the uninspiring walk today would have taken away from the great walk into Villanúa.

While you walk along the Ebro today, there’s industrial stretch that take away from it. There’s also a steep decent into Castelo de Jaca (knee loved that). As you come down that hill, several bars for second breakfast or whatever, watch the traffic.

As you approach Jaca, you’ll see an “official” way mark that say 5.5k to Jaca… it’s wrong so don’t despair, you’re almost there, one long climb and you’re in the city.

Cathedral and fortifications are cool, could not get to the Monastery, bus only in summer. Tried to hire a taxi but it was “maybe I can take you, maybe I can pick you up”, it wasn’t worth a possible 20k walk in the dark.

Very helpful Tourist Information office.

Heading west tomorrow.

 

[J Willhaus]

@Juspassinthru we took a cab up and then walked down to Santa Cruz de los Seros for the night. You might consider that tomorrow or you can walk all the way down to Santa Celia so you would still be on track. I would avoid the Camino route and take the road as the Camino route down from the monasteries is steep, rocky, and was very hard on old knees. At one point there is a cable attached to the cliff so you can "hang on" and keep yourself from falling of the edge.

We took about an hour at each of the two monasteries.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Thanks, we may consider that, good info.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Jaca - Arrés
The way out of Jaca is pleasant and mostly flat, some road walking but mostly on a path near the road. As you approach Sta. Cilia, there are wet parts but nothing like we’d seen days before.

The first break opportunity is Sta. Cilia, you have to walk into town to find a bar, did not see food but didn’t look too hard. For me, today, this was a long way.

About 10k to Arrés, a lot of walking on a road but finally a nice trek through the woods until you pop out at Puente La Reina de Jaca. We did not go into the town. You walk on a closed road most of the way to Arrés. The Gronze elevation map does not do justice to the climb up, sorry just a tease, I don’t want to spoil it.

On this day, I’d carry enough to eat for 2 days as I’m told there’s nothing on the way to Rueata.

We stayed at the Arrés Albergue, Jacelena (spelling) is the wonderful Hospetalera, for now, a real joy to meet. Small Hostel as well. The albergue is donativo and offers dinner and breakfast. Not many options, donate what you can honestly give.

Knee was better today, I’m happy and very tired, 30k tomorrow.

 

[Former member 104756]

Glad to read your knee has improved. It’s a pretty easy walk tomorrow, once you’re down the hill from Arres. Although it will add a little to your path, a stop In Artieda can make for a nice break esp if cafe open at the albergue. We enjoyed a good lunch there and a rest in the hammocks overlooking the view. And still arrived in Ruesta with plenty of time for washing clothes, showering, a rest etc before the communal dinner.

 

[J Willhaus]

There's nothing tomorrow until Artieda and there you have to climb up the hill away from the Camino for services. Take water as no potable water until then either. We were hospitaleros last summer at Arres. Loved this part of the Camino from Jaca to Sanguesa. Few towns and services though.

 

[J Willhaus]

There's nothing tomorrow until Artieda and there you have to climb up the hill away from the Camino for services. Take water as no potable water until then either. We were hospitaleros last summer at Arres. Loved this part of the Camino from Jaca to Sanguesa. Few towns and services though.

Jaca - Arrés
The way out of Jaca is pleasant and mostly flat, some road walking but mostly on a path near the road. As you approach Sta. Cilia, there are wet parts but nothing like we’d seen days before.

The first break opportunity is Sta. Cilia, you have to walk into town to find a bar, did not see food but didn’t look too hard. For me, today, this was a long way.

About 10k to Arrés, a lot of walking on a road but finally a nice trek through the woods until you pop out at Puente La Reina de Jaca. We did not go into the town. You walk on a closed road most of the way to Arrés. The Gronze elevation map does not do justice to the climb up, sorry just a tease, I don’t want to spoil it.

On this day, I’d carry enough to eat for 2 days as I’m told there’s nothing on the way to Rueata.

We stayed at the Arrés Albergue, Jacelena (spelling) is the wonderful Hospetalera, for now, a real joy to meet. Small Hostel as well. The albergue is donativo and offers dinner and breakfast. Not many options, donate what you can honestly give.

Knee was better today, I’m happy and very tired, 30k tomorrow.

Ok, wondering if you took the bike path on the road or the Goat Path up the hill? Bike path is very steep on the road!

 

[Juspassinthru]

With the construction, signage was difficult. We took the road.

 

[Scott Sweeney]

View attachment 167169What a wonderful day to start our Camino. We left OSM this morning at 09:00 in perfect weather, 50/10 when we left, 65/17 +/- in Sarrance with partly cloudy skies (pouring now at 21:00).

Words to the wise, do not be fooled by this short stage. The climb out of OSM is fairly steep and on paved roads. We found nothing open for food or drinks the entire way so plan accordingly. The last 5k is beautiful but difficult in the mud and caution should be taken, a slip to the left could easily put you in the fast flowing river below. It’s a beautiful walk, I’m sore as heck on day one.

I’ll try to update the trail outage on the upcoming stages.

In October 2018 we walked from Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to

View attachment 167169What a wonderful day to start our Camino. We left OSM this morning at 09:00 in perfect weather, 50/10 when we left, 65/17 +/- in Sarrance with partly cloudy skies (pouring now at 21:00).

Words to the wise, do not be fooled by this short stage. The climb out of OSM is fairly steep and on paved roads. We found nothing open for food or drinks the entire way so plan accordingly. The last 5k is beautiful but difficult in the mud and caution should be taken, a slip to the left could easily put you in the fast flowing river below. It’s a beautiful walk, I’m sore as heck on day one.

I’ll try to update the trail outage on

View attachment 167169What a wonderful day to start our Camino. We left OSM this morning at 09:00 in perfect weather, 50/10 when we left, 65/17 +/- in Sarrance with partly cloudy skies (pouring now at 21:00).

Words to the wise, do not be fooled by this short stage. The climb out of OSM is fairly steep and on paved roads. We found nothing open for food or drinks the entire way so plan accordingly. The last 5k is beautiful but difficult in the mud and caution should be taken, a slip to the left could easily put you in the fast flowing river below. It’s a beautiful walk, I’m sore as heck on day one.

I’ll try to update the trail outage on the upcoming stages.

In October of 2018 we started in Saint Maximin la Sainte Baume to Oloron Saint Marie and then to Pamplona and Saint Jean Peud de Port one of our favorite routes.

Oloron-Sainte-Marie

 

[Juspassinthru]

Arrés - Ruesta
Hum, don’t know my impression of this stage, it’s long and there’s a lot of road walking and other than the last 2-3k, not really picturesque. My opinion may be tempered by my aching knee but I don’t think so…much.

Very limited service's, Artieda offers food/drink but can be sporadic I’m told, we brought food and did not visit any villages until Ruesta.

The Albergue is nice, friendly and I hope the food is good because I’m hungry. Second thought, good is a bonus, I’d eat a flip-flop right now.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Ruesta - Sangüesa
Leaving Ruesta, you have a brief downhill before you begin a sustained uphill, took us over an hour, maybe an hour and a half. Not super steep just long, similar to above Orrison for those who started in St Jean.

Coming down the town of Undúes de Lerda is next, beware that the only bar/albergue is closed on Mondays. So, if you’re traveling on a Monday, no water, no food.

The final stretch is very Meseta like, long flat stretch and not much else, and yesterday it was quite warm for early April.

Trying to get to the Foz de Lumbier today, I’ll let you know how it goes.

Knee still very sore

 

[Vacajoe]

The final stretch is very Meseta like, long flat stretch and not much else

True, unless you take the alternative route through Javier on the way to Sanguesa. This adds only a few extra kms but takes you through a small village/tourist center and past Javier castle, birthplace of St Francis Xavier who helped found the Jesuit Order with St Ignatius Loyola. Worth the detour!

 

[trecile]

True, unless you take the alternative route through Javier on the way to Sanguesa. This adds only a few extra kms but takes you through a small village/tourist center and past Javier castle, birthplace of St Francis Xavier who helped found the Jesuit Order with St Ignatius Loyola. Worth the detour!

Is this alternative marked? I don't see it on Gronze.

Ruesta - Sangüesa | Camino Francés por Aragón | Gronze.com

La etapa transcurre en un entorno de melancólica soledad; a la salida de Ruesta afrontamos una larga y monótona subida, en la que ganamos 350 metros de desnivel en 6,4 kilómetros, con espléndidas vistas sobre el polémico embalse de Yesa. Como ayer, hoy también hay dos largos tramos sin...

www.gronze.com

 

[J Willhaus]

Is this alternative marked? I don't see it on Gronze.

Ruesta - Sangüesa | Camino Francés por Aragón | Gronze.com

La etapa transcurre en un entorno de melancólica soledad; a la salida de Ruesta afrontamos una larga y monótona subida, en la que ganamos 350 metros de desnivel en 6,4 kilómetros, con espléndidas vistas sobre el polémico embalse de Yesa. Como ayer, hoy también hay dos largos tramos sin...

www.gronze.com

No, you just have to look at Google maps to see where you turn off. Highly recommend a trip to Javier though!

 

[trecile]

No, you just have to look at Google maps to see where you turn off. Highly recommend a trip to Javier though!

Thanks. It's showing as an alternate Camino route (dark blue line) on Mapy.cz.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Aragónes wrap-up, Sangüesa-Monreal-Puente la Reina

So, the Aragónes, IMHO, is not for everyone. It has its beauty and it’s at times desperately boring. For some, it could be a bit to very challenging, especially the long stages with no support between stages. There are some notable climbs through beautiful and not so beautiful areas. Things we missed, the Monastery of San Juan de la Peña, maybe try to get this sorted in advance. Things we enjoyed, the Foz de Lumbier. Because of my knee, we taxied from Sangüesa to the Foz and spent a couple hours there, beautiful! Highly recommend the detour and you can add a day, walk there and continue to Monreal, 2 long days. We taxied to Monreal missing the pouring rain. Albergue in Monreal was clean and comfortable, 5 of us there, mostly self service. One bar open for dinner and “breakfast”, I had a bocadillo, café and orange juice.

Still another long day to Puente la Reina, we walked along the canal to shave a couple K off the 31, service in some of the villages but not all, mostly later in the day. Not a particularly interesting day for me.

In conclusion, the Aragónes has its appeal, if you like solo time and no crowds, this is your place. Be prepared for long days and carrying extra water, there’s none available most days. You’ll need to carry food too. I’m glad that I did it, we met some great people (4) and were continuing our walk with them on the Francés.

The knee is better, no problem today. Still a bit swollen but little to no pain. Thanks for the encouragement

 

[CatPhillips]

Thanks for the reports from the trail. I am here now and your experiences are helpful.

I flew from the states to Madrid Tuesday night/Wednesday morning. Spent Wednesday on trains and buses and arrived in Canfranc Station last night. I decided to sleep in and have a short day today, mostly because I wanted to stay at the albergue in Canfranc Pueblo. I got there around 1-ish and hung out by the river for a while, waiting for the 2:00 opening. To make a long story short, it never opened so I walked on to Villanua. The albergue there was full (young teens and pre-teens, don’t know the story, but there were lots of them), so I ended up in a hostal with a private room. Absolutely beautiful weather today, though, and a beautiful walk from Canfranc Pueblo.

It does feel like I may not see another pilgrim until I reach the Frances in a week. But if the weather stays this nice, I’m not going to complain.

Cat

 

[Vacajoe]

To make a long story short, it never opened so I walked on to Villanua.

Unfortunately, emergency repairs are keeping the Pueblo albergue closed until April 16th. I would hope they had put a sign in the window, but perhaps it fell down or blew away. I’m sorry that didn’t work out for you, but it reinforces that on these less-traveled routes and during the ramp-up period at the start of the season, it’s always good to check that an albergue has successfully opened for the season.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Thanks for the reports from the trail. I am here now and your experiences are helpful.

I flew from the states to Madrid Tuesday night/Wednesday morning. Spent Wednesday on trains and buses and arrived in Canfranc Station last night. I decided to sleep in and have a short day today, mostly because I wanted to stay at the albergue in Canfranc Pueblo. I got there around 1-ish and hung out by the river for a while, waiting for the 2:00 opening. To make a long story short, it never opened so I walked on to Villanua. The albergue there was full (young teens and pre-teens, don’t know the story, but there were lots of them), so I ended up in a hostal with a private room. Absolutely beautiful weather today, though, and a beautiful walk from Canfranc Pueblo.

It does feel like I may not see another pilgrim until I reach the Frances in a week. But if the weather stays this nice, I’m not going to complain.

Cat

Enjoy your trip, I believe the Aragónes is about tolerance and flexibility…maybe life too. The pilgrims we met up there are still with us. Extra water and food! Say hello to Jaquelina in Arrés.

 

[AnneMarie1]

True, unless you take the alternative route through Javier on the way to Sanguesa. This adds only a few extra kms but takes you through a small village/tourist center and past Javier castle, birthplace of St Francis Xavier who helped found the Jesuit Order with St Ignatius Loyola. Worth the detour!

I stopped in Xavier last year and loved that castle. The exhibit about Francis and his times is really well done. And there are places to stay and eat there, too.

 

[Juspassinthru]

What a difference a couple days make. The moment we arrived in Puente La Reina our small band of Aragónes Pilgrims was swallowed up by the CF. We’re in Navarette today, skipping the usual stages. We’ve had no problems finding a bed so far. Viana on a Saturday was quite lively but don’t expect to find many kitchens open until 8:30…after Mass. Navarette on a Sunday evening is mellow and I love it. Visit the church if it’s open, nice bar open on Sunday next door.

Knee’s functioning mostly as intended, we’ll see what tomorrow brings.

 

[AnneMarie1]

I did that route last year (Aragonese to main drag), then diverted to the Invierno at Ponferrada. If you get tired of being swallowed up by the masses by that point, the Invierno would allow you some quiet again. See how it goes.

 

[Juspassinthru]

I did that route last year (Aragonese to main drag), then diverted to the Invierno at Ponferrada. If you get tired of being swallowed up by the masses by that point, the Invierno would allow you some quiet again. See how it goes.

Thank you for the tip, so far it’s not too crazy, we’re ahead of the big surge in May.

 

[Juspassinthru]

We’re now in San Juan de Ortega, next stop is Burgos and an extra days rest. The very warm days of last week have given way to quite cool days this week and even cooler days next week.

The Camino is busy but until today, finding a bed had not been a problem. We’d planned on walking to Agés or Atapuerca but everything was completo. Instead, SJdO at the Convent…no heat, 2C/36 overnight, room 3 was freezing.

A couple observations, the Camino is already busy so plan accordingly. Many people I’ve talked to are booking their entire Camino. 7 years ago, there seemed to be at least some decorum regarding quiet time, lights out, etc. Not seeing that now, people are getting in bed at 8:30 and demanding that the lights be turned off, often these same people get up at 5:45 and turn all the lights on. Cuatro Cantones still makes a great dinner and they’ve expanded their menu to include ala carte choices, didn’t offer that in 2017. Best 17€ Pilgrim Meal I’ve had.

 

[trecile]

Best 17€ Pilgrim Meal I’ve had

€17? It better be good!

 

[Vacajoe]

Folks like to beat up on San Juan de Ortega albergue, but miss the history (ancient and recent) that makes it special. Not only was it built by an early civil engineer of the Camino, he was a follower of Santo Domingo (yes, the chickens!). It provided shelter and care for the original pilgrims way back then and continues that mission today after being reopened as an albergue in the 1980s, one of the original ones of Camino renaissance. The much-maligned garlic soup was a welcome meal in those early days of the Modern Camino. And as a bonus? You can celebrate Mass literally right next to the tomb of San Juan de Ortega himself in the accompanying ancient church.

 

[Juspassinthru]

€17? It better be good!

Broccoli and cauliflower soup, spinach casserole (vegetarian option), white/dark chocolate mousse and the usual bread and wine. On average for the Camino it may be 3-5€ higher but, it was above average in quality, so,

 

[M2ME]

We’re now in San Juan de Ortega, next stop is Burgos and an extra days rest. The very warm days of last week have given way to quite cool days this week and even cooler days next week.

The Camino is busy but until today, finding a bed had not been a problem. We’d planned on walking to Agés or Atapuerca but everything was completo. Instead, SJdO at the Convent…no heat, 2C/36 overnight, room 3 was freezing.

A couple observations, the Camino is already busy so plan accordingly. Many people I’ve talked to are booking their entire Camino. 7 years ago, there seemed to be at least some decorum regarding quiet time, lights out, etc. Not seeing that now, people are getting in bed at 8:30 and demanding that the lights be turned off, often these same people get up at 5:45 and turn all the lights on. Cuatro Cantones still makes a great dinner and they’ve expanded their menu to include ala carte choices, didn’t offer that in 2017. Best 17€ Pilgrim Meal I’ve had.

Just wondering when you say everything was completo if you are viewing accommodations on an app like booking or contacting them directly.

 

[Juspassinthru]

We tried multiple sources including phoning albergues directly. With the current volume, seems to be a bit of a bottleneck. Based on conversations with other Pilgrims, they all wanted to avoid San Juan and based upon my experience, I understand why. So, did we exhaust every source, I don’t know but we reached out to many different albergues/hostels.

 

[M2ME]

We tried multiple sources including phoning albergues directly. With the current volume, seems to be a bit of a bottleneck. Based on conversations with other Pilgrims, they all wanted to avoid San Juan and based upon my experience, I understand why. So, did we exhaust every source, I don’t know but we reached out to many different albergues/hostels.

Thanks.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Thanks.

You’re welcome, any time.

 

[Juspassinthru]

We’re now on the Meseta, Terradillos de los Templarios. Staying at the Jacque de Molay albergue, still very comfortable.

Some of the log jams regarding beds have eased, there was a local holiday that complicated matters a bit in Fromista the day before yesterday, some albergues were closed as were some bars and tiendas. Avoid the albergue Vicus or at least the room with 4 beds, seriously needs repairs of all types.

7 years ago, we stayed at the Casa espíritualidad in Carrión de los Condes and I had the opportunity to meet a retired Nun, Sister Carmen. For whatever reason, she touched my heart. After 7 years, I went back to see if she was still there. To my great delight she was. We had a very nice 25 minute chat, it left us both with huge smile Yesterday was my best day on the Camino, still smiling.

The CF is busy but manageable. Rain possible tomorrow, first time in 4 weeks, sometimes you get lucky.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Update, Mansilla de las Mulas is Completo for 4/27. We have no reason why. Everyone we’ve spoken to is scrambling. Religios has some availability, some are booking León and bussing back and forth. Just a heads up.

 

[J Willhaus]

Update, Mansilla de las Mulas is Completo for 4/27. We have no reason why. Everyone we’ve spoken to is scrambling. Religios has some availability, some are booking León and bussing back and forth. Just a heads up.

Last year a couple of the albergues in MdlM were closed for rennovations so it is possible that is ongoing.

 

[trecile]

Update, Mansilla de las Mulas is Completo for 4/27. We have no reason why

Probably because the municipal albergue has not reopened yet. My last time on the Francés I stopped at Puente Villarente.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Update: currently in Samos, only a couple days left. 6 hours of walking in the rain from Ponferrada to Villafranca was a delight but have started on April 1 and only experiencing 1 real rain day is awesome and I shouldn’t complain but as it’s a Pilgrim’s right, I will.

Some of the early congestion on the CF seems to have been caused by being in the middle of 2 large pre-booked groups from Korea and France. Once we figured that out, we used a rest day to get away and spent a few days in alternate towns. It’s still busy but manageable.

We’re in Santiago on May 15th. Limping and sore like half those here now. Sheets an real towels sound marvelous. Something other than a pilgrim menu dinner will be appreciated. And while I once loved bread and fries, i

 

[Juspassinthru]

We finished our O-S-M to Santiago Camino(s) on May 15th as planned and I wanted to kind of wrap this thread up.

The portion of the Chemin d'Arles that we walked (O-S-M to Somport Pass) was both challenging and rewarding. Starting on April 1 presented some challenges that others may not face but you're in the mountains, be prepared for rapid changes. The GR routes are more rugged than the CF.

The Aragónes, especially from Jaca to Puente la Reina offers its own challenges. Longer stages and very little support in between. Carry food and water. The climb up to Arrés is not particularly long, it is steep and it comes at the end of a long day. I've always said Old Santiago has a sense of humor. Also, leaving Ruesta, be prepared for a long and fairly steep climb, after the climb up to the Pass, this one is #2 on my list of memorable climbs. Also, the bar/albergue in the next town after Ruesta is closed on Mondays. Plan accordingly. Many of the albergues along this stretch are unmanned, the hospitalero comes when everyone is there which requires a call. The albergues communicate well, in Monreal for instance, she knew how many left Sangüesa. You probably will not see another pilgrim until you reach the next albergue and there's often no town or telephone connection in between.

I've mentioned in other posts how crowded the CF was. Some things I don't remember from my first Camino in 2017 are albergues closed one day a week for rest. I have no problem with that but it does cut into the available beds so you need to keep it in mind. Also, the use of cards is common, that was not the case 7 years ago. Often there's a minimum (10 euro was common). Prebooked groups are all over the CF making it difficult at times to find a bed/room, we avoided the "regular" stages which helped. It was very crowded in mid-April to mid-May.

Now, some of the best and worst albergues as well as some surprise finds. My opinion and $4 will get you a very bad coffee at Starbucks so no slings and arrows please.

Worst Albergues (in order)
Albergue San Juan in San Juan de Ortega (dirty, cold, bad plumbing and worse attitude)
Albergue Vicus in Fromista. Nice owner but in serious need of maintenance, it had heat though.
Albergue N.S. del Pilar in Rabinal. How many sardines can you fit in the can, too few facilities for the numbers. One stop shop, the bar is a busy place. Can be noisy too.

Best Albergues (not in order)
Albergue el Alfar. Under new management, Angie is a sweetheart and goes the extra mile. The communal dinner was very good. Could use another toilet/shower but it was certainly manageable.
Albergue de la Piedra in Villafranca del Bierzo. Same couple have run it for 17 years, very thoughtful and helpful. The rooms and dorm are clean and coffee/tea/water is always available for free.
Albergue Atrio in Triacastela. My friend Susan is no longer the owner, Denis seems to be a very good replacement. Clean with good facilities and they sanitize your pack and boots prior to them going to your room.
Monastery Sarrance. As basic as they come but the food is great and the ambiance/vibe is very calming.
Albergue de Peregrinos in Arrés. Not that you have many choices, it's basic but clean, it's donativo so remember to do your part. The hospitalera when were were there, Jacquelina from Brazil was awesome.
Albergue de Peregrinos de Navarette. Again very basic but clean. Great location next to the ruins in the middle of town. Very glad we stopped in Navarette to separate from 2 groups.

Surprise Finds

Hostel Santiago in Carrion de los Condes. We were having difficulty finding beds, I found this on Booking.com. 4 beds in a room, very clean. Separate bathroom, very quiet 80 euro divided by 4. Most beds are 15 to 17, this was a great choice.
BaruHaus in Mansilla de las Mulas. Once again, had a difficult time finding beds/rooms on WisePilgrim or in Brierley. Found this on Booking.com. It's a new apartment, 4 beds in 2 rooms one bathroom. Kitchen with washing machine. A little more expensive but when there's nothing available and walking in the rain to León is the next option, 100 euro divided by 4 was a good choice.
Alda Casco Antiguo in León. Seems this chain is catering to Pilgrims with a little larger budget as I saw them in many medium to larger cities. Nice hotel, with breakfast. Comfortable beds and everything was clean. Very near the cathedral. 47 euro divided by 2.

I thoroughly enjoyed most of this Camino. I've enjoyed the comments and feedback as well. After 3 Camino's, I'm probably done so I wanted to share whatever I could to help those on their way or hoping to walk a Camino some day.

 

[Pilgrim 122]

Thank you very much for your summary, I really appreciated your live from posts on the section in France as I was a few days behind you. I am doing the rest of the Aragones in the autumn so this is really helpful. Wishing you all the best whatever you decide next.