Pierre Julian
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances, Ingles, VdP, San Salvador, Aragonese & Northern. Sections of Portuguese & Mozarabic.
I’ve just returned from walking my Camino de San Salvador, I also walked it two months ago at the end of August. It is a very beautiful Camino, possibly the most beautiful one I have done. It is much quieter than any of the others, especially in October. There is very little litter or graffiti. I almost don't want to recommend it, so as to keep it as the pristine jewel that it is. So please, please, if you go there treat it respectfully and love it for its sheer beauty. Here are some tips for others who want to walk it.
· Travel from Santiago to León by train is a great journey, beautiful views, comfortable train. Also easy to fly into Asturias airport, bus to Oviedo, and then another bus to León.
· Great bus journey of about 4 hours back to Santiago from Oviedo.
· I stayed at the albergue of the Benedictine nuns in León both times, the night before walking. It’s not my favourite albergue, there are hoards of people staying there, no railings on the top bunks and pretty noisy, and lots of excitable, young and drinking Camino de Frances pilgrims - but all good-natured. However, it’s adequate, has friendly hospitaleros, provides a simple breakfast in the morning, and offers a good pilgrims menu in the hotel restaurant next door.
· The special San Salvador credencials can be bought at the albergue for €3. They are good quality credencials with helpful information.
· Getting the Salvadorian certificate upon arrival in Oviedo. My first arrival in Oviedo was on a Sunday. Apparently the cathedral does not provide stamps or certificates on a Sunday, and I did not get either. The second time I also arrived on a Sunday and called into the municipal albergue which is near the edge of Oviedo and before hitting the old city. They provide a stamp, certificate and tube.
· In late August all the albergues were full each night for the entire San Salvador, which was a surprise. All of us had heard it was quiet and were expecting to not see anyone. That said, there were still only 15 - 20 people walking, and as most of them were the "early morning race to the next albergue types" I walked all day alone. In late October, my friend and I were the only 2 pilgrims each night – much more pleasant, a wonderful, quiet and peaceful pilgrimage.
· Way marking: excellent, it would be impossible to get lost - except leaving Pola de Lena (cross over the bridge), and entering Mieres (watch the arrows carefully when getting opposite the town and don't cross a bridge too early).
· I downloaded and printed Gronze (google it, English translations, very thorough) and Ender’s (on Camino forum) guides, they are more than sufficient and really helpful.
· All albergues have blankets if you want to avoid carrying a sleeping bag.
· I did it in 6 stages both times. Although people do it in 5 stages, it would be pretty exhausting and there would have been a lot of rushing. Ideally 7 stages would be better for those who are less fit or get more easily tired. Weather: in October not a drop of rain and sunny skies, cool at night - very lucky. In August one day of rain, more cloudy, less sunny but hot. My guess is that in winter it would be very cold, wet and snowy.
· Stage 1: León to La Robla.
Pleasant, hilly, walking through urban areas and along roads for sections at the start.
The bars at Cascantes and La Seca were closed mid afternoon on my second trip. I certainly wouldn't wast time and energy making the detour to La Seca again. So, carry snacks to avoid hunger. Cascantes has a great fresh water spring which the locals travel to for water as it has no chemicals in it. On my first trip the Cascantes bar was open.
Ender’s alternative from Cascantes to La Robla is much more pleasant, avoids industrial areas, highways and the town of La Robla, however it adds about 3 more kilometres. You walk past an amazing power station.
La Robla albergue was open the first time I walked and we just grabbed a bed and paid later in the afternoon when the hospitalero arrived. The second time, it was all locked up and we had to keep phoning the number for about half an hour, eventually it was answered and a great fellow quickly came over and opened up.
Some fellow walkers arrived on my first trip after all the bunks were taken. They were directed to a B&B which they said was fantastic, nearby and very cheap (from memory – no more than €15).
The locals recommend the Olimpia bar, I ate there twice, decent pilgrim menu and friendly. Shops etc available though, and good cooking facilities in the albergue. Don’t lock the door at night: we did and they bought the police around in the morning as they couldn’t get in – no problem though!
· Day 2 La Robla to Poladura de la Tercia.
Beautiful day of walking, country roads, mountains and little villages.
La Pola de Gordon about 9 km form La Robla is the last supermarket for a couple of days, there are two supermarkets there – stock up for lunch and breakfast and snacks for the next two days.
Opposite the supermarket on the right is a beautiful old building and square – some kind of municipal offices, they are very friendly in there and offer a stamp and gave us a souvenir scarf.
There is an albergue at Buiza which looks very nice, but there is no shop or bar in the town, so you would have to take dinner as well. Plenty of water fountains there, and a good place to stop for lunch.
After Buiza it gets very remote and mountainous, lots of steep climbs, forest walks and wild horses.
BEWARE in the last half an hour of walking into Poladura de la Tercia, after the hard mountain climbs, there are 3 dogs guarding sheep in the fields. One of the dogs is very unpleasant and races across the fields barking and followed us inches from our heels barking and looking very menacing for about 15 minutes. This happened to me on both trips. It is quite unnerving and anyone with dog phobia would find it very frightening. Both times I was fine, but it was unpleasant.
Poladura de la Tercia albergue is fine, a bit grubby and only two bathrooms but adequate (especially when there was only two of us).
The first time it was full, as the the B&B next door, however we waited till the evening and Fernando who is great bought extra mattresses, so everyone was safe and had somewhere to sleep.
There is an unusual arrangement with the B&B next door: it has a bar which is only open for a couple of hoursin the evening, they give you a very good pilgrim menu which you carry back to the albergue. To get this meal – phone the night before. Otherwise there is only a machine for snacks.
· Day 3 Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares.
Another beautiful mountain walk, but it’s heavy going at times, amazing views.
As you come close to Arbás del Puerto there are now two options, one goes through a field, under electricity pylons, and arrives at a side road. Cross the fence, turn left, hit the highway and head to the border and the bar at Puerto de Pajares. This is the easier and shorter option, I did this on my first trip and I would do it again. The other option is to head to the right over the hill and then down a very difficult slope with lots of little hillocks at the end of which you get to Arbás del Puerto which is a derelict village with a huge church complex. The second trip I did this, and the church was closed. A friend told me that in August in late morning however the church was open and very worth a visit.
At Puerto de Pajares there is a great little bar, and on the right of the bar is a door to a dining room. They do a very good menu there, and the food is fantastic, well worth a visit – if you don’t mind walking after on a very full stomach.
After the bar you head to the fields behind and down a very, very steep grassy slope. My first trip it was raining and cloudy, so I could see nothing and slipped three times – be careful. My second trip it was sunny and much easier and more scenic.
At Pajeres there is a wonderful albergue run by Marissa who is wonderful, kind and friendly. Make sure to call her the night before. It is a very clean, comfortable and well equipped albergue. On my first visit she gave us a home cooked dinner (and for those who arrived earlier lunch). Her cooking is fantastic and it’s a wonderful place. On my second visit, there were only two of us and she directed us to a bar which provided a main course and desert. Beautiful church in Pajares - try the doors to enter.
· Day 4 Pajera to Pola de Lena.
Stock up with plenty of water at the start of this day, not many water options.
In my opinion this is the longest and hardest stretch, lots of climbing up, and slippery slopes down. It has beautiful views, but long stretches of walking through woods which are beautiful, but become a bit monotonous at times.
I didn’t bother to visit the church of Santa Christina de Lena both times, as I was too tired to climb another hill by that stage (instead of turning right to follow the path up the hill, turn left and follow the road to the old train station and follow the arrows through the underpass). My friends on both trips visited the church and said it was very beautiful and well worth a visit, it was also open.
Pola de Lena has a great municipal albergue, it is friendly, large, spacious, and has great showers. It is a pleasant town with plenty of restaurants, bars and supermarkets.
· Day 5 Pola de Lena to Mieres. This day is a short, pleasant and more urban, but still tiring after the previous heavy day. The little town of Ujo has a beautiful parish church and in the square opposite is a lovely bar and bakery and the best fresh orange juice I have had on any camino.
On both my trips there were photocopies of maps at the Pola albergue which provide directions to access the Mieres albergue (which is currently not staffed). You need to go to some kind of government building near the main town to get the stamp and keys to the albergue, which is donativo. The albergue is on the very edge of town on the way out, and has a microwave and fridge. There is also a little shop opposite the driveway out of the church, which opens a couple of times a day. Mieres is fun to walk back to from the albergue and try out the siderias and bars. There is also a great swimming pool there (make sure you have a swimming cap).
· Mieres to Oviedo. Quite a hilly day of walking, lots of little villages. There is a friendly bar about 10 minutes after leaving the Mieres albergue, which is great for breakfast.
The next bars are in Olloniego about 10 km further on. On the way out is a wonderful tower, two medieval bridges and a beautiful customs house and league marker.
Great views of the approach of Oviedo.
In Oviedo the albergue is on the way in. It is in a disused seminary building, ring the bell at street level and follow the yellow line to the reception. I have never stayed there, but visited it twice. It looks great, plenty of rooms and friendly staff. My friends who stayed there spoke well of it. In August it was very busy as three Caminos meet in Oviedo. On my second visit they said there were only 4 pilgrims there (good safe place to get the certificate and Oviedo stamp).
I stayed both times at the Hotel Carreño on the other side of town. It is hidden behind the train station and 5 minutes walk from the bus station. It is clean, friendly and around €45 for a two bed room – very handy for early departures by bus back to Santiago or to the Asturias airport (which is about half an hour from Oviedo). There is a great Sideria opposite the Carreño which seems to be only used by locals. Great food, but they speak no English and you have to go on trust with what the exuberant waiter recommends, excellent food and cider both times.
I will also add some photos shortly.
· Travel from Santiago to León by train is a great journey, beautiful views, comfortable train. Also easy to fly into Asturias airport, bus to Oviedo, and then another bus to León.
· Great bus journey of about 4 hours back to Santiago from Oviedo.
· I stayed at the albergue of the Benedictine nuns in León both times, the night before walking. It’s not my favourite albergue, there are hoards of people staying there, no railings on the top bunks and pretty noisy, and lots of excitable, young and drinking Camino de Frances pilgrims - but all good-natured. However, it’s adequate, has friendly hospitaleros, provides a simple breakfast in the morning, and offers a good pilgrims menu in the hotel restaurant next door.
· The special San Salvador credencials can be bought at the albergue for €3. They are good quality credencials with helpful information.
· Getting the Salvadorian certificate upon arrival in Oviedo. My first arrival in Oviedo was on a Sunday. Apparently the cathedral does not provide stamps or certificates on a Sunday, and I did not get either. The second time I also arrived on a Sunday and called into the municipal albergue which is near the edge of Oviedo and before hitting the old city. They provide a stamp, certificate and tube.
· In late August all the albergues were full each night for the entire San Salvador, which was a surprise. All of us had heard it was quiet and were expecting to not see anyone. That said, there were still only 15 - 20 people walking, and as most of them were the "early morning race to the next albergue types" I walked all day alone. In late October, my friend and I were the only 2 pilgrims each night – much more pleasant, a wonderful, quiet and peaceful pilgrimage.
· Way marking: excellent, it would be impossible to get lost - except leaving Pola de Lena (cross over the bridge), and entering Mieres (watch the arrows carefully when getting opposite the town and don't cross a bridge too early).
· I downloaded and printed Gronze (google it, English translations, very thorough) and Ender’s (on Camino forum) guides, they are more than sufficient and really helpful.
· All albergues have blankets if you want to avoid carrying a sleeping bag.
· I did it in 6 stages both times. Although people do it in 5 stages, it would be pretty exhausting and there would have been a lot of rushing. Ideally 7 stages would be better for those who are less fit or get more easily tired. Weather: in October not a drop of rain and sunny skies, cool at night - very lucky. In August one day of rain, more cloudy, less sunny but hot. My guess is that in winter it would be very cold, wet and snowy.
· Stage 1: León to La Robla.
Pleasant, hilly, walking through urban areas and along roads for sections at the start.
The bars at Cascantes and La Seca were closed mid afternoon on my second trip. I certainly wouldn't wast time and energy making the detour to La Seca again. So, carry snacks to avoid hunger. Cascantes has a great fresh water spring which the locals travel to for water as it has no chemicals in it. On my first trip the Cascantes bar was open.
Ender’s alternative from Cascantes to La Robla is much more pleasant, avoids industrial areas, highways and the town of La Robla, however it adds about 3 more kilometres. You walk past an amazing power station.
La Robla albergue was open the first time I walked and we just grabbed a bed and paid later in the afternoon when the hospitalero arrived. The second time, it was all locked up and we had to keep phoning the number for about half an hour, eventually it was answered and a great fellow quickly came over and opened up.
Some fellow walkers arrived on my first trip after all the bunks were taken. They were directed to a B&B which they said was fantastic, nearby and very cheap (from memory – no more than €15).
The locals recommend the Olimpia bar, I ate there twice, decent pilgrim menu and friendly. Shops etc available though, and good cooking facilities in the albergue. Don’t lock the door at night: we did and they bought the police around in the morning as they couldn’t get in – no problem though!
· Day 2 La Robla to Poladura de la Tercia.
Beautiful day of walking, country roads, mountains and little villages.
La Pola de Gordon about 9 km form La Robla is the last supermarket for a couple of days, there are two supermarkets there – stock up for lunch and breakfast and snacks for the next two days.
Opposite the supermarket on the right is a beautiful old building and square – some kind of municipal offices, they are very friendly in there and offer a stamp and gave us a souvenir scarf.
There is an albergue at Buiza which looks very nice, but there is no shop or bar in the town, so you would have to take dinner as well. Plenty of water fountains there, and a good place to stop for lunch.
After Buiza it gets very remote and mountainous, lots of steep climbs, forest walks and wild horses.
BEWARE in the last half an hour of walking into Poladura de la Tercia, after the hard mountain climbs, there are 3 dogs guarding sheep in the fields. One of the dogs is very unpleasant and races across the fields barking and followed us inches from our heels barking and looking very menacing for about 15 minutes. This happened to me on both trips. It is quite unnerving and anyone with dog phobia would find it very frightening. Both times I was fine, but it was unpleasant.
Poladura de la Tercia albergue is fine, a bit grubby and only two bathrooms but adequate (especially when there was only two of us).
The first time it was full, as the the B&B next door, however we waited till the evening and Fernando who is great bought extra mattresses, so everyone was safe and had somewhere to sleep.
There is an unusual arrangement with the B&B next door: it has a bar which is only open for a couple of hoursin the evening, they give you a very good pilgrim menu which you carry back to the albergue. To get this meal – phone the night before. Otherwise there is only a machine for snacks.
· Day 3 Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares.
Another beautiful mountain walk, but it’s heavy going at times, amazing views.
As you come close to Arbás del Puerto there are now two options, one goes through a field, under electricity pylons, and arrives at a side road. Cross the fence, turn left, hit the highway and head to the border and the bar at Puerto de Pajares. This is the easier and shorter option, I did this on my first trip and I would do it again. The other option is to head to the right over the hill and then down a very difficult slope with lots of little hillocks at the end of which you get to Arbás del Puerto which is a derelict village with a huge church complex. The second trip I did this, and the church was closed. A friend told me that in August in late morning however the church was open and very worth a visit.
At Puerto de Pajares there is a great little bar, and on the right of the bar is a door to a dining room. They do a very good menu there, and the food is fantastic, well worth a visit – if you don’t mind walking after on a very full stomach.
After the bar you head to the fields behind and down a very, very steep grassy slope. My first trip it was raining and cloudy, so I could see nothing and slipped three times – be careful. My second trip it was sunny and much easier and more scenic.
At Pajeres there is a wonderful albergue run by Marissa who is wonderful, kind and friendly. Make sure to call her the night before. It is a very clean, comfortable and well equipped albergue. On my first visit she gave us a home cooked dinner (and for those who arrived earlier lunch). Her cooking is fantastic and it’s a wonderful place. On my second visit, there were only two of us and she directed us to a bar which provided a main course and desert. Beautiful church in Pajares - try the doors to enter.
· Day 4 Pajera to Pola de Lena.
Stock up with plenty of water at the start of this day, not many water options.
In my opinion this is the longest and hardest stretch, lots of climbing up, and slippery slopes down. It has beautiful views, but long stretches of walking through woods which are beautiful, but become a bit monotonous at times.
I didn’t bother to visit the church of Santa Christina de Lena both times, as I was too tired to climb another hill by that stage (instead of turning right to follow the path up the hill, turn left and follow the road to the old train station and follow the arrows through the underpass). My friends on both trips visited the church and said it was very beautiful and well worth a visit, it was also open.
Pola de Lena has a great municipal albergue, it is friendly, large, spacious, and has great showers. It is a pleasant town with plenty of restaurants, bars and supermarkets.
· Day 5 Pola de Lena to Mieres. This day is a short, pleasant and more urban, but still tiring after the previous heavy day. The little town of Ujo has a beautiful parish church and in the square opposite is a lovely bar and bakery and the best fresh orange juice I have had on any camino.
On both my trips there were photocopies of maps at the Pola albergue which provide directions to access the Mieres albergue (which is currently not staffed). You need to go to some kind of government building near the main town to get the stamp and keys to the albergue, which is donativo. The albergue is on the very edge of town on the way out, and has a microwave and fridge. There is also a little shop opposite the driveway out of the church, which opens a couple of times a day. Mieres is fun to walk back to from the albergue and try out the siderias and bars. There is also a great swimming pool there (make sure you have a swimming cap).
· Mieres to Oviedo. Quite a hilly day of walking, lots of little villages. There is a friendly bar about 10 minutes after leaving the Mieres albergue, which is great for breakfast.
The next bars are in Olloniego about 10 km further on. On the way out is a wonderful tower, two medieval bridges and a beautiful customs house and league marker.
Great views of the approach of Oviedo.
In Oviedo the albergue is on the way in. It is in a disused seminary building, ring the bell at street level and follow the yellow line to the reception. I have never stayed there, but visited it twice. It looks great, plenty of rooms and friendly staff. My friends who stayed there spoke well of it. In August it was very busy as three Caminos meet in Oviedo. On my second visit they said there were only 4 pilgrims there (good safe place to get the certificate and Oviedo stamp).
I stayed both times at the Hotel Carreño on the other side of town. It is hidden behind the train station and 5 minutes walk from the bus station. It is clean, friendly and around €45 for a two bed room – very handy for early departures by bus back to Santiago or to the Asturias airport (which is about half an hour from Oviedo). There is a great Sideria opposite the Carreño which seems to be only used by locals. Great food, but they speak no English and you have to go on trust with what the exuberant waiter recommends, excellent food and cider both times.
I will also add some photos shortly.
Comments and good advice more than welcome.
Unless you don't mind walking short (15 km) days, you are going to have to choose, for one particularly hard choice, between Pajares and Bendueños. I have stayed at both and they are both 5-star albergues. Bendueños is more like a casa rural, and Sandra is an amazing cook. There are some pictures on gronze. 
