Notes from my Norte

[shefollowsshells]

I used The Northern Caminos Book , A Cicerone Guide by our own Dave Whitson and Laura Perazzoli and was very happy with this book when I needed to know where to go it always seemed to have the exact answer. Many sought me out to find out what my book said when they were in a bind. I made notes in book prior to departure based on threads here on our forum and people's photos. Links in particular were "favorite towns" and "things not to miss"...
Notes scribbled in my book - not necessarily suggesting people do these but these were my notes
p43,44,45 Irun to San Sabastian
I stayed at a wonderful auberge with the address of Honadarribia but not in its town it was one the way and is on the path once you bear left up into the natural area and away from town. Search forum for "Bilbo Baggins" because it looked like where he would live.
"walking over ridge"
"late middle age tradition go to Church Neustra Senora pay tribute to 12th century "Our Lady"
Santuraio de Guadalupe - Church with "Black Madonna"
"Mount Jaizkibel -amazing"
Follow GR Red and White and take high road vs low variant
p.46 Pasajes de San Juan/Pasaia Donibane- "loved town"
"hug coast" red and white
go route of light house
P48 San Sabastian
I stayed at Roger's House based on Audrey's advice and enjoyed it. Nice young crowd from around the World and the place was clean and super staff.
In the AM I went to the little bulb of land between the two beaches called Mont Urgall and would recommend.
p51 Orio
My notes say "beautiful stone path"...and sure in pictures it was stunning but I curses those stones every step

 

[shefollowsshells]

p53 Zarautz "jewel of the Basque summer"
the coastal route is under construction right after Zarautz, there are a few signs to tell you this so you must go the higher inland route. I always chose coastal route over anything else but really did enjoy this inland route.
I backtracked the few feet it took to enjoy Getaria, sitting there over the weekend at a restaurant called Mayflower was a highlight of my trip. My handwritten notes taken from someone here did say "stop and enjoy- don't miss" and super glad that I did.
p57 heading into Deba I wrote yes to follow the red and white
My notes say "loved town" though I got in late to it and probably didn't enjoy it on the same level. The off season auberge which sleeps 8 looked like a broom closet, but the nice police officer when you check in did give me a bocadilla
"buy food before leaving Deba"
My notes say to head for the monastary on this day but I did not make it in time and had to stay in Marina- Xemein. * I really wish I went into the church that is referenced that was founded around three megalithic stones. I stayed at Alberque Augustos and love that man dearly! Smoke smell and a constant TV playing are two things that drive me crazy and this place had both BUT I adored him so much I could easily look over it. The smoke smell and TV was contained far from the beds in the auberge and in the back area where his kitchen was. I was the only one at this place this night and got a special room complete with soft fuzzy sheets and the best nights sleep of the trip. Augustos greeted me with a beer and was just a nice man. I was thrilled when my walking partner my last two weeks told me the same wonderful stories about him that I felt I experienced...we both had the same feelings about him.
p65 monasterio de zenarruza
my notes say "stay here a highlight"...but I didn't...couldn't make it further...
Gernika p 67
The hostel was full and we stayed at "Hotel Gernika" and it was all I needed. Two separate beds and a nice bar connected to it.
Bilbao p 74
We stayed at Ganbara a youth hostel with pilgrims rate (lower rate than the book states). Nice clean, open nice staff , nice kitchen, great location....If a forum member grab our own MendiWalker for a drink ...GREAT resource and he walked with me the next morning to Portugalete which was a great part of my trip!
Leaving Bilbao we walked with the river to our left to Portugalete and the walk seemed to go very fast.
I did not stay in Portugalete but have a note "Sandy recommends Pension La Guia.
I attempted two stages in one here ...darkness happened and could not make it to Castro-Urdiales.
The area near Pobena had a bridge out and can not recall my detour but it did involve road walk.
The long walk of steps I think I counted 120 ...
I could not make it over the hill into Castro this night so had to stay at a Pension in Mioni that was wonderful, 35 Euros but like staying at a Bed and Breakfast. Nice owner...great sleep.
p 85- Castro-Urdiales
I loved this town!!!!
The auberge was simple and clean, no curfew, hidden key...
GREAT Italian restaurant there along the beach near auberge.
I would not have missed this town!
p86- ***don't miss this little bench on the Ocean
past Cerdigo you walk up into the woods heading to the coast and I heard goat bells as if magic thru the trees...there to the right was a bench overlooking the ocean. I stopped and ate there and was suprised at how many people said they saw it but didn't take the time to enjoy it. this was a magical spot!
ALSO
past Islares (but with an Islares address) there is a small cove area on the right...two restaurants I think.
I stopped and ate at the one on the left as you proceed down there.
Great little spot to go on a weekend, super glad I took the few minutes to enjoy a drink here!
p89 I took the long way...not really certain why BUT had a wonderful day in doing so I met up with three locals who walked with me almost that whole length and it was a highlight of my Camino. Great coversation and really enjoyed this walked up to a pretty church with them.

 

[shefollowsshells]

p90 - Laredo
my notes say "great place to stay" and totally agree
Correct me if I am wrong BUT the book says to go thru roundabout and go uphill...I backtracked due to this and think it was supposed to say "downhill" unless I approached a different way (that had waymarkings).
I stayed at El Buen Pastor and loved it!!!!
Don't look down when you get into Laredo, the pavement has ripples in it and honestly can make you seasick! My intention was to stay in Santona this night but glad I did not, I enjoyed Laredo very much.
p96 - Guemes- everyone says stay here! Agree it was very nice!
Make note in your book that the auberge is at the end of town so you are prepared. I thought I was never going to get there...Walked thru nudist beaches today...
p. 100 Santander
The lady running the municiple auberge was so sweet.
p.109 Santillana del Mar
Best meal of my Camino.
Ritzy Tourist meet Pilgrim...
Stayed in the auberge muniple and liked it, loved their sello.
Connected to a museum that I really enjoyed.
Peak in the windows to the small building where the clothes line is, masks!!!!
If anyone gets a peak inside if you grab me a picture of the masks in that one room building it is my one picture that "got away"...would LOVE to have peeked in there!
p 112 Cobreces- stayed at monastary that was filthy!!!!
Still enjoyed the night with friends and storm BUT honestly have little to say about the accomodations that was a rectangular building beside the monestary that has had little to no attention in years.
p113- La Iglesia
I don't think I saw a person in this town but treasured the architecture of the churches. Beautiful!!!!
p115- Comillas- didn't stay here but wish I had!!!!
I took many hours of a break here though!
notes shared a highlight was seeing the angels at the Cemetary and glad I took the time to do so.
***Great bar "Guadalupe", trendy Bohemian feel, felt like I was in Key West! Loved the owner and you could tell so did many trendy locals! Near auberge!
p116- San Vincente- precious family run auberge. Greatnight!!!!
Community meal and just a wonderful place to stay.
take the time and few steps to go up to the high point near the auberge and enjoy the view!
p 120- Unquero
If dying for a drink and food once you cross the river there to the right is a nice bar with a graphic logo of a fisherman, I enjoyed this spot! My notes say the name is Bustio.
p121-****must note!!!!!
Once you leave La Franca and head out onto the highway make sure you cross it and join the E9.
If I can stress anything other than footcare on the whole Camino it would be to make sure that you do this! there is a small chance to get in here to walk along the coast and enjoy a picnic, you literally have to cross a train track here (my blog has a picture of this).
The natural sites in here are wonderful.
An arch, a cave to walk down into, and a natural beach within the dunes there...
Search for my post 7 our of 9 pilgrims missed this...to see videos and more info!
This was a high light of my Camino!!!!!
p. 122 Pendueles...stay here with Javier!!!! Great auberge!
Again stay on the E9 leaving Pendueles...
At one point there was an architectural arch ruin overlooking the water, I took the time to check it out and looking off to the right from that point was the most stunning views of my trip.
p123- Bufones...was not blowing when I went thru but still a neat thing to see....
p124- Llanes (pronounced /Yawnis/)
I only had lunch here but certain I would have enjoyed it longer...
p128- Naves - bar that looks like a cowboy hang out, bagpipers were there when I stopped and enjoyed a Coke here. I bar/restaurant that was built with love...take a peak in there if you have no time to do anything else...I would encourage a drink stop if you can!
p129- Cuerres...lucky pilgrim getting to stay here at Auberge Casa Belen!!! Javier recommended this place and I walked a long day knowing it would be worth it!!!!
Two of my favorite Camino people to date! a wonderful retired couple has built this place with a small chapel in the back. They said they are living "our dream"...and it is true!
Forgot where it is but a few km before is a pasture you walk thru...be forwarned
Medieval bridge about 10 minutes before this auberge...
Not prepared to stop when you pass by their chapel is open in their backyard and really sweet!
p. 130Ribadesella- Tito Caves not open when I went thru, wish they were...
Great place to stay, though I did not...enjoyed a great lunch here and sat on the sand for hours relaxing and skyping family ...

Will finish later...
Sorry....

 

[mralisn]

You are wonderful, Neve.

See? I told you I would be gaining from you. Definitely going to supplement my guide with your information.

I owe you some wine and chocolate.

Keep a smile,
Simeon

 

[camino07]

Fantastic info,Neve. can't wait to see it all through my own eyes. Thanks so much!

 

[Jodipup]

Thanks so much for all your time to pass on your notes. We are leaving on 10 September to do Norte route. I will be adding your notes too our Cicerone book

 

[eagleh]

Hello can i get a link to your blog?
Lovely notes you have made.
Thank you

 

[OzAnnie]

Neve
Ditto to all the comments. Will print and save all your ideas. You've been 'paying it forward' well and truly.
Not sure how you can walk so efficiently, see so much in the day and recall /record so well in the day., but it's such a great help to we who follow 'she who follows shells'

Annie xx

 

[rickster]

Walking the Norte in September and found your comments to be extremely helpful. Thanks for taking the time.

 

[jpflavin1]

I have also recently finished the Norte. I seemed to be off Piste from Neve, though we did cross paths in Abadin and Baamonde.

Here are some of my thoughts on Albergues along the Norte route. Orio there is a private Albergue 10 Euro's. It is extremely clean and the owners will cook a meal for you, another 10 Euro's. The worst Albergue, imo, on the Norte, is the non Summer Albergue in Deba. It is the size of a shoe box and dirty with 9 beds and a shower jammed into it. The toughest day for me on the Norte was the walk from Deba to Markina. Make sure you bring plenty of fluids and snacks. This was also the only poorly marked segment. Some local has gone out and spray painted the markings with black paint. So pay attention. In Markina, I stayed at another private Albergue, Pitis. It is 10 euro's plus another 10 euro's for dinner at the bar/restaurant. Liendo is also a very nice Albergue (6 euro's). They have a washing machine on premises and it is free to use. Guemes is a must stop. About 700 meters off the Camino. It is run by Father Ernesto and is donativo. They serve breakfast and dinner, be generous. Truly a Camino gem. Albergue 'La Santa Cruz' in Santa Cruz de Bazana. Another family run donativo Albergue. This Albergue is actually in their home. Nieves serves dinner and breakfast and is a lovely person. She will also go over the next days options and provide home-made maps, be generous. Aves de Paso in Pendueles is run by Javiar. This is another donativo Albergue that serves dinner and breakfast, be generous in your donation. I also recommend you take the sea side route, mostly e-9, from here, there are some stunning views. Casa Belen, another wonderful home Albergue in Cuerres. Bridget and Manfred welcome you into their home. Hotel Carlos I in Villaviciosa. This is a hotel run by Suni, a lovely woman. She has single, double and triple accommodations (20, 30, 45 euro's). This is a very nice hotel, breakfast included. Hotel Marino in El Rellayo. I stopped here for a break. the ocean views were beautiful, so I decided to stay (30 euro's with a real breakfast). Albergue in Baamonde (6 euro's). This is a municipal Albergue and probably the nicest one on the Norte, imo. Miraz - this is a nice clean Albergue. It says donativo but the Hospitalero's basically ask for at least 8 euro's. there is only a bar here and they only serves sandwiches. So if you plan to stop here and eat well, bring food to cook. The monastery in Sobrado dos Monxes. This is an historic and a nice place to stay (6 euro's). Several restaurants in town. Salceda- there are two private Albergues here (10 euro's) and an interesting bar (A Casa Verde). A little on the eccentric side but a lot more character than the typical town bar. It is right next to the second Albergue.

These are my favorites. Others could have different opinions.

I recommend you at least look at the Gronze guide. It shows a lot of the alternative routes and there are many options on the Norte. I do not use a guide but I saw many people with 'The Northern Camino's guide book' and they all seemed to be happy with it. Be aware of detours. Some are not necessary as there is a small job be done and the workers will let you pass. The one prior to Pobena though is a bridge out and required a 30 minute walk around. I recommend you follow the detour here. That said, the walk down to the beach in Playa Arenas was enjoyable. I recommend you take as many of the coastal routes, if you like ocean views, as possible. This only real downside to this route is the large amount of road walking. It is tough in the beginning and pretty easy at the end.

Hope this is helpful'
Joe

 

[angulero]

p 120- Unquero

Unquera

 

[shefollowsshells]

Unquera

Oh honey...trust me it could be a full time job correcting my typos

 

[shefollowsshells]

Sorry for the different posts, the system limits how many words I can use per post.
From Ribadesella enjoyable drink in La Vega, going into La Vega was a pretty walk and if I remember correctly I actually thought I was not on course as there were few way markers for a bit. La Vega had a fancier restaurant there that I actually walked into to get a drink and they motioned me out back J…glad they did as they have a festive patio out on the beach and I enjoyed the relaxation there.
Leaving La Vega was a bit of a challenge, the route has you going thru straight mud! The worse I experienced to this point. I had seen little rain to this point so I suspect it might look like this often. My book called this a “medieval road” and I think it was animal excrement from the medieval times. None the less my shoes were complete mud at this point. There were fenced areas parallel to the path but if you jumped into them you still had to jump out of them from what I can tell.
****VERY IMPORTANT- NOTE THIS!!!! P 135 You are walking on highway and there is a sign that will prompt you to take a left and get on the “Camino Real”. One of my buddies I think ready to call it day stayed on the highway…whatever you do don’t miss this “Camino Real”, if the Ocean draws you this is exactly what you have come to see!!!! The beaches are spectacular!
P135 La Isla- I arrived with mud all over me, my friends already at the bar had none…
I followed way markings instead of looking at my book , had I looked at my book I would have noticed that I did not need to cross the street in town to get to auberge and the signs seemed to prompt me to do that. This area was ALL mud!.
nice auberge with a really nice kitchen, if you like to do community meals this just might be the best auberge to pull it off in. We did not, but a group of Germans walking together had a great dinner and breakfast here with a nice big table to share. This auberge had one bed left when I arrived. You must get the key from a lady’s house, there will be one sign showing you where to go. I think her name was Arletta or something similar and I think her house number was 85. IF beds are tight and you don’t jump thru this hoop you might miss a bed… This small town seemed like a maze to me but I was so pooped and friends were waiting for me at the bar and I knew there was only one bed left. NOTE there is a bed/sofa in kitchen that I grabbed to avoid huge snoring J All beds in one open room here so no real way to escape snorers.
Leaving La Isla I stayed on the highway until given the chance to take a left within minutes as I knew the trail was muddy.
I think my left was taken at Bueno.
P 138 Villaviciosa my notes said “town liked”, and I agree! I stayed at the Hotel Carlos which was fabulous! Very pretty, in the heart beat of activity and we got a three bed room and each paid $13 Euros I think.
Nice shower, blow dryer and a simple breakfast that was delivered to the room.
They recommended a restaurant that was not all that great in my opinion but edible.
At this point I headed south…off of the Norte…but only for a few days to take a loved Camino friend to the airport in Oviedo…so can’t give any recommendations for the next few days until Aviles (I skipped Gijon).

 

[shefollowsshells]

P216 Pola De Siero- I think this is where we stayed. This new auberge was beautiful, the grounds were inviting. There were a few men manning this auberge and I think there was a great pride in it from this town. They have a kitchen BUT they do not have a kitchen sink (crazy-huh?) or stove etc…. So dishes are washed in a bathroom.
I wish I could say I had dinner in this town, my Camino friends decided we eat in and while the grounds were the perfect place to eat and conditions without a kitchen sink were very restricting. Eat out!!! J
I loved Oviedo- p 219! The auberge was nothing special but all we needed in that the town is where we hung out! I would totally avoid the private auberge that is referenced in our book. I described it in its own thread. We enjoyed sitting out at a Bohemian bar where the seats spill out into the walkway and you could see the cathedral down the street.
P147- the walk to Aviles (back up to the Norte) was beautifully marked!
Great day! I really liked Aviles …I think I would have scouted out a better place to sleep …check the beds…
I wrote about this night in a post recently. Great town to enjoy dinner and drinks!
P154- El Pito…walked on to Cudilerrio
There is a new auberge in El Pito that is at the end of the town right before the church. It is affiliated with the hotel. I think the hotel was Hotel Alvero. This was a very nice auberge, small, white duvet comforters, lockers, huge round shower head. They offered breakfast but not till 0900…
I went on to Cudilerrio which was important to me. Under the thread “new auberge” I mention a pension there that was full. IF you wanted the night life of this pretty trendy town I would sniff out that pension. Cudillerrio was an easy 2 km walk from El Pito and I enjoyed it very much.
P 159- the rock beach of Ballota…enjoyed taking the extra few minutes to enjoy this beach.
Cadavedo was a small auberge- if I had a chance to stay somewhere else I would…though dinner at the nearby restaurant was a lot of fun mainly due to the company.
Luarca- We stayed at the auberge that was “out of town”, in Almuna.
The only downside of this was that it opened I think at 3 so our plan was to go , register, drop our bags run to Luarca…that they did not open earlier held us up some. If doing a short day like we did this might not be the ideal option though we made it work. There was a nice large grocery store on the way to Almuna. For minimal cost they will give you toast , coffee etc… in the morning. We ran into a problem in Luarca in that we were starving! And the restaurants opened at 8 for dinner. As you head back out of Luarca back to the auberge in Almuna there was a bar…eat there if you find yourself in this time crunch.
P170 and 171- I would do what I could to enjoy Tapia. This auberge is on a perfect spot of land. If you chose a bunk bed upstairs you can hear the ocean thru the very small window that is opened there. I don’t know the name of the restaurant we at , but it had a long bar running down the right side and many tables on the left side. I think it was the only one opened for us. WONDERFUL meal! Great night out!
We took the coastal variant AND in the column of our book it even offered up an E0 view that was long but stunning!!!!
I don’t know how long BUT some of the sights there were very different than anything else on the Camino and I really enjoyed these extra kilometers.
***make note- leaving Tapia we followed the E9…my walking buddy thankfully noticed in my German guide a mention of a scenic spot midway between Tapia and Ribadeo. It is in the Santa Gadia area. It is almost hidden but it is spot where you get to go on a secluded beach. We both went down there and it is where I said my “Bye” to the Ocean knowing that I was about to go inland. I enjoyed my 30 minutes – hour there just sitting on a huge rock.

 

[angulero]

Cudilerrio---Cudillero
Hotel Alvero---Hotel Alvaro
Almuna---Almuña

 

[bimblingalong]

Many thanks for the updates & corrections...will be very useful, start in Santander on June 12 th...gracias..

 

[AlanB]

Great notes. I walked the del Norte last summer and, on the main, stayed in different places than you did. That's the beauty of the del Norte. I feared that there would be a lack of accommodation options but that's not the case.If you don't mind I'll add my notes below. mostly accommodation notes

San Sebastian - Got lucky with the Youth Hostel at the far end of the beach. They keep a few spaces for pilgrims. Safe bet. The albergue is only open July/August

Akzizu- Lovely house.They have given over half the house to pilgrims. Not a regular stop for most so very peaceful

Deba-Tough walk to get here.The del Norte's commitment to keeping you of road leads you through a load of mud. It wasn't a wet day. That mud doesn't move. Notes tell me I was well pissed off. Steep descent to Deba..tough on the knees. Check in at the tourist office and then a lift/elevator to the Albergue. Very Spartan but fine. Good choice of menus in town. Lovely place.

Markina Xemien- (refer to notes) Pissing down! Dave says well way-marked. On the contrary, a local has decided to de-face the arrows.Uphill, mud.The tourist office had kindly provided a route map . Useless in the rain. Got lost..twice.Albergue at the convent was nice. There were other options. Hardest day of the del Norte.

Next day I walked with a fervour. Plenty ups and downs. Pure Basque country.My Spanish friends wouldn't even stop in Muntibar due to the ETA associations. Thereafter a few ridiculously hard struggles through muddy paths. This isn't the mud that lessens in summer.It's the clayey stuff. Went through Gernika. Lovely town. Made the mistake of tackling the hill after Gernika in the mid-afternoon. Very steep. Stayed in a lovely Albergue in Eskarikas...400m of the route. Lovely. Only 4 of us.

Next day to Portugalete.Took the river route out of Bilbao.May have been the lesser of 3 evils but can't confirm as I didn't walk the other options.Take the moving bridge into town and the Albergue is half way up the escalator (it makes sense when you are there).

Castro- Uriadles- Resort town. Albergue at the end of town. Lots of bars and restaurant options. Swimming options along the way. Took a dip in Pobena.

Laredo- Another busy resort. Albergue in old town was a bit weird but fine.

Laredo to Guemes. The ferry to Santona starts at 9am but there is a longer option. I took that. Guemes...70 pilgrims..every guide recommends it and no surprise.Great

Waked through Santander..didn't fancy it and stayed in Boo de Pielagos.Next to the train station. Pilar is a star. 5 pilgrims.

Take the train across the bridge.Stopped in Santillanna del Mar. Beautiful place. Stayed in in Cobreces. Agree with previous post. Minging Albergue but restaurant across the road has an excellent menu and a good swim to be had 1km away.Every cloud...and all that.

Wish i'd stopped in Comillas but battered on to Colombres.The big blue building as you enter the town is a hostel which keeps a few rooms for pilgrims.Decent.

Lllanes-Liked this place so much I stayed 5 nights. Albergue next to train station was full but plenty other options. in the 20-30 category (and above)Stunning setting with the Picos behind the town.

Realised I was behind schedule (blame the cidre) so pressed on to San Esteban de Leces.Pick up your grub in Ribadesella. There's nothing there other than the Albergue and a Church. Lovely setting. Note..you can order takeaway food.

Villaviciosa- stayed in Hotel Carlos-Excellent

Flip of a coin del Norte or Primitivo.I went del Norte. There,s a distinct point where you have to make choice.Would love to have done both.Pressed on to Gijon.Pension. Disappointing.

Walk out of the town was ugly..no other word. Nice walk then even uglier walk into Aviles. Never seen a primary school in a power station. Albergue bang in the middle of town. Hospitalerio is a bit of celeb but I thought he was out of order for not letting someone with a dog stay. The dog was going to sleep outside for goodness sake.

Decent stretch to Soto de Luna. Albergue is an old school house.Really liked this place.Check in at the local bar.

Almuna- Albergue here was average at best. Didn't detract from the experience but would stay in Luarca given a choice. Truth be told...the Hospitalario was a bit of an arse.Lights on at 6.30 etc.

Bit hazy here. Next stop Vilela. Bar and Albergue. Nothing else . Eat in the bar or starve.

More hills.Up down/up down.Mondonedo.Check in with the Polis.Lots of facilities.

Large uphill from the town.Vilalba ..large Albergue before the town.Xunta..

Arrived at Miraz. Big queue. I don't know what the solution is here.

Boimorto- Great Albergue. Almost empty.Can only be because of the location.

Santiago de Compistella.Stupidly long day. Got freaked out with the crowds in Arzua so pressed on.

 

[AML]

Great notes. I walked the del Norte last summer and, on the main, stayed in different places than you did. That's the beauty of the del Norte. I feared that there would be a lack of accommodation options but that's not the case.If you don't mind I'll add my notes below. mostly accommodation notes

San Sebastian - Got lucky with the Youth Hostel at the far end of the beach. They keep a few spaces for pilgrims. Safe bet. The albergue is only open July/August.

Alan, do you remember name of hostel in San Sebastian. I'm looking into accommodation options for next week.
Cheers
Aidan

 

[AlanB]

http://www.donostia.org/info/visitante/albergues.nsf/fwHome?ReadForm&idioma=cas&id=B341274

 

[bjorgts]

Wonderfull! Many thanks to you all. I will walk first part of Camino Norte caming from the Le Puy route and GR10. I gather all the informations I can find.