D
Deleted member 36903
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Just back from walking from Porto to SdC and wanted to share a few observations, still a bit knocked out from travelling so excuse the rambling.
First of all, I abandoned my original plan to walk the coastal route after walking out to Matosinhos and discovering that, in the heatwave at the end of April, even the sea breeze was not alleviating the blistering temperatures. I also realised that I like walking through villages where life is centred on agriculture and has a discernible rhythm to it. I did not enjoy walking on roads with no space for pedestrians and with drivers who had no respect for the well-being of pilgrims, mercifully this was a short part of the overall Camino. I agree with all those here on the forum who testify to the friendliness of the Portuguese people and the wonderful food. I even enjoyed a Francesinha sandwich although I think this might be a once-in-a-lifetime pleasure.
The Pilgrims' Mass at Barcelos was one of the highlights of the journey and the few of us attending there were made exceptionally welcome. After the evening mass we were given a personal blessing from the very friendly priest, then invited to the Vestry to sign a book with entries from previous pilgrims followed by gifts of a decorated stone - to leave along the way where we thought appropriate for us - and a small decorated cockle shell. The stay at Casa Fernanda was a delight. I arrived barely compos mentis after walking for far too long in the heat, and was lucky to have reserved a space. The French couple I had walked with had not done so, and had to be turned away. Fernanda and her husband are so committed to supporting pilgrims, and it showed in the thought that has gone into providing facilities and an environment that enables exhausted walkers to refresh themselves, relax, and socialise - the evening meal was delicious, plentiful and forged friendships that lasted to SdC - and beyond?
The undisputable low point was the stay at the albergue in Pontevedre. It is a very good building and the hospitalero who checked us all in was friendly and efficient, but some of the people staying there seemed not to understand about consideration for others, partying until the early hours, then coming (and exiting) into the dormitory with torches and starting to prepare the bed with the disposable sheet & pillowcase they had been given almost 12 hours earlier. I ended up taking my bedding and sleeping in the reception area. On the good side, there was a cheap breakfast available from the train station - almost next door to the albergue - which opens even before the earliest pilgrim rises.
I stayed in a mixture of albergues and private accommodation with another pilgrim I had met at Casa Fernanda and can recommend Residencial Portas do Sol in Valenca, the rooms are excellent, the bathrooms luxurious and it is centrally located in the old part of Valenca, and the owner is a perfect gentleman. He went beyond the call of duty when I left something behind. Such kindness to pilgrims deserves our support. Less bijou in appearance but with everything a pilgrim needs - including a bath - was La Moderna in Caldas de Rais. Jose, the owner, is a lovely person, so helpful in advising on where to get laundry done cheaply - and quickly - plus a gratis tortilla (made by his wife) boccadillo in a bag left hanging on the door in the morning.
This was a very different Camino to last year's walk from SJPDP and some stages to my mind are demanding, not because of the terrain but the uncertainty of locating food and accommodation. There is a rhythm to the Frances that was not there in my experience of walking the Portuguese, but then I did not start in Lisbon.
The best part was undoubtedly the people I met along the way, both locals and other pilgrims. When asked if I would do it again I would have to say no because the journey almost always felt like a walk rather than a Camino, and often I felt like a tourist rather than a pilgrim. But strangely, the arrival in SdC and the Pilgrims' Mass (both the Cathedral service and the English Mass) were more meaningful to me than last year. I was prepared for the flashing cameras during the service this time but cannot reconcile the notion of people in a consecrated building photographing the giving of the sacrament.
First of all, I abandoned my original plan to walk the coastal route after walking out to Matosinhos and discovering that, in the heatwave at the end of April, even the sea breeze was not alleviating the blistering temperatures. I also realised that I like walking through villages where life is centred on agriculture and has a discernible rhythm to it. I did not enjoy walking on roads with no space for pedestrians and with drivers who had no respect for the well-being of pilgrims, mercifully this was a short part of the overall Camino. I agree with all those here on the forum who testify to the friendliness of the Portuguese people and the wonderful food. I even enjoyed a Francesinha sandwich although I think this might be a once-in-a-lifetime pleasure.
The Pilgrims' Mass at Barcelos was one of the highlights of the journey and the few of us attending there were made exceptionally welcome. After the evening mass we were given a personal blessing from the very friendly priest, then invited to the Vestry to sign a book with entries from previous pilgrims followed by gifts of a decorated stone - to leave along the way where we thought appropriate for us - and a small decorated cockle shell. The stay at Casa Fernanda was a delight. I arrived barely compos mentis after walking for far too long in the heat, and was lucky to have reserved a space. The French couple I had walked with had not done so, and had to be turned away. Fernanda and her husband are so committed to supporting pilgrims, and it showed in the thought that has gone into providing facilities and an environment that enables exhausted walkers to refresh themselves, relax, and socialise - the evening meal was delicious, plentiful and forged friendships that lasted to SdC - and beyond?
The undisputable low point was the stay at the albergue in Pontevedre. It is a very good building and the hospitalero who checked us all in was friendly and efficient, but some of the people staying there seemed not to understand about consideration for others, partying until the early hours, then coming (and exiting) into the dormitory with torches and starting to prepare the bed with the disposable sheet & pillowcase they had been given almost 12 hours earlier. I ended up taking my bedding and sleeping in the reception area. On the good side, there was a cheap breakfast available from the train station - almost next door to the albergue - which opens even before the earliest pilgrim rises.
I stayed in a mixture of albergues and private accommodation with another pilgrim I had met at Casa Fernanda and can recommend Residencial Portas do Sol in Valenca, the rooms are excellent, the bathrooms luxurious and it is centrally located in the old part of Valenca, and the owner is a perfect gentleman. He went beyond the call of duty when I left something behind. Such kindness to pilgrims deserves our support. Less bijou in appearance but with everything a pilgrim needs - including a bath - was La Moderna in Caldas de Rais. Jose, the owner, is a lovely person, so helpful in advising on where to get laundry done cheaply - and quickly - plus a gratis tortilla (made by his wife) boccadillo in a bag left hanging on the door in the morning.
This was a very different Camino to last year's walk from SJPDP and some stages to my mind are demanding, not because of the terrain but the uncertainty of locating food and accommodation. There is a rhythm to the Frances that was not there in my experience of walking the Portuguese, but then I did not start in Lisbon.
The best part was undoubtedly the people I met along the way, both locals and other pilgrims. When asked if I would do it again I would have to say no because the journey almost always felt like a walk rather than a Camino, and often I felt like a tourist rather than a pilgrim. But strangely, the arrival in SdC and the Pilgrims' Mass (both the Cathedral service and the English Mass) were more meaningful to me than last year. I was prepared for the flashing cameras during the service this time but cannot reconcile the notion of people in a consecrated building photographing the giving of the sacrament.
