Norte (?primitivo) sept/oct - entry point Barcelona

[OzAnnie]

I've been dithering for months now, so wondering if anyone would mind sharing their thoughts or experience.

I'll arrive BCN after midday 30aug. Planning to stay there 2 nights and get myself to the Norte.
I have tried rome2rio, but would like pilgrim input if possible.

Q1. Any accomm recommendations?


Q2
From BCN. Fly to San Sebastián / start there. ( any accommodation recommendations?)
Or from San seb then bus to Irun. & Start there. ( accomm rec ? Ditto )

I won't worry about accomm once started but like to have the first night sorted.

Q3
From BCN. Train to Irun


Probably comes down to personal choice with mode of travel, but would like to know if anyone taking the train thought it was a good way to see Spain too? Less time required to be there before take off but longer on route.

Q4
The primitivo has had some terrific threads and it sounds glorious. So I'm very temped to go that way when the decision is required .. too many lovely choices. Can you steer me in the right direction please?

If you have any input or thoughts I"d really appreciate it,
I have 6 weeks

Annie

 

[Terry Lee]

Hi Annie!

I recommend the following.

1. From BCN, take the RENFE train from Terminal 2 to Sants Station (Estacion Sants).

Transit Hotel is 5 minutes walk from Sants Station. https://foursquare.com/v/transit-hotel-barcelona/4bc7782893bdeee1f36a37ae
It's 60 Euro per double per night.

You can walk to the famous la Sagrada Familia from here. 30-40mins

And the best of all, you can get a express train (6 hours ride) from Sants Station to IRUN. If I remember correctly, it runs 7:30a and 15:30p

2. At IRUN, stay at the Albergue. Opens at 4p

3. The same train will stop at San Sebastian too.

***
Me. I went Norte, from Irun to Oviedo, and switched to the Primitivo. And I finished in 39 days. Most awesome.

***
When you reach Santiago, you can take a flight back to BCN.

Terry

 

[OzAnnie]

Terry Lee
You're the greatest!
I knew the forum would come up trumps. Your response is perfect!
Placement of accommodation near the station is awesome and knowing now that I can get renfe from the airport direct to Sants station. (Did I understand your msg correctly ?). I have been in BCN before, but it's all a blur regarding trains/accom placement, as it was all pre my knowledge of the Camino.
I have been to the Sagrada Familia, and it's not to be missed you're right. Still want to get my legs planted on the ground this time on arrival though (this will be 3rd camino) and spend some time walking about before catching the train., hence 2 nights I think. It will give me a chance to revisit the lovely city and enjoy a Sangria.

When you moved to Oviedo and took primitivo., was it a decision taken then, or was it your intention?
Days needed, may be just enough, I've got 46 days but a few of those are in transit, so roughly 43days from arrival in Spain. You would be I'd guess a lot younger and fitter.

Returning. As I had booked flight in February as exiting from Paris -I'll do as I did last year on 'the Frances' which was : a flight on 'Vueling' to Paris'. But will now investigate that side., to see if still available. I wasn't sure when to book the return before but will now try for the day before I leave.

Thank you so much for sharing .
Annie

 

[shefollowsshells]

I've been dithering for months now, so wondering if anyone would mind sharing their thoughts or experience.

I'll arrive BCN after midday 30aug. Planning to stay there 2 nights and get myself to the Norte.
I have tried rome2rio, but would like pilgrim input if possible.

Q1. Any accomm recommendations?


Q2
From BCN. Fly to San Sebastián / start there. ( any accommodation recommendations?)
Or from San seb then bus to Irun. & Start there. ( accomm rec ? Ditto )

I won't worry about accomm once started but like to have the first night sorted.

Q3
From BCN. Train to Irun


Probably comes down to personal choice with mode of travel, but would like to know if anyone taking the train thought it was a good way to see Spain too? Less time required to be there before take off but longer on route.

Q4
The primitivo has had some terrific threads and it sounds glorious. So I'm very temped to go that way when the decision is required .. too many lovely choices. Can you steer me in the right direction please?

If you have any input or thoughts I"d really appreciate it,
I have 6 weeks

Annie

Oh Annie so excited for you!!!!!
I don't know what BCN is (?) I am embarrassed to admit....
My vote is to start from Irun (or Hendaye which is stone's throw away)...but only because I did that I enjoyed that day and it kicked my bootie.
I stayed in a great little spot that was about an hour and half walk from Irun if I am not mistaken. The details escape me quickly which is why I have to write when
things are fresh in my head. I really liked that stop.
I did not do the Primitivo but people gush over it...it must be amazing! I stuck with the Norte and for me at the time it worked BUT could never suggest it over the Primitivo I think one is called to the one they should walk. With that said the Primitivo is on my radar...

Buen Camino!

 

[OzAnnie]

Oh Annie so excited for you!!!!!
I don't know what BCN is (?) I am embarrassed to admit....
My vote is to start from Irun (or Hendaye which is stone's throw away)...but only because I did that I enjoyed that day and it kicked my bootie.
I stayed in a great little spot that was about an hour and half walk from Irun if I am not mistaken. The details escape me quickly which is why I have to write when
things are fresh in my head. I really liked that stop.
I did not do the Primitivo but people gush over it...it must be amazing! I stuck with the Norte and for me at the time it worked BUT could never suggest it over the Primitivo I think one is called to the one they should walk. With that said the Primitivo is on my radar...

Buen Camino!

Hi Neve
I know what u mean about not being fresh in your mind (re the little place outside Irun). My short term memory needs help a lot !!!!
However, I have been re reading Norte posts a lot while researching , plus re reading your blog. It really is a good one. On that u mention the 'little place near Irun'. I remember reading it on the weekend. So could be there or the albergue. I could still look about Irun and get there in time.

BCN is the Airport abbrev for Barcelona . I booked flight entry there, thinking of doing a little of the aragones as well., but that was being too greedy. Too much transit time and would I would have had to short-change my northern route. As u say. Another time
I've got to order my guide today. I think you used the Cicerone guide ?

Great to hear from u Neve
I've just bought a 2nd pair of footwear !! Still Keens but not goretex lined and not boots.
The other recent purchase was Keens boots (goretex lined) and they have been irritating my ankles a lot . I didn't want a re-run of last years swelling if I can somehow guard against it


Funny isn't it. - I still have worries about things even though I'm hitting the trail for 3rd time.

Annie

 

[oursonpolaire]

I took the train from Barcelona to Bilbao, and found the route extremely scenic. While Spanish buses are great, the trains take breathtaking routes. I have not done the western part of the del Norte, but had headed inland along the Primitivo; it is a physically challenging Camino but after a few weeks on the del Norte, where you can build up endurance after Irun (especially from Irun, which has got some stairmaster bits or St Sebastian, you should be in reasonable shape for it.

 

[whariwharangi]

San Sebastian Airport EAS is located in Hondarribia ... about 25 km from San Sebastian and about 2 km from Irun Renfe Station ... train or plane will get you to the same place. See the airport map.

Probably the main factor in deciding train or plane is cost.

San Sebastian Airport EAS
http://www.aena-aeropuertos.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-San-Sebastian/en/

 

[MKalcolm M]

Hi Annie,

I'd suggest starting in Irun, as it is a great day of walking to San Sebastion. As mentioned above, you can stay at the alberge there and the yellow arrows begin outside the door. There is no need to decide on the Primitivo or stay on the Norte until you are on the walk itself. After the first two weeks of the Norte it gets much easier, if you are tired then stick to the Norte, if still up for mountains then head down the Primitivo. 43 days should be plenty time to walk, don't worry about not being young and fit, I'm in my mid fifties and not fit at all, but managed to haul myself into Santiago in a little less time than that. If you do get tire or need to go slower, you can always hop a bus for a stage or two. You'll have a great time, buen camino!

 

[OzAnnie]

San Sebastian Airport EAS is located in Hondarribia ... about 25 km from San Sebastian and about 2 km from Irun Renfe Station ... train or plane will get you to the same place. See the airport map.

Probably the main factor in deciding train or plane is cost.

San Sebastian Airport EAS
http://www.aena-aeropuertos.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-San-Sebastian/en/

Hi to you Whariwharangi
You're great with info. Re from airport San Sebastián (hondarribia). I gather you could get a taxi to Irun rather than into San seb?
I wouldn't attempt to walk from the airport (traffic ).

The cost factor in choosing between plane and train won't sway me as the difference isn't really huge in prices I'm bringing up.
Main factor to me is if plane, I need to get out to the airport from city and be there some hrs before., where Barcelona sants would be accessible in 5 minutes if staying at the transit hotel. If I had incorporated it in original flight , it would have been no contest. Ie already at the airport. Just fly on. (Hindsight - would have been good idea, and take a couple of days in Northern Spain) but working with the flight I have??? ..hmmmm...As I type this, I have just realised I could still do that! I 'll make that decision soon.
Thankyou, Annie.

 

[OzAnnie]

I took the train from Barcelona to Bilbao, and found the route extremely scenic. While Spanish buses are great, the trains take breathtaking routes. I have not done the western part of the del Norte, but had headed inland along the Primitivo; it is a physically challenging Camino but after a few weeks on the del Norte, where you can build up endurance after Irun (especially from Irun, which has got some stairmaster bits or St Sebastian, you should be in reasonable shape for it.

Thank you 'oursonpolaire'
The train does sound like you get a great view.
In 2012 I took a bus from Burgos to BCN and I found that a bit of a slog.
This 'stairmaster' word I see now and again., is daunting. But I guess, just stop and rest if the knees get wobbly?
Most of the post agree that the walk from Irun is beautiful, so it is definitely going to be Irun start for me too!
I need to start with my eyes open though, so thanks for dropping in the 'physically challenging ' reminder.
Left ,right, left, lol. Thank you
Annie

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Annie,

I'd suggest starting in Irun, as it is a great day of walking to San Sebastion. As mentioned above, you can stay at the alberge there and the yellow arrows begin outside the door. There is no need to decide on the Primitivo or stay on the Norte until you are on the walk itself. After the first two weeks of the Norte it gets much easier, if you are tired then stick to the Norte, if still up for mountains then head down the Primitivo. 43 days should be plenty time to walk, don't worry about not being young and fit, I'm in my mid fifties and not fit at all, but managed to haul myself into Santiago in a little less time than that. If you do get tire or need to go slower, you can always hop a bus for a stage or two. You'll have a great time, buen camino!

Hi Malcolm
From reassurance taken from my forum friends, definitely starting in Irun. Thank you .
Day 1 walk to San Sebastián sounds lovely. One thing I've learned about the Camino, you don't have to have any set idea about accommodation or where you'll stay on the way, it evolves as sure as night follows day. It's also good not to be locked in. I feel more comfortable though knowing where I'll sleep on my first day, although with Irun, if I go to the alburgue,then I probably can't book there? That one is not so daunting though. Is the alburgue centrally placed? Would they accept,you if you taxi'd there from the airport ?

I'm really getting excited discussing the actual plans!

Thanks for the encouragement Malcolm, as long as I'm awake to anything happening within and without ; rest and hydrate, and take care of THE FEET. , ill have happy feet and I'll be a happy pilgrim.

Ta
Annie

 

[jpflavin1]

I've been dithering for months now, so wondering if anyone would mind sharing their thoughts or experience.

I'll arrive BCN after midday 30aug. Planning to stay there 2 nights and get myself to the Norte.
I have tried rome2rio, but would like pilgrim input if possible.

Q1. Any accomm recommendations?


Q2
From BCN. Fly to San Sebastián / start there. ( any accommodation recommendations?)
Or from San seb then bus to Irun. & Start there. ( accomm rec ? Ditto )

I won't worry about accomm once started but like to have the first night sorted.

Q3
From BCN. Train to Irun


Probably comes down to personal choice with mode of travel, but would like to know if anyone taking the train thought it was a good way to see Spain too? Less time required to be there before take off but longer on route.

Q4
The primitivo has had some terrific threads and it sounds glorious. So I'm very temped to go that way when the decision is required .. too many lovely choices. Can you steer me in the right direction please?

If you have any input or thoughts I"d really appreciate it,
I have 6 weeks

Annie

Annie:

I would recommend you catch the 15:30 train to Irun from Barcelona Sants the day of your arrival. This way you will get all your major traveling out of the way that day. Once in Irun you can decide on how much acclimation you need before starting. I took the train in 2011 before walking the Vasco (tunnel route)which also starts in Irun. The train ride will provide you with a good view of the Spanish countryside. Also an opportunity for a nap.

Get a hotel reservation the first night and spend the next day finding the Albergue and the route out of town, sometimes confusing. Spend the second night in the Albergue and pick up your credential if you do not have one. Start walking the next day Aug. 2nd.

The first week is tough so do not feel as if you need to walk standard etapas. There is a place to stop in Pasajes de San Juan several people have talked about (Mike Veasy) as being nice. Orio is a possible 2nd night stop. Beautiful Albergue right on the Camino.

You have 46 days so that should be plenty of time. There are many options on this route almost daily. I tended to stay along the coast. Not sure what threads you have read but there is a lot of good information, imo, from this years Spring group.

When you get to Villviciosa is when you make the decision to go south to Oviedo and the Primitivo or Continue west on the Norte. The Northern route turns south and away from the coast in Ribadeo upon entering Galacia.

The Primitivo is a nice walk through the hills. Lots of up and downs with lush valleys, mountains to the south and less road walking than the Norte. The Norte has beautiful scenic ocean views. Both routes are great walking.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks Joe
Your ideas are appreciated.

Irun looks to be a place worth a good look so would be sensible to sort myself our there. Rest day or rather a gentle warm up day. Did you enjoy Irun?

Catching 15.30 train from Barcelona Sants station would be a tight squeeze, getting from airport, with eta of 13.40 /with possibility of unscheduled delay from Oz., so I would either catch that train next day or fly up. I'm looking at availability and times now for each.
It's good to read about shorter possible stages at the beginning and your recommendation for the night at Orio .

Yes the spring walkers gave a lot of feed back. I've read so much , one does forget some if it, though I recall clearly that you were just a short distance in front of Neve (shefollowsshells ) in many posts on the Norte at that time . It was like watching you both from above !

I won't ask about the Vasco (tunnel route). I didn't realise it was a different 'way ' - but I won't confuse myself with more choice right now. I'll let that happen as I go ! Ha ha
Annie

 

[Terry Lee]

Hi Annie!

My Norte-Primitivo route was intentional. However, I was prepared to go full Norte, because I brought my 66yo mum along!
The 39 days I took was following my mum's pace. So no worries, your 43 days is more than sufficient.

Just start on the Norte and when you get near Villaviciosa, decide then if you want to go Primitivo. You won't go wrong with either route.

A note, the 30km before Bilbao (from Gernika-Lumo to Bilbao) would be your first long league. So plan on staying 1 extra day to rest up. Which is good, since Bilbao is really a nice place.

Now, my 39 days ends in Santiago, I didn't walk to Finsterre, so if you intend to walk that 3 days to Fins, then you need to use your 2 days you planned for Barcelona.

 

[jpflavin1]

Thanks Joe
Your ideas are appreciated.

Irun looks to be a place worth a good look so would be sensible to sort myself our there. Rest day or rather a gentle warm up day. Did you enjoy Irun?

Catching 15.30 train from Barcelona Sants station would be a tight squeeze, getting from airport, with eta of 13.40 /with possibility of unscheduled delay from Oz., so I would either catch that train next day or fly up. I'm looking at availability and times now for each.
It's good to read about shorter possible stages at the beginning and your recommendation for the night at Orio .

Yes the spring walkers gave a lot of feed back. I've read so much , one does forget some if it, though I recall clearly that you were just a short distance in front of Neve (shefollowsshells ) in many posts on the Norte at that time . It was like watching you both from above !

I won't ask about the Vasco (tunnel route). I didn't realise it was a different 'way ' - but I won't confuse myself with more choice right now. I'll let that happen as I go ! Ha ha
Annie

Annie:

I did not sleep in Irun. I arrived at the train station 2:00pm and started walking. I have found walking upon arrival until the evening helps me get over Jet lag. I am sufficiently exhausted that after eating I just crash for the night.

The Barcelona Sants station is a very short cab ride from the airport, less than 10 minutes. Actually I was following Neve until Villaviciosa when she went south to Oviedo for two days and I kept on towards Aviles. We finally connected for a couple of days in Abadin. Then she went on ahead when I stopped in Miraz.

The Vasco is an 8-9 day walk through Basque country. It starts gently through the valleys of the Coastal cities. Then climbs in Zegema 1100 meters and back down into Vittoria-Gaitz and the wine country of Brinas and Haro. It is a nice walk but very solitary in regards to other Pilgrims. It connects to the Frances in either Santa Domingo de Calzada (Cathedral with the chicken) or Burgos.

The Norte is a great walk. I am sure you will enjoy. When you get near Bilbao, you should connect with Mendiwalker. He lives there and will walk through with you or recommend place to stay. He is a forum member. I had breakfast with him the morning I walked through.

If I can assist in anyway, feel free to PM me.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[whariwharangi]

Hi to you Whariwharangi
You're great with info. Re from airport San Sebastián (hondarribia). I gather you could get a taxi to Irun rather than into San seb?
I wouldn't attempt to walk from the airport (traffic ).

I once tried a virtual walk using Google Earth. There are sidewalks ... so walking the 3 km from the airport to Irun Renfe Station is viable.

Taxi from airport to Irun would be significantly lower cost than taxi to San Sebastian.

1407 Irun Urban Buses

Urban bus service is provided by AUIF including bus service that connects from bus stops located in vicinity of Irun Renfe Station to SNCF Gare d'Hendaye. Ekialdebus connects from bus stops located in the vicinity of Irun Renfe Station to San Sebastian and San Sebastian Airport.

AUIF
http://www.auif.es/inicio/

Ekialdebus
http://www.ekialdebus.net/inicio/?lang=es

 

[whariwharangi]

2303 Barcelona Airport

Barcelona Airport (BCN)
http://www.aena-aeropuertos.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-Barcelona/en/Home.html

There is a shuttle connecting Terminal 1 to Terminal 2.

Connect from Barcelona Airport to Train Station - Sants - with Renfe Cercanius/Rodalies from Terminal 2. The train runs every 30 minutes. Time to Barcelona Sants is 22 minutes.

There are several bus companies providing service direct from Barcelona Airport. See the Airport website transport and access.

2304 Getting around in Barcelona

Shuttle Bus from Airport to Barcelona Center
http://www.aerobusbcn.com/

Transportes Metropolitans de Barcelona Bus Network
http://www.tmb.cat/es/home

Autobuses Metropolitanos
http://www.amb.cat/s/home.html

Barcelona Metro
http://w110.bcn.cat/portal/site/Tur...0854371550VgnV6CONT00000000000RCRD&lang=es_ES

Renfe Cercanius/Rodalies Barcelona Light Rail
http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/cercanias/barcelona/index.html

Ferrocarril GenCat Light Rail
http://www.fgc.net/esp/index.asp

 

[MKalcolm M]

Hi Malcolm
I feel more comfortable though knowing where I'll sleep on my first day, although with Irun, if I go to the alburgue,then I probably can't book there? That one is not so daunting though. Is the alburgue centrally placed? Would they accept,you if you taxi'd there from the airport ?

The alberge is central, it took me about five minutes to walk there from the station. I didn't make a reservation, just turned up. They probably have an overflow or know of alternatives should it be full, but given how late in the season you are starting, I doubt it will be. The hospitalero didn't ask how we got there, its a starting point for many walkers, so most turn up via bus, train or taxi. There are shops just across the road for food and a kitchen to prepare it in, or local eateries if you prefer to eat out. Buen camino!

 

[oursonpolaire]

Thank you 'oursonpolaire'
The train does sound like you get a great view.
In 2012 I took a bus from Burgos to BCN and I found that a bit of a slog.
This 'stairmaster' word I see now and again., is daunting. But I guess, just stop and rest if the knees get wobbly?
Most of the post agree that the walk from Irun is beautiful, so it is definitely going to be Irun start for me too!
I need to start with my eyes open though, so thanks for dropping in the 'physically challenging ' reminder.
Left ,right, left, lol. Thank you
Annie

I well remember a Lebanese/Canadian pilgrim who was (IIRC) 78 and had two artificial knees. He was slower than the rest of us-- about 12km-15km each day -- but of the group of about a dozen of us who headed off from Oviedo, he was one of the six who made it into Lugo. The two Catalan chicas had collapsed from knee trouble, the two Italians in their 20s had taken the bus, and the couple from Lugo took a taxi for the last stage. He told me that he started early and looked around at everything and made a point of greeting everyone he met. I would recommend that you be very very flexible in your schedule, and just take it one step at a time.

 

[oursonpolaire]

Annie-- if you're doing a first day out of Irun, you might want to think of stopping at Pasajes de San Juan-- a little village 17km out of Irun. It is a further 8km and a ferry ride and a climb or two to Saint Sebastian and I wonder if that might not be a very long and dire first day. Pasajes has a delightful little albergue and would be a good stopping place.

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks 'oursonpolaire' for ideas to shorten first day '. From where I'm sitting here at home, I'm not anticipating wanting to gallop to San Sebastián. I'm conjuring a picture of a beautiful walk, so really want to savor the coast line, and (especially in my first week ), I'll be doing easier distances until I feel stronger. (Flexible was your word - good one ). Annie

 

[OzAnnie]

Malcolm
Thanks
I might just 'wing it' with accommodation in Irun and hope for room at the inn. (Alburgue ). If full,I'm sure they'll point me to a hotel or something. Neve also mentioned a nice spot and hr and half out of Irun and on the way.
Annie

 

[shefollowsshells]

Hi Neve
I know what u mean about not being fresh in your mind (re the little place outside Irun). My short term memory needs help a lot !!!!
However, I have been re reading Norte posts a lot while researching , plus re reading your blog. It really is a good one. On that u mention the 'little place near Irun'. I remember reading it on the weekend. So could be there or the albergue. I could still look about Irun and get there in time.

BCN is the Airport abbrev for Barcelona . I booked flight entry there, thinking of doing a little of the aragones as well., but that was being too greedy. Too much transit time and would I would have had to short-change my northern route. As u say. Another time
I've got to order my guide today. I think you used the Cicerone guide ?

Great to hear from u Neve
I've just bought a 2nd pair of footwear !! Still Keens but not goretex lined and not boots.
The other recent purchase was Keens boots (goretex lined) and they have been irritating my ankles a lot . I didn't want a re-run of last years swelling if I can somehow guard against it


Funny isn't it. - I still have worries about things even though I'm hitting the trail for 3rd time.

Annie

I don't know where the Aragones is, I must look that up!
I do know that the French gentleman that I walked with my last two weeks or so said it is the most stunning of all the Camino walks.
He spends about 90 days a year walking the various Camino routes. So interesting that he has no idea forums such as this exist yet has Camino'ed more than anyone I have ever heard of. His passion for the Camino is huge! I was curious where this Aragones was and now you have reminded me to find out

Can't wait to cheer you on for your Camino!
Neve