- Time of past OR future Camino
- Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
You will find the new Albergue in Oseira to be exceptionally nice, but I didn't do any laundry there, so can't comment on the stone basin.
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You will find the new Albergue in Oseira to be exceptionally nice, but I didn't do any laundry there, so can't comment on the stone basin.I'm also looking forward to seeing the new albergue in Oseira.
I seem to be one of the few people who really liked the old albergue at Oseira, a huge and rather beautiful tithe barn. Haven't stayed in the new one (yet - it was still shut for covid last time I walked the Sanabrés, in November 2021), but the 4 or 5 times I slept in the old one (mostly in late November and December) I was always the only person there, and the brother hospitalero (the artist Fray Luis de Oseira, chatty as every Trappist monk I've ever met) put me in the snug little cabin-like room on the left by the entrance.You will find the new Albergue in Oseira to be exceptionally nice
I love old monasteries and would have been interested in staying in the old one, but never had opportunity. When I'd heard the old albergue was "no longer" and had been replaced with a new building, I was disappointed. At least I got to take a tour of the monastery and go to vespers.I seem to be one of the few people who really liked the old albergue at Oseira, a huge and rather beautiful tithe barn.
That would never happen to me. When if I get around to walking the Sanabrés I'll have to make sure to check out where you got 'too many' pimentos.pimientos de padrón. There were so many that I have enough for dinner too!
I still have the little painting of Jesús that Fray Luis gave out to all the pilgrims taking the tour of the monastery. Does he still do that?I seem to be one of the few people who really liked the old albergue at Oseira, a huge and rather beautiful tithe barn. Haven't stayed in the new one (yet - it was still shut for covid last time I walked the Sanabrés, in November 2021), but the 4 or 5 times I slept in the old one (mostly in late November and December) I was always the only person there, and the brother hospitalero (the artist Fray Luis de Oseira, chatty as every Trappist monk I've ever met) put me in the snug little cabin-like room on the left by the entrance.
We assembled in the "store" where they sold beer, honey, etc. to pay for the monastery tour in May 2024. There were about eight of us gathered and unfortunately we were never offered any paintings.I still have the little painting of Jesús that Fray Luis gave out to all the pilgrims taking the tour of the monastery. Does he still do that?
This was in 2013.We assembled in the "store" where they sold beer, honey, etc. to pay for the monastery tour in May 2024. There were about eight of us gathered and unfortunately we were never offered any paintings.
I wasn't familiar with him by name, but I do know about the encyclopedia. It seems he founded the publishing company that published it. What an honour for you to meet him, and right in front of the house where he was born and grew up!I edited my post. He is the editor, not the author.
I thought the exact same thing!I wonder if it's strange for him to see that plaque with his own face every day. I always imagined that those types of plaques were erected only after the person had died.
I really enjoyed that bar. We arrived on a warm, sunny afternoon and had a glass of white wine outside the bar. We made a reservation for dinner at 8:30pm as the owner has only a few tables inside and we knew it would be getting chilly by then so we returned after vespers. We opted for the €25 splurge on dinner and it was wonderful! Each course was special and quite different than what we had usually been eating elsewhere on the Sanabres.The surroundings have changed a bit, the only previous bar has closed and there is now a new restaurant/bar which I assume caters to tourists, definitely not pilgrims with their Menu del Día for €25! They even refuse to make a bocadillo ("I didn't study to do that") and have their diplomas from the University of Santiago hanging on the wall!
Me, too, and all of her photos bring back my own very recent memories.Love the photos
I, at some stage, want to continue the Mozarabe (I only got as far as Cordoba) and then onto VdP, so am following with interest.Me, too, and all of her photos bring back my own very recent memories.
Cea was a nice surprise with its upscale looking renovated main street and beautiful town square with the tall tower clock surrounded by many lovely flowers.
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We stayed overnight at "Casa Manoso" in town as 22km was enough for me in a day. It is an Old World looking, classy renovated property and our ensuite room also had a sitting area. We had breakfast the next morning at the same quirky, kitchy bar as @LTfit had stopped at. I really liked the clever bottles turned into light fixtures hanging from the ceiling in her picture.
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Leaving Oseira, that rocky steep uphill often in a rather wet stream bed had me going much slower than my usual slow speed as I didn't want to slip and possibly break a limb, even with good visibility. Once it "ironed out" quite a bit later, we stopped for a drink and home-made tortilla filled with veggies on the way to Castro Dozon. I "think" the albergue there may have re-opened, but we'd made a reservation in Botos a couple of months earlier and was happy to end our day there at "A Taberna de Vento Hostel" after walking 21 km. We had a lovely room in their building next door and the dinner was excellent. In fact, they asked us what we'd wanted to eat without any menus, so it was "custom made" with our input. A younger waitress translated for us to the owner lady/cook. They were kind, attentive and treated us very well.the terrain was quite rocky and steep in sections so it was not ideal even though I had a head lamp. In fact I went much slower due to poor visibility . Oh well.
If she ever needs a second new hip she will have super bionic legs and increase her daily kilometers to 50+ total each day!So, Lee are you going to make it from there to Santiago in one go? I wouldn't put it past you...moving right along as you are.
You'll just have to wait and seeSo, Lee are you going to make it from there to Santiago in one go? I wouldn't put it past you...moving right along as you are.
Nope. Closed. It looked like a ghost town when I went through at about 8.30.Leaving Oseira, that rocky steep uphill often in a rather wet stream bed had me going much slower than my usual slow speed as I didn't want to slip and possibly break a limb, even with good visibility. Once it "ironed out" quite a bit later, we stopped for a drink and home-made tortilla filled with veggies on the way to Castro Dozon. I "think" the albergue there may have re-opened,
I was hoping for a coffee in Botos (I recognized the place from years ago) but it was closed. In front of the door to the bar section there was a pail and mop and in the entry to the hostal there were key boxes which made it look uninviting.but we'd made a reservation in Botos a couple of months earlier and was happy to end our day there at "A Taberna de Vento Hostel" after walking 21 km.
Glad you had a nice stay there.We had a lovely room in their building next door and the dinner was excellent. In fact, they asked us what we'd wanted to eat without any menus, so it was "custom made" with our input. A younger waitress translated for us to the owner lady/cook. They were kind, attentive and treated us very well.
It seems codes with key boxes are on the rise for private accomodations along the Caminos in more recent years, and I do have mixed feelings about them. On the one-hand, you let yourself in when you arrive, which is often more convenient than waiting around for the owner to show up, but lacks the personal touch of someone to greet you, hopefully with a smile and a few instructions.in the entry to the hostal there were key boxes which made it look uninviting.
Ummmmm. With your pack? That's a mighty good hip they gave you! So great. (My ankle would be screamingThe long downhill into Ponte Ulla. I now know why I didn't remember it from last year, it's because I jog down. Did so again today. It took me exactly 14 minutes to arrive at the bridge.
I guess I should have jogged zigzagging down that long hill, instead of just walking very fast letting gravity pull me since I injured my knee by the time I was at the bottom...ouch.The long downhill into Ponte Ulla. I now know why I didn't remember it from last year, it's because I jog down. Did so again today. It took me exactly 14 minutes to arrive at the bridge.
The trick, at least for me, is to bend my knees as I'm sitting. Apparently this takes the load and shock off the knees. When I can I also zigzag.I guess I should have jogged zigzagging down that long hill, instead of just walking very fast letting gravity pull me since I injured my knee by the time I was at the bottom...ouch.
My backpack is only 30 liters and quite light. I actually bought it because it remains closer to my body than my previous 36 liter Osprey with a external back. It would sway back and forth when jogging downhill.Why am I not surprised?
Well done, Lee, well done.
Ummmmm. With your pack? That's a mighty good hip they gave you! So great. (My ankle would be screaming. )
I have a 36 liter Osprey Sirrus with an external back. It is 7 years old, very robust and quite heavy. I've never jogged wearing it, but I have considered replacing it with a lighter weight model; something to consider.My backpack is only 30 liters and quite light. I actually bought it because it remains closer to my body than my previous 36 liter Osprey with a external back. It would sway back and forth when jogging downhill.
Why am I not surprised that the original idea about shorter stages was not going to make it past day 1! And now you can head out to the coast with those extra days. Just be sure not to find any stray dogs that tempt you with their wagging tail and sweet eyes.Day 13 July 8, 2024
Silleda - Santiago 40+ km
And you know all about that!Why am I not surprised that the original idea about shorter stages was not going to make it past day 1! And now you can head out to the coast with those extra days. Just be sure not to find any stray dogs that tempt you with their wagging tail and sweet eyes.
May I ask what brand of poncho do you have? I am surprised your backpack gets wet underneath a poncho, in addition to the cover, which usually at least helps. I line my pack with a very sturdy white trash compactor bag, so no worries, even if my pack gets a bit wet eventually as it is exposed since I use a rain jacket.At one point you just don't care anymore, everything is wet even though you have a poncho on and your backpack a rain cover (which was useless).
The poncho I'm using now is of China Bazaar quality. I took it because it's light and compact plus I was afraid that my good one with sleeves would be much too warm in the summer. The poncho was between my backpack and me, not over the pack since I thought my backpack cover would be sufficient.May I ask what brand of poncho do you have? I am surprised your backpack gets wet underneath a poncho, in addition to the cover, which usually at least helps. I line my pack with a very sturdy white trash compactor bag, so no worries, even if my pack gets a bit wet eventually as it is exposed since I use a rain jacket.
Grf. No fun. May your weather be much better!This time not so well and it collected water at the bottom
Now after completing the stage, I read in Gronze that there is a path along the river. I just followed the arrows and an app I have (the one of Antonio Retamosa and Gerald Kelly). If @wisepilgrim or @geraldkelly know something about this stage please let me know. Oh well. A hot shower and a clara made me feel better.
Good for you! The Sanabrés in October should be lovelyHave thoroughly enjoyed following your progress, whets the appetite for when I leave Zamora in October with my two new knees, many thanks!
I never booked as I always stayed in municipal albergues. There are so few walking that it's really not necessary in the summer or fall, at least in my experience.Another thoroughly enjoyable report. I hope to walk the Sanabrés, starting from Salamanca, towards the end of September. Did you book accommodation ahead? Are there places where it's a good idea to book?
Gronze says this is a temporary closure, do you have any more info?If wanting to stay in Puebla de Sanabria you will need to book because the albergue has closed
From what I've heard, it's been closed for a few years, at least a Polish pilgrim said that it was also closed 2 years ago. A pity, I've stayed in Casa Luz twice on previous Caminos.Gronze says this is a temporary closure, do you have any more info?
I'll take it as good advice: "I always pack up my backpack the night before". Thanks!Day 10 July 5, 2024
Xunqueira de Ambía - Ourense 22.5 km
Last night at least until 19.30, there were only 3 of the in the albergue, the Spanish/Swedish couple I had met while walking and myself. At 19.30 when the hospitalera appeared to stamp our credentials an extremely scruffy man also entered the premises. The hospitalera was reluctant to sign him in but since he had a credential, there was no other option. When he left to go shopping the hospitalera told me to move to the dorm with the couple and that we should call the Guardia Civil if there is a problem. No incidents to report,
I've been having an awful time sleeping and wake up constantly. By 4 a.m. I'm wide awake. So as not to disturb the others, I always pack up my backpack the night before and sneak out of the dorm by 5.30. I'm usually out the door by 6.15 and today was no different. Once again I had the whole Camino to myself.
After a few ups and downs the rest of the way was one long gradual downhill. How cool would it be on a bike! After 3.7 km in A Pousa (before 7 a.m.) and 8 km there were open cafés. I choose to wait till 15 km. At 19.5 km I finally saw the Peugeot dealership building which was the sign to take a left and follow the Paseo Fluvial into the city (you see the sign right after the turn). The path was almost 2 km long, first dirt then mostly of sand. At one point it becomes a harder surface (improvement?) and I had to cross over to the other side. The river is now on your right. I followed Alan's instructions and took it to the end. The Albergue de Peregrinos was in fact 700 meters from that point.
It was only about 10.00 when I arrived (the albergue opens at 13.00) so I wandered about town and treated myself to my first tostada con tomate y aceite. Simple pleasures.
While sitting at a café across from the albergue Ramón appeared, a pilgrim I met in Lubián and was also in A Gudiña. I hadn't seen him for 2 days since he took the Verín variation but then took a bus this morning to Ourense. Nice to see a friendly face. We shared a washing machine and dryer (second luxury of the day) and I joined him for lunch. I wasn't really hungry but had one of my favorites - pimientos de padrón. There were so many that I have enough for dinner too!
Ourense is quite a lovely city but it's known for its microclimate. It's warm, 35 degrees
The couple arrived later and since then three cyclists from Barcelona.
All is well. Tomorrow to Oseira and it's monastery.
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Turn left here
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Sign
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Plaza Major
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Albergue de Peregrinos. Great location! There are many floors and many stairs but there is a lift if necessary.
Yes! The bedrock that will carry you far and wellI start each Camino without expecting anything more than walking, eating, sleeping and washing my clothes when necessary
Now I've finished my notes based on your valuable daily reports and enjoyed your excellent pictures. Thanks for your support and wishing you good health and more exiting caminos.Hi all,
I'll be closing off this thread by making a few last comments which reflect on how I experienced the last stages of the Plata and the Sanabrés compared to my previous times walking the same route.
Firstly, it's still a wonderful Camino to walk in spite of the changes due to the construction of the AVE. The terrain is quite varied so there is something for everyone. My personal favorite was from Lubián to A Gudiña and not my previous favorite to Lubián due to changes caused by the AVE construction (walking along the N-525 in parts and concrete slabs for trucks I assume).
Secondly, there were fewer pilgrims than in previous years although the time of year was the same in two of the Caminos. We were never more than 7 (in A Gudiña) and that included cyclists. Usually there were about 4-5 walking. The make-up was also different. Except for one Spanish man from Lubián on, I never saw the same pilgrims. Every night I met new pilgrims whom I would never see again, the exception being 2 Catalan women I met in Xunqueira then again in Santiago after I had walked to Finisterre and back.And only once did I see a pilgrim while walking and that was because he left the albergue about an hour before I did.
Whereas in previous years a small group of 4 or 5 pilgrims walked the same stages as I did creating a nice group - NOT a Camino family (I cringe at that term), this year's pilgrims were walking much shorter stages. Was this due to more accommodation choices or just the make-up of those walking? I believe the later. And take this as an observation rather than a judgement or criticism. Ramón, the gentleman who shared stages with me from Lubián to Santiago was disappointed in this respect. I wasn't but that's because I start each Camino without expecting anything more than walking, eating, sleeping and washing my clothes when necessary.
This Camino was essentially a test for my hip and I'm pleased how my body reacted to the stress of walking combined with the varied terrain. I can now look forward to planning a completely new Camino for next year.
Thank you all for joining me along this Camino and happy planning your next one.
Ultreia
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