LIVE from the Camino New Hip on an "Old" Camino

[LTfit]

This afternoon I arrived in Zamora to start the Vía de la Plata/Sanabrés to Santiago de Compostela. This will be a test for my new hip which I received in March . I've walked this section of the Camino before, hence the title.

Many other Forum members walked the Sanabrés this spring so I'm not sure if I can be of any help but I'll probably post anyway.

It's quiet in the Albergue de Peregrinos tonight with I believe only 2 rooms occupied. I have a room to myself as I'm the only woman. Maybe I'll be lucky and get a good night's sleep. I hope so since I've been up since 3 a.m. this morning to catch a 7 a.m. flight to Madrid then train to Estación Chamartín (what a mess and an hour delay) then on to Zamora.

Send good vibes that my hip treats me well. Starting tomorrow!



It still amazes me - a café con leche in the Plaza Mayor for €1.50.

The volunteer Dutch hospi asked if I spoke English and I said sure, and Spanish, French and Dutch. He wasn't expecting that!

 

[VNwalking]

Send good vibes that my hip treats me well. Starting tomorrow!

Will do! (Loving your photos already, gracias!)

 

[Purky]

I first thought that walking the Vía de la Plata/Sanabrés was, for some reason, suddenly very cool and fashionable and I wondered if I had somehow missed the memo and the marketing campaign. But you actually have a new hip, got it. Sending good vibes, buen camino!

 

[trecile]

It's quiet in the Albergue de Peregrinos tonight with I believe only 2 rooms occupied. I have a room to myself as I'm the only woman

Twice on the Invierno I stayed in albergues which had two rooms, and despite the fact the the only other pilgrim in each was a man they put us both in the same room.

 

[lovingkindness]

Fuerte peregrine!

 

[lesmac]

All best wishes for your walk. I arrived in Zamora on the VdlP in April 2023 and remember a very busy albergue and a memorable communal meal. I loved the whole walk and look forward to some more memories being revived!
Buen camino

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Twice on the Invierno I stayed in albergues which had two rooms, and despite the fact the the only other pilgrim in each was a man they put us both in the same room.

Matchmaking....

 

[VNwalking]

Matchmaking....

Thanks, but no thanks.

 

[OldHands]

Twice on the Invierno I stayed in albergues which had two rooms, and despite the fact the the only other pilgrim in each was a man they put us both in the same room.

This was the reason why I left the albergue La Almazara, and walked 6 km more to Villafranca de los Barros on VdlP.

Being a gentleman, I didn't want a young German girl feel unsafe sharing a small room with a stranger in the middle of nowhere (those who stayed in La Almazara know what I mean). There were many empty rooms but the owner (Portuguese lady) insisted on the two of us sharing one room.

She said I could pay more to be in a separate room, but I said, no. I got my money back, and before I left, I said to the owner (in Spanish), Susana, if you keep running your business like this, you will lose it.

(...)
Sorry, Susana. Sorry, Pilgrims.

Albergue TurÃstico La Almazara · Las Bodegas, S/N, 06220 Villafranca de los Barros, Badajoz, Spain

âââââ · Lodge

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[alexwalker]

...
She said I could pay more to be in a separate room, but I said, no. I got my money back, and before I left, I said to the owner (in Spanish), Susana, if you keep running your business like this, you will lose it.

(...)
Sorry, Susana. Sorry, Pilgrims.

Albergue TurÃstico La Almazara · Las Bodegas, S/N, 06220 Villafranca de los Barros, Badajoz, Spain

âââââ · Lodge

maps.app.goo.gl

The link you provided says it's permanently closed...

 

[mla1]

Happy walking @LTfit !
How’s the temperature?

 

[peregrina2000]

I know you love the heat, but I’m hoping the weather gods give you nice cool temps.

Buen camino, LT!

 

[Elle Bieling]

Good luck and enjoy your new hip!

 

[LTfit]

Happy walking @LTfit !
How’s the temperature?

It is about 30c degrees. Now in the lovely donativo in Fontanillas de Castro.

 

[jpwu]

This afternoon I arrived in Zamora to start the Vía de la Plata/Sanabrés to Santiago de Compostela. This will be a test for my new hip which I received in March . I've walked this section of the Camino before, hence the title.

Many other Forum members walked the Sanabrés this spring so I'm not sure if I can be of any help but I'll probably post anyway.

It's quiet in the Albergue de Peregrinos tonight with I believe only 2 rooms occupied. I have a room to myself as I'm the only woman. Maybe I'll be lucky and get a good night's sleep. I hope so since I've been up since 3 a.m. this morning to catch a 7 a.m. flight to Madrid then train to Estación Chamartín (what a mess and an hour delay) then on to Zamora.

Send good vibes that my hip treats me well. Starting tomorrow!

View attachment 173022
View attachment 173023
It still amazes me - a café con leche in the Plaza Mayor for €1.50.
View attachment 173024
The volunteer Dutch hospi asked if I spoke English and I said sure, and Spanish, French and Dutch. He wasn't expecting that!

I have two new hips. In 2022, we walked a 2500 km Camino. At the moment, we are doing the Francès. Everything went and is going smoothly. I hope the same for you.

 

[SlowCamino2024]

Will do! (Loving your photos already, gracias!)

 

[SlowCamino2024]

Hola,
You CAN do this!
BTW: I had both replaced five years ago same day and i am planning
to do the Frances in the fall!
Buen Camino!

 

[LTfit]

Zamora- Montamarta - Fontanillas de Castro 31.6 km

I guess one could say that I wasn't very sensible today . The original plan was to walk to Montamarta only 19 km from Zamora but in the back of my mind I actually wanted to reach Fontanillas where there is a donativo albergue run by a lovely Spanish couple. They have been here now for three years and have made the already nice albergue a bit cozier.

The reason I also wanted to stop here is because I volunteered at the albergue back in February 2020 right before the closing of Spain due to Covid. In the two weeks there I had only 9 pilgrims staying at the albergue. Little did we know what lay ahead!

So back to today. The volunteers in Zamora had prepared the table for breakfast the night before. There was even a basket of fruit! I had my usual coffee, took a banana and a magdalena for on the road and left at 6.30. I don't usually eat breakfast (big mistake today). By 10.00 I was already in Montamarta for a coffee stop. I met a German who had started in Valencia after completing 800 km of the PCT! He was stuck in Kennedy Meadows due to snow so rather than hanging out there he decided to walk the Camino (not his first). He asked if he could walk with me for a while so after 2 coffees and a banana we were off. He proceeded to talk for two hours about the PCT and how I could definitely walk it He had only seen 3 or 4 pilgrims on the Levante and I believe was hungry for company.

All was well until about 28 km, hip was perfectly fine, hurray! Then going up a slight incline I started to feel light-headed and nauseous and my heart rate was racing. I had what they say in Spanish a bajón. I had to stop to rest! I believe that it was a combination of no breakfast, not enough water and the heat. Lesson learned. The last 3 km to Fontanillas were slow with frequent stops due to my high heart rate. I let the German continue as he was planning on walking all the way to Granja, about 43 km. My first clara con limón in the bar in Fontanillas was very welcome.

Now well rested and clean with my clothes hanging out to dry.

Lessons learned today:
1) have some breakfast
2) drink more water
3) put on my hat as soon as the sun comes out!

So yes, 13 years walking Caminos and each and every time is different.


Donativo spread

Cool mural leaving Zamora.

Landscape the whole way. Luckily mostly dirt paths.

In Roales de Pan

Square in Montamarta. Due to the water level we had to cross via the highway.


A much needed refreshment!


I'll post some pictures of the albergue later.

Thanks everyone for your encouragement

 

[VNwalking]

Then going up a slight incline I started to feel light-headed and my heart rate was racing.

Oooo, that's an awful feeling. Happy to read that you're feeling OK now.

I believe that it was a combination of no breakfast, not enough water and the heat

I had this happen twice (two days running) this last April - the light-headedness, without the racing pulse. Both times it was about 10:30 AM; I'd had breakfast the second day, but not so much the first. Both days were cool, the second day downright chilly. But maybe not enough water anyway. The light-headedness was scary, whatever caused it.

 

[LTfit]

Oooo, that's an awful feeling. Hope you're feeling much more normal now.

Thanks, now fine. I've had this once before on the Plata. It was a very hot day July 2011 and I was on my way to Monesterio. I believe I stopped at least 5x during the last 5 km and even took a nap in the shade.

We've had awful weather in The Netherlands up until the day I left for Madrid so my body needs to acclimate to the heat.

 

[VNwalking]

I edited my post, with a bit of a backstory. Yucky feeling. Fortunately you're headed into mountains soon, and it'll be cooler up there.

 

[LTfit]

The light-headedness was scary, whatever caused it.

And nausea plus a heart rate of 155. My body was definitely telling me something.

 

[VNwalking]

The second day I was afraid I'd faint, so I sat down first - ate something salty and took some big swigs of water - eventually it came right. But with nausea, and a pulse like that? Aiyiyi. Take care peregrina!!

 

[Opa Theo]

This afternoon I arrived in Zamora to start the Vía de la Plata/Sanabrés to Santiago de Compostela. This will be a test for my new hip which I received in March . I've walked this section of the Camino before, hence the title.

Many other Forum members walked the Sanabrés this spring so I'm not sure if I can be of any help but I'll probably post anyway.

It's quiet in the Albergue de Peregrinos tonight with I believe only 2 rooms occupied. I have a room to myself as I'm the only woman. Maybe I'll be lucky and get a good night's sleep. I hope so since I've been up since 3 a.m. this morning to catch a 7 a.m. flight to Madrid then train to Estación Chamartín (what a mess and an hour delay) then on to Zamora.

Send good vibes that my hip treats me well. Starting tomorrow!

View attachment 173022
View attachment 173023
It still amazes me - a café con leche in the Plaza Mayor for €1.50.
View attachment 173024
The volunteer Dutch hospi asked if I spoke English and I said sure, and Spanish, French and Dutch. He wasn't expecting that!

I've had 2 knee replacements and 1 hip replacement. In August I get my remaining hip replaced. The technology is wonderful. Physical therapy after surgery is crucial for success. Buen Camino!

 

[JanosB]

Zamora- Montamarta - Fontanillas de Castro 31.6 km

I guess one could say that I wasn't very sensible today . The original plan was to walk to Montamarta only 19 km from Zamora but in the back of my mind I actually wanted to reach Fontanillas where there is a donativo albergue run by a lovely Spanish couple. They have been here now for three years and have made the already nice albergue a bit cozier.

The reason I also wanted to stop here is because I volunteered at the albergue back in February 2020 right before the closing of Spain due to Covid. In the two weeks there I had only 9 pilgrims staying at the albergue. Little did we know what lay ahead!

So back to today. The volunteers in Zamora had prepared the table for breakfast the night before. There was even a basket of fruit! I had my usual coffee, took a banana and a magdalena for on the road and left at 6.30. I don't usually eat breakfast (big mistake today). By 10.00 I was already in Montamarta for a coffee stop. I met a German who had started in Valencia after completing 800 km of the PCT! He was stuck in Kennedy Meadows due to snow so rather than hanging out there he decided to walk the Camino (not his first). He asked if he could walk with me for a while so after 2 coffees and a banana we were off. He proceeded to talk for two hours about the PCT and how I could definitely walk it He had only seen 3 or 4 pilgrims on the Levante and I believe was hungry for company.

All was well until about 28 km, hip was perfectly fine, hurray! Then going up a slight incline I started to feel light-headed and nauseous and my heart rate was racing. I had what they say in Spanish a bajón. I had to stop to rest! I believe that it was a combination of no breakfast, not enough water and the heat. Lesson learned. The last 3 km to Fontanillas were slow with frequent stops due to my high heart rate. I let the German continue as he was planning on walking all the way to Granja, about 43 km. My first clara con limón in the bar in Fontanillas was very welcome.

Now well rested and clean with my clothes hanging out to dry.

Lessons learned today:
1) have some breakfast
2) drink more water
3) put on my hat as soon as the sun comes out!

So yes, 13 years walking Caminos and each and every time is different.

View attachment 173100
Donativo spread
View attachment 173101
Cool mural leaving Zamora.
View attachment 173102
Landscape the whole way. Luckily mostly dirt paths.
View attachment 173103
In Roales de Pan
View attachment 173104
Square in Montamarta. Due to the water level we had to cross via the highway.
View attachment 173105
View attachment 173106
A much needed refreshment!
View attachment 173107

I'll post some pictures of the albergue later.

Thanks everyone for your encouragement

Thank you for your report.
I am keen on listen your every sentence because I'm a newcomer and I will do the same route at the end of August.

 

[ginniek]

Please add to your very short-term plans a short visit to a health care professional. Especially because your heart was involved. And while it may be cool in the mountains, you know that higher altitude alone can cause problems. I know that you know all these themes, but I'm still concerned for you.

 

[LTfit]

Please add to your very short-term plans a short visit to a health care professional. Especially because your heart was involved. And while it may be cool in the mountains, you know that higher altitude alone can cause problems. I know that you know all these themes, but I'm still concerned for you.

Thank you for your concern and suggestion but I do believe that it was a combination of factors. During the short rest breaks during the last 3 km my heart rate quickly dropped down from 155 to 115 and last night my resting heart rate was 54. Let's see what today's walk brings.

 

[LTfit]

An update about yesterday's walk:
It has been 11 years since the last time I walked from Zamora and you definitely see that the Camino path and landscape has changed due to the construction of a highway and high passes crossing railroad tracks. At times I thought that I was on a new Camino. Otherwise it's pretty uninspiring but luckily almost entirely on dirt paths.

 

[LTfit]

Spoiler: no health incidents today

Day 2 Fontanillas - Faramontanos de Tábara - Tábara 37.1 km ( 40 km total per my Garmin)

Last night there were only 2 of us in the albergue besides the hospitaleros Ángela and Paco. A young German is biking the entire Vía de la Plata starting in Sevilla. He talked decent Spanish having spent his Erasmus year in Spain.
Paco fixed us a lovely pasta and salad dinner. By 21.30 we were off to bed!

Last night and early this morning there was thunder and rain. By 6 a.m. it had fortunately stopped. After (yes!) some toast and coffee I hit the road by 6.45.

Much has changed over the past 11 years since I've walked this stage. I remember walking on quiet dirt paths through cereal fields after Riego del Camino but now there is an autovía with loud trucks and several over or underpasses. Luckily Paco gave me a link to Antonio Retamosa's page (he runs the Spanish Vía de la Plata Facebook Page) which showed me how to follow an alternative path
taking me to the oldest Monasterio Cisterciense, Santa María de Moreruela avoiding Granja (I'll post the link shortly): https://viadelaplataelcamino.blogspot.com/p/mapas-de-las-etapas.html?m=1
Actually a great tool, shows where you are on the Camino.

Although I've visited it twice, I was looking forward to seeing it once again. I arrived by 9.00 but the gates only open at 10.00. Last time I jumped over the stone wall but it looked much higher than I remembered and I didn't want to push my luck. Oh well. Definitely worth the detour for those walking this route.

Weather was until about 10.00 a.m. a cool 17 degrees with clouds and a nice wind. That didn't last long. The sun and hat then came promptly out.

The landscape was varied, much more than yesterday, at least after getting away from the autovía. Dirt paths meandered through cereal fields and the occasion oak trees which gave some welcome shadow, at least until about 7 km before my much needed stop at a bar Faramontanos (after 29+ km).

During the last 14 km the wind had all but disappeared and the sun was beating down. By the time I reached Tábara it was 33 degrees.

All in all I'm pleased that my mini sun stroke of yesterday (or whatever that was) did not reappear. Tired yes for sure but no hip pain so I guess I would call today a success.

The next few days will be much shorter, at least according to my initial planned stages!




Path after Riego


No way to take a decent picture from the outside but believe me (google Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruela) it's worth the detour.

After the bridge you take a left which takes you up and around to this:

The view after the climb. Doesn't do justice.


On route to Faramontanos de Tábara


Faramontanos de Tábara


Tábara

 

[peregrina2000]

I am so glad all is well. I had a suspicion that you wouldn’t be keeping to your shorter stages. I totally agree with you about the church/monastery at Granja de Moreruela. The view of those apses behind the main altar is a place to sit and reflect. I think it’s just beautiful, and the last time I was there I had a picnic lunch all alone waiting for it to open up. The inside is well worth a visit, because there are hidden inscriptions all over the place, which the guide will point you to if interested. So many mysteries!

Onward, amiga!

 

[VNwalking]

Woooow. Beautiful.

Spoiler: no health incidents today

Good to read this! I was wondering how it went for you today.

 

[C clearly]

Last time I jumped over the stone wall but it looked much higher than I remembered

Isn't that funny! As adults, when we return to childhood places, we often find that houses and walls are smaller than we remember. Then, at some point, the reverse happens and we find that the walls and hills are again presenting bigger obstacles!

 

[mla1]

That monastery is so cool! Mostly I remember the gazillion storks living there!

Clearly you have rehabbed your hip pretty well! Glad all went well today. I still have no idea how people walk in the summer!

 

[LTfit]

Thanks Laurie for posting those pictures! It is such an amazing site to visit. I guess next time I'll need to bring a step stool to get over the wall

 

[LTfit]

Day 3 Tábara - Santa Marta de Tera
23 km (+3 km detour)

I'm not sure how I manage it, but whenever I decide to walk a shortish stage I always manage to make it longer. Today was no different. Maybe that's why no one walks with me

Last night we were 5 in the donativo run by my Camino friend Jose Almeida. He took over the muni 10 years ago, the year after my first Plata. I subsequently stayed with him twice. He is also the initiator of the albergue network on the Camino Portuguese Zamorano. Since my last visit October 2013 there have been quite some improvements - no more bunk beds and new bathrooms. Actually a whole new addition has been constructed.

There was a couple from Barcelona who started yesterday in Granja, a Polish man who started in Almería and a Korean who I know nothing about as he speaks only a bit of English.

The weather was perfect with cloud cover and a slight wind. Actually the whole day was fine weather wise although the sun made an appearance and it's now 28 degrees.

Due to either having my head in the clouds or unclear signs I managed to find myself off the official Camino route. Since I had no desire to turn back I opened up the 2 Plata apps I have and plotted out a new route which after a 3 km detour led me back to the Camino. From there on if was smooth sailing. At one point you can take the route to Bercianos de Valverde or to Villanueva de Las Peras. Since the later has a bar I took that route. Much to my disappointment the bar was closed.
Thus no coffee until right before Santa Marta de Tera.

Note regarding the Camino from Villanueva to Santa Marta:
WHen standing in front of the bar there is an arrow to the left taking you to an asphalted road. There is also a sign to the left going straight. Take that one if you want to avoid the asphalt. After a few minutes on concrete the path becomes dirt. There will be NO arrows for about 2 km. Keep going straight until a crossing (there are a few before, don't take them!) with a mojón to your left. This is where you meet up with the path from Bercianos de Valverde. You take a left there and continue on. The rest of the way is well marked. I'm personally all for avoiding asphalt when possible.

Santa Croya de Tera, the town right before Santa Marta, has a bar and a mini supermarkt where you need to resupply if you want to cook in the well stocked albergue kitchen in Santa Marta.

Of course you can't miss a visit to the famous Iglesia de Santa María almost next door to the albergue. That's also where you sign in and get a code to enter the albergue. Behind the church where the cemetery is located you will see the oldest sculpture of Santiago. And take a look at the tombstones. Most were way into their 90's or older when they deceased. I mentioned this to the woman in the church and she commented that it must be the water!

Not many pictures taken today. I'll post a few of the church when I go to visit later this afternoon.


Outside Albergue de Peregrinos in Tábara

Paths pretty much like this all day.


One section with signs of fire.


Leaving Villanueva de Las Peras


Intersection after the long stretch without arrows


Town hall of Santa Croya de Tera


First coffee stop after 20+ km



Sign outside the church

To be continued

 

[LTfit]

The "tour" visit to the church which was actually first a monastery then the summer residence of the Bishop of Astorga is really worth the €2 entry fee. I visited it 11 years ago but forgot most of the history.

It's interesting to note that the church is personally owned by the Bishop of Astorga Who also owns the Gaudí Palace in Astorga.

For those not familiar, during the summer and winter equinox a light beams through a small circular window in the church. Apparently the acoustics are fantastic so it is also being used for concerts.

The priest responsible for Sunday mass has a total of 18 parishes. Obviously there is no weekly mass.

 

[VNwalking]

The priest responsible for Sunday mass has a total of 18 parishes. Obviously there is no weekly mass.

Wow. What a workload. Obviously not!

Apparently the acoustics are fantastic so it is also being used for concerts.

You didn't try them out by singing?

 

[mla1]

The post-20 km coffee is a wonderful thing!