I am back in one piece from the Invierno again.
Waymarking is much improved. It is still a long way from the almost constant yellow arrows along the Frances, but that is one of the charms!
I did not get lost this time, not even once. The hiking was quite strenuous, one of my seasoned companions likened this trail to the Camino Primitivo in its uphill and downhill aspect. (snow is not a real consideration, as the area is mostly riverine microclimate. Palm trees are growing up there!) Now that I am home again, I am doing a very thorough update of the CSJ Guide, this time with lots more telephone numbers and info. on the polideportivos available as well as 3 or 4 casas rurales and albergues set to open along the Invierno within the next month or so. Things are picking up out there!
Most striking is how this route is so poorly named... You really cannot do it comfortably in Winter, at least not until more accommodation opens in the remote areas, and the trail is better conditioned for wet weather. It would be so much better if named the Via de las Viñas, perhaps -- it is lined almost front to back with vineyards. And beehives. And slate mines. It is very beautiful, and very Galician.
I have the text of my update pretty well finished. I hope to add a full set of GPS tracks, and maybe even elevations, soon as my compañeros get back to the Netherlands and upload their info. Meantime, anyone who has a pressing need for the "beta" version of the update, please contact me directly -- I am holding up the CSJ for a little while until I get those maps!
Rebekah