Need a little more help

[Sedona2012]

I just received my Northern Camino guidebook today! In starting to read the book I have a few questions I am hoping the Norte Pilgrims can answer.

1. It looks like I will need to stay in some Youth Hostels. Do I need to purchase a membership to be eligible to stay the night?
2. I am departing around May 30th. Do I need to book ahead for any Hostel/Pension stays?
3. How difficult is it to manage following the way markers? I am never as good with the written directions and I am always trying to read and walk ☺
4. Are water fountains fairly frequent like the CF or further apart?
5. Any thoughts on Water bladder vs. water bottles?


Any help, much appreciated.

Bobbie

 

[SYates]

I haven't done the Camino del Norte - yet - so I will only comment on this

... 5. Any thoughts on Water bladder vs. water bottles?
...

I personally prefer a simple PET bottle, like those you can buy soda in. Easy to clean, to refill, to replace and to see how much water you have left over. Imo water bladders are responsible for quite a bit of the tummy upsets on the camino due to the fact that you can't clean them easily, SY

 

[MikeJS]

I walked the Norte in Sept last year so my answers are based on that time of year. In Jun it may be a little busier.

No membership required for youth hostels.
In most places there are lots of places to stay and the albergues were plenty big enough. However, the Miraz section is limited. Always worth asking about the next days hike when you stop for the night either in the albergue or at the tourist office.
Way markers are mostly very good although I did miss them twice! I always use google maps with mhy phone’s gps if i get lost!
I vote for bladder all of the time. With the bladder you WILL drink regularly and often - which is critical when walking in the heat. With a bottle you will invariably put of drinking until a ‘more’ convenient point!

 

[travelingteacher]

I am hiking the Norte this summer, however, i have used a bladder for many miles on the AT. I agree that you tend to drink more and I make myself drink it empty when I come to another water source before I add water.

I received my guidebook yesterday, as well, and even with many AT trail miles under my feet, I never thought of about how the guidebook would be different than I am used to. If you got the Cicerone guide it gives an indication of the waymarking for each stage. I think I am going to write the directions down on days the guide indicates could be difficult. Then if I am just looking at a card with only directions I will not be distracted by the book. Writing also creates another pathway to memory. A card will also be easier to pull from my pack side pocket without stopping. Another good reason to take the bladder is so your side water bottle pockets are empty for "walking stuff"-stuff you need but don't want to stop to get out.

Buen Camino

 

[mspath]

travelingteacher,

Since MikeIan mentioned the Miraz section of the Norte in his response I should just like to stress the pleasure of visiting and/or staying at the Sobrado dos Monxes monastery on that stage. This Cistercian complex is a Baroque masterpiece and should not be missed. The hours are 10:00 - 13:00 and 16:30 -20:00. There is both a pilgrim albergue in a renovated stable and a more traditional hospederia. In March 2007 I walked up from Arzua; no other pilgrims were about and it was freezing! Don't miss evening Vespers. The service then was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. Walls were painted white or natural wood. All was lit by thick candles. The monks wearing their white robes responded in unison. It was a privilege to share such a timeless ambiance. For more info see >> http://www3.planalfa.es/sobrado/

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[Dave]

Bobbie and TT,

I am so glad that the books made it to you! I hope you find them helpful.

Bobbie, I'd recommend approaching the waymarks in the same way that TT is. At the beginning of each stage, you can see whether the markings are reliable or not. There is some variation, for sure. One of the biggest issues that you want to be prepped for, though, is the many alternate routes. Without having the forks clearly on your radar, it would be easy to just follow the first yellow arrow you see, and that could result in a different walk than you might have envisioned.

No major need for reservations, unless you have one place in mind that you really want to stay. You'll have options when you're walking. (The main place I'd recommend it for you is when you hit the Frances, in private albergues, but that's a personal preference.)

That said, given that the albergue de peregrinos in San Sebastian won't be open yet, it might be worth reserving your bed there in advance, just so you know exactly where you're walking to upon arrival. If you stay in the youth hostel Sirena, you'll be walking to the far end of town (great for the next walk, less great for seeing the town). Since this is your first day, it might increase your comfort knowing that everything is settled and confirmed. You might consider a similar approach to Bilbao.

Fountains aren't quite as abundant on the Norte/Primitivo as the Frances, but you still have regular refill opps most days. Be careful on the first day--as is true on the St Jean-Roncesvalles walk, it's easy to run out of water then.

Dave

 

[Sedona2012]

Wow! Huge thanks for all of the replies and help. I sure feel better prepared.

Dave - the book is great and a huge relief to have it in hand.

Buen Camino,
Bobbie

Ps: 11 days and counting!

 

[AubreyL]

Bobbie - I would recommend reserving a bed at Roger's House in San Sebastian. It's a hostel in the old part of town. I think I paid 12 or 16 Euros per night for a bed, and you can't beat the location! I had friends who stayed in the albergue (which is located near the west end of Playa de la Concha) and were disappointed to see how far they were from all the pintxo bars and lively center of San Sebastian.
http://www.hostel-rogers-house.com/

I also reserved a bed ahead of time at the Bilbao Akelarre Hostel. This hostel was clean and nice but it was extremely loud and a bit far from the old town. I would recommend paying extra to stay in a pension in Bilbao. I think it would be worth the extra 15-20 Euros. That being said, it was very easy to ride the metro in Bilbao so even though the hostel is a bit removed, it is easily accessible.

The only place I had a real issue with waymarking was just outside Deba. After you cross the river and head up the steep climb out of town, the main trail has been cordoned off with police tape (this was as of March 26th, 2013). An alternate trail leads you to the left. Yellow arrows appear sporadically and after about a quarter or half a mile you will arrive at a road where you can either go left or right. Go to the right. You will see yellow arrows on trees that have been spray painted over with black. The outline of the arrow is still slightly visible under the black spray paint. Keep following the black spray painted trees up the hill to a paved road. At the paved road turn left and head downhill for about 150-200 meters, then pay close attention as the camino forks abruptly off of the road to the left up a hill to the Ermita del Calvario. My Spanish-speaking friend talked to a local farmer who told him that there was a landslide on the main route and a provisional route was constructed. Some of the locals weren't happy with the provisional route, hence the black spray paint.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I finished the norte on April 20th and am already planning my return to Spain

Here are some of my pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aubretia/c ... 404700858/
I haven't finished uploading or describing my pictures yet, so if you want to see some pictures from the later stages, check back in a few days.
Buen Camino!

 

[Sedona2012]

HI Aubrey,

Thank you for the advice and photos! I have noted your suggestios and warnings in my guidebook.Will also make reservations at the hostel in San Sebastian. Starting to feel better about the waymarkings.
Did you stay in many Albergues or a mixture of Albergues and Hostels?

Buen Camino,
Bobbie

Bobbie - I would recommend reserving a bed at Roger's House in San Sebastian. It's a hostel in the old part of town. I think I paid 12 or 16 Euros per night for a bed, and you can't beat the location! I had friends who stayed in the albergue (which is located near the west end of Playa de la Concha) and were disappointed to see how far they were from all the pintxo bars and lively center of San Sebastian.
http://www.hostel-rogers-house.com/

I also reserved a bed ahead of time at the Bilbao Akelarre Hostel. This hostel was clean and nice but it was extremely loud and a bit far from the old town. I would recommend paying extra to stay in a pension in Bilbao. I think it would be worth the extra 15-20 Euros. That being said, it was very easy to ride the metro in Bilbao so even though the hostel is a bit removed, it is easily accessible.

Buen Camino!

 

[jude588]

Bobbie
I start el Norte may 29 from San Sebastián, your questions and all the responses help a lot- I also get concerned about missing markers
I'm sure we will meet on the trail

 

[Sedona2012]

Hi Jude588,

It looks like I will start walking on the 31st so I will be 3 days behind you as I start in Irun. I still hope I catch you up and we get a chance to meet. Have you done other Camino's? What did you decide on sleeping bag? Did any major factors play into your decision to start in San Sebastian instead of Irun?

I agree, the responses have helped so much; everyone is so very generous on this forum with their advice and knowledge of the Camino's

Thanks!
Bobbie

Bobbie
I start el Norte may 29 from San Sebastián, your questions and all the responses help a lot- I also get concerned about missing markers
I'm sure we will meet on the trail

 

[AubreyL]

Hey Bobbie,
I ended up staying in more pensions and one star hotels than I had originally planned. However, you can do about 90% of the trip in albergues if you'd like. The albergues in the first part of the trip are significantly more expensive than they are near the end (most of Asturias and all of Galicia). Sometimes I opted for a hotel if the albergue was too far out of town or if I really wanted to wash and be able to dry all of my clothes. In most towns and cities you can get an individual room in a one star hotel for 25 Euros or less. I got a few for only 15, and these were nice places in good locations. I had a smartphone so I often took an afternoon break in a bar, looked up a hotel online, and then either called or set up a reservation through booking.com. I had really good luck with booking.com. I made an online reservation a couple hours outside of Gijon and when I got to the hotel they were all ready to check me in. No need to even book a day in advance.

As for waymarking, my one suggestion would be to make out a list of all the towns you'll be stopping in from day to day and what amenities they have. If you read the next day's stage ahead of time you'll know what to expect in terms of waymarking. As I mentioned the only place I had real trouble was just outside Deba. There's also a somewhat confusing section between Soto de Luina and Cadavedo, but if all else fails follow the N-634. The other important thing to remember (if you're a coffee addict like me) is to NEVER pass up an open bar serving cafe con leche if you think you might not see one for a while. Leaving Santillana del Mar I found that all of the bars mentioned in the guidebook were closed I walked for most of the day without coffee, and since I spent most of the afternoon and evening the day before at the Altamira Museum, I didn't go to the grocery store to stock up on food so all I had to eat were two mandarins and a chocolate bar. It was still a great day though. And also remember that when in doubt about which way to turn at a fork in the road, the camino is usually the muddy route headed straight uphill

 

[Sedona2012]

Hi Aubrey,

Loving your photos and now so very excited again to start my adventure! The Camino Frances really spoils you as the way markers and Albergues, bars, stores are all right on the Camino and I never really had to worry or figure out anything. Only got lost once and that was on my way to Finistere, less arrows and I missed one. Ended up going about 12km out of my way before getting back on track.

Oh boy, thanks for the advice about the Cafe con Leche; no one wants to be near me without my caffeine addiction being fed!

I have a smart phone as well. Did you use only Wi-Fi or did you pay for data or???
Did you need your sleeping bag? Mine is supposed to be lightweight but weighs 1.7lbs so still debating on carrying it or not. Did u carry food everyday or just on days without services?

Using a rain jacket and back pack cover vs. Poncho and one pair of long pants and one shorts 1 long sleeve and tank top with fleece jacket. I threw in a lightweight jersey tank dress for evening splurges and scarf. Still working to keep the pack down to 18lb.

Agree about booking.com I used this and Bravofly.com to book flights while in Europe last fall. I booked a bed with Roger's House for my night in San Sebastian will try to stay in the Pilgrims Albergues in Irun. Also trying to figure out my transportation to Irun from Madrid. I arrive at 9am and the bus and train same day do not get you into Irun until after 10pm. Do not like arriving in a place I do not know at night. Thinking of taking bus or train to Burgos or Pamplona, spend night then next day go to Irun. Any thoughts?

Thanks again!
Bobbie

Hey Bobbie,
I ended up staying in more pensions and one star hotels than I had originally planned. However, you can do about 90% of the trip in albergues if you'd like.

 

[jude588]

Hi
I have no camino experience at all. I choose the north route to be near the coast. I am taking a sleeping bag for nights I may not find a bed, for warmth and cleanliness.
Buen Camino

 

[Sedona2012]

I admire you walking th Norte for your first Camino. Have a great time and enjoy each moment!

All the best,
Bobbie

Hi
I have no camino experience at all. I choose the north route to be near the coast. I am taking a sleeping bag for nights I may not find a bed, for warmth and cleanliness.
Buen Camino

 

[AubreyL]

Hey Bobbie,
I had an unlocked iPhone 3g and it was a lifesaver. I read up on internet plans in Spain and decided on Movistar. I found a Movistar store right by my hotel in Madrid and was fortunate enough to be helped by a woman who spoke perfect English and was able to explain the pre-paid plans to me. It was sooo easy to get set up with a prepaid SIM card. You pay 2.35 Euro for a SIM card and under 4 Euros per week for unlimited internet. You get 100mb at full speed and after the first 100mb you have unlimited data but at a slower rate. I never noticed a slower data connection, so either I never went over my 100mb per week or they slow data is still pretty fast. I put a 50 Euro credit on my phone at the Movistar store in Madrid and didn't have to recharge it until almost 4 weeks later. That 50 Euros included data, several local phone calls, numerous text messages, and several international calls. Recharging is also really easy. You can do it at any tobacco shop and most supermercados. All you need to give the clerk is your phone number and the amount you'd like credited. You'll get a text message instantly showing your new credit. If you don't want a data plan, I think you'd do fine with just relying on the wifi in bars and some of the albergues. Many of the bars and restaurants I stopped in had wifi.

It's too bad that you arrive at 9 am because the train to Irun leaves at 8. What about spending a day in Madrid and leaving the next day on the morning train? I found a promotion on the Renfe site and got my ticket for around 35 Euros. The train was cheaper and faster than the bus and much, much nicer.

I carried some food every day because I worked up an amazing hunger! I quickly realized that to stay happy and full of energy I needed snacks to carry with me Usually I would just look ahead in the guidebook and see what my food options were for the next day. However, many of the places mentioned in the guidebook were closed (who knows why) so it was nice to have some extra food in my pack. I also bought some of those little packets of Nescafe instant coffee. I normally wouldn't be caught dead drinkign that stuff but on mornings where you need to leave before the bar opens or if you're served really weak and terrible coffee (in some albergues) then you just add a little Nescafe. Voila!

I also used a rain jacket and backpack cover combination. With the exception of one exceptionally rainy day, that combo did the trick. Between Santander and Santillana del Mar I experienced rain like I've never seen before! It was like walking all day in a shower. I kept thinking it would let up, but it didn't. I ended up buying some plastic garbage bags and wrapping up my sleeping bag and clothes inside my pack. I think if you get the right poncho they can be a great item to have. Unfortunately I saw cheap plastic ponchos discarded and scattered all the way across the camino.

As for a sleeping bag, I was really glad I had one. Mine is a 40 degree down bag that packs down to just over a pound. Most of the places I stayed had blankets, however, whether you'd want to snuggle up in those blankets is another story.

I look forward to hearing about your trip. If I could, I would go back and do it all over again right this minute.

Hi Aubrey,

Loving your photos and now so very excited again to start my adventure! The Camino Frances really spoils you as the way markers and Albergues, bars, stores are all right on the Camino and I never really had to worry or figure out anything. Only got lost once and that was on my way to Finistere, less arrows and I missed one. Ended up going about 12km out of my way before getting back on track.

Oh boy, thanks for the advice about the Cafe con Leche; no one wants to be near me without my caffeine addiction being fed!

I have a smart phone as well. Did you use only Wi-Fi or did you pay for data or???
Did you need your sleeping bag? Mine is supposed to be lightweight but weighs 1.7lbs so still debating on carrying it or not. Did u carry food everyday or just on days without services?

Using a rain jacket and back pack cover vs. Poncho and one pair of long pants and one shorts 1 long sleeve and tank top with fleece jacket. I threw in a lightweight jersey tank dress for evening splurges and scarf. Still working to keep the pack down to 18lb.

Agree about booking.com I used this and Bravofly.com to book flights while in Europe last fall. I booked a bed with Roger's House for my night in San Sebastian will try to stay in the Pilgrims Albergues in Irun. Also trying to figure out my transportation to Irun from Madrid. I arrive at 9am and the bus and train same day do not get you into Irun until after 10pm. Do not like arriving in a place I do not know at night. Thinking of taking bus or train to Burgos or Pamplona, spend night then next day go to Irun. Any thoughts?

Thanks again!
Bobbie

Hey Bobbie,
I ended up staying in more pensions and one star hotels than I had originally planned. However, you can do about 90% of the trip in albergues if you'd like.

 

[Sedona2012]

Thanks Aubrey for all of the help! Trying like heck to find out if my IPhone 4S is locked or not.
Hard to believe I leave in a week. My gear is in my backback and I am ready to go!

I think I will spend the night in Madrid near the station and catch the train the next day. I have never made the time for a proper visit in Madrid so perhaps a bit on the way in and out.

Thanks again,

Bobbie

Hey Bobbie,
I had an unlocked iPhone 3g and it was a lifesaver. I read up on internet plans in Spain and decided on Movistar. I found a Movistar store right by my hotel in Madrid and was fortunate enough to be helped by a woman who spoke perfect English and was able to explain the pre-paid plans to me. It was sooo easy to get set up with a prepaid SIM card. You pay 2.35 Euro for a SIM card and under 4 Euros per week for unlimited internet. You get 100mb at full speed and after the first 100mb you have unlimited data but at a slower rate. I never noticed a slower data connection, so either I never went over my 100mb per week or they slow data is still pretty fast. I put a 50 Euro credit on my phone at the Movistar store in Madrid and didn't have to recharge it until almost 4 weeks later. That 50 Euros included data, several local phone calls, numerous text messages, and several international calls. Recharging is also really easy. You can do it at any tobacco shop and most supermercados. All you need to give the clerk is your phone number and the amount you'd like credited. You'll get a text message instantly showing your new credit. If you don't want a data plan, I think you'd do fine with just relying on the wifi in bars and some of the albergues. Many of the bars and restaurants I stopped in had wifi.

It's too bad that you arrive at 9 am because the train to Irun leaves at 8. What about spending a day in Madrid and leaving the next day on the morning train? I found a promotion on the Renfe site and got my ticket for around 35 Euros. The train was cheaper and faster than the bus and much, much nicer.

 

[AubreyL]

Who is your cell phone provider? If it is AT&T and you've had your iPhone 4s for at least two years (minimum contract length) they will unlock it for you over the phone in a matter of minutes. If you have had it less than 2 years, they won't unlock it. I tried really hard to get them to unlock my 4s but I had only had it for a year. I ended up borrowing my friend's old iPhone 3g which was unlocked and it worked perfectly. Just call up your cell phone provider and see what they can do. Good luck!

 

[Sedona2012]

Thanks again! I will call Verizon today.

 

[cincinnati]

Those are good questions. Can I add one? I've been planing to do the French but I'm now eying the Norte and then dropping down somewhere to get to Sarria to hook up with some people in July. Anybody know the best way to drop down there? And I'd like to do some camping, maybe a lot. Is the Norte any good for that?

 

[Tia Valeria]

.... Leaving Santillana del Mar I found that all of the bars mentioned in the guidebook were closed

When in Santillana we stayed at the Hotel Colegiata as part of our ferry deal and to visit the Altamira museum.
As you leave Santillana the track goes past the back of the Camping. The Hotel Colegiata can be seen just along the road to the right. As far as we could tell they own both the camping/albergue and the hotel. When the camping bar and shop were closed for May Day folk were re-directed to the hotel bar. If other bars are closed it could be worth calling in and asking what is available before taking the track between the Camping and the archway. (Do not continue on the road past the Colegiata after your coffee but go back to the marked way.)

Before actually going to the Colegiata it is worth checking out the cafe-bar-shop at the Camping. There is an albergue sign just before the dustbins in the photo. It points left into the Camping. Turn left again round the front of the main building on your left and the shop-bar entrance is in the centre of that building. Good food and a reasonable shop. As said above, if it is closed, people seem to be sent on to the hotel.