Coleen:
Two points about Lisbon, and one about the way north...
(A)
The exit from the Lisbon International Airport arrivals hall into the public area is very congested with people meeting people. There are limo drivers with those ubiquitous little signs with names on them all jostling for visible positions. Then there are hundreds of normal people...
Two suggestions: (1) PROTECT YOUR VALUABLES - pickpockets are known to frequent this area. (2) BE VISIBLE - Find some way to stick out. On my several arrivals at Lisbon, I did not see people with balloons. You might investigate that, or something bright that your granddaughter can aim for. Good luck!
(B)
On the several days you will stay in Lisbon, consider that Lisbon resembles San Francisco, at least in terrain. Every corner you turn has yet another hill. Powered trams / streetcars are a popular way to navigate the old sections.
When I returned to Lisbon in May, after my Camino, I stayed in the old Alfama district in a wonderful converted convent. It was the Hotel Convento San Salvador, at Rua San Salvador 2. It is a modern, 3 star hotel built into the old convent, and bookable on booking.com. The buffet breakfasts are very good and the service was first rate.
The location is both good and bad. It is in perhaps the most historic area, but inconvenient as you need to walk up hills to get to and from. If you are training, pre-Camino, this is not a bad thing. If, like me, you just walked 634 km TO Santiago, coming back and finding all those hills was a bit of a bummer.
The Cathedral is a short walk away, as is the Church of St. Antonio. Most Catholics do not know that the very popular saint we call St. Anthony of Padua (Italy) was actually born in Lisbon.
(C)
LEAVING Lisbon. The segment from Lisbon to Azambuja is a sprawl of industrial estates and major highways. There is some off-road walking, but not much. Many pilgrims take a CP train to Azambuja, and walk from there. Think of walking into Burgos on the CF, but it takes two full days to get to Azambuja...or a 30-minute train ride...
Once at Azambuja, and heading north, most of the road walking is on what we would call secondary roads. However, to avoid tolls on the "A" network of limited access roads (in Spain they are called autopistas), a lot of truck and construction type equipment use these one-lane in each direction roads. Also, the shoulders / verges alongside the network of national roads (N) are not as wide as usually found in Spain.
In my experience, the typical verge / shoulder on a national route (N-xx) in Portugal is about half a meter from the solid white line to the scrub grass and weeds, fence, guard rail, or building wall in some tight spots. Conversely, in most of my Spanish road walking, I found the verge / shoulder to be in excess of one meter from the solid white line to the scrub grass, etc..
In some places, where walking facing the oncoming traffic is known to be unsafe, the local authorities established Camino alternatives to route you off the path and through the local town or village. These detours continue usually until you pass around the hazardous bit of roadway. In my observation, these detours seem to have more to do with road safety than with Camino related interesting things and places to see or visit...just sayin...not a criticism...
Overall, I found the first segment, until Santarem, to be tedious. Then again, I prefer walking through farm fields, vineyards, and the woods, as opposed to factories and warehouses. After Santarem, the route is more pleasant, at least IMHO. After Coimbra, it gets better. BTW, Coimbra is a great place to spend an extra day. There is a lot to see.
Once you arrive in Porto, everything changes. The route is more balanced, road and off-road walking, the arrows are plentiful and bright. There are even a lot of yellow "x" markers to tell you you are going the wrong way. The folks who maintain this segment should be congratulated. They did a great job.
Depending on the route you decide to take leaving Porto, consider hopping their metro to the edge of the city. Most of the routes leave from the Cathedral. From there, it is a good 8-10 km in any direction, walking on narrow sidewalks or streets to reach the edge of the city. This is not a criticism, just a statement of fact.
After Porto. if you have not yet done so, try to book beds at Casa de Fernanda, in Lugar de Corgo. Check this forum link:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/casa-da-fernanda-lugar-de-corgo.9092/
Fernanda is wonderful. The 12 private albergue beds are single stack (no bunks) and have two separate washrooms. The sleep house is located in her garden. Fernanda feeds everyone, country-style in HER kitchen and her home cooking is fabulous. You need to know where she is, and look for the small yellow and red signs on your left, or you WILL walk right by. Her fruit trees and flowers sometimes obscure the sign.
I think Casa Fernanda is on Facebook, but does not have a website. That is intentional.
You must try to book ahead. Staying here is one of the most memorable things you will do on your Camino. You can tell her Tom said hello. I only had time to stop by for coffee this year. But, she made me promise I would stay with her the next time...
BTW, Casa Fernando is a donativo private albergue. Do be generous...very!
I hope this helps.
(especially the grouchy ones.)
