My Stages on the Zamorano-Portugués June 2023

Joe McDonald · Aug 28, 2023

Sorry for only being able to post this now, but as some of you know, once you come back from seven weeks walking there is a long 'to do list' waiting on the home front.

I had arrived in Zamora on the 10th June after walking the Levante from Valencia. There I stayed in the Municipal Albergue where I was able to get some information on stages and accommodation. I left Zamora on the 11th June and my stages were:-

Zamora - Ricobayo (40km)
Ricobayo - Fonfria (20km)
Fonfria - Alcanices (20.5km)
Alcanices - Quintanilha (24km)
Quintanilha - Braganca (26km)
Braganca - Vinhais (34km)
Vinhais - Edral (20km)
Edral - Verin (34km)

From Verin I walked

Verin -Xinzo de Lima (32Km)
Xinzo de Lima - Allariz (19km)
Allariz - Ourense (21km)
Ourense - Cea (23km)
Cea - Lalin (31km)
Lalin - Silleda (13km)
Silleda - Ponte Ulla (19km)
Ponte Ulla - Santiago (21Km)

Verin to Santiago can easily be done in fewer stages but I had extra days to spare so I just took things easy. ( I've done Ourense to Santaigo in four days in the past)

Joe McDonald · Aug 28, 2023

Stage 1: Zamora - Ricobayo (40km)

It was a Sunday and after a very good breakfast at the albergue I headed off. The weather was good and reached Hiniesta (9km) where I stopped briefly to admire the fine church there. I pushed on to Valdeperdices where I took my first stop to eat some fruit and take a drink. Nothing open here (Sunday), although it states there is a bar and a tienda but I didn't see them.

I had made very good progress but the second half of this stage was much more difficult. There is a large embasse that you have to get round and as I approached it three large dogs guarding a herd of cattle came running towards me, barking. They were on their own and no herdsman about. I dug deep and kept walking forward, following the narrow road. They continued barking and running round me but I kept going. Thankfully after about fifty metres or so they went back to the herd. I was so relieved as I walked on but relief quickly turned to shock when I realised I had missed a turn right at the spot where I has encountered the dogs! I realised I had to go back and confront them a second time. I dug deep and went back. As I approached them started to bark and run round me again. I kept walking and took the right track off the road that I should have taken the first time. Mercifully the dogs calmed down as I moved on away from the herd. Markings along this stage was good but unfortunately at this critical point it wasn't so clear and the dogs didn't help.

From this point it was a long up and down stretches to Muelas del Pan, where I found a cafe to have a beer before the last 3km to Ricobayo. I was pleasantly surprised to fine two bars open (one was a hostal). I had already decided to stay in the albergue on the edge of town as I had rang the day before. I rang the number when I got there (666 361 927) and Manuel arrived very shortly after to let me in. He was very pleasant and helpful. The albergue is very good. Would stay there again. The hostal bar closed in the evening but the other stayed open where I was able to get a meal.

Joe McDonald · Aug 28, 2023

Stage 2: Ricobayo - Fonfria (20km)

I made myself some coffee and took some cake that I had in my bag before setting off. This stage was only half of the first stage but in the mountains you don't do flat. Four climbs, inbetween three deep descents were enjoyed before I reached Cerezal de Aliste (10km) where I stopped for a cereal bar and a drink of water (no services here). A few more ups and downs took me to Bermillo de Alba where I stopped to take on some water before the final push to Fonfria. The key to the albergue is obtained from the ayuntamiento. The albergue is on the upper edge of town and again very adequate. I was able to get food at a bar in the pueblo.

There are no services on this stage so make sure you have provisions onboard.

Joe McDonald · Aug 28, 2023

Stage 3: Fonfria - Alcanices. (20.5km)

There had been a lot of rain during the night so I had decided to stick to the road. It wasn't too busy and it was very easy walking. The weather was fine and good for walking. I soon reached Fornillos de Aliste (6km) where I stopped for tostada and coffee. The remaining 15kms wasn't too demanding. Another good albergue here in Alcanices. The key was actually in the box on the wall outside the albergue. I had gone to the ayuntamiento where the lady told me the key was there. Plenty of services here in Alcanices.

Joe McDonald · Aug 28, 2023

Stage 4: Alcanices - Quintanilha (24km)

Had a simple breakfast in the albergue before setting off. I again stuck with the road. It wasn't that busy and you often have much better views of the landscape. The weather was very good and I enjoyed the walking. At Trabazos (13km) I stopped at a roadside petrol station for coffee and cake. The landscape was improving all the time and the walk into San Martin and across the border into Portugal was really nice. Some guards at the border were very welcoming and wished me bom caminho! A steep climb took me up to Quintanilha. The lady in the small bar there rang someone to bring me to the albergue. A man appeared shortly afterwards and brought me up to the albergue which is situated towards the top of the village. Good shower and beds but no cooking facilities. The bar has a small tienda attached where you can buy some food to see you through. The bar itself didn't provide food on that day (maybe at other times). There is a second bar in the village but it closed that evening.

Kiwi-family · Aug 28, 2023

thanks so much - this is very helpful!
@peregrina2000 this will interest you!

peregrina2000 · Aug 28, 2023

Oh, my this is wonderful, cannot wait to devour every word!

I’m still kind of stuck at Stage 1.

As I posted in another thread, there are wikiloc tracks for a shorter route to Ricobayo, one that does not go through either Almendra or Valdeperdices. It’s 29 km. It would mean cutting out the visit to San Pedro de la Nave, though, which is really a five-star place to go. But visiting the church as a detour off the 40 km route also would be impossible for me!

28 Zamora - Ricobayo de Alba - Camino de Levante - Camino Zamorano Portugues - 28

28 Zamora - Ricobayo de Alba - Camino de Levante - Camino Zamorano Portugues - 28 Hiking trail in Zamora, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. 29,00 km

www.wikiloc.com

I know that lightening rarely strikes twice, but another reason to avoid the longer route are those dogs you described! I have conquered a lot of my dog fear from walking so many untraveled caminos, but this would be a tough one for me.

@Joe McDonald, having done the 40 km route, do you have any opinion on this 30 km one I’ve pasted in above?

Joe McDonald · Aug 28, 2023

@peregrina2000 if I'd been aware of that shorter track to Ricoboya I would have taken it for sure. For me it would have left a lot more in the tank to consider other possible detours. If I'm ever on that camino again its a no brainer for me.

Joe McDonald · Aug 28, 2023

Stage 5: Quintanilha - Braganca (26Kms)

Took a banana for my breakfast in the albergue before hitting the trail. A tough climb out of the village was required to get up onto a reasonable level small road. After about 2 kms the route took me off the road into a very over grown trail that was very wet and difficult to get through in some places and no enough arrows. It was getting hot and the flies were everywhere. A very unpleasant 10 kms of trail combined with about a 300m climb. When I reached Palacios I was hoping somewhere was open but sadly not. When I spoke to a farmer he told me there was a restaurant 2 km further along the road. I was so relieved to reach it and enjoyed a good rest and some tostada and coffee.

I decided to stay on the road to Braganca. The camino trail would have taken me back into poor tracks and trees with ups and downs and no views. I'm not a road lover but from my experience it's an option one should consider a times. Choosing the road option provided me with the best 10 kms of this whole camino, and I include all the stages from Valencia on the Levante that I had just done. The road slowly meandered down a wonderful valley side with the views of Braganca in the distance. Not too many cars and the weather was the best to date. I put on my ear pods for the first time on this camino and asked siri to play my music. The selection of songs that it gave me, coupled with the spectacular views, and the easy downhill dander was all anyone could ever believe they could experience. It was definitely up there with the best I've ever had. ( I remembered last year on the Norte when I was walking along the coast down into a town a similar experience).

When I reached Gimonde, the end of this fantastic section, I stopped for a fanta and reflected on a wonderful section. Another 7 kms or so was required to take me to Braganca. I checked into a good hotel (Hotel Baixa, 48 euros for a room). I was very impressed with Braganca and the walk up to the castillo is so worth it. There is a nice bar up at it as well. A few vino tintos rounded off a truely great day.

Kiwi-family · Aug 28, 2023

peregrina2000 said:
I’m still kind of stuck at Stage 1.

As I posted in another thread, there are wikiloc tracks for a shorter route to Ricobayo, one that does not go through either Almendra or Valdeperdices. It’s 29 km. It would mean cutting out the visit to San Pedro de la Nave, though, which is really a five-star place to go. But visiting the church as a detour off the 40 km route also would be impossible for me!

What if we made it our mission to buy a couple of yoga mats in Zamora, carry them to Valdeperdices and leave them there for future pilgrims? I'm not sure anyone ever uses the hall - it was so filthy and there was not even a broom so we made do with a handleless mop to shift the dust off the stage before putting our bedding down. I doubt anyone would take the mats if we left them with a wee sign.
It would be such a pity to go that way and miss San Pedro.

Joe McDonald · Aug 29, 2023

Stage 6: Brananca - Vinhais (34kms)

Got a breakfast at 6 30am in a cafe close to the hotel. A climb was again required to get out of Braganca and then a descent before another push upwards. I eventually got onto road . There was a steady climb from around 600m up to 850m for a few kms. When I reached Castrelos I expected a bar but nothing there ( or opened!). It was hot and I took an orange and some water. I pushed on with a descent back down to 600m and then another climb, descent and a very long climb up to 800m. It was a tough day out. Some fantastic views - up in these mountains you have amazing panorama but you pay for it in sweat! I eventually reached Vinhais.

I had unfortunately received an update regarding a new albergue that had opened in Vinhais but I had already a reservation in the Hotel Vinhais (28 euros). I made a point to check out this albergue. I have to say it is probably one of the best I've seen in all my caminos. It has everything and the views from it are outstanding. You get the keys in the ayuntiamento just beside it on the main road through the town. Don't go anywhere else. The location of Vinhais up in the mountains is amazing.

Joe McDonald · Aug 29, 2023

Stage 7: Vinhais - Edral (20kms)

I woke quite early - maybe a little anxious about the uncertainty of the day ahead regarding where I would stay later that evening. I had two choices really. Edral where there was a social centre that pilgrims had stayed in or Segirei ( a further 6.6 kms) where apparently a lady there can provide food and a bed. I was also told that there was no phone signal there either!

I had a good breakfast at my hotel before setting off around 7am. A bit of a climb, a descent (100m) followed by another climb (150m) to reach Soutelo (3.5km). The next small pueblo was 100m down ( Sobreiro ). Nothing opened! From here I climbed (200m) to Aboa (nothing here). The next part of the stage provided a beautiful flat section where the views were amazing. The weather was really good now. When I reached Candedo the bar wasn't opened. Another day where I had no services on the stage. There are 6.5 kms from here to Edral but they involve a very steep descent down a valley to the river bed and a brutal climb back up ( 400m down and 400m up!). The climb was extremely demanding , especially in the heat, and I was very relieved to reach the top.

When I reached Edral the small bar was open and I took on some refreshments. The man who owned the bar took me to the social centre where a lady told me I could take a shower and she would make me some food. Amazing! She had it ready after my shower . I gave her 20 euros and she was delighted. I was happy to know I was sorted for the night. As time passed I sensed that there was a problem with me staying in the centre. Two other ladies had arrived and one of them told me I couldn't stay there and that I would have to move on. This was not what I wanted to hear, especially now that I had showered up and changed for the day, never mind the thought of another walk to somewhere I wasn't sure if accommodation existed ( and no signal). The other lady started to make some phone calls. Time passed without any progress. More phone calls as closing time approached and seemingly no joy. Just as the ladies were closing the centre and I was going to have to leave, a wagon pulled up and a man came over and asked me to follow him. He got back in his wagon and drove off slowly as I followed behind. About 200m I was at an old school house that I had passed on my way in to Edral earlier. He opened it up and showed me to a classroom where a bare mattress was on the floor. He said I could stay there for the night. I was so grateful and relieved under the circumstances. Later I went back to the bar and got a couple of bottles of beer and some crisps to take back to the school house. I sat outside on the bench and enjoyed a lovely evening watching the sun go down. A local lady came by and give me a large bunch of cherries to eat. I thanked her. It's the camino after all!

Joe McDonald · Aug 29, 2023

Stage 8: Edral - Verin (34kms)

I was surprised the wee bar was open at 7am in Edral and I had a coffee for the road. The weather was very good for walking. The stage began with a descent (400m) and then a climb up for the next 10 kms to almost 1000m. When I passed Segirei en route to Vilardevos I tried to look out for where the suggested accommodation was but couldn't find it. I was glad I had stayed in Edral. (It may be there and I certainly would have tried harder if that had been my option). The waterfall at Fervenza da Cidadela is very impressive along this section. After 17 kms I had reached the summit of this seemingly endless climb. I was now back in Spain and stopped at Vilardevos (22kms) for tortilla, fanta and coffee. That give me the fuel to push on to Verin ( another 12 kms). Again some great views along the way.

As most of you know Verin is quite a large town with all services. I booked into Hotel Verin (33 euros) which was well located and of decent quality. I was happy to arrive here as I saw this as the end of the Zamorano and now back in more familiar territory. From here I took another 8 days to reach Santiago (180 kms) although it could be done in 6/7 days if required ( I had the time to take things easy at that stage ).

peregrina2000 · Aug 29, 2023

Joe McDonald said:
I was happy to arrive here as I saw this as the end of the Zamorano and now back in more familiar territory.

All of this is so interesting and so helpful, thanks much. I will have more questions as I delve in deeper, I’m sure!

I’m hoping not to appear ungrateful or greedy, but it would be great if you could continue with these reports up to Ourense. You’ve taken us to the start of the Verín alternative on the Sanabrés, but there is no recent information that I’ve seen on the forum, and your impressions of those days would be super-helpful.

The combination of this thread and @alansykes’ is helping me get off the fence about whether I should walk the Sanabrés again or try the Zamorano next year!

peregrina2000 · Aug 29, 2023

Joe McDonald said:
I had two choices really. Edral where there was a social centre that pilgrims had stayed in or Segirei ( a further 6.6 kms) where apparently a lady there can provide food and a bed.

The list of accommodations I posted on another thread lists the phone number of the place in Segirei. I have whatsapped that number and got the following response:

”Yes there is a place to sleep in Segirei. The house is not mine, but I am in contact wtih the lady of the house. When you want to make the way, I will be happy to help.” (I wrote to her in my butchered Portuguese and she responded in this excellent English).

Phone number for Segirei house - 351 933 222 313

A few years ago, @Bradypus posted about Edral being closed because of covid, so maybe they have never really gotten back into a post-pandemic mindset. In any case, I’m glad it all ended happily for you in Edral!

Joe McDonald · Aug 30, 2023

Stage 9: Verin - Xinzo de Limia. (32kms)

I was able to get breakfast at the cafe next to my hotel (7am) before setting off. I took the main road (N525) as far as Albarellos (5km), nice and flat, where I stopped for coffee! From there I followed the camino trail, which started off flat, but then began to climb. 10kms later I had climbed 500m up to almost 900m to Altodos Estibadas (845m). I had reached roughly halfway for the day and from that point onwards most of the way was downhill or flat. I was grateful for that and for the first time in a long while felt I was out of the mountains. I stopped again at Trasmiras (20km) for tortilla and te. The last 12 kms was on the N525 and took me through a series of small hamlets. In Xinzo de Limia I stayed in Hotel 2 de May02 (25 euros) which was fine.

Joe McDonald · Aug 30, 2023

Stage 9: Xinzo de Limia - Allariz (19kms)

A shorter stage mainly on road. I took the N525 to Sandias (8km). It was nice and flat and not too busy. I stopped there for coffee. You can opt to take the camino trail to Sandias which goes through O Couso which is roughly 10km. From Sandias to Pineira de Arcos you follow the N525 (not too busy). From here you can follow the camino trail or stay on the N525. I was quite surprised by Allariz. The place is lovely and a lot of things to see. I stayed in Hotel O Portelo ( 40 euros) which was great and the lady there was so nice and welcoming. She gave me alot of information about the town and what was happening. The views from the top of the old castle are worth the short hike.

Joe McDonald · Aug 30, 2023

Stage 10: Allariz - Ourense (21kms)

After an excellent breakfast at my hotel I decided to take the N525 for half the stage to Taboadela where I stopped for coffee and cake. This was my 37th consecutive day walking over 1200kms from Valencia and I suppose I was looking for an easier option. If it had been earlier in my camino or I had started from Zamora I would probably have taken the actual camino trail through Turzas and Augas Santas. From Taboadela you leave the N525 and walk mainly on small roads that eventually reconnect with the actual camino that takes you into Ourense.

peregrina2000 · Aug 30, 2023

Joe McDonald said:
If it had been earlier in my camino or I had started from Zamora I would probably have taken the actual camino trail through Turzas and Augas Santas.

Several years ago, I was visiting that area of Galicia as a tourist. Part of that trip included a stop in Allariz and a visit to those places out near Augas Santas. In Allariz, there is a group of young people — architects, historians, naturalists — who have formed a group called Xeitura. I see from their website that they are going strong.

The tourist office in Allariz put me in touch with them to arrange a visit out to Augas Santas. It was a pretty amazing visit — pre-Roman saunas, Romanesque churches, Roman fort, just perfect for those amateurs like me who love this stuff. I remember that @Kanga was in the area and got in touch with them too, and really enjoyed it.

Anyway… for anyone walking this route, the best way to see all of this might be to get in touch with Xeitura for a trip out there on the afternoon you arrive in Allariz. The typical stage into Allariz appears to be a 19 km walk from Xino de Limia, so you would have a good chunk of time available for visits. That way, the next morning when. you walk by Augas Santas, you will not be tempted to spend hours visiting and can high tail it into Ourense to enjoy the city. But it is also easy to incorporate into your camino, as the route goes right by, as @Joe McDonald pointed out. That’s what our pal @alansykes did.

peregrina2000 · Aug 30, 2023

Joe McDonald said:
Stage 10: Allariz - Ourense (21kms)

After an excellent breakfast at my hotel I decided to take the N525 for half the stage to Taboadela where I stopped for coffee and cake. This was my 37th consecutive day walking over 1200kms from Valencia and I suppose I was looking for an easier option. If it had been earlier in my camino or I had started from Zamora I would probably have taken the actual camino trail through Turzas and Augas Santas. From Taboadela you leave the N525 and walk mainly on small roads that eventually reconnect with the actual camino that takes you into Ourense.

Thanks so much for taking us into Ourense, @Joe McDonald. You have really helped me get a good idea about what this camino would be like. It kind of feels to me that it might be similar to the Geira, except with a lot more albergues and fewer large towns. I do love walking in Portugal, and it looks like this route goes through a very pretty part.

peregrina2000 · Oct 2, 2023

Joe McDonald said:
Stage 10: Allariz - Ourense (21kms)

After an excellent breakfast at my hotel I decided to take the N525 for half the stage to Taboadela where I stopped for coffee and cake. This was my 37th consecutive day walking over 1200kms from Valencia and I suppose I was looking for an easier option. If it had been earlier in my camino or I had started from Zamora I would probably have taken the actual camino trail through Turzas and Augas Santas. From Taboadela you leave the N525 and walk mainly on small roads that eventually reconnect with the actual camino that takes you into Ourense.

Wondering if you had some general comments for those of us who are considering this route. Your stages look doable to me, and I am tempted. But I am very indecisive!

Joe McDonald · Oct 15, 2023

Hi Peregrina2000,
Sorry for only responding but I am on the Camino Mozarabe from Almeria to Cordoba at the moment ( wanted to compare it with starting from Malaga). Will be back home at the end of the week and can then consult my notes for that one. Will give you an overview then if that’s ok.

peregrina2000 · Oct 16, 2023

Never let the forum interfere with your camino, that’s my motto. The forum is here so that you can fill those empty non-camino hours with camino-related thoughts and obsessions! Buen camino, @Joe McDonald!

My Stages on the Zamorano-Portugués June 2023

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