I walked the Camino de Levante in May of this year. I would walk it again in a heartbeat.
Guidebook: The Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago in Valencia has published a (heavy) but excellent guide. I would say it is essential, because even though the waymarking is terrific, the guide has great maps and excellent details and info on what’s in each city/town/village you are walking through. Guide is available in either Spanish or English. Contact the association via email at info@vieiragrino.com for information on how to obtain the book (either in person in Valencia or via mail, but be aware that they require a bank transfer).
I kept a blog, http://www.levante2013.blogspot.com and I relied heavily on Andy’s blog, http://pilgrimpace.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-levante/ and of course this forum was a real source of support and help.
General comments:
The waymarking is excellent, except for in some of the small towns. I frequently needed help to find the Camino after entering a town. In this respect, also, the guidebook is essential, because of its detailed instructions. Since you will frequently not be able to find people who are familiar with the Camino, the fact that the guidebook always says things like “walk past the museum of ethnography” means you can just ask for directions to the places the guidebook mentions, since everyone in town will know where the museum is.
There is a surprising number of albergues, many very small, but usually in very good condition and well maintained. Where there were no albergues, I stayed in small pensiones and hoteles, almost always for less than 25 euros.
This is a camino of wide open spaces. Until you hit Zamora, you spend most of your time on flat or undulating land dedicated to one sort of agricultural operation or another. It is castle country.
The Levante has some real treats; in fact, one of the things that makes this Camino stand out is the number of very interesting, sometimes stunning cities and towns. Valencia, Toledo, Avila and Zamora are all well worth a sustained visit. And the small towns of Xátiva, Almansa, Chinchilla, Arevalo, Medina del Campo, Tembleque, San Clemente, Toro, and El Toboso are all places where you can easily fill an afternoon.
The numbers are steadily increasing, at a very high rate, but the total remains small. Many people along the way told us that between last year and this year the increase is quite noticeable. Last year, there’d be a pilgrim or two a week; this year, hardly a day goes by without at least one. I assume that the season is fairly short, April-July, though I often heard that there is always a bunch of hardy summer pilgrims who brave the heat.
Wi-fi is available in nearly every little bar in every little town. I was stunned, actually. Because of my mom’s health, I had been debating whether to cancel my Camino this year. Instead, I bought an iphone the day before leaving in the hope that I would be able to Skype with my parents from the Camino. This eased a huge worry for me, and I was able to talk to them (and usually see them!) almost every day.
Rather than put my lengthy comments into the text of a post, I have typed them up and attach them here. I welcome comments, corrections, and suggestions from anyone who has walked, and would be very delighted to answer questions.
Buen camino, Laurie
And here are my Sananbres stages:
Guidebook: The Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago in Valencia has published a (heavy) but excellent guide. I would say it is essential, because even though the waymarking is terrific, the guide has great maps and excellent details and info on what’s in each city/town/village you are walking through. Guide is available in either Spanish or English. Contact the association via email at info@vieiragrino.com for information on how to obtain the book (either in person in Valencia or via mail, but be aware that they require a bank transfer).
I kept a blog, http://www.levante2013.blogspot.com and I relied heavily on Andy’s blog, http://pilgrimpace.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-levante/ and of course this forum was a real source of support and help.
General comments:
The waymarking is excellent, except for in some of the small towns. I frequently needed help to find the Camino after entering a town. In this respect, also, the guidebook is essential, because of its detailed instructions. Since you will frequently not be able to find people who are familiar with the Camino, the fact that the guidebook always says things like “walk past the museum of ethnography” means you can just ask for directions to the places the guidebook mentions, since everyone in town will know where the museum is.
There is a surprising number of albergues, many very small, but usually in very good condition and well maintained. Where there were no albergues, I stayed in small pensiones and hoteles, almost always for less than 25 euros.
This is a camino of wide open spaces. Until you hit Zamora, you spend most of your time on flat or undulating land dedicated to one sort of agricultural operation or another. It is castle country.
The Levante has some real treats; in fact, one of the things that makes this Camino stand out is the number of very interesting, sometimes stunning cities and towns. Valencia, Toledo, Avila and Zamora are all well worth a sustained visit. And the small towns of Xátiva, Almansa, Chinchilla, Arevalo, Medina del Campo, Tembleque, San Clemente, Toro, and El Toboso are all places where you can easily fill an afternoon.
The numbers are steadily increasing, at a very high rate, but the total remains small. Many people along the way told us that between last year and this year the increase is quite noticeable. Last year, there’d be a pilgrim or two a week; this year, hardly a day goes by without at least one. I assume that the season is fairly short, April-July, though I often heard that there is always a bunch of hardy summer pilgrims who brave the heat.
Wi-fi is available in nearly every little bar in every little town. I was stunned, actually. Because of my mom’s health, I had been debating whether to cancel my Camino this year. Instead, I bought an iphone the day before leaving in the hope that I would be able to Skype with my parents from the Camino. This eased a huge worry for me, and I was able to talk to them (and usually see them!) almost every day.
Rather than put my lengthy comments into the text of a post, I have typed them up and attach them here. I welcome comments, corrections, and suggestions from anyone who has walked, and would be very delighted to answer questions.
Buen camino, Laurie
And here are my Sananbres stages: