- Time of past OR future Camino
- 1989, 2016, 2018, 2023, 2024...
Days 45: Santiago de Compostela to Negreira (Camino Finisterre/Muxia Day 1)
21.75 km
This is a continuation from my Camino de Madrid, my Camino de San Salvador, my Camino Primitivo, and my Santiago de Compostela interlude, which I posted in those sub-forums.
Today I walked with memories. First and foremost, from my Camino seven years ago, with my son Toby, when we walked this same route. But also from the early days of this journey. I know that many people use the additional time of the walk to Finisterre and/or Muxia, a sort of denouement to their Camino de Santiago, to start processing what they've experienced. So I spent some time as well thinking back to the early days of my journey on the Camino de Madrid. Of course, it also struck me that processing the journey was a trifle premature. It isn't quite over yet, as my body was wont to remind me.
Since a breakfast buffet was included at San Martín Pinario and didn't start until 7:30, and it was a shorter walk (just over 20 km) with accommodations already booked, I didn't get an early start this morning, heading out at about a quarter to eight. The way to Finisterre and Muxía is a continuation of what you've been walking, so you follow the path west into the Plaza de Obradoiro through the tunnel and then continue west, past the parador, down the ramp, and on and out of the city. Once you've gone down and crossed the river, and back up the other side you come to a place where everyone stops and looks back, and generally takes a photo of the Santiago skyline with the silhouette of the cathedral towers. I was no exception, both this time and last time I passed by seven years ago.
There were, once again, a lot of little ups and downs today as we crossed streams and rivers and one much more substantial climb about halfway through the day. You'd think that after having completed the San Salvador and Primitivo caminos these would be as nothing to me. But I have to admit that I still notice them. There were the usual forests and pastures, fields and roads. Lots of little villages, one after another. There were a lot fewer cows than earlier in Galicia, though. There was one location, specializing in cattle breeding, that invited pilgrims to come in and take photos and share them on social media. I went in, because my daughter is always up for a cow photo, but I didn't really see anything to photograph, nor any of the cows.
The highlight of the day, from a photogenic point of view, was Ponte Maceira, as it was seven years ago, with its centuries old bridge and waterfalls, about 4 km from Negreira. I hadn't remembered it was so close to the end of my day's walk. I remembered it more in the middle.
The walk wasn't crowded with pilgrims but there were generally a few in view, most of the way. Also with me, as mentioned, in memory, was my son. As I went through places I would remember going through them with him. This was the day he discovered the power of music to help him through the tough slogs. I also thought back to my Camino de Madrid, and especially the people I encountered and connected with:
- the first pilgrims I met on my walk (a couple of Polish boys who probably reached Finisterre a month ago)
- the first pilgrim I saw more than once, meeting her in Coca waiting for someone with a key to the albergue - tough to find! We saw each other every evening at the albergue after that until I went on my first detour and she went ahead. She is due to arrive in Santiago about now. Her Camino has not been without challenges that she has walked with and through. What an accomplishment to complete it!
- Jose Miguel, the first pilgrim I walked with. We walked together until I stopped early at Grajal de Campos and he walked on to Sahagun and Santiago. We are still connected and I hope to see him in Madrid before I fly home
- and of course, the hospitaleros: from Mision Emmanuel, Ray and Rosa, Arturo and his Italian replacement in Puente Duero, and the couple in Santervás de Campos who shared their foid with us.
I got to Negreira at about half past 12 and checked into the albergue, which is nice and modern and well set up. Had a shower. Did a bit of laundry. Went out for lunch. I was once again proved correct in my rule "If any option on the menu includes the word 'abuela' (grandmother), choose that." No one wants to leave the impression that their grandma can't cook. In this case, grandmother's cake was an excellent dessert. Then back to the albergue for a nap and some reading. I went to the supermarket and got some things for a cheap, light, and veggie filled supper. And then I wrote this.
Photos below:
- first mojon on the way out of Santiago
- looking back at Santiago
- Ventosa
- bridge at Ponte Maceira
- waterfalls at Ponte Maceira
- under the bridge after Ponte Maceira
- pilgrim statue in Negreira
21.75 km
This is a continuation from my Camino de Madrid, my Camino de San Salvador, my Camino Primitivo, and my Santiago de Compostela interlude, which I posted in those sub-forums.
Today I walked with memories. First and foremost, from my Camino seven years ago, with my son Toby, when we walked this same route. But also from the early days of this journey. I know that many people use the additional time of the walk to Finisterre and/or Muxia, a sort of denouement to their Camino de Santiago, to start processing what they've experienced. So I spent some time as well thinking back to the early days of my journey on the Camino de Madrid. Of course, it also struck me that processing the journey was a trifle premature. It isn't quite over yet, as my body was wont to remind me.
Since a breakfast buffet was included at San Martín Pinario and didn't start until 7:30, and it was a shorter walk (just over 20 km) with accommodations already booked, I didn't get an early start this morning, heading out at about a quarter to eight. The way to Finisterre and Muxía is a continuation of what you've been walking, so you follow the path west into the Plaza de Obradoiro through the tunnel and then continue west, past the parador, down the ramp, and on and out of the city. Once you've gone down and crossed the river, and back up the other side you come to a place where everyone stops and looks back, and generally takes a photo of the Santiago skyline with the silhouette of the cathedral towers. I was no exception, both this time and last time I passed by seven years ago.
There were, once again, a lot of little ups and downs today as we crossed streams and rivers and one much more substantial climb about halfway through the day. You'd think that after having completed the San Salvador and Primitivo caminos these would be as nothing to me. But I have to admit that I still notice them. There were the usual forests and pastures, fields and roads. Lots of little villages, one after another. There were a lot fewer cows than earlier in Galicia, though. There was one location, specializing in cattle breeding, that invited pilgrims to come in and take photos and share them on social media. I went in, because my daughter is always up for a cow photo, but I didn't really see anything to photograph, nor any of the cows.
The highlight of the day, from a photogenic point of view, was Ponte Maceira, as it was seven years ago, with its centuries old bridge and waterfalls, about 4 km from Negreira. I hadn't remembered it was so close to the end of my day's walk. I remembered it more in the middle.
The walk wasn't crowded with pilgrims but there were generally a few in view, most of the way. Also with me, as mentioned, in memory, was my son. As I went through places I would remember going through them with him. This was the day he discovered the power of music to help him through the tough slogs. I also thought back to my Camino de Madrid, and especially the people I encountered and connected with:
- the first pilgrims I met on my walk (a couple of Polish boys who probably reached Finisterre a month ago)
- the first pilgrim I saw more than once, meeting her in Coca waiting for someone with a key to the albergue - tough to find! We saw each other every evening at the albergue after that until I went on my first detour and she went ahead. She is due to arrive in Santiago about now. Her Camino has not been without challenges that she has walked with and through. What an accomplishment to complete it!
- Jose Miguel, the first pilgrim I walked with. We walked together until I stopped early at Grajal de Campos and he walked on to Sahagun and Santiago. We are still connected and I hope to see him in Madrid before I fly home
- and of course, the hospitaleros: from Mision Emmanuel, Ray and Rosa, Arturo and his Italian replacement in Puente Duero, and the couple in Santervás de Campos who shared their foid with us.
I got to Negreira at about half past 12 and checked into the albergue, which is nice and modern and well set up. Had a shower. Did a bit of laundry. Went out for lunch. I was once again proved correct in my rule "If any option on the menu includes the word 'abuela' (grandmother), choose that." No one wants to leave the impression that their grandma can't cook. In this case, grandmother's cake was an excellent dessert. Then back to the albergue for a nap and some reading. I went to the supermarket and got some things for a cheap, light, and veggie filled supper. And then I wrote this.
Photos below:
- first mojon on the way out of Santiago
- looking back at Santiago
- Ventosa
- bridge at Ponte Maceira
- waterfalls at Ponte Maceira
- under the bridge after Ponte Maceira
- pilgrim statue in Negreira