docpam
Pam
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Aragonese Via Francigena
In 2018 I walked the Aragones from Lourdes in a tour group. In Jaca I fell and broke my leg. I wanted closure on the route and to see why I broke the leg. This diary describes my journey to Jaca and walking to Puenta la Reina.
Friday – 22 July
Travelled by train from Madrid to Zaragoza. Missed the connecting bus to Jaca but caught the next one three hours later. Somewhere along the way I lost my peak hat.
It is hot, 35-40 degrees. Left my jacket and beanie at hotel in Madrid. I may sleep there on my return or I may not. I may find my jacket or I may not. I do not believe I need it on this trip and my bag is full.
I am so impressed with everything Spanish. The railway and bus transport system is superb. People do things at speed, whether it is serving coffee or sweeping. Going out of the country is so essential to get a new perspective on things.
Have just arrived in Jaca. Have left my bag at the albergue. It is so nice to see the normal albergue activity of sleep, wash, eat and sleep. Looking forward to my first day on this interrupted Aragones Camino.
In Jaca first thing is a beer, then find a shop for the peak/hat, then provisions for early departure tomorrow, and then a meal.
Saturday - 23 July – Jaca to Sante Cilia – 15 km
Left Jaca at 8 for the 15 km walk to Sante Cilia. The route was initially gravel farm road which developed into hilly rocky road. It was hot, going up to 33 degrees. Somehow I got lost behind the Aragon hotel, and landed up walking about 5 km on the main road.
On arrival at the albergue, it was open but I found two pilgrims sitting at a bar drinking beers. I joined them. The barman kindly made us egg/tuna rolls. We made our way to the albergue where we washed (only cold water) and hit the beds.
We planned how to get to Juan de la Pena. The albergue did not have the communal dinner as expected and there are no shops in the town. We found a restaurant which made us a meal. Tomorrow the albergue will provide breakfast. Thank goodness for the restaurant. Food appears a problem on day. I drank 6 beers today. Very very hot and dry.
Sunday 24 July – Sante Cilia
From the albergue we took a taxi up to Juan de la Pena. The monastery is built against a mountain. It is old.
Returning to the albergue we ate, and then went to the community swimming pool. The evening was spent at the bar.
Monday 25 July - Sante Cilia to Arres - 11km
Walked from Sante Cilia to Arres, but again got lost. Ended up walking 20 km instead of 10. Thank goodness I was not walking with my backpack as Correos had taken it for me.
Walked up a hill to the albergue right at the top. The hospitalero took us on a tour of the hilltop settlement where everything is old. Saw an old private church, especially unlocked for us. Went to an exhibition on paintings of flowers of the area.
I am now sitting at a magician show. It is outdoors. It is still light. He is speaking all in Spanish which I do not understand. He is working magic with a pack of cards. I guess every person in this settlement has come to attend the show. But I think it is a public holiday as it is St James Day, and families are visiting. The magician has the people in the palm of his hand. Good repartee!
Such a lovely donativo albergue. Barbara had come from Italy to serve.Supper and breakfast were magnificent.
Tuesday 26 July - Arres to Artieda - 17 km
The Camino is about experiences. I have just arrived at the albergue at Artieda. The waitress is deaf and Spanish speaking. Thank goodness for Google Translate.
This camino is very very lonely. In Jaca it was just 6 persons, Sante Cilia 4, Arres 5. When you are walking in heat, with no shade or trees, the loneliness gets to one. Thank goodness I joined a Spanish chap, Victor, for most of today, and we both benefitted.
The reason and place I got lost yesterday was because I missed the sign as I came out of Puente la Reina de Jaca, apparently it is as you cross the Bridge. I walked 5km of the same road today as I did yesterday.
The scenery was most strange today. Huge sandstone, not rocks, but ...
The climb up to Artieda is steep!
At Artieda met Sara who was the only other guest/pilgrim at the hostel.
Wednesday 27 July - Artieda to Undues de Lerda - 22 kms
Left the private hostel of Artieda. There were only 2 pilgrims, myself and another lady. They had prepared a lovely breakfast with packages of food for me to take. Everything was done at night ready for my early morning departure.
Today was a long day. The way marking could be improved. In the 5kms before Ruesta my face and legs were badly scratched and cut by bushes growing over the path. I could not find the path out of Ruesta - eventually went into the hostel, found the guy who pointed out the route. I then started walking the longest hill I have ever met - 10 kms. Very scary when I was not really sure if I was on the correct route. Markers were very absent. Thank goodness for Correos who took my bag.
Eventually I reached Undues de Lerda. The albergue is huge with just 2 lady pilgrims. Had nice lunch/dinner at the bar in the town.
In the dormitory the balcony door is wide open at 21:45. The sun is setting. It is warm. The bunks here are made for children where grownups cannot sit up on the bottom bunk.
This is the strangest Camino. Two days now with no other person in the bar or walking who speaks English, and so few people. Sara not speaking with me.
Undues is a tiny town, on a hill top. Friendly bar man. The albergue is a huge old building which has been fitted out for many pilgrims. Tragic. Just Sara and myself. Was a warm evening, slept with the doors wide open with the most incredible view of the sunset, and in the morning of the sun rise. It was so warm I did not even use the sheet or sleeping bag.
Thursday 28 July - Undues de Lerda to Sanguesa - 10 km
I have forgotten. Must do the diary every evening!
Friday 29 July - Sanguesa to Lumbier - 10 km (landed up being 15 km)
Set off from Saguesa okay. Sara and I walked together and then Sara went ahead of me. I walked slowly but caught up with her because she had stopped. She realised that we were on the wrong track. We did not know what to do. Two local ladies came past and told us that we were on the wrong road. We had to turn around and do another extra 5 km. Sara went on ahead - she was going to Monreal and I was going to Lumbier.
I thought I got lost. I tried to follow the signs, some things I felt were wrong. Eventually I started using Google Map. Google Map told me that to get to Lumbier I had to travel along the highway. It was raining. I had on my black poncho, and me walking around the highway. The police stopped. They wanted to know where I was going and why I was walking on the highway. I tried to explain that's the only way that I knew to get to Lumbier. Well, they took a photograph of my passport, they made me install an app to alert the police of danger, and then tried themselves to find a way to get to Lumbier that wasn't on the highway. They could not. They gave me permission to go along the highway which is what I did for about 5-6 km. Along the way I stopped at a bar for a coffee and bocadilia.
When I came out I again tried to find the right way. I was told to follow the yellow arrows. I got lost again but the police found me - they had been looking for me - they put me on what they thought was the right road. Eventually I got onto the path going through the Foz de Lumbier - beautiful! I saw large birds soaring in the air. It was wonderful, but it was quite a traumatic day being lost. Very grateful for the help from the police and Guardia.
30 July - Lumbier to Monreal - 21 km
I set off from the hotel on the highway, but I must have missed the yellow arrow leading to the path. I walked and walked. At the round about I took the route I thought was correct only ... Then opened Google Map - thought I may as well do the 21 km on the highway. I walked and walked. I got to a town and walked into it thinking it was on the route. But I met a Camino Angel who walked with me about 5 km and put me on the correct path.
I walked through gates, saw cows and horses, and walked and walked. This Way is not as easy as the French or Primitivo. You have to be agile.
Eventually I reached Monreal, full albergue, people who took the main route and myself who took the variant.
Too late for lunch, but had supper in the bar. Met an interesting Hungarian pilgrim. Given up his job as an international banker in Budapest, wants to do something which satisfies his soul. The Afghan and other refugees trying to enter his country, and the borders closed, made him rethink. This is what the Camino is about - meeting people you would never meet in your normal life. I spoke about how I want to continue working to contribute to uplifting.
31 July - Monreal to Tibeas - 10 km (km in Spain is much longer than km in SA)
Had lovely egg and bacon bocadilia for breakfast in bar in Monreal and left the small town at about 8.15. Walked up and down on stony roads and then stony paths. Very difficult terrain. In sun and then shade. Looked at farmers bailing their straw into bales, note on a Sunday! The farmers here WORK. Beautiful fields. At about lunch time ate a bocadilia I was carrying. Today I drank water. I took 500 mls, finished it, drank at a fountain, filled bottle and finished it. At the albergue I drank a coke, and after showering got a beer and potato and tuna salad from the vending machine.
As I walked I talked to ... and thanked Him that my friend is in remission from cancer.
I had no energy today and in hindsight think it is probably because yesterday had no lunch (when I arrived the bar was closed for siesta) and my supper of salad was either too late or missing in starch.
I arrived at 2 in the tiny town of Tibeas, lovely modern albergue. Showered, ate and slept. Tonight only 5 pilgrims. This evening two are sleeping, two have gone to the swimming pool, and I have selected the bar. I have ordered a hamburger as I want protein and starch. The bar is huge but only has about 10 persons (I know 7pm is very early in Spain) who are playing cards.
1 August - Tibeas to Puente la Reina - 17 km
Today's walk was so much better than yesterday's - better food, rucksack taken by Correos and a much easier terrain. Not so much up and down hill with rocks. Breakfast was lovely, even with a note 'Goeie more'. Embarrassment - I did not know how to use a pod in the coffee machine. Wheat fields changed to sunflowers, vines and asparagus. Maybe more shade cover.
Obanos was a total shock to the system. Many young pilgrims going at speed, to reach Puente la Reina or further on. Reaching an alberque in Puente I met noisy pilgrims. Not possible to have an afternoon sleep in the dorm. The noise was a shock to the system.
Tried to get lunch in the 'main' road, only to realise it was the route for all bikers and pilgrims going on their journey. Walked out of one place. Wandered down another, and found a restaurant frequented by locals. I selected the cheapest set menu.
Lunch was roasted pimentos with paprika, and bread; followed by a salad; followed by a plate with dried meat (pigs fed on acorns - huge delicacy) and tiny starch chips; followed by butter bean soup; followed by a huge entrecot and chips; followed by nutmeg ice cream and coffee. Lunch plus a beer, 22 euros.
That evening at the albergue was a time of flies, flying things that bit, and noise. Discussed doing the Bustan or Vadinian routes. Has long chat with retired Spanish social worker about all the refugees coming into Spain from Mali and Senegal. Did not sleep well.
My Aragonese Camino started in 2018 is now completed.
The first part was from Lourdes in France, over the mountains at Somport, in Spain, and I stopped at Jaca when I broke my leg - this was done as part of a tour group. The part just completed was from Jaca to Puente la Reina, solo, following the route found at gronze.com/camino-aragones I did not always walk the indicated distances. This camino is very very different to the popular French Camino and has no similarity to the 2010 movie The Way.
2 August - Puente la Reina to Pamplona
In Puente la Reina walked down to the bus stop and at the scheduled time of 11.27 the bus arrived. The Spanish transport system of buses and trains is superb. Went to Pamplona. Had a coffee and sandwich and then booked into a hotel. It had been a choice between a hotel or an albergue, but I wanted to be alone and get up after 6. So nice to have one own's space. Calm city, not as frenetic as Madrid but maybe it is just where I am having lunch on the plaza.
3 August – Pamplona to Madrid
Took taxi from hotel to Pamplona train station, and caught the train to Madrid. Took taxi to the prebooked hotel, the same one I had used three weeks earlier. Now three weeks ago I left Cape Town in 12 degrees wearing a jacket and beanie, and the plane was very cold and I wore them on the plane. I arrived to 35 degrees in Madrid. I did not plan carrying my jacket and hat across Spain in the heat wave, so I dumped them at the hotel. I did not know what my plans were except that I was flying out of Madrid. Yesterday I decided to spent my preflight night in Madrid, and booked the same hotel. I thought a jacket and beanie would be needed on the plane, and considered replacing those items here, if necessary. I enquired at reception if by chance they had found the clothes and still had them. Hotel Lauria is to be commended. I have those clothes!
Madrid is hot and frenetic. The streets are full of people - it is difficult to believe. My room is over the Via Grande, the door is open and at 23h00 the street is still busy.
Friday – 22 July
Travelled by train from Madrid to Zaragoza. Missed the connecting bus to Jaca but caught the next one three hours later. Somewhere along the way I lost my peak hat.
It is hot, 35-40 degrees. Left my jacket and beanie at hotel in Madrid. I may sleep there on my return or I may not. I may find my jacket or I may not. I do not believe I need it on this trip and my bag is full.
I am so impressed with everything Spanish. The railway and bus transport system is superb. People do things at speed, whether it is serving coffee or sweeping. Going out of the country is so essential to get a new perspective on things.
Have just arrived in Jaca. Have left my bag at the albergue. It is so nice to see the normal albergue activity of sleep, wash, eat and sleep. Looking forward to my first day on this interrupted Aragones Camino.
In Jaca first thing is a beer, then find a shop for the peak/hat, then provisions for early departure tomorrow, and then a meal.
Saturday - 23 July – Jaca to Sante Cilia – 15 km
Left Jaca at 8 for the 15 km walk to Sante Cilia. The route was initially gravel farm road which developed into hilly rocky road. It was hot, going up to 33 degrees. Somehow I got lost behind the Aragon hotel, and landed up walking about 5 km on the main road.
On arrival at the albergue, it was open but I found two pilgrims sitting at a bar drinking beers. I joined them. The barman kindly made us egg/tuna rolls. We made our way to the albergue where we washed (only cold water) and hit the beds.
We planned how to get to Juan de la Pena. The albergue did not have the communal dinner as expected and there are no shops in the town. We found a restaurant which made us a meal. Tomorrow the albergue will provide breakfast. Thank goodness for the restaurant. Food appears a problem on day. I drank 6 beers today. Very very hot and dry.
Sunday 24 July – Sante Cilia
From the albergue we took a taxi up to Juan de la Pena. The monastery is built against a mountain. It is old.
Returning to the albergue we ate, and then went to the community swimming pool. The evening was spent at the bar.
Monday 25 July - Sante Cilia to Arres - 11km
Walked from Sante Cilia to Arres, but again got lost. Ended up walking 20 km instead of 10. Thank goodness I was not walking with my backpack as Correos had taken it for me.
Walked up a hill to the albergue right at the top. The hospitalero took us on a tour of the hilltop settlement where everything is old. Saw an old private church, especially unlocked for us. Went to an exhibition on paintings of flowers of the area.
I am now sitting at a magician show. It is outdoors. It is still light. He is speaking all in Spanish which I do not understand. He is working magic with a pack of cards. I guess every person in this settlement has come to attend the show. But I think it is a public holiday as it is St James Day, and families are visiting. The magician has the people in the palm of his hand. Good repartee!
Such a lovely donativo albergue. Barbara had come from Italy to serve.Supper and breakfast were magnificent.
Tuesday 26 July - Arres to Artieda - 17 km
The Camino is about experiences. I have just arrived at the albergue at Artieda. The waitress is deaf and Spanish speaking. Thank goodness for Google Translate.
This camino is very very lonely. In Jaca it was just 6 persons, Sante Cilia 4, Arres 5. When you are walking in heat, with no shade or trees, the loneliness gets to one. Thank goodness I joined a Spanish chap, Victor, for most of today, and we both benefitted.
The reason and place I got lost yesterday was because I missed the sign as I came out of Puente la Reina de Jaca, apparently it is as you cross the Bridge. I walked 5km of the same road today as I did yesterday.
The scenery was most strange today. Huge sandstone, not rocks, but ...
The climb up to Artieda is steep!
At Artieda met Sara who was the only other guest/pilgrim at the hostel.
Wednesday 27 July - Artieda to Undues de Lerda - 22 kms
Left the private hostel of Artieda. There were only 2 pilgrims, myself and another lady. They had prepared a lovely breakfast with packages of food for me to take. Everything was done at night ready for my early morning departure.
Today was a long day. The way marking could be improved. In the 5kms before Ruesta my face and legs were badly scratched and cut by bushes growing over the path. I could not find the path out of Ruesta - eventually went into the hostel, found the guy who pointed out the route. I then started walking the longest hill I have ever met - 10 kms. Very scary when I was not really sure if I was on the correct route. Markers were very absent. Thank goodness for Correos who took my bag.
Eventually I reached Undues de Lerda. The albergue is huge with just 2 lady pilgrims. Had nice lunch/dinner at the bar in the town.
In the dormitory the balcony door is wide open at 21:45. The sun is setting. It is warm. The bunks here are made for children where grownups cannot sit up on the bottom bunk.
This is the strangest Camino. Two days now with no other person in the bar or walking who speaks English, and so few people. Sara not speaking with me.
Undues is a tiny town, on a hill top. Friendly bar man. The albergue is a huge old building which has been fitted out for many pilgrims. Tragic. Just Sara and myself. Was a warm evening, slept with the doors wide open with the most incredible view of the sunset, and in the morning of the sun rise. It was so warm I did not even use the sheet or sleeping bag.
Thursday 28 July - Undues de Lerda to Sanguesa - 10 km
I have forgotten. Must do the diary every evening!
Friday 29 July - Sanguesa to Lumbier - 10 km (landed up being 15 km)
Set off from Saguesa okay. Sara and I walked together and then Sara went ahead of me. I walked slowly but caught up with her because she had stopped. She realised that we were on the wrong track. We did not know what to do. Two local ladies came past and told us that we were on the wrong road. We had to turn around and do another extra 5 km. Sara went on ahead - she was going to Monreal and I was going to Lumbier.
I thought I got lost. I tried to follow the signs, some things I felt were wrong. Eventually I started using Google Map. Google Map told me that to get to Lumbier I had to travel along the highway. It was raining. I had on my black poncho, and me walking around the highway. The police stopped. They wanted to know where I was going and why I was walking on the highway. I tried to explain that's the only way that I knew to get to Lumbier. Well, they took a photograph of my passport, they made me install an app to alert the police of danger, and then tried themselves to find a way to get to Lumbier that wasn't on the highway. They could not. They gave me permission to go along the highway which is what I did for about 5-6 km. Along the way I stopped at a bar for a coffee and bocadilia.
When I came out I again tried to find the right way. I was told to follow the yellow arrows. I got lost again but the police found me - they had been looking for me - they put me on what they thought was the right road. Eventually I got onto the path going through the Foz de Lumbier - beautiful! I saw large birds soaring in the air. It was wonderful, but it was quite a traumatic day being lost. Very grateful for the help from the police and Guardia.
30 July - Lumbier to Monreal - 21 km
I set off from the hotel on the highway, but I must have missed the yellow arrow leading to the path. I walked and walked. At the round about I took the route I thought was correct only ... Then opened Google Map - thought I may as well do the 21 km on the highway. I walked and walked. I got to a town and walked into it thinking it was on the route. But I met a Camino Angel who walked with me about 5 km and put me on the correct path.
I walked through gates, saw cows and horses, and walked and walked. This Way is not as easy as the French or Primitivo. You have to be agile.
Eventually I reached Monreal, full albergue, people who took the main route and myself who took the variant.
Too late for lunch, but had supper in the bar. Met an interesting Hungarian pilgrim. Given up his job as an international banker in Budapest, wants to do something which satisfies his soul. The Afghan and other refugees trying to enter his country, and the borders closed, made him rethink. This is what the Camino is about - meeting people you would never meet in your normal life. I spoke about how I want to continue working to contribute to uplifting.
31 July - Monreal to Tibeas - 10 km (km in Spain is much longer than km in SA)
Had lovely egg and bacon bocadilia for breakfast in bar in Monreal and left the small town at about 8.15. Walked up and down on stony roads and then stony paths. Very difficult terrain. In sun and then shade. Looked at farmers bailing their straw into bales, note on a Sunday! The farmers here WORK. Beautiful fields. At about lunch time ate a bocadilia I was carrying. Today I drank water. I took 500 mls, finished it, drank at a fountain, filled bottle and finished it. At the albergue I drank a coke, and after showering got a beer and potato and tuna salad from the vending machine.
As I walked I talked to ... and thanked Him that my friend is in remission from cancer.
I had no energy today and in hindsight think it is probably because yesterday had no lunch (when I arrived the bar was closed for siesta) and my supper of salad was either too late or missing in starch.
I arrived at 2 in the tiny town of Tibeas, lovely modern albergue. Showered, ate and slept. Tonight only 5 pilgrims. This evening two are sleeping, two have gone to the swimming pool, and I have selected the bar. I have ordered a hamburger as I want protein and starch. The bar is huge but only has about 10 persons (I know 7pm is very early in Spain) who are playing cards.
1 August - Tibeas to Puente la Reina - 17 km
Today's walk was so much better than yesterday's - better food, rucksack taken by Correos and a much easier terrain. Not so much up and down hill with rocks. Breakfast was lovely, even with a note 'Goeie more'. Embarrassment - I did not know how to use a pod in the coffee machine. Wheat fields changed to sunflowers, vines and asparagus. Maybe more shade cover.
Obanos was a total shock to the system. Many young pilgrims going at speed, to reach Puente la Reina or further on. Reaching an alberque in Puente I met noisy pilgrims. Not possible to have an afternoon sleep in the dorm. The noise was a shock to the system.
Tried to get lunch in the 'main' road, only to realise it was the route for all bikers and pilgrims going on their journey. Walked out of one place. Wandered down another, and found a restaurant frequented by locals. I selected the cheapest set menu.
Lunch was roasted pimentos with paprika, and bread; followed by a salad; followed by a plate with dried meat (pigs fed on acorns - huge delicacy) and tiny starch chips; followed by butter bean soup; followed by a huge entrecot and chips; followed by nutmeg ice cream and coffee. Lunch plus a beer, 22 euros.
That evening at the albergue was a time of flies, flying things that bit, and noise. Discussed doing the Bustan or Vadinian routes. Has long chat with retired Spanish social worker about all the refugees coming into Spain from Mali and Senegal. Did not sleep well.
My Aragonese Camino started in 2018 is now completed.
The first part was from Lourdes in France, over the mountains at Somport, in Spain, and I stopped at Jaca when I broke my leg - this was done as part of a tour group. The part just completed was from Jaca to Puente la Reina, solo, following the route found at gronze.com/camino-aragones I did not always walk the indicated distances. This camino is very very different to the popular French Camino and has no similarity to the 2010 movie The Way.
2 August - Puente la Reina to Pamplona
In Puente la Reina walked down to the bus stop and at the scheduled time of 11.27 the bus arrived. The Spanish transport system of buses and trains is superb. Went to Pamplona. Had a coffee and sandwich and then booked into a hotel. It had been a choice between a hotel or an albergue, but I wanted to be alone and get up after 6. So nice to have one own's space. Calm city, not as frenetic as Madrid but maybe it is just where I am having lunch on the plaza.
3 August – Pamplona to Madrid
Took taxi from hotel to Pamplona train station, and caught the train to Madrid. Took taxi to the prebooked hotel, the same one I had used three weeks earlier. Now three weeks ago I left Cape Town in 12 degrees wearing a jacket and beanie, and the plane was very cold and I wore them on the plane. I arrived to 35 degrees in Madrid. I did not plan carrying my jacket and hat across Spain in the heat wave, so I dumped them at the hotel. I did not know what my plans were except that I was flying out of Madrid. Yesterday I decided to spent my preflight night in Madrid, and booked the same hotel. I thought a jacket and beanie would be needed on the plane, and considered replacing those items here, if necessary. I enquired at reception if by chance they had found the clothes and still had them. Hotel Lauria is to be commended. I have those clothes!
Madrid is hot and frenetic. The streets are full of people - it is difficult to believe. My room is over the Via Grande, the door is open and at 23h00 the street is still busy.
. I don't care what anyone says it ain't a bowl of cherries. I will do research on getting up and down. If I can get a bus early and I finish at the monastery early enough I will walk down if the road is safe.
