Musings now I'm home

Terri B · Oct 29, 2016

Hi all,

This is not a rant, just some musings now I'm home.

I set out from SJPDP on 31 August this year with the intent to walk all the way to Santiago. The walk didn't turn out the way I imagined. I had two hiccups along the way which resulted in me not being able to do so. As a result of the heatwave I ended up with a number of blisters, some of which became infected and subsequently caused me to have to bus ahead in order to meet my deadline. Catching that first bus from Estella to Logrono was the hardest decision I had to make. I was devastated when I realised that I would not be able to walk the whole way. This decision ended up being easier after talking to Lina from the US. She pointed out it was my Camino and it could be anything I wanted it to be. While purists along the way were very judgemental that I had dared to take a bus.

After resting 2 days in Logrono it was clear that it would take the antibiotics longer to clear the infection in my left foot, so it was an easy decision this time to catch another bus forward to Burgos for 4 days.

Once I recovered and could actually fit my foot in my boot, I recommenced walking. I ran into more lovely people, including Terry from Belfast who was on his 4th Camino. All was good for the first week and I was enjoying the Mesetta especially watching the sunrise spread its golden glow over the fields and hay bales. In Poblacion de Campos the second hiccup occurred. I call it food poisoning, but really I don't know what it was that caused me to vomit for 36 hours. While I started walking the next day, because staying in Poblacion wasn't an option, it soon became clear that walking was not a good idea and resulted in a taxi ride to Carrion de Los Condes and the wonderful people at the Santa Clara Convent. To stay on track with my deadline it was necessary to bus to Leon to recover my strength. After a few days in Leon and a night in Astorga I started walking again and am happy to say I walked all the way to Santiago.

Before I left home people told me I would find my Camino family along the way and spend my days walking with them and going out to dinner with them of a night. This did not happen. The whole time I walked I was pretty much on my own, people overtook me and I in turn overtook people, along the way. I had lovely chats with them, as well as people I encountered at the different Albergues and bars along the way. I'm not complaining, it's just that other people stories led to unrealistic expectations.

Having said that on the whole I enjoyed the Camino and was thrilled when I arrived in Santiago on 5 October and even more thrilled when I got to experience the botafumeiro being swung above my head.

Thanks for listening.

Buen Camino

Terri

Purple Backpack · Oct 29, 2016

So sorry to hear of your Camino challenges but glad to hear you enjoyed the botafumeriro. It was special for me, too, and I wrote a short travel story about it that may bring back happy memories for you. Wasn't sure where to post it so started a thread, "Short Travel Story: The Botafumerio"

Kanga · Oct 29, 2016

@Terri B it sounds like you enjoyed your camino, even though it was not what you expected and you certainly had challenges. As always the camino comes up with surprises.

Not everyone finds, or wants to find, a "camino family" who stay together for the whole walk. I walk with a couple or small group of people for a few days, sometimes a week or two, but rarely all the way to Santiago. Some of the best conversations I've had are with people I only encountered once, and a couple of those have become good friends afterwards, even though our time together was short - through continued contact by email and social media.

"Go without expectations" is about the only plan that works!

dougfitz · Oct 29, 2016

Terri B said:
While purists along the way were very judgemental that I had dared to take a bus.

I hope you realize by now to treat these so-called purists with all the respect they deserve - none. It is fine to walk all the way if you can, but it doesn't make you any more or less a pilgrim, nor does the accommodation you use or whether or not you have your pack carried. Pilgrimage is more about your motivation than the means, expect perhaps for paying due regard to the Pilgrim Office requirements should you wish to receive the compostela.

C clearly · Oct 29, 2016

I think your experience was not unusual. Sounds like you enjoyed the adventure, except for the health problems. I agree that expectations about certain aspects can lead to disappointment. Here is a previous thread about camino families that suggests your experience was quite typical. About the "camino purists", I notice that their reactions were encountered in Estella, quite early in their Caminos. Perhaps they were "purists" but they were inexperienced.

Steven B · Oct 29, 2016

Hi Terri, I also started on the 31 Aug 16 from SJPDP. I do not believe we met though? I have only been back a few days but the start of the Camino seems like years ago now. I am sorry to hear of the problems you experienced. From my observations these problems are far more common than people realise and several people I had some contact with in that first week had to go home early, one lady I started also with infected blisters. You may have been there when the lady slipped and broke her ankle going down the track into Roncesvalles on day 2. Many others were also not prepared for the heat in that first week!
Everybody does walk their own Camino, I did hear a saying that the Camino provides what you need not necessarily what you want. Not sure about that but what I do know is that the Camino changes all the time with injuries, the weather, availability of accommodation and a myriad of other things and you adapt as best you can. I am thankful that I did managed to walk all the way although I was to carry on to Muxia but just could not go past Santiago with my injuries and had to bus it. I am very pleased you managed to complete the Camino with so many obstacles thrown at you as many did not. Nothing like experience to learn from I am sure next time will be much better!

This is just my own unexpected personal experience. Sandals saved my feet I would not have been able to complete the whole Camino had I not made the change. After 3 days I put my 'emergency' $120 Katmandu sandals on. It soon became apparent this was the solution to my ingrowing toenails and blisters but not enough cushioning for the rocks. Bought a pair of Teva hiking sandals at the next hiking shop. Gave my emergency sandals away but kept my waterproof hiking shoes for very cold or wet weather which we never got so ended up walking most of the way in sandals and socks.

Maybe see you on the next Camino

Barbara · Oct 29, 2016

Ah, the Camino Police......responsible for discouragement, sadness, and downright pain. Pay no attention, other than mentioning them in your prayers on arrival. What you pray for is up to you. Your pilgrimage is between you and your God. We won't have met, because I was on the Levante this year, but I came across a few people who had encountered the Camino Police this year. Sorry you had to meet them. You came a long way to do your Camino, I'm glad you found it worth doing despite your problems.

BonitaHolland · Oct 29, 2016

Terri B said:
Hi all,

This is not a rant, just some musings now I'm home.

I set out from SJPDP on 31 August this year with the intent to walk all the way to Santiago. The walk didn't turn out the way I imagined. I had two hiccups along the way which resulted in me not being able to do so. As a result of the heatwave I ended up with a number of blisters, some of which became infected and subsequently caused me to have to bus ahead in order to meet my deadline. Catching that first bus from Estella to Logrono was the hardest decision I had to make. I was devastated when I realised that I would not be able to walk the whole way. This decision ended up being easier after talking to Lina from the US. She pointed out it was my Camino and it could be anything I wanted it to be. While purists along the way were very judgemental that I had dared to take a bus.

After resting 2 days in Logrono it was clear that it would take the antibiotics longer to clear the infection in my left foot, so it was an easy decision this time to catch another bus forward to Burgos for 4 days.

Once I recovered and could actually fit my foot in my boot, I recommenced walking. I ran into more lovely people, including Terry from Belfast who was on his 4th Camino. All was good for the first week and I was enjoying the Mesetta especially watching the sunrise spread its golden glow over the fields and hay bales. In Poblacion de Campos the second hiccup occurred. I call it food poisoning, but really I don't know what it was that caused me to vomit for 36 hours. While I started walking the next day, because staying in Poblacion wasn't an option, it soon became clear that walking was not a good idea and resulted in a taxi ride to Carrion de Los Condes and the wonderful people at the Santa Clara Convent. To stay on track with my deadline it was necessary to bus to Leon to recover my strength. After a few days in Leon and a night in Astorga I started walking again and am happy to say I walked all the way to Santiago.

Before I left home people told me I would find my Camino family along the way and spend my days walking with them and going out to dinner with them of a night. This did not happen. The whole time I walked I was pretty much on my own, people overtook me and I in turn overtook people, along the way. I had lovely chats with them, as well as people I encountered at the different Albergues and bars along the way. I'm not complaining, it's just that other people stories led to unrealistic expectations.

Having said that on the whole I enjoyed the Camino and was thrilled when I arrived in Santiago on 5 October and even more thrilled when I got to experience the botafumeiro being swung above my head.

Thanks for listening.

Buen Camino

Terri

I enjoyed reading your very honest post. It's made me think and reflect on my decision to come home from Leon. I also intended to walk the whole thing, I'd taken s 3 month sabbatical so had no time limits however when my Camino became dominated by pain 4-5 weeks in, it was time to go home (I'd set off Sep 3rd) and prioritise my body rather than hang onto my goal. I met quite a few people who had to stop early on fur many different reasons and they felt very different to those who intended to do one or two weeks and then return another time. The difference in their emotions was very marked. Noticing this allowed me to view Leon as my Santiago for the time being. For you the early slow walking wasn't your priority but getting places was so I'm guessing you had a schedule to meet? I noticed people catching buses in order to stay with or keep up with their Camino group- ultimately it didn't work I think because the experiences differed. I do believe whatever decisions we make illuminates something important to each of us that is very personal and requires no public sharing. Good luck with any future trips. Best wishes.

tpmchugh · Oct 29, 2016

Terri B said:
Hi all,

This is not a rant, just some musings now I'm home.

I set out from SJPDP on 31 August this year with the intent to walk all the way to Santiago. The walk didn't turn out the way I imagined. I had two hiccups along the way which resulted in me not being able to do so. As a result of the heatwave I ended up with a number of blisters, some of which became infected and subsequently caused me to have to bus ahead in order to meet my deadline. Catching that first bus from Estella to Logrono was the hardest decision I had to make. I was devastated when I realised that I would not be able to walk the whole way. This decision ended up being easier after talking to Lina from the US. She pointed out it was my Camino and it could be anything I wanted it to be. While purists along the way were very judgemental that I had dared to take a bus.

After resting 2 days in Logrono it was clear that it would take the antibiotics longer to clear the infection in my left foot, so it was an easy decision this time to catch another bus forward to Burgos for 4 days.

Once I recovered and could actually fit my foot in my boot, I recommenced walking. I ran into more lovely people, including Terry from Belfast who was on his 4th Camino. All was good for the first week and I was enjoying the Mesetta especially watching the sunrise spread its golden glow over the fields and hay bales. In Poblacion de Campos the second hiccup occurred. I call it food poisoning, but really I don't know what it was that caused me to vomit for 36 hours. While I started walking the next day, because staying in Poblacion wasn't an option, it soon became clear that walking was not a good idea and resulted in a taxi ride to Carrion de Los Condes and the wonderful people at the Santa Clara Convent. To stay on track with my deadline it was necessary to bus to Leon to recover my strength. After a few days in Leon and a night in Astorga I started walking again and am happy to say I walked all the way to Santiago.

Before I left home people told me I would find my Camino family along the way and spend my days walking with them and going out to dinner with them of a night. This did not happen. The whole time I walked I was pretty much on my own, people overtook me and I in turn overtook people, along the way. I had lovely chats with them, as well as people I encountered at the different Albergues and bars along the way. I'm not complaining, it's just that other people stories led to unrealistic expectations.

Having said that on the whole I enjoyed the Camino and was thrilled when I arrived in Santiago on 5 October and even more thrilled when I got to experience the botafumeiro being swung above my head.

Thanks for listening.

Buen Camino

Terri

Hi Terri, glad to hear you made it. I arrived the day after you. So sorry we did not meet up again in Santiago as we had met a few times along the way. I would like to think I was part of your camino family, you were certainly part of mine even if we never shared an evening together. Just one little correction, it was my third camino, not my fourth but it might be a good excuse to go back again just to make your post correct . Not to worry about buses. Took one my self to Burgos and then into and out of Leon. Its not about the number of steps you take on the camino, its about what is in your heart that makes you a pilgrim. Anyhow, thanks for your company each time we met and for the encouragement you gave me when I was struggling with those interminable hills . What goes up must come down except in Spain, it just seems to keep going up and up

Mada · Oct 30, 2016

Hi Terri and everybody else.
This is my first day trying to communicate on the forum, though I signed up to be a member sometime ago.
Your post grabbed my attention - thank you for sharing your experience. April 2017 will DV be our first Camino and it has been on our "bucket-list" for a very long time. I realize today that the experience has already started and become a reality.
Thank you again.
Mada

MCFearnley · Oct 30, 2016

No self-respecting olden-day pilgrim would have refused an offer of a ride on a hay cart.

On my third day I was to walk from Vega de Valcarce up through O Cebreiro to Hospital da Condessa. It was raining, there was pea soup fog, the wind was lashing and the temperature around 6°C. A pilgrim at the albergue was waiting for a taxi to take her to Triacastella. As I had accidentally slept in that morning (I have terrific earplugs), I was starting a little late for the conditions. That taxi was my hay cart. I took it up to O Cebreiro and walked on to Fonfria that day. Had the conditions been different, I probably would have walked up, but as it was, Providence gave me a ride up.

Ekelund · Oct 30, 2016

Thank you for sharing your experiences, I enjoyed reading it. I'm sorry you had such hard times with blisters and upset stomach and on top of it - meeting the Camino Police. I have meet the Police a few times and my best advice is: smile and walk away, pay no attention to them.
All the best to you.

Terri B · Oct 30, 2016

tpmchugh said:
Hi Terri, glad to hear you made it. I arrived the day after you. So sorry we did not meet up again in Santiago as we had met a few times along the way. I would like to think I was part of your camino family, you were certainly part of mine even if we never shared an evening together. Just one little correction, it was my third camino, not my fourth but it might be a good excuse to go back again just to make your post correct . Not to worry about buses. Took one my self to Burgos and then into and out of Leon. Its not about the number of steps you take on the camino, its about what is in your heart that makes you a pilgrim. Anyhow, thanks for your company each time we met and for the encouragement you gave me when I was struggling with those interminable hills . What goes up must come down except in Spain, it just seems to keep going up and up

Hi Terry, sorry I got your Camino numbers wrong. Whether 3 or 4 it's still impressive.
I too consider you part of my Camino family, it's just not the family I was told I would form.
From our first encounter at Rabe, to our final encounter on my third last walking day, I have enjoyed immensely our chats and you sharing your experiences. This was particularly the case when the food poisoning occurred. When the taxi driver asked me where I was staying in Carrion all I could think of was your comment days earlier that if you're sick, nuns will look after you, so without hesitation I told him to take me to Santa Clara.
I was also really touched a few days later when you called me your Camino Angel for helping you find accommodation in Leon.
I kept an eye out for you as I was heading to the Santiago Railway Station on the day you were due to arrive. I knew you p,Anne's to arrive early, but I was disappointed when I didn't see you.
You never know our paths may cross again, but if not take care and enjoy those cruises.
Buen Camino Terri

Terri B · Oct 30, 2016

Steven B said:
Hi Terri, I also started on the 31 Aug 16 from SJPDP. I do not believe we met though? I have only been back a few days but the start of the Camino seems like years ago now. I am sorry to hear of the problems you experienced. From my observations these problems are far more common than people realise and several people I had some contact with in that first week had to go home early, one lady I started also with infected blisters. You may have been there when the lady slipped and broke her ankle going down the track into Roncesvalles on day 2. Many others were also not prepared for the heat in that first week!
Everybody does walk their own Camino, I did hear a saying that the Camino provides what you need not necessarily what you want. Not sure about that but what I do know is that the Camino changes all the time with injuries, the weather, availability of accommodation and a myriad of other things and you adapt as best you can. I am thankful that I did managed to walk all the way although I was to carry on to Muxia but just could not go past Santiago with my injuries and had to bus it. I am very pleased you managed to complete the Camino with so many obstacles thrown at you as many did not. Nothing like experience to learn from I am sure next time will be much better!

This is just my own unexpected personal experience. Sandals saved my feet I would not have been able to complete the whole Camino had I not made the change. After 3 days I put my 'emergency' $120 Katmandu sandals on. It soon became apparent this was the solution to my ingrowing toenails and blisters but not enough cushioning for the rocks. Bought a pair of Teva hiking sandals at the next hiking shop. Gave my emergency sandals away but kept my waterproof hiking shoes for very cold or wet weather which we never got so ended up walking most of the way in sandals and socks.

Maybe see you on the next Camino

Hi Steven, sounds like you had some hiccups too, and we'll done making it the whole way to Santiago. I too met a number of people along the way who ended up having to go home early, 2 lovely ladies from Slovenia and another lovely lady from Finland.
I wish I could have walked in my sandals, but I just could effectively keep any dressings on my feet during the heat wave and didn't want to risk another infection. I did hear about a girl from California who broke her leg on the Sept 1, from a young Canadian girl who had been walking with her and had to wait 3 hours for an ambulance to get to them. Not sure it's the same person, but with the gradient on some of those 3.6km down to Rocesvalles I'm not surprised.
People have asked if I'm going to go back and complete the sections I missed, so you never know!
Buen Camino Terri

Terri B · Oct 30, 2016

Tha

Purple Backpack said:
So sorry to hear of your Camino challenges but glad to hear you enjoyed the botafumeriro. It was special for me, too, and I wrote a short travel story about it that may bring back happy memories for you. Wasn't sure where to post it so started a thread, "Short Travel Story: The Botafumerio"

Thanks Purple Backpack, I'll check it out.

Terri B · Oct 30, 2016

C clearly said:
I think your experience was not unusual. Sounds like you enjoyed the adventure, except for the health problems. I agree that expectations about certain aspects can lead to disappointment. Here is a previous thread about camino families that suggests your experience was quite typical. About the "camino purists", I notice that their reactions were encountered in Estella, quite early in their Caminos. Perhaps they were "purists" but they were inexperienced.

Thanks C clearly. Unfortunately the purists were encountered pretty much along the whole Camino. While it upset me when I came to the realisation I wouldn't be able to walk the whole way at Estella, by the time I got to Logrono I didn't let it get to me.
Buen Camino Terri

Terri B · Oct 30, 2016

BonitaHolland said:
I enjoyed reading your very honest post. It's made me think and reflect on my decision to come home from Leon. I also intended to walk the whole thing, I'd taken s 3 month sabbatical so had no time limits however when my Camino became dominated by pain 4-5 weeks in, it was time to go home (I'd set off Sep 3rd) and prioritise my body rather than hang onto my goal. I met quite a few people who had to stop early on fur many different reasons and they felt very different to those who intended to do one or two weeks and then return another time. The difference in their emotions was very marked. Noticing this allowed me to view Leon as my Santiago for the time being. For you the early slow walking wasn't your priority but getting places was so I'm guessing you had a schedule to meet? I noticed people catching buses in order to stay with or keep up with their Camino group- ultimately it didn't work I think because the experiences differed. I do believe whatever decisions we make illuminates something important to each of us that is very personal and requires no public sharing. Good luck with any future trips. Best wishes.

Thanks Bonita, I hope you've recovered now you're home.
I had a deadline of meeting my sister in Madrid on 7 October to have 2 weeks holiday with her for my birthday. I also needed to get to Santiago because I'd posted my holiday clothes and other nonessential items to Ivar to store for me. So either by foot or bus I also had to make it to Santiago.
Good luck with any plans to return.
Buen Camino Terri

Terri B · Oct 30, 2016

Mada said:
Hi Terri and everybody else.
This is my first day trying to communicate on the forum, though I signed up to be a member sometime ago.
Your post grabbed my attention - thank you for sharing your experience. April 2017 will DV be our first Camino and it has been on our "bucket-list" for a very long time. I realize today that the experience has already started and become a reality.
Thank you again.
Mada

Thanks Mada, good luck with the preparations and enjoy.
Buen Camino Terri

Terri B · Oct 30, 2016

MCFearnley said:
No self-respecting olden-day pilgrim would have refused an offer of a ride on a hay cart.

On my third day I was to walk from Vega de Valcarce up through O Cebreiro to Hospital da Condessa. It was raining, there was pea soup fog, the wind was lashing and the temperature around 6°C. A pilgrim at the albergue was waiting for a taxi to take her to Triacastella. As I had accidentally slept in that morning (I have terrific earplugs), I was starting a little late for the conditions. That taxi was my hay cart. I took it up to O Cebreiro and walked on to Fonfria that day. Had the conditions been different, I probably would have walked up, but as it was, Providence gave me a ride up.

Thanks MCFearnly, having walked that in sunshine and clear skies I can only imagine what you went through and don't blame you one bit. I do envy you slightly that you got to experience O'Cebreiro in that weather. Every photo I have ever seen of the hamlet has it shrouded in fog or in the rain, so for me it was strange to have blue skies.
It was windy, of course, though.
Buen Camino Terri

Terri B · Oct 30, 2016

Ekelund said:
Thank you for sharing your experiences, I enjoyed reading it. I'm sorry you had such hard times with blisters and upset stomach and on top of it - meeting the Camino Police. I have meet the Police a few times and my best advice is: smile and walk away, pay no attention to them.
All the best to you.

Thanks Ekelund, it took a couple of days, but eventually I was able to, in the words of Frozen, "let it go"!!
Buen Camino Terri

anna klara klintegaard · Oct 30, 2016

rometimed · Oct 30, 2016

Terri B said:
Hi all,

This is not a rant, just some musings now I'm home.

I set out from SJPDP on 31 August this year with the intent to walk all the way to Santiago. The walk didn't turn out the way I imagined. I had two hiccups along the way which resulted in me not being able to do so. As a result of the heatwave I ended up with a number of blisters, some of which became infected and subsequently caused me to have to bus ahead in order to meet my deadline. Catching that first bus from Estella to Logrono was the hardest decision I had to make. I was devastated when I realised that I would not be able to walk the whole way. This decision ended up being easier after talking to Lina from the US. She pointed out it was my Camino and it could be anything I wanted it to be. While purists along the way were very judgemental that I had dared to take a bus.

After resting 2 days in Logrono it was clear that it would take the antibiotics longer to clear the infection in my left foot, so it was an easy decision this time to catch another bus forward to Burgos for 4 days.

Once I recovered and could actually fit my foot in my boot, I recommenced walking. I ran into more lovely people, including Terry from Belfast who was on his 4th Camino. All was good for the first week and I was enjoying the Mesetta especially watching the sunrise spread its golden glow over the fields and hay bales. In Poblacion de Campos the second hiccup occurred. I call it food poisoning, but really I don't know what it was that caused me to vomit for 36 hours. While I started walking the next day, because staying in Poblacion wasn't an option, it soon became clear that walking was not a good idea and resulted in a taxi ride to Carrion de Los Condes and the wonderful people at the Santa Clara Convent. To stay on track with my deadline it was necessary to bus to Leon to recover my strength. After a few days in Leon and a night in Astorga I started walking again and am happy to say I walked all the way to Santiago.

Before I left home people told me I would find my Camino family along the way and spend my days walking with them and going out to dinner with them of a night. This did not happen. The whole time I walked I was pretty much on my own, people overtook me and I in turn overtook people, along the way. I had lovely chats with them, as well as people I encountered at the different Albergues and bars along the way. I'm not complaining, it's just that other people stories led to unrealistic expectations.

Having said that on the whole I enjoyed the Camino and was thrilled when I arrived in Santiago on 5 October and even more thrilled when I got to experience the botafumeiro being swung above my head.

Thanks for listening.

Buen Camino

Terri

Even with the injuries count me as jealous.

xin loi · Oct 31, 2016

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