Hi All,
Here is a personal review of muncipal/parish auberges I slept in this July. Only stayed in 1 private and that was in SJPdP. If someone wants to know km. per day would be glad to give details separately.
FYI my strategy along the Camino was what I now call "walk and see" (where/when to stop). I brought Walking the Camino de Santiago by Pili Pala Press and had information sheets given to me in St. Jean when I received my Pilgrim's Passport. The schedule I had made prior to leaving was thrown out on day 2 as I was able to walk farther/faster than anticipated.
SJPdP: Friday July 2 (night prior to starting)
L'Esprit du Chemin: Warm, charming 1600's Basque auberge run by 2 Dutch. They were on vacation but was well received by 2 other Dutch hospitaleros. Communal dinner, lodging and breakfast for E20,- . Most expensive of whole trip but well worth the money. Special atmosphere and a wonderful way to start the Camino.
July 3 Day 1 Roncesvalles E6,- HUGE, 1 room with bunk beds (120). No cooking facilities. Internet. If want to eat at one of 2 restaurants need to reserve (2 sittings). Went to Pilgrim's mass instead. Overflow housed in separate portocabins but not needed the night I was there. No stores/shopping.
July 4 Day 2 Pamplona Municipal Auberge Jose y Maria E6,- (incl sheet+pillow case). Very modern, free washing machine, dryer E1,-. 2 floors with bunkbeds (cubicles with 3 sets of bunkbeds) but not so overwhelming as in Roncesvalles. Modern kitchen facility.
Loved Pamplona- visited city with group of Irish "bunkmats" enjoying tapas and cider. Next day closed for San Fermín.
July 5 Day 3 Estella Municipal Auberge E6,- (incl breakfast). Liked auberge due to cozy, sunny courtyard. Washing facilities good, kitchen too. Internet. 2 rooms with bunkbeds. Bit crowded but was pleased to get last bed as walked all day. Stores/shopping available.
July 6 Day 4 Viana Parroquial Auberge*** Donativo - I gave E10,- because want to make sure such auberges stay in business. (Communal dinner/wine, lodging+breakfast) My first experience at a Parish Auberge and if I had my choice would ONLY stay at these auberges. Unfortunately too few along the Camino. Lovely town and auberge in church in the Plaza. Prepare dinner and eat together. Wonderful and much more intimate than municipal auberges. Francisco, the Italian hospitalero was great. Small, 2 rooms with thin mattresses on floor. Pilgrim's mass at 8 p.m. VERY PERSONAL - priest talked to each Pelegrino/a individually and 1 by 1 blessed us by sprinkling water on our heads then placed hand on head. Even if you are not religious, was quite a moving experience. Stores/shopping available.
July 7 Day 5 Nájera Municipal Donativo - gave only E2,-. Not very pleased with this auberge. Adequate but dirty. Lights out not enforced (Germany-Spain football game) - kind of crazy and loud. Kitchen and washing facilities small and cramped. Internet. Large town, good if need supplies or sports equipment.
July 8 Day 6 Grañon Parish Hospital de Pelegrinos Donativo***Gave E10,- for same reason as stated under Viana.(Communal dinner/wine, lodging+breakfast). What a FANTASTIC PLACE! 2 floors with thin mats on floor, cozy and intimate living/dining area with fireplace. Washing facility in bell tower! Due to heat, slept in 1st floor. Also option to sleep in church if too warm. 3 Hospitaleros and Luis, a Franciscan Monk took wonderful care of us. Also relearned how to use a Perron! Vesper/singing/prayer with candles before lights out. Cute little town.
July 9 Day 7 Villafranca Montes de Oca E6,- WORST MUNICPAL EXPERIENCED - AVOID!!!
Got lost this morning and added 1h45 min to walk so didn't make it to San Juan de Ortega. What an awful place! Situated on a very busy throughfare. You take your life in your own hands by crossing the street as trucks zoom by. VERY STERILE, very limited cooking/washing facilities. Internet. Had a feeling that place open for money only although few stopped here (I now know why). No store but limited supplies at 1 bar.
July 10 Day 8 Burgos Municipal E4,- Extremely modern/clean with elevators! Light sensors. Many different dormitories with separate sleeping areas. Internet. Washing and kitchen area. Surprised in the a.m. that door only opened at 6. Behind Cathedral so great location but...it was Saturday night and there were 3 weddings...people out in the streets partying ALL NIGHT/MORNING so slept poorly. Otherwise LOVED Burgos but TAKE THE RIO ROUTE INTO BURGOS!!! Those that didn't had a different opinion of Burgos.
July 11 Day 9 Castrojeriz Donativo San Esteban (incl breakfast) E2,50 as I had run out of money. One large room with bunkbeds and separate mattresses on the floor. Very simple but adequate. I am not a football fan but that evening I enjoyed watching Spain-Holland at the one and only open cafe with fellow pelegrinos/as and locals. Was a Sunday and nothing else was open. Ran out of supplies...
July 12 Day 10 Carrión de los Condes Iglesia de Santa Maria auberge run by nuns E4,-. Lovely, fairly large town with riverside and plazas. Auberge fine but was also suprised here that doors didn't open up in the a.m. until 6. Kitchen and washing facilities.
July 13 Day 11 Sahagún E4,- Cluny municipal. Large pleasant building. Internet. Washing and cooking basic but o.k. Lots of stores/shopping if needed.
July 14 Day 12 León Municipal E4,- 2nd Worst on my list! 8 to a room. Cold water showers. Must say that my opinion is also clowded by HORRIBLE entry into León. That in itself turned me off to Leon. Unlike Burgos, no alternative route. Municipal about 20 min walk from Cathedral, looked from the outside like a prison...adequate inside. Actually didn't go to the Monasterio de las Benedictinas as someone from the forum gave it the axe...later heard that it was nice. So you see opinions vary.
July 15 Day 13 Hospital de Orbigo Parish Karl Leisner but not donativo E5,- Quaint, small but lovely courtyard and backyard where you can sit out and rest/hang clothes. Little kitchen but cozy. Crazy Spanish hospitalero that the time.
Didn't stay in Astorga but what a lovely town/city!!!
July 16 Day 14 Foncebadón Parroquial Donativo Domus Dei (Communal dinner+breakfast). Left E6. Very friendly Spanish couple were Hospitaleros. Food was not fresh auberges - lots of canned goods due to mountain location I guess but warm and communal. Very basic, limited facilities and as no more beds available when arrived I slept in "chapel" on mat on floor. Luckily there were blankets as it became quite cold in the night up that high! Even given the above would stay here again because of friendly atmosphere and in the a.m. arrived at the Cruz de Ferro when the sun came up.
July 17 Day 15 Cacabelos MunicipaE5,- Cute town (Auberge on outskirts on the way out - thought that I would never reach it!). Internet free. Interesting construction: 2 person "rooms" around inside church. No kitchen, washing facilities outside. Slept alone and best night's sleep on entire Camino.
July 18 Day 16 O Cebreiro E0,- The circus began once entered Galicia. Was a Sunday and O Cebreiro packed. Muncipal full as of 2 p.m. and people slept outside whereever possible.
I slept with 8 others in entrance way Church on cardboard box and mat...Muncipal was charging E5,- to use shower facilities which I refused.
Red Cross available for blister care. Given no shower facility took advantage of this service to clean/care for feet.
July 19 Day 17 Sarria E0,- Long story but short version is that I was snuck into Muncipal by a group of Spanish and slept on their mat on floor...hot and crowded but it was that or sleep in a gym which I heard opened up later on. Could wash clothes and took a shower. Very small kitchen with cooking facilities. Internet free on a bizarre keyboard.
Red Cross also available here.
July 20 Day 18 Os Chacotes (1 km before Pallas de Rei) E5,- Municipal was full as were ALL auberges - municipal or private - within a 20 km radius. Got talking to a Spanish woman from Galicia and she managed to get us a mattress on the floor of a building across from the Municipal (her name was Maria...). Others not so fortunate slept outside, on the streets of Pallas de Rei,etc.
This day was probably the most busy/crowded of all the Camino. Many were walking with little backpacks or none at all. I also saw numerous taxis/buses with "pelegrinos". Red Cross personnel told me that they saw people being dropped off at 10 a.m. in taxi's to reserve a room and get a stamp!
Red Cross also here.
July 21 Day 19 Pedrouzo/Arca E2,- slept in a run-down gym on floor. I had no mat but a Frenchman who had one of the limited supply of mattresses gave me his mat. Emergency situation, probably no need to use this facility in the future. WORST NIGHT OF ALL, couldn't sleep on hard floor so got up in the middle of the night and walked to Santiago. Actually pretty amazing arriving alone, in peace, just when the sun was coming up. Downside was that I kept falling asleep during the Pilgrim's Mass!
July 22 Day 20 Santiago Seminario Menor E12,- Huge place with separate dormitorios but luckily separate beds with lockers (good for backpack when visiting Santiago). Used washing machine and dryer for the first time here. Decided to finally get everything really clean. Kitchen facility and "store" in the basement.
Soooooo glad walked on to Finisterre - what a wonderful (and peaceful) way to end the Camino, especially given the craziness in Galicia in the days before July 25th.
July 23 Day 21 Vilaserio Village bar with auberge will discourge you "oh, it's awful!" but stayed at abandoned old school house. No hospitalero or place to leave money. Slept on thin mats but hot shower! E0,- When arrived a young Brazilian woman was there and later a group of 8 German bikers came in otherwise had the place to ourselves. Splurged and had 2 glasses of local wine and a racion of queso at the local (and only) bar.
July 24 Day 22 Corcurbión Donativo San Roque (Communal dinner/wine+breakfast). Can't remember how much I left. It was a LONG uphill walk to get to the auberge-thought would never find it as it is actually out of town. Spanish hospitalero Simon said that few stop here as most have their mind set on reaching Finisterre. Enjoyed opportunity to make meal together for last time on the Camino. Washing outside, small room with bunkbeds. Only about 15 of us there that night.
July 25 Day 23 Finisterre Provisional Municipal Auberge in Port E5,- (and for those interested they give out own "compostela"(for those walking from Santiago-Finisterre). Bunkbeds, no kitchen facilities, showers outside in porto cabins but bathroom/toilets inside. Sheets/pillow case included.
Keep in mind can only stay one night but there are many private auberges in Finisterre. Took a walk up to the light house (and 0,00 km marker!!!) when I arrived and again later that evening to see the sunset and moon rise.
If I were to walk the Francés again I would most definately stay in all of the above EXCEPT for municipal in León and Villefranca Montes de Oca.
Review is based on my personal experience. Keep in mind that it was a Holy Year and in July so it was VERY BUSY from Sarria onwards.
Cheers,
LT
Here is a personal review of muncipal/parish auberges I slept in this July. Only stayed in 1 private and that was in SJPdP. If someone wants to know km. per day would be glad to give details separately.
FYI my strategy along the Camino was what I now call "walk and see" (where/when to stop). I brought Walking the Camino de Santiago by Pili Pala Press and had information sheets given to me in St. Jean when I received my Pilgrim's Passport. The schedule I had made prior to leaving was thrown out on day 2 as I was able to walk farther/faster than anticipated.
SJPdP: Friday July 2 (night prior to starting)
L'Esprit du Chemin: Warm, charming 1600's Basque auberge run by 2 Dutch. They were on vacation but was well received by 2 other Dutch hospitaleros. Communal dinner, lodging and breakfast for E20,- . Most expensive of whole trip but well worth the money. Special atmosphere and a wonderful way to start the Camino.
July 3 Day 1 Roncesvalles E6,- HUGE, 1 room with bunk beds (120). No cooking facilities. Internet. If want to eat at one of 2 restaurants need to reserve (2 sittings). Went to Pilgrim's mass instead. Overflow housed in separate portocabins but not needed the night I was there. No stores/shopping.
July 4 Day 2 Pamplona Municipal Auberge Jose y Maria E6,- (incl sheet+pillow case). Very modern, free washing machine, dryer E1,-. 2 floors with bunkbeds (cubicles with 3 sets of bunkbeds) but not so overwhelming as in Roncesvalles. Modern kitchen facility.
Loved Pamplona- visited city with group of Irish "bunkmats" enjoying tapas and cider. Next day closed for San Fermín.
July 5 Day 3 Estella Municipal Auberge E6,- (incl breakfast). Liked auberge due to cozy, sunny courtyard. Washing facilities good, kitchen too. Internet. 2 rooms with bunkbeds. Bit crowded but was pleased to get last bed as walked all day. Stores/shopping available.
July 6 Day 4 Viana Parroquial Auberge*** Donativo - I gave E10,- because want to make sure such auberges stay in business. (Communal dinner/wine, lodging+breakfast) My first experience at a Parish Auberge and if I had my choice would ONLY stay at these auberges. Unfortunately too few along the Camino. Lovely town and auberge in church in the Plaza. Prepare dinner and eat together. Wonderful and much more intimate than municipal auberges. Francisco, the Italian hospitalero was great. Small, 2 rooms with thin mattresses on floor. Pilgrim's mass at 8 p.m. VERY PERSONAL - priest talked to each Pelegrino/a individually and 1 by 1 blessed us by sprinkling water on our heads then placed hand on head. Even if you are not religious, was quite a moving experience. Stores/shopping available.
July 7 Day 5 Nájera Municipal Donativo - gave only E2,-. Not very pleased with this auberge. Adequate but dirty. Lights out not enforced (Germany-Spain football game) - kind of crazy and loud. Kitchen and washing facilities small and cramped. Internet. Large town, good if need supplies or sports equipment.
July 8 Day 6 Grañon Parish Hospital de Pelegrinos Donativo***Gave E10,- for same reason as stated under Viana.(Communal dinner/wine, lodging+breakfast). What a FANTASTIC PLACE! 2 floors with thin mats on floor, cozy and intimate living/dining area with fireplace. Washing facility in bell tower! Due to heat, slept in 1st floor. Also option to sleep in church if too warm. 3 Hospitaleros and Luis, a Franciscan Monk took wonderful care of us. Also relearned how to use a Perron! Vesper/singing/prayer with candles before lights out. Cute little town.
July 9 Day 7 Villafranca Montes de Oca E6,- WORST MUNICPAL EXPERIENCED - AVOID!!!
Got lost this morning and added 1h45 min to walk so didn't make it to San Juan de Ortega. What an awful place! Situated on a very busy throughfare. You take your life in your own hands by crossing the street as trucks zoom by. VERY STERILE, very limited cooking/washing facilities. Internet. Had a feeling that place open for money only although few stopped here (I now know why). No store but limited supplies at 1 bar.
July 10 Day 8 Burgos Municipal E4,- Extremely modern/clean with elevators! Light sensors. Many different dormitories with separate sleeping areas. Internet. Washing and kitchen area. Surprised in the a.m. that door only opened at 6. Behind Cathedral so great location but...it was Saturday night and there were 3 weddings...people out in the streets partying ALL NIGHT/MORNING so slept poorly. Otherwise LOVED Burgos but TAKE THE RIO ROUTE INTO BURGOS!!! Those that didn't had a different opinion of Burgos.
July 11 Day 9 Castrojeriz Donativo San Esteban (incl breakfast) E2,50 as I had run out of money. One large room with bunkbeds and separate mattresses on the floor. Very simple but adequate. I am not a football fan but that evening I enjoyed watching Spain-Holland at the one and only open cafe with fellow pelegrinos/as and locals. Was a Sunday and nothing else was open. Ran out of supplies...
July 12 Day 10 Carrión de los Condes Iglesia de Santa Maria auberge run by nuns E4,-. Lovely, fairly large town with riverside and plazas. Auberge fine but was also suprised here that doors didn't open up in the a.m. until 6. Kitchen and washing facilities.
July 13 Day 11 Sahagún E4,- Cluny municipal. Large pleasant building. Internet. Washing and cooking basic but o.k. Lots of stores/shopping if needed.
July 14 Day 12 León Municipal E4,- 2nd Worst on my list! 8 to a room. Cold water showers. Must say that my opinion is also clowded by HORRIBLE entry into León. That in itself turned me off to Leon. Unlike Burgos, no alternative route. Municipal about 20 min walk from Cathedral, looked from the outside like a prison...adequate inside. Actually didn't go to the Monasterio de las Benedictinas as someone from the forum gave it the axe...later heard that it was nice. So you see opinions vary.
July 15 Day 13 Hospital de Orbigo Parish Karl Leisner but not donativo E5,- Quaint, small but lovely courtyard and backyard where you can sit out and rest/hang clothes. Little kitchen but cozy. Crazy Spanish hospitalero that the time.
Didn't stay in Astorga but what a lovely town/city!!!
July 16 Day 14 Foncebadón Parroquial Donativo Domus Dei (Communal dinner+breakfast). Left E6. Very friendly Spanish couple were Hospitaleros. Food was not fresh auberges - lots of canned goods due to mountain location I guess but warm and communal. Very basic, limited facilities and as no more beds available when arrived I slept in "chapel" on mat on floor. Luckily there were blankets as it became quite cold in the night up that high! Even given the above would stay here again because of friendly atmosphere and in the a.m. arrived at the Cruz de Ferro when the sun came up.
July 17 Day 15 Cacabelos MunicipaE5,- Cute town (Auberge on outskirts on the way out - thought that I would never reach it!). Internet free. Interesting construction: 2 person "rooms" around inside church. No kitchen, washing facilities outside. Slept alone and best night's sleep on entire Camino.
July 18 Day 16 O Cebreiro E0,- The circus began once entered Galicia. Was a Sunday and O Cebreiro packed. Muncipal full as of 2 p.m. and people slept outside whereever possible.
I slept with 8 others in entrance way Church on cardboard box and mat...Muncipal was charging E5,- to use shower facilities which I refused.
Red Cross available for blister care. Given no shower facility took advantage of this service to clean/care for feet.
July 19 Day 17 Sarria E0,- Long story but short version is that I was snuck into Muncipal by a group of Spanish and slept on their mat on floor...hot and crowded but it was that or sleep in a gym which I heard opened up later on. Could wash clothes and took a shower. Very small kitchen with cooking facilities. Internet free on a bizarre keyboard.
Red Cross also available here.
July 20 Day 18 Os Chacotes (1 km before Pallas de Rei) E5,- Municipal was full as were ALL auberges - municipal or private - within a 20 km radius. Got talking to a Spanish woman from Galicia and she managed to get us a mattress on the floor of a building across from the Municipal (her name was Maria...). Others not so fortunate slept outside, on the streets of Pallas de Rei,etc.
This day was probably the most busy/crowded of all the Camino. Many were walking with little backpacks or none at all. I also saw numerous taxis/buses with "pelegrinos". Red Cross personnel told me that they saw people being dropped off at 10 a.m. in taxi's to reserve a room and get a stamp!
Red Cross also here.
July 21 Day 19 Pedrouzo/Arca E2,- slept in a run-down gym on floor. I had no mat but a Frenchman who had one of the limited supply of mattresses gave me his mat. Emergency situation, probably no need to use this facility in the future. WORST NIGHT OF ALL, couldn't sleep on hard floor so got up in the middle of the night and walked to Santiago. Actually pretty amazing arriving alone, in peace, just when the sun was coming up. Downside was that I kept falling asleep during the Pilgrim's Mass!
July 22 Day 20 Santiago Seminario Menor E12,- Huge place with separate dormitorios but luckily separate beds with lockers (good for backpack when visiting Santiago). Used washing machine and dryer for the first time here. Decided to finally get everything really clean. Kitchen facility and "store" in the basement.
Soooooo glad walked on to Finisterre - what a wonderful (and peaceful) way to end the Camino, especially given the craziness in Galicia in the days before July 25th.
July 23 Day 21 Vilaserio Village bar with auberge will discourge you "oh, it's awful!" but stayed at abandoned old school house. No hospitalero or place to leave money. Slept on thin mats but hot shower! E0,- When arrived a young Brazilian woman was there and later a group of 8 German bikers came in otherwise had the place to ourselves. Splurged and had 2 glasses of local wine and a racion of queso at the local (and only) bar.
July 24 Day 22 Corcurbión Donativo San Roque (Communal dinner/wine+breakfast). Can't remember how much I left. It was a LONG uphill walk to get to the auberge-thought would never find it as it is actually out of town. Spanish hospitalero Simon said that few stop here as most have their mind set on reaching Finisterre. Enjoyed opportunity to make meal together for last time on the Camino. Washing outside, small room with bunkbeds. Only about 15 of us there that night.
July 25 Day 23 Finisterre Provisional Municipal Auberge in Port E5,- (and for those interested they give out own "compostela"(for those walking from Santiago-Finisterre). Bunkbeds, no kitchen facilities, showers outside in porto cabins but bathroom/toilets inside. Sheets/pillow case included.
Keep in mind can only stay one night but there are many private auberges in Finisterre. Took a walk up to the light house (and 0,00 km marker!!!) when I arrived and again later that evening to see the sunset and moon rise.
If I were to walk the Francés again I would most definately stay in all of the above EXCEPT for municipal in León and Villefranca Montes de Oca.
Review is based on my personal experience. Keep in mind that it was a Holy Year and in July so it was VERY BUSY from Sarria onwards.
Cheers,
LT