Monastery of Leyre

[Priscillian]

It always surprises me that this alternative to the Camino in the Pyrenees is so little used. The trail down to Jaca from Somport contains some of Spain´s most beautiful scenery, and it is well waymarked west either along the north or south of the Aragon towards Sanguesa at the end of the Yesa reservoir (which is rarely out of sight). I saw very few pilgrims even in July compared to the St.JPdeP route. Both Caminos join up at Puente la Reina (de Navarra) and the Aragones passes right by the Templar church of Eunate.

I revisited this area on my recent trip and have written quite a bit about the wonderful Monastery of Leyre which is a 12 klms detour if you take the south route, or right above the Camino if you choose to continue on the north side of the Aragon River.
You will even find a Rip van Winkle story!
http://www.pilgrimagetoheresy.blogspot.com
Tracy

 

[Anniesantiago]

What a lovely story! Thank you! I did not know about this place. I began my walk in Jaca! I plan on going back and beginning in Somport next year.

 

[oursonpolaire]

Those who walk on the north side of the Embalse de Yesa should not count on much in the way of waymarking. In September 2009, it consisted very much of walking along the side of the carretera-- I found one splendid path by the side of the lake which cut off a few kilometres by means of a discussion with a shepherd who, leaning on his crozier with the sheep massed around us, used a Google Earth app on his mobile telephone, and drew me a map to find it the detour. With the exception of one gasolinera, there are no water sources until you are about 80% of the way to Leyre, where there are several campgrounds. I do remark on the hot springs at Tiermas (km 366 if I recall correctly) where I joined a few dozen Spaniards in a cheerful mud bath and was well exfoliated.

At the end of it all, I was too tired to walk up the extra few km from Yesa to the monastery, and stayed at a hostal in the pueblo. There were 2 French cyclists there and I passed a German pilgrim, but that was all between Berdun and Yesa.

That having been said, Priscillian is quite correct in that the scenery is spectacular. I also recommend the castle and museum at Javier, the birthplace of Saint Francis Xavier. People in Yesa and Javier were friendly and helpful.

 

[Priscillian]

Actually, it is quite true that the north route is not well waymarked and that is because you really have little choice but to follow the road along the reservoir towards Yesa and later Sanguesa. This was once where the Aragon river bounced its way down the gorge but is now the Yesa Embalse, so that any "original" waypaths are now under water. The south route which goes up to Ruesta is a little longer but both are equally beautiful. Either way take lots of water as there are very few cafes or bars, and virtually none on the north route.

 

[peregrina2000]

I don't know if I will ever walk to the monastery, but the rewards will be many for those that do. I have visited it twice (slept there once) and it is a real treat. The first time I stayed there, in the early 1990s, it wasn't quite as upscale and touristy as it now is. We had very basic accommodations in the monastery and a community meal on long plank tables. But the real treats were the incredible view from up top down to the embalse (whose water was a greenish turquoise); the visit to the visigothic church underneath the romanesque one; and most of all, the chance to hear the monks singing evening prayers inside the romanesque church with its uneven barrel vault arches, and lopsided naves. The church was lit by candles and the whole thing was amazing.

When I was there in the late 2000s, there were mobs of tourists, a restaurant with linen tablecloths, and no candles. Ah, progress!